Year: 2005

  • Billy's Lighthouse

    This small-town lakeside joint is quickly becoming a small-town lakeside dining destination. Billy’s dramatically upgraded its almost twenty-year-old self with the arrival of chef Casey Leick, formerly of the 510 Restaurant. While the classic prime rib dinner and Lighthouse burger remain on the menu, they’re now joined by sauteed calf’s liver with onions and smoked bacon, linguini with wild mushrooms and goat cheese, and steamed Prince Edward Island mussels in an apple cider broth dotted with tangy Gorgonzola. The “Down Under” burger bar/game room in the basement offers a good time and good eats for Vikings fans, but its denizens are in danger of losing their parking spots–the amazing hazelnut-crusted rack of lamb upstairs is drawing a whole new crowd. 1310 Wayzata Blvd. W., Long Lake; 952-473-2455 CLOSED

  • Forests in Turmoil

    In regard to the article in your October edition “Newspapers in Turmoil,” if daily newspapers are in trouble, first and foremost they should be in trouble for destroying old-growth Canadian forests. Most newsprint used in the U.S. comes from Canada, and ninety percent of all logging in Canada is done with clear-cutting. Newsprint, which is the paper used to make newspapers, has an average recycled content that runs between zero and thirty percent. So many daily newspapers in America (more than sixty million of them) are seventy percent virgin forest. Nothing eats more forests than daily newspapers, they may be the most destructive and wasteful product in America. Newsprint is the principal wood product that comes out of Ontario, and the boreal forest in Northern Ontario is being destroyed. Our local papers get much of their newsprint from Northern Ontario, and continue to write editorials about saving America forests, while they are playing a large part in the destruction of the last intact old-growth forest in North America … odd.

    Frank Erickson

  • The Long Decline

    I read with amusement the hand-wringing implicit in the article “Newspapers in Turmoil” by Brian Lambert [October]. What is noteworthy is that this is newsworthy at all. I have been avoiding the likes of the Star Tribune and the Pioneer Press since 1985, when I first moved to Minneapolis. Even by the standards of American journalism—notoriously self-centered—such newspapers have not been serving their readers well for these twenty years. Sure, there was an occasional investigative article in the Pioneer Press that was informative, but by and large these two papers wrote at a sixth-grade level of English and required about the same level of complexity of thought. That their standards have declined even further because of the onslaught of weblogs and pressure from the right-wing pressure groups should come as no surprise. There was not much of a core to sustain.
    Bharat Pant
    Minneapolis

  • Pad and Pallette

    Congratulations on your article about University Grove [Sweet Spot, October]. Your large photo of the building with colorful panels is a two-story library addition to a fifties Close house now owned by professors Helen Foster and Fred Cooper. The firm’s “Wolfe House” next door (now owned by Dudley Riggs and his wife) featured panels with wood battens. For the library addition, the current “Close Associates” chose to cover the panel joints with aluminum cover strips. The owners arranged the strips according to LeCorbusier’s “Modulor.” The colors are the owners’ choices from a Josef Albers palette. This lively newcomer respects the past while celebrating the spirit of the Grove your article chronicles.
    Gar Hargens
    President, Close Associates Inc., Minneapolis

  • Minnesota Mosques

    In your October cover story, “We Live Here,” you wrote about the new mosque being built in Rochester. Your writer said, “When complete, it will be the first new mosque ever constructed in Minnesota.” I would like to let you know that this is not true. There has been a new mosque built in Richfield, Minnesota, and the name of that mosque is Masjid ul Rahman. It was built a few years back, I think in 2003.
    Asbah Hadi
    Minneapolis

  • What’s in a Name?

    I greatly appreciated the thoughtfully written article on the Outdoor Scripture Sign Crusade [“The Ruin,” by Joe Hart, September]. Kudos to Hart for gracefully rendering the sincerity of his subject’s Christian faith. Mr. Hart’s personal theological commitments, however, seem marred by some muddled thinking. While he admits to having “a kind of rueful respect for the great mysteries of life and death,” he says that he has “come to believe it necessary not to name them. Because as soon as they are named, they cease to be mysteries and become human interpretations, steeped in all our folly and hubris.” Now human interpretations are, as Hart rightly notes, inevitably susceptible to human folly and hubris. But does attempting to use language to describe any mystery necessarily do violence to that mystery? This seems to me an untenable assertion. Does it hold true that that when we assign names to “things” that are externally transcendent to us, that they cease to be mysterious? Think of Love.

    Dan Olson
    Minneapolis

  • Happy Halloween

    Here’s Barb Pratt of Minneapolis taking a little rest on her van trip with Alan Kahn (also of Minneapolis) in upstate New York—–yum!! What a pie it made!!

    Barb Pratt

  • Fine Bright Red

    The Orient, said Metternich, begins at the Ring. It is hardly surprising an Austrian statesman of the early nineteenth century should think the Near East was as close as the suburbs of Vienna. The Ottoman Turks besieged the Austrian capital at least twice and the favor was returned each time an Austrian army, arrayed boldly by batteries, besieged Belgrade.

    Not that the symbiosis of the Ottoman and Hapsburg empires was all horror and confrontation. Even their hostilities had some cheerful consequences. After the second Turkish siege of Vienna in 1683 (the year before Bach was born), the retreating armies left behind sacks of black beans the size and shape of rabbit droppings, though a good deal scrunchier. A Viennese entrepreneur ground them into a powder and opened Europe’s first coffeehouse. Can you imagine Vienna without Kaffee und Kuchen? Would you not think J.S. Bach just a polyphiloprogenitive sobersides (like Organ Morgan of Llareggub–it’s organ, organ all the time with him) if there were not those bubbly bits in his Coffee Cantata?

    In any case, distinctions between west and east are always arbitrary–they vary as you go round the globe, whereas those between north and south are absolute. And this part of MittelEuropa, whether ruled by the Hapsburgs or the Turks, is a magnificent macedoine of ethnic eccentricity.

    Read all about it in the trilogy of travel books by Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor: A Time of Gifts, Between Woods and Water, and a third volume eagerly awaited by admirers. This is the record of a young man who set out, in 1933, to walk from Canterbury to Constantinople. He meets all sorts of men, from barons and rabbis to gypsies and the country gentry of the Pannonian Plain, who are said to enjoy the best partridge shooting in the world. The more spirit one has oneself, the more one finds other people original. The author is the same P. Leigh Fermor who kidnapped a German general on Crete during the Second World War and solemnly exchanged with him lines from the Odes of Horace as they passed by the snow-capped summit of Mount Ida on their way to a British submarine and safety. In Austria and points east, the Leigh Fermor liveliness matches that of the people whose land he was passing through.

    For the Romans, it was certainly the north-south distinction that mattered. The beautiful Blue Danube was their frontier facing north toward Central Europe and its ferocious Iron Age warrior aristocracies. Romans, naturally, drank wine; the folk beyond the Roman border liked beer or mead (though they would do as Romans whenever they could get wine). Emperors and armies campaigned along the Danube to keep the empire safe. Marcus Aurelius, after a hard day’s soldiering, would come back to the stronghold of Carnuntum, withdraw into himself, and stoically compose his Meditations. (The opening scenes of Gladiator are as good an evocation as I know of the hard business of campaigning in these dank northern forests.)

    Carnuntum today is the center of a thriving wine region, making both red and white wine from French varieties as well as from grapes that have grown in the long hot summers here since the Middle Ages. Production is protected by particularly strict purity laws, introduced twenty years ago, after it was discovered that some Austrian wines contained a chemical called diethylene glycol, added to increase body and sweetness (not to be confused with ethylene glycol, a substance that belongs in the radiator of your motorcar). I cannot imagine why anyone ever thought such adulteration desirable, given the excellence of what they make here naturally.

    Try, for instance, a 2003 red from Weingut Glatzer made from the Blaufrankisch grape, available locally for about twelve dollars. Blaufrankisch is the grape Germans call the Limberger; its name comes from the blue of the berries and frankisch, a term used since the Middle Ages to indicate superior quality. The wine is lively, clear and bright with an initial bite like mild black coffee and a fine fruity flavor, concealing hints of that pleasing wateriness that comes from really ripe blackberries. One can imagine it in the company of anything you might eat with a rather alcoholic Pinot Noir–even a Thanksgiving turkey. Though perhaps it might feel more at home with a Pannonian partridge. Prost.

  • The "It" Fruit

    During my childhood, the whirl of the eating season that begins this month was usually ushered in with that most agreeable social function, the potluck supper. Friends gathering, sharing food of their own making–it is a humble community feast where everyone gives and takes and huddles against the encroaching cold. In the car, I always held the bowl containing my family’s offering–I was the reliable and steady one, at least when it came to this task. Looking down at my mother’s green salad laced with mandarin oranges, almonds, and pomegranate seeds in my lap, the little red orbs seemed nearly to glow beneath the Saran Wrap. The pop and flavor of those juicy seeds were one of the things I associated with holiday functions, a treat of the season.

    On the potluck table, my mother’s salad always stood out among the Tater Tot hot dishes and green bean bakes. People were interested, but hesitant. I remember looking at those who pushed the oddly tangy seeds to the sides of their plate and assuming they were saving the best for last. When I witnessed the jewels tumbling into the garbage along with the remainder of some unfortunately selected goulash, I would grow almost despondent. How could you throw away a ruby?

    In recent decades, few people have understood the allure of this ancient food. The leathery, round, amber-colored fruits quietly bided their time in the shadows until, once again, they could rise to the forefront of food culture. And that time is now: The pomegranate is hot, hot, hot. Celebrities inspire the rest of us to sip pomegranate juice cocktails, and star chefs are using the fruit in daring and innovative ways: pomegranate salsa! pomegranate caramel sauce! Meanwhile, physicians can’t seem to stop talking about the amazing health benefits that accrue to a life that involves pomegranates. The buzz shows no sign of abating.

    It’s quite fitting to call the current fascination with pomegranates a rebirth. For centuries, this fruit has been a symbol of fertility and regeneration: Opening a pomegranate reveals a lush bounty of blood-red seeds nestled in soft, white flesh. Along with olives, grapes, figs, and dates, pomegranates were among the first domesticated crops; the tree on which they grow is believed to have originated in ancient Persia. As it spread throughout the world, the beautiful fruit rose to a place of importance in many cultures. Buddhists see it as one of the three sacred fruits, along with the citron and the peach. The Chinese gave sugared pomegranate seeds as wedding presents while decorating the bridal chamber with the fruit to encourage fertility.

    The pomegranate also figures prominently in the story of Persephone. When the smitten Hades, god of the underworld, kidnapped Persephone, her grieving mother Demeter, the goddess of nature, plunged the world into a famine. Zeus agreed to help free her, as long as she hadn’t eaten anything from the underworld. Alas, the depressed Persephone had allowed herself six pomegranate seeds to quench her thirst. Thus, she would be allowed to return to earth for only six months of each year, spending the other six in the underworld. Demeter celebrated each return with spring and summer and mourned her daughter’s eventual departure with fall and winter. It was this connection to death and rebirth that led Christians to later make the pomegranate a symbol of the Resurrection.

    Its current rebirth as a medicinal holy grail is being fueled, oddly enough, by coin collectors. Roll International Corporation (the company behind the Franklin Mint, Fiji water, and Teleflora) is driving the country’s desire for pomegranates through POM Wonderful, the breakout fruit and juice company that has quickly become a supermarket staple. The pomegranate’s dark garnet juice is thicker and bolder in flavor than that of the cranberry, and offers a dusky sweetness with a tart finish. While the purists will slug the nectar directly from its distinctive, bulbous bottle, the stylish set chooses to dilute it, say, with vodka in a Pomtini or rum in a Pomojito. Plugging the powerful antioxidant properties of pomegranate juice, POM Wonderful has literally bet the farm on the future of pomegranates, planting thousands of trees in California’s San Joaquin Valley over the past five years. By investing more of its millions in cardiovascular, cancer, and other types of medical research than it does in marketing, the company seems to be planning for the long haul.

    As trendy as the pomegranate is, it’s still a relative oddball to the home cook. Extracting the sparkling arils (the correct term for the seed, which is actually encased in a pouch of liquid) from the fleshy white pith can be a bit laborious. The best method is to cut off the crown, score the flesh into four sections and break the fruit apart over a bowl of water. Under water, you can gently roll the arils out from the cottony pith, which will float as the arils sink. Strain the water and claim your treasure. Eating the capsules whole will give you a burst of juice and small crunchy seed to chew. There are those who would spit the seed out, thus missing out on both fiber and fun, but they dare not dribble as the juice will stain.

    In season from October through January, the fall fruit’s robust flavors are a perfect match for the heartier foods of the season. The concentrated paste known as pomegranate molasses (available in some specialty stores) makes a tangy addition to sauces for roasted meats, especially duck, as in one variation on the traditional Persian stew known as khoresh. Adding the juice to a fig-and-olive tapenade makes an easy dip or poultry paste. Freezing the juice in an ice cream maker can make an earthy sorbet that is healthier than pumpkin pie. As a longtime fan of foods that can make the jump from antiquity to modern times with flare, I’m betting on the pomegranate to be more than trendy. I believe its alluring flavors will seduce the world once again and it will become revered–if not in a sacred sense, then by holding a secure place in the mainstream diet. At that point, maybe Tater Tot hot dish will seem exotic.

    Chicken Pomegranate Stew
    (a version of Persian khoresh)

    2 cups fresh pomegranate juice (or 1/2 cup pomegranate molasses)
    1 cup ground almonds
    1 cup ground walnuts
    3 teaspoons sugar
    1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
    1/4 teaspoon saffron (dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot water)
    Pinch of cinnamon
    1/4 teaspoon thyme
    1 small yellow onion
    3 tablespoons olive oil
    1/2 teaspoon turmeric
    Salt and pepper to taste
    4- to 5-pound fryer chicken, cut up, skin removed (or 4 – 6 boneless, skinless chicken breasts)

    Combine pomegranate juice, nuts, sugar, and spices (except turmeric). Set aside.

    In a medium pot, saute onions in oil until translucent. Add chicken, just searing, then turmeric, salt, and pepper. Add 1 cup of water and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes.

    Add pomegranate mix and simmer for an additional 30 minutes, adding water if necessary.

    Remove from heat and cover for 10 minutes before serving. Serve over couscous.

  • Above His Station

    Those fond of appropriating F. Scott Fitzgerald’s observation that “the very rich are different from you and me” rarely include the follow-up—the part about why they are so. “They possess and enjoy early,” Fitzgerald explained in The Rich Boy, “and it does something to them, makes them soft where we are hard, and cynical where we are trustful.” This awareness might have first sprouted during his years at the St. Paul Academy, where he shared a private education with the sons of lumber barons and grain tycoons. Fitzgerald’s use of the inclusive “you and me” is somewhat attenuated, of course, given that he was at least sharing lavatories with them. But in Paris Hilton’s America (let’s allow Barbara Bush to speak for herself), where the slightest hint of a persona can seize fame when backed by a trust fund the size of Belgium, Fitzgerald’s indictment of the rich kid whizzing decadently into the next urinal still resonates.

    Jerome Hill, class of ’22, would likely have proved the exception had he not attended the academy a decade after Fitzgerald. Jerome demonstrated an earnest and incisive creative talent from an early age. And he was rich in the veriest sense. His grandfather was James J. Hill, empire builder and the patriarch of Summit Avenue, where his Romanesque mansion and the cathedral he built to honor his wife’s Catholicism still form the gateway to the grandest procession of homes in Minnesota. Jerome grew up next door, and fortune allowed him to self-publish a volume of poetry in his adolescence, to acquire a music degree at Yale, to master painting in the academies of Paris, and to contemplate the art of photography with Edward Weston.

    Yet such was the demand for seemly perfection amid all that wealth that the Hills’ home movies were filmed by Hollywood newsreel crews. Hill tells the story in the autobiographical Film Portrait of his artistic young self having to lark for the camera in front of an easel that held a painting left professionally unfinished by a hired artist. Hungry for a life beyond the striving capitalism of his family, Hill found a spiritual home as a young man in the Provençale town of Cassis, where he began to summer in 1931. He eventually acquired a villa there that became a veritable summer camp for artists, a place where hands and minds could never idle. He supported still more artists financially, and used his resources to compose, paint, photograph, and film with humbling diligence. Indeed, that very multidisciplinary productivity and his generous distribution of the wealth behind it may have prevented Hill’s reputation as a serious artist. Nonetheless, the avant-garde filmmaker Stan Brakhage, a friend and associate during Hill’s later years, was convinced that Hill achieved artistic success despite his wealth.

     

    Hill made his largest creative splash in cinema. (Walker Art Center pays tribute with A Filmmaker and His Legacy, four nights of screenings featuring his films and those of filmmakers supported by his foundation, from November 16 to 19.) He began to experiment seriously with the medium during the twenties and thirties, when the art of cinema was still young. In 1939, he collaborated with the Austrian Otto Lang on a short reel about alpine skiing on Washington’s Mount Rainier that received wide distribution in American theaters. During World War II, he produced training films for the American Army, and brought to his service many archived photographs of the south of France that were helpful for military intelligence.

    Hill’s first independent effort after the war was his 1950 film portrait of Anna Mary Robertson “Grandma” Moses. The director could not have been more different from his subject. Grandma Moses did not take up painting until she had farm-raised, fledged, and then outlived half of her ten children, and at that late hour only because her hands were ruined for domestic toil. Hill was a gay man approaching middle age who had learned to paint with one hand while the other clutched a silver spoon. But his admiration for Moses and her work is obvious. The opening scenes, which depict the nonagenarian’s domestic life, go a little heavy on the syrup and hokum. But a signature of Hill’s oeuvre is his trust in the ability of images to speak for themselves, and a five-minute idyll late in the film features only music, a few sounds, and slow panning across a variety of her paintings to great effect.

    Grandma Moses was nominated for an Academy Award, as was Hill’s next effort, a feature-length documentary about Albert Schweitzer, a name once synonymous with selfless Christian charity. Hill portrays the wizened physician and theologian’s sworn enmity to human misery with reverence: A lengthy scene recording Schweitzer’s rendition of a Bach prelude on the church organ in his native Alsatian village expresses pitch-perfect solemnity. Hill and his cinematographer Erica Anderson also spent weeks at Schweitzer’s hospital deep in the interior of Gabon in West Africa, where fungus crept into their lenses and the subtropical heat melted the film soon after exposure if it was not promptly dispatched. The film shoulders the white man’s burden during a few uncomfortable moments, due largely to screen idol Frederic March’s voicing of translations of Schweitzer’s writings. But Hill also lingers on the faces of the ill and destitute with a tenderness well beyond pity, and a final sequence that ponders what it means to be human against this backdrop of suffering and cultural isolation is transcendent and powerful. The effect was rewarded: Hill won the 1958 Oscar for best documentary feature.

    He intended thereafter to profile the Swiss psychiatrist Carl Jung. But after much preliminary work, Hill decided instead to pay allegorical tribute to Jung’s theories about dreams and the collective unconscious. Albert Schweitzer had consumed years of Hill’s creative life; a narrative film shot without professional actors on a single location seemed more manageable yet still challenging. The Sand Castle (screening at the Walker on November 18) ran during the summer of 1961 in New York and San Francisco, receiving generally positive reviews as a victory for America’s fledgling independent cinema. The central character is a young boy who captivates a gathering throng at the beach by sculpting a Mont St. Michel of sand. Hill camped it up with the supporting characters, archetypes all—a cavorting frogman, a martini-swilling fatso, a gaggle of nuns playing baseball—but the film is firmly rooted in the boy’s creative diligence. In a brilliant example of filmic layering, Hill cast his own dexterous hand for the close-ups of a painter’s evolving portrayal of the scene, a clear reference to the home movies of Hill’s youth. A cleverly animated dream sequence imparts the lesson that the artist has nothing to fear from the destruction of what he has wrought, for it all is deeply rooted within the mind. Hill portrays the sand castle as the perfect metaphor for ephemerality: The film ends as the boy watches without regret as his fortress is breached by the rising tide.

     

    The sixties began in earnest for Jerome Hill sometime before he was quoted in the New York Times in 1964 saying he intended to work on a project about LSD: “The dreams, or euphoria, or call it what you will, that it induces are, I’m convinced, dramatic stuff.” While Open the Door and See All the People, released that same year, was therefore not that film, it shows signs of being under the influence. Hill attempts to weave a story of love and manners through the contrasting worlds of aged twin sisters, one rich, one of modest means. One would think, given this disparity, that Hill hoped to cast a few stones at his lofty origins. But the resulting farce is hamstrung by the lack of professional acting, and the action careens from one scene to the next, somehow culminating in a massive food fight between rival Chinese restaurants. Aside from a few memorably odd and funny scenes—notably the sisters’ different reactions as they consecutively drive past an apparent car crash—the film tends to leave the viewer looking for footnotes. The score by Alec Wilder—a gifted composer who wrote for Frank Sinatra, Stan Getz, and Marian McPartland, among many others—was his fourth collaboration with Hill, and is the film’s finest asset.

    A longtime resident of Manhattan’s Algonquin Hotel, Hill became a part of New York’s avant-garde with his post-Schweitzer works, and collaborated with Stan Brakhage and Jonas Mekas, among others, to found Anthology Film Archives. (Mekas was a film diarist of Warhol’s New York, and his Walden features cameos by Allen Ginsberg, John Lennon, and Yoko Ono, as well as a time-lapse document of Hill’s Cassis villa.) He released several short films during this period, but he also worked on his legacy. He created two foundations, now called the Jerome and Camargo foundations, which have aided the development of artists in all disciplines. (Film projects supported by the Jerome Foundation screen on November 16 and 17.) And very quietly, according to Mekas, Hill made strategic financial contributions to ensure the establishment of an American cinema independent of Hollywood.

    Of course, Jerome Hill being a tireless artist, part of that legacy is his final cinematic creation, the brilliant, autobiographical Film Portrait. (A newly restored print screens on November 18.) Employing home movies, animations, and dramatizations, Hill traced the development of his own aesthetic parallel to the nascent art form of cinema. Given the means of his childhood, his family did not simply rent showings of the latest releases; they acquired the reels. In Film Portrait he ponders the effect that this collection, including the wondrous films of George Méliès (A Trip to the Moon), had on his artistic development: “What an advantage to be able to learn films by heart, as if they were pieces of music.” Cinema, “the seventh art” in Hill’s nomenclature, triumphs by seizing the ephemeral, by capturing “the eternal moment.” Footage of his own engagement in the editing process walks a tightrope between art and documentary—artist, editor, photographer, ontologist—successfully enough that Film Portrait nearly succeeds in defining its own metaphysics. As Mekas put it simply, the notion of film autobiography was entirely unique at the time. With subtle grace and wit, Hill wonders: “Isn’t voyeurism at the core of the cinematographic sense?”

    The Walker’s series culminates on November 19 with “An Evening with Todd Haynes”—screenings of Far From Heaven (2002) and Poison (1991) and a discussion with the director, whose early work was supported by the Jerome Foundation.