I’m wearing yellow in honor of Jupiter,” declared design-cum-business maven Stephanie Odegard. The Minneapolis native was in her twelfth-floor studio in the New York Design Center, cosseted in a modest office near two large showrooms that feature her acclaimed carpets and furniture. Odegard Inc. has six sales offices in the United States, operations in Nepal, and twelve thousand employees worldwide. She pays her workers a living wage, sponsors schools, and is one of the forces behind Rugmark, a program that certifies carpets made without child labor. But the strong impression one gets of Odegard is not of a capitalist titan but of a metaphysical seeker. Odegard’s company earns more than a million dollars a month, yet she takes the time to don a yellow scarf in observance of Jupiter’s Day, which, according to ancient astrological tradition, is Thursday.
Although Odegard “craves color,” she describes herself as a design minimalist. Her carpets are quiet seas of aquamarine, cerulean, tanzanite, and scarlet, sometimes with dashes of black at the borders. When she does include patterns, they are often subtle, just shades different than the background hues. Her home is a 1,200-square-foot Soho loft that she strives to keep empty. “You have this impulse to say ‘Here’s an empty space, I should put in a chair.’ It’s easy to fall into that, but I don’t want a house that’s filled. I can’t stand kitsch,” Odegard said, with a shudder and wave of the hand. “I live in fear of people giving me little presents. I don’t like lots of small things.”
Yet her office, where she spends most of her waking hours, is filled with small things. This is where a secondary aesthetic comes into play: object as memento. There are many gifts on the shelves, including a miniature collection of brown clay houses and temples arranged like a Nepalese Mister Rogers’ Neighborhood. On a lower shelf sits a set of four white ceramic cups from India, each painted with abstract, blue flowers. There are also ceramic, glass, and silver vases as well as many awards and a few framed photos of Odegard with the Dalai Lama.
Odegard came to design for unusual and idealistic reasons. She longed to see the world and make it better. In interviews, she often speaks not of design but of the need for people to be well nourished and educated. She travels the globe trying to accomplish these missions, creating jobs and buying materials. The gifts and oddities she’s collected—the spinning toy tops kept in a vase, the metal inlaid mirror of the Hindu elephant-headed god, Lord Ganesh—represent alliances, friendships, and business well conducted. Having them around creates an atmosphere of positivity. By her own account, Odegard travels so lightly that she often runs out of clothes, but you get the distinct feeling she would dutifully lug home a bag of bricks if they were given to her by someone she liked or attached to a meaningful event. Suddenly the paradox of the minimalist with an office full of things makes sense. To seek objects is noisome; but to reject what arrives is to court bad karma.
Year: 2007
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Meaningful Minimalism
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Go Down Moses
A recent intercepted email exchange between Monica Moses, executive director of product innovation at the Star Tribune, and Steve Perry, editor of City Pages, provided both a good laugh and good fodder for online discussion of “What the hell are newspapers and why are they seemingly dying?”
The exchange (posted on The Rake’s media blog) was precipitated by City Pages’ extensive coverage in January of the fire sale of the Strib by its parent company, McClatchy. In particular, Perry laid blame for the Strib’s recent circulation declines squarely at the feet of Moses, who had been the prime mover behind last year’s “redesign” of the Minneapolis daily. To summarize the emails, Moses thought Perry was full of crap, and vice versa.
Reading between the lines of the emails, though, it was possible to see much more than an internecine spat between journalists. (Of course, extending the title “journalist” to Moses would be a stretch, even though her title during the redesign was “deputy managing editor for visuals.”) What became clear was the vast chasm that has grown between today’s corporate-newspaper person and an old-styler like Perry, who operates under the quaint notion that newspapers are something other than a means to deliver demographics to advertisers.
If you need further evidence of the abyss, have a look at the statement McClatchy CEO Gary Pruitt made to the Wall Street Journal at the time of the Strib’s redesign in 2005: “The Star Tribune … is about to take the wraps off a redesign that we hope will make it a model for a Twenty-first Century newspaper.” That’s exactly the worldview Moses was defending: A modern “model newspaper” is defined by its design rather than its actual content. And as soon as the reporters who grew up on Watergate realize that, nowadays, their job duty is to “attract eyeballs” rather than “report stories,” they’ll be much happier. That the “model newspaper” is now worth about half of what McClatchy paid for it in 1998 should help to drive the point home, too.
To be fair, though, the paper’s pretty visual presentation, which takes up so much space that used to go to words, is perhaps a logical response to the falling circulation numbers at newspapers nationwide. If you want a newspaper to be more attractive to more people, make it more like the things they are attracted to: the pretty visuals and superficial content of TV and the Internet. (The smart youth-oriented television show Veronica Mars sent up this attitude perfectly a couple of weeks ago. When teen detective Veronica was shown a controversial newspaper story accompanied by slick visuals, her comment was, “Colored ink! It must be true.”)
So, while you are rethinking your newspaper in terms of colored ink, don’t forget to further transfigure your “readers” into “viewers” by shortening all stories. Don’t stop there, though. Where there is some room for words among the illustrations, fifteen-word summaries, and huge section titles, you can add features and columnists who are transparently chosen to appeal to a niche readership—one defined by its age or religion or politics.
The perfect example of the latter two criteria is columnist Katherine Kersten, who is profiled by Brian Lambert in this issue. No honest observer would deny that she was added to the Strib’s lineup as part of a package intended to appeal to political and religious conservatives. (She came on board around the same time several syndicated conservative writers began to appear regularly on the opinion pages.)
The fact that she’s conservative is not remarkable, per se. The fact that she’s so utterly predictable in her “family-values” brand of conservatism, and so consistently trite in her expression of it (her last two columns were about, respectively, the gentle old couple who met at Bible school and founded the Minnesota Family Council, and the evils of pervasive television violence) tells me that Strib editors have as little respect for the intelligence of their conservative readership as they do for the rest of us.
The reporters and editors who create whatever value remains inherent in the Star Tribune are nearly unanimously discouraged. They know the fate that chopped at the hamstrings of the Pioneer Press after its sale also awaits them. The Pioneer Press’ managers professed surprise when so many veteran reporters gladly took the offered buyouts. They clearly underestimated the acrimony they had created. And now it’s happened on the other side of the river, too.
Most reporters and editors believe, perhaps naively, that the essence of a newspaper is the news, not the packaging of the news. Increasingly, this puts them in conflict with their owners, who have no patience for idealistic notions about the crucial role a vigorous press plays in our culture, and no empathy for a work force that actually begs to do its job better.
Maybe what Pruitt really meant when he called the Strib a model newspaper was that it’s a poor excuse for a real one.
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When Harry Met Betty
One of life’s great truths—one that we desperately seek to avoid with proverbs and catechisms and even magazine articles—is that beneath its surface lies complexity. Our beloved fictions of heroes and villains crumble with scrutiny, leaving only convolution, shifting meanings, and unstable realities. The same is true of things. Even the simplest object has its hidden history of longing, love, and despair. Take, for example, cake. Chiffon cake.
Ask someone who lived through the 1950s to name the icons of that era, and chances are that—along with the ’57 Chevy, Lucy and Ricky, and the cul-de-sac rambler—chiffon cake will make their list. The recipe was introduced by General Mills in 1948 with a major marketing blitz that featured Betty Crocker, another 1950s icon. Betty, of course, is the fictional marketing persona invented in the 1920s by Marjorie Child Husted, a General Mills executive who sometimes posed as her creation. With Betty’s help, chiffon became a nationwide sensation. Billed as “the first really new cake in a hundred years,” thanks to its “mystery ingredient,” chiffon was light and fluffy like angel food cake, yet also rich and moist like butter cake, and it rapidly became a favorite of housewives from Syracuse to Oceanside.
Even today, the towering tube cake conjures a Kodachrome image of Mother, in lipstick and swing skirt, offering up love via food: the idealized feminine of mid-century America.
But just as the post-war feminine mystique had its dark, unspoken places, so, too, had the chiffon cake. The real mystery lurking beneath its lemony glaze is not a secret ingredient, but the secret life of its reclusive inventor: the appropriately named Harry Baker.The shorthand version of his history, repeated in a thousand cookbooks, notes that the insurance-salesman-turned-baker invented the cake in Los Angeles in 1927. He baked his chiffon cakes in his apartment kitchen in the Windsor Square neighborhood and sold them to the glamorous Brown Derby restaurant, where they pleased the palates of Hollywood’s studio stars. In 1947, Baker sold his closely guarded recipe to General Mills for an undisclosed sum—“because,” as one General Mills publication quotes him, “I wanted Betty Crocker to give the secret to the women of America.”
The complete version of Harry Baker’s life is more complicated, and you won’t find it in any cookbook, or anywhere else for that matter. “Just to mention his name was forbidden,” said his granddaughter, Sarah Baker, who is an attorney in Portland, Oregon. “I remember, maybe about 1964, my grandmother had a tea party for one of her sisters,” she recalled. “I had gone down to the kitchen to help her. She had her back to me, getting dishes out of a china cabinet, when I asked her, ‘Whatever happened to Grandfather Baker?’
“She whirled around faster than I knew she could move, looked at me absolutely furiously, and said, ‘We don’t talk about him.’ ”Although it was wildly popular in the 1950s, the chiffon cake had been figuratively gathering dust for decades by the time I discovered the recipe in the late 1990s. It was the tail end of the glorious dot-com boom years and I, a hopeless liberal-arts kid from way back, had landed a job, mainly out of curiosity, at a prestigious design firm in downtown Minneapolis. Visions of John Cheever and Darrin Stephens launched my wife and me into a sardonic but passionate craze for everything retro-1950s. Dressed for cocktails, she would greet me at the door after work, martinis in hand; during one such happy hour, while browsing in our 1956 edition of Betty Crocker’s Picture Cook Book, I stumbled upon the recipe for chiffon.
The job, the dress, the quest for fifties kitsch: forgotten. But my Betty still falls open to the creased and batter-spattered pages with the step-by-step photo directions for chiffon cake because, symbolism aside, it makes a truly splendid dessert.
Before chiffon, there had been but two types of cake. Foam cakes, like angel food, contain no shortening and rely on eggs for leavening; while butter cakes rise with baking powder. Chiffon combines the two, relying on both eggs and baking powder, and, the clincher, adds Harry Baker’s secret ingredient: vegetable oil (or, as it was called in those days, “salad oil”—another General Mills product, as it happens). The recipe calls for seven eggs. Their yolks are mixed with flour, sugar, leavening, and the oil to make a batter, which is folded into their whipped-hard whites.The result delivers on every one of Betty Crocker’s promises: Chiffon is simple, virtually foolproof. Light, moist, rich. And above all, “glamorous.” The lemon version (the only one I make) speckles starry citrus against a snowy sky of sweet, voluptuous crumb. Never dry, never cloying, never dull, it is, in short, the perfect cake. And the rave reviews earned by my first attempt brought me back to it time and again. Members of our extended family bring pies to Thanksgiving dinner. I make chiffon.
I had been an enthusiastic baker of the cake for some time when one day, drooling through back issues of Cook’s Illustrated magazine, I chanced upon an article on chiffon by food writer and Joy of Cooking contributor Stephen Schmidt. If you’ve read Cook’s Illustrated, you’ll already know that Schmidt tinkered exhaustively with the original Betty Crocker recipe to end up with something just a little better. (So he claims. I stick with the original.)
What caught my eye, however, was a sidebar article about Harry Baker. Schmidt repeated the standard biography: insurance salesman, 1927 discovery, service to the stars, etc. But he also uncovered some new details. For one thing, he noted that Baker, during his Hollywood heyday, shared his apartment “with his aging mother.” And the sale of the recipe to General Mills took on a new twist in Schmidt’s telling: “Having been evicted from his apartment, and fearing memory loss, the usually reclusive Baker trekked uninvited to Minneapolis to sell his recipe,” he wrote.
Every one of us is blessed with curiosity, and there are those among us who can keep it at bay. I’m not one of them. Taken together, these few scraps of information hinted at a story. One thing led to another, and eventually it turned out that I spent five years, on and off, chasing the elusive Hollywood inventor of my beloved chiffon cake.
In 1923, Paramount released Hollywood, a silent film that follows the misadventures of Angela Whitaker, a hapless girl from “Centerville” who can’t land a film part in the land of dreams come true. The film is laced with nearly eighty cameo appearances by virtually every star of the silent era: Mary Pickford, Charlie Chaplin, Pola Negri, Cecil B. DeMille, Will Rogers.
That same year, tycoons who owned the Hollywoodland Real Estate erected an enormous sign to advertise their corporation. Years later, Peg Entwistle, a real-life Angela Whitaker, would throw herself off the four-story “H.” Eventually, the Hollywood chamber of commerce toppled the last four letters of the sign and it’s been an icon of American dreams ever since.
1923 also saw the arrival of Harry Baker in Hollywood. He, too, came from Ohio. He was forty years old. Behind him he’d left his wife, Mary, and two children, Harry Jr. and Mary. His insurance business had gone sour. He was broke. Looking for a new source of cash, he turned to his lifelong hobby: fudge. A confectioner in the tony Wilshire neighborhood bought it from Baker for fifty cents a pound. It was enough to afford him a living.
Harry also began to tinker with cake recipes, and he would have put Cook’s Illustrated’s Stephen Schmidt to shame. He devised more than four hundred different recipes in his quest to bake a sweeter, moister angel food cake. He varied ingredients, measurements, and the baking time and temperature. Nothing satisfied. In later years, he described the eureka moment that led him to salad oil in almost mystical terms: It was, he told a reporter at the Minneapolis Tribune, a “sixth sense—something cosmic” that revealed his secret ingredient. And it worked.
During the time that Harry Baker was handing out experimental cakes to his neighbors, a handful of entrepreneurs pooled resources to launch a restaurant on Wilshire Boulevard. The Brown Derby opened for business in 1926, in a building shaped to match its name. Two years later—call it another cosmic twist—Harry Baker walked in with a sample of his unbelievable cake. It became one of the Derby’s signature dishes.
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Babysitting the Monkey
When I was a kid, I wanted to grow up to be a lot of things. I wanted to be Carol Burnett. I wanted to be a trapeze artist, performing death-defying loop de loops high above the crowds while wearing a dazzling bikini made entirely of rubies and sapphires. I wanted to be a kindergarten teacher. I also wanted to work with monkeys in some way, but I wasn’t totally sure what a person could do with monkeys that wouldn’t involve being a monkey doctor, which I was pretty sure would involve a lot of expensive schooling. I was also pretty sure that funny kindergarten teachers didn’t make that kind of money, even if they did moonlight as trapeze artists on the weekends. So, I figured I’d have to settle for being a monkey babysitter. On the upside, that would involve feeding monkeys from baby bottles. On the downside, it would also involve changing monkey diapers.
The point is: I never wanted to be a wife. I never dreamt about it, like you hear about some girls doing. I never once imagined my wedding, or honeymoon, or any kind of happily ever after with anybody but me, my circus friends, my tidy classroom full of brilliant children, and a smattering of mischievous primates.
I was a TV junkie. Watching television, I saw being a wife as just about the worst thing that could happen to you. It wasn’t as bad as today, when every TV wife is trim and sassy and confident yet married to a dump truck, but it was still pretty bad. In my TV adolescence, the wives yelled and were married to doofuses who were either controlling egomaniacs and/or bumbling bigot nano-wits. You know, inmates like Alice Kramden or Edith Bunker. Either that or the TV wives oozed a kind of sanitized, tranquilized, infantilized version of grown-up womanhood that spooked me to my core. Like Caroline Ingalls or Mrs. Cunningham.
There were times when I longed to reach my hand through the looking-glass screen and slap some sense into Carol Brady, tell her to wake up out of her suburban Seconal fog and go to school. Tell her to quit living vicariously through Marcia and get out there and live! Damn it! Live! She could afford to do it. And no one would miss her. Alice did all the work around that place, anyway.
I got older, and my dreams changed. I wanted to be Steve Martin. I still wanted to be a kindergarten teacher. I wanted to be a rock singer, wailing out my tortured yet stylishly sexy soul in an arena full of dancing fans. (I’d still be wearing the sapphire-and-ruby bikini, but now with Kiss monster boots.)
The point is, being a wife was still the last thing on my mind—even after I had my kids. Still, I eventually did get married…no sitcom, despite its cancellation after two seasons. And then a funny thing happened. I met this guy. We hit it off. He had a line for it—he said the rocks in his head fit the holes in mine. I wanted to hang around with him as much as I could every day, and getting married seemed like the perfect way to rope that dogie.
So I’m a wife. And I still have crazy dreams. I no longer want to be Carol Burnett or Steve Martin; I want to be me, but a better version of me. I would rather take a rusted ninja star to my windpipe than supervise a roomful of five-year-olds. Hanging out with my husband’s writer pals satisfies my desire to volunteer time with nit-picking chimps.
I haven’t surrendered all of my fantasies. I would still love to strut around in a jeweled bikini and dragon boots like some video-game babe. I will have to do this one on my own, since my husband refuses to wear his emerald codpiece and cape (except when the Packers are in the playoffs).
I even have new crazy dreams. I would like to own a solar-powered bed and breakfast. I would like to produce an evening news show for cable access where sock puppets deliver all the news. And of course, there is this guy I’m married to. I want to hang out with him, every day. -
Mick Jagger as You’ve Never Seen Him
As a relative newcomer to the Rake family, I was reassured and gratified by fresh research asserting that you, the average Rake reader, are not much of a couch potato. Or if you are, your eyeballs are fixed to a book or magazine rather than a TV screen. The numbers say twenty-six percent of you are more likely to have “no exposure to TV on an average weekday” than the tubers next door.
This is good for you and me.
After fifteen years of neuron-shriveling exposure, covering what passes for prime time entertainment television for the St. Paul Pioneer Press, I can tell you I’m dangerously close to a cumulative toxic meltdown. I can’t take much more contact with the sprawling, roiling, highly profitable, knucklehead media universe around us. Like you, apparently, I would just as soon spend my media time absorbing what’s valuable—even, I dare say, artful and edifying—and ignoring the latest cross-pollinated fodder for the high-profile, lowbrow, Paris-and-Britney-go-prancing-with-the-stars, eighteen-to-thirty-four-year-old target demo.
When I do pull myself away from the work-related computer screen long enough to watch television, it no longer occurs to me to spend a half-hour with a sitcom. I mean, come on. There’s a playoff game on ESPN, an airliner crashing on National Geographic’s Seconds from Disaster, and a bunch of embalmed white guys sneering about Nancy Pelosi on Fox News. This stuff is real, I’ve decided, and to some extent unpredictable. (OK, not Fox News, but you catch my drift.)
Unfortunately, I have a hard time maintaining aesthetic purity. I thought Borat was genius. I’ll lose a half-hour watching some part of Dumb and Dumber every time it pops up on TBS, which is about three times a week. And I believe the Cohen brothers deserve a lifetime achievement award for The Big Lebowski alone.
Likewise, I have a thing for a certain kind of sitcom. The problem is the kinds of sitcoms I like never seem to last long. They get good reviews, and then, a few weeks later, a pink slip. WTF? Well, one reason is that people like me—and you—have lost the habit, probably forever, of making appointments with entertainment television.
Take for example The Knights of Prosperity, a new sitcom on ABC. It only caught my attention because I saw that David Letterman’s company, Worldwide Pants, was producing it, along with Mick Jagger, who also has a small, recurring role. “David Letterman,” I thought. “And Mick Jagger. How stupid could this be?”
Turns out it wasn’t stupid. In fact, it was pretty funny. The shtick here has actor Donal Logue, your classic fleshy, compulsively amusing Irishman, and his band of multi-cultural minimum-wage warriors deciding to make their grab for the brass ring by ripping off Jagger’s fifty-two-million-dollar Manhattan apartment.
The show worked. Or, I should say, the pilot worked, since I haven’t seen episode number two. Someone at Worldwide Pants obviously enjoyed the time he spent researching dialogue in blue-collar bars, and left feeling something for all the impossible, implausible dreams submerged there. I get Mick Jagger pimping himself and much lesser celebrities. I like the idea of sitcom characters that look and sound like the streets of New York.
But Knights of Prosperity is doomed, and here’s why: Because you and I, dear highbrow, literary-loving Rake reader, are the show’s best audience. The thing is toast because you’ve never heard of it, and I’ll probably never watch it again.
My theory is that uncommon sitcoms, sitcoms with some sense of artistic risk, daring, or refusal to conform to stale norms, appeal best to people—you and me—who have for the most part blocked sitcoms from our cultural radar. The only thing our experience with crap like According to Jim, Two and a Half Men, and King of Queens ever validated was that sitcom watching was a waste of time, time better spent shouting back at Bill O’Reilly, breaking down defenses with John Madden, or listening to some C-SPAN policy wonk explain the roots of the Sunni-Shia schism. -
Big Box Theater
A few months ago, while walking along the Stone Arch Bridge with a friend from Manhattan, the bright blue Guthrie Theater looming above us, I realized that Jean Nouvel’s big new thing might be one of the few places in Minneapolis that would actually impress a New Yorker. So we wandered into one of its many bars and, though it was early in the afternoon, ordered cocktails. Why not? In the dim interior light, we quickly lost track of time. Patrons for the 2:00 p.m. matinees and the 7:00 p.m. evening shows meandered through while we sank deeper into the seductive leather seats, drinking and talking and drinking. We considered seeing a show ourselves, but ordered a six-dollar bowl of almonds instead.
By 9:00 p.m., we were standing out on the “Bridge to Nowhere,” squinting drunkenly at the lights reflecting off the Mississippi River and talking about how beautiful theater in the Twin Cities can be. (When I’m drunk, I say “beautiful” too much.) If the purpose of theater is to entertain, then the new Guthrie succeeds, beautifully. We never even bothered to enter any actual theaters, and we were happy.
On the other side of the river, just north of downtown St. Paul, the Gremlin Theatre company lives in the back of a building on an astonishingly isolated stretch of Sibley Street. Their performance space used to be the loading dock for the rug company that occupied the space after the shoe factory vacated. In 2002, Gremlin renovated it for—no joke—five thousand times less than it cost to build the new Guthrie Theater. The only visible sign that a theater lives inside is a wooden sandwich board set out on the sidewalk on show days.
Sometimes, at an intermission for a show in the Loading Dock Theater, the owners of a coffee shop in another corner of the building remember to open. But they’ve always appeared deeply bewildered by the line of customers waiting to buy something from them. Once I ordered a cup of tea, and the guy behind the counter asked me how to make it.
In fact, the experience of live performance at Gremlin appears on the surface to be so different from the Guthrie experience that I wonder whether they’re referring to the same thing when they refer, in their names, to “theater.”So what do we—and should we—look for when we go? Tennessee Williams’ The Glass Menagerie, currently playing on the Guthrie’s McGuire Proscenium stage until March 25, inspires an interesting analogy to the local theater community. Indeed, Tom, the narrator, informs the audience that the play is, in part, about what theater can and should be. Other theater folk, he tells us, “give you illusion that has the appearance of truth. I intend to give you truth in the pleasant guise of illusion.”
Tom is the play’s writer. He works in a shoe factory (coincidentally apropos of Gremlin’s current digs), though he has bigger dreams. His coworkers call him “Shakespeare,” and he eventually gets fired for writing poems on shoeboxes. At night, he escapes to the movies, avoiding an equally suffocating home life in a St. Louis tenement apartment. (Most living playwrights, too, can be seduced by the movies on the off chance they’ll make some real dough.) He lives with his overbearing mother Amanda—who is like your annoying-but-amusing theater friend from high school who speaks in a distracting, slightly put-upon accent and always wants you to appreciate her—and his terminally shy sister Laura, both of whom await the arrival of Jim, the Gentleman Caller.
Tom describes the Gentleman Caller as “the long-delayed but always expected something that we live for.” We, the audience, are to the theater community what the Gentleman Caller is to the The Glass Menagerie. Without us, the drama doesn’t happen. Yet when we head out for the evening, we, like Jim, are almost always oblivious to the nature of the drama we are about to enter. Generally, we’re just out looking for a good time.
Finally, Laura is theater itself. She can be hopelessly awkward, embarrassingly sensitive, torturously maladjusted, and uniquely beautiful. Sometimes, you just want to scream at her to grow up, get away from her mother, and get a real job. But then, when the lights are magically altered just so and music wafts in from some unknown location, you surprise yourself by suddenly falling for her. As Jim tells Laura in the play, “ … different people are not like other people, but being different is nothing to be ashamed of … They’re one hundred times one thousand. You’re one times one!” And before you realize what you’re doing, before you can think better of it, you have to kiss her.
Laura reminds me of a young girlfriend who loved me even when I didn’t deserve it. In retrospect, I wish she had given up on me sooner and found healthier, more practical ways to expend her energy. Yet her unwillingness to turn off her emotions—the way she insisted on taking seriously things that the rest of the world takes for granted—is a quality that I still admire in theater. The flaws make me reach out to her more tenderly and hopefully.All the other theaters in the Twin Cities exist in the shadow of the new Guthrie. None of the others have such a grandiose physical presence or sleek production values; in fact, few theaters in the entire world, let alone the Twin Cities, provide as luxurious an experience. Even the almonds are expensive. The Guthrie is to the theater world what the New York Yankees are to baseball, paying large-market premiums to showcase world-class talent—and occasionally nabbing actors from productions at smaller companies that can’t compete with the salaries it offers.
Unlike the Yankees, however, the Guthrie’s presence so changes the landscape that it can take some credit for actually supporting theaters that nominally compete with it for audience. By employing so many artists and technicians, it helps keep talented people in the Twin Cities year round. It makes leftover props and furniture available to many small companies at reasonable cost. It has even begun to help bring these companies to larger audiences by running their productions in the new Dowling Studio. (You can see four top-selling shows from last year’s Fringe Festival in the studio February 1–4.)
Finally, the Guthrie experience is alluring to people who don’t normally consider live performance a part of their life. An evening there is an event in the same way that going to the Metrodome includes more than a baseball game. You can have food, cocktails, and a beautiful view. If the show disappoints, at least there are pretty lights and booze.
At the same time, unfortunately, many people never have an alternative experience. (One full house at the Guthrie is a good-sized audience for an entire four-week run of a Gremlin production.) For them, the Guthrie is synonymous with theater—even more so now that even New Yorkers are willing to acknowledge its grandeur. I wonder, however, whether this showplace fosters false expectations in its audiences and, even sometimes, its artists. If the Guthrie has the expertise and financial wherewithal to create on the stage the type of clean, luxurious, virtually perfect experience that it offers in its numerous bars, why should it hold back? But on the other hand, should a play be that comfortable? Should it be that shiny and impressive? Watching incredible sets fly in and out, for example, you may find yourself marveling at the quality of air-traffic control rather than the quality of the play.
And what then becomes of Laura, whose strangeness makes her so special? “Art is a kind of anarchy and theater is a province of art,” as Tennessee Williams himself insisted, in an essay titled “Something Wild.” “It runs counter to the sort of orderliness on which organized society apparently must be based.” (By his measure, purchasing tea at Gremlin Theater may actually be the more beautiful theater experience.)
Theater, at its best, not only entertains but also nurtures what Tennessee Williams called a “highly personal, even intimate relationship” with us, the audience. We enter a unique, often-flawed world that nonetheless sometimes offers a closer approximation of truth than we see in our day-to-day lives. “It is sad and embarrassing and unattractive,” Williams admitted in another essay titled “Person to Person,” “that those emotions that stir [the playwright] deeply enough to demand expression, and to charge their expression with some measure of light and power, are nearly all rooted, however changed in their surface, in the particular and sometimes peculiar concerns of the artist himself.” In The Glass Menagerie, for example, Williams recreates his memory of his sister in such a way that the true, heartbreaking beauty beneath her odd, fragile exterior can be more easily seen. We simply cannot experience theater if we substitute, consciously or unconsciously, comfort for this peculiar, sometimes “embarrassing and unattractive” light and power.
Of course, no theater should be defined by the experience you have in the lobby. Good theater—being alive and different every night—may seduce us like Laura on the Guthrie’s grand proscenium stage, up in its Dowling Studio, and just as well, down at the Loading Dock Theater (where Gremlin is producing a fun new play, Bach at Leipzig, by a young playwright named Itamar Moses)—or anywhere in the Twin Cities that wants to call itself a theater. Afterward, I recommend going to the new Guthrie for cocktails. I hear the cheese plate is good, too. -
One for the Sons of Bitches
Do you know who wrote your favorite film? If the names Sidney Howard, Frances Goodrich, and Joseph Stefano fill you with a sense of admiration, then congratulations on recognizing what most of us consider trivial: These are the people who wrote the classics Gone With The Wind, It’s A Wonderful Life, and Psycho. Even among filmmakers, the obscure status of screenwriters tends to be the norm—director Nicholas Ray once grumbled, “If it were all in the script, why make the film?”
Ray was referring to the gulf between the script and what ultimately shows on the silver screen. By the time a finished flick hits your hometown theater, the screenplay, just one small part of the overall process of filmmaking, has devolved into a mongrel combination of original and consumer demand. Sometimes, as with “high-concept” franchises like the Mission: Impossible series, you don’t even need the kernel of original thought—the script is almost an afterthought. At the very least, the screenplay is interpreted by a dozen very different pairs of eyes, from the director’s to every actor who mangles a line, to the cinematographer and editor. If you want power over your art, screenwriting is the last medium to pursue.
Nevertheless, as it is for so many others in the movie business, an Academy Award is the premier accolade for a screenwriter. Perhaps to make up for the lowly status of writers in the pecking order, the Writers Branch of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences seems to take great pride in making oddball choices in films it selects to vie for the best screenplay Oscar (individual branches of the Academy—Directors, Composers, Film Editors, etc.—nominate films for awards in their categories). Sometimes the directors go crazy and give David Lynch a nod, but for the most part, the Writers Branch has a habit of unearthing the strange bedfellow, nominating and awarding an established literary figure (George Bernard Shaw, John Irving), or tipping its hat to an edgy new presence like Quentin Tarantino. While the Academy as a whole often bestows crowd-pleasers like Rocky or Titanic with the best picture award, screenplay awards have gone to such daring fare as Network, L. A. Confidential, and The Piano.
Best Original Screenplay remains the only Oscar that Citizen Kane won, and the only Oscar that Orson Welles ever could claim as his own. Charlie Kaufman, perhaps the best screenwriter working in America today, has his for Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind. He was also nominated the previous year for his masterwork, Adaptation, a movie whose conceit was that a screenwriter named Charlie Kaufman created an imaginary twin brother Donald, and together they attempted to adapt an unfilmable book into a decent screenplay (both Charlie and the imaginary twin were nominated in real life). Pedro Almodóvar has his, too, for Talk To Her.
Because it rewards eccentricity, there is a certain hip factor to the best original screenplay Oscars. This category remains the one corner of the Academy where, year after year, some of the coolest films get nominations—and actually win. While Sideways might earn nods for best picture and best director, no one expects it to actually win those awards … but it did earn Alexander Payne and Jim Taylor statuettes for best adapted screenplay. In 1995, Christopher McQuarrie’s Byzantine Usual Suspects beat out the much more classically structured (and ham-fisted) Braveheart; and Preston Sturges—a comic genius and arguably one of our greatest directors—has three nominations for his writing, one of which (The Great McGinty) resulted in an Oscar.
But just as the Academy likes to award actors- turned-directors (Robert Redford, Clint Eastwood, Kevin Costner, Mel Gibson)—perhaps knowing these icons would never win an acting award—so, too, it awards actors who lower themselves to write. Billy Bob Thornton, a legitimately decent actor, owns a little gold man for writing Sling Blade, as do Matt Damon and Ben Affleck for Good Will Hunting; Emma Thompson has one for acting in Howard’s End and another for her adaptation of Sense and Sensibility. Certainly, it does the Writers Branch no harm to welcome these high-profile types into its inner circle; while one could accuse the members of kowtowing to the stars, there’s also a case to be made for crediting the passion of writers—whoever they are—in bringing to the screen a work that they’re especially tuned into. Affleck and Damon were barely on the rise when they won their screenplay award, as was Thornton; and Thompson simply adored Austen.
Despite that passion, only the most devoted film buffs seem to glom on to published screenplays. Plays, too, are seldom read, but often published in the hopes that they’ll be produced (moreover, while theater buffs outside large cities might never get to see the new Pulitzer-winning play, movies are accessible anywhere). And if you’ve ever cracked a copy of Kurosawa’s Seven Samurai with the best intentions—as I’ve done—you’re likely eventually to set it down and cue the DVD instead. Robert Towne’s Chinatown, rightfully heralded as one of the greatest screenplays ever written and taught in the best scriptwriting classes, is one exception of a well-read script. It remains that writer’s only Oscar—he’d been nominated for Last Detail and Shampoo in addition to Chinatown, for three nominations in as many years; sadly, it may have damned him to a lifetime of comparison. (His most recent work was the risible Ask the Dust.)
The script for Chinatown reads like one of Dashiell Hammett’s hard-boiled thrillers, sparse and compelling; it still makes one shudder at its grasp of evil. But do we recoil from the wretched Noah Cross as we read him on the page, or because of what we remember of John Huston and how his acting in that role provoked such dread? Thing is, Chinatown is a classic because of its screenplay but also because of Roman Polanski’s vision, which gave the film its sense of foreboding, and its grim, cynical ending—which the director changed from Towne’s upbeat close. Then, too, there is Nicholson’s foolish leading man, John A. Alonzo’s washed-out cinematography, and Jerry Goldsmith’s moody score. Add to all of these a producer in Robert Evans, who brought these talents together and kept them from one another’s throats.
When Irving G. Thalberg was the boss of Universal Studios during the mid-1920s, he bluntly summed up the prevailing attitude toward those who toiled on screenplays: “The writer is the most important person in Hollywood. But we must never tell the sons of bitches.” Studios have always been desperate for good ideas, and the screenwriter is your source for this most important product. Ultimately, though, no screenplay—from Citizen Kane to Chinatown—can stand alone as a classic. Perhaps this is because film is both utterly collaborative and thoroughly permanent. Plays are momentary, changing with each production, and the faces, voices, and places in a book are visualized differently by each person who reads it. But a movie, once made, exists essentially forever. Just as no one can ever remake Chinatown without seeing Jack Nicholson, no one can go back to Towne’s original vision, even if someone were foolish enough to attempt a remake. It’s in our collective consciousness now.
Movies need screenwriters as much as they need actors and actress, producers and directors and editors. And while the writers are the ones who see the film first, in their heads, they are perhaps the ones who suffer most as they watch their vision mutate into the final product. The screenwriter might indeed be the most important son of a bitch in Hollywood, but he is not the only son of a bitch by far. -
Red Heat from Spain
I have often thought that the Forty Martyrs of Sebasteia should be the patron saints of Minnesota. Never mind that they are most likely mythical; they can stand for all the other martyrs the Romans executed in the first three centuries A.D. And the myth is certainly appropriate to our chilly state.
The Forty, it is said, were Roman legionaries serving on the Empire’s Euphrates frontier in what is now eastern Turkey when they were given the command to offer sacrifice to the Roman gods. When they refused, they were ordered to stand out in the middle of a frozen lake ’til they changed their minds. One of them did actually give way, legging it to the shore and then to a nearby bathhouse, which had been fired up by the detachment’s commanding officer in order to provide an allurement to apostasy. He promptly exploded. And the bathhouse keeper no less promptly ran out onto the ice to make the number of martyrs back up to forty. What then? Crowns, of course, descended from heaven onto the martyrs’ frozen heads, to the accompaniment of unearthly music and the crashing applause of the first-night audience. Martyrdom on Ice: If Minnesota doesn’t like the title, you could try it on Broadway.
An appropriate saintly patron is also apparently being sought for the Internet. The heavenly protector of Al Gore’s invention will probably be Saint Isidore, bishop of Seville in southern Spain in the early seventh century, and compiler of a work that swiftly became the medieval equivalent of Wikipedia. The Internet and Isidore surely deserve each other; Isidore’s Etymologies are replete with secondhand information, difficult to navigate, and often inaccurate. While the Internet …
What Isidore says about wine, for instance, is a characteristic blend of the derivative, the unpalatable, and the obvious. He alludes to Falernian, the famous sweet white wine from ancient Campania, which he had read about in Roman authors like Horace but is hardly likely to have savored himself. Beverages he is more likely to have actually sampled sound rather less pleasant—for instance, Oenomelum, a sickly syrup compounded of wine and honey.
But then, just as you give up on him, Isidore displays a gem of genuine interest. He mentions the wines of Gaza, carried from the Holy Land as ballast in the ships bringing pilgrims home from Jerusalem. This is interesting because archaeologists find the distinctive, dumpy flasks that held Gaza wine at excavations of post-Roman sites all over Western Europe. In fact, they find them as far away as the southern coast of England, where grand beach barbecues seem to have greeted the arrival of merchant ships coming from the eastern Mediterranean. It is good when the written story fits the physical facts. In fact, Gaza wine is important as evidence that Mediterranean trade long survived the end of the Roman Empire, until the Arab invasions swept through the lands east and south of the Mediterranean, reaching, within a century of his death, southern Spain where Isidore had lived and written.
Funnily enough, Isidore has nothing to say about the wines of his native Spain. It seems that they were no better publicized in the seventh century than they are now. That may be why they are such an excellent value when you do find them.
Try, for instance, the 2004 vintage of Protocolo, which costs less than seven dollars hereabouts. This wine comes from the high plains of La Manchuela in the bottom right-hand corner of Spain, an area with extremes of climate that the Forty Martyrs would have found familiar. The color is a deepest red, like the workers’ flag (which shrouded oft our martyred dead)—this area was a stronghold of the International Brigades during the Spanish Civil War. The grape is the Tempranillo, the variety made famous by Rioja, but Protocolo is innocent of the turpsy oak associated with those famous wines. This is a well-balanced and fruity wine with a firm scrunch in the center of the taste. This was pleasing with a piece of steak and tasted just as good with pasta. One can imagine it accompanying paella. At that price one could even mull it with suitable spices. If you do, be careful not to boil off the alcohol (there’s plenty). Anything to keep winter at a distance. -
Green is God
I never expected to find love at a roadside market. In Florida, no less. But there, down an aisle from stacks of bright oranges and piles of juicy grapefruit, was a small, plastic tub of guacamole so smooth and delicious, so perfectly spiced, that I fell head over heels. It’s uncommon to find guacamole that truly lives up to the beauty of a fresh, buttery avocado. Most end up as blobby, over-whipped, mousse-like concoctions that carry no punch. Yet, this roadside gem was a chunky mash of silky avocado pieces and bright bursts of citrus, with a subtle undercurrent of heat. It’s unfortunate that I have forgotten the name and location of the market, because I fear that the memory of that guacamole will never go away.
I’m not alone in my devotion to the odd, nubby fruit and its offspring dip. The avocado has been thought to be an aphrodisiac for ages. The Aztecs saw it as a fertility symbol, naming it ahuacatl, meaning “testicle,” most likely because of its shape. Some stories even relate an ancient custom of locking up the virgins during harvest time. The sexy fruit’s reputation has proven hard to shake. It wasn’t until the 1920s, when American growers spun a virtuous public-relations campaign, that good citizens felt able to purchase the fruit without fear of damaging their reputations. There’s little doubt that the avocado has hit the mainstream: more are consumed on Super Bowl Sunday than any other day, including Cinco de Mayo. On that special Sunday, it is estimated that fans will consume nearly fifty million pounds of avocado, enough to cover a football field with close to twelve feet of guacamole.
There are two main varieties of avocado grown in this country, Fuerte and Hass. The Fuerte tree is largely credited with creating the California avocado industry, which supplies roughly ninety percent of the country’s crop. Among a group of such trees once brought up from Mexico, only one survived the great freeze of 1913. It was named Fuerte, the Spanish word for “vigorous.” All Hass avocado trees can be traced back to a single “mother tree” planted in La Habra Heights, California, by a mail carrier named Rudolph Hass, who patented his tree in 1935. The original tree, which spawned thousands more, died of root rot in 2002.
It’s important to understand the splendor of avocados beyond guacamole. More than a few Californians have recounted memories of eating the fruit from their own backyards, simply scooping out the flesh with a spoon and maybe adding a dash of salt. In solid, un-mashed form, a slice of avocado on a piece of crusty bread lives up to its Chinese name of “butter fruit.” The beauty lies in its mild flavor and soft-yet-firm texture, which provides a welcome contrast to a salty Cobb salad or a thick turkey sandwich.
To the world and its chefs, the avocado is a much-loved ingredient. Who doesn’t adore a sushi roll that contains a sliver of avocado? Balanced superbly with raw tuna in the Four Seasons roll from Bagu Sushi, the avocado nicely complements a swath of flying fish roe. In the restaurant’s French Kiss roll, plump with crab, asparagus, and cream cheese, it adds just the right touch of buttery lightness. Though I haven’t found a great example locally, one of the most refreshing desserts I’ve ever had was a Filipino drink made with avocados and ice cream.
Sometimes it’s simplicity that helps the avocado shine. The linked restaurants of Zelo, Bacio, and Ciao Bella have a salad called the Brasiliana, in which cubes of ripe avocado mingle with small palm hearts, chunks of tomato, and slices of onion and celery in a tart lemon vinaigrette. In each simple-yet-elegant bite, the avocado nearly melts with the citrus and softens the slight crunch and tang of the palm heart. While not intricate, the dish celebrates the avocado’s strengths. The 112 Eatery offers a more surprising use of the fruit that is no less graceful. Their crostini, with white anchovies and avocado, pits the dusky and briny against the fresh and bright, creating an engaging bite. If you’ve fallen hard for guacamole, and all other uses for the avocado seem ridiculous, I hear you. For ease and accessibility, as well as freshness, you can’t do better than Chipotle. Squelch your hate of chain establishments: Their bright green guac is made often and made well. If the need is less urgent, and the situation calls for a more refined atmosphere, Masa’s Guacamole Picado hits the mark. Tart and chunky, you’ll want to eat it with the chips, the veggies, and even a spoon. For a good show and a little instruction on perfect mashing, check out the legendary tableside guac at Tejas, where they know how to work the mortar and pestle.
It’s rare to find two people who like their guacamole exactly the same way. The key to having great guac may be the key to all great relationships: Keep it fresh. Possibly the best option is to bring home a bag of avocados, tuck into the kitchen, and create your own guacamole, one that will keep you coming back for more. Just don’t over-mash.Guacamole
3 ripe avocados
Juice from 1 medium lime
1/4 cup chopped white onion
3/4 cup freshly chopped cilantro
1 tsp. crushed red pepper
Salt and pepper to taste
Set aside one pit after scooping out avocados. Throw avocado and all other ingredients together and lightly mash with a fork. Depending on your preference, you may want to add tomatoes or use jalapenos. Add the spare pit (to help keep the guac green), cover, and let sit for a bit before serving.SHOP TALK
If you haven’t checked in at Solera in a while, the new seasonal/neuva tapas list—modern small plates inspired by the cuisines of Spain—are worth a fresh visit. Included are wine-braised rabbit with chocolate and citrus and deviled eggs with blue crab and cumin. Yes, please! If, like me, you’re not keen on decisions, the chef will design for you a tasting menu of eight pieces for under $30 (solera-restaurant.com) … From February 23–25, the Minneapolis Convention Center will be packed to the rafters with noshers and snackers looking for the best bite our towns have to offer—in other words, it’s time once again for the Twin Cities Food and Wine Experience. See foodwineshow.com for details … Don’t forget that the St. Paul Farmers’ Market (stpaulfarmersmarket.com) has winter hours, Saturdays from 9 a.m. to noon. The bounty of local cheeses, baked goods, meats, eggs and chocolates will help remind you that there will be a thaw. … The culinary outings at Stillwater’s Outing Lodge (outinglodge.com) are both creative and tasty. This month’s “Food for Lovers” dinner on Valentine’s Day includes oysters and chocolate, while the Mardi Gras ball on February 20 celebrates that last great meal before Lent with lobster bisque, escargot, and foie gras.CUISINE SUPREME
Temple Bar and Restaurant
A stellar Asian restaurant has been one of the major things missing from the downtown Minneapolis scene. Tom Pham, the force behind Azia, has filled the need with Temple. Sultry and opulent, Temple took over the old Tiburon space and kept the giant fish tank, now filled with huge, colorful Koi. The menu’s French/Indonesian focus is apparently inspired by Pham’s grandmother, but it also plays with other flavors. Small-plate standouts include the refreshing scallop ceviche with Asian pear salad, and the more decadent pan-roasted quail with duck liver ravioli. Tea-roasted pork tenderloin, a beautiful champagne-poached salmon, and amazingly tender Mandarin orange-braised short ribs are all great options for bigger plates, but pass on the stone-grilled Kobe, which doesn’t live up to the price. As at Azia, the saucily named drinks are just as important as the food: try the Innocent Geisha or When Anton Met Gwenevere for an interesting night. 1201 Harmon Place, Minneapolis; 612-767-3770; www.mplstemple.comThe General Store Café
Longtime patrons of this Minnetonka retail institution know that a perfect end to a flurry of spending is a quiet table and some freshly made fare. Hearty sandwiches on Breadsmith loaves, baked daily, are piled high with just about whatever you want. Soups and other specials change daily, although the ginger-laced chicken salad is so popular that it seems to stay year-round. For dessert, dense cakes and a legendary bread pudding are rivaled only by a well-rounded selection of Sebastian Joe’s ice cream. 14401 Highway 7, Minnetonka; 952-935-7131; www.generalstoreofminnetonka.comBascali’s Brick Oven
Sometimes the pizza is not the reason to go to a pizza joint—even when it’s brick-oven pizza. Because, while good pizza can be had everywhere, good calzones are rare. And at Bascali’s, a little hole in the wall in St. Paul, the calzones will capture your heart. Slowly baked in an imported Italian brick oven, the calzones emerge with a crispy outer crust and fresh ingredients inside that are tender and avoid the soupiness that plague lesser calzones. Especially recommended are the pungent California chicken version with pesto and garlic and the classic sausage- and pepper-filled Italiano; but the owners wisely include the option to create your own as well. 1552 Como Ave., St. Paul; 651-645-6617; www.bascalis.com www.bascalis.com -
Trampled By Turtles
The definitive sound of the North Country remains elusive, even as the Twin Ports become glutted with great live music venues and bands worth checking out. Is Duluth a folk music town, or a hotbed of alternative rock? We have no idea, but straddling those genres is Trampled By Turtles—a band loosely related to a bluegrass quartet, boasting banjo and bad attitude. They’ll rip into a Bill Monroe classic one moment, and follow it up with a meandering Radiohead reverie. This set of shows celebrates the Turtles’ new album, Red Alert: Trouble Ahead. If this is what Duluth sounds like, then we definitely need to visit more often. 612-332-1775; www.first-avenue.com