It wouldn’t be quite accurate to call First Course, at 56th
and Chicago in south Minneapolis one of the most under-rated restaurants in the
Twin Cities – it’s more like, one of the most ignored. I haven’t seen a review
– or even a passing mention in a restaurant column – in years. That’s a shame,
because for culinary quality and creativity, this little neighborhood bistro
can hold its own against a lot of more celebrated establishments around town.
The level of décor might be a little minimal for some tastes – varnished
plywood takes the place of teak and mahogany veneers, but I actually find the
place quite charming, fake fireplace and all. And prices are certainly
reasonable: most entrees are under $20, with most pastas in the $10-16 range.
You can get a good overview of the eclectic tapas menu by
ordering the antipasti plate ($13.95) –
a mostly Mediterranean medley of cured
pork loin, chorizo, wine salami, Spanish sheep’s milk cheese with
banana-ginger-curry chutney, Humboldt Fog goat’s cheese with boozy cherries,
spiced pecans, marinated artichoke, oven cured tomato, Mojave raisins, and
Arbequina olives. About 10 different pastas are also featured, ranging from a
simple preparation of angel hair pasta with tomato basil sauce ($10.25) to linguini with clams, mussels and shrimp in saffron, white wine and tomato
sauce ($19.95).
The night we visited, chef/owner Travis Metzger was doubling
as waiter, and listening to him describe the nightly specials made it clear
that this was a guy who really knows and cares a lot about food. We started
with a couple of those nightly specials – field greens and roasted beets with
chopped walnuts, dressed in walnut oil with a pumpkin-infused goat cheese
($7.95), and a small tapas plate of grilled polenta, topped with a savory duck confit
($4.)
I was a little skeptical about ordering the seafood
stew ($19.50) – with no lobster on the menu, it stood to reason that the
promised lobster broth was probably the kind of soup base that comes from the
factory in a big plastic tub, loaded with salt and MSG. I still have no idea
where the soup stock comes from, but this stew was delicious: shrimp, mussels,
clams and calamari in a light but intensely flavorful broth, spiked with just
enough chipotle pepper to command your attention.
Carol opted for the Butternut squash ravioli with a brandy-gorgonzola cream sauce ($14.95), which was rich, but not as heavy as the
usual Alfredo, and served with a colorful topping of julienned vegetables.
There wasn’t really much room for dessert, but we ordered the tapas plate of
Humboldt Fog and boozy cherries for dessert, followed by a plate of homemade
truffles spiked with kirsch
There are lots of other dishes I would like to try, ranging
from the pappardelle with lamb ragu made from leg of lamb braised in red wine with
rosemary ($15.50), to the tilapia in a cornmeal crust, served over mixed greens
with roasted shiitakes, oven-dried tomatoes, goat cheese and crispy shoestring
potato ($19.95).
I’ll be back soon – most likely on a Tuesday, when every
bottle and every glass of wine are half price. That knocks the price of a
bottle of Rondel Cava, a Spanish sparkling wine, down to $9 a bottle, and a
glass of Avalon Cabernet goes for $4.25 instead of $8.50. “The idea behind
that,” says Metzger,”was to get people to drink the Stag’s Leap Cabernet, by
knocking the price down to $60 from $120, but what has ended up happening is that
people order the $20 bottle of wine for $10 – but that’s fine too.”
On Friday nights, First Course features live music, ranging
from flamenco guitar to jazz sax,
starting around 7:30 p.m. On other nights, the soundtrack is a
mellow blend of mostly jazz and blues.
Open 5 to 9 p.m.
weeknights, 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 5607 S Chicago Ave.
S., Minneapolis; 612-825-6900.
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The Dakota is serious about its music. Sure, they bring us new and upcoming acts, but mostly they serve up long-time masters. Tonight is no exception. With three decades of performances, over twenty solo albums, hundreds of singles and albums, and two Grammy Awards to his credit, Dr. John has secured his place in American music history. Catch a taste of funky boogie-woogie blues and R&B tonight (through Wednesday) as he lifts the voice of New Orleans across the Twin Cities, proving, as always, New Orleans is alive and well despite its troubles.
In the past 50 years
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