Author: Christy DeSmith

  • You’re My Favorite Kind of Pretty

    Recent conversations with Jon Ferguson,
    that rising star of the local theater scene, revealed a topical theme:
    The man is headlong in love. Since he and his partner, performer Megan Odell of Live Action Set,
    recently welcomed a baby boy into the world, Ferguson—formerly an
    itinerant, couch-surfing bachelor—finds himself an unlikely inhabitant
    of a state of domestic bliss. His latest show, fittingly, explores the
    gradations of romantic relationships: from love at first sight to (with
    any luck) a committed coupling. A cast of fine, crush-worthy
    collaborators lent their own romantic histories to the project,
    including Jennifer Davis,
    whose vivid paintings Ferguson finds distinctly feminine and beautiful,
    and Sara Richardson, a stellar (and dismayingly under-used) performer
    who somehow manages to be both physically lovely and goofy as all
    get-out.

    Southern Theater, 612-340-1725.

  • Eurydice

    Sarah Ruhl, Sarah Ruhl, Sarah Ruhl. We’ve been writing up, and seeing,
    our fill of plays by this hotshot. Still, we’d be fools not to note the
    occasion of the regional premiere of Eurydice, the play that made Ruhl
    a certified superstar (thanks to last summer’s extended Off-Broadway
    run). This production marks Ten Thousand Things’ first tangle with the
    playwright, and their choice of this spirited, fairly modern take on
    the myth of Orpheus and Eurydice (retold from the young woman’s
    perspective) should fit nicely with the company’s visually spare yet
    emotionally direct aesthetic—something it more often applies to
    Shakespeare and the ancient Greek playwrights. Among a strong, all-star
    cast, the key players include Sonja Parks, a local actress who performs
    with remarkable force in the title role, and the stately and
    heavens-to-Betsy-he’s-handsome Steve Hendrickson as Eurydice’s father.

    Ten Thousand Things at Open Book and The Minnesota Opera Center, 612-203-9502.

  • Framing Suzan-Lori Parks: Directing Challenges and Discoveries

    Things could get interesting when the English and Theater departments at the U of M embark on a joint investigation of Suzan-Lori Parks’s oeuvre. This Pulitzer- and MacArthur Genius Grant-winning playwright boasts a body of work that’s rich in poetics and historic awareness, yet audacious enough to confront issues of emotional brutality head-on. (In other words, beware of over-intellectualizing.) The series kicks off when Frank Theatre, the local company with the most Parks plays under its belt, excerpts its productions of The America Play, Venus, and Fucking A (Rarig Center, February 26). Frank’s founder and artistic director, Wendy Knox, also joins a panel of experts to discuss what it’s like to direct Parks’s plays (Rarig Center, March 4); and the series culminates with Parks in the flesh at Ted Mann Concert Hall on March 26, where she will lecture, play her guitar, and “show her ass,” as she likes to (metaphorically) put it.

    University of Minnesota, 612-626-1528. 

  • Ways to Behold and Sentry

    One of the most literate, thoughtful choreographers in town, Stuart Pimsler presents a double bill of protest art late in the month. Ways to Behold, a world premiere with accompaniment by spoken-word artist Tiyo Siyolo, juxtaposes the realities of a U.S.-initiated—yet somehow invisible—war overseas with the comforts of daily life on our own shores. Sentry is a reprise from the Reagan era; it was created during Pimsler’s days in New York City, when he was active with Artists Against Nuclear Madness. Set to a medley of ’60s protest songs, the piece is based in part on military orders that one of Pimsler’s students smuggled out of the Air Force Academy.

    Ritz Theater, 345 13th Ave. N.E., Minneapolis; 612-436-1129.

  • Creep Show Couture

    “Do you ladies sew?” asked Rae Lundquist, a five-foot, fifty-something with a confident manner and long, silvering brown hair falling past her waist. Lundquist serves as costume director of MarsCon, a sci-fi convention that celebrates its tenth anniversary this month. As part of her duties, she had organized an educational field trip for her fellow costumiers. Interested parties were instructed to gather at the top deck of the Bloomington Holiday Inn Select parking ramp on the Sunday morning following last November’s MarsCon Masquerade Ball. From there, Lundquist (a.k.a. The Dreamstitcher) would lead a caravan twenty-five miles north. “I’ll show you the real place to shop in the Twin Cities,” she continued, leaning into the assembled (one man, three women) with a map. “The Guthrie shops there; Theatre in the Round shops there … A few years ago we found some brick-red wool gabardine there—perfect for Starfleet costumes!”

    A total of five cars set forth on the expedition. After navigating a maze of freeway, frontage road, and office complexes, everyone arrived safely at their destination: an ugly beige warehouse in Brooklyn Park with red block lettering that read: SR HAR IS (the sign was missing its second R). Arriving ten minutes in advance of the store’s noon opening, the costumiers joined a small crowd of mothers and young children who’d left the warmth of their minivans to wait near the front door. Lundquist, who’d shown up wearing black jeans, a floor-length denim trench coat, and a T-shirt advertising Serenity, the 2005 space-western flick, took the opportunity to socialize. Overhearing what a young mother had come in search of, she was her usual helpful self: “Corduroy—that’s aisles seventeen and eighteen.”

    Once inside, Lundquist, obviously a regular, loitered near the cash registers for about twenty minutes. A young woman with long black hair and a powdered white face approached with her copy of Hellsing, a manga series concerning zombies, werewolves, and ghouls. Opening to a bookmarked page, she revealed her costume concept—a female character in a tight black bodysuit with all manner of bandaging (think fashionable straitjacket). The young woman indicated she was leaning toward pleather. Lundquist was quick to counter: “You’re going to die in pleather!” she said, and directed the woman to the store’s twill selection, in aisles nineteen and twenty.

    Another costumier—a nice fellow with salt-and-pepper hair—said he planned to construct a Fellowship cloak, the costume popularized by Lord of the Rings. Lundquist suggested “a lightweight, almost see-through wool,” which, she said, might be found in or about aisle fifteen.

    After a while, the crew ambled to a far, back corner of the store. Once there, Lundquist seized upon a bolt of wool/alpaca. “I can see hobbit cloaks out of that,” she offered, pinching the fabric and then rubbing it with her fingers. “But it’s still a little rough.”

    As the party perused the floor-to-ceiling selection, Lundquist camped out near an end-cap and, from there, dispensed additional nuggets of wisdom: “You know what works well for armor slats?” she said, seemingly for the benefit of the male costumier. “Venetian blinds!” For the young woman, Lundquist had a suggestion for achieving that spiky, gravity-defying Pokémon-style hair: “Glue.”

    On a typical Sunday morning, SR Harris offers outsiders a microcosmic peek inside the local rag trade: The theatrical costume designers have come to look for billowing satins and acetates, fashion designers for jersey, and Hmong families for bargain remnants. Lundquist ran into three women from the Northwest Company Fur Post in Pine City (she costumes historic reenactments on the side). Joy Teiken, the woman behind the Minneapolis-based Joynoëlle line of couture, gave a wink while strutting past. Later, when the high-fashion designer of custom menswear Russell Bourrienne was introduced to Lundquist, she responded with her usual zeal: “Oh, I should send my son your way! He’s hard to fit.”

    Lundquist then proceeded to offer an impassioned discourse on the youngest generation of costumiers (usually anime enthusiasts) who have taken up sewing. Upon hearing this, Bourrienne’s eyes widened. “Yes, it’s very different,” he said nasally, in between titters.

    As the costumiers finished their shopping, Lundquist killed time by sharing a series of observations on the more technical aspects of her job; for example: “Anime people love zippers” and “That’s the one thing I can’t stand about superheroes—they have no pockets!” Soon enough, the male costumier reappeared with that perfect bolt of translucent gray linen. The Goth woman checked back shortly thereafter. Her cart was heaped with notions and black fabric but, before she was through, she had one more important question. “Is this good thread?” she asked, proffering a spool. (After all, that labyrinthine costume of hers would require serious reinforcements.) Lundquist gave it a yank and then, handing it back, pronounced, “Yeah, that’s buttonhole thread.”

  • Fashioning a Movement

    To highlight our semi-annual selection of new fashion, we turned to a population that—let’s face it, unfair as it seems—looks delightful no matter what they’re wearing. Our models are four dance students at the University of Minnesota and their choreographer (who moonlights as The Rake’s stylist); we captured them during a rehearsal at the Barbara Barker Center for Dance on the Minneapolis campus. For the occasion, they donned an array of relaxed sheaths, stretch cotton pieces, and free-flowing mesh, plus splashes of bright prints—all trends to look forward to for the warm season.

    Spring Ahead

    Dancers at the University of Minnesota jump-start the season by flaunting all manner of fluid, warm-weather fashions, from high-waisted shorts and rompers to flirty strapless dresses.

    Luke Olson-Elm, a senior-year dance major, wears a key look for men: the shockingly bright necktie.

    Shirt by Tailorbyrd,
    $98.50 at Hubert White.
    Tie by Robert Halbott,
    $98 at Hubert White.
    Pants, dancer’s own.

     

    Perfect Balance

    Our sharply dressed dancers stand in formation, from left to right:
    choreographer/stylist Janine Ersfeld, Luke Olson-Elm, junior-year dance majors Julia Winkels and Yui Kanzawa, and senior-year English major/dance minor Teresa Tjepkes.

    On Ersfeld:
    Dress by Sweat Pea,
    $106 at Karma.
    Golden sash,
    stylist’s own.

    On Winkels:
    Tube top, stylist’s own.
    Shorts by House of Henry, $62 at Picky Girl.
    Cross necklace by
    Le Glitz, $54 at Picky Girl.

    On Kanzawa:
    Romper by Covet,
    $160 at Picky Girl.
    Canvas and leather belt by Le Glitz,
    $48 at Picky Girl.
    Jeweled velvet headband by Jane Tran, $36 at Karma.

    On Tjepkes:
    Dress by KAS Design, $69 (on clearance)
    at Karma.
    Turquoise necklace
    by Princess Mali,
    $325 at Karma.

     

    A Bold Move

    Tjepkes plays up the pink in a chic mesh top that’s plenty comfy to boot.

    Shirt by Weston Wear, $98 at Karma.
    Cross necklace by Le Glitz,
    $54 at Picky Girl.

    Flying Colors

    Ersfeld pairs two of the season’s essential trends: bold, floral prints and vibrant orange.

    Tube top and silk skirt, stylist’s own.
    Leather belt by Bennie and Olive,
    $58 at Karma.

     

    Worn With Grace

    Winkels shows off an ideal evening look for spring: a roomy silk sheath with gorgeous tailoring.

    Silk dress by Kenzie,
    $88 at Picky Girl.
    Earrings by Jill Smith,
    $32 at Karma.
    Indian jeweled bangles,
    $5 each at Karma.

     

    A Strapless Number

    Kanzawa models a bouncy cotton dress with all manner of lovely gathering.

    Dress by Miss Me, $62 at Karma.

     

    Rake Appeal Fashion
    Spring 2008

    Clothing and accessories provided by:

    Karma, 841 Grand Ave., St. Paul; 651-291-1997;

    Picky Girl, 1326 Grand Ave., St. Paul; 651-698-4107;

    Hubert White, 747 Nicollet Mall, Minneapolis; 612-339-9200;

    Concept, choreography, production, and styling by Janine Ersfeld

    Photography and videography by Marco Baca

    Art direction by Vangie Johnson

    Editorial by Christy DeSmith

    Hair and makeup by Lauren Spear
    (llspear@hotmail.com; 612-209-6534)

    Thanks to Anne Parr for production assistance.

    View a video of the quintet in a custom-choreographed performance designed to show off their garb.

  • Off to Mexico

    Sick of winter much? Can you bear another cold day of having
    to bulk up? Me either! That’s why I’m checking out for Mexico, yo. Feast
    your eyes on this: the adorable, but nonetheless scanty, romper I procured for
    the occasion (as modeled by the much thinner-than-me office floor).

     

    The romper is by Michele Henry, originator of House of Henry
    line (check the website if you care to see the above on an actual person). Here’s another of her warm-weather rompers, which is made from the same stretch
    cotton and modeled by a lovely size-eight dress form.

     

    I’ll mark my return in early March with coverage of three
    local fashion shows:

    MARCH 8: A TWOFER
    Methinks it’s marginally interesting that the all-new
    Envision fashion show, which promises to parade looks from the Cliché and Local
    Motion boutiques across the IDS Center’s fiftieth floor, is going head to head
    with the stalwart DIVA MN show. Among the DIVA designers, by the
    way, will be Ms. Henry, mastermind of the rompers above.

    MARCH 9: BREAK-THE-BANK BEAUTIES
    The brand-new "Runway Luxury" show will feature unattainable
    clothes by Monique Lhuillier (whose only local connection, really, is that she
    keeps an Edina
    boutique) and Joynoëlle (a certified Twin Citian) at the soon-to-open Ivy boutique
    hotel.

    In the meanwhile, stay reasonably warm, will you?

  • Dunking the Fishtank

    Fishtank: n. a diffuse, silent comedy ostensibly done in the
    spirit of Buster Keaton and Jacques Tati. I couldn’t help but make comparisons
    to Play Time, my favorite Tati flick (I just re-watched the restaurant scene
    last week). This was Tati’s all-out screed on modernist architecture, if you’ll
    recall. In my mind, the physical acting is less funny than the extremist
    perspectives of the filmmaker. Tati goes to great, comic lengths (and toes the
    line of tedium) to illustrate his disdain for contemporary architecture and its
    sullying effect on the Parisian streetscape. Now, to make my point here: I’m
    not the sort of theatergoer who demands a message, or even a point, from the shows
    I see. Nor do I require a cohesive narrative arc (although I do happen to
    believe that story is inherent to the best art). However, this show is
    something else–lacking in both perspective and narrative.

    The basic premise: examining the little obstacles and comedies
    in our mundane, everyday existences. But there were only two instances in which I,
    as an audience member, recognized something in the situations: one performer (Nathan
    Keepers) encountered a few problems when passing through an airport metal detector,
    which was played to great comic effect and ended up being the show’s highlight;
    another performer (Dominique Serrand) got stuck on the phone in voice mail hell.
    Man, I’ve been there. But other than that, the situations were too obscured to breed
    familiarity–or, for that matter, any emotional investment in these characters.
    And it’s pretty, damn boring to watch a show that’s inhabited by people you
    could give a rat’s ass about.

    It’s got to be said: Jeune Lune has a history of omitting the
    playwright from its creative process. In fact, I believe their adaptations of
    operas and classic texts have succeeded because of the built-in storylines.
    Plus, the company demonstrates reverence for their preferred dead
    scribes (Shakespeare, Molière). But their "ensemble-created" work, in my
    opinion, has often been diffuse, disjointed, lacking in any sort of thread, too pleased with itself, and therefore emotionally
    isolating (bear in mind here: I wasn’t around for the benchmarking Yang Zen
    Froggs
    ).

    I "get" the clown thing. But the key to succeeding, as a
    clown, has always been to cultivate an alliance between audience and performer.
    In other words: The two of us ought to be in on this joke together. For
    whatever reason, I wasn’t invited to attend this joke. In fact, by the end of
    the night, the only thing that was clear to me about these characters was this:
    They’re awfully enamored of their own cuteness.

    So, the gloves are off. But before I dispense with my final criticism,
    I suppose I ought to make the disclosure I always make when writing about Jeune
    Lune: I used to work there, in administration. I have no lingering
    hostilities. I liked the job. Many of my most memorable theater-going
    experiences were at Jeune Lune. I want to see this company succeed. But of
    course, I was sad to see some of my favorite people (to say nothing of their
    artistries) leave the company, in 2006.

    My final point on Fishtank: Jennifer Baldwin Peden’s
    character–the sole woman (it felt somewhat like watching the Smurfs)–speaks baby-talk. Also, she seemed to be costumed as a Japanese schoolgirl. So,
    obviously, there’s a huge difference between finding one’s inner idiot/clown and
    infantilizing the sole female character. For many women, I’m afraid, there’s
    nothing funny about watching a grown woman behave and be treated as a precious, little six-year-old.

  • Wilson’s: Loss of jobs and my junior-high jacket

    When was the last time you entered a Wilson’s? For me, it’s been a while. But the
    trip that’s forever etched in my memory goes all the way back to junior high.
    My sister had just scored a cool Michael Jackson Thriller-style red
    windbreaker. Not wanting to be outdone, I commenced to scour the shopping mall for my own status jacket.
    Eventually I settled on a black suede bomber from Wilson’s that had a lil’ feminine flourish: a
    tiny puff at each shoulder (the closest approximation of a Juliet sleeve that
    can be done in buckskin, mind you). All that remained was begging poor mom to shell
    for the modest pricetag, which she happily did. "You’ll have this coat for a long
    while," is what she said, the foolish thing.

     

    Of course, subsequent visits to the store, years and years later, proved
    disappointing. But rather than trash this local "heritage" retailer (the Strib
    sez
    it’s been around since 1899), I’ll merely point out that it failed to
    fulfill our expectations for such businesses. Consider the example of, say, Duluth
    Pack
    , another centenarian company (sine 1882) that, rather than get greedy and
    try to mass-market its products, concentrated on steadily crafting their
    simple, quality line of luggage, sacks, and bags–all of which are united by a
    singular rough-hewn aesthetic. Meanwhile, Wilson’s
    knocked off every which department-store trend in leather coats and
    accessories. Plus, I noticed they use really shitty buttons. "Disposable" is
    how I later came to regard my sole Wilson’s
    possession, and I don’t suppose that’s an enviable position for a leather
    jacket.

    It’s not surprising, then, that the business is starting to
    tank. Still, it’s always a shame when jobs are lost–especially Minnesota jobs!

  • Exclusive Sneak Peek of Voltage 08

    Unbeknownst to most folks, there was a public preview of the
    Voltage ’08 fashions at last night’s 10,000 Arts Party. Mostly I spent the
    evening being a bugaboo to the models backstage. (Don’t they look irritated?) But I also managed to take
    these snapshots of the looks:

     

    My favorite dress of the night was this casual number
    (above) by Annie Larsen. This piece is very youthful, which is in accordance
    with Larsen’s previous work. However, what truly captured my heart was the defined
    waistline. And that’s no belt, my dears. It’s stitched right into the dress. This,
    I think, makes it friendlier for wearers who are getting up there in years …

     

    The above dress is by Amanda Christine, who seems to be
    gaining more and more momentum as well as a fan base. You can buy her clothes
    at Cliché, mind you.

     

    This ensemble seemed fairly characteristic of designer Laura
    Fulk
    –what with the asymmetrical cuts and juxtaposition of fabrics. However, I found
    it to be much more feminine than her previous work, probably because of the
    transparent top and the fur shrug.

     

    George Moskal is genius. It’s as if he innately knows how to
    flatter the female form. Here’s something I recently learned (through the
    grapevine) about him: His day job is designing Liz Lange maternity clothes for Target.
    Suddenly I see why the tent dresses jump to me from the clearance
    racks.

     

    And finally, here’s what’s new from Katherine Gerdes, who is
    still up to her old tricks as far as draping goes. However, she’s added a new
    twist, as you see here: hand dying the jersey fabrics.