Tag: Thanksgiving

  • Sursum Corda: Give Thanks

    I’d say it’s a decent idea, Thanksgiving, even if it’s one of those old, decent ideas that means almost nothing anymore. Still, it does strike me as a worthwhile thing, the notion of taking time out of your life to give thanks for whatever the hell you have to give thanks for. And surely you have something to be thankful for –come on, pull your face away from that bong for a moment and think about it.

    I know I do. A few for instances:

    Microwave popcorn.

    Tabasco sauce.

    Canned chili.

    Willie Nelson.

    Cold beverages.

    Dune buggies.

    The Colonel’s blend of special spices.

    The grand-fetuses –if I’d known the little bastards were going to be so much fun I’d have had them first.

    The troops, which I nonetheless feel strongly should be spending the holidays with their families at home.

    Zigaboo Modeliste.

    Al Jackson, Jr.

    Air hockey.

    Paper boys, even –or perhaps especially– if they’re middle-aged men working three jobs just trying to get by.

    Grasshoppers.

    Formaldehyde.

    Mutterers.

    Television evangelists.

    A good cat mystery.

    Robert Goulet.

    Vespers.

    U-turns.

    Pre-history.

    Mason jars.

    The down-on-his-luck hippie magician.

    The spinster librarian.

    The smooth Lothario.

    This sneaking suspicion.

    This magic moment.

    That tragedy narrowly averted.

    Nose-diving birds.

    Twizzlers.

    Dumplings.

    Nancy and Sluggo.

    The great hearts gone, and those still beating.

    The ink I still, astonishingly, feel compelled to use.

    Unexpected eruptions of pleasure and recognition.

    Mercy.

    This life, what it helplessly is, and what it yet could be.

  • The Giving Guest

    Tradition hasn’t rooted so firmly in my kitchen that I cook the Thanksgiving meal every year. Sometimes I am a guest at the feast, like the mjority of people, an eater. It’s a beautiful thing, for a cook to be cooked for, and I never take that invitation lightly.

    It should be one of the first rules of life that you never show up to a feast empty-handed, and I’m not talking about pot-luck. A little gift, a little prize, a little special something that will make the host smile … it’s a small price for a full belly.

    That being said here are some peccadilloes to avoid:

    I know this will sound surprising, but don’t bring flowers. The hostess will have to find a vase and a location for your flowers, taking her away from her duties. And even if they have a pleasant odor, they’ll take away from the smell of the food.

    Don’t bring a cookbook. Nothing says "Hey, time to learn something new!" to a harried cook more than that.

    Dont’ you dare bring a surprise dish: "I brought along my favorite mayonnaise pizza dish just to help out!" This person should be banned for life.

    And never, ever, ever this.

    So what’s a stylish and gracious guest to do? Simply, be thoughtful:

    A bottle of wine is classic and easy, but make it a bottle that is meant for another day. In fact, make it a kick-ass port with a tag that reads: Open when we’re all gone.

    A ribbon-tied pair of dish washing gloves, with your name inked on them.

    Chicken stock … just in case.

    Onion goggles. Your contribution to a tears-free family feast!

    A game to occupy the kids at the Kids Table, whether you’re still sitting there or not.

    Chocolate turkeys. Who doesn’t love biting the waddle off a chocolate turkey?

    A great loaf of bread and jar of mayo for the first post-meal-everyone’s-gone-late-night turkey sandwich.

    Breakfast in a clean kitchen: a bag of pre-ground coffee, scones, and lemon curd.

    Fine! You can bring a pie, dammit. But make sure it’s flippin’ great and not something you picked up at Costco or the gas station.

    The All Time Best Gift: an invitation to dinner at your house.

  • T-Day Seven Days Out: The Bird

    The bird is the word.

    We used to go to my aunt’s house in North Oaks for Thanksgiving. I clearly remember her perched on a chair next to the oven, heater and scotch in one hand, turkey baster in the other as she dutifully doused the bird every five minutes. From that chair she barked orders to the rest of the family to execute the remainder of the meal, I was in charge of rolling butter into pretty balls. Others can mash the potatoes or slice the beets, but she couldn’t, wouldn’t leave her post or her mission, all in the name of moisture.

    A dry turkey is a sin. You don’t build an entire feast around one main protein only to realize you’ve served a chew-toy. I can’t seem to get my mother-in-law to see that you don’t need to start cooking the bird at 6am for a 4pm dinner. Gravy needn’t be the real main course, there is another way.

    In the past few years, it’s been all about the brine. Brining a turkey involves soaking the thawed bird in a salt and herb solution. The theory is that the meat absorbs the flavorful solution and the proteins, when heated, lock the moisture inside. Although it does change the texture slightly, the resulting meat is ultra-moist, even when slightly overcooked.

    Change the flavor of your brine with the addition of cider or different herbs, just don’t oversalt. The first time I made my own brine, my turkey tasted like ham. There are a ton of good brines on the market, Golden Fig’s locally made brine mix is one of the best.

    If your bird is frozen, start thawing it in the fridge on Monday. By Tuesday, you should mix your brine solution and let it sit overnight. If you don’t have a big enough pot or bucket, don’t worry, there are plenty of giant bags meant for brining. I don’t even need to say that you shouldn’t use a scented garbage bag, do I? Get the bird into the solution by Wednesday and let it soak until you get it ready for the oven.

    I guarantee that any old-timers who haven’t had a brined bird will flip over the juiciness.

    Now for the ultimate question: to baste or not to baste? I’ve never basted a brined bird, and have yet to be disappointed. I have a chef friend that laughs at the basters, swearing that they only thing you have to do is slow-roast the bird at a low temp wrapped in parchment paper and foil, followed with a turn under high heat to add the crispiness.

    I’m sure I could have explained this all in detail to my aunt, but I fear not even a lecture from the turkey himself could have moved her from her perch.

  • T-Day: Eight Days Out

    It’s go time.

    It’s the opening of Feast Season, are you ready? This is the week that my head starts spinning with potato options and I rip through the internet trying to find the cranberry recipe that will outshine last year’s. Thank goodness one of my kitchen walls is made of slate, because it is now chalked over with lists of ingredients crossed with possible permutations in a mad Kaczynski-esque fashion.

    While the lead-up may be crazed and insane, the feast must be about balance. I have 15 or so coming for dinner, some are food-driven (like me) and some aren’t. While I would love to break the mold on every dish, creating an entirely new feast each year, that wouldn’t be right. That wouldn’t serve my eaters very well. There are people coming whose food agenda is focused simply on the turkey and my husband’s creamed corn, they just agree to suffer through whatever cranberry concoction I serve.

    My ulimate goal is to create a spread from which you can assemble the perfect plate, however that suits you. Ignore the brussel sprouts, that’s fine, there are two kinds of potatoes. I’d love all to know the glory of ginger glazed carrots, but if not, there’s more room for pumpkin pie.

    Corny as it sounds, I am thankful for the challenge. It’s my industry background, only under pressure do I truly thrive. This is a week in which all cylinders are firing and I could yap endlessly about yams.

    So, tomorrow it’s turkey talk: to brine or not to brine.

     

     

  • Party Doll

    “Lincoln’s deathbed physician said he had the body of a Moses. What do I look like, Bill?”

    The doctor, who had just finished examining my father, dropped the covers. He said, “You can’t put off that quadruple forever.”

    “Isn’t that where you take strips from my ass and sew them to my heart? You keep chopping bits off me, Bill. Christ, what am I going to have left, one nut and my elbow?”

    The doctor smiled coldly and put his hat on. “Happy Thanksgiving,” he said, and left.

    The sick room, the whole house, smelled of turkey and onions. Bernard breathed in slowly. “My seventy-first Turkey Day. Whoopy do.” He turned to me, grinning slyly. “Shouldn’t you be in the kitchen helping your mother?”

    “She isn’t my mother,” I said, “she’s your doxy. She can’t be my mother. She’s twenty-eight. I’m twenty-nine. Remember?”

    My father looked at me with interest. “You almost said that as though you minded.”

    My mother, my real mother, is sixty. Her name is Josephine. She is so short that my father, during his affectionate years, used to call her Runtkin. She gardens all the time, wearing rumpsprung corduroys, although when caught up in the excitement of the growing season she’s been known to weed at dawn in her nightie. My mother smells of cool ferny soaps, except on the days when she doses her plants with fish emulsion. She reads for hours every night, mostly Shakespeare. She rarely understood a joke in her life, and my father, who was a stand-up comedian for forty years, said that in the end that was why he divorced her. Actually he was looking for Shirleen, or someone like Shirleen.

    Shirleen is my stepmother. Her bulgy curves spring in and out under shiny fabrics printed with tiger stripes and jungle flowers. She smells of perfume with violent police-blotter names: Assault, Love Jump, Drug Delirium. When my father introduced her to me, secretly he lifted his eyebrows and shrugged a little.

    “What can I do?” he said to me later. “I like it like that.”

    My mother took the divorce quite well, although initially she was confused at being told that their marriage was terrible. “I thought it was rather nice,” she told me hesitatingly, in her gentle voice. I knew what she meant. She thought it was nice because to her, the marriage included everything she cared about. First of all there was me, Rochelle. I’m a cartoonist, sometimes even referred to in national publications as “rising.” She also included the big garden, the prize legumes with their roots going clear to China. Josephine counted the kitchen, and every meal she and Bernard had shared, from the wedding banquet crown roast and pink Lady Baltimore cake to the driest heel of rye, old maids in the popcorn pot. She’d thought the marriage had music. She would always listen to the Metropolitan Opera broadcast Saturday afternoons. My father liked jazz, and Coleman Hawkins would cool up the living room around midnight. My mother counted everything, and that is where she went wrong. She mistook her life for her marriage. People do this, but it’s the surest way I know to get your face stepped on.

    “Hey,” I said now to Bernard, craftily shifting ground. “Did I show you the cartoon New York Magazine bought?” I reached into my portfolio. “They’re asking me if I’ll do a series on this couple.” I put the drawing in his hand. He studied it silently. The cartoon showed a man and woman in colonial dress. The man was very tall and had my father’s face, with a stupid expression. The woman was very short and looked like my mother. She had her hands on her hips and was saying, “Well, one thing I know for sure, bud. From my heart will grow a red, red rose, and from yours, a briar.”

    Bernard, whose nickname is Bud, looked stone-faced at the cartoon for a long minute. Then he gave his short, harsh laugh. He always laughed this way at my cartoons, grudgingly, as though the laughter had been extorted from him with menaces.

    “Right,” he said, “and from my back will grow the knives you keep planting in it. I sent you to that fancy art school and you got good, good enough to humiliate me nationally. Hell, you’re a gifted little shit. Maybe someday you’ll humiliate me internationally.”

    “It’s what I aim toward,” I said. “But cheer up. Think of it this way. If I’m good, at least you got your money’s worth from the art school.”

    “Oh, did I?” he said, staring at the cartoon in his hand. “Right. What a sweet deal for me.” There was a pause, and then he said, “I’m a little surprised you decided to spend Thanksgiving with the old goat and his doxy.”

    “Mother said she wasn’t going to celebrate Thanksgiving this year.”

    There was a silence, during which we both visualized Thanksgiving the year before. Josephine had been up at dawn, stuffing a turkey the size of a pony and filling the house with bouquets, some in old milk bottles and blue quart jars, and others in Waterford goblets.

    In one instant the memory turned us both furious, short of breath.
    “You blame me,” my father said, “God damn it.”

    “I blame you because you’re to blame. You evicted her—”

    “It was better not to drag it out. Sometimes it’s necessary to be cruel to be kind—”

    “This whole concept of necessary cruelty really fascinates me. Take this year.” I spoke in a soft, innocent voice, as though I couldn’t taste smoking chunks of his guilty heart. “When you half-killed Mom by shoving her out of her own home, it was really all for her own good. Silly old Mom, if only she’d known.”

    “That apartment is a palace, she’s living like a queen, I’m paying a fucking fortune—” By this time he was yelling, climbing out of bed and waving his cane. I knew he wouldn’t hit me, he never had. “You’re lying,” he shouted, “you’re lying like a rug,” and as I dodged the cane without effort, I studied the eggplant-purple of his face. I always could jump-start the old man into near insanity. On the other hand, I didn’t want him to drop dead on me. I held my hand up in a truce. Gasping, he collapsed back on his pillow. For a full minute there was no sound in the room except my father mastering his breath. He made no attempt whatever to hide his terribly working face. His eyes were fixed on me, and neither of us blinked. Finally he spoke.

    “Go ahead, pour it out, swill it all over me,” he assumed a weary burlesque of my face and tone, a sniveling, snot-nosed crybaby, “how I faaiii-iled you and faaiii-iled your mother and flushed her whole life down the toilet. Well, you know what? Things are tough all around. Personally, I like having a wife who doesn’t wander around outside in her underwear, talking to herself—”

    “Your property has a wall around it, nobody saw her! She was wearing that flannel granny gown, it covers her from head to toe, and she was reciting sonnets from Shakespeare—”

    “Well, whatever,” he said. “It gave me the creeps. Then there was always the goddamned second cousin hanging around. Who ever asked him? I never did.”

    “Edward has been her best friend all her life,” I said.

    “Jesus Christ, what could be more pathetic than that? The truth is, I’m happy now, and she could be happy if she tried. She refuses.”

    I said, “You talk about her as if she’s some old cow who won’t let her milk down.”

    He smiled slightly and spread his hands, as though to say, I wouldn’t have put it quite that way, but …

  • Time Was: Recriminations

    Right here where we’re standing used to be a proper god-damned street before those sons of bitches down in the state capital decided to run the interstate highway through the godforsaken middle of nowhere forty miles south of here.

    Used to be if you wanted to drive across the country up this way you had to go right through town, straight down this very street. Cars and trucks were rolling through here all day and all night, and up and down the entire length of the town there were thriving businesses. Time was this town had one of the biggest grocery stores in the northeast corner of the state. We had grain elevators at both ends of town, a nice old movie theater, and passenger train service to the east, west, and south.

    We lost the damn railroad even before the interstate came along and put the final bullet in our heads.

    This here is the godforsaken middle of nowhere now. They killed off all the little towns around us first, and when all those people who used to come in from all over to do their shopping pulled up stakes we didn’t have a prayer or a pot to piss in. We absolutely did not have a fucking prayer. Once they opened the interstate to traffic the high school didn’t last five years.

    Now? Well, shit, you can see for yourself what’s left of the place. We’re just another scrubbed-out third world village in what used to be America.

    You know anybody who wants to buy a sorry-ass little town?

    (Laughs)

    Hey, you have a happy Thanksgiving. When you close your eyes and fold your hands be sure to tell God you’re thankful you don’t live here.

     

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  • I’m Crantastic! Thanks for Asking!

    Everyone has a Great Aunt Tootie they haul out for the holidays. She sits in the corner calling everyone by the wrong name and talking about the turkey she had back in ’29 that was really made out of dirt. Someone thought it was a great idea to bring her, but now nobody knows what to do with her. She sits at the holiday table and you wonder how she’s related to you, and why she only comes out every ten months or so. At odd intervals, she may laugh loudly or simply stare at the table, eyes glazing over. But she’s not crazy; she’s just communing with her kindred spirits—the cranberries.

    If you’re going to have your spotlight dance only twice a year, it may as well be during the two biggest feasts of Eating Season: Thanksgiving and Christmas. Sad thing is, most people put cranberries on their holiday table only because they think they have to: It’s their duty, just like picking up Aunt Tootie at the home. True, there are fans of the cran, those who happily pass the bowl after taking a big spoonful of gelatinous crimson tartness. But the majority of people won’t be fighting for the cranberry leftovers or making a turkey and cranberry sandwich the next day. And it’s a shame, because two appearances a year are not enough for the wonderful cranberry. Its ability to help you stave off a nasty urinary tract infection alone makes it worthy of yearlong celebration!

    Wisconsin is known for cheese and beer. Most people miss the fact that Wisconsin produces more than half of the country’s cranberry crop. Last year’s harvest yielded more than three million barrels of fruit. To know the true greatness of the berry, you should start in a bog.

    Cranberries are native to North America. American Indians traditionally ate them fresh, mashed, and ground with cornmeal into breads. Cranberry poultices were used to draw poisons from arrow wounds, and juices were used to dye cloth a vibrant red. Different tribes had different names for the versatile berry, but it was the Pilgrims who first likened the blossom to a crane, referring to them as “crane berries.”

    Thanks to the glaciers of the Ice Age, the northern part of the U.S. is ideal for growing the cranberry. The cranberry is a wetland fruit, growing on trailing vines that thrive in the natural bogs that evolved from deposits left by glaciers. These wetlands are surrounded by dazzling support lands that, through a maze of ditches, dikes, dams, and reservoirs, ensure an adequate water supply and provide a natural refuge for wildlife such as bald eagles, sandhill cranes, trumpeter swans, ospreys, and wolves.

    The season begins in winter, when the farmers flood the bogs—which freeze and insulate the vines. The bogs drain with the spring thaw, the vines blossom, and by September the tiny green nodes have become robust red cranberries. This is when the magic happens. Two methods are used to gather the berries, depending on their destiny. Wet-harvested berries are usually processed, and dry-harvested berries are used as fresh fruit. Both methods are based on two of the coolest properties of cranberries: 1) they float, and 2) they bounce.

    The dry harvest involves mechanical pickers that comb through the vines. The harvested berries are then bagged from a conveyor belt and sent to receiving stations, where they’re screened and graded on color and bounce. (Soft berries don’t.) The method was derived from an old practice of rolling a load of berries down a flight of stairs. The ripe ones would bounce down; the duds would sit listless.

    The wet harvest is something to behold. The bogs are flooded and the berries loosened from the vines. As they float on the surface, they are gently corralled, almost herded toward the conveyor belt and into waiting trucks. On an early October afternoon, with a crisp, blue sky overhead, the pools look like a sea of floating fire.

    Where would your Cosmopolitan be without cranberry juice? Certainly not in the pink. The tart little berry contains antioxidants that are believed to combat heart disease, cancer, and certain bacterial infections. The berries can be frozen or dried, and they keep for up to a year. Try using them as “rocks” in your Stoli Cranberi. Other ways to celebrate cranberries throughout the year: Grab a tantalizing white chocolate and cranberry muffin at Taste of Scandinavia, or indulge in Regi’s Cranberry jams, which often incorporate interesting twists like jalapeños. Or why not just play around with them? Sautéed, glazed, candied, dried, tossed in cakes or muffins, added to ciders, stuffed in a chicken… Go crazy.