Woody Allen’s new bi-coastal comedy (take a guess at which big city curries his favor) concerns a tired and temperamental filmmaker who’s on the verge of a big comeback until chronic neuroses, friction with his ex-wife, and disdain for Hollywood convention render him blind as a bat. Any vague parallels to the writer-director’s real life are less entertaining than the movie itself, which wrings some surprisingly big laughs out of Allen’s usual hapless foibles and connect-the-punchlines pacing. It’s not just that old-fashioned, non-fart-related laughs are back in vogue, either. While the chemistry between protagonist Val Waxman (Allen) and his estranged ex (Tia Leoni) could use a little more kick, both Debra Messing and George Hamilton (she of TV’s Will & Grace, he of infomercials and the infamous perma-tan) offer lots of fun. It’s certainly an improvement over last year’s dire Curse of the Jade Scorpion, though not altogether as charming as 2000’s Small Time Crooks. If Allen’s loving ode to New York City at this year’s Academy Awards felt strangely like a prelude to an honorary Oscar, it’s at least reassuring to see that he’s still earning his own legend with smart, silly, relevant pictures about smart, silly, resilient people who somehow manage to put up with him.
Month: April 2002
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Nine Queens
Forget all the stereotypes about foreign flicks. If there’s a movie that proves high action and subtitles can work, this is it. We’re not talking about shoot-em-up, crash-and-bash action, but brisk high drama along the lines of Hitchcock and Mamet. Nine Queens is scripted in a mix of Argentinian argot and Castillian Spanish–so even our fluent publisher had to resort to sight-reading. But the beautiful cinematography, flawless acting, and the gothic perfection of the plot speak the international language of film. Set in Buenos Aires, this Argentinian blockbuster stars Ricardo Dar’n as a practiced confidence man who stumbles into the deal of a lifetime. But the resulting whodunnit involves so many other competing con artists that the ending doesn’t really stick until the credits have rolled. Uptown Theater, 1320 Lagoon Ave., (612) 825-6006
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Dot Turnipseed Svendson
Wow, what a name! And an excellent painter as well. Even in these bizarre, cut-and-paste times of new-media saturation, we still crave an old fashioned oil painting with four sides and no pretensions. We’re new to Svendson’s work, but we like what we see. Here, she shows some lush landscapes painted at the southern terminus of the mighty Mississippi to complement a show last year that depicted our end of the storied waterway. These are bold, impressionistic pieces, sure to appeal to grumpy old anachronists who believe painting died the day Manet joined the big academy in the sky. Don’t miss the opening, May 10, featuring–what else?–a festive Cajun theme. Shelley Holzemer Gallery, (612) 824-3902
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Catherine Opie
Skyways & Icehouses
Perhaps you’ve noticed that the Walker has been on the bleeding edge of the museum business–yes, it’s a business. And the good people here in the Twin Cities have been happy to serve as a petri dish for a commercial plan that often involves a delicate balance between populism and serious art, juxtaposing an ephemeral lightweight like Claes Oldenburg with an important aesthete like Anselm Kiefer. In other words, fine arts institutions need to attract a broad range of the public (think “Spoonbridge”) in order to get the support they need to do their more important work (think “The Order of Angels”). At this point, they must compete with pop culture for a limited supply of money and attention. This particular show is a wonderful distillation of that conundrum. Opie’s stark photos of skyways and ice houses open up like a matroshka doll to reveal numerous layers of the dichotomy. Photographs are accessible in a populist way, but these images are formalist in the extreme. Skyways are permanent, ice houses are temporary. See what we mean? This is the kind of show we love–simple on the surface, but bursting with the possibility of endless mental gymnastics once you ask, “Why?” WAC, (612) 375-7622
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Kids in the Hall
It’s been eight years since the Canadian sketch comedy troupe The Kids in the Hall wrapped up their wickedly funny eponymous TV show. Like a bad Behind the Music episode, it appeared relations were strained, to the point that Dave Foley (who landed on the highly successful NewsRadio) was barely in the troupe’s 1996 swan-song motion picture Brain Candy. Thankfully, the gods of scatological comedy have smiled upon us, as Foley joins fellow Kids Bruce McCulloch, Kevin McDonald, Mark McKinney, and Scott Thompson for their second comedy tour. The last time they were in town, they didn’t disappoint, even though a week off had left them a little rusty (their fumble recoveries were Carson-esque). It’s going to be “Monty Python at the Hollywood Bowl” for Generation X–don’t miss it. State Theatre, (612) 339-7007
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Father, Forgive Them
Palm Sunday
6:00 a.m.
My clock radio goes off. It is set to a local news station. The spiritual maxim is this: Upon awaking in the morning, give your first thoughts to God. I am beginning to learn that clock radios don’t always enable this practice. Before I can give my thoughts to anything in particular, the radio announcer says, “In the headlines: crisis in the Catholic Church over priest pedophiles.” The announcer sounds very concerned as she reads a script cut and pasted from the Boston Globe and New York Times. She even refers to the Supreme Pontiff, whom she calls “Pope Paul II.” I wonder whether she really meant to refer to Pietro Barbo, who reigned as Pope Paul II from 1464 to 1471. Then again, she is a professional journalist and I am not, so this is best left to her. This is going to be a long week.Monday of Holy Week
It is a beautiful afternoon and I go for a walk. Heading back toward the center of town, the idea of a cup of coffee starts to seem better and better. I pause to look at a cafe, trying to decide whether it is priest-friendly. Most people who work in coffee bars are very friendly and polite in a kind of T-shirted and steel-studded way. But some of them look askance at priests. A young man and his wife come out of the cafe. The man smiles at me and says, “Hello, Father. How are you today?” The answer is fantastic. Why? Because the man was glad to see a priest. Bear in mind that he has no idea what my name is or where I am from or whether I am intelligent or a dolt, kind or mean. He sees the collar and knows I am a priest, and it makes him glad, and this means he has the Faith, and so he smiles and says, “Hello, Father.” Not, “G’way, you pervert” or “Stay away from my kids.” It’s a simple story and I will cut it short because I am getting sentimental, but not before I say, “Hey, New York Times and Boston Globe: Catholics still love their priests.”Tuesday of Holy Week
I find myself thinking of a memory long suppressed. Something that happened 10 years ago, during my first year of priesthood. I was the parochial vicar (assistant priest) at Our Lady of Perpetual Help Church. Around noon, someone phoned the rectory and said, “Father, have you seen the commercial they’re running on Channel Zero?” (I have changed the name of the TV station to protect the guilty, thus showing them more consideration than they showed me and other priests). I turned on the TV and, after a few minutes of soap opera, the commercial came on. It showed the silhouette of a young man wearing a cassock, holding rosary beads, while the announcer said something like, “They care for our souls and hear our deepest secrets, but can they be trusted?” Then the screen showed the front of a church. I recognized it at once. You could even read the letters on the facade: Our Lady of Perpetual Help church. I remember exactly what was said then. “What is the shocking secret that the diocese does not want you to know about its priests?” I felt sick. I had no idea what was going on. The announcer told me I wouldn’t find out until 11 p.m.It was a sad story, of course. An old priest, now retired out of state, had been accused by a long-ago altar boy of having interfered with minors. The private detective trying to dig up dirt had contacted the TV station. Allegedly the diocese had been told about these allegations 30 years previously, but had simply transferred the man from one parish to another. And one of the parishes just happened to be Our Lady of Perpetual Help. And this is why I was being defamed—why we were being defamed.
Naturally, parishioners continued to ring the phone into the afternoon, intent on finding out whether one or both of the parish priests was about to be arrested. This was intolerable. I phoned my attorney. I explained the whole matter. “Are you sure you want to do something about this?” he asked. “It could backfire.” I told him to go ahead. This simply wasn’t right.
Now, some critics of the Church will maintain that Catholic priests hold sway over the faithful simply by the perceived power of the sacred words that only priests can speak. If they believe that, they should look to the awesome powers of the attorney. Armed only with a telephone and some magic legalese, my lawyer went to work. First he identified himself as a member of a sacred order. “Hello, this is Attorney Charlie Michaels. I need to speak to whoever is responsible for the commerical being run to promote your 11 p.m. news program.” This brought about a fairly rapid response. Charlie let loose a lawyerly spell, explaining that he was calling on behalf of his client, that this phone call was an official legal communication, relating that his client was in great distress over the commercial. The TV professional protested that my name had never been mentioned. Charlie explained that damage had already been done, that his client’s reputation had already been caused serious harm. The TV professional said, “Well, we had a meeting and we’ve decided we’re not going to run that commercial any more.” Now Charlie spoke the word of power. “That’s good,” he said. “Because if you run that commercial one more time…you will be sued. Do you understand me?” They did not run the commercial again.
Wednesday of Holy Week
Father H. asks, “Have you seen the latest issue of Time?” The cover screams, “CAN THE CATHOLIC CHURCH SAVE ITSELF?” I note the cover date: April 1.Holy Thursday
A day to commemorate the Last Supper, at which the Lord gave his disciples two commandments: (1) Do this in remembrance of me; (2) wash each other’s feet. Holy Thursday gives priest their identity. For priests, it is a day to renew their commitment, to celebrate together their common identity. The present Pope has written a Holy Thursday letter to priests each year since his election. It is a wonderful thing to be a priest, to be able to say, “The Pope writes me a letter every year.” Of course the letter comes out a few days early, and is released to the press. North American journalists in particular were amazed and annoyed that this year’s Holy Thursday letter did not say what they wanted it to say. They hate that. This gave journalists such as Janet Bagnall of the Montreal Gazette the opportunity to criticize the Pope’s Holy Thursday letter in an article published on Holy Thursday itself. I doubt Bagnall went through the exercise of reading the whole letter. Rather, she was more exercised about what the Pope did not say in it. She complains, “The pope did not pronounce the words sexual abuse or pedophilia. He did not name the evil that traumatized so many innocent young lives.” Now, the Pope did speak of mysterium iniquitatis—the mystery of evil—which you figure embraces pretty much everything that could traumatize innocent young lives. But Bagnall ain’t buyin’. When Vatican official Cardinal Castrillon Hoyos spoke of “today’s culture of pansexualism and libertinism,” she scoffed. “Is he saying there’s something in the air? Is this an actual theory?” -
The Boy is the Father of the Man
There can’t be many authors who’ve given their name to a distinct sociological “type.” But so it is with Nick Hornby Man. The British writer of High Fidelity, Fever Pitch, and About A Boy has become a convenient shorthand for a certain kind of feckless modern male. Nick Hornby Man is confused, child-like, self-centered and crippled by a fear of commitment. This sorry specimen struggles to maintain an adult relationship with a member of the opposite sex. However, he can name every captain of the Arsenal soccer team since 1945 or reel off his All-Time Top-Five Teen Death Songs at the drop of a hat.
The cult success of Hornby’s books in the U.S. shows that Nick Hornby Man is a more or less universal concept. There’s nothing unique to Britain about geeky males being messed up about women. Hornby’s American fans might not understand the offside rule (clue: it’s a soccer thing) but they know that weary feeling that their beloved team can only be relied upon to let then down, whether that team is Arsenal FC or the Pittsburgh Steelers. Similarly, it’s no stretch to imagine slacker music obsessives bamboozling each other with their killer compilation tapes in Seattle as well as London.
Will, the hero of the novel (and now the movie) About A Boy, is Nick Hornby Man in excelsis. He’s a shallow, selfish idler who divides his days into half-hour “units” of time (having a bath: one unit; watching the dreary British TV game show Countdown: one unit; reading the paper: two units). Will doesn’t “do” anything, in the pen-pushing, wage-earning, nine-to-five sense. Instead he survives on the royalties from a sappy Christmas song left to him by his embittered, one-hit-wonder father. Will’s life changes, though, when he starts dating single mothers. The reason? They’re grateful, ego-massaging, and, rather conveniently, they sooner or later tend to bail out in a guilt-free parting. So Will “invents” a son and joins a single parents’ support group through which he meets Marcus, a nerdy 12-year-old who’s bullied at school, and his mother Fiona, a suicidally depressed, hairy-sweatered hippie.
Will’s deception is soon discovered, but he and Marcus form an unlikely bond. Under Will’s guidance, Marcus begins to “fit in” at school with the right tennies and CDs. Will, meanwhile, discovers that being a father figure, even one in a weird, non-nuclear family, is just as enjoyable as sitting around in his sleek bachelor pad, getting stoned in front of the TV.
All Hornby books (even the recent How To Be Good with his first female protagonist) are gentle, sentimental entertainments in which people “connect” and “grow” emotionally. And so it is with About A Boy. Hornby’s chief talent is in selling this old-fashioned idea to a hip, bored, cynical audience (post-grunge men, basically) via his razor-sharp wit and a gift for observation that a stand-up comic would kill for.
Movie versions of Hornby’s books, though, have been problematic. On one level they’re eminently filmable, packed with great dialogue and universal themes. However, all the books are set in the same small corner of North London, roughly bordered by the Arsenal football ground to the north and Kings Cross railway station to the south. It’s where Hornby lives. He’s a man who clearly subscribes to the age-old write-about-what-you-know maxim, quipping, “I’m not convinced that South London is sufficiently different from North London to justify the tube fare.”
Which begs the question: Should filmmakers stay faithful to this parochial world or risk transplanting the action? The lumpy, unengaging screening of Fever Pitch, starring Colin Firth (Bridget Jones’s Diary), failed to make much impression on the U.S. box office. High Fidelity meanwhile was drastically Americanized—as if a “real” London setting would be too much for an audience already sold on the faux Brittania of Austin Powers or Four Weddings And A Funeral. High Fidelity was a success, but effectively a new work, with John Cusack in the lead role and a shift in the action from ’80s London to millennial Chicago. Aside from a cloying, feel–good climax, the spirit of the story was surprisingly unmolested, and the producers simply updated the arcane music references.
For the cinematic version of About A Boy, directors Paul and Chris Weitz were hired, provoking visions of teen slapstick and, possibly, a few sex scenes involving pastries. In reality, the creators of American Pie have done nothing of the sort. Their real achievement was to give the whole enterprise a sharper sense of comic timing. This is an incredibly faithful version, trimming only the flab and updating the action from 1993 to the present. The kids at Marcus’s school listen to, say, Mystikal’s “Shake Ya Ass” rather than Nirvana’s “Smells Like Teen Spirit.” This tweak does force a significant change in the climactic scene, a different crisis than the one brought on in the novel by Kurt Cobain’s suicide. But no Hornby fan could argue with how they’ve solved it.
They’d also struggle to find fault with the key performances. Hugh Grant, replete with new, non-floppy haircut and trendy urban wardrobe, seems to have no difficulty getting into the head of Will. This is, remember, a self-styled “tatty human being” who squirms at an invitation to become godfather to a friend’s daughter before confessing that when she’s 18 he’ll probably, you know, try to sleep with her. He should be thoroughly unlikeable but the audience can’t help but warm to him—the kind of role for which Grant is, of course, a natural. It helps too that his underage foil is never pathetic or precious. Nicholas Hoult is better than any child actor in their first major role has a right to be. And there’s one further recommendation for this engaging, uplifting, funny film. It also shows the highest fidelity to Hornby’s chronic obsession with obscure pop music. The musical score is ripe with moments of dappled loveliness, childlike exuberance, and classic pop—commissioned at the author’s suggestion from a satisfyingly cultish Mancunian bumbler known as Badly Drawn Boy. Nick Hornby Men the world over—and the women who love them—will not be disappointed.
About A Boy, starring Hugh Grant, opens May 17 at a theater near you.
Rob Fearn is the reviews editor of Q, the brilliant British music magazine.
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The Receding Bikini Line
Listen up folks. Bathing suit season is upon us. We have very little time. As the temperature rises, the threat of exposure increases. Soon we will be obliged to reveal the acres of tender flesh we have been farming lo these past seven months. And ready or not, after Memorial Day, we will hit the sand in jiggling herds wearing little more than sun block and a self-conscious smirk.
I am a solid citizen. A size 12. I tip the scales at about a buck-fifty. I left behind the idea that I needed to be rail thin a long time ago. Some might call me full-bodied, I say I’m Midwestern. That way it sounds reassuring, like something good to hang onto, not something to try to hide. My weight is substantial, but not unhealthy. It looks good on me. I have places to go and things to eat and I can’t be bothered with someone else’s idea of beauty. When I step out of the shower and look in the mirror, I like what I see.
It’s when I have to stuff my goodies into one square foot of patterned spandex and traipse out in public that the trouble starts. With a swimsuit, there are all sorts of problems. I have yet to find a suit bottom that stays put. Even the new boy-cut surfer shorts that are all the rage. I can’t take five steps from beach blanket to shore without making the entire back of my suit disappear. Alacazam and Presto! It’s my special magic trick. I could wear a thong, but something in my working-class DNA prevents me from spending 20 bucks on an item of clothing you can hardly see. I’d rather draw one on with a Sharpie.
Another concern with the change of season is sun exposure. Have you ever read all the precautions that dermatologists want you to take before you step out into the great outdoors? Is it my imagination or does the list get longer every year? Sun block, check. Big hat, check. Sunglasses, check. Lip balm, check. You can still see a few defiant souls flash-frying themselves here and there, around the lakes, in their yards, going for that St. Tropez glow. But until “Fruit Leather” becomes a sought-after skin texture, I’ll just be sitting over there, under that tree, wearing my Standard Government Issue anti-gamma ray poncho and boots.
Actually, for the last couple of years, I have been involved in several self-tanning accidents. I have worked my way through every brand of bronzer; from high-end cosmetic counter green-tea infused cinnamon butters, to discount chain-store brand paste, with the same results. I follow the directions, exfoliate, moisturize, and smooth on using quick upward strokes, allowing time to dry thoroughly before putting clothes back on. Golden, sun-kissed color will appear two to three hours after application. Repeat as necessary every two to three days to maintain color. Hmmph. I have created a new art form in tan lines. The first time, I gave myself my very own pinstriped birthday suit. The second time? Handprint-sized blotches appeared that looked like severe bruising under the fluorescent lights at Cub. I finally figured out a system, though: several applications over an intensive 48-hour period where I remain naked (shades pulled) in my house, standing in front of the TV holding my arms out as each application dries. Repeat every other week when the kids are gone visiting Dad.
While I’m drying, I worry. The thing about summer approaching is that the kids will be out of school and they will require attention. My kids, ages 11 and 14, are in that wondrous age when they are too old to have babysitters, yet too young to be left at home alone for any length of time. Without the stabilizing influence of a regimented school day, the ever-present threat of boredom looms.
Every year at this time, I start the summer with hopeful thoughts of all the free activities the kids and I will partake in. Park festivals where there are giant puppets and dancers! Bi-weekly jaunts to the public library for mind-enriching literature! Evening bike rides to the rose garden where we will breathe deep the perfume of night-blooming varieties. Homemade sandwiches enjoyed while listening to street musicians busking for change. In none of these scenarios do I imagine unlimited-ride wristbands, or steady visits to Taco Bell. I don’t envision children who are forced to spend an extra 10 hours a day in close proximity renegotiating the terms of their relationship with purple-nurples and hurts-donits. I don’t think of rainy days and the struggle for control over the TV clicker. No, I dream of 10,000 lakes, and a suit bottom that never rides up.
Colleen Kruse is a Twin Cities actress and comedian. Email her: mscolleenkruse@hotmail.com
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Pick that trash up, homeboy!
Why does North Minneapolis, which boasts the Twin Cities’ highest concentration of black folk, appear to have the most trash on the ground? As a newcomer to the “North Side,” I have been shocked at the garbage strewn about my ’hood. When I complained to then Fifth Ward rep and Minneapolis Council President Jackie Cherryhomes about it, she told me I have trash problems because I live too close to the Broadway commercial corridor.
If that were the case, then Kenwood and Linden Hills, both of which contain thriving commercial districts, should be choked with litter. They are not. Both neighborhoods are relatively litter-free. And, dare we say, both neighborhoods have relatively few young people of color.
I have stood in the living room of my North Minneapolis home and watched young people deliberately drop trash on the street. My next-door neighbor, reasoning that a convenient trash can might encourage people to do the right thing, placed one in his front yard. The trash can barely made a dent in the amount of trash dumped in front of our houses. In fact, my neighbor has seen people saunter up to the trash can, look into it, and then drop trash outside the can.
Most people I see dumping trash on the ground are young people of color. Mostly boys, but the girls make a sizeable contribution as well. Ironically, many of these same kids, who apparently think nothing of trashing their own turf, often take great pride in their $150 sneakers and their mega-decibel car stereo systems.
Comedian Franklin Ajaye once quipped about being at UCLA at the height of the black power movement, jumping to the front of a registration line while shouting, “Get back, Whitey!” Instead of giving him the whacking he deserved, the white students said, “They’ve been oppressed, you know. We’ve got to make allowances.” And Ajaye, fearing no consequences, kept cutting in line.
Oh, I can hear the apologists now—these are kids suffering from self-esteem issues. The system has beaten them down. They do not have effective role models. We need to gently steer them in the right direction. Blah, blah, blah. Poverty, oppression, teen pregnancy, and white racism—you pick the social ill. None of it excuses living in filth. This is one issue that black folk cannot blame on Mr. Charley. White people do not make these young people commit the ecological equivalent of defecating where they live.
A few weeks ago, after watching yet another drop-the-trash-next-to-the-trash-can episode, I could not restrain myself. Like news anchor Howard Beale in Network, I was mad as hell and I wasn’t going to take it anymore. Before I knew it, I was outside in my J.C. Penney’s robe and matching house slippers, telling the two teenaged culprits to pick up their garbage. They paused as if in shock. After about three heartbeats of silence, they picked it up, placed it in the can, and said, “No problem man, it’s cool.” I do not know what their grades are like, if they live at home with both parents, or if they have other issues. I do know this: By placing the trash in the can, their actions belied the obvious—that it was not a problem to “do the right thing.”
We as a community (and I do not mean just the darker side here) must confront these kids and hold them accountable for dumping trash. Ignoring it (and, for that matter, the trash talking) does nothing but (1) keep them from learning the crucial life lesson of personal responsibility; (2) lower property values; and (3) give the racially jaundiced more fodder to perpetuate racial stereotypes.
Yes, it will probably feel awkward to confront the trashers. And some kids will get mouthy. If however we choose to say nothing, we become accomplices in the creation of neighborhood landfills and miscreant young adults.
Clinton Collins, Jr. is a Minneapolis attorney and commentator.
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Adventure Meals
This week, as a backdrop to my birthday, winter ended, my two junker cars got towed away for good, my younger daughter learned to ride solo on her two-wheeler, and my neighbor Mike returned from wintering in Mexico. Needless to say, all this has made me eager to travel.
I can’t believe it’s been 18 years since my first getaway to Mexico. I planned it myself, secretly, with an atlas and a phone book, in the weeks before my 16th birthday. When the morning of the big day arrived, I skipped school and hopped an MTC to the Greyhound terminal. I had enough money for a one-way ticket to El Paso and $67 for food and sundries en route. I wore an unattractive light gray Members Only jacket and baggy jeans, and carried a purple tote bag with the word “Ciao!” embroidered on the small label. I had braces on my teeth and a genuinely traumatic hair-do leftover from a perm gone wrong at a discount beauty school.
Nevertheless, I was shedding the stresses of my greasy job at Arby’s, the unwelcome adjustment to my 11th new school in 11 years, and the day-to-day unpleasantries of poverty and social isolation. I was happy to be hitting the road, and almost sick with adrenaline and anticipation as I counted out the bills for bus fare.
Despite sweaty palms and a dry throat, I had the benefit of recent experience with cross-country bus trips. Just before my freshman year of high school, I’d plunked down my summer babysitting cash and left the driving to Greyhound for a ride West from Minnesota to Wyoming to visit my best friend Holly in Casper, where I had lived for six years. That trip had been mostly uneventful, with the exception of a few unusual but harmless seatmates and one jarring snafu in rural Wyoming, when my 14-day bus pass expired earlier than I’d calculated, and a stickler at the transfer station refused to let me back on the bus.
However, my bus fare was hitch-free this time around. It was the whole entering-a-foreign-country thing that had me worried. I had to walk across the border from El Paso to Juárez and figure out, with two years of high-school Spanish and a pocket dictionary, how to traverse the 1,500 miles south to Cuernavaca, where I expected to look up a family for whom I’d babysat regularly before they’d moved away to Mexico.
My first shock came when I tried to ask a pedestrian how to find the train station and he apparently thought I’d asked him to lead me to a hotel. Which he did. By this time I’d been traveling alone by bus for three days and nights, my $67 was dwindling, I was dirty, tired, and losing my sense of adventure. My purple tote bag was growing heavier and heavier under the setting Mexican sun. So, at 16 years and a few days old, 1,500 miles from home, having never seriously taken up any of the usual teenaged pastimes of cigarettes, alcohol, or boys, I followed this Mexican man up the dimly lit staircase of a shabby hotel and collapsed in exhaustion on the pink polyester bedspread. I awoke to the nostril-burning scent of aftershave hovering above me, and when I opened my eyes my travel companion was staring down at me, ready for a kiss.
I lurched out of his way, exclaiming in Spanish and English and every gesture in between that he had gotten the wrong idea. And then I said something I thought he would understand in either language: “I am a Catholic girl!” I wasn’t Catholic, then or now, but the point was well taken, and suddenly this man handed over his wallet, his license, and a stream of earnest apologies and promises that he would do nothing further to offend or harm me. I believed him. Maybe because I could tell he was a good person and meant what he said, or maybe because I was desperate and without a better alternative. Either way, he kept his promises and slept upright in a chair through the night while I lay half awake on the bed. In the morning we ate eggs at a street-side cafe and he walked me to the train station, where he acted as my translator. What he said I don’t know, but somehow he convinced the border patrol to let me on the train with a Dayton’s student charge card as my only I.D.
The train carried me through the Mexican countryside to the city of Chihuahua, where I boarded a bus to Mexico City. From there, finally, I transferred onto the bus that would complete the final leg of my journey to Cuernavaca. By now I’d been on the road about a week, and when I disembarked at the Cuernavaca station, the intensity of my desire to find my American friends was staggering. I found a pay phone and fumbled through my bag for the appropriate foreign coins. I didn’t know their phone number, and suddenly the assumption I’d left home with—of being able to find my friends once I “got to town”—seemed foolish and impossible. I wandered the station in search of a phone book, furiously blinking back tears.
I was afraid to ask for help, since I was pretty sure I’d burst out sobbing and expose my stupidity. I ended up doing both, and to add injury to insult, the friends I had traveled 3,000 miles to see were no longer living in Cuernavaca. I was broke and 16. My attempt to make my way in Cuernavaca failed. The American minister and his wife who gave me shelter didn’t take long to track down my mother and send me back home to all that I’d left behind, including my trusty job at Arby’s.
About a year later, I was working the “window,” and a pretty woman with a soft, southern drawl and two not-so-little-anymore girls drove through ordering Adventure Meals (I’m not making that up, that’s what Arby’s kids’ meals were called then). It was my friend from Cuernavaca. She parked the car and brought her girls into the restaurant; I took my break and we all reminisced. It turned out they’d moved to Guadalajara about a year before I’d come.
I shudder to think of the things that might have happened on that birthday jaunt. Sometimes the thought of that pungent aftershave draws forth a memory so vivid it stops me short. But then again, I’m here to tell the tale, and more importantly, I’ve got a tale to tell. Houses are bought and sold, jobs are gained and lost, the remains of the passing year are turned under every fall and unearthed each spring…and cars, apparently, are towed away with surprising regularity. But our adventures are beyond all that. Our adventures are inspired—breathed in to transform us, breathed out again as the people we’ve now become.
Jeannine Ouellette is a Minneapolis writer and teacher who loves steep hills and hardy shrub roses.