Month: May 2005

  • Maubisse, East Timor

    Mary and Steve write:

    We are dedicated and regular readers of The Rake — and to prove it,
    here is a picture of us reading The Rake in Maubisse, East Timor. (8
    degrees South latitude, 125 East Longtitude — we flew to Tokyo, then
    Bali, Indodesian, then into Dili the capital of East Timor — 500 km NW
    of Darwin Australia. East Timor was a Portuguese colony until 1975, and
    then was invaded by Indonesian. Finally in 1999, after 24 years of
    oppression and genocide by the Indonesian military, a UN sanctioned
    vote for independence led to the newest nation on Earth — indepence
    day was May 20, 2002.)

    We traveled there to attend the wedding of our son to Milena Da Silva (pictured with us), whose mother lives in East Timor.

    Here is a little Blurb from the email we sent after our trip to
    Maubisse: “…Wednesday I rented a pickup truck with a cab for four —

    and off we went to Maubisse. The distance on the narrow winding road up
    into the mountains was only 70 km, but it took us over four hours to
    get there. We stopped in the village of Aileu on the way, and of course
    a crowd gathered to greet us — many knew Jon from the Bibi Bulak tour
    through the area. From Dili at sea level we climbed to about 1500
    meters (4500 feet) above sea level — and stayed overnight at the
    Pousada Maubisse — a Portuguese built villa in the most magnificent
    setting — a hilltop overlooking the village of Maubisse, and the whole
    area surrounded by mountains on all sides (the highest peaks are 9600
    feet) — spectacular panoramic views — the “cloud city” — huts
    dotting the distant hillside and wisps of smoke from the cooking fires
    — men wearing colorful outfits riding donkeys into the village —
    rumbles of thunder in the distant hills. At the villa itself, we were
    treated to a gourmet meal in the most elegant of dinning rooms, with
    Tais tableclothes….”

    Send along your Rakish travel shots, if we publish yours in the magazine, we’ll send you a non-thermal, non-extreme Rake T-shirt and a $25 gift certificate from West Photo (21 University Ave. N.E., Minneapolis).

    If we publish yours on our website, then we’ll send you nothing, but
    you will be considered Rakish and that alone is well worth it.

    Keep the submissions coming!

    Steve and Mary York

  • Najaf, Iraq

    Sami Rasouli in Najaf, Iraq.

    Sami Rasouli

  • Man Handled!

    If there’s one thing the mainstream media loves more than creating its own celebrities, it’s a good old-
    fashioned rags-to-riches story. So much the better if that classic American journey involves flesh peddling at one end and a prominent masthead title at the other. That’s why there’s no hotter commodity in local journalism these days than Donny Highrise, the former meatpacker and male escort who’s parlayed his colorful past into a six-figure book deal with Regnery Press—and an editor’s gig at the house organ of the Twin Cities zeitgeist, “Jeepers” magazine. Look for Donny’s memoir, “Nude Beneath the Chaps: Packing Meat, Throwing Heat, and Grinding Sausage,” early in 2006.

  • Like it Used to Be

    A picture of Broadway Street in Gilbert from 1910 looks surprisingly similar to one taken yesterday. Sure, there are now streetlights and pavement and tall trees, but the strip is still lined with old-fashioned, flat-roofed buildings, none more than a couple of stories high. While nearby Ely, in catering to canoeists and nostalgia seekers, has come to resemble the “Minnesot-ah!” store at the Mall of America, tiny Gilbert stubbornly remains the real deal.

    Founded as a village in 1896, Gilbert was originally and optimistically named Sparta. It was also located on another spot. But when iron ore was discovered there, the townspeople had to move, buildings and all. With the new location came the new name. In the early 1900s, it was thought that Gilbert would become huge, bigger than Hibbing, even—thus its early nickname, the “Village of Destiny.” The town built a wide, wooden main street, now Broadway, which was part of a twenty-eight-mile boardwalk connecting a string of Mesabi Range towns. Gilbert was also the eastern terminus of the Mesabi Electric Railway, a streetcar line that went to Hibbing.

    Gilbert never did become the jewel of the Range, but its streets continue to be lively and well-kept, its storefronts occupied. At one end of Broadway sits the Iron Range Historical Society, a low brick building that used to be the city hall/police station/jail. There, the curious can view artifacts from Will Steger’s North Pole expedition, jail cells straight out of Mayberry R.F.D., and an impressive mining exhibit. Food options include Koshar’s Sausage Kitchen, specializing in wild game dressing and hand-crafted ethnic sausages (including potato and blood versions), and the Memory Lane Café, which serves hearty breakfasts and homemade soups and pies, the blueberry being especially scrumptious. Gilbert’s best restaurant is also its most unlikely, a Jamaican joint called the Whistling Bird. It draws so many customers from nearby towns that a person is lucky to get a table on a Saturday night.

    When Gilbert incorporated, the first act of its village council was to grant a liquor license. Today, the town still has just two churches but nine bars, all on Broadway. Nick’s is one of the best. Owner Nick Vukelich is an old-timer with a lazy eye, a fever for sailing ships, and a deep love of polka. Representative of his cheeky sense of humor, the sign in the front window reads, “Sorry, we’re open.” About the only thing missing in Gilbert is a place to stay. For that, travelers must drive four miles to Eveleth, where the tidy Koke’s Motel awaits. It gets enthusiastic recommendations from the patrons at Nick’s. That’s the neighborly way things work on the Range. —Jennifer Vogel

  • Make Way for Music

    It’s not easy to get your hands on a twenty-one-key embaire xylophone from Uganda; to acquire hers, Nichole Smaglick sacrificed a chicken. Through this act, she demonstrated her reverence for both the instrument and the Busoga tribe, giving thanks to and blessing its xylophone-playing ancestors.

    “When playing the embaire with the group in Uganda, I can enter an altered state of being,” Smaglick says. “It’s not a trance, but more like being consumed by something. In the first moments of playing, I am creating. Then it slips from my hands into the interlocking engine of all six players. ‘I’ turns to ‘us.’ Then this engine we created seems to come alive.”

    In 1997, after a couple of years of traveling to African countries, Smaglick founded Another Land, a tour company that organizes safaris and homestays with villagers from several tribes, during which travelers take part in dancing, beer brewing, and other daily activities. The first time she returned to Minneapolis from Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, her living quarters seemed positively overstuffed compared to those of the people she’d been visiting. She promptly purged about three quarters of her possessions, primarily clothes and knick-knacks. Now she keeps only what keeps her going. “It is a skill to learn how to live with less,” she says.

    Granted, the embaire practically fills a room by itself, but technically it counts as just one object. Smaglick’s African instruments include an amadinda xylophone, thumb pianos, a zeze harp, and an “endangered” ennanga harp. She double-majored in African studies and piano performance at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, but in 1997, Africa took precedence when the pianist sold her Steinway for a ticket to Uganda to conduct research for Another Land. “I went for six years without a piano,” she says. “The piano is like my lungs. Now I can breathe again.” (She’s since replaced it with one signed by Henry Steinway himself.)

    Despite the Steinway and a few other Western furnishings, African objects dominate Smaglick’s Nokomis-area house in Minneapolis, where she resides about eight months of the year. Her collection gives deeper meaning to “conversation piece.” A Chagga spear hangs over the entryway, and in the bedroom is a replica of a love seat owned by the last sultan of Zanzibar. The Barabaig of Tanzania gave her several gourds, both decorative and practical, to celebrate her marriage to musician Steve Schley (from the local bluegrass outfit Free Range Pickin’). A beaded leather cloak was another gift, the kind normally given by a mother to her daughter. And a tribeswoman gave her a bracelet in friendship with the request, “Tell my story.”

    With that in mind, Smaglick founded a business with Barabaig women, the Amias Project (amias is “beautiful” in Barabaig), selling their shawls, jewelry, handbags, and scarves. She plans to open a retail space later this year in Northeast Minneapolis’ Northrup King Building; in the meantime, she’s looking to round up Twin Cities musicians to whom she can offer lessons on the embaire, an ensemble instrument. “I need some people to play with!” she says.—Jenny Woods

  • See How Far You Get

    The sun was out and it didn’t look like it would ever rain. Sopha’s mama was coming toward them, her black umbrella up over her head. She held it high, so it looked like she was reaching up her white hand to hold onto the raggedy wing of a crow. In the other hand, bright orange and small, like the wings of some bug, were two tickets. Sopha was holding onto Hovis. And Hovis was holding onto his pearl-handled pistol with the hand that wasn’t holding onto Sopha. They were at the fair.

    Sopha had on new shoes. They were red sneakers and they were too small, but they were brand new, never before worn by another, and they made it so that whichever direction she looked, she was dizzy with happiness. If she looked down at her feet, the thrill of her new shoes, along with the tight pinch of them not fitting right, sent her spinning. If she looked up, straight out in front of her, there was the fair, bright as a star crashed to the earth and, according to Caroline, waiting to suck Sopha’s soul right on out of her. Sopha was happy to give it up, too. In truth, she was almost breathless with the anticipation of having her soul sucked out of her body.

    And if she considered what was inside of her, the victory of convincing their mama to bring them here, the deep and solid joy of finally winning against Caroline, well, that sent her spinning, too. It was joy every which way for as far as Sopha could see.

    “It’s hot,” said Hovis, shoving his cowboy hat back off his forehead.

    “I know it is,” said Sopha. “But here we are. Didn’t I always tell you I would get us to the fair?”

    “Yes,” said Hovis, but he didn’t seem impressed or grateful. He fingered his pearl-handled revolver. Hovis was twelve years old, two years older than Sopha, too old to be wearing play guns in a play holster, but he wouldn’t take the guns off, ever. He slept with the holster strapped on over his pajamas and his hands on either side of him, gripping the guns, ready for some nocturnal shootout.

    “Now you children,” said their mama, coming up to them.

    “Yes, ma’am?” said Sopha, staring at the tickets in her mama’s hand.

    “You children got to be good. You got to make me and Mr. Paul Roberts proud with your behavior.”

    “Yes, ma’am,” said Sopha.

    Her mother handed her the tickets. “I am going on home,” she said. “It’s too hot for me to set out here all day. Besides, Mr. Paul Roberts might call.”

    Sopha rolled her eyes. The phone wasn’t even hooked up. If you picked it up and listened, there wasn’t any sound at all, not even the dull roar of the ocean like you sometimes heard in a seashell. It was dead, dead, dead. There was no way Mr. Paul Roberts could call.

    “Caroline says the fair is the Devil’s Work,” Hovis said.

    “Caroline,” said their mama, coming now to sharp attention, her lips a white hot line under the dark umbrella. “You pay attention to me. Not Caroline. I am your mama, Hovis. You are my child.”

    “She says it’s the Devil’s Party,” said Hovis.

    “Hush up, Hovis,” said Sopha, pinching his hand. And then, to distract her mama, she said, “Tell Mr. Roberts ‘hey’ when he calls. Tell him thank you for letting us go the fair.”

    Her mama’s face relaxed. She twirled the handle of her umbrella and smiled. “Mr. Paul Roberts,” she said. “Mr. Paul Roberts has a surprise for you children.”

    “What?” said Sopha.

    “Hold onto this for me, girl.” She handed Sopha the umbrella. “Hold it up high, now. Don’t let that sun get at me.”
    Sopha put the tickets in the pocket of her dress, kept hold of Hovis with one hand and held the black umbrella up high with the other. Her feet were sweating in her new shoes. She looked past Hovis’ cowboy hat and saw the fair crooking a shiny finger at her, saying, “Come this way, come right this way.”

    Her mama dug around in her pink vinyl pocketbook, humming the tune to some sad song. “There,” she said finally. And she held out two dollar bills.

    “For what?” said Sopha.

    “Why, to spend. That is a dollar for each of you. To spend as you like. Take it,” she said to Sopha, holding out the money.

    “I don’t got a hand,” said Sopha, holding onto the umbrella, holding onto Hovis.

    “Well for heaven’s sake, girl; you got to learn how to adapt.” She took the umbrella out of Sopha’s hand and then handed her the money.

    “Now, Hovis, I am giving your sister the money for you. One whole dollar of that is yours.”

    “I’m going to buy you a present with it, Mama,” said Hovis.

    “Why, sugar, thank you.”

    Sopha squeezed Hovis’ hand hard enough to make him yelp.

    “Come here, baby,” said their mama. She took Hovis and pulled him to her and hugged him tight and said, “Oh, Mr. Man, you are my handsome boy. You look just like your daddy, don’t you? You are the spitting image of your daddy.”

    “Yes,” agreed Hovis.

    “You,” said her mama, letting go of Hovis and turning to Sopha.

    “Yes, ma’am?”

    “You watch him careful.”

    “Shoot,” said Sopha. “I always watch him careful. I been watching him careful since forever. I …”

    Her mama stepped close to her. She put her face right in Sopha’s so that Sopha could smell the black heat of the umbrella and see the pink powder clinging to her mama’s face.

    “If he has a fit, you make sure people don’t see.”

    “I’m gonna watch him. I said I would.”

    Her mama bent in even closer, like she was fixing to hug Sopha. She stared in her eyes and then pulled back quick. One of the sharp points of the umbrella grabbed at Sopha’s forehead, stinging her.

    “Mr. Paul Roberts might be calling right this very minute,” she said. “I have to go.” She twirled her umbrella over her head and walked away over the worn-out grass. She stopped and turned back to face them. “I’ll pick you up at five o’clock. Right here.”

    “Yes, ma’am,” said Sopha.

    “I love you, Mama,” shouted Hovis, like she was already miles and miles away from them and wouldn’t hear him unless he yelled.

    “I love you, too, baby.”

    “Come on,” said Sopha, jerking on Hovis’ arm, “let’s go.”

    ***

    “Looky here,” said the ticket taker when Sopha handed him their tickets. “What have we got here? Howdy, partner.”

    “Hey,” said Hovis.

    “Don’t shoot me now,” said the ticket taker, putting his hands up in the air.

    “I ain’t going to shoot you,” said Hovis.

    “Well, that is a pure relief.” The man lowered his hands. “Got you an official badge too, huh?” He squinted at the pin that Hovis had attached to his shirt. “Says you are a sheriff. Is that right?”

    “Yes, sir,” said Hovis. “Caroline says I am a sheriff of the Lord.”

    “How’s that?” said the ticket taker.

    “Never mind,” said Sopha. She yanked on Hovis and pulled him through the wooden gate. “Come on,” she said.

    “How come you wouldn’t let me tell that man who I am?” said Hovis.

    “Because he don’t care,” said Sopha. “That’s why. Look.” She swept her arm wide at what was before them, the glittery rides snaking and twirling and spinning in the sun and the game booths full of things you could win, and the cotton candy and the popcorn and the hot dogs all waiting to be eaten. “This is the fair.”

    “I want to go home,” said Hovis, still pouting. “I want Caroline.”

    Sopha slapped him upside the head.

    “Hush up,” she said. “Caroline ain’t here.”

    And then she slapped him again harder, just to let him know who was in charge now.

    When she woke up that morning, the morning of the fair, Sopha knew that Caroline was gone. She could tell just by the way the house felt, silent and waiting, and there by her bed were the new shoes, red and perfect, waiting for her. She didn’t doubt them or wonder where they came from, but instead took them as proof that things had changed forever. For good.

    She put on the shoes and went to remind her mama that they were going to the fair. She picked her way out onto the back porch slowly, walking careful because of the rotting floorboards. One wrong step and you could end up falling who knew where.

    Hell is what Caroline would say.

    She all the time talked about how the house was positioned directly over Hell and the only thing that saved the four of them from being swallowed right up was Hovis. Hovis and his magic and the sweetness of his soul. Hovis, sheriff of the Lord.

    “The fair?” her mama said, when Sopha finally reached her.

    She was wrapped up in a flowered sheet, sitting in a glider chair, moving back and forth so fast that it looked like she was trying to get up enough speed to swing herself out off the porch and up into the sky.

    “Yes, ma’am, the fair,” said Sopha, her heart beating fast inside her.

    “The fair,” repeated her mama, like it was a pretty word she was just now learning.

    “Remember?” said Sopha. “You got that letter from Mr. Paul Roberts and he told you to take us to the fair? Remember?”

    “Caroline,” said her mother. She stopped her gliding and sat up straighter and pulled the sheet tighter around her.

    “She’s gone,” said Sopha. “She left last night. I saw her.”

    “Yes, that’s right,” said her mama, smacking her lips the way she did when she was pleased over something. “Caroline is gone. And there is the fair. Mr. Paul Roberts would like for you to attend. I remember. You go on and get Hovis dressed and I will take you to the fair.”

    Sopha turned and started making her way back across the porch.

    “Girl,” said her mama.

    Sopha stopped but didn’t turn around.

    “Look here.”

    Sopha turned.

    Her mama had the letter in her hand. She held it up to the light. “Which way do you reckon Spain is? That’s where Mr. Paul Roberts is right now. Spain. This letter is postmarked Spain. Can you imagine?”

    “No, ma’am,” lied Sopha.

    “They got castles in Spain,” said her mama.

    “Yes, ma’am,” said Sopha. She turned back around. A floorboard creaked. She kept moving. “I’ll get Hovis ready to go,” she said.

    It was Harlan Jacobs who had written the letter. She went down there and told him she needed his help. She went down to see Harlan Jacobs all the time.

    “What you want with that dirty old man?” Caroline asked her.

    “Nothing,” Sopha said.

    “You going down there all the time, you must want something.”

    “We’re friends, him and me,” said Sopha holding her chin up high.

    “Huh,” said Caroline with a snort. “Friends.”

    “That’s right,” said Sopha, “friends.”

    Caroline snorted again, louder this time. But she did not stop Sopha from going.

    What Caroline did not know was that Harlan Jacobs was writing the whole history of the world on the back of grocery sacks and each room of his house was a different part of the book.

    “This book,” Harlan told her, picking at his nose, “has got everything in it, from the very beginning.”

    “Starting with God making the world?” Sopha asked him.

    Harlan laughed. “God didn’t make the world.”

    “Caroline says he did,” said Sopha.

    “Shit,” said Harlan. “That old woman thinks she knows everything, but she don’t.”

    What if Caroline didn’t know everything? What if she wasn’t right about every little thing? Considering that question made Sopha hopeful. She asked Harlan to write her a letter.

    “I need you to write me some history,” she told him.

    She stood over him while he did it. She breathed in the smell of him, dust and paper sacks and wood smoke and ink. His hand shook so hard that it looked like he wouldn’t be able to write a thing, but the words flowed out of his pen, all loose and silvery.

    He wrote three pages. Only at the end did he mention the fair. He said, “I believe that the children should be rewarded for their good behavior. Take them to the fair.” He pointed out the line to her, shoving his big, yellow nail right underneath the magic word itself.

    “That meet with your approval, little Miss Sopha?” he asked.

    Harlan was the only one who ever said her name like it meant something to him and for that alone she loved him more than she should.

    “Now we got to postmark it,” he said, “make it look genuine.”

    The prettiest stamp he could find was one from Spain. And that was how Mr. Paul Roberts ended up there. Because Harlan liked the stamp.

    Sopha had walked back from his house careful and afraid, holding the letter in her hands like it was a live thing.
    At one point, she stopped and looked back and saw the tin roof of Harlan’s house shining in the noonday sun; and she saw, too, the dusty impressions where her feet had been in the clay road.

    “Girl,” she said out loud, “do you or do you not want to go to the fair?”

    “I want to go,” she answered her own self, “I want to go to the fair.”

    And so she turned around and kept walking. She went up onto the front porch of her own house and put the letter in the mailbox. Late that afternoon, her mama opened it and read it and then took it to the kitchen where Caroline was cooking dinner. Hovis was sitting at her feet, taking one of his guns in and out of its holster and admiring the way it reflected the afternoon light.

    Sopha stood in the doorway to the kitchen and watched, listening.

    “I have had a letter from Mr. Paul Roberts,” her mama announced.

    “Mr. Paul Roberts,” repeated Caroline, saying the name like she had never heard of the man, when, in fact, his name was invoked in the house a hundred, a thousand, a million times a day.

    “That’s right,” said Sopha’s mama. “Mr. Paul Roberts has written to me.”

    “Go on and give it to me then,” said Caroline, turning away from the stove and holding out her hand.

    “No. It is mine. Something between a man and his wife.”

    “Miss Clare,” said Caroline, turning back around, stirring whatever was in the pot. It smelled like beans to Sopha. Beans was what it usually was. “You know that Mr. Roberts didn’t write you no letter.”
    “What is this I am holding in my hand then?”

    “I don’t know. But it sure ain’t no letter from your Mr. Paul Roberts.”

    “He loves me,” said Sopha’s mama.

    “Got a funny way of showing it,” said Caroline. “Hovis. Sweet child, you get on up and go somewhere else. This ain’t for your ears.”

    “Why not?” said Hovis. “Why ain’t it for my ears?” He stood up and put his gun in the holster.

    “‘Cause I said it ain’t. Now go on.”

    “I want to stay,” said Hovis, pulling both his guns out and pointing them straight at Caroline.

    “Get,” said Caroline.

    Hovis walked backward out of the room, spinning a pistol in each hand, and bumped right into Sopha.

    “What are you doing?” he asked, poking her in the stomach with one of the guns.

    “I’m working on getting us to the fair,” Sopha whispered. “Now go on.” She shoved him away from her and stepped forward into the kitchen and said, “Mama, what did Mr. Roberts say? Did he mention us kids?”

    “Hush up,” said Caroline, pointing at her with the cooking spoon. “This don’t got nothing to do with you.”

    “He’s my daddy,” said Sopha.

    “He loves you,” trilled her mama, turning to Sopha. “He says that he loves you. And he wants you children to go to the fair.”

    “They ain’t going to no fair,” said Caroline. “Ain’t no way you sending Hovis to the fair.”

    “I imagine I can do whatever me and my husband decide to do. It ain’t none of your business.”

    “Ain’t none of my business?”

    “That’s right. That’s what I said.”

    “These children my business. Ain’t I raised them up?”

    The kitchen was quiet. Sopha could hear both women breathing, could feel the quick up and down of the air leaving their bodies. Outside, it felt like the world was holding its breath. The leaves on the trees were still. The crickets stopped their shrieking. Everything waited.

    “You,” said Sopha’s mama finally, “did not raise up my babies.”

    There was more silence and then Caroline spoke, the sound of her voice high and tight. “That boy cannot go to the fair.”

    “He most certainly can.”

    “They kill him if they find out what he can do.”

    Sopha’s mama put her hands over her ears.

    “That boy belong to the Lord,” said Caroline.

    “To me,” said Sopha’s mama, removing her hands from her ears and tapping her chest with the letter. “He belongs to me. And to my husband. Not to you. You are nothing but hired help.”

    Sopha spoke up then, pointing them in the direction of what mattered. “Do we really get to go to the fair?” she said.

    “Yes,” said her mama, without taking her eyes off Caroline.

    “No,” said Caroline, looking right at Sopha.

    “My children will go to the fair, as their daddy wishes. And you are fired.”

    “Can’t fire me,” said Caroline. She put down the spoon and went out the back door and stood in the overgrown grass. Sopha followed her, but only as far as the door. She pushed her face up against the screen and inhaled its sharp tang of metal and blood and rust.

    She stared at Caroline. She saw one tear, two tears, roll down her face. And then she saw that beyond Caroline, past her, the tin roof of Harlan’s house blazed like it was trying to send out a message about the history of the world and who would write it.

    Not you, thought Sopha as she watched Caroline cry. You won’t be the one telling the story, you won’t be the one writing it down.

    And Sopha was right. Floyd Meerkham came late that night in his Ford truck. The headlights made the grass in the yard look ghost white and left Caroline in darkness and she looked like nothing but a shadow as she walked away from the house and got into the truck.

    ***

    In the morning, the red tennis shoes were by Sopha’s bed and her new life had begun. She was not about to let Hovis spoil it for her, not now that she had finally gotten what she wanted.

    “Quit your crying,” she told him. “This is the fair. And you got a whole dollar to spend.” She yanked on his arm and started him walking.

    “Win you a exotic bird,” a man called out to them. “Win you a bird of paradise right here.” They turned and looked and saw that his booth was hung all over with cages and in the cages were bright-feathered birds.

    Hovis pulled Sopha closer. “These birds are from paradise?” he asked the man.

    “That’s right. On a express train from paradise direct to you and me. It ain’t but a dollar a chance to win you one.”

    “A dollar is just exactly what I got,” said Hovis, wiping at his weepy eyes with the back of his hand.

    “See there?” said the man. He picked out something from between his teeth and studied it for a long time before finally flicking it away.

    The booth stunk like chickens. The birds in their cages were strangely silent and unmoving. They stared at Sopha and Hovis with small, mean eyes.

    Sopha felt something growing in her chest, something small and hard and disbelieving, a pebble of doubt. “Don’t spend your dollar here,” she told Hovis. “These ain’t nothing but painted-up tiny chickens.”

    “Son,” said the man. His eyes traveled leisurely over Hovis, taking in the hat and the revolvers and the holster and the sheriff badge, glinting in the sun. “You look like somebody who knows how to aim a gun.”

    “Yes, sir,” said Hovis, standing up straighter, expecting, as always, to be admired, “I do.”

    What was it like to be Hovis, Sopha wondered? What was it like to believe that you were chosen and that everybody in the whole world was just waiting to love you?

    “There’s rides, Hovis,” she told him. “And food. There’s hot dogs. And cotton candy. We ain’t been here but five minutes.”

    “Give him my dollar,” commanded Hovis. “I’m gonna win Mama a bird of paradise.”

    Sopha shook her head and took one of the dollars out of her pocket and handed it over to the bird of paradise man, who took it from her and nodded his head and said, “That’s right, win you your very own bird of paradise.” He smiled at Sopha and his teeth flashed in the sun; almost all of them were gold.

    “All you got to do, Sheriff, is knock down all them pins with this here ball and the bird is yours.” He handed a wooden ball to Hovis. Hovis took off his hat and put it between his feet and threw the ball hard. Not one of the pins moved.
    “No winner,” said the man. “No winner, no winner here.” He smiled at Sopha, his teeth flashing.

    The chicken smell was making her sick to her stomach.

    Hovis bent and picked up his hat and put it back on his head. He turned and looked at Sopha. His bottom lip was trembling.

    “Damn, Hovis,” she said.

    How was it that he managed to ruin every little thing for her?

    “Here,” she said. And she gave the second dollar, her dollar, to the gold-toothed man.

    “Win you a bird of paradise. Win you your very own bird of paradise,” he said and snatched the dollar out of her hand.
    Hovis took off his hat again and put it on the ground again. He threw the ball again. Knocked over nothing again and then started to cry for real this time, big old tears streaming down his face. Sopha slapped him because she couldn’t think of what else to do. She slapped him for losing her money and his. That was the first slap. And then she slapped him again. The second slap was just because he was Hovis.

    “Now never mind,” she told him when she was done.

    She picked up his hat, put it back on his head and then took hold of his hand.

    “Win you a bird of paradise,” said the man as they walked away. “Win you a real live bird of paradise.”

    Sopha led the crying Hovis to a curb and said to him, “Sit down.” He sat and Sopha sat beside him and looked around her and the pebble of doubt in her stomach turned into a rock. All of a sudden she realized something terrible: This was the fair, yes, but it was still the same old world. It had just dressed itself up in fancy clothes was all.

    And then, as if to prove her point, here came Debbie Nort from school, walking toward them, her blond hair brushed and shining bright. Sopha quick stretched out her legs and put her feet flat so that Debbie Nort could see her new shoes.

    “Hey, Sopha,” said Debbie.

    “Hey,” said Sopha.

    “That your brother?”

    “That’s right.”

    “I heard about him,” said Debbie Nort. “How come he don’t come to school?”

    “None of your business,” said Sopha. She still had hold of Hovis’ hand and she squeezed it extra hard, but she could feel the beginning signs. He was quiet and she knew he was slipping away from her.

    “What’s wrong with him?” Debbie said. She poked at one of Hovis’ feet with her own foot, like he was something dead in the road.

    “Stop it,” Sopha said.

    Debbie Nort kept poking at Hovis. “You all ain’t got no daddy,” said Debbie.

    “You don’t know what we got,” said Sopha.

    “And your mama’s a big old piece of Christmas fruitcake. With nuts. Everybody says so.”

    “My daddy,” said Sopha and the words felt strange in her mouth and Hovis’ hand had melted down to nothing but bone and she knew that he was getting ready to have a fit, but she didn’t care. “My daddy is in Spain. I bet you don’t even know where Spain is at.”

    “I know them shoes,” said Debbie Nort.

    “What?”

    “I said I know them shoes.”

    Debbie cracked her gum. A fly landed on the brim of Hovis’ hat.

    “These are my shoes,” Sopha said slowly.

    “Maybe now they are,” said Debbie. She looked off in the distance and squinted her eyes at something.

    “What?” said Sopha. Beside her, Hovis sighed and twitched. The fit was coming.

    “Well, before you had them they was Mercy Wagon shoes.”

    “No,” said Sopha.

    “Uh huh,” said Debbie Nort. She was silent again, just grinning at Sopha. “I even know who gave them to the Mercy Wagon. It was Miss Lorna on account of they didn’t fit her granddaughter, Doranne. They’re Mercy Wagon shoes for sure,” said Debbie loudly.

    “Liar,” said Sopha, but she said it without conviction. She knew the truth when she heard it. It was a curse, but she did. In this, she was different from Hovis and her mama. Neither one of them even knew what Truth was.

    This was the truth: Caroline had set her up. She had put the shoes by Sopha’s bed to show her that she was still in charge, that she could still make a fool out of her. Caroline had won. She had sent Sopha to the fair in Mercy Wagon shoes.

    Sopha looked past Debbie Nort’s head and saw the Ferris wheel turning slowly, its metal parts catching the sun.

    “I don’t care,” said Sopha.

    And right then Hovis slipped away.

    “Here it comes,” he shouted. His hand shrunk down to nothing. It was like holding onto the bone of a piece of chicken you had been eating. Part of him was still here, but the real Hovis was gone.

    “What’s he doing?” said Debbie Nort.

    Hovis slid over onto his side. He let go of Sopha. His legs twitched. His eyes rolled straight back in his head. And then he started talking, the words pouring out of him like a dark river.

    “Shit,” said Debbie Nort, stepping back.

    Other people started gathering around, staring down at Hovis.

    “What’s he saying?” said Debbie. “What’s he talking about?”

    “He’s talking about how you are going to hell,” said Sopha, looking straight into Debbie Nort’s eyes.

    Debbie stood and stared with her mouth open and then she turned and ran away. Other people came to watch. Hovis’ cowboy hat came off his head. Sopha moved so that she was standing over him.

    “Is it a show?” she heard somebody ask.

    “Naw,” somebody else answered, “it’s just some little cowboy having hisself a fit, is all.”

    They stared for a few minutes and then they left and were replaced by other people who stared and then moved on. No one tried to kill him, like Caroline always predicted they would. No one shouted out that Hovis was speaking God’s words.

    Because he wasn’t.

    He was nothing but some little cowboy having a fit in the dust at the fair. After a while, it was only Sopha standing over Hovis, watching him, waiting for his jerking and gibberish to end.

    “I tell you what,” called out the man from the bird of paradise booth. “I’m going to give that boy a bird.”

    “He don’t need a bird,” said Sopha.

    But the man was already out from behind his booth, coming toward them, limping and swinging a cage with a bright orange bird inside it. He stood with Sopha and stared at Hovis until the fit was done and then when Hovis sat up, all covered in dirt, blinking and looking around, the bird of paradise man said to him, “Touch my leg.”

    “Don’t do it, Hovis,” said Sopha.

    “Touch my leg, Sheriff.”

    Hovis reached out and touched one of the man’s legs.

    “The other one, Sheriff, the other one,” whispered the man to him.

    And Hovis, still dazed, sat there and put both his hands out, one on each of the man’s legs.

    “That’s right,” said the man. He put the cage down on the ground next to Hovis. “Win you a bird of paradise. Step right up and win you a bird of paradise.” He turned and winked at Sopha and then went limping back to his booth.

    “Sopha,” said Hovis.

    She stuck out her hand to him and he took it and she pulled him up off the ground.

    “I can’t take care of you my whole life,” she said, picking up his cowboy hat and putting it on his head.

    “I know it,” Hovis said, his words thick and uncertain.

    Sopha bent over and pulled the laces loose on her shoes and then took them off her feet. Hovis watched her.

    “Quit looking at me,” she said to Hovis.

    He kept on staring at her, his eyes dull like they always were after a fit.

    “Come on,” she said, “we’re leaving.” She picked up the birdcage and left the shoes sitting on the ground.

    “What about your shoes?” asked Hovis.

    “I don’t want them. And if you want to give this bird to Mama so bad, then you got to carry it.” She held out the cage to him. “Take it,” she said.

    He took the cage from her and Sopha turned and started walking. They walked through the gates and the ground was warm under Sopha’s feet and she didn’t look back even once. She could feel the fair shining behind her, but she didn’t care. She knew now that it was nothing but sham and fakery and she was embarrassed to have fallen for it to begin with, to have believed in it for so long.

    “Sopha?”

    “What?”

    “Ain’t you gonna hold my hand?”

    “No,” she said.

    Hovis bumped up against her in a friendly way.

    “Don’t,” she told him.

    “What did I say?” he asked her.

    “When?”

    “When I was talking in the voice of the Lord,” said Hovis shyly.

    “You weren’t talking in the voice of the Lord,” said Sopha. “You were talking in the voice of Hovis having a fit.”

    “I’m telling Caroline,” said Hovis. “I’m telling her what you said.”

    “Go on and tell her,” said Sopha, walking faster to get away from Hovis and the fair. “You got to find her first.”

    Outside the fairground was Sledecker Road and it stretched on forever. As far as Sopha knew, it went right on to the end of the world. They were walking on the side of it, on the burnt-up grass, when along came Floyd Meerkham’s truck with Caroline riding up in front of it looking to Sopha more like a vulture than anything else.

    “Caroline,” shouted Hovis. “There’s Caroline,” he said to Sopha.

    “I know it,” said Sopha. She felt tired.

    Hovis stopped and waited for the truck to get to them. Caroline got out and came running for Hovis, her arms stretched wide, and he set down the bird of paradise cage and stood and waited for her.

    “I had a fit at the fair,” he told her when she got to him. “I talked in the voice of the Lord and Sopha says I didn’t.”
    Caroline took him in her arms and hugged him to her hard, but her eyes were on Sopha.

    “He ain’t nothing special,” Sopha told her. “People watched him having a fit and just walked on away.”

    Hovis started to cry. “I touched that bird man,” he said. “I healed him.”

    “Did not,” said Sopha.

    “Get in the truck, baby,” Caroline told Hovis.

    Hovis picked up the birdcage.

    “Nuh uh,” said Caroline. “You ain’t taking that nasty thing with you.”

    “It’s for Mama,” said Hovis. “It’s a bird of paradise.”

    “Put it down,” said Caroline.

    Hovis put the cage down and adjusted his hat and then put a hand on either side of him, each hand feeling for a pistol as he walked to Floyd Meerkham’s truck.

    “Where your shoes?” Caroline asked Sopha.

    “Maybe back at the Mercy Wagon,” said Sopha, “where you got them from.”

    Caroline smiled at her.

    “I don’t need no mercy from you,” Sopha told her. “I don’t need nothing from you.”

    “Go on and get in the truck.”

    “I ain’t,” Sopha told her. “I ain’t going with you all.”

    Caroline shrugged. “You go on and walk then. Without your shoes. See how far you get.”

    Sopha stood and watched Floyd Meerkham back up the truck and turn it around.

    “Why ain’t Sopha coming?” she heard Hovis ask.

    “She prefer to walk,” said Caroline. “That’s why.”

    After the truck disappeared, Sopha bent and studied the cage and found the latch and lifted it up and told the painted chicken that it was free.

    “Go on then, you stupid old thing,” she told it.

    And then she started walking. She didn’t look back to see what the bird did, whether it stayed in the cage or got out.

    She didn’t care.

    She walked. And while she walked she thought how she would have Harlan write another letter.

    “Dear Clare,” it would say, “please send my daughter Sopha to me. She is my one and only daughter and I want her close. I want to study her face and hands.”

    Sopha walked on, looking down at her bare feet, but what she saw clear as day was Harlan bent over the letter, his thick fingers shaking and the pretty words falling out, one on top of the other, making this one thing true.

    “I love her,” the letter would say.

    “Please show some mercy. Send her to me.”

  • Church and State

    Every Wednesday morning at 10 a.m. during the legislative session, Chaplain Dan Hall hosts a two-hour prayer meeting. It is held around a long wooden table in Room 118 of the State Capitol building, just around the corner from the governor’s office. Attendance varies, averaging about twenty people who know Hall from his work as a voluntary chaplain to state legislators and staff. “Welcome, welcome,” he said one recent Wednesday, gesturing to the overstuffed chairs that surrounded the table.


    Among the attendees were four middle-aged women from a Cannon Falls prayer group, a handicapped man who said he had “left the gay lifestyle” twenty-six years ago, and Myrna Howes, the wife of Republican Representative Larry Howes. It was the group from Cannon Falls, however, that commanded Hall’s attention. They were intercessors—individuals who pray for specific goals or people, sometimes for years. “We’re praying for the churches and the union,” said a puckish member in a pink sweater.

    “Good,” Hall said, nodding, his wide smile casting sincere and fatherly approval on the older woman. “Good!” In his mid-fifties, Hall is a powerfully built man, with wide shoulders and a broad chest. Yet his toothy enthusiasm for faith and the faithful softens that potentially intimidating physical presence into warm charisma. “That’s just great,” he exclaimed.

    “We’ve also prayed for some barren women and had some success,” the woman in the pink sweater continued. “My forty-year-old daughter had a baby.”

    “I remember praying in the early eighties for the Berlin Wall to fall,” said Charlotte Herzog, the group’s leader. “Thinking that maybe it would happen in our children’s lifetime. But it only took six years!”

    Hall checked his Palm Pilot and then announced the order of business. “We’re going to have some legislators stop by and talk about their passions. Then we’ll pray for them.”

    Chaplain Dan Hall is not a state official, nor does he serve in any official capacity. Nevertheless, his voluntary ministry at the state Capitol, which is funded by tax-exempt contributions, is enormously influential with legislators motivated by conservative Christian theologies and teachings on social issues such as abortion and gay rights. According to Lonnie Titus, the full-time official chaplain to Minnesota’s House of Representatives, who was elected by its members, “Dan serves as an issues person on the Christian side at the Legislature. He has been a rallying force for the conservative Christians, and he’s done a great job at it, too.” Titus added, carefully, “I can’t do that because I’m a chaplain to the entire House. But I’m glad Dan is here because it’s a growing need.” Indeed. According to Titus, fully one-third of Minnesota’s legislators “allow religion to play the important role in their life—Jesus in particular,” and their numbers grow with each election.

    Steve Sviggum, the speaker of the Minnesota House of Representatives, entered Room 118 with long steps and an enthusiastic smile. Hall greeted him with a handshake. Though shorter than the lanky Sviggum, Hall has a gregarious presence that gives up nothing in stature next to power. “Mister Speaker, I was hoping that you could tell us about your passions.”

    Sviggum crossed his arms and stood at the head of the table. “First of all, I want to thank you for your thoughts and prayers,” he enthused. “You are so important to legislators.” For the next several minutes he delivered an innocuous lecture on the role of the speaker. When he was nearly finished, a striking blond woman entered the room. “Hi, Jackie,” Sviggum said. “I bet you’re here to talk about Fetal Pain, the Taxpayer’s Protection Act, and Positive Alternatives.”

    Jackie laughed. “Why don’t you do it, Mister Speaker?”

    Sviggum winked at the group and explained, “Jackie and I see each other almost every day.”

    Dan Hall paused to introduce her as Jackie Moen, legislative associate and occasional spokeswoman for Minnesotan Citizens Concerned for Life, the state’s leading anti-abortion organization. “Anyway, the speaker’s time is very limited.” Hall said. “Are there any questions?”

    The man who identified himself as formerly gay raised his hand. “I know we lost some seats this year,” he began. “So what can we pray to get more Republicans in the House and Senate?”

    “I’m not one to be so bold as to say my party’s always right, and God is always on my side,” Sviggum answered. “But I fight to be on his side!” There were approving nods around the table and Sviggum continued with renewed enthusiasm. “I think we should pray for wisdom, principles, and ideas. Of course, we want like-minded people to stand with us.” Slowly, he warmed to the question, and finally ended with the hard numbers: “If you look at demographics, we should probably have seventy-four, seventy-five seats in the House.”

    With that, Hall stood again. “Who wants to pray for the speaker?” Two women from the Cannon Falls group reached out and grasped Sviggum’s hands. Hall maneuvered behind him and rested a hand on Sviggum’s shoulder. All closed their eyes. “Lord, anoint Steve’s words with your wisdom,” the woman on his right prayed. “Anoint him with strength to make your will known and real.” In response, the room was filled with spontaneous whispers. “Yes, yes, yessss!” The prayer lasted five minutes, and included blessings for the speaker, his family, his issues, and the Republican agenda. After the final “amen,” Sviggum smiled broadly. “I—I feel stronger,” he said breathlessly. “And more comforted.”

    Hall stepped forward to get Sviggum on his way. “I know the speaker has a busy schedule,” he said again.

    Sviggum nodded. “I sure wish I could spend my whole day with you,” he said. As he departed, he gave the room a big thumbs-up.

    ***

    The Town Talk Cafe and Coffee Bar is located around the corner from Main Street in the central Minnesota town of Willmar. It is a crowded, stifling place, where the coffee tastes like burnt water, the ceiling is yellowed from smoke, and dice tumble across Formica. The Town Talk is also where, for the last thirty-one years, Dean Johnson, the Democratic majority leader of the Minnesota Senate, has enjoyed his Saturday morning breakfast with friends that range from a bison farmer to the guy who plows his driveway (the latter refers to Johnson as “numb nuts” to visiting reporters). On a Saturday in March, the mood is jovial and a little raw. Everyone is the subject of a joke, and Johnson usually joins with a giggle totally at odds with his otherwise rich, stentorian voice and his fifty-seven years. Yet despite Johnson’s obvious affection for the venue and its patrons, he is not entirely present. In between ribbings about, say, some guy named Taco Olson, he surreptitiously checks his cell phone beneath the table. Nobody seems to mind, though, because it’s a wonder that Johnson has time for the Town Talk at all. In addition to being the majority leader of the Minnesota Senate, Dean Johnson is a pastor in the Evangelical Lutheran Church of America, a brigadier general in the United States National Guard, and the National Guard’s top-ranking chaplain.

    Yet there is an ironic twist to Johnson’s accomplished career as a minister. In the Minnesota Legislature, his moderate Lutheranism, which he defines as “a religion of devotion and tolerance,” is the exception among religiously motivated Christian legislators. And so Senator Dean Johnson, once a self-described “Eisenhower Republican” and a long-serving Senate Republican leader, is now the most unlikely of Democratic leaders: a rural pro-life minister with an esteemed military career.

    “The divisions really started in 1993 with the gay rights amendment to the state’s Human Rights Act,” Speaker Steve Sviggum told me. “I think what happened was that Johnson had told his Senate [Republican] caucus one thing, and then proceeded to the Senate floor and did another.” In 1993, Johnson was in his eleventh year as a state senator, but only a year into his tenure as the Senate Republican leader, a post he obtained as a moderate, consensus candidate. Meanwhile, Minnesota’s Republican Party had just elected a number of social conservatives to the Legislature, including current Senator Steve Dille and Senator Linda Runbeck (since retired). The clash was not long in coming. Early in the session that year, Democrats in the House and Senate introduced legislation amending Minnesota’s Human Rights Act to include gays and lesbians as a class protected from discrimination in housing and employment. As the Republican Senate leader, Johnson was widely expected to oppose it.

    “At the time, I really didn’t know what I’d do,” Johnson recalls as he drives through Willmar after breakfast. “But I kept hearing from people who were saying things like,”—here, Johnson’s voice drops—“‘My daughter … y’know?’” So, just before the speech, he jotted some notes based on personal experience onto a napkin. “As a Norwegian Lutheran,” he began, directly addressing the gay and lesbian community, “I simply do not understand what you do in your quiet times, in your moments of privacy.” Then, very quickly he shifted to a reflection on his role as a National Guard chaplain, and the 180 religious denominations recognized by the U.S. military. “I will tell you that some of these denominations I do not understand. I do not begin to understand their theology,” he continued. “But the fact remains that I took an oath of office that, as a member of the Chaplain Corps, it is my job and responsibility to ensure everyone—Protestant, Catholic, Jew, atheist—the free exercise of religion.” Concluding, Johnson returned to his service as a senator. “Even though I don’t fully understand the … homosexual lifestyle, I think it is prudent … that we vote as a majority to give rights to the minority.”

    The last frustrated minute of Johnson’s speech presaged the course of his split, seven years later, with the Republicans. As Republican leader, he found himself catering to a caucus whose agenda increasingly was devoted to social conservative issues, rather than the practical and pragmatic quality-of-life issues—such as transportation, housing, and education—that Johnson found more pressing. “We deal more with moral issues in the Senate than I did as a full-time parish pastor in Willmar,” he concluded. “I want you to think about that. I want the people of Minnesota to think about that.” Then, as now, he blamed some legislators for obsessing over social issues, distracting Minnesotans from more urgent needs.

    Johnson managed to remain the Republican Senate leader for most of the 1990s, but his unwillingness to legislate conservative social issues placed him at odds with the growing influence of social conservatives in the Republican Party. “Eventually, Dean wasn’t even welcome to walk in the parade with the [Kandiyohi County] Republican party unit,” recalled Democratic Representative Al Juhnke of Willmar. “They wouldn’t even hang his banners.” As the 2000 election approached, Johnson and other political observers in Willmar thought it likely that he would be challenged in the Republican primary. “And I just wasn’t going to subject myself to that,” Johnson told me.

    Even five years after his party switch, the bitterness toward Johnson has persisted among social conservatives. They view him as a traitor not only to his party, but also to the Lutheran church. In 2004, when Johnson single-handedly prevented legislation prohibiting gay marriage from reaching the floor of the Minnesota Senate, the sense of betrayal again became personal. “What’s so amazing is that Senator Dean Johnson, an ordained Lutheran minister, would actually be leading the charge against protecting the civil institution of marriage,” proclaimed Tom Prichard, president of the influential and conservative Minnesota Family Council. “What Lutheran and other Christian traditions say about the importance of marriage to society would lead one to think he’d be leading the charge to protect marriage from attacks.” Prichard’s comments are representative of the feelings that many legislators on the right have for Johnson. However, of twenty Republican legislators contacted for this article, only one—Speaker Steve Sviggum—would comment on Johnson for the record.

    Chaplain Dan Hall’s Wednesday prayer meeting attracts a range of high-powered guests, including lobbyists, but the group is most animated when legislators stop in to visit and pray. Thus, when Republican Representative Larry Howes of Walker was introduced, everyone straightened in their seats. “What you’re doing makes a difference here at the Capitol,” Howes began. “It may not always seem that way, but I can assure you that your prayers are heard.”

    “What’s your passion?” Hall asked.

    “Politics,” Howes answered, before transitioning into a detailed policy discussion about what’s really on his mind—namely, a nursing home in his district that is in danger of losing its state funding. “It’s a big payroll, and the loss of that would devastate our local economy,” he said.

    The formerly gay man raised his hand. “Should we pray that the governor will sign the bill for the nursing home?”

    “Sure,” Howes replied. “Yeah.”

    He then launched into another passion, concerning a letter someone had sent to Republican Representative Paul Gazelka, which disapproved of his support for a measure that would ban gay marriage. According to Howes, the author works for the Crow Wing County Human Services Department. “And I want you to know that I’ve already looked into de-funding that agency,” he announced with a pointed look at Hall.

    According to an online resume, Dan Hall has no formal religious training nor even a formal ordination, despite serving as an assistant pastor, administrative pastor, associate pastor, and senior pastor to four congregations dating back to 1982. This is not unusual. Among some Pentecostals and members of other independent, evangelical denominations, there is an institutional suspicion of formal religious training, and many of their church leaders are not ordained, at least not in accredited seminaries or divinity schools. Instead, they are accepted as spiritual leaders on the basis of their faith, leadership, and charisma. Hall, a married father of eight, seems to have established himself in that tradition and done quite well. In addition to being founder and executive director of Midwest Chaplains and its Capitol Prayer Network, he is city chaplain of Burnsville, where he ministers to police and emergency services personnel.

    Hall claims his voluntary ministry at the Capitol began after House Chaplain Lonnie Titus told him “he couldn’t handle it all on his own.” In contrast, Titus claims that Hall approached him about getting involved at the Capitol. Regardless of whose idea it was, nobody disputes that Hall’s Capitol ministry began in the fall of 2001, when he stationed himself outside the Senate chambers and introduced himself to members. Four years later, his routine hasn’t changed much. “I come down to the Capitol after the traffic,” Hall explains. “And I begin my route.” He starts on the top floor of the State Office Building. “I peek my head into offices, say hello to staff and legislators and just see where that goes. I see what I can do to help, and I always try to bring God into it.” When he is not busy with the individual needs of legislators and staff, Hall conducts “prayer tours” of the Capitol for groups interested in praying at the usual tour stops, such as the Senate chambers.

    Hall also maintains an email list of “Capitol intercessors” whom he contacts with specific prayer requests when a “moral or spiritual issue” such as abortion, gay rights, or methamphetamine use arises. “I’ve been told that because I’m a chaplain I must be a Republican,” Hall admitted. “I’m more conservative, yes, but really what I’m doing is based on Biblical truth. I call it ‘political evangelism,’ but it’s not politics.”

    Lonnie Titus disputes Hall’s depiction of his ministry. “I serve as a chaplain to all of the people [at the House of Representatives],” Titus explained. “But Dan, he’s the front guy if you’re pro-life, pro-marriage.” The distinction is important and legal. For Dan Hall’s ministry to be granted federal 501(c)(3) tax-exempt status as a nonprofit organization it must meet several criteria, one of the most important being that it “may not attempt to influence legislation as a substantial part of its activities”—even, presumably, if that means influencing God to influence legislation. Bluntly, the regulations prohibiting religious organizations from explicit political advocacy do not allow for much interpretation, and Hall—otherwise a literalist in Scriptural matters—knows it. “A lot of pastors don’t stand up for issues and that’s how we got into the mess that we’re in today,” Hall said. “They’re all worried about losing their ‘tax-exempt.’” Intentionally or not, Chaplain Dan Hall and his supporters at the Legislature may be redefining the boundaries of religious political advocacy in Minnesota.

    ***

    Calvary Lutheran Church in Willmar is a yellow brick building topped by a rounded copper roof and a single spire. For thirty-one years Dean Johnson has served as a pastor to its congregants. “It’s really been a sanctuary for me,” he explains as he opens the church’s back door, which has a fallout shelter sign posted on it. “From politics and the military.” Inside, a narrow, short corridor ends with doors that offer a glimpse into the church’s sanctuary. On the left, an American flag poster with “God Bless America” printed across the bottom is taped to a wooden door, which also bears an engraved plastic nameplate reading “Pastor Dean E. Johnson.”

    The walls of Johnson’s office are covered with certificates, awards, news clippings, and photos of Johnson with a range of political luminaries. A highboy is piled with Bibles, prayer books, condolence cards, and a board game called The Amen Game! Opposite, two desks are crammed with paperwork, more Bibles, more prayer books, photos from confirmation classes, an open can of Mountain Dew, and an unopened bag of Fritos. “In the spirit of the separation of church and state, I maintain two phones,” Johnson says. “One for the business of the state, and one for the business of the Lord.” They sit on the edge of a desk, one black, one white.

    Dean Johnson was born in Lanesboro, Minnesota, and grew up on the Johnson family farm, homesteaded in 1858. “You worked hard,” Johnson recalls, “from five a.m. until eight at night.” For grades one through six, he went to a one-room schoolhouse, and then graduated from Lanesboro’s public high school. Along with education and work, religion played a central role in Johnson family life. “I wouldn’t say we wore our faith on our sleeve,” Johnson explains. “We attended church every Sunday, and as children we’d have evening devotional time.” Johnson vividly remembers his mother hanging plaques with religious verses on the walls. “The religion was one of devotion and not of judgment,” he says. “It was one of grace, one of forgiveness.”

    After earning a business degree from Luther College in Decorah, Iowa, in 1969, Johnson attended Luther Theological Seminary in St. Paul and graduated with a Master of Divinity degree in 1973. During an internship at a parish in Seattle, he was seriously thinking about military life, particularly due to the Vietnam War. Fortuitously, he met a former Army chaplain who introduced him to the Chaplain Candidate Program. The requirements were straightforward: good grades, a successful physical, a background check, and the endorsement of a denomination (in Johnson’s case, the Evangelical Lutheran Church of America). The duties of a chaplain, meanwhile, were complicated: “First and foremost, you ensure the free exercise of religion for all men and women in uniform,” he explains. “As a practical matter, you console members of the military and their families, officiate at memorials and funerals, officiate at weddings, teach courses.”
    Today, Johnson is a brigadier general in charge of all 752 National Guard chaplains. He reports directly to Major General David Hicks, chief of chaplains to the United States Army. “I work on doctrine, deployments, strategies,” Johnson explains. “I also work on reunion issues for returning soldiers, and chemical dependency issues, too.” Above all, Johnson is responsible for ensuring that every National Guard soldier has access to a spiritual advisor of his or her creed. “It’s our role to be accessible to every religious group,” explains Hicks in a phone call from Fort Jackson, South Carolina. “Dean’s a Protestant, not a Muslim, but he would doggedly pursue the Muslim chaplain if the circumstances demanded it.”

    Johnson spent more than one hundred days on military business in 2004; in addition, he spent five months in St. Paul fulfilling his duties as a state senator. Yet he still relishes his part-time role at Calvary Church, where he performs a range of duties, including baptisms, pre-nuptial counseling, weddings, and occasionally serving as preacher and liturgist. “Also, I speak to the Adult Education Forum,” he says.

    The forum is held after services in a large basement meeting room. On one end is a darkened chapel; on the other is a room where elderly congregants receive blood pressure checks. In the middle, about fifty elderly congregants are seated with coffee, bread, and jam. Pastor Johnson steps to the pulpit. Today’s topic is the grieving process, something Johnson has come to know intimately, all too recently. Avonelle, his wife of twenty-one years, died just three weeks before the forum, after a five-year struggle with breast cancer. Johnson stands with his hands crossed on the lectern and talks to the congregants—his congregants of thirty-one years—without notes. He speaks with a steady, riveting cadence. The cooks in the kitchen emerge and stand against door posts; the blood pressure technician emerges and takes a seat at a corner table. Johnson talks of “bringing emotions into sync with thoughts,” and then he opens Janis Amatuzio’s book, Forever Yours, and reads an account of a woman’s near-death ascent to the “dazzling light” of heaven. As he does, tears slip down his otherwise implacable face.

    “Now, the hard part.”

    Avonelle Johnson spent her last days in a hospice across the street from Calvary Lutheran Church. Eight days before she died, her husband was seated beside her bed when she suddenly told him, “It’ll be OK.”

    “‘What’ll be OK?’ I asked,” Johnson recalls. “And Avonelle said to me, ‘You know.’”

    Johnson didn’t, and so Avonelle continued. “I saw the bright lights. I saw my mom and dad.”

    Johnson, looking out at his congregants through tears, admits, “About that time, I start to look around. I’d only been drinking coffee!” He pauses, his posture rigid. “I start to look around and outside the white snow is soft and gentle. I looked outside and everything was OK.” He takes a deep breath and credits Amatuzio’s book with giving him the courage to talk about his conversation with Avonelle. Then his voice chokes, but he says with determination, “One day we will see the face of God and we will be reunited with our loved ones. That is the faith we live with.”

    Bishop Jon Anderson oversees the Southwestern Regional Synod for the Evangelical Lutheran Church of America, including Calvary Lutheran Church. “I personally have found Dean’s journey—this journey of losing his wife—to be inspiring as I’ve walked it with him,” Anderson said to me. “Lutherans like to talk about callings. Well, I saw a man caring for his wife at a very difficult time and carrying on his other vocations.”

    After the forum, Johnson returns to his office and gathers his belongings. “You’ll never hear a political opinion from me on Sunday morning,” he says. “That’s for Monday morning.” Likewise, it is rare that Johnson will invoke faith at the Capitol; there, as a legislator, his primary passion is transportation funding. When I ask him to describe what he believes is the proper role of religion in public life, he lays out his priorities without a moment’s hesitation: “OK, first, what is in the best interests of the people of Minnesota? Second, what is in the best interest of my district? And thirdly, and most difficult, what do you or I think about it, in regard to policy, policy change, and what are the moral and ethical considerations that surround it?” He smiles and reverts to politics. “If you can justify to your bosses—namely, your constituents—why you think the way you do, and vote the way you do, you’ll be all right.” He has no further thoughts on the subject.

    I ask Johnson if he knows Chaplain Dan Hall, and his answer is a clipped, two-syllable slap: “Oh, yeah.” Though Johnson is not aware of Hall’s prayer meetings, he does know of a weekly Bible study gathering attended by roughly twenty conservative legislators, staff, and Hall in a third-floor State Office Building committee room. I mention to Johnson that I’d attended two of those meetings. In both cases, it included the reading of two New Testament chapters and a discussion that very much took it as given that the Scriptures were literally the word of God. “I went once,” Johnson says. “And the room was filled with judgment and an errant interpretation of the Scriptures.” When I suggest that the people in the room wouldn’t exactly agree with such sentiments, Johnson shrugs. “No one person, no one theologian, no one pastor has the corner on the market to suggest that they are all right and everybody else is a bunch of sinful suckers. I just don’t see theology and religion playing out that way, as evidenced by the 180 denominations I deal with in the military.” Johnson espouses tolerance as a philosophy, but he has a difficult time extending it in this instance. “I try to be accepting and respectful of those folks, but it’s when they cross the line and portray that they’re better than the rest of us, that their little corner of religious practice is better than the rest of us, that’s when I become—” Johnson catches himself. “Well, we’re going to live in a pluralistic society, and we do have freedoms and the Constitution.”

    ***

    The last guest at Chaplain Dan Hall’s Wednesday prayer meeting was Duane Coleman, vice president for Development at the Colin Powell Youth Leadership Center in South Minneapolis. Supported by organizations like Best Buy, ADC, and General Mills, the center is a $12.6 million South Minneapolis project designed to help inner-city youth acquire secondary-school educations. Duane Coleman has been a repeat guest at Dan Hall’s prayer gatherings, and when he arrived on this day, Hall encouraged him to describe the results of the prayers he’d received the week before.

    Coleman said that, before last week, only the Senate version of the new bonding bill included cash for the Colin Powell Youth Leadership Center. “So I came last week and we prayed over this,” Coleman explained. “And somehow, through divine favor, the money ended up in the House bill, too.”
    A late arrival, a woman in the back of the room, raised her hand. “Is your group Christian?”

    Coleman nodded vigorously. “Yes.”

    “So what are we praying for today?”

    “Success in conference committee!” Coleman replied.

    Like many before him, Coleman stood before the group with his eyes closed as the Cannon Falls ladies and Myrna Howes prayed for him. “Lord, my husband is a legislator and I know he received a lot of letters on behalf of this saying it won’t do anything,” Howes intoned. “Well, I hope those letters to turn to dust.”
    With that, the meeting was over. The group quickly dispersed into dimly lit Capitol hallways filled with legislators on their way to lunch. Charlotte Herzog, however, stopped to tell me how much she appreciates Dan Hall’s ministry at the Capitol. “You know,” she said. “Prayer is just so much more effective than all those committee hearings and meetings.”

     

  • The Man in the Chair

    Tom Brokaw and Dan Rather have retired, Ted Koppel’s on his way out at Nightline, and Peter Jennings’s future is uncertain due to his health. As many have opined over the past couple of months, the era of the mighty network anchor appears to be coming to an end. Viewers suffering withdrawal from their favorite friend-in-the-box might find a meaningful substitute in CNN’s Aaron Brown, who combines serious reportage with an ego that’s still modest enough to fit within the camera frame. The Hopkins native began his journalism career at WLOL 1330 AM in Minneapolis three decades ago. Since then he has risen through the reportorial ranks to host CNN’s flagship evening news broadcast and serves as lead anchor for breaking news. Last month, Brown—who attended the University of Minnesota for a year, and never acquired a bachelor’s degree—appeared at the U Alumni Association’s Annual Celebration.

    With a few weeks of perspective on it, do you have any second thoughts about the wall-to-wall coverage of the Terri Schiavo story?

    I thought it was a great cable story. The nature of twenty-four-hour news is that it is available when people have time to watch it. If you wanted to know what was going on in the Terri Schiavo case at eight at night, we did it, and we did it at ten o’clock for people who wanted to know then. People get all exercised about this, but it’s a perfectly appropriate way for us to do journalism—[especially with] this story, because it mattered on a lot of levels. We all confront these questions of life and death and living wills, and whether modern medicine will keep us alive past the point where we want. Or is that even an appropriate question—should we simply die at a time of God’s choosing? The story, on some level, touched everyone.

    It also had a political dimension. To me what’s interesting about it is that it’s the best evidence we have that one of the few things Americans agree about as a people is that they don’t want government involved with this. That’s true of an overwhelming majority, whether they’re Republicans or Democrats, evangelicals, atheists, Jews, or Catholics. People were saying, “This is best handled at the lowest level, this should be handled with families, in communities, or in a local court. It should not be handled in Congress.”

    What does your audience get from having an anchor on location?

    I’m a reporter at heart, and whatever ground I touch, I hope I bring something to that story. It’s what I’ve done since I was fourteen years old. You can’t “get it” sitting here in New York all the time. Some things you can do by phone and satellite, but you can’t appreciate the damage the tsunami did in Aceh until you smell, literally, that place, and meet those people. And in some respects, you can’t appreciate what we went through with the pope without being in St. Peter’s Square. I think it brings texture to a story. It changes the way I write it. It changes the way I talk about it.

    What’s it like to have, say, five thousand bloggers checking your facts on the Internet?

    I have no problem at all with five thousand fact-checkers—the more, the merrier. We go on the air each night believing that we are factually accurate, so checking facts is not a problem to me. The problem with bloggers is, who’s checking the bloggers? One of the traditional and important roles of the press, which some people lovingly refer to as the mainstream media, was to act as gatekeeper. Not every fallacious or untrue accusation made it to air. These days, in the era of the Internet, the role of gatekeeper is pretty much gone.

    What happens without a gatekeeper?

    In the Schiavo case, there was this memo that Republican senators got [that outlined how the GOP might benefit from the situation], and then a group of conservative bloggers started to write that it was phony, that Democrats had actually written the memo and that they were trying to embarrass Republicans. So that becomes news, but it’s not true. And it turned out to be demonstrably untrue. But people start to talk about it, and then Fox News talks about it, and all of the sudden something that has absolutely no basis in fact becomes part of a story. In another time, someone would actually check that before they reported it. Today we just kind of vomit out information—I mean the Net does—and it seeps its way into broader media coverage dangerously. So if you want to talk about fact-checkers, God bless ’em. I hope they check every word we report every day, and I hope they’re equally careful with every word they report.

    What do you think of the rise of popular opinionated news outlets like Fox News Channel?

    I’ve talked about this a lot in the last year. We seem to be in a time when too many people just want to hear that which they agree with—whether it’s Iraq or Terri Schiavo or anything, honestly. Fox is part of that, but, believe me, I hear it on the left all the time, too. For democracy—not to get too highfalutin on you, we are Minnesotans, after all—but for democracy, that’s a very dangerous place to be.

    Why is that?

    Because a successful democracy requires a citizenry that is informed. And to be informed requires that you understand the breadth of an argument or an issue. It’s not enough to just say, “They lied to us about the intelligence,” for example. Rarely are things that clear. Because I’m in the business of presenting complicated stuff in the most objective way I can, my world would be a lot easier if people sat back and listened to the range of argument, and did it in a kind of civil way rather than [saying], “He’s an idiot,” or, “He’s a traitor,” or, “He’s a whore.” These are all things I’ve probably been called today … over nothing. [And] this has been a good day!

  • Letters to the Editor

    LETTER OF THE MONTH

    The Rake expresses surprise [The Broken Clock, May] that for the last
    forty-seven years, Playboy Magazine has neglected to include “best Jazz
    Musician” in its music poll. Yet I’m sure I’m not the only reader old
    enough to remember when the Playboy music poll was exclusively a jazz
    poll. Jim Hall battled with Kenny Burrell for best guitarist, Sonny
    Rollins went head-to-head with John Coltrane and Pharoah Sanders on
    tenor sax, and pianists as diverse stylistically as Bill Evans,
    Thelonious Monk, and McCoy Tyner vied for top honors. I can well
    remember my disappointment and discomfiture when the Ginger Bakers and
    Eric Claptons of this world began to make their mark in the poll, to
    the extent that eventually Playboy changed the name from the Jazz Poll
    to the Jazz & Pop Poll. Having Bob Dylan and John Lennon alongside
    Duke Ellington and Charlie Parker in the “Playboy Jazz Hall of Fame”
    made no sense musically, however. Bitches Brew was a definite
    watershed, making it clear to all jazz musicians that they needed to
    take up funk fusion or risk marginalizing themselves—that is to say,
    losing out on the big bucks associated with the youth market. Well,
    jazz has not been a mainstream art form since the 50s. Yet it not only
    survives, but develops. Jason Moran is one of those “experimental”
    artists who can be thrilling in a club, even if their recordings tend
    to be moody, jangling, and perversely difficult. A nice artist to
    feature in your magazine.

    John Toren,
    Minneapolis

    CLOSE CALLS

    First, my compliments on the article about Moussaoui’s would-be flight
    training [“The Grounded Man,” May], it was fascinating. Next, major
    props to Brad Zeller’s adroitly written, hilarious article about
    buffets [Discomfort Food, May]. If he will pardon my expression, I
    laughed so hard I nearly “lost my cookies.” Keep up the mix of serious,
    ridiculous, and sublime.

    Cameron De Smidt
    Murrieta, CA

    “A” STANDS FOR ANONYMOUS

    I was dismayed to see Dean Staley break an AA member’s anonymity in his
    story [“The Grounded Man,” May]. According to AA guidelines, we must
    protect the anonymity of all AA members particularly at the level of
    press, radio, and TV. The fact that Clancy is a recovering alcoholic is
    up to him to disclose- his membership in AA is a different matter.
    Principles of the twelve-step program are promoted over personalities.

    Donna,
    Olympia, WA

    NO EXCUSE

    Clancy Prevost and the local FBI office acted fast during the critical
    weeks preceding 9/11. Meanwhile, urgent requests to FBI headquarters
    for a special warrant to search Moussaoui’s computer languished- even
    though local agents provided evidence that Moussaoui was connected to
    al-Qaida. The bureaucratic bumbling is even more inexcusable in light
    of the harvest of information obtained from one of the original World
    Trade Center bombers. In addition to the spotlight on Bin Laden, FBI
    headquarters had additional warnings in the memo from the Phoenix
    office concerning the potential danger posed by foreign students taking
    flying lessons in the area. It was nothing less than a tragic betrayal
    of the resources and trust placed with the FBI.

    Steve Dietrich,
    Lompoc, CA

    FIGHTIN’ WORDS

    Clinton Collins’ column [April] would have been more credible if he had
    announced his intentions plainly in the first line. Something like,
    “I’m a supporter of Natalie Johnson Lee and this column is my
    contribution to her campaign.” Instead he proceeded to do a hatchet job
    on Don Samuels while shamelessly extolling the virtues of his- sorry, I
    mean the other- candidate. I can see no other rationale for him taking
    Don Samuels’ comments and twisting them so out of context that noble
    words become self-indicting smears. That takes real journalistic moxie.
    But what is even more disturbing is to see him give so much comfort to
    all the white racists out there. They know full well how to keep the
    voices of the black community from being taken seriously—get them
    fighting each other. Mr. Collins column is so rife with race-baiting
    remarks (of his own invention) as to supply ample ammunition for
    anyone, black or white,
    who would like to see this campaign fought not over the issues but over
    “who is the one legitimate black leader,” as if blacks don’t deserve
    diversity of personalities and perspectives serving them. The real
    racism in this campaign, which Collins give scant space to is why, when
    we finally get two black leaders, are they put in the position of
    having to bump each other off? The only reason I can see for him to
    cast aside his journalistic pride and take such a low road, torturing
    the truth, distorting the facts, and ignoring context to support his
    obvious bias, is that Mr. Collins too would like to be a political
    player on the North side. Well, I’m sure his column has ensured him a
    place at the table of Natalie Johnson Lee and company. But Mr. Collins
    should be careful. In the game of race politics in which he has chosen
    to participate, the casualties are heavy—especially for those who are
    deemed not “black enough.” Mr. Collins had better be sure of his own
    credentials.

    Jonathan Odell,
    Minneapolis

    COMING TO TERMS

    While I applaud any publicity for wind energy (given that I work in the
    renewable energy industry), I have two comments [on “Buffalo Ridge,”
    April]. First, the picture shows Dan Juhl holding up a light bulb using
    a contorted hand gesture to hide the wiring, making a unique picture.
    Unfortunately, the bulb is a one- to-two percent efficient incandescent
    bulb with technology circa the late 1800s. Wind energy means nothing
    without energy efficiency. A compact fluorescent light bulb lasts ten
    times as long and is ten times as efficient. Wind energy growth must
    exceed forty percent over the next twenty years just to keep pace with
    predicted electricity demand increases. Americans are truly gluttons
    for energy (Minnesota consumes more gasoline than India). Second, the
    phrase “Saudi Arabia of wind energy” is entirely overused, similar to
    the way we use the term “foreign oil dependency.” I often wonder if we
    mean to include the “despotic monarchy” part as much as the “rich in
    oil” part of the Saudi Arabia metaphor, given our current political
    direction.

    Mike Taylor,
    Saint Paul

  • A Passion of Patience

    Watching people in museums is often as absorbing as studying the displays. Some years ago, my old tutor was standing under the great sixth-century dome of the Holy Wisdom in Istanbul, lecturing to a rather tweedy group of English country gentry. His audience was starting to suffer from museum leg, when a pigeon detached itself from the marble cornice and flapped in a leisurely way across to the gallery where once Byzantine empresses worshipped, encased in pearls and purple. Instinctively, one of the tweeds lifted his umbrella to his right shoulder and sighted along its shaft. He nearly dropped it in surprise: “Good God,” he said, “bloody thing’s out of shot.” After that, the party had a healthier respect for the grandeur of this great fane.

    Other museum-goers are moved by a hunger for information rather than an atavistic instinct for field sports. See how some people spend substantially more time reading the didactic label on the wall than they do confronting the complexity of the work it interprets. Such folk should find joy if they go to see the St. John’s Bible, numerous sheets of which are on display at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts (until July 3), together with plenty of explanatory props: quill pens, penknives, even photographs of the sheep-surrounded scriptorium in Wales where the scribes commissioned by St. John’s Abbey in Collegeville, Minnesota, penned this, the first handwritten Bible in half a millennium.

    For at this exhibition, the urge to read rather than to look leads the eye not to the (excellent) supporting information but to the texts of the Bible pages themselves, written in real time to be read in real time. The pleasure of contemplating these great creamy white sheets (about two feet high and two and a half feet wide when spread out) is like the pleasure of watching an artist sketching in the open air; you are drawn to take part in his art, though in this case you fall into the rhythm of his work not by actually seeing him marking the regular black text with his goose quill, but by following with the eye the dance of the text across the page. Such watching induces a passion of patience.

    Of course, too, there is looking in addition to reading, for it is the illuminations that catch the eye. They light up the text with multiple colors and associations. Alongside the Parable of the Sower is a figure who might have walked straight out of a Byzantine Gospel-book with his round halo and imperial purple tunic, except that this nether man is clad in something that looks mighty like the blue jeans of a Stearns County bachelor farmer. The butterflies are delightful (as butterflies always are), and gold leaf makes Christ at the Transfiguration appear to be entirely made of light.

    But for all their glory, it is to the text that the pictures bring you back. One visitor was overheard to say she had found the exhibition so interesting that when she got home she was going to find a Bible and read it. If the manuscript has this effect on many people, the monks of St. John’s will surely feel they were right to commission it.

    Scripture, said Gregory the Great, is a stream where lambs may wade and elephants may swim. A friend was telling me the other day about the meetings of the Jesus Seminar, a group of scholars whose assumptions I do not entirely share (why assume that miracles do not happen?), but who had the admirable aim of analyzing the Gospels to work out what Jesus actually said and did. They also had the good sense to set up their headquarters in the Sonoma Valley north of San Francisco, so that after a hard day’s analyzing they could visit the venerable vineyard of Gundlach-Bundschau, in existence since 1857 (though it grew pears during Prohibition).

    You can enjoy a vicarious visit by drinking their Bearitage, Lot no. 11, a red wine available locally for about $12. They call this “California claret,” because like the great reds of Bordeaux it is a blend of several grapes. The analytical palate will detect the round sweetness of Zinfandel, the blandness of Merlot, the long slow tannins of Cabernet Sauvignon (which will give this wine the capacity to keep, though it is also nice now). Analysis is enlightening but not necessary. This wine is more than the sum of its parts; with a steak it told a coherent and convincing story, one which I think would please anyone who has red wine running in his veins.