Year: 2005

  • Rick Bass

    No other living American writer can drop us into the wild, wild West or a Texas countryside like Rick Bass. Writing with empathy and great humility, he makes characters we can touch; we meet them in Montana valleys or while trespassing on a Texas ranch. His newest effort, The Diezmo, combines those qualities with gorgeous desert-landscape love scenes. The Diezmo also feels darker than Bass’s previous efforts; it’s a re-creation of a murderous history along the Texas-Mexico border that conjures Cormac McCarthy’s All the Pretty Horses.

  • Fran Lebowitz

    Before there was David Sedaris, Sarah Vowell, or even, for crying out loud, Dave Barry, there was Fran Lebowitz, a caustic, chain-smoking New Yorker who came on like a cross between Oscar Wilde and Dorothy Parker. In the seventies, Lebowitz was nothing less than a Manhattan celebrity; her Social Studies and Metropolitan Life were best sellers, and she was frequently a hugely entertaining talk show guest. God knows what happened, but the woman clammed up and disappeared. Until we got wind of this rare surfacing, we’d assumed Lebowitz had fallen off the planet. We’re more than a little curious to hear what she’s been up to, and what she thinks of the world she seems to have left behind. And also whether she’ll light up on stage at the Fitz. 651-290-1221, www.fitzgeraldtheater.org

  • Isabel Allende

    Year after year, this lecture series brings in some of literature’s heaviest hitters, and yet somehow maintains a surprisingly low profile. Isabel Allende, May’s featured author, is a former journalist and the niece of slain Chilean President Salvador Allende, who was overthrown in a CIA-assisted coup in 1973. Since her first novel, 1985’s The House of Spirits, Allende has garnered international acclaim for a dozen books that are distinguished by their powerful female characters, connections across generations, and rich historical detail. Her latest, a novel on the legend of Zorro, is due this month. Adath Jeshurun Congregation, 10500 Hillside Lane, Minnetonka; 952-847-8637

  • Ann Beattie

    A new Ann Beattie book is no longer the event it once was, which is something of a shame. She’s been kicking out such consistently accomplished fiction for so long now that it’s become easy to take her for granted. When she first made her name with a series of New Yorker stories in the seventies, Beattie was most often compared to older writers of frigid urban realism like the Johns Cheever and Updike, or her contemporary, Raymond Carver. Nearly thirty years later those comparisons are still in the ballpark; Beattie’s mastered an economy of style and a terse, emotional shorthand that often masks her versatility. She has an uncanny feel for the way real people talk, and her subtle descriptions of the idiosyncrasies, neuroses, and frequent sense of disconnection that bedevil her characters are as timely as ever.

  • Nicole Krauss

    While Jonathan Safran Foer just made New York Press’s “50 Most Loathsome New Yorkers” list, Ms. Krauss would likely beg to differ; she married him. What does this have to do with Krauss’s The History of Love, published just a month after Foer’s Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close? Quite a bit, it turns out, when you look between the covers. The following aptly describes both books: A very old Holocaust survivor who has spent his postwar life in tortured isolation trades chapters with a very clever young person who is on a journey across New York City to uncover a mystery. In both books, the journeyer’s mythically wonderful father has died young. Both books indulge in Internet-age visual play, with graphics and page layout trickery to enhance the story. Both have a distant and mournful mother whose children wander recklessly in a world proven unpredictable and cruel, as well as a man who, grief-stricken into silence, is reduced to yes-and-no gestures to communicate with a child. The similarities continue — Call it the single-mindedness of marriage, or something else, but Krauss is darn lucky she writes as well as her husband. Her book is completely engrossing, beautifully told, and, despite the above (not to mention its generic snooze of a title), quite original.

  • Letters to the Editor

    DO LITTLE
    Thank you for the auto magnets guide [the Rake’s Progress, April]. I had considered having one made that said, “Is this all I have to do?” Simple sentiment is right.
    Beadrin Urista
    Minneapolis

    SHOOTIN’ THE BREEZE
    I really enjoyed Maria Rubinstein’s article on the IRS’s image [the Rakish Angle, April]. And I know what the Alaska Permanent Fund is (I think): I believe that basically, if one has the cojones (or female-wise, cojonettes) to live in Alaska, you get like two hundred dollars a year from the government. I know this because I have a poet friend who lives outside of Fairbanks with a backyard big enough and remote enough that he shoots annoying books there. I asked him to shoot The Bridges of Madison County so I could give it back to a friend who made me read it “because you’re a writer” (Hey, smell this food: is it spoiled?) and he wanted confirmation that it sucked. When I read the whole dang book and found that indeed it did suck, he wouldn’t let me give it back to him. So I had it shot and returned to me, and I wrapped it up very prettily for Christmas. Would you like to become my friend?
    Miss Terri Ford
    Minneapolis

    BLOWN AWAY
    Thank you for the fine article on wind power [“Buffalo Ridge,” April]. It blew me away. Hooray for the Juhls. They are people who have committed their lives to their vision for the betterment of everyone. May NSP catch the spirit and may the wind be at their heels.
    John Newman
    Minneapolis

  • Wine for Graduates

    I have a colleague at the University of Minnesota who hates commencement. Marching in gowns and hoods to the boom of Elgar’s “Pomp and Circumstance” puts her in mind, she says, of the army. I hardly like to point out that most faculty marching would have its practitioners instantaneously in the guardroom were it ever perpetrated on a military parade ground.

    Besides, I cannot see students at a degree ceremony without thinking of the swink and toil that brought them there: the freezing evenings bicycling home to Uptown after three hours of night class; the utter frustration some encounter in trying to satisfy mathematical language requirements; and above all, the hours spent doing dull jobs like parking cars and turning hamburgers, hours that impress on students the repetitive and broadly approved message that it is more important to be on time for banausic employments than it is to live the life of the mind. There is an inscape to graduation that merits a certain amount of outward pomp and circumstance.

    Elgar, too, had an inscape. There are those who write him off as simply an English Sousa: “Delius is for the superselius, who think Elgar is velgar.” I disagree. The tuneful confidence of “Pomp and Circumstance” is only the surface of a composer who is altogether more enigmatic. You have only to listen to his Cello Concerto to find grand musical language being employed to express a distinctly abstract passion.

    No less complex, yet also more accessible, is his big choral piece The Dream of Gerontius. Elgar shared with Purcell a capacity for giving remarkable resonance to words that might otherwise not attract admiration. (Verdi, too—his best opera is the Requiem, because it is the one with the best book.) The Dream of Gerontius is a long poem by John Henry, Cardinal Newman describing the death of an early Christian, not a particular hero or a martyr, just geron tis—Greek for “a certain old man.” The first half happens at the deathbed; the second describes the old man’s onward progress after his passing. No doubt gentle readers will put me right (as several kindly did in the matter of World War II poets), but the only other piece of literature I can think of that has the hero die so early in the action is Charles Williams’s All Hallows Eve, a novel in which the protagonist perishes on the first page. Neither work, however, is in the least bit gloomy. Gerontius’s hopes and fears and acts of faith can indeed induce a certain vertigo. They show, if nothing else, that Elgar was no pompous extrovert; like the poet Gerard Manley Hopkins, he knew the “mind has mountains … hold them cheap may who ne’er hung there.”

    The idea of inscape was actually invented by Hopkins, an older contemporary of Elgar. Hopkins used it to indicate quintessence, what you see of something from the inside once you have made an act of commitment to it. One somehow doubts he applied the idea much to appreciation of the winemaker’s art—he was an ascetic soul who even, as an undergraduate, denied himself the use of the armchair during Lent—but there are few sensual experiences to which it is more applicable; once one has surveyed, sniffed, sipped, and swallowed one’s wine, commitment to it is complete!

    A claret came by me the other day that illustrates the point perfectly. The label on the characteristic Bordeaux bottle (with shoulders) said “Chateau des Agates 2003” and the fluid within, a clever blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, was a good deep red (and only about ten dollars a go). Drinking it made one aware not only of the inscape of the wine, but also of the architecture of one’s own senses. The smell and taste not only have structure in themselves, but they also raise awareness in the consumer of his own capacity to taste.

    Think of your mouth as some great pagan temple, say, the Pantheon at Rome, where they pour libations to the Gods. Take a sip of this claret and a good dry flavor swirls through the hall, followed by pleasant tannins against the teeth. Finally, an aromatic whiff rises into the vault of the palate, up and out through the nose, like smoke through the hole in the middle of the dome. The Gods breathe in and smile.

    This is very heartening wine. It would go well with roasted chestnuts or simple barbecue (not one which has been slathered with sweet sauces), the sort of celebration that should await any fresh graduate emerging from commencement. Prosit!

  • No Need to Scream

    King Charles I of England knew how to throw a feast. After one particularly sumptuous meal, the king’s French-born court chef debuted a new dish, a magical confection the consistency of fresh-fallen snow, yet uncommonly sweet and creamy. Charles, quite delighted, summoned the chef and requested that the recipe for the frozen delight be held in royal secrecy, and that it be served only in the king’s presence. Eventually Charles I fell out of favor and was beheaded by his people. See what happens when you don’t share your ice cream?

    Smooth or chunky, tangy or sweet, ice cream may be the one thing we all maintain a cold spot for in our warm, warm hearts. It’s not just the melty sweetness that endears us; it’s the sparking of delicious memories like running after an ice cream truck, or gazing through eight-year-old eyes at a lovely ball of vanilla flecked with the dark chocolate crumbs from a birthday cake. It’s about the agreeable challenge of choosing a flavor, and the pleasure of sitting on a patio with a double-stacked sugar cone and vainly damning the drips with an eager tongue. Ice cream might not even really be a food. Judging by the euphoric look on my two-year-old’s chocolate-swathed face, and by my own furtive efforts to excavate the best parts of the container before I fill the family bowls, ice cream may in fact be a drug.

    While the stingy King Charles plays a role in ice cream history and lore, he—or, rather, his chef—is not the unchallenged source. There is no definitive story about the origins of ice cream. The Roman emperor Nero was said to send runners into the mountains to procure ice for the fruity, creamy drinks he favored. It’s possible that Marco Polo witnessed the Chinese enjoying frosty ice treats and brought their recipe back to Italy. Catherine de Medici’s chefs may have imported the technique to France, but no one has provided conclusive proof.

    The origins of the ice cream cone may be easier to pin down. Italo Marchiony, a pushcart ice cream vendor in New York, grew tired of Wall Street customers breaking or walking off with his glass serving dishes. He began baking edible cookie-cups with sloping sides and flat bottoms as serving receptacles, and patented the idea in 1903. Nothing, however, provides exposure like a World’s Fair, and during the St. Louis fair of 1904, a Syrian immigrant selling waffles came to the aid of the harried ice cream vendor next door by fashioning “cornucopias.” A trend was born, and, as is the American Way, litigation ensued as multiple inventors came forth with varying ingredients and shapes for the inevitable cone.

    However you serve it—cone or cup, malt or shake—there are essentially two ways to prepare ice cream: with egg or without. Traditional ice cream has no eggs. It can be made with many other things, but generally features sugar, cream, and flavoring (like a dark, earthy vanilla bean); this type is sometimes called Philadelphia-style ice cream. The version made with eggs is generally known as custard or gelato. Along with the eggy distinction, custards are denser, as they are mixed with less air than traditional ice creams, which leads to their signature silky-smooth texture. Because custard is kept at a lower temperature than ice cream, it must be made fresh daily to maintain its consistency. Custard isn’t omnipresent in the Twin Cities, but many might be surprised to learn that our Midwestern neighbor, Milwaukee, considers itself “The Custard Capital of the World” and has magical little custard shacks on seemingly every corner.

    Locally, we are blessed with an ice cream culture that embraces our need to celebrate the return of warmth and sun. The transient nature of a frozen treat is a metaphor for our fleeting patio time, and so it’s with great relish that we herald the reopening of our favorite ice cream shops, eager to taste the new season’s flavors.

    There’d probably be street protests, however, if Sebastian Joe’s didn’t offer its raspberry chocolate chip year-round. It’s almost a Minneapolis institution, so much so that I’d recommend that Claes Oldenburg’s Spoonbridge & Cherry in the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden feature a lovin’ scoop. And God forbid you should leave Sebastian Joe’s without one of its mammoth versions of a Dilly Bar.

    For prestige, you might opt for Sonny’s ice cream. It’s highly regarded by many chefs in town, more than a few of whom commission exclusive flavors to serve in their establishments. The Crema Café, the headquarters of Sonny’s, is also a hot spot among the local gourmand crowd. Crema’s innovative flavor combinations—including strawberry balsamic and cucumber sake—have made the annual reopening a signature spring event.

    An izzy is a gift. With every order of ice cream from Izzy’s, you get a miniature additional scoop, called an izzy, perched prettily atop your order. Cake batter, cotton candy and other flavors of your childhood fantasies are freshly made in house, along with their thick and crunchy waffle cones, which have another gift, a lovely surprise, in the bottom.

    In its second year, the Pumphouse Creamery in South Minneapolis seems to be really hitting its stride. Here, the ice cream is made entirely with natural, local, and organic ingredients. Try the mesmerizing Guinness flavor or Kulfi, an aromatic and herbaceous mixture of pistachio, cardamom, and rosewater, while strolling the neighborhood.

    Custard lovers who don’t have the time for a junket to Milwaukee will want to go directly to Glaciers in Wayzata. It’s a tiny shop where a chef—yes, a chef—makes the magic. The daily custards are a marvel, but Glaciers’ true attractions are the custard pies and cakes (pumpkin spice for the holidays, peppermint twist for your birthday) that would put to shame the home efforts of most any of us.

    Licks Unlimited in Excelsior comes out of hibernation each May, when the smell of warm cones and the sound of the shop’s circling toy trains once again drift into the street. The customary line forms as generations mark the return of summer. People shuffle over from the movie theater across the street, and the sidewalks teem with strollers toasting the evening air with a mocha chip cone. Licks is the place my kids crave, and the bench out front is where you’ll often find me until that sad day in October … which we won’t dwell on right now. There’s a lot of ice cream to be eaten.

    Making your own ice cream has never been easier; solid ice cream machines can be found for around thirty dollars. Of course, the main reason to make your own is to get creative with flavors—a good place to start is by adding mint to strawberry or cayenne pepper to a good basic chocolate. Think of pairing up saffron and ginger, pine nuts and honey, plums and lemongrass; those brave enough might even venture toward Japanese favorites like ox tongue or chicken wing ice cream.

    Sebastian Joe’s 1007 W. Franklin Ave., Minneapolis, 612-872-5240. Sonny’s Crema Cafe 3403 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-824-3868. Izzy’s Ice Cream Cafe 2034 Marshall Ave., St. Paul, 651-603-1458; 825 Nicollet Mall, Minneapolis, 612-338-0022. Pumphouse Creamery 4754 Chicago Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612-825-2021. Glaciers Coffee & Custard 888 Superior Blvd., Wayzata, 952-473-8518. Licks Unlimited 31 Water St., Excelsior, 952-474-4791.

    Basic Ice Cream (Philly Style)

    2½ cups cream
    ¾ cup sugar
    2 T. vanilla extract

    Over medium heat, heat cream in heavy saucepan until small bubbles appear around the edges. Make sure not to boil. Remove from the heat and add sugar, stirring until it’s completely dissolved. Allow mixture to cool slightly and add vanilla. Cover and refrigerate until cold. Freeze in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. When adding thick flavorings or chunky bits, do so once the ice cream is semi-frozen. For firmer ice cream, transfer to a different container and freeze for around two hours.

  • Fort Donovan

    The entire apartment, which can’t be more than fifteen feet by fifteen, is visible from the front door: the makeshift sofa, the kitchen, the workshop, the “bedroom.” In fact, Dick Donovan’s apartment, where he’s lived since August, more closely resembles a fort. “On the second morning I lived here,” he recalls, “I fried eggs from bed and ate them in bed. And I thought either I am in heaven or I am in danger.” Indeed, the bed abuts a tiny gas stove. He’s mounted a tall window screen between the two, which acts as a grease shield and also keeps his blankets from catching fire.

    There’s a genuine artfulness to Donovan’s space. Not only is he a charcoal artist, a master Etch-A-Sketcher, and a collector of found art, but he built nearly every structure in the apartment by hand, including his platform bed, the clothes rail above it, and a swivel counter in the kitchen. He did this without making a single cut to the wood he retrieved from alleys and trash bins. All of his work is unique, some might even say Seussian. “I always deviate from my plans,” he explains. When not running deliveries for Leaning Tower of Pizza, he’s taking classes in carpentry. Donovan recently acquired a fixer-upper houseboat that’s anchored on the Mississippi. “It’s all I can think about now,” he says. “I’ve been building forts since I was a kid, starting with cushions and evolving into elaborate snow forts. That’s my fort on the river.”

    The aspects of the apartment Donovan didn’t build, he modified. The small refrigerator is mod-podged with old sewing patterns, as are patches above the door and fireplace. Yes, this tiny nook has a fireplace, in which he has placed a plug-in pile of fake logs. Some of the walls are framed with wooden yardsticks; all are painted, at least partly, ochre yellow, Donovan’s favorite color for walls. Sticking with the warm palette, his curtains are orange. His sofa is covered with a red blanket. “I like sunset colors,” he says. “Mellow tones. I find them relaxing.”

    A computer used to hang over the bed from chains, but as winter dragged on and his “life force drained,” he had to take it down. “The thought that it might fall on me was giving me insomnia,” says Donovan, who holds a psychology degree from the University of Minnesota. “Maybe this summer, I’ll put it back up.” Most of his other electronics are old and formerly discarded. They include a four-track recorder that “may work,” a turntable from a grade-school AV department, and a microwave that he says weighs as much as two air conditioners. “It’s so preposterous—it must have come from the Chernobyl cafeteria.” His most prized appliance by far is a screw gun. “If I was stuck on a desert island and could have only one thing, it would be a screw gun.” After a pause, he adds, “and a lot of batteries.”—Jennifer Vogel

  • West Side Story

    One day each spring, thousands of partygoers descend on St. Paul’s West Side to celebrate Cinco de Mayo. On the other 364 days, the parade route along Cesar Chavez Street—including the business district branded and marketed as District del Sol—is something of an urban hamlet. Geographically protected by the Mississippi River from years of downtown development (and redevelopment), and isolated by steep bluffs and caves along its other borders, District del Sol has always marched to its own beat. The only connections to St. Paul proper, it seems, are a bridge and one of those odious Peanuts statues, although this version of Linus wears a cheeky sombrero.

    District del Sol was the sticks back in 1874, when the city of St. Paul absorbed it. Lying south of downtown at a bend in the river, which somehow confuses everyone into calling it the “West Side,” it was thought too removed for residential and business development by downtown sophisticates. So immigrant communities started settling the cast-off river flats: first the Germans in the late 1800s, then Eastern Europeans and Russian Jews. By the 1920s, a wave of Chicano immigrants had settled the West Side; their influence remains most visible today.

    Spanish-language medical clinics and tax services dot Cesar Chavez Street. A mosaic monument identifies the local playground as Parque Castillo (Castle Park). A few retailers are scattered throughout the district: a grocery with a portrait of the Virgin de Guadalupe in the entry; a boutique bursting with tiny white shoes and christening dresses; two Western wear shops with walls of cowboy hats in numerous shades of tan. Storefronts are plastered with signs advertising, in Spanish, everything from homes for sale to outdoor festivals. But the neighborhood’s biggest draw is its dozen Mexican restaurants and cantinas. Some, like Boca Chica, are well established and tastefully decorated in colors of the Aztec palette, while others seem pulled together with found furnishings, like the scrappy Mi Tierra.

    According to the Ramsey County Historical Society, the oldest structures in Del Sol are “architecturally insignificant,” a status that likely stems from their ornament-free utility. Bright, hand-painted signs and murals bring a cheer to the kind of industrial structures that elsewhere meet bulldozers. Whereas the bright yellow and red logo of a global fast food joint might look garish among more manicured brownstones, in this neighborhood it appears almost drab alongside the jaunty, hand-lettered pink and green sign for Don Panchos Panaderia.

    Similarly, the bleached housing complexes cropping up along Del Sol’s periphery counter the neighborhood’s tidy row houses. This clash of threadbare and new, modest and lively, defines the handmade texture of Del Sol. Strolling the sidewalks, your feet pick up dust and BK ketchup packets, while the sizzle of fresh carnitas and the sunshiny ring of mariachi music, piped outdoors from the swankier restaurants, fill the air.
    —Christy DeSmith