Some believe that really good barbeque is made by divine intervention. If that’s the case, then Pastor Luches Hamilton has the inner track. Working out of a tiny space adjacent to his church in St. Paul, he turns out sticky ribs and jo-jo potatoes that answer a higher calling: selling barbeque to raise funds for his church’s youth programs. Even though he does a brisk lunch-and-dinner business Tuesday through Saturday, the friendly pastor doesn’t mind chatting while he cooks—just don’t ask him to reveal the family’s secret sauce recipe. On Fridays when the weather’s warm enough, the operation moves outdoors for an old-time cookout. The prices are almost sinfully humble, too, considering you’re being served a big slab of paradise. NOTE CORRECTION ON ADDRESS: 1150 7th St. E., St. Paul; 651-772-0279; www.pastorhamilton-bbq.com
Month: May 2006
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Constant Commenter
When Kate Parry became the Star Tribune’s “reader’s representative” in December 2004, she told readers she was their “advocate in the room. My job … is to take [your] concerns and make sure the newsroom understands them … It’s a good thing when someone wants to call, even if they’re angry. It’s a good connection.” Unless the reader in question is a very frequent complainer like Dan Cohen, and the issue is making Star Tribune staffers pay for something that they used to get for free—their own newspaper. Then you may find that the “good connection” gets disconnected.
Cohen, who successfully took the Star Tribune all the way to the U.S. Supreme Court for outing him as an anonymous source, takes great glee in continuing to torment the paper. After Parry got her gig, Cohen, according to Parry, began emailing her almost daily. Cohen, who admits as much, says that he was simply exercising his rights as a reader to complain. Parry, however, counters that she did not sign up to be a “punching bag” for Cohen’s “abusive emails.”
So, when the newspaper got egg on its face for first requiring its staffers to pay for newspapers and then threatening to hunt down the ones who stiffed the company newspaper rack (former Twin Citian David Carr wrote a hilarious New York Times story about it), Cohen got really busy. He wrote several emails chiding the paper for failing to respond to the Times story, while at the same time taunting Parry with her own promise to provide “a window … on how the newspaper makes decisions.”
On April 24, Cohen received the following email from Managing Editor Scott Gillespie. “I don’t want you communicating with Kate Parry again. That means writing her messages directly or copying her on messages.” Then Gillespie went one step further and said, “you should message me directly: not Kate, not Anders [Gyllenhaal, Star Tribune editor in chief] … if you’ve got a legitimate question about the content of the paper … send it my way.”
Cohen gave me the emails regarding the paying-for-papers brouhaha. (Kate Parry would not give me the copies of his other emails and Cohen said he would only “if pushed.”) The emails I did see simply questioned why the paper failed to report on a story covered in the New York Times, Politics in Minnesota, and even City Pages. The paper’s responses that I saw sidestepped this question and did not make any comments about Cohen harassing Parry or being abusive.
Even Stevie Wonder can see that Cohen has a thinly veiled agenda of wreaking havoc with the paper whenever possible; still I think he correctly calls out the Star Tribune on its own hypocrisy here. Having gone a round or two with the paper myself—I used to write a column for them and we parted on less-than-pleasant terms—I personally know that this paper does not always practice what is preaches. Complaining to the Star Tribune is OK—if it is the right complaint, on the right issue and one does not complain too often.
Fortunately, Gyllenhaal wisely saw the dangers of Gillespie’s attempt to bully Cohen. After hearing from Cohen directly, Gyllenhaal wrote that another frequent Cohen target, Katherine Kersten, was “very much up for the criticism as well as compliments.” Cohen told me he took Gyllenhaal’s response as a “pass” to write as often as he chooses to anyone at the paper without being admonished like a bad little boy. Parry, however, responded that Cohen’s interpretation was all wrong and that he remained no longer “welcome to write to her.”
Gillespie has since told me that Cohen simply needs to take a “time out” and that no one is banned from writing “substantive emails” to the paper “four times a day every day” if he wants to, as long as he does not make “personal attacks on the character of the person [he is] writing to.” Gillespie further concedes that deciding when an obnoxious reader needs a “time out” is currently a subjective “judgment call” and that maybe the paper should “kick around” establishing clear guidelines.
I think Gillespie is starting to understand what this whole ruckus is really all about. If the Star Tribune is going to have a true “reader’s representative,” then she and her newspaper must have the cojones to take on all comers—from the meek and mild to the Dan Cohens—or clearly state that some complainers can wear out their welcome of certain editors and columnists of the Star Tribune.
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“Bitch-Slapped by Mother Nature”
told my girlfriend Liza that I was going camping for a week with some friends at a remote nature preserve in the mountains of Tennessee, where there would be no modern conveniences. She peered at me over the rims of her geek-chic glasses. “Now, why the hell would you want to do that?” she said.
Liza is from New York City, and I take great pleasure in slathering her with folksiness whenever I can. I do this because when she talks to me about “last season,” I know that she’s probably not referring to the Farmer’s Almanac. By shoving my Midwestern-native status in her face from time to time, letting a little Fargo creep into my voice after a glass of chardonnay, I figure I’m doing her a favor. It makes her feel like more of an outsider, which is secretly what all transplanted Manhattanites love to feel like.
“Liza!” I said. “It’s a vacation! It’s an adventure! Hiking! S’mores around the campfire! Doesn’t it sound like fun?”
“No,” she replied. “But you tell me all about it when you get back.”
So OK, Liza. Here it is in black and white. It was one of the most trying, difficult weeks I ever had. I was bitch-slapped by Mother Nature. I thought that because I’d watched six seasons of Survivor, I had learned how to survive. All it really meant was that I could operate a television set.
The thing was, I may not be a hardened urbanite, but I’m not what most people would call “outdoorsy,” either. My nifty new hiking boots had never ventured beyond the rough-and-tumble terrain of the Lake Calhoun footpath. I borrowed a tent and lantern from my pal Jim, who gave a low whistle when I admitted I’d never gone camping before. “Well,” he said, loading the gear into my station wagon, “you should be fine. The tent is orange, so rescuers can find you.” But if the bears found me first in my DayGlo dome, they might just think, “Yummy candy shell.”
“At least you’re not going in the winter,” Jim said, slamming the hatch door. “I won’t go winter camping anymore. I only went once. Here’s the thing about winter camping. You pretty much just add the words ‘OR ELSE I’LL DIE!’ to the end of every sentence. As in, ‘Oh! I’d better get that fire started.’ Or, ‘I’ve got to get my tent set up.’ ”
Jim saw my eyes widen and hurried on. “You should be fine, though. If the weather holds out.”
The first day, it drizzled for ten hours straight. When my companions and I got sick of hiding in our tents, we huddled by the fire in our ponchos, with gray skies spitting all over us, and tried to make merry by opening a bottle of wine. I found that if I am drinking outside, and it is raining, and there is no live band playing, I don’t feel festive. I feel like Boxcar Willie.
I was starting to smell like him, too. The park ranger had told us to refrain from using perfumed soaps because it said to the bears, “I am here.” I quickly developed a ripe musk that a male Sasquatch might mistake for a female in heat. I imagined trying to let him down easy. “I’m sorry, Bigfoot, it’s totally not you. You’re great; it’s just that I’m married.”
Once the rain stopped, we had to go into town for dry matches. Only two days into my back-to-nature adventure, and I was itching to buy something. Anything. Because buying things makes me feel like a civilized person, a part of a larger whole, a world where printing presses exist, and frappuccinos. But the pickins were slim. The gift section of the convenience store offered jars of jelly with little pillows of gingham cloth covering the lids, pickled okra, and brown suede knee-high moccasins (the sort favored by Fleetwood Mac fans worldwide). There was also a broad selection of knobby, wooden walking sticks, for that stylin’ “woodland pimp” look. The cashier was wearing an angler’s vest with more pockets and flaps on it than an Advent calendar. He sure didn’t smell like he had any chocolate on him, though.
I didn’t go away empty-handed; at least I picked up some toilet paper. But when there is no toilet I guess you just call it “rump paper.” If you had told me a year earlier that I would be digging a hole in the ground to crap in, I would have wondered what apocalyptic sect you belonged to.
So, Liza, because I know these words will ring sweetly in your ears, and because I believe in admitting it when it’s true:
You were right.
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Touchdown Sally
There are some who would contend that women can’t—or shouldn’t—block, hit, or tackle. But one Saturday morning in late April, the players and coaches who constitute our state’s premier women’s tackle-football team, were demonstrating just how tough the gentler sex can be. For the team’s annual tryouts, the Minnesota Vixen had congregated in the lobby of Klas Center, Hamline University’s student union. Even though there had been a steady downpour that morning, the team held out hope that some promising newbies would show, prepared to run through drills with the returning players. “In the rain?” whined a young offensive guard. “This is football!” howled an elder teammate.
Then Michelle Braun, a veteran center, marched in, her new, custom-made “Zena” shoulder pads in tow. “Are those the boob pads?” asked Sara Schoen, a lithe, thirty-something tight end. Schoen grabbed the silvery, robotic-looking shoulder pads, and fingered the breast plate, as if trying to figure the cup size. The problem with traditional shoulder pads, complained Schoen, is that they ride up. Some women cannot fit them over their breasts, and so must wear this essential equipment uncomfortably high on their shoulders. But these “Zena” numbers, tailored to fit a C-cup by prominent pad maker Douglas, are, Braun asserted, much more comfortable.
The players were dressed in waterproof pants and embroidered team sweatshirts. Bandanas were tied around many of their foreheads, or they wore their hair pulled back into ponytails and buns. Many of the teammates hadn’t seen one another since last season’s finale; as they gathered at four round tables, they dissolved into a huddle of chatter and hugs. Meanwhile, visitors and hopefuls were made to feel welcome. Life partners were introduced. Many women related stories of having played on boys’ football teams. There was even a little gossip; the juiciest tidbit involved the team’s twenty-four-year-old star linebacker, Kim Miller, a tall, thin (but sturdy) player who grew up in a Mennonite family of ten children. Miller, it turns out, is dating one of the team’s coaches, although her teammates seemed uniformly pleased by how professionally the pair has handled their entanglement.
Through all this, a trim, blond-haired young man with a wide smile and sunny disposition was buzzing about. Doug Farwell has never played football—the closest he came was marching band. But he now finds himself serving as the team’s volunteer president nevertheless, lured in by his wife, Carrie, an offensive tackle. Farwell busied himself handing out waivers, checking for proof of health insurance, distributing the player handbook—which included the eight-game 2006 schedule—and collecting player fees (one thousand dollars per player per year—plus equipment). The best thing to come of Farwell’s advanced organizational skills of late: securing the Klas Center Field, a modern, comfortable facility, for the Vixen’s four upcoming home games, where fans will finally be able to get a beer.
Farwell was not the only X-Y chromosome in this fray. The Vixen have seven coaches—all men. Segregating themselves at their own table, the coaches were rarely seen interacting with players. What’s with the all-male coaching staff? Men know the game better, having been given the opportunity to play high school and college football, claimed Head Coach Wayne Erickson. His explanation seemed reasonable enough, but then, venturing an amateur psychosexual theory, Coach Erickson attempted to elaborate, saying, rather quietly, “You know as well as I do that, in certain situations, women tend to become a little headstrong. One woman defensive lineman trying to teach another woman defensive lineman? That’s just not going to work.”
Out on the soggy field, the women were directed through endurance, agility, and footwork drills. A walk-on emerged as a promising candidate for running back. The participants in the passing drills consistently fired precise lasers and bullets; and as it turns out, naught a one Vixen threw like a girl.
“Big girls come with me,” shouted defensive coach Dann Lickness, gesturing with his arm. The self-identified burlier players scampered after him. Down at the opposite end of the field, they practiced blocking exercises. Meanwhile, the leaner quarterbacks, running backs, and receivers continued to pass and catch.
“This brings back so many memories,” said Dave Mora-Clark, a squat assistant coach. Although he had taken refuge off the field, and was now standing under an umbrella, he seemed to be getting only more drenched while admiring the wet fieldscape. Raindrops dripped from his eyelashes. “Now this,” he said, with a sigh, “this is football.”
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Bill Frisell's New Quartet
The music by this experimental jazz guitarist is so phenomenally prodigious that we’d be sick of it by now, if Frisell didn’t keep reinventing himself. He’s played with John Zorn’s jazz punk band Naked City, recorded a series of meditations on American folk standards, paid homage to Malian blues, and covered pop and rock artists ranging from Madonna to Neil Young to John Hiatt. He’s also collaborated with many of the greatest living jazz and classical musicians, and even appeared on the soundtrack to Walk the Line. He also brings innovation to the normally straight-up practice of touring, shaking up both the mix of music and musicians—a quintet, an orchestra, a trio—depending on the city. Here he appears with his New Quartet, which features Greg Leisz on steel guitars, David Piltch on bass, and Kenny Wollesen on drums. 416 Cedar Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-338-2674; www.thecedar.org
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Rake Appeal { Fashion
I’m missing something. Not like glasses or dignity, things easily mislaid. No, it’s something essential, like a helix of DNA that should have come matched with my two X chromosomes. It’s the handbag gene.
I exhibit other double-X-linked traits. For example, I’m exquisitely literate in clothing and shoes. I can identify a handmade buttonhole on the fly at twenty paces. The Tod’s wearer is telegraphing a house in the Hamptons and a loveless marriage to a real-estate developer. The correct pronunciation of “Sorbonne student” is loose, transparent florals worn over a black bra, with emphasis on the eyeliner. See? It’s easy.
But when it comes to handbags, I’m deaf and dumb. Not only am I unable to make a personal statement, I can’t read what others are saying via their reticules. Like intuition, bag-speak is the lingua franca of women. Freud or some other guy with a bit too much time on his hands postulated that women’s wombs are the original tote bag from whence comes our fascination with more visible variations on the theme. Remember Grace Kelly and Eva Marie Saint, the very definition of femininity, solving perplexing mysteries via the immutable laws of handbag rotation to which no woman was immune? Would they have been caught dead carrying their compacts and tiny, pearl-handled micro-revolvers in a stained tri-color backpack purchased at Cub for four dollars? Unlikely.
Now more than ever, handbags, which often come accessorized with women, loom large in terms of square footage and their imprint on the sartorial landscape. Ergo, my purse disability has become painfully evident and unacceptable. I thereby devised a plan to trigger a handbag sensitivity, like an allergy, through wanton over-exposure.
I started with two-dimensional magazine images of the whole genre—shoulder bags, handbags, totes, clutches, satchels, reticules, what have you. This went surprisingly well. Through intense scrutiny, I was able to discern minute differences between a dispirited briefcase by Chloé for $1,275 and quite a lot of fortified Naugahyde by Target for thirty-nine dollars (clue: the Chloé bag has a leather zipper loop that resembles the key fob of a Hummer; the Target species has a zipper pull that also works as a room key at Motel 6). Repeated exposure made me aware of the importance of hardware—washers, gaskets, buckles—and the recurring bondage theme. For example, Kenneth Cole used Godzilla-weight hardware to wrap, zip, strap, and buckle a purse the size of a Twinkie that would secure a tube of lipstick against nuclear disaster. Irony. I get it. Or I might have, if I had $785. More enigmatic are the many organ-inspired catch-alls. The very shape and color of a healthy kidney, liver, or spleen—what can a bag of this sort possibly say about its woman? Introvert? Cannibal with a credit card?
Obsessive attention to the patterns and rhythms of bags has indeed nurtured a basic facility in understanding the language spoken by handbags. Wicker in the shape of a rural mailbox: Williams College English major does a yoga retreat once a year; bronze paillettes over crocheted hobo: Stops for tanning salons; tank of a handbag, buttressed and buckled: My people will be contacting you. I was encouraged recently when a handbag spoke to me for the very first time. It said, Your Cub-bought backpack has a hole in it and you have left a trail of lip balm and pennies from here to New Jersey.
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John McPhee
With his uncommonly graceful way with words, sharp eye for details, and knack for getting along with just about everybody, John McPhee can write compellingly about virtually any topic. His enormous body of work includes books about oranges, geology, watercraft, basketball, and characters both famous and anything but. In his latest book, the Pulitzer-winning journalist turns his attention to the world of heavy transport, tagging along with various freight haulers, from the UPS man to towboat captain, as they go about their business. Everything we eat, wear, use, and own comes to us from somewhere else, and McPhee has coaxed some amazing, seldom-heard tales from the people who make their livelihoods moving all manner of commodities from one place to another.
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Alison Bechdel
It sounds like an easy enough job: Just fill in a little box with some scratchy pictures and a handful of words that will make people laugh. For even the best comic strip artists (i.e. Gary Larson, Bill Watterson, and, most recently, Aaron McGruder), however, it’s apparently hard work with a serious burnout risk. Yet for more than twenty years Alison Bechdel has managed to keep her Dykes to Watch Out For strip funny, moving, and relevant by engaging her characters in a world that has changed and grown in step with our own. In Fun Home, Bechdel tells the story of her own deeply sad childhood in a graphic novel that casts a family drama in literary and wryly funny fashion.
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Julia Glass
How tough would it be to juggle careers as a successful visual artist and an accomplished novelist? Mighty tough, one would suppose, although hardly pitiable. Such was the dilemma for Julia Glass, one of those rare people with bankable talent in two art forms. Having already achieved acclaim as a painter and rug hooker, Glass decided to try her hand at writing and ended up with the 2002 National Book Award for her novel Three Junes. She’s apparently decided to stick with writing for the time being, and is back with a complex new tale about a New York pastry chef who takes a break from her life and her marriage to ply her trade for the governor of New Mexico. The Whole World Over also features cameos by a few characters from the Three Junes, which should please readers who hate to see a good story end.
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Melissa Bank
It seems unfair to brand a writer as talented as Melissa Bank with the increasingly meaningless and disposable “chick lit” label. But there’s no denying that Bank’s Girl’s Guide to Hunting and Fishing, published in 2000, was on the leading edge of an avalanche of thinly veiled romance novels that have since come to dominate (and, some say, destroy) women’s fiction. In their defense, chick-lit titles often reflect the realities of modern dating better than anything with Fabio on the cover ever did. Bank’s new book, The Wonder Spot, is a coming-of-age tale marked by abundant cultural wit and intelligent prose. Who knows why the follow-up novel was such a long time coming, but perhaps the hiatus allowed Bank to cultivate a bit of distance from the genre she inadvertently helped create. 300 Washington Ave. S.E., Minneapolis; 612-625-6000