Year: 2007

  • Class in a Glass

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    I attended a wedding over the weekend — one of the loveliest I’ve ever seen, with a rose petal-strewn Japanese garden and a chuppa-like arbor under which the couple was joined. Topping off this perfect event was an exquisite wine: a delicate, slightly dry Pouilly-Fuissé from the house of Bouchard Aînés & Fils. If you think of Chardonnay as a bland, butter-colored liquid that went out of style in the ’90’s, give this a try. Pouilly-Fuissé is made from 100% Chardonnay grapes but takes its name from the Burgundy region in which they are grown. The Bouchard Aînés & Fils 2003 is a balance of gentle fruit — apricot, apple, and lemon — and mineral qualities, plus just a touch of honey. It was an ideal summer wedding wine: refined, light, and, from what I heard, universally liked. Also, it received 90 points from Wine News. I’ve searched the big wine vendors in town and found few that carry it, but it is available at Lakeside Fine Wines & Spirits, in Long Lake; and according to the distributor’s website, it can be sourced through Paustis & Sons in Plymouth. (13% alcohol)

  • Heart, Spirit, and Gut-Wrenching Laughter

    FILM
    Dysfunctional Love in New York City

    manhattancover.jpgIf you agree with Brad Zellar’s assessment (The Rake, June 2007) that Woody Allen “hasn’t made a truly great — or at least consistently funny — film” in a long time. Then tonight is your night. Certainly, Zellar wouldn’t argue against two Allen classics: Manhattan and Annie Hall. Tonight, you have a rare opportunity to see these jewels on the large screen. Enjoy Allen’s sarcastic and self-depracating humor as he explores human relationships in both films. Manhattan is beautifully shot — probably the first film in which Allen truly explored his artistic sensibility on a visual scale, paying full homage to the city he loves so dearly. And, as always, the dialog doesn’t get left behind. In fact, I’d venture to say it’s among his best, as is the dialog in Annie Hall, which won Allen an Academy Award for Best Picture. Minnesotans will particularly enjoy the film’s sharp contrast between New York culture and Annie’s midwest culture.

    7 p.m. (Manhattan), 9 p.m. with a Sat. & Sun. matinee at 5 p.m. (Annie Hall), Oak Street Cinema, 309 Oak Street SE, Minneapolis; 612-331-3134; $8 (seniors $6, students $5).

    MUSIC
    Fervor and Soul

    00000030.jpgWe could all use a little spiritual uplifting from time to time. And tonight, you can get some in the way of music. The Blind Boys of Alabama have been spreading the spirit and energy of pure soul gospel music since 1939, when the first version of the group formed at the Alabama Institute for the Negro Blind. Today, founding members Clarence Fountain and Jimmy Carter are joined by Bishop Billy Bowers, Joey Williams, Ricky McKinnie, Bobby Butler, and Tracy Pierce on a mission to expand the audience for traditional soul-gospel singing while incorporating contemporary songs and innovative arrangements into their hallowed style. Their latest album, Atom Bomb, even features loops, raps and roaring blues riffs.

    7:30 p.m., Fitzgerald Theater, 10 E Exchange St., St. Paul; 651-290-1200; $39.00.

    The Best in Trombone

    slide.jpgIf gospel is not your thing, you can still nurture the soul with the jazz offerings of the United Trombone Summit, featuring Slide Hampton, Steve Turre, and Wycliffe Gordon. While, the Summit has featured various master trombonists throughout the years, American trombonist, composer and arranger Slide Hampton has always remained at the core. Steve Turre, another frequent Summit player, is one of the world’s preeminent jazz innovators, trombonist and seashellist. He has consistently won both the readers’ and critics’ polls in JazzTimes, Downbeat, and Jazziz for best trombone and for best miscellaneous instrumentalist (shells). In addition to performing as a member of the Saturday Night Live Band since 1984, Turre leads several different ensembles. And last, but certainly not least, is Wycliffe Gordon, probably the most versatile trombonist around these days. This is a master performance. You don’t want to miss it.

    7 p.m. and 9 p.m., Dakota Jazz Club and Restaurant, 1010 Nicollet Ave., Minneapolis; 612-332-1010;$35 and $20.

    A Couple of Freebees

    Also on the agenda for this evening are a couple interesting, free, outdoor concerts. Head straight from work to Peavey Plaza to catch Neale & Haberman, and the Ali Gray Band. 5 p.m., Peavey Plaza, 11th St. and Nicollet Mall, Minneapolis; 651-338-3807; free.

    Or head to Minnehaha Falls for a performance of the Indonesian Performing Arts Association essembles. 7 p.m., Minnehaha Falls, 50th St. and Minnehaha Ave., Minnespolis; 612-673-2489.

    BOOKS AND AUTHORS
    Author! Author! Eric Dregni

    20060707_midwest_2.gifIf you’ve read our July issue, then perhaps Eric Dregni has already piqued your interest. He has a wonderful piece this month on the Minnesota Futurists. Want to hear some more of his crazy ideas? They’re not so crazy really. In fact, he can help you find fun and unusual things to do with your summer. Extrapolating the future isn’t his only talent, Dregni has also authored numerous books, including Weird Minnesota and Midwest Marvels. Tonight he’ll be discussing these two books and showing slides of one-of-a-kind tourist destinations from the Midwest. It should be great fun.

    7 p.m., Brooklyn Park Library, 8600 Zane Ave N, Brooklyn Park; 763-424-8002; free.

    ON THE NET
    Practical Jokes

    It’s only funny until someone loses an eye… or dies.

    Pant Trick
    Naked Diner
    Spoon Tap
    Skunk Prank
    Gun Boy
    Puddles
    Mailbox

  • David Fhima at A Rebours

    There’s something about talking over a meal that makes people loosen up. It’s the proximity of your knees under the table, the intimacy of sharing food, the lubrication of a little wine. This is not a set-up for drunken confessions. It is a method for coaxing the truth out of public figures used to communicating mostly in talking points. Ultimately, I want On The Table to show my guests the way they really are.

    But I may have set myself up by asking David Fhima — the smooth, accented restaurateur whose empire crumbled last year amid rumors he was roughly a million dollars in debt — to be my first.

    The truth is that I’ve known David for more than four years: I’ve interviewed him twice before and talked with him personally more than a dozen times. But even after sitting down to a meal with him recently, I still have no idea who he really is.

    Ask around town and you’ll hear that David is a master chef, a hack, a thrill seeker, and a dreamer. You’ll learn he grew up in Morocco, London, or maybe Provence. He had as many as 17 siblings and got kicked out of two or four or possibly seven different boarding schools. He was once a minority partner in L’Orangerie in Los Angeles, or, more likely, one of their top maitre d’s. He’s a good guy who got in over his head, or a con man who’s been running a shell game, transporting unpaid liquor from one restaurant to another in the back seat of his car.

    In "Without Reservations" — a terrific profile by Steve Marsh that appeared in the September 2004 edition of Minneapolis/St. Paul magazine — Fhima admitted to being a “bullshitter” and a control freak. He skewered local food critics for panning Louis XIII, talked about opening versions of his eponymous Fhima’s restaurant in Chicago and Wayzata, raved about the imminent opening of Lo-To, and claimed to be in negotiations to host a show on the Food Network.

    Two years later, there was neither a Food Network show, nor a Fhima’s in Chicago. Lo-To had launched but then closed its doors for a short time, due to unpaid utility bills. Louis XIII was shuttered so quietly, Edina socialites kept showing up for lunches and finding the doors locked. News of his financial troubles was far more widespread, however. In June 2006, the St. Paul Pioneer Press reported that Fhima owed more than $900,000, including $39,000 to his fish vendor, and at least $180,000 to the IRS.

    Over the intervening year, there have been rumblings of continuing problems, such as bounced paychecks at Fhima’s.

    But the people who’ve worked with him — even the ones who’ve been burned — tend to be forgiving. Scott Mayer, local public relations legend and the founder of the Ivey Awards, worked with Fhima until near the end.

    “The thing about David is, no matter what happens, you just can’t get mad,” Mayer says. “Because at the heart of things, he’s just a genuinely nice person.”

    And I have to admit that despite everything I know, I feel the same way. Having lunch with David Fhima is restorative in a strange way. However vain and quixotic he may be, he’s also authentically kind and interested in the people around him. He reminds me, in this way, of a very smart and naughty nine-year-old who dreams of being king.

    Perhaps this is why people keep throwing money at him.

     

    We meet in May at A Rebours, the bistro that shares a block with Fhima’s. David arrives precisely at noon, dressed all in black, wearing dark glasses and carrying nothing but a small European satchel.

    “This is the earliest lunch I’ve had in years,” he announces as he sits. “At my age [46], I’ve tried to change. But no way. I’m a night person, and I’ll always be a night person. I think my DNA is made up for the restaurant business.”

    He has just returned from three days in North Carolina, where he was doing business for Bahram Akradi, founder of Life Time Fitness and Fhima’s new employer-slash-savior.
    In the aftermath of his financial woes, Fhima tells me, Akradi — a longtime acquaintance — stepped in to propose a deal: He would take over LoTo and rebrand it LoTo Life Cafe, then turn around and use the concept in Life Time facilities throughout the country. Fhima would join Life Time as executive chef in charge of more than 50 cafés around the country, and develop a fine dining concept for the higher end clubs.

    Fhima is understandably grateful. “Life Time is a company that if you walk into any club, no matter how incredible they are, it doesn’t do justice to Rahm’s vision,” he raves.
    He’s landed on his feet, yes. But when we begin talking about Louis XIII, Fhima’s mood becomes more sober. And he is ardently philosophical when he describes the past year: “Whether or not it’s true, I’ll always believe that challenges are like magnets. I think they’re like these little animals that walk and pick a place where they can’t knock people down. There’s so much to be learned from a failed dish, a failed relationship, a failed financial experience. More than to be learned from success. If you keep getting up and getting up and getting up, challenges become fun.”

    Say what you will about David Fhima, he does keep getting up.

    After giving me many of the same quotes he’s given other reporters about the closure of Louis XIII — including that it was misunderstood; that it was too good for the Southdale mall; and that it suffered from his being split between kitchen and front of the house — he hunkers down abruptly and looks me straight in the eyes.

    “Looking back, I don’t have any regrets except for one. When I knew it wasn’t working, I should have cut my losses. And I knew within three to four months. I should have cut my losses and owed ten times less than I do now.” He shrugs then, and his face changes, becoming tough again.

    “But I was trying to stick by my concept and make it work, employing people, and staying true to what I believed. What sends me is that some people try to put my financial failure on the same level with my talent as a chef. I know a lot of very talented chefs who have not been able to make a go of it. But there are a lot of successful ones I wouldn’t trust to butter my bread.”

     


    Wait for the long pause at the beginning.

  • Master of the Restaurant Riff

    Tim Alevizos is a man who lives his art.

    Show up at his posh Uptown condo on a Saturday morning around 10. He will open the front door and take your coat. Then, if you’re someone he likes (and believe me, if you weren’t, you wouldn’t be here) he’ll usher you into the “owner’s suite” of his 8-foot Italian couch and bring you a cup of coffee so strong it’ll make your nasal hairs sing.

    There are surgical photos lining the walls, all viscera and blue-veined hearts. A statue of a naked Roman, one hand cupping his genitals, in the corner. Raise your mug and you’ll see that it’s printed with an advertisement: a beautiful blonde gazing into middle distance, looking healthy and satisfied. And underneath the words, “For her, it’s Maximum Strength Pubicort.” Alevizos will chuckle and stroke his chin and show you his own cup, the one that features a photo of him, five years younger and beardless, with his arm around the same woman, and the words “Clitrosyn Vagitabs.”

    These were Alevizos’ Christmas gifts one year: he posed for the photo with his friend, Jennifer Roberts; dreamed up the names of the drugs; and had the cups screen printed for $35 each at a Kodak photo lab in New Hope.

    “The best part,” he’ll tell you, flopping back against the far end of the couch, “was when I went to pick them up and there was this big guy at the register, yelling into the back ‘Hey, George, do we got any more of the Clitrosyn mugs back there?’ And I was just delighted. I made the big man say my made-up dirty words!”

    After a cup of the tannic coffee, you’ll ask for a glass of water (sparkling, of course), and then you’ll need to urinate. Lucky you.

    “Use the toilet in back,” Alevizos will advise, his eyes sparkling behind thick glasses. “That’s the best one.”

    So you’ll go all the way back, through the man’s personal lair with its unmade bed and books strewn all over. Enter the bathroom, a cavernous cube of tile, and face the Toto Neorest, a porcelain fixture like a throne that will yawn open as you approach. Sit on the heated seat, settle in, do your business. Then pick up the remote that hangs to the left of you on the wall.

    Hit the button that says “Front,” and feel the warm spray, which you can adjust — farther forward, if you happen to be a small sort of person who perches toward the front of the rim; or back, if you are, unlike this reporter, a person who covers the entire area of the lid — then the one that says “Back,” even though there is no compelling hygiene reason for doing so. (Notice, ladies, that there is a ‘pulse’ feature, as well; you decide what to do with this particular bit of information.) Finally, press the button labeled “Dry,” and let the air move gently across your bottom while you imagine the horn-shaped blowers of a drive-through car wash, only smaller and down below.

    “I was in Japan in 2002 when I first encountered these toilets,” Alevizos will say when you return, a full 20 minutes after excusing yourself. “I was lusting after one. Then I got this really sweet freelance job that turned out to be really easy and incredibly lucrative. Out of nowhere, there was just enough money to order a Neorest, and I’m really glad I did. That purchase has been nothing but pleasure for me. The remote, the technology, and the pride of ownership. People are always begging me to let them come over and poop in my toilet.”

     

    So what does all this have to do with food? Only that Tim Alevizos is the author of roughly 90 percent of the edgiest, most scatological, profane, and impolitic restaurant advertisements in town.

    His billboards for Chino Latino were among the most famous, sparking, among other things protests from the parents at a local elementary school when “Aw, Phuket, Let’s get takeout” was posted directly across the street from their playground; and outrage from All in the Family fans from coast to coast when he penned the wickedly cruel “Third World Prices, Sally Struthers Portions.”

    All in all, the Chino campaign hit national news some half a dozen times. Not bad for a guy who started his career as an intern for the U.S. Senate.

    “My first restaurant writing job was back in 1988,” says Alevizos. “I’d just graduated from Northwestern and moved to Washington. I always thought I wanted to work on Capitol Hill, but when I got there, I discovered the only things I liked about it were the crazy letters from constituents and these fabulous corporate gift packs that would open up like a Louis Vuitton steamer trunk. When it came to having laws passed, I really didn’t care.”

    That’s when he got a call from Phil Roberts, co-founder (with Peter Mihajlov) of Parasole Restaurant Holdings, and the father of his childhood friends, Steve and Jennifer.

    Roberts had just opened Blue Point, a rustic little seafood restaurant in Wayzata, and he wanted to produce a faux-tabloid ad. Alevizos responded with about a dozen headlines, including: “After having 3 bouncing baby boys, Wayzata woman gives birth to 18-inch prawn; Dad loves the little shrimp.”

    Still in Washington, now working as an information officer for PBS, Alevizos continued writing restaurant jingles and ads on a freelance basis. When Parasole launched Buca di Beppo in 1993, he traded on the over-the-top kitschiness of the décor, scripting radio spots that promised an atmosphere perfect for anniversaries, birthdays, and bowling banquets, as well as “recorded music in every room, thermostatic heating and cooling, and sanitary bathrooms.”

  • Dog Day

    72 Degrees
    You’re wide awake at six a.m. when the sun tips its hand. You barely slept at all last night in the hot box that is your cramped third-floor apartment. There’s no air-conditioning, the windows are all propped open. You spent most the night on top of the sheets, waiting for a breeze that never came, just listening to the sounds of the city; cars whirring by on the street, college kids passing by on the sidewalk below, talking excitedly about their night at the bar. It sounded too familiar. That’s why you moved, to get out of the rut you were in. So far, it isn’t working.

    You might have slept for an hour or two, long enough to have dreamt about the beach—which is odd. You’re not a beach person. You haven’t gone swimming in years. Still, the idea echoes in your head while the heat begins to build, while broad swaths of yellow light climb the cream-colored walls around you.

    It’s a Saturday. You don’t have to work today and it’s going to be viciously hot again. Your friends back home would rag you to no end for even considering going to a beach by yourself. “Pathetic,” they’d say. But they’re not here, and you’re not there. Besides, there’s no one you know well enough to ask to join you.

    It’s settled: You will go to the beach.

    There’s a nice one within walking distance. You’ve driven past it dozens of times and walked around it once or twice, watching everyone else have fun. Today you’ll see for yourself what it’s all about.

    Tell yourself it’s because you’re bored, because any more time spent in this broiling apartment might drive you mad. But deep down inside you know you’re going for the girls. Five months without a date is a long time. Four months in a new town with none of your old friends to fall back on has been a lifetime in itself. You moved, and that’s good, but now it’s time to get moving.

    You roll free of the damp sheets. Your feet hit the gritty wood floor. The dry boards feel warm, not cool like you were hoping.

    74 Degrees
    Your second cup of coffee goes down smooth. You’re just enjoying the morning, reading the newspaper, and taking it all in. You can feel the city waking up around you and it thrills you in some vague way knowing you’re a small part of it. The light morning traffic sounds like a symphony to you. People jog by and zoom past on bicycles. There’s energy in the air, everything seems alive, possible. You never had this sense back home. The shaded downtown streets always seemed empty, the people you did walk past hardly ever looked your way.

    The picnic table on the sidewalk outside the coffeehouse was empty when you got there and you have room to spread out your paper. You’re just getting to the sports page when a pretty girl steps outside with her coffee. From the corner of your eye you can see her thinking about joining you. She’s attractive, somewhere right around your age—twenty-five, you guess—give or take. She has long blonde hair and is wearing round, blue-tinted sunglasses. She looks to you like everything you’ve been missing out on your whole life.

    The words to invite her to sit down are on the tip of your tongue, where they’ve always been when it comes to being anywhere near forward, but they refuse to fly. Instead you get nervous and swallow self-consciously. You study your paper for a moment, feign a look of grim concentration, and then look up at her hopefully. She returns your gaze and even gives you a friendly smile before turning around and going back inside. You smile, too, wryly, before flipping the page.

    You promise yourself right then and there the next time a chance to meet a girl comes along you will go for it, because it’s better to die on the mountain than starve in the valley. Or something like that.

    It’s still early. You aren’t thinking clearly yet.

    76 Degrees
    Instead of walking home after leaving the coffeehouse, you decide to go the grocery store to get supplies for the day. Before the heat comes down, before you change your mind and all you feel like doing is hiding out at the mall, maybe seeing a matinee by yourself. But you know that’s a dead-end street, with no chance for any interaction. No, the beach is where you should be today. You need to be out among people.

    The morning air outside is already heavy, but not choking like it will be later in the day. You listen to the birds singing in the trees. Even they sound restrained. The sky above you is a stark blue and streaked with traces of high, silver clouds. It looks to you as though one more scorching day might bleach away what color remains.

    Thoughts of the beach have you feeling light for the first time in weeks, happy. Your light-brown sandals flop rhythmically on the sidewalk, the sound echoing down the block.

    The back streets are quiet, there’s barely any traffic at all. Nothing seems to move but you. You almost wish someone would walk past you just so you could smile at them, and perhaps even risk a “Good morning!” if they happened to make eye contact with you. Smiling, you look up at the sky. There’s no sense getting too carried away.

    65 Degrees
    It has to be at least ten degrees cooler inside the store. You grab a handbasket and walk over to the fruit and vegetable section. You’re in the heart of the trendy part of Minneapolis and the health-conscious hippies are out in force. You look at their tattoos and their piercings, and the way they intently study each piece of fruit, as though the fate of the world depended on them finding just the right bunch of bananas.

    A pale young woman with jet-black hair cropped in a bowl cut catches your eye. You freeze and then hazard a small smile. She rolls her eyes like she expected nothing less from you. You grab a pound bag of red grapes and move on.

    It amuses you to think that here you’re the strange one. You, with your scrawny build, dark tousled hair and nondescript, clean-shaven face. You and your white T-shirt, khaki shorts and sandals. It would have bothered you once, not so long ago, the way she looked at you. It would have made you feel small and insecure.

    Now it just makes you laugh.

  • Fogo de Chão

    Yes, Brazilians really do eat this way. Fogo de Chão, the new Brazilian steak house at City Center in Minneapolis, is much more elegant—and more expensive—than the truck stop in northeast Brazil where I first experienced churrascaria (Brazilian spit-roasted barbecue), but the basic principle is the same: Waiters in black pleated gaucho pantaloons (at Fogo de Chão, not the truck stop) stroll through the dining room with a skewer of spit-roasted meat in one hand and a long-bladed carving knife in the other. If your little coaster is green-side-up, they’ll stop at your table and carve off a portion to order. Turn the coaster red side up and they’ll steer clear.

    The fifteen meats offered range from sirloin, rib eye and beef ribs to leg of lamb, lamb chops, pork loin and bacon-wrapped chicken breast. As a dining experience, it’s a carnivore’s dream; as a business model, it’s brilliant. Instead of the typical mammoth slab of high-priced beef served up by Morton’s, Ruth’s Chris, Manny’s, etc., which congeals on your plate for an hour or two and eventually goes home with you, half-eaten, in a doggy bag, the mixed grill at Fogo de Chão arrives hot and juicy, a few slices at a time. (The chicken and pork tend to be drier, but the beef is wonderful.)

    You can have as much meat as you like, but you’ll probably eat a lot less than you might at a steak house. Diners are encouraged to start their meal at the cold buffet, and by the time you work your way through the cornucopia of salads, cheeses, and salumeria ranging from prosciutto, smoked salmon, and mozzarella to sundried tomatoes, asparagus, and hearts of palm, you are likely to be half-full. Then an assortment of filling side dishes is brought to the table, including fried plantains, seasoned mashed potatoes, pão de queijo (little cheese popovers), and fried polenta.

    The white-tablecloth ambience compares well with the other high-end steak houses in town, but you are likely to spend a lot less. Lunch is $22.50 and dinner, $38.50. 645 Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis; 612-338-1344; www.fogodechao.com.

  • Shiraz Fireroasted Cuisine

    It’s hard to find a decent Shiraz in Shiraz these days, but that doesn’t mean that the Iranians have stopped drinking. (A popular joke: “Under the Shah, we drank in public and prayed in private; now it’s the other way around.”) But you can find some very drinkable Shirazes and first-rate Persian cuisine in stylish surroundings at the new Shiraz Fire Roasted Cuisine. Many dishes are Persian versions of familiar Middle Eastern fare—hummus, stuffed grape leaves, and kabobs of beef and chicken. More adventuresome diners may want to try the gormeh sabzi, a tart stew of beef, kidney beans, and preserved lemon; or the fazenjoon, chicken and ground walnuts in a pomegranate sauce. Best bets include eggplant mirza with tomato and garlic; the chicken koubideh; the beef kabobs; skewers of coarsely ground chicken seasoned with saffron; and the bastani, Persian ice cream flavored with rosewater. Vegetarians, though, should stay away unless they want to make a meal of hummus. Entrées run $10-$14. 6042 Nicollet Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-861-5500.

  • Bank

    Banks are about delayed gratification: today’s pleasure denied for a better tomorrow. And hotel restaurants often aren’t about gratification at all: You are a stranger in a strange town, you’re tired, you’re hungry and you’re on an expense account, so why not just eat here? But Bank, the upscale dining room in the new Westin Hotel in downtown Minneapolis, offers ample hedonistic gratifications in a stunning setting: The WPA-era lobby of the former Farmers and Mechanics Bank, with its high ceilings, copper chandeliers, and dark wood-paneled walls, has been transformed into an elegant and romantic dining space.

    The menu gets a bit too cute, listing entrées as “long-term interest” and appetizers as “shared currency,” but chef Todd Stein’s “modern American” cuisine is impressive. Stein, formerly executive chef at Chicago’s highly rated MK, incorporates French technique and Asian accents in dishes such as wok-steamed mussels served in a subtle Kaffir lime broth; five-spice rubbed duck breast with frisée, mizuna, and poached egg; and spit-roasted Berkshire pork with apple-braised pork belly, poached leeks and Chinese long beans.

    The salmon tartar is the love child of Japanese sushi and French steak tartar (which itself originated with Tartar horsemen who thundered across the steppes with raw meat under their saddles). Stein’s nuanced rendition combines the salmon with mango and avocado and pairs that with a tuna poke (pronounced pok-eh), a Hawaiian dish of marinated raw fish prepared with pine nuts, apple, sesame, chili, and mint; both are presented on silver tasting spoons.

    At its best, the taste experience is sublime. The poached lobster and risotto croquettes with truffle butter are a marvel of contrasting textures and subtle flavors; the lamb with braised white beans and ratatouille is more robust but no less satisfying. The grilled salmon with spring asparagus, ramps, and trumpet royale mushrooms lost a few points for excessive charring, but was otherwise a delightful springtime dish. Among the few off-notes were scallops lacking the sweet succulence of the very best, and deviled eggs with sturgeon and tobiko caviar that were just ho-hum. The wine list is pricey (mostly $40-plus), with limited choices by the glass. Breakfast runs $7-$16, lunch $9-14, and dinner entrees $21-$32. 88 Sixth St. S., Minneapolis, 612-656-3255; www.bankmpls.com

  • The Language of Lunge

    There’s no love lost between me and the cat that lives in our house. She’s not really my cat; I bought her for one of the kids a while back. There had been a specific Christmas wish for a white kitten with a red ribbon round its neck. I had worked a lot of overtime that year. And I am theoretically smarter than what I am about to say:It was December 23rd, and I just wanted to make it all better with presents.

    I found her at the St. Paul Humane Society, the only kitten who fit the Christmas Wish description. I ignored the bloodstained Post-It note attached to the wee beastie’s cage: “Can’t go home with children—behavioral issues!” I bought the snarling, pointy-eared succubus, and invited the devil into our home.

    Thankfully, the cat never attacked the kids—just us grown-ups. Over the next few months, my husband and I sustained several hairline lacerations—one that almost sliced my left cornea to ribbons—before I broke down and had our precious baby declawed. The cat resorted to biting. Like a cobra strike, she would sit quietly in a corner, waiting for me and my insolent stocking feet to dare walk past her without offering a semi-soft “fish-flava” niblet in tribute.

    “Fool!” she seemed to say. “How would you like tiny puncture wounds in your Achilles tendon? Or perhaps you would rather just be startled out of a sound sleep by the terrifying sight of an eight-pound hissing bomb poised on your chest? As the glowing coals of my beautiful yellow eyes laser beam at you through the darkness, I’ll watch you weighing the chances of covering your face with the thick blanket for protection before I can lunge, jaws snapping. I would laugh, but I am a cat, and such things are beneath me. Instead, I pity you.”

    My friend the animal behaviorist told me that our baby was probably suffering from post-traumatic stress syndrome, possibly the result of an abusive past. My friend said that our cat was also probably depressed, and suggested Prozac—for the damn cat.

    See, I come from a long line of practical, uninsured working-class folk. The kind of folk who would not scoff at shelling out for antibiotics for an honored animal who had been injured in the line of duty, but who would definitely draw the line at mood meds other than Leinie’s, and would never, ever waste good beer on a cat.

    I decided to approach the problem like any good East Side grandma would: Feed the depression, starve a cold—or something like that. I started double-filling the cat’s food dish; she stopped attacking and started napping more. Presto, no more midnight raids, no more surprise attacks in the hallway. She’s simply too fat and too tired. My husband recently likened the cat to a mini Tonka dump truck; she exists solely to empty out her food drawer, then lumber downstairs to the laundry room to unload her cargo into the shit box.

    I disagreed with him, saying that I could see the feelings etched in her angry eyes, hear them in the petulant pitch of her meow if I am late shaking the kibble into her dish. My hub then stated that he thought I was willing to assign the cat feelings because I had feelings about the cat.

    I countered that he also must have feelings about the cat, but he insisted that he didn’t. He then shrugged and said that men were different, that men have about one-fourth the feelings that women have, and they certainly wouldn’t waste any of them on murderous psycho house cats.

    I’ve come across this before. The old “men and women are different” line. And I’ll tell you what I know is true: We are different, but it’s all in the language.

    Over the last few years, I’ve had a lot of feelings for this weird cat who shares our home. I’ve felt anxiety, terror, hope, and relief. And I think my husband has experienced many of the same feelings, only he would classify them as thoughts, opinions, or gut reactions. Go ahead and try this at home—pick a topic, any topic, ask a guy what he feels about it, and then listen to the crickets. Wait a day or two, and ask him about his thoughts, opinions, or gut reactions on the same topic. Just make sure you’ve got a comfy place to sit. And if you want to calm him down you can always double-fill his food bowl.

    Writer, performer, and femme fatale Colleen Kruse can be reached at mscolleenkruse@yahoo.com.

  • Formula for the Future

    Like the ice sheets of Greenland, the American newspaper industry appears to be collapsing faster than the worst pessimists thought possible. Recently the Wall Street Journal ran a story in which Avista Capital Partners, the investment firm that has owned the Star Tribune since early March, conceded that its half-billion-dollar Minnesota toy is producing cash flow twenty percent below promised projections. And those projections were made less than a year ago.

    Large chunks of the newspaper industry are calving off and doing a fast melt into the ocean of the internet. As profoundly bad as this is for newspapers (and other forms of the so-called traditional media), there is a growing belief that opportunities are being created for those who correctly guess what comes next.

    Here in the Twin Cities there is a lot of just-below-the-surface chatter about the dawn of a comprehensive online newspaper. Most of it is idle and wishful. But the combination of high demand for reliable information, a deep pool of brand-name writing talent, and much lower production costs for a concept that would not involve millions of tons of newsprint, fleets of trucks, and vast expanses of office real estate has serious people thinking seriously that the time is right to offer an alternative to the pale shadow of print.

    Assuming that these serious people have the necessary millions, the big question is “Which combination of the best attributes of modern news-gathering will best jump-start a revolution in hybrid media, blending newspapers, magazines, and video?” Since no one knows for sure what online readers will respond to best, there are a thousand half-baked theories diagramming the ideal new, all-electronic major metropolitan news service.

    That said, here’s my list, more half-baked than most, of the must-have components:

    A: Investigative reporting and analysis in the realms of business, government, and education—or wherever the story lies. Few types of journalism generate more impact than investigative reporting, and nearly every second-, third-, and fourth-tier newspaper has given up on it. It isn’t cost-effective, they reason. It requires too much staff time. Time is money.

    But if you want to be a serious player, a bona fide force in your market, you have to risk that a team of two, maybe three, skilled investigative reporters will provide the gravitas and impact required to establish an online “brand.” Moreover, a handful of deeply sourced writers could, with their left hand, provide a steady stream of analysis based on stories reported superficially by television news and/or the remaining newspapers.

    Simultaneously, it would be wise to develop a video component for these stories in order to expand their impact and inflict damage on the broadcast competition. But don’t be TV: Don’t select stories based on what plays well on camera.

    B: Politics. As with investigative reporting, establish a solid base by covering the adult world of money and influence. Hire a handful of reporters—six wouldn’t be too many—to cover the legislature in session and to dog key government officials year round. One of the great benefits of online publishing is that these reporters would not be limited to fifteen inches of newsprint. Nor should they be yoked to treadworn conventions requiring that they choke back what experience and background tell them is really going down. If you can’t stomach blending reporting and analysis, separate them and run them side by side, or a click away. But remember that all readers are confronted with bewildering waves of spin. More than just who said what, they’re asking what in hell does all this mean? They will click in because they want the sharp-eyed, skeptical, fair-minded analysis provided by your reporters.

    Again, there should be a video component, pieces featuring the reporter as story-teller. Don’t worry if the segments aren’t slick out of the box: In focus with decent sound will suffice.

    C: Local. Cultivate or cut a deal with “citizen journalists” to file suburban and neighborhood reports.

    D: Arts. Sports are over-covered as it is, and that band will still be playing as the S.S. Newspaper bounces off the iceberg and sinks beneath the waves. For mass appeal “toy department” coverage, go instead with the arts: heavy on local theater, music, dance, museum shows, fashion, film, and even television. Again, because you can, do something more sophisticated than cheerleading. Let critics write thoroughly and skeptically. Double-ditto all the obvious video connections.

    E: Oh yeah, and media. This all-important topic probably should be one rung above investigative. Just don’t let it slide to “Z.”

    Read Brian Lambert’s blog, at www.rakemag.com/media; email lambert@rakemag.com