With its sleek interior, this slip of a restaurant feels like it should be wedged in with the boutiques of SoHo, not South Minneapolis. Among standard cold starters is the pleasant surprise of Poke Ahi, cubes of tuna marinated in chili oil and topped with a quail egg yolk. On the hot side, the grilled squid with ginger is subtle and refreshing while the Japanese Bagel Balls (tempura fried salmon and cream cheese) are a fun step up from Philly rolls. But the rolls have it, especially the Three Wise Guys with tuna, salmon, and yellow tail; or the Sunrise, wrapped in mango with a touch of mint. 4741 Chicago Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-823-5254; www.bagusushi.com www.bagusushi.com
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