Why aren’t there more truly excellent Southern Italian restaurants around here? Haven’t we gotten over the white- vs. red-sauce snobbery? Can’t we see past Chef Boyardee and lowbrow Lotsa di Pasta chain fare? In such a climate, Al Vento stands out all the more. Chef Jonathan Hunt sees the jewels in the land and uses them at every turn, serving humble foods with an exhilarating flair, from tomato bread soup to a red-potato pizza with spinach and Gorgonzola. The menu changes daily, so there’s always something new to explore. 5001 34th Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-724-3009
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