Author: Jeannine Ouellette

  • Mothers for Meatlessness

    My thirteen-year-old daughter Sophie is a dyed-in-the-wool lifelong vegetarian, occasional vegan, and budding animal rights activist. I hadn’t had the heart to tell her that as a result of this latter interest she’d be the butt of a lot of jokes in her lifetime, but she found out on her own not long ago when she joined the PETA Street Team and discovered a section of the organization’s website devoted to “come backs” for miscellaneous insults she might encounter.

    The thing about animal rights is that the topic draws criticism not only from the people who would prefer to wear fur in peace, but also from the leftiest of lefties, who get infuriated over people raising a ruckus about factory farming and cruel shampoo when the world is plagued by war, homelessness, child abuse, and environmental devastation.

    I know that buying free-range eggs, in the whole scope of planetary problems, is a rather small drop in the bucket. But I’m quietly thrilled that my daughter is expressing a commitment to and a passion for something with more substance than lipgloss. There are more than enough issues out there for everyone, after all, and involvement with one often leads to another. For example, she just finished reading A Civil Action, the real-life legal thriller about the toxic waste dumping in Woburn, Massachusetts. She loved it, despite (and because of) having to swallow a bitter pill of indignation over the omnipotence of corporate giants and the fallibility of our justice system.

    I myself converted to vegetarianism because, put simply, I could. With almost no effort, I am able to do something that’s better for the planet, that eliminates the possibility of contributing to unethical livestock practices, all the doing something that’s healthy for me. So many other things I should do, but I can’t or I don’t, but vegetarianism is just so easy I can’t turn down the potential good karma it represents.

    The day I went vegetarian still sticks in my mind. It wasn’t long after the ice had gone out on North Center Lake, and the blinding spring sun bounced off the water and flooded through the west windows of our old Victorian house. I was upstairs folding laundry while baby Sophie helped by pulling the tidy stacks off the couch when I wasn’t looking. Somewhere in the middle of this tiresome game, my attention turned to the television in the other room. I caught a short snippet of a PBS documentary showing a man drinking warm blood from the neck of a freshly beheaded snake, and I said, “That’s it.”

    I can see now that my reasoning was pretty loose, and I also recall feeling pretty sheepish about subsisting primarily on bread and noodles for the first couple of meatless years (“For vegetarians, we don’t seem to eat very many vegetables,” I remember saying). I didn’t care for tofu back then, and couldn’t stand legumes. I’d grown up on hamburgers, tuna fish, and hot dish, and it took years to orient my palate toward broader horizons.

    Meanwhile, we decided to raise Sophie vegetarian, and her siblings, too, as they came along. Once in a while, people would prod us about what might happen when our kids got a little older. “Aren’t you worried that once they have the chance they’re going to go off the deep end—you know, gorge themselves on hot dogs and Big Macs?”
    In truth, I wasn’t worried at all. I figured that eventually they’d have to make their own choice anyway, and what they ate when they came of age would have little bearing on me. As it happened, when their dad and I split up, he married an omnivore and gave up vegetarianism. Perfect opportunity for the kids to start scarfing down sausage and buffalo wings. But the years have unwound and they haven’t chosen to do so. At thirteen, eleven, and eight, they’re wholehearted herbivores, and for reasons of their own.

    Which, as I said, can sometimes be cause for humor, intended or not. Sophie was at the mall recently, celebrating a friend’s birthday. All of the girls ordered Asian at the food court. Sophie was the only one who didn’t get chicken, and she had to explain to one of the girls who didn’t know her that she’s a vegetarian, has been her whole life. “Really?” asked the girl, with sincerity, concern, and an extended fork. “Would you like to try my chicken?”

  • Hormones on Overdrive

    It’s another spring evening at the Mall of America, where the Glitz
    store is in full bloom with taffeta and tulle. Pastel Cinderella
    dresses glimmer under the fluorescent lights, and the skirts bursting
    from these sleeveless bodices are so lush, they make the satin wedding
    gown I wore fourteen years ago seem downright drab. I touch the
    bejeweled outer layer of a particularly lovely dress, and then I see
    its $298 price tag, which further confirms the dowdiness of my own
    once-upon-a-time princess costume (now stored dutifully in a cardboard
    box in the basement, for posterity).

    In any case, I’m not here for a dress, but for the teenagers who buzz
    around me, circling the racks and ducking in and out of dressing rooms
    with their selections. I’ve already spent countless hours in
    legitimate, moderated teen chat rooms, marveling at the banter among
    twelve- to fifteen-year-old boys and girls. Most recently they’ve been
    asking each other for advice about whether or not to have sex, what to
    do if your dad thinks you’re a ’ho, how to get a girl back, combating
    lust, and whether boys prefer shaved pubic hair on girls. Now I’m
    hoping to break out of the close, sweaty space of these anonymous chats
    and talk to some local teens face to face. I see a friendly looking
    girl at the rack with the jeweled skirt and I make my move.

    Melissa, it turns out, is a junior from Lafayette, Minnesota
    (population 529), and she’s here shopping for the prom. She doesn’t
    have a date yet, but she plans to go either way, because, as she
    explains, prom is a very big deal. “I guess girls like to get all
    dolled up, it makes us feel important,” she told me shyly, averting her
    gaze. When I asked if she thought there would be drinking and drugs and
    sex at the prom, she looked a bit wounded. “No, I don’t think we really
    have that kind of thing,” she said.

    Of the fifteen or so kids in my highly unscientific sampling at the
    mall that night, Melissa, the shy girl sporting a mouthful of braces
    and little or no make-up on her almost clear skin, was the only one who
    expressed such reassuring naivete.

    If the lilac buds outside my window pop open today, then others were
    blooming yesterday along roadsides approximately seventeen miles south
    of here, and still more will be doing so tomorrow seventeen miles
    northward. Spring rolls along at a pleasantly predictable pace year
    after year, global warming or no. As it arrives, it greens the lawns,
    buds the trees, and transforms winter’s faded trash into dirty
    pinwheels to blow in the wind. Spring also heralds prom night, a
    cultural relic that UrbanDictionary.com now defines as an “unusual
    American custom in which otherwise Puritanical just-say-no parents
    support, tolerate, approve of, or feign ignorance and/or disapproval of
    teenage public drunkenness, destruction of hotel property, and lewd
    behavior.”

    Today’s proms are not at all the crepe paper-and-punch affairs of times
    past. As the premiere social events of the teen season and the last
    hurrah of adolescence, today’s over-the-top, limo- and hotel-enhanced,
    booze- and sex-soaked proms might even be viewed as emblematic of the
    way everything about American adolescence has changed. And adolescence
    has changed, in that it now lasts for all of about twenty minutes—or
    twenty years, depending on how you look at it. We simultaneously want
    to accelerate childhood into adulthood, and spend our adulthood
    resisting the trappings of age and idolizing and emulating youth.

    American adolescence is both the shortest and the longest it has ever
    been at any point in history, which isn’t saying all that much, since
    the term “teenager” with all its associated connotations was only first
    coined in 1942—prior to which the notion of an extended passage between
    childhood and adulthood had yet to be embraced in ideological or
    practical terms.

    Modern adolescence has been defined as lasting until anywhere between
    age nineteen and thirty-four (the latter being the age of adulthood, as
    pinpointed by the $3.4 million “Transitions to Adulthood” project,
    funded by the MacArthur Foundation). Known as the Peter Pan syndrome,
    the trend of extended adolescence is represented by a growing number of
    twenty-somethings who depend on their parents well past the point of
    legal adulthood. According to the Institute for Social Research at the
    University of Michigan, the number of young adults in their twenties
    living at home with their parents increased by fifty percent between
    1970 and 1990. Today, sixty-three percent of college students say they
    plan to live with their parents after graduation.

    Meanwhile, when does adolescence start? Scientists have noticed that
    this physiological phase begins as much as a year earlier with each
    passing generation. And younger adolescents’ exposure to sex, drugs,
    alcohol, and independence from parental authority is becoming more
    widespread and intense. Increasingly younger children are taking up the
    outer vestments of teendom. Meanwhile, the physical signs of puberty
    are also creeping down to affect eight-, seven-, even six-year-old
    girls (and the newest research suggests the age of puberty is also
    falling for boys). A century ago, the average age for a girl’s first
    period, or menarche, was about seventeen. Menarche now hits girls
    between twelve and thirteen. Alcohol, drugs, and sex are now typical,
    rather than exceptional, components of modern adolescence. Social
    research also shows the most influential forces in the lives of many
    teens shifting from family to peer culture, including the media, at
    younger and younger ages. This is not restricted to urban settings.
    Suburban high school students have sex, drink, smoke, use illegal
    drugs, and engage in delinquent behavior as often as urban public high
    school kids. This is according to senior researchers at the Manhattan
    Institute, who drew their findings from the National Longitudinal Study
    of Adolescent Health—one of the most comprehensive and rigorous studies
    of American high school students. Regardless of where they live,
    students also engage in these behaviors much more often than most
    people realize.

    The American press is saturated with stories about the “crisis of
    adolescence,” with new headlines literally every day. And then, every
    so often, someone cries foul, protesting all the fuss: “Shut up,
    already. They’re teenagers! Teenagers have always been reckless and
    there never were any good old days, so get over it!”

    It’s an appealing sentiment, in a way. If we accept it at face value,
    we can let out a guilty little sigh and go back to business as usual,
    convinced that things are not, after all, so bad out there—and
    certainly not so much worse then when we were kids. This denial ought
    to hold up for as long as it takes to read the facts from a recent slew
    of news stories: The U.S. has the highest rates of teen pregnancy and
    births (and abortions) in the western industrialized world. Half of all
    fourteen-year-olds have been to a party with alcohol. Self-harm
    (cutting) is increasing among children as young as six. More than
    79,000 teens under eighteen received cosmetic surgery in 2001, and
    3,682 of those got fake breasts—up from 392 in 1994. Almost half of
    fourteen-year-olds report current drinking behavior; about a quarter
    report heavy drinking and marijuana use. Girls as young as twelve are
    reporting pressure to have sex. Twenty percent of twelve- to
    fourteen-year-olds have had sex. The percentage of sexually active
    eighteen-year-olds has risen steadily from twenty-three percent in 1959
    to eighty percent in 1999. Sixty-six percent of all high school seniors
    have had sex. Half of all young people report experience with oral
    sex—which they, like Bill Clinton, don’t define as “sex.” American kids
    spend twenty-eight hours per week watching television. Childhood
    obesity has hit an all-time high. About three quarters of teens believe
    that the actions of other teens are influenced by the sexual behavior
    seen on television. Sixty-five percent of the sexually transmitted
    diseases diagnosed this year will be among people under twenty-five. A
    statewide study shows that ten percent of adolescent males in Minnesota
    have chlamydia. Teens are five times more likely to get herpes today
    than in 1970, and because most teens think oral sex is safe, record
    numbers of teens are contracting a strain of mouth herpes that was once
    associated only with genitals.

    The story spins out as far as you can follow it and beyond, and in the
    end it should force us to wonder if, after all this, the kids are all
    right.

  • Fighting Hate With Hate

    Days before the anniversary of the start of the Iraq war, a car bomb desecrated a five-story hotel in Baghdad, killing seventeen people and wounding at least forty. No matter what the complex politics of this act, the truth is that somebody did it because they hate somebody else.

    I teach my fourth-graders over and over: Don’t hate people. These kids are so good-hearted, I think they’re really getting it. Then somebody calls somebody else a fatso, and that kid calls the other kid stupid. And one tells me that the other one hates him, and then the other one starts to cry. And I know these kids: one really is afraid of being a fatso, and the other really is afraid of being stupid, and they’re both wounded and angry, and they’re both good kids. Now they’ve got to sort it out and forgive each other, or else the anger festers and turns hard. So I help them listen to each other, and then we start again.

    I have yet to find a faster route, a more drastic means of teaching human decency and acceptance. But others have tried. On April 5, 1968, the day after Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was shot, Jane Elliott tried. That morning, in the tiny, all-white, all-Christian town of Riceville, Iowa, the third-grade teacher threw out her lesson plans and walked into her classroom with a terrible, powerful idea for one of the most memorable and controversial classroom experiments in American education: the brown-eyed/blue-eyed exercise.
    Elliott had talked about discrimination countless times, but still her students carried the persistent assumptions of their time and place—a place without a black person in sight, but with plenty of negative stereotypes anyway. She suggested that it might be fun to divide the class for two days into groups based on eye color; they would pretend that one group was better than the other on the first day, then switch roles on the second. “Would you like to do that?” she asked the class cheerfully. “Yes! Yes!” they chorused, hands raised dutifully in the air.

    Elliott explained the rules. Being on top meant five minutes’ extra recess, second helpings at lunch, always getting in line first, and lots of praise and compliments from the teacher. Being on the bottom meant not being allowed to use the drinking fountain (“Brown-eyed children will have to use paper cups, of course”), shorter recesses, no seconds at lunch (“You know those brown-eyeds will take too much”), and constant put-downs from Mrs. Elliott. Inferiors also had to wear cloth collars so there would be no mistaking one sort of person for another.

    Elliott watched her normally kind, cooperative class turn nasty within fifteen minutes. Name-calling and fights erupted. Inferior children turned in poor schoolwork. Superior children offered Elliott advice about how to keep the inferior children in line, such as placing the yardstick within reach at all times.
    Elliott hated the immediate effects of her eye-color exercise, but believed that it got through in a way nothing else had. She repeated it year after year; today, she tours the globe teaching it to adults, while teachers everywhere have repeated it with students across the grades.

    In 1970, ABC News produced Eye of the Storm, a documentary showing Elliott conducting her exercise with her third-grade class. In 1985, Frontline’s “A Class Divided” documented a 1984 mini-reunion of those third-graders, now speaking as adults about the positive effects of Elliot’s lesson. One woman recounts with a potent freshness the hatred she felt for Mrs. Elliott during the experience.

    “A Class Divided” is one of the most requested programs in Frontline’s twenty-year history. “I absolutely hate this exercise,” Elliott told Frontline in a 2002 interview. “But the worst of it is that it is as necessary today as it was in 1968.”
    I understand why people laud Elliott and her work. But still, I just don’t know. I watch the expression on a small girl’s face some thirty years ago as Mrs. Elliott points out, “Laurie is not ready yet… What color are Laurie’s eyes? Yes, Laurie is a brown-eyed. You’ll notice we spend a lot of time waiting for brown-eyed people.” The camera zooms in on Laurie’s face collapsing. I cringe.

    Teaching is inefficient, muddy work. But with all due respect, I cannot imagine doing the brown-eyed/blue-eyed exercise with young children. I’m bound to the challenge of teaching them not to hate without manipulating their capacity to hate in the process. Can children understand discrimination, oppression, or violence without experiencing them for themselves? I think they can, I really think they can. And it is we who must teach them.

  • Seeking Refuge

    Sleeping birds are vulnerable. This is why the lucky ones flock by the tens of thousands to roost for the night on the low, gnarled branches of the mangrove trees that flourish in the back bay waters of Estero Island, Florida, where I just spent a week with Jon and our kids.

    In these quiet, tidal waters, masses of entangled leaves, boughs, and trunks spring out of the sea itself—there’s no ground at all above water. On the landless Bird Island, some fifteen thousand birds gather at dusk to nod off in peace. No ground, no predators. These birds are fearless for the night. How I envy those birds on Bird Island. The romance of it makes me shudder: What would my life look like if I erased all predators?

    Oh Lord, I’d have my work cut out for me. Obviously, at this very moment, I’d eradicate my proclivity to sun rash (an unfortunate ailment I’ve passed along, much to her horror, to my elder daughter). Without sun rash, I could enjoy a week at the beach without red blisters, ice soaks, antihistamines, cortisone, calamine, and Desitin ointment.

    What is sun rash, anyway, my daughter wants to know as her hands and feet swell and itch painfully with small blisters and under-the-skin bleeding. Is it some sort of allergy? Indeed, it is, known medically as the exotic-sounding “polymorphous light eruption.” When I was little, my mom used to call it “heat rash,” a term decidedly less flattering than either sun rash or polymorphous light eruption. Heat rash sounds oddly private, and vaguely unclean. We girls will take our sun rash, no matter how gruesome, to any form of “heat rash,” thank you. But if we had the chance to be as free of menaces as the birds on Bird Island, then we’d banish sun rash, and all other rashes for that matter.

    There are other things I’d ditch faster, though, come to think of it. Based on today’s mail offerings, I’d erase the mean people from the law firm that handled my divorce almost four years ago—the ones who now send unpleasant letters regarding the obscene amount of money I still owe them and the inadequacy of my regular monthly payments. Maybe all bills could be eliminated.

    But first I would erase my son’s melancholy for all things dead and gone: his first house, friends who’ve moved away, his homemade cardboard mailbox that I threw to the floor and broke (it still hurts to recall the snapping sound) in a sleep-deprived fit of frustration when he was three years old, and his several deceased pets, including Popsicle the parakeet who dropped dead while my son was traveling, adding shock and guilt to his inevitable heartbreak. I would get rid of it all, and more, until he was a free eleven-year-old boy, alight on a mangrove branch with his blond head tucked under a sturdy wing.

    Though I imagine the melancholy could wait until I’d done away with assaults. The boys who jumped out at my friend and me in a haunted house twenty summers ago, grabbing us and tearing the buttons from our shirts, bruising our wrists, scaring us senseless before the next person who’d bought a ticket for fear stumbled down the darkened hallway. The crazed men who’ve assaulted so many women I know. The stepfather nicknamed Mafia by his friends, not enemies, who picked up my sister by her long straight hair. All assaults would be erased on my Bird Island.

    And how about psychic assaults, those haunting bad memories and humiliations? I’d can them. The time my friend and writing colleague called from Knoxville to say our editor at Simon and Schuster had received our manuscript and was demanding a total rewrite. “She hated it,” drawled my friend. “Just hated it.”

    It’s exhausting, this process of elimination. It’s not the same as feeling somewhere in your ancient psyche that the light is waning, and taking wing to a certain spot far out in the water where you know you will rest easy for the night, safe, fearless.

    So I throw the mail in the mail basket and carry my daughter’s blanket up to her lofted bed. I tuck it in around the edges, smooth it out. I lie down with her while she reads Caps for Sale. A spray of freckles has emerged on the tan skin across the bridge of her nose (unlike her sister, she does not get sun rash). I run through all of the kids in my mind, their faces, their quirks. Who needs what, who’s doing okay, who’s struggling. Eventually, they all sleep.

    Sleeping children are vulnerable. There is no Bird Island in sight, and only flawed parents to keep them safe. Let us rise to it, even if barely. That’s ultimately all I ask. That’s my real Bird Island.

  • Dream Work

    What does it mean if you have a dream about flying through the air strapped to a toilet? Dare I ask? How could I not?

    Since ancient Mesopotamia, where dreams were first recorded, people have meandered the path of wonder in search of meaning in dreams. Dreams have inspired music, literature, mythology, political decisions, and scientific advances. Einstein was spurred toward his theory of relativity by the memory of a childhood dream.

    Somehow, I don’t think my recent experience has potential on that scale. In the dream, I was with my sister in a bright New York coffee shop. We were having some sort of flat-bread sandwich, and I was marveling at how pretty and strange she looked in the poufy 1950s housedress that she had apparently modified to suit her expanding middle. I excused myself to find the restroom, and that’s when the surprises kicked in.

    It turned out the bathroom didn’t have any stalls, just an extraordinary selection of unusual toilets. As I wandered about, trying to decide which toilet to use, the room grew and shifted, becoming something along the lines of an enormous warehouse with toilets in every shape, size, and color. It was hard to commit to a commode, but finally, I did. I chose one that sat like a throne atop a ten-foot pyramid of stairs. Slowly, I climbed. In the dream, the fact that the toilet had a seatbelt didn’t sound any alarms. But it should have. Because as soon as I’d slipped my pants down (glancing furtively toward the door the whole time) and belted myself in, the toilet propelled itself from its high perch and swung forward and down and up again in a wide, thrilling arc through the bright open air of the warehouse. I felt awkward about my pants being down, and peeing was out of the question, but the ride itself was enchanting.

    Carl Jung and other dream researchers have agreed that flying dreams are about ambition and achievement, while a swing as a dream symbol suggests issues hanging in the balance that can be made to swing in your favor if you are patient and cautious. Toilets, I’ve learned, are widely acknowledged to symbolize purification and self-renewal. Public restrooms with no stalls, on the other hand, can indicate frustration about not getting enough privacy. And public nakedness might point to an experience of embarrassment or vulnerability. That’s a lot of material from one strange little dream.

    But there’s probably even more to it than that, because many dream researchers believe that through dreaming we access a certain collective unconscious, and that’s why our dreams might be considered products of a certain universal symbology.

    Kelly Bulkeley is a theological scholar, author, and researcher who started an interesting study in 1996. He gathered dream reports from college undergrads of all political persuasions and ultimately compared the dreams of twenty-eight highly conservative people to those of twenty-eight highly liberal people, with men and women equally represented.

    At an academic conference in the summer of 2001, Bulkeley presented his findings, with the disqualifier that his sample was way too small to be conclusive. But still, it was interesting. People on the right had more nightmares, more dreams in which they lacked power, and more lifelike dreams: “Female rights were especially anxious about family relationships, and male rights had dreams almost devoid of girlfriends,” said Bulkeley. Meanwhile, lefties had fewer nightmares and more dreams of good fortune, personal power, bizarre elements, and, among the males, an “unusually high” number of female characters.

    Bulkeley’s findings (much to his amused surprise) were snatched up by the national media, and political partisans on both sides spun the issue, despite Bulkeley’s disclaimer about the sample size. How could they resist? Terry McAuliffe, Democratic National Committee chairman, quipped, “If George W. Bush were the leader of my party, I’d have trouble sleeping at night, too.” “What do you expect after eight years of William Jefferson Clinton?” retorted Kevin Sheridan of the Republican National Committee.

    However we spin or dismiss our dreams during the waking hours, the significance of dreams is too well established to wave away. Some people can even will their own dreams, after much disciplined practice. Which means that you, too, could take a ride through Manhattan on a flying toilet, if only you set your mind to it.

  • Campaign Season

    Maybe Governor Pawlenty’s idea of reinstating the death penalty in Minnesota will spur young people into some political interest, if not action. My stepdaughter was certainly disturbed when her research on the issue turned up the facts of the last Minnesotan execution in 1906, which didn’t go well. The hangman miscalculated the necessary calibration between the length of rope and the height of the scaffold, and William Williams’s feet struck the floor. Deputy sheriffs grabbed the rope and hoisted Williams up for almost fifteen minutes until the convicted murderer died by strangulation.

    We all have our mile markers along the path of political ignition, some stranger than others. Do you remember the night Bill Clinton trounced George Bush? God knows, I do. That was the same night my fourteen-year-old foster daughter Erica snapped the braces off her teeth with pliers. But I didn’t discover that until the next morning.

    On the night of the election, I was twenty-four years old. I had a colicky newborn in arm and a toddler at my feet. My chic, academic sister called from her cramped apartment on Manhattan’s Lower East Side as soon as victory was assured. She said something triumphant about how this election was really going to show the old boys club where they could go, now that old Georgie was a paltry single-term weenie. I stood barefoot in my nineteenth-century farm kitchen and let myself inflate like a balloon with hope like I hadn’t known since my own political awakening at the age of sixteen.

    It was 1984, and I was an avid supporter of the Mondale-Ferraro ticket. I couldn’t vote yet, but I could stay up late into the night poring over my mother’s assigned college reading on the horrors of the nuclear world and systemic poverty. I could leaflet the neighborhood for my candidates and watch every televised debate. Ferraro was tough and smart and even pretty, with her arched brows and wide smile. It enraged me how the other side made fun of her. Mondale was sage and fatherly and good and honest. Of course they would win.

    I was overly righteous and awkward as an adolescent politico, but I deserved some credit for my sincerity, which was so intense that it frequently ignited the wick afloat in my vast reservoir of ignorance and naiveté.

    Not much had changed by 1992, when my team finally won for the first time. I crept into our foster daughter’s bedroom to herald the news. Except Erica wasn’t in her bed, or her room. She wasn’t anywhere in the house. She had climbed out her window and run off down some rural road to hang out in a friend’s basement plucking off her orthodontia, one tooth at a time.

    That wasn’t the last disturbing episode from Erica, who remained a part of our family for years even as her primary residence kept changing as she transferred from one intensive therapeutic setting to the next, while she stayed with us on weekends. Eventually she ended up in my hometown of Duluth, where we continued to visit her until she emancipated herself from the system to become an exotic dancer, or at least that’s what she told me during one of our last conversations. I was not surprised, based on all that I knew about the abuses Erica had racked up at the hands of her toothless father, her disinterested mother, and a string of others who had swung through her life.

    I think of Erica often, especially during election years. That girl really had something. She was smart, talented, and profoundly wounded. She had every reason to be consumed by rage, but she wasn’t. She was self-destructive, yes, but also unabashedly enthusiastic. She was resilient. She walked with grace and operated out of kindness and intuition an astonishing amount of the time. Sometimes I see someone in a car or standing in line at a store and I think it’s Erica, but then I realize she’s not sixteen anymore. She’d be closer to the age I was when I stood in as her mother. Chances are, I wouldn’t even recognize her, even though I can still picture the shape of her small white teeth that stayed straight even after she pried her braces off herself. Truth is, I saw something admirable in Erica’s do-it-yourself dentistry, violent though it was. Erica didn’t waste a lot of time feeling sorry for herself and she had the brains and the guts to make her own solutions when necessary. No doubt she’d have had a knack for politics, and I sure do hope she’s out there somewhere, getting by just fine, and raising a little hell in all the right places.

  • Ex Marks the Spot

    My teenage daughter hurt my feelings the other day, and this bizarre thing happened. The light in the room shifted, there was a faint static, and a tremor ran through my body. Suddenly, I was channeling my brother-in-law’s Jewish mother (odd, since she is still alive and well in Louisville).
    “Sophie,” I heard myself lament. “Can’t you see this from my perspective? I carried you, I gave birth to you, I nursed you and took you to work with me, I breastfed you during meetings in front of rowdy young sales guys, and then I quit the job to raise you—which was not always a cake walk, I might add.”

    You see, Sophie was easily the most stubborn child in world history. “How did this happen?” I remember thinking to myself back then, during the car ride home after a particularly harrowing tantrum at Grandma’s. “We’re reading all the best parenting books, we’re raising her with love, patience, and respect, we’re doing everything right, and still, she’s plotting to destroy us.”

    Sophie, three years old and unnervingly silent in the back seat, read my thought and promptly pulled out a tuft of her baby brother’s hair. “I’m gonna win this one,” she screamed, as her father pulled the car over and I unclenched her fist from the baby’s wispy golden locks, one chubby finger at a time.

    Even Sophie remembers some of the highlights of those years. But she insists her vexing tendency to pull out her brother’s hair was not entirely her fault. “I always had a reason. And besides, it comes out very easily,” she explained recently. “It’s very poorly rooted.”

    Only during the aftermath of my marriage to Sophie’s father did I gain insight into my daughter’s dogged resolve to take life by the throat and shake what she wants out of it. I gleaned this insight through basic (if belated) observation of my own and my ex-husband’s behavior. If I had wanted a docile, easygoing child, her father and I should have had personality transplants. Of course, I never really wanted an easy child. I loved the feisty one I got as if she were an aching piece of my own heart, fragile and exposed, pounding mightily, forever seeking shelter within the safe cavity of my ribs.

    Last week I had coffee with my ex-husband. Those who know us will undoubtedly be stunned to hear this. Three and a half years after our separation, we are still not the “let’s chat over espresso and biscotti” sort of ex-spouses. We are the “isn’t it nice that we’re so flexible and reasonable with each other, but you make one false move and I’ll make you regret it forever” kind of ex-spouses. We’re both Aries, and evidently, Aries-to-Aries matrimony does not make for tidy divorce.

    “Your mistake,” I told Sophie’s father as we sipped bad coffee and took turns picking off each other’s scabs, “was that you grossly underestimated my obstinacy.”

    “Not at all,” he said. “I’ve always known full well how obstinate you are. We’re two of the most tenacious SOBs on the planet.” Yes, thank you very much. How else would we have gotten so much done in our eleven-year marriage? Two postgraduate degrees (his), two book deals (mine), and three kids plus several foster children in four different houses (ours), just for starters. It takes a stubborn streak to get things done. But to mix it with conflict is to concoct one bitter, obstreperous cocktail. We have this perverse and unreasonable resistance to control. Under the wrong circumstances, we behave like poorly trained cairn terriers, who must stupidly insist on having everything be our own idea. We like to win more than we like to admit among more evolved company.

    My ex-husband and I had arranged this coffee talk in hopes of further improving the way we work things out on behalf of our kids. And toward that end, we didn’t get all that far. Instead, we sidetracked ourselves by reminiscing about all the horrible things we’d said and done to each other during our breakup. He even shared a few gruesome ideas he hadn’t managed to carry out. We both laughed. Only as our meeting began to close in on itself—bound by the expectations of those who waited at home, worrying—did we gingerly reveal our ugliest scars and most enduring regrets. All the while making sure to point out repeatedly how much more perfect and idyllic our lives are now. Hey, what did you expect? Rome wasn’t built in a day, you know.

  • Too Deep, Too Dark, Too Cold

    The gales of November still rage with controversy and treachery, as shipwrecks and their grisly cargo become the hot new tourist attraction.

    A beacon of light shines out from the tip of an eighty-mile stretch of shoreline known as Lake Superior’s Shipwreck Coast. It shines from the lighthouse at Whitefish Point, Michigan, over an area known as the Graveyard of Ships. It’s earned this moniker because more vessels have been lost there than in any other part of Lake Superior. In the graveyard, waves of biblical proportions are whipped up by roaring northwest winds carrying the power they’ve amassed over 160 miles of open water. Raging in from all directions, these murderous waves crash back from the shores with even greater ferocity. They are said to strike harder and more often than any saltwater wave. Brutal as hurricanes, but stealthier, these storms often catch sailors by surprise. Hundreds of ships, including the Edmund Fitzgerald, lie on the bottom of this bay and its vicinity. The Fitzgerald’s bell, recovered and restored, is now displayed at the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum at Whitefish Point. And as the lore goes, the beacon at Whitefish Point has shone unfailingly for nearly a century and a half, except for the night when the Mighty Fitz went down.

    When my son was very small, he was mesmerized by water and fire. Among his first words were “boat” and “candle.” By the age of four, he had developed a fierce interest in all manner of watercraft, disasters, and horrible combinations of the two—in particular, the sinking of the Titanic.


    With my perhaps misguided support, my son’s fervor soon directed him to tragedies closer to home, and by the time he was five or six, he could do a crackerjack imitation of Fred Wolff, narrator of our worn-out copy of the cassette tape Stories of Lake Superior Shipwrecks, Volume I. Wolff, a professor emeritus at the University of Minnesota-Duluth, bears the sort of thick Minnesota accent you find only in the far north. On many a long drive during those sleep-deprived years, I relied on gas-station coffee to keep from being lulled blissfully to sleep at the wheel by the familiar drone of Wolff’s stories. My son, however, listened on the edge of his seat. What is it about shipwrecks that called so powerfully to this little boy? What is it about wrecks that pulls at him still, pulls at us all, in one way or another?

    Outside, late autumn rain and wind are ripping wet leaves from the trees in great batches, plastering them against the windshields of parked cars and onto the blackened city streets. Rivers of water rush down the gutters toward the sewer drains, begging to be dammed and diverted by schoolchildren in yellow slickers whose mothers watch anxiously from picture windows as October shudders to an end. It’s a nearly perfect backdrop for an enduring sea tale about a terrible witch and her legacy of destruction: the Witch of November, the scourge of our inland seas, who swallows ships whole, steals lives, and strands mourners helpless on the shore.

    From the SS Edmund Fitzgerald (whose November 10, 1975 sinking was made famous the world over by Gordon Lightfoot’s ballad), to the twenty ships and 250 lives lost in the “Big Blow” of November 1913, to the tragic wreck of the Daniel J. Morrell on November 29, 1966, which killed all but one man, left shivering in his shorts and pea coat, the Great Lakes have claimed as many as ten thousand ships and more than thirty thousand lives since the wreck of LaSalle’s Griffon in 1679. Encrypted in the sodden debris of these disasters is the story of our lives, literal and metaphorical, and for that we keep coming back to search.

    Most of us respond to the alluring and tragic call of the depths by diving only about as deep as the latest news accounts of recent underwater archaeological discoveries, or by renting Titanic. But a brazen and growing subculture of hardy souls respond more daringly, by plunging into the murky waters to explore the treasure troves of history firsthand. The intrepid few who love to dive have a remarkable single-mindedness for exploration and adventure. Some are brave—or crazy—enough to take on the frigid waters of Lake Superior. A few have even gone 556 feet below the surface of Superior to visit the final resting ground of the twenty-nine crewmen who lost their lives on the Edmund Fitzgerald, also known as the Queen of the Great Lakes, the Pride of the American Flag, the Mighty Fitz, the Titanic of the Great Lakes, and, posthumously, the most famous Great Lakes shipwreck of all time.

    Terrence Tysall is a Florida-based professional diver and instructor, and the founder of the Cambrian Foundation, which is dedicated to undersea research, preservation, and exploration. He’s been diving since the age of eight and has seen hundreds of wreck sites, including that of the Edmund Fitzgerald. The expedition to the Fitz was the brainchild of a Chicagoan named Mike Zee, who approached Tysall in the mid 1990s with the notion of conducting a scuba dive to the famous wreck. Although the site had been explored via submarine by a handful of others—including Jacques Cousteau’s son, Jean-Michel, in 1980—no one had ever attempted to take on the intense pressure and cold with just a dry suit and air tanks. “Too deep, too dark, too cold,” explained Tysall. But his dual love of history and the sea compelled him to pursue the proposal, and, in 1995, he and his companions became the first ever to scuba dive to the Edmund Fitzgerald. “It turned out to be my deepest dive,” Tysall said. “In fact, I think it’s still the deepest wreck dive by free-swimming scuba divers—but I’m not a big record guy. I think records cheapen things sometimes.” According to Sean Ley of the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum in Sault Sainte Marie, Michigan, Tysall’s ’95 dive to the Fitzgerald was the first and the last to date. “It seems that everyone is respecting the wishes of the families,” said Ley, alluding to the wreck’s status as an underwater gravesite.

  • The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald

    When the Edmund Fitzgerald was launched in 1958, it was the largest ship to sail the Great Lakes. At 729 feet and able to haul more than 25,000 tons of iron ore, the freighter was dubbed “The Pride of the American Flag.” Year after year, the Fitzgerald hauled iron ore and taconite out of the Twin Ports, breaking records for tonnage along the way. But by 1975, the Fitzgerald was showing signs of age. A rigorous Coast Guard inspection in the spring of her last shipping season netted a seaworthy certification, but another routine inspection on October 31 revealed cracks in four topside cargo hatches. She was allowed to keep sailing, but repairs were ordered to take place prior to the start of the 1976 season.

    Capt. Ernest McSorley was also looking ahead to the next season. It would be his first year of retirement after forty-four years of sailing the Great Lakes and four seasons as master of the Fitzgerald. At sixty-two, he was a respected captain—both for his skill and for his will to keep to a tight schedule.

    On November 9, the Edmund Fitzgerald was embarking on its fortieth voyage of the season, hauling 26,116 tons of taconite from Superior Harbor to Detroit. Twenty-nine crewmen were aboard.

    The Fitz passed through the harbor channel at 2:20 p.m. in clear and relatively warm weather. Twenty minutes later, the National Weather Service posted a gale warning because of a storm system pushing up over Iowa, Minnesota, and Wisconsin.

    Two hours out of port, the Fitz sighted another freighter heading toward the east, the Arthur M. Anderson, a U.S. Steel ship mastered by Capt. Jesse Cooper. The Anderson was coming from Two Harbors. McSorley hailed the Anderson and the two captains agreed to travel together to the Soo Locks. The Fitzgerald, already fifteen miles ahead, would lead the way.

    By seven o’clock that evening, the National Weather Service was predicting forty-five-mile-an-hour winds and dangerous waves. The weather was quickly deteriorating. The prediction called for east to northeasterly winds during the night, shifting to northwest by the afternoon of November 10. At approximately 10:40 p.m., the forecast was revised to easterly winds becoming southeasterly the morning of November 10. By 1:00 a.m., the Fitzgerald was about twenty miles south of Isle Royale, confronted by heavy winds and ten-foot waves. At 2:00 a.m., the National Weather Service upgraded the gale warning to a storm warning with shifting sixty-mile-an-hour winds and fifteen-foot waves expected.

    About that time, the captains of the Anderson and Fitzgerald discussed the threatening weather and decided to change their route. Heading northward toward the coast of Canada would give them shelter from the expected eastern winds and heavy waves. The ships were already battling sixty-mile winds and torrential rain. Visibility was extremely poor.

    With the arrival of dawn, around the time that officials on land were issuing emergency warnings and school closings, the Edmund Fitzgerald reported its route change and an expected delay in arrival at the Soo Locks to the home office. Through the morning, the storm was gaining intensity, knocking out power across the Upper Peninsula and the Canadian coast.

    By 2:45 p.m., the winds had taken a significant turn. Now the storm was barreling out of the northwest, pushing up larger waves. The Anderson reported wind gusts over seventy miles an hour. The two ships had lost their land protection.

    The Coast Guard was calling on all ships to seek safe harbor. The captains decided to run south toward Whitefish Bay, their only hope for shelter. The Arthur Anderson was trailing faithfully sixteen miles behind as they approached Caribou Island. At 3:15, the Fitz rounded the island heading into the Six Fathom Shoal, a dangerous stretch where only thirty-six feet of water covered the jagged rocky bottom. Cooper followed the Fitzgerald’s progress on radar while crew members watched from the deck. As the Fitz slugged on, Morgan Clark, Cooper’s first mate, called out, “He sure looks like he’s in the shoal area.” Cooper replied, “He sure does. He’s in too close. He’s closer than I’d want this ship to be.”

    Around that time, McSorley radioed Cooper: “Anderson, this is the Fitzgerald. I have a fence rail down, two vents lost or damaged, and a list.” McSorley added that he was going to slow down so the Anderson could catch up. “Will you stay by me till I get to Whitefish?” Cooper replied, “Charlie on that, Fitzgerald. Do you have your pumps going?” McSorley replied, “Yes, both of them.”

    But the storm was only growing worse. The sea was pitching thirty to thirty-five foot waves. McSorley radioed the Anderson that the raging winds had ripped off the Fitzgerald’s radar antenna. A heavy snow began falling, obliterating Cooper’s view of the Fitzgerald’s lights dead ahead. Winds were gusting to ninety. The Fitz was taking on water faster than it could pump it out.

    At 4:30 p.m., the Fitz was seventeen miles from Whitefish Point. The lighthouse at the end of the rugged stretch of land would have been within view had the storm not knocked out both the radio beacon and light. Having already lost its radar and now with daylight fast slipping away, the Fitzgerald put a call out to any ship in the area for help in locating the Whitefish beacon.

    The Avafors, a Swedish ocean freighter in the vicinity, radioed McSorley the news of the missing signals. Around 6:00 p.m. the Avafors called again:


    Avafors:
    “Fitzgerald, this is the Avafors. I have the Whitefish light now but still am receiving no beacon. Over.”
    Fitzgerald: “I’m very glad to hear it.”

    Avafors:
    “The wind is really howling down here. What are the conditions where you are?”

    Fitzgerald:
    [Unintelligible shouts heard by the Avafors.] “Don’t let nobody on deck!”

    Avafors:
    “What’s that, Fitzgerald? Unclear. Over.”

    Fitzgerald:
    “I have a bad list, lost both radars. And am taking heavy seas over the deck. One of the worst seas I’ve ever been in.”

    Then at 7:10 p.m. the Anderson’s first mate, Clark, spoke to McSorley:


    Anderson:
    “Fitzgerald, this is the Anderson. Have you checked down?”

    Fitzgerald:
    “Yes, we have.”
    Anderson: “Fitzgerald, we are about ten miles behind you, and gaining about one and a half miles per hour. Fitzgerald, there is a target nineteen miles ahead of us. So the target would be nine miles on ahead of you.”

    Fitzgerald
    : “Well, am I going to clear?”

    Anderson:
    “Yes. He is going to pass to the west of you.”

    Fitzgerald:
    “Well, fine.”

    Anderson:
    “By the way, Fitzgerald, how are you making out with your problem?”

    Fitzgerald:
    “We are holding our own.”

    Anderson:
    “Okay, fine. I’ll be talking to you later.”

    But there would be no further conversations. Shortly after that, the Anderson was struck by two enormous waves in quick succession, plunging the ship’s bow into the water and hitting her hard enough to cause a heavy roll to the starboard side, damaging one of the lifeboats. Captain Cooper later reported, “I watched those two waves head down the lake toward the Fitzgerald, and I think those were the two that sent her under.”

    Ten minutes later the Fitzgerald disappeared from the Anderson’s radar. No distress signal went out. No lifeboats were launched. No life vests were donned.

  • Country Roads

    The thing I miss most about living in the country is the very thing I eventually came to hate about it: the long snake of black tar between one place and another, the empty distances, the endless driving. Oh, my God, how I miss the driving.

    I miss going for days and days without leaving the house in winter, little babies, creaky floors, nowhere to go, no one to see. Four walls, big window, bare branches, frozen lake.

    I miss stuffing those babies into snowsuits and then stuffing those snowsuits into car seats, clicking them in, and going, going, nowhere, for hours. Sleeping children, warm car, barren county roads. I can’t remember anymore the times it didn’t work. The times the baby boy screamed instead of slept, the times the spirited girl, that untamed horse, pulled his hair or bit him. The one time we skidded on black ice right into the ditch as a storm kicked up on the last afternoon of December. I don’t care about those times anymore now that we’ve survived and nobody kept screaming forever, or biting forever. They stopped those things, and it all turned out okay, and now I miss the driving the way I remember it.

    The car I hated the most is the one I now recall so fondly. Big Blue, we named it, because it was a boat, and it was blue. It was handed down from the in-laws for the eighteen hundred dollars it took to replace the transmission. We paid over time for this beast, large and unstylish with that dirty patch of duct tape on the taillight (smashed as it sat innocently in the small-town church parking lot-smashed, it would seem, by a fellow parishioner who drove away from the damage without so much as an apology note, can you imagine?). But I can’t remember the duct tape anymore, or the way driving that car made me feel like a cross between a grandpa and an unwed teenage mother. That’s not the way I remember Big Blue. It’s the heft of it that I recall, the solid slam of the door, the quiet way it hummed at high speeds-no shaking or whining the way these small tin boxes do. Big Blue had a way of rocking gently as it coasted that made me understand and appreciate the likening of large cars to watercraft. It’s a compliment, really, to call a car a boat. I loved Big Blue, even though I was very, very happy when it died.

    What I miss most about those country afternoons in Big Blue is the way it came to feel so normal to drive a long, long way to nowhere. Sometimes I took the children to the thrift store at the intersection that still poses as a town called Almelund. I’d carry my son on my hip while chasing my daughter around the store. But the chase was made easier by the woman who owned the shop-her strange appearance entranced my curious little girl. The shopkeeper always wore floor-length skirts with aprons, and frilly blouses with high collars, small buttons, and puffed sleeves. She looked like Ma Ingalls on Sunday. I don’t know why she dressed this way, because I never asked her. But she fit in pretty well with her surroundings. The air in the shop was dense with must, and the place was crammed floor to ceiling with broken antiques and unusual junk. I always, out of politeness, bought some tiny thing, usually a ten-cent plastic toy to keep my hyper mare occupied for the long drive home.

    But just as often as we stopped, we kept going, further east into Wisconsin, or north toward Pine City, children sleeping, motor whirring, road unrolling behind us like the world’s longest runner, steel gray and utterly inhospitable, except for its openness. The only choices to be made were trivial ones: Turn left or right? Exit now or later? Turn around or keep on driving?

    I miss the driving because I’ll never have it again. The country is behind me, the country with its right-wing politics and greasy-spoon food and frigid lake full of milfoil and disappointment. The country with its endless county roads crisscrossing each other and looping back on themselves, as senseless and difficult to decipher as the lines of an open palm. So many roads, so few destinations.
    My children don’t wear snowsuits anymore, or ride in car seats, or remember much about Big Blue. They have places to go with specific routes to appointed stops that leave little room for rumination. The city is full of destinations, but short on empty stretches of tar, of time, of space, where a person can travel hundreds of miles without ever leaving. I don’t ever want to drive that way again, so desperately and without purpose, but still I miss it more than I can say.