Category: Article

  • The Courtroom

    She didn’t tell me exactly what I have to wear, she just said to “dress my ass up,” Char tells Stephan. The three dust-topped round bulbs over the bathroom mirror whiten her face to stark, a finger of pewter shadows like chalk drawings under her eyes as she leans in close, paints in tiny pointillism black eye pencil a trace line along her eyelashes. In the heavy Wisconsin dampness, her breath fogs the glass while she draws with the certain hand of a practiced child.

    “That’s absurd. Your mother is ridiculous.” Stephan leans back, his hip bone juts above his low and sagging belt as he rests against the door frame; his grandmother’s bathroom has a pink tub, pink toilet, pink sink, and handrails are installed at angles on the walls. The boy is over six feet three in his platforms; spikes of his hair nearly brush the top of the thick-coated doorway.

    “No jeans. No holes,” Char says.

    “What does she think, you’re an idiot?”

    “I’ve told her to leave me alone with the fashion. I warned her.”

    “She has no idea.”

    “I’ve told her so many times.”

    “Did you bring that black velvet shirt?”

    “It’s on your bed. With the fuzzy skirt. Remember the Goodwill one?”

    Stephan finds it, the shirt flops in his hand like an overfed kitten; he spreads it out against his chest and looks in the mirror. Miniature onyx buttons close the front up to a V neckline laced with tiny black looped stitches and where he stretches it it slowly slinks back down to Extra Small.

    “The sleeves have to go. Walk in there sleeveless,” he tells her.

    “Do we have time?”

    “When’s the hearing?”

    “Two. And we have to ride bikes there.” Char puts down the eyeliner. She blinks at herself in the mirror. Distortion, camera-ready, eyes in animation, her black-caked lashes emphatic like flags for calling things home. “You’re coming with?”

    “Of course.” He holds the shirt up to Char’s chest and it droops there formless. “I’m chopping the sleeves; they’re low on the sides so it’ll work.”

    “Is it nympho-teenage-slut enough?”

    “It will be. See, you have no tits. I have nothing else to work with.”

    “The skirt. We have the skirt. It’s total fake animal-skin whore.”

    Stephan has orange-handled scissors and he snips the sleeves off slowly in the lint-specked light, precise, within thread widths of seams. Moisture from the growth of mildew along his grandmother’s tile grout lines at the bottom edge of her water-trailing plastic shower curtain rises misty in the heat. It smells like algae and rain and something eroding.

    “It’s Rhonda’s shirt. She will be so pissed,” Char says.

    “I can’t believe you’re wearing your mom’s hacked up shirt to her DUI hearing.”

    “No one tells me what to wear.”

    Incense burns in Stephan’s room, Charlotte unbuttons her shorts, drops them on the floor next to his bed where CDs are stacked and sliding in a broken mosaic on the carpet. She pulls on the secondhand and sleek furred skirt, a faded velour like calico cat inbred with silver glitter. It zips up the side. She sits and pulls white socks up to her knees. Her legs inside the cotton hang sticklike where she sits, her heels dangling against the dust ruffle.

    “You got my shirt?”

    “One sec.”

    Charlotte opens a brown lunch bag, she empties it onto the orange and green frayed afghan at the foot of the bed, chains and rings and scraps of leather and beads drop into the holes and weaves of the blanket.

    “Here. Try it.” Stephan holds out the shirt, now sleek, a lank vest. “Want me to do the buttons?”

    “I’ll pull it over.”

    Char gets up, pulls her T-shirt over her head and holds her arms up as she leans toward him, a hunched entreaty of slim bones and naked shoulders. Stephan drops the shirt bottom over her hands and she stands. The V neckline hits her midchest. The thin spread of her ribcage shows fanlike above the buttons.

    “You really have absolutely no tits, do you?”

    “I’m not even fifteen yet; give me a few weeks.”

    “Well, you have jewelry. That will help.”

    Charlotte strings her wrists with rawhide bands, rubber circles, a wide leather strap with scuffed studs that snaps closed. “What are you gonna wear?” she asks.

    “I was thinking yellow.”

    “Toss me that shoe.” Char points. The shoes are black with stacked four-inch heels and a wide strap below her ankle, deranged maryjanes on a gin run. She clips silver hoops into her earlobes and stands up. “What do you think?”

    “Jesus. You are almost scary.”

    “Psycho child slut?”

    “The judge is going to freak.”

    “I want him to cry.”

    “It’s Bombed-a who’s going to cry.”

    “Nobody tells me what to wear.”

    “What if it’s a woman judge?”

    “Whatever.”

    “What have you decided for drugs?”

    Char goes to the bathroom to check the mirror.

    “Oh my god. I look like a music video gone thrift store trash.” She walks back into the bedroom, sifts through the rest of the jewelry on the bed. A black cameo missing its pin. Screw back earring that looks like a wad of chewed gum.

    “I have the usual Valiums, some new Percocets from Grandma’s elbow thing last week,” Stephan says. “What do you want? Dope? I got vodka.”

    “How much time do we have?”

    “Hour.”

    “I have to be able to maintain, right? Nothing sloppy. I want that like droopy eye, sleazy porn girl kind of thing.”

    “No drinking then. It’s court.” Stephan looks at her, raises a finger. “A couple Valium now and one more when we get there.”

    “I won’t fall down or anything?”

    “What are you putting on? Dear god.”

    Charlotte laughs and turns to show him, a choke chain for a large-breed dog. Unruly around her neck, its throttling ring lies against her collarbone; heavy links pull it down as she moves, tethered baubles of discipline, industrial against her skin.

    “That is so perfect,” Stephan says. “You are too much. Bombed-a is going to lose her freaking mind.”

    “Is that the worst?” Char goes back out to the bathroom mirror and laughs again. “Should I put the leash on, too?” she calls to him.

    “I don’t know. What color is it?”

     

    Stephan and Char hold hands when they walk into the hearing room at the courthouse. The air conditioner clatters in the window and the linoleum is scuffed and bootblacked from years of heavy treads and weak cleansers. The humid weight of leftover smoke in the walls. A desk sits at the front of the room with an unplugged lamp and foam coffee cup on it and a few rows of folding chairs are lined up with a pathway down the center of them, like a jagged wedding aisle of the shotgunned. Rhonda is sitting in front and she looks back and spies them and glares. Char sees the twin lines between her mother’s eyebrows, parallel creases of rage and terror. A purse with a looped braid handle on her lap. A woman in a dark blue jacket sits next to Rhonda with a very straight back and Rhonda is so tiny that two of her would not be as wide as the woman. A man in a gray suit sits alone across the aisle from Rhonda and he stares ahead at the concrete block wall.

    “This is the sorriest. Is this really even a courtroom?” Stephan says.

    “There is like nobody here.”

    “I guess Bombed-a did not rate the big room. No camera crew for her.”

    “This room is too depressing. It’s like capacity 50.”

    “Are you sure this is even legal? Is this in the Constitution?”

    They sit in the back away from the aisle, the side farthest from Rhonda. The blue jacket woman looks over at them and then at Rhonda, who nods. The judge comes in and sits up front at the desk like a teacher starting class and a woman goes to a small desk to his right, the court reporter. The judge starts talking to Rhonda, Stephan reaches over with his hand cupped low at his lap and Char, taking the Valium from him without moving her eyes off the judge, palms the pill into her mouth. The adults talk on, reviewing and summarizing. Char has seen this downcast head of her mother before, from back seats and tavern doorways, in the kitchens of the concerned, through the glass that separates principals’ offices, her remorse false and ominous. Charlotte can almost feel the beating undercurrent coming now in waves from that exposed neck, her mother’s furies simmering and coiled and constant.

    “What is your mother wearing?” Stephan whispers. “Is that an actual Peter Pan collar?”

    “I can’t see.” Char leans forward and stretches. “Jesus. She’s wearing my dress.”

    “Good god. That is yours?”

    “She went into my closet and took out that dress.”

    “Seriously. Honey.”

    “That bitch.”

    “You cannot honestly resent her wearing that thing. Look at her. She looks like a shrunkenhead baby Jane doll.”

    “My Aunt Linda gave me that dress.”

    “Let Bombed-a have it. Forever.”

    “I got it in seventh grade. I can’t believe she would take that.”

    “Ms. Basler,” the judge says from the desk. “You understand that this is your fourth conviction for Operating While Intoxicated? Do you not understand this? I don’t see that you’ve made any serious attempts at all.”

    “Give me one of your rings,” Char says.

    “Which.”

    “Any one. Something clear.”

    Stephan has collections of rhinestones on his fingers. He holds out a deep red crystal solitaire, it glows laser infused. Char shakes her head no.

    “Like topaz even,” she whispers.

    “Here’s my poison potion holder.”

    The crystal is shaped into a faceted box and hinged; the lid opens and clips into place.

    “There’s a couple Vicodins in there,” Stephan tells her. “They’re old.”

    “That’s good. This will work.” Char puts it on her left ring finger.

    “And is this the minor child?” the judge says and looks at Char.

    Char stands up. She curls the toe of one of her shoes under her other foot, her hip dips down and she leans forward. “I’m the minor child.”

    “What’s your name?”

    “I’m Charlotte Basler. Sir.”

    “And you are how old?”

    Char holds her hand out to Stephan seated next to her, she flips her hair and looks down at him. She sees he is holding back his laugh.

    “I’m fourteen years old, your judge. Judging.”

    “All right.”

    “I’ll be fifteen at the end of the month.”

    “Who’s that with your daughter, Ms. Basler?” the judge says to Rhonda.

    “He’s my fiancé,” Charlotte answers. She sees her mother turn and look at her but Char doesn’t look back. She holds out the gigantic ring toward the judge.

    “What’s your name, son?”

    Stephan gets to his feet, his trousers are neon yellow and he’s wound ties around the ankles at the tops of his platform boots. The boy bends sideways into Char, his tie-dye shirt looks like it’s burst into flames.

    “Stephan Harrison, sir. We’re in love.”

    “All right, that’s fine,” the judge says. “Ms. Basler, do you know this boy?”

    “Yes.”

    “Are these children engaged to be married?”

    “No,” Rhonda says. “They’re. Don’t. Whatever.”

    “Your judge?” Charlotte says. “Your judgeship?”

    “Yes, miss.”

    “We are too engaged. I don’t know what my mother is talking about.”

    “She may be thinking that you’re too young to be engaged.”

    “That boy is gay,” Rhonda says. Charlotte gasps and pushes out her lower lip. She reaches down to scratch her thigh.

    “I beg your pardon,” Stephan announces to the room.

    “Not everyone is against gay marriage,” Charlotte says and pushes her shoulder into Stephan. He curls his arm around her, the two of them a mascara-smudged couple atop the wedding cake of the damaged. Char stares at the judge and puts her finger on her lip, she feels Stephan laughing, his ribs hard against her side.

    “Please have a seat,” the judge tells them. “Sit down.”

    “Can you feel the rage?” Stephan whispers in Char’s ear. “Bombed-a is going to blow up into tiny pieces and turn into rain.”

    “Here’s me, the minor child,” Char whispers.

    “And I think you’re homeless now.”

    They are laughing harder, her shoulders hurt from it, the judge talks on and Char has her hand tight over her mouth.

    “Let’s go. Let’s go. I am dying,” Char says.

    They stand up and Char really feels the Valiums now, she trips over the leg of the heavy aluminum chair next to the aisle, it clangs like a BB shot in the stuffy room and they stumble out the door at the back and no one calls to them to stop. In the corridor the cackle of their laughing echoes, and they slump into each other as they go, arm in arm past the vending machines and a man reading a newspaper in a T-shirt that says Bud Light.

    “Goodbye, mister judge,” Char calls back behind them when Stephan opens the door at the entrance. The hot air settles on them like a soggy quilt. “Did you see blue jacket look at me? She wanted to kill me.”

    “I will never get over your mother in that dress. That will haunt me for the rest of my life. Was that like gingham?”

    “I hope they put her in jail.”

    “They won’t.”

    “Minor child.”

    “They never will. You’ll have to ride her around to the bars on your bike.”

    They are tall in their platforms and weave as they walk to the bike rack at the side of the lot. Stephan has the key, he takes off his U-lock where it’s clamped both their bikes to the steel bars and Charlotte’s laughing still. He stops her a second in the sunlight; a tiny black thread dangles on her shoulder from the clipped shirt seam and he reaches to pull it away.

     

  • Chasing Life

    Dan Buettner is best known as a writer and extreme adventurer who rode his bike around the world from east to west and from north to south through the Americas and Africa and Europe and Asia. He has crossed the roadless Sahara desert, numerous jungles, and active war zones. He has contracted dozens of diseases and hosted plenty of parasites. He has written three books, and has had his every move monitored by millions of schoolchildren. But Dan Buettner really got his start in croquet.

     

    The first time I’d heard of Buettner, things were looking up for the crew of AfricaTrek, a record-setting bicycle trip from the Mediterranean Sea to the Cape of Good Hope. In April of 1993, the Star Tribune published one of its periodic dispatches from the trek, with this introduction: “They forded eighty bridgeless rivers, survived on roast monkey meat and bananas and gashed their legs crashing off muddy rainforest paths. Now the four men bicycling across Africa think the tough part is over.” But what stuck with me about this report was the account of a stretch through Zaire (now Congo), where dictator Mobutu Sese Seko’s rule was violently crumbling, when the team’s wounds would not heal because of the intense humidity they were encountering. It sounded like pure hell.

    Thirteen years later, at a coffee shop near Macalester College not far from where he lives, Buettner relayed even more gruesome outtakes from AfricaTrek. He enumerated the various parasites and sicknesses that caused the four riders to lose eighty pounds among them by the time they reached the Congo. He told me a horrifying story about seeing corpses on the highway while biking through Nigeria, where no drivers stopped to investigate or even move this “human roadkill.”

    “I am not going to lie, it was hell, and if I had just been on my own doing it for fun, I would have quit,” he said, in a momentary departure from what one of his friends calls his ruthless optimism. “But when you make commitments, I think they really drive you through times of hardship. I had all these sponsors, I had a staff of people, I had all these classrooms following us along with CNN. Knowing we would let them let down if we quit—that was kind of our saving grace.”

    Dan Buettner is forty-five years old, though he could pass for a decade younger. He’s the father of three kids ranging in age from elementary school to college. He typically dresses in a way that most baby boomers can no longer pull off. At the coffee shop, for example, he wore an ironed aquamarine shirt unbuttoned one button too far, with a beaded necklace threaded through a weathered Asian coin. But hey, I figure a guy who pushed his bike across the Sahara, which he calls “a sandbox the size of the United States,” is entitled to a lifetime’s worth of open shirts. On top of that, he dates seventies supermodel Cheryl Tiegs, who presumably requires some bold fashion choices from her companion. And that bauble around his neck? No doubt it’s a precious gift from a friend he made in some exotic, far-flung destination.

    For Buettner, life gets more interesting as he gets older, and his most recent project is all about aging. “About two and a half years ago, I came across an article about baby boomers and how there were seventy million of them and every seven seconds another one turns fifty,” Buettner said. It occurred to him that these baby boomers, whose interests are shifting from the recreational drugs of their youth to prescription drugs like Prilosec and Cialis, would be interested in learning how to add a few years to their lives. He was able to enlist as sponsors and partners such respected organizations as the National Geographic Society, the National Institute on Aging, the National Institute of Neurological Disorders and Stroke, the University of Minnesota School of Public Health to create what he calls the Blue Zones project.

    Buettner says there are at least four regions on the planet that are demographically confirmed to lead their respective continents in life expectancy, in disability-free life expectancy (a measure of the quality of life in later years), or in concentration of centenarians. He has dubbed these regions “blue zones.”

    This month, Buettner’s account of his initial visits to three blue zones—Okinawa Island in Japan, Sardinia in Italy, and the city of Loma Linda in California—will be published in National Geographic. Among other things, the work examines how the diet, lifestyle, spirituality, and social relations of people in these regions may hold clues to their longevity. (He declines to name the fourth blue zone at present.)

    But the twelve-hundred-word article is only the beginning for Buettner. Starting October 31, he’ll be leading a new expedition back to Okinawa Island in Japan. It’s his first adventure in more than two years, and the first of four blue-zone educational “Quests” he’ll lead this and each subsequent fall (Sardinia is scheduled for 2006). This portion of his work is the real nut of the subject. He and his team of fourteen adventurers will spend ten days conducting intensive research and trying to learn more about how longevity works. Through his Blue Zones website, millions of students and interested adults will follow and supervise the quest.

    In 1984, Buettner was a recent graduate of the University of St. Thomas who had returned from a year in Spain, where he had backpacked, discovered a latent talent for bike racing, and learned Spanish, among other things. As he describes it, he “blundered” into a dream job with National Public Radio in Washington, D.C. His assignment was to help the legendary literary editor and participatory journalist George Plimpton organize a celebrity croquet tournament. The event was a fundraiser for NPR but was backed by a developer in Boca Raton, Florida, who wanted to draw attention to a new development. Buettner helped recruit forty celebrities who were each paired with three big-dollar donors. Why croquet? “It was one of these sports that’s semi-aristocratic,” he said, adding that it required no special ability from either celebrity or donor.

    Buettner cultivated a special knack for connecting the rich with the famous, and for getting his travel expenses paid. In addition to being flown regularly from Boca Raton to Washington to New York, where he was put up in the San Moritz Hotel, he also swung a deal where the tournament’s sponsors would fly him and several of his fellow organizers home every weekend. “But instead of saying that home was St. Paul, where it was freezing, we rented an apartment in Freeport, Grand Bahama Island. So every weekend we’d get to fly to the Bahamas, and it was a fabulous experience!”

    The life of the leisure class had fallen into his lap. “I think that, like most college graduates, I aspired to the same kind of life of wealth and ease that Americans generally strive for,” Buettner told me. “But this year was so wonderful to me. I got to ride around in limousines all week. We had an unlimited expense account, ate at the finest restaurants. And after nine months I was sick of it. I didn’t give a damn about nice restaurants—I mean, I wanted to go home and make a sandwich! I was living the life of someone who was fifty-six and very successful, so I had this wonderful opportunity to look ahead. It was almost like one of those Ebenezer Scrooge epiphanies where you see where you’re going to be in the future and see you don’t want to end up there. So you change your path.”

  • My Blue Heaven

    A disheveled man paced the intersection of Snelling and University avenues, waving his arms as he described to passersby how his car had broken down and he’d been sleeping at the nearby Catholic church. If somebody would spare some change, he promised, he’d be on his way. The man had plenty of pedestrians to talk to, as the Midway is an area of the city where people walk, whether to Ragstock or the Safarii coffee shop or Big Top Liquor. The panhandler finally approached an older woman leaning on a cane. She listened to the man’s story, and then scoffed, “That’s a Baptist church,” and hobbled away.

    In the 1890s, University Avenue was a streetcar line and Snelling was a bumpy path leading to the fort of the same name. The intersection was largely populated by military men waiting for various streetcars. Both routes were soon paved and the Midway became St. Paul’s industrial epicenter. Workers here fixed streetcars, shoveled coal, loaded trains, and filled orders for old-style department stores like Montgomery Ward. With the workers came houses and shops and bars, like the now-hip Turf Club, which once served doughboys on leave from overseas, and has since been dubbed University Avenue’s “best remnant of the 1940s.” A half block away sits Big V’s Saloon, the Turf’s main competition for local rock shows. Some of the drums hammered on both stages come from Ellis Drum Shop on Snelling, which outfits the Bad Plus’ Dave King, for one.

    The Midway is lousy with old-style, one-of-a-kind places, like the somewhat claustrophobic Midway Used and Rare Books, which opened its doors in 1965. It has since supplemented its collection of pulp novels and other pop culture ephemera with an impressive selection of literature and books on art and photography. And, while you can’t buy the hulking iron lung at Ax-Man Surplus on University, you can pick up a bucket of glass beads, a gas mask, or a wagonload of old wooden fruit crates.

    In recent years, the Midway has evolved. Mainstays have been supplemented by stores and restaurants opened by newcomers to the neighborhood—Hmong, Latinos, and African-Americans. Now you’ll find the tasty Mirror of Korea, the Black Sea Turkish restaurant, and a host of ethnic groceries and gyros joints. The streetcar garage that used to anchor the intersection’s southeast corner has become a mall that stretches across two blocks, where locals can have their nails done, buy groceries, bowl, and play bingo.

    But one thing remains stubbornly the same. The Midway still bleeds blue-collar frugality: Whatever is here must be cheap and it must be good. The Turf Club’s prices, for example, have hardly risen in six decades. A person can still get a pint for little more than bus fare, though it’s always wise to have both, lest you be forced to beg from old locals leaning on canes.—Brian Voerding

  • A Flair for the Dramatic

    We’re always invigorated by a brisk autumn of theatergoing; this year, the season has been even more robust thanks to a trio of theater-themed parties. There was no shortage of spectacle on the opening-night galas at the Guthrie Theater and the Children’s Theater, where the line between costume and couture was wonderfully blurred. Where else can one strike such an effective pose in an Elizabethan collar? At the brand-new Ivey Awards, a tony (and Tony-inspired) to-do replete with a red carpet out on Hennepin Avenue, it was clear that this event is destined to be fêted as far as fashion sightseeing goes. With an abundance of suited-up dandies and women displaying imaginative uses of slinky acetate, we were happy to see that theatrics were not limited to the stage.

  • The Beaufort Scale of Conflict

    Number, Name—Identifiers; Description

    0, Calm—Skin tone normal; Passive agreement, no apparent problems

    1, Flap—Dirty looks cast Long periods of silence, punctuated by grunts

    2, Squabble—Eyes narrow Widespread nitpicking, mild name-calling

    3, Dust-up—Some color in the cheeks; Ungrounded accusations, small threat of physical contact

    4, Spat—Clenched fists, jaw; Open name-calling, disagreement on facts

    5, Row—Notable presence of spittle; Listening stops, continuous mutual belittlement

    6, Fracas—High color in cheeks; Third parties get involved

    7, Tussle—Some damage to hearing possible; Third parties and damned “peacemakers” begin to interfere

    8, Kerfuffle—Personal space no longer observed; Local newspaper takes notice, credible threats of violence

    9, Donnybrook—Stuttering; Punches thrown

    10, Brawl—Eyes bugging; Legally actionable punches thrown

    11, Melee—Head-butting; Stay away. Stay far away.

    12, Republican Majority—Lifeless eyes, communication primarily through blogging; Loss of all respect for dissent, and non-fetal human life

  • Loading the Canon

    Libby Larsen has an athleticism and youthfulness that’s unusual for her fifty-four years. Her tiny, five-foot frame is lithe and wiry like a marathon runner’s. And she talks as fast as it looks like she can run. From the moment she walked into the D’Amico & Sons café near her South Minneapolis home, she was holding forth passionately on such varied topics as the restaurant’s dessert display, the addition to the Walker Art Center, and the broken institution of classical music criticism. (“He’s okay,” was the best compliment she could offer on Alex Ross, the esteemed critic for The New Yorker.) Sometimes, Larsen can’t keep up with her thoughts, and will interrupt herself to explore a new,

    parenthetical notion. As she does so, she gestures dramatically—waving her thin arms or cutting her long fingers through the air, her straight brown hair spilling over her sharp collarbone and shoulders. The Current, the station Minnesota Public Radio launched last spring, also came up in polite conversation, along with Radiohead and Björk. But what Larsen went on about with the most enthusiasm was jazz and orchestral music, her two favorite genres, and how she’s been trying to marry these in some compositions she’s been writing in the past few years.

    Just as Brahms drew on contemporary gypsy melodies and Verdi was inspired by Neapolitan folk music, Larsen’s compositions borrow from jazz, gospel, and pop—not unlike the work of Aaron Copland and Leonard Bernstein. And if critics so far haven’t elevated her to the status of those two, that’s not for a lack of work to assess. Having produced more than two hundred pieces in all, including sixteen operas and fifty recordings, Larsen is one of the most prolific and often-performed living American composers. She’s awfully busy. Why? “I’m trying so hard to communicate what it’s like to be alive—right now,” she explained.

    As someone born in the United States in 1950—sixty-two years after the invention of the gramophone, and in the middle of a century during which the U.S. utterly transformed both music and the ways we listen to it—what she’s talking about is plugging in. “My ears have been trained on music that’s been mixed, recorded, and played through speakers,” she explained. “I love the concert hall. I love live music. But I also love the produced sonic experience where there’s compression and bass boosting.”

    Larsen has long been interested in combining acoustic, classical instruments—even operatic voice—with prerecorded, studio-produced sound. In 1991, for example, she wrote Schoenberg, Schenker, and Schillinger, a synthesizer-meets-symphony honoring Mozart. For the most part, she wrote straightforward acoustic music for the Los Angeles Chamber Orchestra’s set ensemble. One section, though, consisting entirely of prerecorded sounds, was to be played on a sampler. Unfortunately, the orchestra’s pianist had never touched such an instrument. Just before the concert, she approached Larsen backstage. “She said to me, ‘I was out there testing and the sampler doesn’t work.’” Larsen tried to go have a look, but was prevented from doing so by a union stagehand—only union members were allowed onstage at that highly regulated moment between songs. The stagehand investigated and reported back with the same grim news: The sampler was not functioning.

    “To make a long story short, they played the piece without the sampler,” said Larsen, rolling her eyes. “The problem was that the power was off. It didn’t occur to the pianist or the stagehand to turn the power on,” she said solemnly. Suddenly, she threw back her head and laughed. “It was hilarious and wonderful,” she said between chuckles.

    Larsen’s music, like her personality, is highly likeable—both friendly and visceral. “She’s just so irresistible as a person. You want to engage with her,” said Robert Neu, general manager of the Minnesota Orchestra and an admirer of Larsen’s who has commissioned her music. A range of other heavy hitters from classical music world have commissioned her work, from the Minnesota Opera and the esteemed British men’s choir the King’s Singers to pretty much every major American symphony. A number of works, such as Parachute Dancing and Water Music, pieces for full orchestras, went on to become near-standard in the American orchestral repertoire.

    Even so, many devotees of modern classical music can’t identify her music by ear—perhaps because it doesn’t challenge the ear, per se. Larsen’s work seems unconcerned with twelve-tone composing, for example, a contemporary technique made famous by the twentieth-century composer Arnold Schoenberg (which, according to Neu, “has never resonated with the audience and never will”). Nor is Larsen a minimalist along the lines of Philip Glass and John Adams. It “sounds like music to the average listener,” said Sam Bergman, a Minnesota Orchestra violist and an editor for

    ArtsJournal.com. But it does have a certain playful ring. Sometimes, the sounds feel improvised. In one of her art songs, for example, an operatic soprano suddenly compromises her pitch to dig up a bluesy snarl. In All Around Sound, which the Minnesota Orchestra commissioned for its Young People’s Series, Larsen instructs the percussionist to dribble a basketball. Along those lines, her scores often get musicians clapping, slapping knees, or even stomping their feet.

    Larsen is well known for her “programmatic,” or narrative music, operas and song cycles that borrow from such literary sources as E.B. White, Emily Dickinson, and William Carlos Williams, as well as historical figures like P.T. Barnum and Eleanor Roosevelt. “Her work has an American feel—a sort of Coplandesque, open sound,” is how Stephen Paulus, Larsen’s colleague and longtime friend, encapsulated her oeuvre. It’s airy. Melodic. Your ears hang on its heavy jazz and street drum influences. Her pieces for orchestra, like Parachute Dancing, also follow a storyteller’s slope. They feel almost cinematic.

    “The flow and pitch set of a melody, the rhythm, really comes from the language of the culture it comes from,” said Larsen of her music last spring, when she gave a lecture at the Minnesota History Center. To demonstrate, she played Bright Rails, a song for soprano and piano; set to a poem by Willa Cather, it mimics the choo-choo of a nineteenth-century locomotive trundling over the prairie. Then she played Salute to Louis Armstrong, a work she calls “a fully notated jam session for chorus.” For this song, she asked the VocalEssence singers to shoop-shoop, scat, and doo-wop.

    “She’s really brave to do it,” said Abbie Betinis, a burgeoning young composer whom Larsen has mentored, of Larsen’s penchant for injecting opera, orchestra music, and art songs with jazz and other American influences. “It could mean writing herself out of a job, because the more she goes outside the realm of classical music, the less classical musicians feel akin to it.”

    Betinis, who is a composer-in-residence at the Schubert Club in St. Paul, may be onto something. In an environment where minimalist, almost mathematical music is highly in vogue, the “openness” of Larsen’s music, to some erudite ears, sounds embarrassingly basic—and, to be fair, Copland’s music suffered some of these same criticisms in his day. “That’s where there’s been some backlash against Libby,” said Bergman. “Her music is never difficult. And we’ve reached a point in this industry where that’s seen as a derogatory thing.”

    So why, then, does a comprehensive survey of hundreds of critical reviews of Larsen’s work, published in major American newspapers during the past five years, turn up nary a single column-inch of negativism? By and large, classical music critics see themselves as champions of new music, said Bergman; at the same time, orchestras and opera companies tend to focus on the classics. He believes that in some cases, whispered backstage criticism might be attributable to orchestra musicians’ hostility toward new music—after all, if Larsen’s music challenges anything, it’s the way these musicians regard the concert hall and their own instruments.

    Larsen’s unorthodox views about the institution of classical music can be traced back to her graduate school years, in the early seventies, when she was studying at the University of Minnesota under another renowned Minnesotan composer, Dominick Argento. One day Larsen and her then-classmate Stephen Paulus had the radical notion that their music should be heard. “We were sitting on the steps of Scott Hall, the old music building,” said Paulus, “and we said, ‘Here we’re writing all these pieces for our music composition classes. What a shame we don’t get to hear our music played!’”

    This compelled the pair to found the Minnesota Composers Forum, an organization dedicated to producing contemporary classical music concerts, in 1973. But neither Larsen nor Paulus was selfish about programming those first shows. “We always made sure we had just one work in each of the concerts,” said Paulus. “We’d say, ‘What do you got?’ ‘I’ve got a piece for guitar.’ ‘Well, I’ve got a piece for soprano and piano,’ and we filled other people’s work in for everything else.” While Larsen and Paulus are no longer involved, they helped the organization grow into the American Composers Forum, a national group dedicated to helping composers get their work performed.

    If finding an audience was a concern in the seventies, by the eighties, Larsen was engaged with new questions. In 1984, as a composer-in-residence at the Minnesota Orchestra, she began to wonder why people her own age were not coming to concerts—and why non-European composers weren’t integrated into the orchestra’s programming. “I started studying classical music in America and its intrinsic value [to American culture]. It’s a very hard thing to study because the question of its value is a new frontier—it’s yet to be explored,” she said, slapping her palm against the café table for emphasis.

    Several awkward seconds passed. For someone so deeply connected to the concert hall experience, rumors of its demise are painful. Larsen looked down at her hand, now pressed flat against the tabletop. “The first thing that came into my mind is that we’re all in our cars.”

    That flash of inspiration about car culture and classical music was borne out many years later, when the McKnight Foundation published its landmark study, A New Angle: Arts Development in the Suburbs. The 2002 study hinted that the foundation might, in the future, direct more of its funding toward suburban arts centers. To say the least, the study put urban artists and arts institutions on alert, especially those like Minnesota Orchestra and Saint Paul Chamber Orchestra, who regularly received McKnight funding and subscribed to the notion that suburbanites must drive to the city for serious art.

    Intrigued by the McKnight study, Larsen applied for an “educational chairwomanship” with the Library of Congress—basically a grant that allowed her to study issues surrounding American orchestral music, such as the ongoing battle to sell tickets, the resistance to performing works by American composers, and the withering social status of the concert hall. She will recount her findings in The Concert Hall that Fell Asleep and Woke Up as a Car Radio, a book she plans to finish in the coming months.

    Through her research, Larsen has come to believe that 1902 is a key date in the evolution of orchestral music in the United States. That’s when the Victor Talking Machine Company launched a simple marketing effort, packaging its gramophones with Red Seal Records. The recordings included works by Mozart, Beethoven, and Brahms—the basic German canon. “It was very avant-garde because no one had records,” Larsen said. “Then once people heard the recording, they wanted to hear it live.”

    Around that same time, railroad transportation was burgeoning, too, which not only led to the construction of more concert halls, but also allowed full orchestras to embark on cross-country tours. Suddenly, fans everywhere had a chance to hear their Red Seal recordings performed live. Mendelssohn’s Wedding March, Brahms’s Symphony No. 1—these were among the first hits of the recording age.

    In 1929, the Radio Corporation of America bought the Victor Talking Machine Company and used its catalog of recorded orchestra, opera, and oratorio songs to develop music appreciation courses for radio broadcast. The courses were designed to indoctrinate the masses with classical music and, perhaps, get a catchy waltz or two stuck in their heads. Though RCA discontinued them in 1944, their legacy lives on. “That’s where the core of our classical music canon comes from,” said Larsen. “That’s what we’re dealing with, even today.” As a testament to her point, she pointed out that Brahms’ Symphony No. 1 is being played this season by major orchestras in New York, Los Angeles, Minnesota, Atlanta, Chicago, Houston, Seattle, Dallas, and Phoenix.

    Since 1944, of course, the way we listen to music has changed. The rich textures of vinyl records have given way to reels, cassettes, CDs, and MP3s. The static of AM broadcasting was displaced by the crisp, clear hum of the FM airwaves. Our ears grew accustomed to music that’s recorded, studio-produced, and, above all, pristine. This doesn’t bode well for the concert hall, where the slightest sniffle or cough, or even just shifting in your seat can pollute your neighbor’s appreciation of the unamplified sound. “It finally hit me—this isn’t any fun!” Larsen wailed about concert hall performances. “I cannot be in my body! I can’t let my body respond to the music!”

    At the same time, the burgeoning popularity of jazz, country, and rock ’n’ roll created venues where concertgoers can, as Larsen said, “be themselves.” Clanking beer bottles, loud conversations, or even a brawl are no match for the sound systems at, say, First Avenue or the Dakota Bar and Grill. Larsen likes the no-holds-barred quality of music heard in rock and jazz clubs, where the experience is not dispelled by the shuffling feet and commentary of listeners (and often is diffused with earplugs). But even with all that, and even though she can’t fully explain it and it puts her body in a stiff, awkward place, she loves, above all, the concert hall and its gentle wall of acoustic sound that washes over her ears. She loves how concert hall music sounds.

    The founding of the Composers’ Forum, along with Larsen’s epiphany about how the fate of the concert hall and all the rest of her scholarly work, have spawned something of a secondary career—that of a contemporary classical music thinker, educator, and author. Larsen is entrenched in many rather philosophical projects. (“I’m very bored,” she joked at a recent lecture. “I spend a lot of time alone so I do all this thinking.”) She has an appointment at the Department of Defense, of all places, to develop new musical curricula for schools on military bases. And in addition to working on The Concert Hall that Fell Asleep and Woke Up as a Car Radio, she’s been approached, by a publisher about updating What to Listen for in Music, a classic written by Aaron Copland in 1957.

    Has Larsen become more a scholar or figurehead than a composer? “She’s got her fingers in a lot of pots,” said Paulus. “It’d be difficult to be involved in all those things and write music the way she had.” Larsen concedes that side projects may have interfered with composition, but says that’s soon to change. “I’m completely done with my work for the government,” she said with a laugh during a conversation last month. “My life, by design, will be composing and writing.” She’s slated to begin two new operas; one of them, Every Man Jack, is based on the last twelve hours of Jack London’s life and was commissioned by Sonoma City Opera in California. She described the piece as “combining standard operatic techniques with electronic techniques in the orchestra.” The popular American music reference will come from an original player piano from the early twentieth century. “I’ve collected a number of piano rolls [London] would have heard during his time,” she said.

    If there’s a single musician with whom Larsen feels the greatest kinship, it’s Louis Armstrong. “I should have dedicated my third symphony to him. I think I will now,” said Larsen. “It was my first challenge to an orchestra. In the third movement, I asked the orchestra to tightly play bebop.”

    We were talking in teh living room of Larsen’s spacious, three-story Tudor just off Lake of the Isles, which she shares with her husband, James Reece, an attorney. Shoes were off, so as not to soil the rugs. The grand piano was shining and spotless. The place is impressive and elegant; it hardly looks like Larsen’s chief workspace. But in fact, much of her composing is done, pencil-to-paper, at the dining room table. Upstairs, in a carpeted, loft-like office, an assistant, Brad, worked on the business side of Libby Larsen operations.

    Armstrong and his swing ensemble, Larsen said, had the amazing ability to rigidly follow their musical scores, which were often very complicated and densely arranged, and yet still give one another license to leave the score, once the music compelled them to riff on their own.

    Those unscripted jams embody what Larsen calls “groove” (and, yes, for all her love of popular music, she managed to sound rather prim pronouncing that word, ensconced in an oversized Provençal armchair in her living room). Groove, she said, is an indescribable energy that emanates from jazz, honky-tonk, blues, and rock. It’s something that musician and listener feel together; it both feeds and is fed by the audience. As the basis for beauty in African music, groove is, by extension, in American music, too. European music, on the other hand, is more concerned with pitch, traditionally valuing high pitches above all else.

    Armstrong was unique in that he recognized the beauty of both groove and pitch, of improvisation and exactitude. He quoted Mozart and Brahms in the midst of his own jazz and swing compositions, for example. He spoke many musical languages and, as a result, attracted listeners with varied, sometimes opposing musical histories and tastes. Larsen aims for her music to do something similar. She wants to bridge the schism between popular and classical music. This reflects her own experience of music: When songs form in her head, she often hears classical elements ringing with pop influences. But it’s also her contribution to reinvigorating—and in the long term perhaps even preserving—the acoustic concert hall experience.

    Armstrong’s music was embraced by Europeans long before it found an audience at home. Similarly, Larsen finds herself working in the “old world” more often these days, even though much of her music continues to get off the ground in the United States, where it is written and most often premiered. For example, the Armstrong-inspired doo-wop-wop she wrote for the VocalEssence choir has since become popular in France and Spain. Furthermore, because American orchestra unions command such steep recording royalties on behalf of their musicians, Larsen is forced to do most of her recording abroad. “This is a real frustration for me. The music that I write pushes through the language of jazz and rock ’n’ roll. American musicians can play it because they live it,” she said. “In Europe, the musicians are fabulous, but they don’t sing gospel. They don’t breathe the same musical air.”

    Some of America’s popular contemporary composers—John Adams and Philip Glass, for example—continue to experiment with minimalism, and others emulate the European masters; Larsen, however, has kept her ears tuned to folksy, hookier influences—not just Armstrong, but also jazz pianist Art Tatum, Leonard Bernstein, and blues singer Bessie Smith. Like them, she finds herself increasingly concerned with blues, boogie-woogie, and the kind of beats that give American music its kick. Sometimes that means borrowing from the rhythm of basketball, or mimicking the cadence of a preacher or auctioneer. Larsen has a soft spot for the Old West, too; besides the work inspired by Willa Cather and Jack London, she’s also penned odes to Calamity Jane and Billy the Kid. And she likes cars, too—fast ones. “Four on the Floor,” a dense, almost impossibly fast piece for violin, cello, bass, and piano, is about joyriding in her dad’s 1957 red Thunderbird convertible. In it, you can hear the crank of the V-8, the open road rushing underneath. Finger-picked notes race past one another. Apparently, Larsen has a lead foot.

  • Mother's Little Helper

    Up to the 1960s, the apron served as a potent symbol of American womanhood. These lovingly adorned little swatches of cloth represented comfort and security and perfectly browned pot roasts. Then the women’s
    movement came along and the frills fell away. Since then, aprons have mostly been utilitarian and unisex, of the
    “Kiss the Cook” variety. That’s what makes this collection
    of oldies so impressive and so fascinating. Pulled together by Dorothy Sauber, a women’s studies professor at
    Anoka-Ramsey Community College, it includes more
    than one hundred specimens, on display at the
    Hennepin History Museum through December 31.

  • Above His Station

    Those fond of appropriating F. Scott Fitzgerald’s observation that “the very rich are different from you and me” rarely include the follow-up—the part about why they are so. “They possess and enjoy early,” Fitzgerald explained in The Rich Boy, “and it does something to them, makes them soft where we are hard, and cynical where we are trustful.” This awareness might have first sprouted during his years at the St. Paul Academy, where he shared a private education with the sons of lumber barons and grain tycoons. Fitzgerald’s use of the inclusive “you and me” is somewhat attenuated, of course, given that he was at least sharing lavatories with them. But in Paris Hilton’s America (let’s allow Barbara Bush to speak for herself), where the slightest hint of a persona can seize fame when backed by a trust fund the size of Belgium, Fitzgerald’s indictment of the rich kid whizzing decadently into the next urinal still resonates.

    Jerome Hill, class of ’22, would likely have proved the exception had he not attended the academy a decade after Fitzgerald. Jerome demonstrated an earnest and incisive creative talent from an early age. And he was rich in the veriest sense. His grandfather was James J. Hill, empire builder and the patriarch of Summit Avenue, where his Romanesque mansion and the cathedral he built to honor his wife’s Catholicism still form the gateway to the grandest procession of homes in Minnesota. Jerome grew up next door, and fortune allowed him to self-publish a volume of poetry in his adolescence, to acquire a music degree at Yale, to master painting in the academies of Paris, and to contemplate the art of photography with Edward Weston.

    Yet such was the demand for seemly perfection amid all that wealth that the Hills’ home movies were filmed by Hollywood newsreel crews. Hill tells the story in the autobiographical Film Portrait of his artistic young self having to lark for the camera in front of an easel that held a painting left professionally unfinished by a hired artist. Hungry for a life beyond the striving capitalism of his family, Hill found a spiritual home as a young man in the Provençale town of Cassis, where he began to summer in 1931. He eventually acquired a villa there that became a veritable summer camp for artists, a place where hands and minds could never idle. He supported still more artists financially, and used his resources to compose, paint, photograph, and film with humbling diligence. Indeed, that very multidisciplinary productivity and his generous distribution of the wealth behind it may have prevented Hill’s reputation as a serious artist. Nonetheless, the avant-garde filmmaker Stan Brakhage, a friend and associate during Hill’s later years, was convinced that Hill achieved artistic success despite his wealth.

     

    Hill made his largest creative splash in cinema. (Walker Art Center pays tribute with A Filmmaker and His Legacy, four nights of screenings featuring his films and those of filmmakers supported by his foundation, from November 16 to 19.) He began to experiment seriously with the medium during the twenties and thirties, when the art of cinema was still young. In 1939, he collaborated with the Austrian Otto Lang on a short reel about alpine skiing on Washington’s Mount Rainier that received wide distribution in American theaters. During World War II, he produced training films for the American Army, and brought to his service many archived photographs of the south of France that were helpful for military intelligence.

    Hill’s first independent effort after the war was his 1950 film portrait of Anna Mary Robertson “Grandma” Moses. The director could not have been more different from his subject. Grandma Moses did not take up painting until she had farm-raised, fledged, and then outlived half of her ten children, and at that late hour only because her hands were ruined for domestic toil. Hill was a gay man approaching middle age who had learned to paint with one hand while the other clutched a silver spoon. But his admiration for Moses and her work is obvious. The opening scenes, which depict the nonagenarian’s domestic life, go a little heavy on the syrup and hokum. But a signature of Hill’s oeuvre is his trust in the ability of images to speak for themselves, and a five-minute idyll late in the film features only music, a few sounds, and slow panning across a variety of her paintings to great effect.

    Grandma Moses was nominated for an Academy Award, as was Hill’s next effort, a feature-length documentary about Albert Schweitzer, a name once synonymous with selfless Christian charity. Hill portrays the wizened physician and theologian’s sworn enmity to human misery with reverence: A lengthy scene recording Schweitzer’s rendition of a Bach prelude on the church organ in his native Alsatian village expresses pitch-perfect solemnity. Hill and his cinematographer Erica Anderson also spent weeks at Schweitzer’s hospital deep in the interior of Gabon in West Africa, where fungus crept into their lenses and the subtropical heat melted the film soon after exposure if it was not promptly dispatched. The film shoulders the white man’s burden during a few uncomfortable moments, due largely to screen idol Frederic March’s voicing of translations of Schweitzer’s writings. But Hill also lingers on the faces of the ill and destitute with a tenderness well beyond pity, and a final sequence that ponders what it means to be human against this backdrop of suffering and cultural isolation is transcendent and powerful. The effect was rewarded: Hill won the 1958 Oscar for best documentary feature.

    He intended thereafter to profile the Swiss psychiatrist Carl Jung. But after much preliminary work, Hill decided instead to pay allegorical tribute to Jung’s theories about dreams and the collective unconscious. Albert Schweitzer had consumed years of Hill’s creative life; a narrative film shot without professional actors on a single location seemed more manageable yet still challenging. The Sand Castle (screening at the Walker on November 18) ran during the summer of 1961 in New York and San Francisco, receiving generally positive reviews as a victory for America’s fledgling independent cinema. The central character is a young boy who captivates a gathering throng at the beach by sculpting a Mont St. Michel of sand. Hill camped it up with the supporting characters, archetypes all—a cavorting frogman, a martini-swilling fatso, a gaggle of nuns playing baseball—but the film is firmly rooted in the boy’s creative diligence. In a brilliant example of filmic layering, Hill cast his own dexterous hand for the close-ups of a painter’s evolving portrayal of the scene, a clear reference to the home movies of Hill’s youth. A cleverly animated dream sequence imparts the lesson that the artist has nothing to fear from the destruction of what he has wrought, for it all is deeply rooted within the mind. Hill portrays the sand castle as the perfect metaphor for ephemerality: The film ends as the boy watches without regret as his fortress is breached by the rising tide.

     

    The sixties began in earnest for Jerome Hill sometime before he was quoted in the New York Times in 1964 saying he intended to work on a project about LSD: “The dreams, or euphoria, or call it what you will, that it induces are, I’m convinced, dramatic stuff.” While Open the Door and See All the People, released that same year, was therefore not that film, it shows signs of being under the influence. Hill attempts to weave a story of love and manners through the contrasting worlds of aged twin sisters, one rich, one of modest means. One would think, given this disparity, that Hill hoped to cast a few stones at his lofty origins. But the resulting farce is hamstrung by the lack of professional acting, and the action careens from one scene to the next, somehow culminating in a massive food fight between rival Chinese restaurants. Aside from a few memorably odd and funny scenes—notably the sisters’ different reactions as they consecutively drive past an apparent car crash—the film tends to leave the viewer looking for footnotes. The score by Alec Wilder—a gifted composer who wrote for Frank Sinatra, Stan Getz, and Marian McPartland, among many others—was his fourth collaboration with Hill, and is the film’s finest asset.

    A longtime resident of Manhattan’s Algonquin Hotel, Hill became a part of New York’s avant-garde with his post-Schweitzer works, and collaborated with Stan Brakhage and Jonas Mekas, among others, to found Anthology Film Archives. (Mekas was a film diarist of Warhol’s New York, and his Walden features cameos by Allen Ginsberg, John Lennon, and Yoko Ono, as well as a time-lapse document of Hill’s Cassis villa.) He released several short films during this period, but he also worked on his legacy. He created two foundations, now called the Jerome and Camargo foundations, which have aided the development of artists in all disciplines. (Film projects supported by the Jerome Foundation screen on November 16 and 17.) And very quietly, according to Mekas, Hill made strategic financial contributions to ensure the establishment of an American cinema independent of Hollywood.

    Of course, Jerome Hill being a tireless artist, part of that legacy is his final cinematic creation, the brilliant, autobiographical Film Portrait. (A newly restored print screens on November 18.) Employing home movies, animations, and dramatizations, Hill traced the development of his own aesthetic parallel to the nascent art form of cinema. Given the means of his childhood, his family did not simply rent showings of the latest releases; they acquired the reels. In Film Portrait he ponders the effect that this collection, including the wondrous films of George Méliès (A Trip to the Moon), had on his artistic development: “What an advantage to be able to learn films by heart, as if they were pieces of music.” Cinema, “the seventh art” in Hill’s nomenclature, triumphs by seizing the ephemeral, by capturing “the eternal moment.” Footage of his own engagement in the editing process walks a tightrope between art and documentary—artist, editor, photographer, ontologist—successfully enough that Film Portrait nearly succeeds in defining its own metaphysics. As Mekas put it simply, the notion of film autobiography was entirely unique at the time. With subtle grace and wit, Hill wonders: “Isn’t voyeurism at the core of the cinematographic sense?”

    The Walker’s series culminates on November 19 with “An Evening with Todd Haynes”—screenings of Far From Heaven (2002) and Poison (1991) and a discussion with the director, whose early work was supported by the Jerome Foundation.

  • The "It" Fruit

    During my childhood, the whirl of the eating season that begins this month was usually ushered in with that most agreeable social function, the potluck supper. Friends gathering, sharing food of their own making–it is a humble community feast where everyone gives and takes and huddles against the encroaching cold. In the car, I always held the bowl containing my family’s offering–I was the reliable and steady one, at least when it came to this task. Looking down at my mother’s green salad laced with mandarin oranges, almonds, and pomegranate seeds in my lap, the little red orbs seemed nearly to glow beneath the Saran Wrap. The pop and flavor of those juicy seeds were one of the things I associated with holiday functions, a treat of the season.

    On the potluck table, my mother’s salad always stood out among the Tater Tot hot dishes and green bean bakes. People were interested, but hesitant. I remember looking at those who pushed the oddly tangy seeds to the sides of their plate and assuming they were saving the best for last. When I witnessed the jewels tumbling into the garbage along with the remainder of some unfortunately selected goulash, I would grow almost despondent. How could you throw away a ruby?

    In recent decades, few people have understood the allure of this ancient food. The leathery, round, amber-colored fruits quietly bided their time in the shadows until, once again, they could rise to the forefront of food culture. And that time is now: The pomegranate is hot, hot, hot. Celebrities inspire the rest of us to sip pomegranate juice cocktails, and star chefs are using the fruit in daring and innovative ways: pomegranate salsa! pomegranate caramel sauce! Meanwhile, physicians can’t seem to stop talking about the amazing health benefits that accrue to a life that involves pomegranates. The buzz shows no sign of abating.

    It’s quite fitting to call the current fascination with pomegranates a rebirth. For centuries, this fruit has been a symbol of fertility and regeneration: Opening a pomegranate reveals a lush bounty of blood-red seeds nestled in soft, white flesh. Along with olives, grapes, figs, and dates, pomegranates were among the first domesticated crops; the tree on which they grow is believed to have originated in ancient Persia. As it spread throughout the world, the beautiful fruit rose to a place of importance in many cultures. Buddhists see it as one of the three sacred fruits, along with the citron and the peach. The Chinese gave sugared pomegranate seeds as wedding presents while decorating the bridal chamber with the fruit to encourage fertility.

    The pomegranate also figures prominently in the story of Persephone. When the smitten Hades, god of the underworld, kidnapped Persephone, her grieving mother Demeter, the goddess of nature, plunged the world into a famine. Zeus agreed to help free her, as long as she hadn’t eaten anything from the underworld. Alas, the depressed Persephone had allowed herself six pomegranate seeds to quench her thirst. Thus, she would be allowed to return to earth for only six months of each year, spending the other six in the underworld. Demeter celebrated each return with spring and summer and mourned her daughter’s eventual departure with fall and winter. It was this connection to death and rebirth that led Christians to later make the pomegranate a symbol of the Resurrection.

    Its current rebirth as a medicinal holy grail is being fueled, oddly enough, by coin collectors. Roll International Corporation (the company behind the Franklin Mint, Fiji water, and Teleflora) is driving the country’s desire for pomegranates through POM Wonderful, the breakout fruit and juice company that has quickly become a supermarket staple. The pomegranate’s dark garnet juice is thicker and bolder in flavor than that of the cranberry, and offers a dusky sweetness with a tart finish. While the purists will slug the nectar directly from its distinctive, bulbous bottle, the stylish set chooses to dilute it, say, with vodka in a Pomtini or rum in a Pomojito. Plugging the powerful antioxidant properties of pomegranate juice, POM Wonderful has literally bet the farm on the future of pomegranates, planting thousands of trees in California’s San Joaquin Valley over the past five years. By investing more of its millions in cardiovascular, cancer, and other types of medical research than it does in marketing, the company seems to be planning for the long haul.

    As trendy as the pomegranate is, it’s still a relative oddball to the home cook. Extracting the sparkling arils (the correct term for the seed, which is actually encased in a pouch of liquid) from the fleshy white pith can be a bit laborious. The best method is to cut off the crown, score the flesh into four sections and break the fruit apart over a bowl of water. Under water, you can gently roll the arils out from the cottony pith, which will float as the arils sink. Strain the water and claim your treasure. Eating the capsules whole will give you a burst of juice and small crunchy seed to chew. There are those who would spit the seed out, thus missing out on both fiber and fun, but they dare not dribble as the juice will stain.

    In season from October through January, the fall fruit’s robust flavors are a perfect match for the heartier foods of the season. The concentrated paste known as pomegranate molasses (available in some specialty stores) makes a tangy addition to sauces for roasted meats, especially duck, as in one variation on the traditional Persian stew known as khoresh. Adding the juice to a fig-and-olive tapenade makes an easy dip or poultry paste. Freezing the juice in an ice cream maker can make an earthy sorbet that is healthier than pumpkin pie. As a longtime fan of foods that can make the jump from antiquity to modern times with flare, I’m betting on the pomegranate to be more than trendy. I believe its alluring flavors will seduce the world once again and it will become revered–if not in a sacred sense, then by holding a secure place in the mainstream diet. At that point, maybe Tater Tot hot dish will seem exotic.

    Chicken Pomegranate Stew
    (a version of Persian khoresh)

    2 cups fresh pomegranate juice (or 1/2 cup pomegranate molasses)
    1 cup ground almonds
    1 cup ground walnuts
    3 teaspoons sugar
    1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
    1/4 teaspoon saffron (dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot water)
    Pinch of cinnamon
    1/4 teaspoon thyme
    1 small yellow onion
    3 tablespoons olive oil
    1/2 teaspoon turmeric
    Salt and pepper to taste
    4- to 5-pound fryer chicken, cut up, skin removed (or 4 – 6 boneless, skinless chicken breasts)

    Combine pomegranate juice, nuts, sugar, and spices (except turmeric). Set aside.

    In a medium pot, saute onions in oil until translucent. Add chicken, just searing, then turmeric, salt, and pepper. Add 1 cup of water and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes.

    Add pomegranate mix and simmer for an additional 30 minutes, adding water if necessary.

    Remove from heat and cover for 10 minutes before serving. Serve over couscous.

  • Fine Bright Red

    The Orient, said Metternich, begins at the Ring. It is hardly surprising an Austrian statesman of the early nineteenth century should think the Near East was as close as the suburbs of Vienna. The Ottoman Turks besieged the Austrian capital at least twice and the favor was returned each time an Austrian army, arrayed boldly by batteries, besieged Belgrade.

    Not that the symbiosis of the Ottoman and Hapsburg empires was all horror and confrontation. Even their hostilities had some cheerful consequences. After the second Turkish siege of Vienna in 1683 (the year before Bach was born), the retreating armies left behind sacks of black beans the size and shape of rabbit droppings, though a good deal scrunchier. A Viennese entrepreneur ground them into a powder and opened Europe’s first coffeehouse. Can you imagine Vienna without Kaffee und Kuchen? Would you not think J.S. Bach just a polyphiloprogenitive sobersides (like Organ Morgan of Llareggub–it’s organ, organ all the time with him) if there were not those bubbly bits in his Coffee Cantata?

    In any case, distinctions between west and east are always arbitrary–they vary as you go round the globe, whereas those between north and south are absolute. And this part of MittelEuropa, whether ruled by the Hapsburgs or the Turks, is a magnificent macedoine of ethnic eccentricity.

    Read all about it in the trilogy of travel books by Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor: A Time of Gifts, Between Woods and Water, and a third volume eagerly awaited by admirers. This is the record of a young man who set out, in 1933, to walk from Canterbury to Constantinople. He meets all sorts of men, from barons and rabbis to gypsies and the country gentry of the Pannonian Plain, who are said to enjoy the best partridge shooting in the world. The more spirit one has oneself, the more one finds other people original. The author is the same P. Leigh Fermor who kidnapped a German general on Crete during the Second World War and solemnly exchanged with him lines from the Odes of Horace as they passed by the snow-capped summit of Mount Ida on their way to a British submarine and safety. In Austria and points east, the Leigh Fermor liveliness matches that of the people whose land he was passing through.

    For the Romans, it was certainly the north-south distinction that mattered. The beautiful Blue Danube was their frontier facing north toward Central Europe and its ferocious Iron Age warrior aristocracies. Romans, naturally, drank wine; the folk beyond the Roman border liked beer or mead (though they would do as Romans whenever they could get wine). Emperors and armies campaigned along the Danube to keep the empire safe. Marcus Aurelius, after a hard day’s soldiering, would come back to the stronghold of Carnuntum, withdraw into himself, and stoically compose his Meditations. (The opening scenes of Gladiator are as good an evocation as I know of the hard business of campaigning in these dank northern forests.)

    Carnuntum today is the center of a thriving wine region, making both red and white wine from French varieties as well as from grapes that have grown in the long hot summers here since the Middle Ages. Production is protected by particularly strict purity laws, introduced twenty years ago, after it was discovered that some Austrian wines contained a chemical called diethylene glycol, added to increase body and sweetness (not to be confused with ethylene glycol, a substance that belongs in the radiator of your motorcar). I cannot imagine why anyone ever thought such adulteration desirable, given the excellence of what they make here naturally.

    Try, for instance, a 2003 red from Weingut Glatzer made from the Blaufrankisch grape, available locally for about twelve dollars. Blaufrankisch is the grape Germans call the Limberger; its name comes from the blue of the berries and frankisch, a term used since the Middle Ages to indicate superior quality. The wine is lively, clear and bright with an initial bite like mild black coffee and a fine fruity flavor, concealing hints of that pleasing wateriness that comes from really ripe blackberries. One can imagine it in the company of anything you might eat with a rather alcoholic Pinot Noir–even a Thanksgiving turkey. Though perhaps it might feel more at home with a Pannonian partridge. Prost.