Category: Blog Post

  • What I Saw at the Food & Wine Show

    The convention center was predictably packed for the Food and Wine show this weekend. I managed to skulk through the aisles and saw some good stuff:

    Top Bite: the Hope Creamery salted butter on a cracker. One simply beautiful, creamy bit of elegance.

    Thousand Hills cooked up some crazy-good grass-fed beef hotdogs and burgers. You can seriously taste a light, grassy flavor and the amount of omega-3’s are out of this world. This might be the easiest way to introduce grass-fed to your fam.

    A few smart ladies have formed the Droolin Moose which puts some kicky packaging with snackabe snacks. The malted milk boulders are huge and thickly triple dipped in really good, secret recipe chocolate. Their website won’t be up until March 3rd, but they do have a retail outlet.

    Barebecue, bbq, whatever you want to call it … was everwhere! Two standouts: Willingham’s dressed some shredded pork with a kicky sauce and Big Jake’s gave me a stingingly good meatball bathed in their bold sauce.

    Sipping chocolate is all the rage, but Legacy Chocolate’s Mayan Experience was the best … dark and sweetly earthy, with a slightly spicy burn on the back end.

    The restaurant booths were mobbed…Fhima’s new Zahtar had a throng waiting for their Moroccan stew … Common Roots had a creamy, wonderful cheese spread for bagel chips … always dig the beef jerky from Dixie’s … nice little tuna roll from Midori’s Floating WorldVescio’s has the most welcoming, homiest red sauce around.

  • GLBTs and Dildo Bingo

    About the last thing I expected to see when I walked into Pi
    Bar & Restaurant
    on a Monday night was a table and a half of middle-aged
    guys playing 500. That’s the old-timey
    card game we play with Carol’s folks down on the farm in Iowa.

    Pi , which opened last year in the Seward neighborhood, bills itself as “an awesome social club for
    queer women and their friends.” Their website promises “hot women, dancing, karaoke, trivia, lots of live entertainment,
    free pool during Happy Hour from 4-8 PM daily, awesome drink
    specials,
    and
    tasty food.,” but not a word about the 500 game. Maybe they are afraid of
    attracting too many Iowans.

    It turns out that it’s a regular game that started around 10
    years ago at the Gay 90s, but now is held every Monday night at Pi. Some
    evenings they get up to five tables, but at this time of year, a lot of the
    regulars take off for warmer climes. Over the years, they have raised thousands
    of dollars for Open Arms Minnesota.

    Monday night happens to be movie night and half-price bottle
    of wine night, and every evening from 4 to 8 p.m. it’s also happy hour, which
    means half-price appetizers, cheap beer, and free pool.

    The menu is mostly comfort food, ranging from chicken wings
    and burgers (mini or large) to chilled soba noodles with a sesame vinaigrette
    and a G.L.B.T. But a new menu will be coming out soon that will add a bigger
    selection of salads, sandwiches, and entrees.

    Being a cheapskate at heart, I ordered a huge basket of Pi
    (tater) tots for $3, and three very small burgers for the same price (both are
    regularly $6.) The burgers were a little dry, as mini-burgers tend to be, but
    the toppings of fresh sliced tomato, crisp romaine lettuce, catsup and aioli
    made up for that, especially considering the price. And the tater tots, were
    crisp, crunchy and irresistible.

    Our other entrée was the Gaysian wraps, a do-it-yourself kit
    of romaine lettuce leaves, carrots, cilantro, red onion and mock duck (or tofu or
    chicken) with a lively, spicy peanut sauce ($8). We washed all this down with a
    bottle of 2006 Gnarly Head Zinfandel, which is a good value at $21, and a steal
    at the Monday night price of $10.50.

    The featured movie last Monday was Gendernauts (1999) Monika
    Treut’s documentary about San Francisco’s transsexual community, featuring
    Annie Sprinkle, among others. On
    Monday, February 25, the movie will be Tipping the Velvet, a Victorian drama
    about a lesbian love affair. Other highlights of the Pi calendar include Trivia
    night every Tuesday, screening of the TV show L-Word every Wednesday, and on
    Queer Speed Dating on this coming Thursday. On Thursday, Feb. 28, they’ll
    feature Dildo Bingo, a benefit for the Trans Youth Support Network.

    P.S. – Just a reminder – if you want to join us for dinner and jazz at T’s Place this Wednesday, please drop me a line at iggers@rakemag.com, or just show up.

  • The Three Pointer: 4th Quarter Blues

    Copyright 2008 NBAE (Photo by David Sherman/NBAE via Getty Images)

    Game #54, Home Game #29: Dallas 99, Minnesota 83

    Season Record: 11-43

    1. Really Kidding

    As someone who was contemptuous of how much the Dallas Mavericks gave up to secure Jason Kidd, let me sheepishly report that the clearcut MVP of tonight’s game was…Jason Kidd. Believe it or not, his line of 17 assists (versus 3 turnovers), 4 steals, 12 points and 7 rebounds doesn’t do him justice. The dimes were doled with numbing regularity (the period totals were 6-4-4-3), but the most memorable were in the second half, especially a pair to center Erick Dampier early in the third, both touch passes as Kidd was falling out of bounds getting a rebound and receiving a feed near the hoop, respectively. All Dampier had to do on both occasions was lay the ball in (in fact he was 4-4 FG and every hoop was gift-wrapped by Kidd on a silver platter). This helped push the Mavs to their first double-digit lead, one they eventually lost as the two ballclubs matched quarter scores for three straight periods–a tie at the end of every one.

    With 5:10 to play in the 4th and Dallas up just 4, Kidd–who’d been penetrating and turning down makeable shots all night for the sake of ball movement–started sinking nails in the Wolves’ coffin. First was a driving layup that few, including Telfair, expected him to finish. Then a 20-foot jumper relatively early in the shot clock. Then a feed to a driving Jason Terry and, following a Nowitzki jumper and 1, a transition layup off a steal that yielded his own three point play. Just like that the lead was 14 with 2:41 to go, and after doling out a relatively pedestrian 17th assist to Josh Howard, #2 from Oaktown was done for the night. Ditto the Wolves.

    Those of us who fancy ourselves "students of the game" will always marvel at how Kidd’s court vision makes basketball intelligence a thing of beauty, and cherish him because of it. But here’s the rub: The Kidd who performed tonight was a very different player than the Kidd manning the point for New Jersey earlier this month. That Kidd was indifferent to the point of laziness on defense, made the competent passes but not the ones that get teammates excited about moving without the ball, and comported himself like a man with a heavy burden. Ironically, that New Jersey team also sported Vince Carter, a player whose admitted tanking in Toronto so offended us "students of the game" because the beauty of his play was so raw and physical, the near opposite of Kidd’s cerebral gambits. But the evidence of our eyes in the way Kidd rejuvenated his game for Dallas tonight–with nearly a third of his 17 assists of the eye-popping sort, 4 steals, and a skipping gait that shows the burden lifted somehow–is that Kidd was tanking in Jersey perhaps no less than Vinsanity withheld himself in Toronto. So, does being "smarter" give Kidd immunity on being slacker?

    2. Jefferson + 4 = -1

    Al Jefferson is getting better in a hurry. He denied any difference in commitment and attitude when I asked him after the Spurs game if he’d rededicated himself to anything going forward from the All Star break, but elements of his game that do not affect his personal point total–passing and defense–have both noticeably sharpened. Whenever Jefferson has blown a defensive assignment in the past three games, he’s either slapped his chest or, if the play is quickly in transition, held up his finger as a sign of taking responsibility. He is much more aggressive about going for the block or the foul when opposing use dribble penetration. And his passing has helped foster some of the best ball movement the Wolves have executed this season.

    Jefferson gives the Wolves something elemental–a big man constantly at threat to score in the low block. Yet an increasingly vexing problem as the season has progressed has been finding him a worthy partner, a relatively potent and consistent player who can score and dish on the perimeter to create space and synergize the offense. Unfortunately, the quartet of candidates being seriously auditioned thus far have varying degrees of skill in terms of commanding the floor and shooting the ball, ranging from the "pure" point Telfair to the point machine McCants, with Marko Jaric close to Telfair and Randy Foye closer to McCants in skill sets.

    At the beginning of the year, Foye was the obvious choice, and remains the most likely to grab the role, if only by default thus far. Further complicating matters is that Foye is a combo guard just as Jefferson is a combo big man–the Wolves would like to see them grow into the point guard and pivot positions, when in fact they seem most at home at off-guard and power forward. Whatever you want to call him, Foye took a small step backward tonight, nailing but one of six shots and delivering a lone assist against two turnovers in 25:04. "He’s going through some ups and downs right now and has got to get his confidence back, which will help everything," Wittman said after the game.

    But with just 28 games to go, the possibility grows that this is a "limbo" season for Foye, much as last year was for McCants; any judgements, pro or con, on what he can and can’t do are occluded by the injury. That’s almost worse than a definitive yes-or-no answer for a franchise that will have a very good pick and two high second-rounders in the draft.

    When the Wolves got the pou pou platter for KG during the off season, Wittman specifically said the squad was looking for two or perhaps three or four of the glut of young’uns populating the team to emerge as potential stars. As expected, mission accomplished for Jefferson. On the winnowing out end of things, Gerald Green has left the premises. But anyone who can say with any confidence that they know how Telfair, Foye, McCants, Brewer and Gomes are going to turn out is kidding himself–not a good sign

    I understand that this is hardly a startling insight for folks following the team, but tonight’s checkered play by the checkered players and the realization that the season is over in 8 weeks seems to throw it into sharper relief. Telfair continued his recent uptick in shooting accuracy but was frequently overmatched by Kidd’s length and rejuvenation. McCants poured in 17 points in 28:08 but continues to epitomize the "different drummer" cliche with a playing rhythm and inherent decision making that is silk for him but often off-kilter for his teammates. Jaric, a rare known commodity, shows why he could be an 8th or 9th man on a playoff contender by assembling one of his 7 point-6 rebound-5 assist games with a little disruptive D thrown in for good measure. And Craig Smith, who was absolutely blistered by Dirk Nowitzski in an obvious mismatch situation earlier in the season, defended Dirk as well as anybody on the team this time out and had me biting my tongue on the lack of Ratliff-Jefferson tandem play that’s occurred since Theo’s return.

    Wittman felt the game turned sour when his team held Dallas without points for seven straight possessions but couldn’t convert themselves. Not surprisingly, Jefferson wasn’t on the floor at the time. Wittman also correctly explained that the difference between the Wolves who shot 71% in the second quarter (to be 59% at the half) and the Wolves who shot 26% in the fourth quarter was aggression, not settling for jumpers, and moving the ball. Not incidentally, Jefferson was 4-4 FG in the second period, 0-3 FG in the final stanza, and mightily pissed over his lack of touches and the team’s inability to score without him. "We lost our composure with each other a little bit and got frustrated," Wittman conceded. No feuds, and nothing specific, just general angst.

    Telfair, Jaric, Foye, and McCants. Is there is a legit partner in that crew for Big
    Al? The longer there is no definite answer, the answer is no.

    3. Smallball Update

    Wittman explained that he doesn’t want to bring Ratliff back too quickly against smaller lineups, so he played sparingly alongside Jefferson at the end of the first and third quarters. Okay, but why bring back Chris Richard if he isn’t going to get any burn? And why does the coach enjoy smallball with this personnel so often? Despite shooting a higher percentage than Dallas (49.4% to 45%), the Wolves were outrebounded 43-35 and got to the line only a third as often as the Mavs, 9 to 27 FTA. Jefferson’s FT totals in the three Dallas games have steadily declined, from 14 to 8 to 4. Does Kevin McHale want only one smashmouth big man barging around?

  • X, Y, & Z

    BOOKS & AUTHORS
    The Legend of Faust

    Co-produced by SF Minnesota and Intermedia Arts, the Speculations Readings Series for science fiction and fantasy works presents local author and photographer Terry Faust tonight at Uptown’s DreamHaven Books. Faust, who’s been shooting at community newspapers, non-profit publications and weddings for over 25 years, lifts the curtain on his double life as a writer of screenplays, short stories, and novels. This Loft Literary Prize winner’s latest undertaking has been a series of humorous sci-fi books that poke fun at everything from U.S. foreign policy to life in the Midwest to… pancakes? He’ll be reading from the first installment, the self-published Z Is For Xenophobe, giving a run-down of the upcoming second (that’d be Y Is For Wiseguy) and opening up the floor for all your Q’s and A’s. Then, it’s on to Dulono’s Pizza down the street for some post-discussion brain food. —Haily Gostas

    6:30 p.m., DreamHaven Books, 912 West Lake St., Minneapolis; 612-823-6161.

    MUSIC
    Big John Bates & the Voodoo Dollz

    It’s hard not to get your hopes up over a band that lists spaghetti westerns, muscle cars, and Jägermeister as their primary influences. Thankfully, Vancouver exports Big John Bates & the Voodoo Dollz don’t disappoint. Picture The Cramps, the Stray Cats, The White Stripes, and the best ghosts of blues and big band all headbutting for the last of the bottle—as refereed by scantily clad circus women—and you’ll get some idea of their raucous sound and wild stage presence. Fresh from the success of their 2006 album Take Your Medicine, and from hosting the second annual Voodoo Ball in February, Big John’s band of outsiders (with names like sCare-oline and J.T. Massacre, no less) bring their burlesque-infused “Low-Brow Road Show” to St. Paul’s Station 4 rock club tonight. Expect all the dirty fun you can shake a five-spot at. —Haily Gostas

    9 p.m., Station 4, 201 E. 4th St., St. Paul; 651-298-0173; $5.

    THEATER LECTURE
    Boys Will Be Boys

    Night after
    night, actor Mark Rylance has been giving an insightful performance over at the Guthrie, in the title role of
    Peer Gynt. We’re mighty
    curious to know more about his
    nuanced approach to the character, as he seems to nailing three things central to male
    adolescence: physical recklessness, emotional isolation, and the
    desperation to be accepted as a man. We wouldn’t
    mind hearing, from the horse’s mouth,
    why Minnesota
    poet Robert Bly might’ve started this business of translating Ibsen’s play "just
    for the fun of it" (before the Guthrie even gave him a commission), as he’s been
    heard to say. In short, Peer Gynt is a fascinating tale that,
    written in 1867, foreshadowed our contemporary culture’s so-called masculinity
    crisis
    . Join Rylance and Bly tonight as they discuss the play’s appeal as well as its
    themes. An urgent note to the wise: Peer Gynt closes this
    weekend. Don’t miss the best Guthrie
    production we’ve seen in a long, long while. —Christy
    DeSmith

    7:30 p.m., Guthrie Theater, 818 S 2nd St., Minneapolis; 612-377-2224; $15.

     

  • Tuna Tuna

    Ahi tuna: many people know tuna as ahi tuna. However, there isn’t a species named ahi. Ahi means ”tuna” in the Hawaiian language, so if you ask for Ahi tuna, all you are asking for is "tuna" tuna! Sometimes I like to just mess with people when they ask if I have ahi tuna: I ask what kind of tuna? "Ahi," they reply. "Yellow fin, big eye, or blue fin?" I ask. "No, Ahi!"

    Most sushi bars carry three kinds of tuna; yellowfin, albacore, and big eye. The better sushi bars will also carry a fourth named blue fin. So next time you are dining out and you see ahi tuna on the menu, and you are feeling a little snobbish, ask what kind of ahi it is and see if they know… a good chef should know there is no such thing is Ahi tuna.

  • Mystic Lake Casino: Gorge and Gamble, But Do It Dry

    It struck me as inconsistent when I discovered this:

    You can gamble away everything you have at Mystic Lake Casino. Your savings, your kids’ college funds, the church collection you were supposed to deposit.

    You can eat 10,000 calories in a single sitting at the Mystic Lake buffet for the nominal price of $9.95.

    But you cannot drink wine, beer, or any other kind of alcohol on the premises.

    Part of me admires and stands behind this policy: Alcohol has devastated the American Indian population — those, putatively, who own and run Mystic Lake — from the day it was introduced. They are a race of people whose bodies do not produce alcohol dehydrogenase, the enzyme that breaks down alcohol so it can be metabolized by the liver. Lack of this substance, paradoxically, not only causes an extreme physical allergy to alcohol, it seems to trigger an unstoppable craving as well. Though I might argue that rich food and fiscal mismanagement have done a great deal of damage to the Indian community as well.

    Why, you may be wondering, am I so interested in the policies at Mystic Lake? Well, I’m so glad you asked. It’s a complicated story but if you’ll indulge me for a few moments, I hope you’ll find it’s worth your time.

    First, I should cop to the fact that I’m 100 percent against state-sanctioned gambling no matter what the proceeds are used to fund. I believe deeply that the Minnesota state lottery is nothing but a tax on the poor who will inevitably donate their money when a prize is at stake. Here’s why.

    It isn’t that they’re careless or stupid or unaware of the odds. It’s that the amount at stake actually has far more value to someone who is making minimum wage than it does to, say, me. There’s a slim chance that I will earn a million dollars: I could sell a book that’s made into a movie that busts all the box office records and results in a an enormous payout. I know; it’s unlikely, but it could happen. For someone who is working two jobs, each part-time and without health insurance, at $7.50 an hour, paying for childcare, rent, and upkeep on a perpetually broken-down car, there is no chance. Zero. If they want to make it out of this endless cycle of poverty, buying a lottery ticket is the only way to go.

    About Indian gaming, I’m fiercely ambivalent. It provides a viable form of entertainment for people who willingly drive miles and miles to seek it out. And casinos certainly have raised the standard of living for people once confined to impoverished reservations. Still, honestly, I find the whole business loathsome and dangerous and downright sad.

    So it perplexes me that certain older people I know think Mystic Lake is a great place to pass their golden years, playing the slots and eating heaps of seafood and whipped cream cake. Their business, I’ve always told myself. What do I care if they spend their retirement income in such a ridiculous way?

    And I didn’t, in fact, until they involved my son.

    He turned 20 last week. He is no longer a child. But he is MY child, and he’s been through hell in the past two years. That he has autism is the least of his problems (in fact, quiet, shyness, and mathematical humor are among his most charming attributes). But beginning about a year and a half ago, he was put on atypical anti-psychotics by not one but three different psychiatrists. These drugs are the new panacea of modern medicine — also, coincidentally, the source of enormous kickbacks to doctors from the companies that make them. Ergo, they’re being dispensed like aspirin to a legion of non-psychotic individuals, including those with eating disorders, behavior issues, and benign neurological differences like my son’s.

    Here’s the problem. Atypical anti-psychotics block the brain’s dopamine receptors. Dopamine regulates a number of things, including movement, mood, sleep, cognition, and pleasure. It is the last that seems to be most problematic when you start messing with dopamine (or when it is naturally depleted, as in Parkinson’s Disease); without this hormone, the brain does not register the "reward" inherent in hedonistic activities such as eating, gambling, drinking, and having sex. So people who are dopamine-deficient engage in things that should make them experience pleasure. . . .yet they don’t. Which causes them to repeat those activities over and over — eating, drinking, gambling, fucking — in an attempt to achieve their rightful high.

    The result: My formerly sweet and guileless son came off a medication he never should have been prescribed in the first place shaky, moody, mean, sleep-disordered, slow to process, and a raging addict. To what? You name it. Pizza, Coca-Cola, cooking wine, card playing, shopping, and girls. In January, after weeks of trying to deal with this snarl of allopathic ills, my husband and I finally — reluctantly — consigned him to a treatment center where he could get the help we were unable to provide.

    I raged, sulked, and grieved. For weeks, I couldn’t eat, read, write, or sleep. Then, I noticed that though I was a mess, my son was actually getting better. We would visit and find him polite, clean, and neatly dressed. He’d be attending a group session, working a crossword puzzle, or sitting with a few other residents watching As Good As It Gets. He had begun to make good food choices and lose weight; he was talking about getting out and going back to school. The treatment actually seemed to be working. Until his birthday, that is.

    I got the call on Wednesday of last week. His grandparents, my former in-laws, had arrived the day before and signed my son out. Then they’d taken him to Mystic Lake, where they paid his way into the buffet then bellied him up to the tables and helped him mound food onto his plate. After three of four trips back, plus seven or eight sodas, they trooped out to the slot machines where my 76-year-old former father-in-law taught my son how to use the poker slots, gave him a pile of cash, and told him to go ahead and gamble until it was gone.

    Later, when they dropped him off at the treatment center, Grandma and Grandpa tucked a 7-pound cheesecake in with his birthday gifts, just for good measure.

    By the time I saw my son next, on Wednesday afternoon, he was sick, dumb, and dazed. Haltingly, he told the whole story to the counselors who reported to me that they were thinking of discharging him. Clearly we were not serious about seeking treatment, they said, if his relatives were going to take him on casino junkets. What’s more, it was illegal for a 20-year-old to gamble. Did I not understand that?

    "You’re right," I said. "I’m so sorry. Please don’t kick him out. I promise, it will never happen again." Though short of killing an elderly couple — which, don’t get me wrong, I would be very happy to do if I didn’t have two other kids to raise — I cannot think of a way to insure this is true.

    So about the alcohol. The fact is, I began to wonder: If his grandparents bought him a 14-course meal and an hour with the slots, did they perhaps treat him to a vodka gimlet, as well? That’s when I pulled up the Mystic Lake site and discovered there is no alcohol allowed on the premises. Goddamn lucky for us.

    I’ve already left a note telling staff at the treatment center never again to release my son to a quaint little gray-haired couple from Iowa. Now, I just have to make sure they didn’t stop by Schiek’s to treat h
    im to a lap dance on the way back from the casino, and I think — maybe, finally — I’ll have all the bases covered and be able to rest.

  • Sushi Bar Etiquette

    Good thing we are not in old school Japan and that most elder Japanese/Japanese-trained chefs in the U.S. have adopted our ways.

    I could care less how you eat your sushi at the bar or at a table, but with some chefs it could get you kicked out!

    Basic sushi bar etiquette:

    Oshibori (hot towel) sushi is finger food, except sashimi; and the hot towel provided is to clean your hands before you eat. Please don’t blow your nose or take a sponge bath with that nice, hot wash cloth.

    Gari (pickled ginger) is provided to cleanse your palette in between different fishes, rolls, or sashimi, so the flavor does not carry over — and to cleanse your mouth when you are finished. Gari is not a salad.

    Fingers: Yes you all have five, so use them. Since sushi is finger food, use your fingers to eat the nigiri or rolls. Some people complain when the rolls are not packed tight enough and the rice falls apart — same goes for nigiri. Good sushi is supposed to melt in your mouth, and a good chef will not pack the rice into a hard ball. Nothing wrong with using chop sticks, but unless you can use them proficiently, the sushi will most likely fall apart.

    Soy sauce: It’s not to be used like ketchup with fries! If you do need soy sauce, dip the nigiri or maki in lightly. If it’s nigiri, turn it around and dip it in fish side down so that you don’t soak all of the soy with the rice. Same goes for rolls: dip the corner of the roll; don’t give it a bath. Light dipping will allow you to enjoy the wonderful flavors of each fish or roll, and one of the biggest reasons sushi falls apart is from the rice getting logged with soy sauce.

    Do not give dirty/empty plates back to the sushi chef. They are dirty; we work with our hands. Put them to the side for your server to clear.

    One bite: Sushi is meant to be eaten in one bite. Please do not cut the nigiri, sashimi, or rolls. By doing so you will lose the intended flavor combination. Yeah, go ahead and stuff your mouth. It’s not rude. Just like slurping noodles, it’s the Asian culture, and shows the chef you are are enjoying the food.

    Watch this funny video if you have not seen it before.

    Oh, and buy your chef a drink. He/she will appreciate it. And if you get them a bit drunk your slices will get bigger!! We don’t want to cut off our fingers as we start to see blurrs!!

     

  • Lenny Russo on Why the Farm Bill Is All F*cked Up

    In an article about Charles Billington, a University of Minnesota endocrinologist who also happens to be one of the nation’s leading obesity researchers, I mention that when Billington himself dines out, he goes mostly to Heartland, the little storefront bistro on St. Clair Avenue in St. Paul.

    Why? Because Heartland’s gourmet Midwestern fare embodies just about every healthful practice he can name: the portions are appropriate; the food is wholesome, minimally processed, and varied; the slow-cooking methods tend to seal in nutrients (or leave them alone); and low-density foods such as vegetables often are the "star" of the meal.

    After talking to the doctor, I went to visit Lenny Russo, owner and head chef at Heartland, to tell him what Billington had told me. There was a pause. Then an evil grin.

    "Well, no shit," Russo says.

    For five years, including an 11-month stint at Cue, Russo’s been beating the drum for locally raised and grown food, refusing to serve anything (with the exceptions of coffee, chocolate, and some spices) from outside a 250-mile radius of the Twin Cities. You’ll get elk, rabbit, bullfrog legs, root vegetables, trout, berries, mushrooms, and wild rice at Heartland. You will never eat salmon, lobster, pineapple, or macadamia nuts there. This way, Russo provides patrons with food that’s fresher and closer to the source while supporting the region’s growers and small family farms.

    What’s more, everything he uses is produced according to organic or equivalent standards. In other words, Russo’s not so concerned about state certification; but he does care how the farmers treat their food. For instance, he won’t buy barn-fed beef.

    "They take a cow and pull it out of the pasture where it’s been grazing on grass so its flesh has a perfect balance of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids," Russo explains. "Then they put it into a barn and feed it nothing but #2 corn and all the omega-3’s go away and what’s left is just a shitload of omega-6. Eating that kind of crap is what makes people unhealthy and fat."

    Russo admits, however, that only a small segment of the population can afford to eat at his restaurant, where dinner tabs run about $60 per. That’s why he’s involved in several initiatives devoted to making the food supply better, purer, and healthier for everyone.

    For the past year, Russo has been trying to establish a local food clearinghouse, where producers could bring their wares for sale to restaurants, grocery stores, and even private citizens. He supports family farmers and speaks and writes on the topic, preaching to people about the necessity of crop rotation and food-based growing. He was a vocal opponent of ethanol and commodity crops (particularly corn) long before the position was in vogue. And Russo is especially outspoken when it comes to policies that promote packaged, preservative-laden junk over whole foods.

    "People on the lower end of the economic ladder who don’t have transportation have certain limitations as to what they can buy," he says. "They’re going to the convenience store on the corner and filling up their shopping carts with piles of cheap calories produced with high-fructose corn syrup and a bunch of ingredients you’d have to be a food chemist to understand."

    It is, Russo believes, the fault of the government, and the Farm Bill in particular, that the economics of food has become so twisted and people are starving for nourishment inside bodies bloated with Twinkies, Doritos, and Coke.

    "If the federal government cared about people or the land, they wouldn’t force us into all this commercialized agriculture so our food gets all fucked up." Russo — the grandson of a New Jersey boxer who speaks like Winston Churchill with a little Chris Rock thrown in — leans his beefy forearms on the table and glares.

    "The farm bill is about who’s going to get a hand-out and that’s wrong. Supply side economics should not be about giving more money to the rich motherfuckers who already have enough. It should be about giving money to people on the lower end of the economic sector because they’re not going to invest it overseas, they’re going to spend it on clothes and food and pump it right back into the economy where it belongs."

     

  • Harvest Moon

    First of all, I swore that I would never move back home. I was city-bound and the suburbs could eat my dust, for all I cared. And I had a cute little house in Tangletown and lived a happy life with a 5-10 minute trip to an endless amount of food choices.

    Funny how life gets in the way of life.

    For many reasons that don’t need laundering in public, I ended up moving my family out to the area in which I grew up, within a mile and a half of my mother’s house. My first concern was that the frogs were louder than the busses of Nicollet. My second concern was the lack of good fried rice within a 20 minute drive. How on earth would I connect with this world of hockey-moms, mini-vans and Lunchables?

    As I am now accustomed to the sounds and workings of my suburban existence, I see benefits that I hadn’t seen before. Like the real proximity to fresh, local food. Way out here where 394 becomes a two-lane road, people have the land to grow stuff. Good stuff. If I head a little west I run into the Peterson’s pumpkin patch and road stand where they’ll chat you up about what you’re going to make with their produce, offer up recipe ideas and remember to ask you how it turned out the next time they see you.

    I have a friend who moved out here and was puzzled by the vegetable stand on the corner of her road. It seemed to be fully-stocked, but there was never anyone manning it. After passing it by for over a month, she finally stopped to see if someone would show up. Upon further examination of the stand, she realized that it worked on the honor system: take some veg, leave your money in the box. I’m thinking that’s not going to happen in the city.

    So with all these producers and land lovers, you’d think we have an awesome market. Well, we don’t … yet. What we do have is a focused and driven bunch of people who are working toward the creation of the Harvest Moon co-op. Their goal is to build an outlet for all the growers and producers in our area and points westward while creating a hub for the local community.

    They’ve found a man in Medina who is growing organic apples on his property and selling them to Whole Foods. Apparently, his apples are shipped to the Whole Foods HQ in Texas before they can come back to the Minnesota stores. Harvest Moon is hoping to give his apples a little closer home. Smartly, they’re working with the Crow River chapter of the Sustainable Farmers Association, the ones who put on the kick-ass Minnesota Garlic Festival. Many of these farms are the ones supplying the downtown chefs.

    It sounds like a dream to me and of course I’ve already signed up. They’re still in the planning phases and are trying to build membership, which can be hard without a sexy building to prove their intentions. But if you’re interested, there’s a pot-luck at a local church on March 30th, because that’s the way we roll. Leave your urban desires behind and bring a dish to pass, maybe you’ll find a surprising and soul-satisfying connection.

  • A Plot? Who? Me?

    The Signal, which opens today in theaters, is an ambitious survival horror film. Written and directed by newcomers David Bruckner, Dan Bush, and Jacob Gentry, and starring a no-name cast, The Signal does a lot of things well, but loses itself in its pointless brutality and aimless plot.

    It’s a genre film, so pick your favorite survival horror flick, vary the details a bit and you’ll get a good idea what this one’s about. A handful of protagonists are forced to survive against a sea of people brainwashed into killing each other by "the signal," a mysterious transmission sent through the TV, cell phones, and radios. Once infected, their perceptions are turned against each other and the necessary fake blood splatters at the camera.

    The film isn’t entirely run-of-the-mill. Each of the film’s three chapters (or "transmissions") is directed by a different member of the writing trio. The marketing for the film is trying to play this up as an asset. It is not. The first part of the movie sets the stage for some serious survival horror. However, what could have been a decent movie is dropped in the second act to make way for a Shaun of the Dead-style black comedy. Before you can catch your breath, the third act (now survival horror again) wraps up the movie as if M. Night Shyamalan had burst into the theater and shouted "IT’S A TWIST!" at the top of his lungs for the remaining 20 minutes, at which point you’re so confused about what you’ve just witnessed that you just don’t give a shit.

    That’s not to say that The Signal is without merit. Of the film’s three leads, two of them are pretty decent, and certainly better than other examples of the genre (*cough* Saw *cough*). I would even credit the film for its good direction, but it’s ultimately style over substance. The film’s slick editing and visual style aren’t enough to save it from a muddy, inconsistent plot.

    On top of it all, the film is frustratingly bloody and violent. Before you go and call me a squeamish whiner let me compare it to a movie with a similar level of gore: Hostel. Sure Hostel kinda blew, but at least the splattering blood and guts support the plot. In contrast, The Signal opts for savage disemboweling in lieu of a plot. In fact, it really feels like bad porn. It rips off all its clothes and bangs you for a solid hour while the filmmakers swoop in to see what’s going on under the covers. It’s not sexy. Or even interesting. It’s just boring.