What a revelation a good order of fish and chips can be. Normally, we are stuck with fish sticks or cardboard nuggets processed from some kind of fish slurry. Proper fish and chips—the kind Mac’s serves—are hot and crispy, never soggy or overtly greasy. On the fish side of the plate, Mac’s batter is touched with a sweetness that nicely complements its base malty flavor. The meaty halibut is firm and flaky. The chips (which, okay, are fries) are plump with a crunchy outer crust. With a good sousing of vinegar, they measure up quite nicely. Don’t be surprised if you have to wait for a table; this joint is small and habit forming. 1330 W. Larpenteur Ave., St. Paul; 651-489-5299
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