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  • The Fourth

    At first, Indigo McCarthy hadn’t realized that an agent from the Department of Agriculture was shadowing him. But he soon learned. The pursuit started at U.S. Postal Service Station No. 4245. The Ag agent was a mole in USPS who’d requested a transfer to Vermontville, the tiny hamlet bordering the resort lake. A lot of middle managers from the city spent summer weekends there with their families. It was the weekend of the Fourth. At the post office, the Ag agent found that he liked sifting through other people’s mail, particularly when the mail had the potential—the energy of activation—to contain harmful animal or vegetable products. Such secret parcels threatened the nation.

    In Indigo’s case, it was a manila envelope with no return address and a Berkeley postmark (itself suspicious), which contained three small packages of Kool-Aid powder: Lemon Punch, Fruit Cocktail, and Wacky Blueberry. Oh, Indigo McCarthy must have been up to something, the agent knew.

    In the tiny post office break room, he blew his nose on a standard-issue department handkerchief, a wheat stalk embroidered on each corner. He double-checked the pump load ammo in his wrist gun, and resealed the envelope with a glue stick he’d picked up from the Ben Franklin store in town. None the wiser. He grimaced. The field office in Milwaukee had the wherewithal to give him a wrist gun, but a ninety-cent glue stick was apparently out of its league.

    A few men and women in trim blue uniforms were coming into the break room from the Secret Break Room that even the infiltrating Ag agent dared not venture into. The aggie hurried. Any one of them could be a plant, he reasoned, from any agency. It was best to be too careful. Indigo knew none of this fifteen minutes later, as he yanked the envelope and two postcards from his PO box and walked away. How could he have? Professional spies were on the scene.

    As he drove his cherry-red SUV from the post office to the lake, past a series of dales and abandoned hobby farms, an Immigration and Naturalization Service official in an SUV followed him. Star-spangled rectangles of cloth rippled on every street corner. The air exploded with toy explosives. The INS agent’s SUV was white and didn’t blend in well. She’d been working this case for a few days, and it was finally coming to fruition. Suspicious packages always portended something suspicious. The INS agent had Indigo’s credit report on the front seat, as well as a Xerox of his recent international itineraries to Canada and Mexico. For “business.” The agent chortled. Indigo had two girls. His wife was a pharmacist. The wife waved at him as he pulled up to their time-share lake cottage. Clean white stucco, worn in, peonies obscuring the cobblestone path through the front yard. But in a pleasant way.

    The INS agent sped on, but not before a metal strip adhering to her passenger-side doorknob took several photos of Indigo’s hand, which held the postcards and envelope. The photos were uploaded to a satellite and then down to a processing station in the basement of a Miami funeral home.

    Unbeknownst to the INS agent, the ghostly afterimages of the photos were intercepted by a Department of Transportation agent hiding in some shrubs across the street, holding something akin to a laser pointer. She uploaded the images and started running away from the SUV, toward the nearest airport, where there was a Cessna waiting to take her back to Duluth.

    “Who are those from, honey?” Marsha, the wife, said. A quick, hot peck on the cheek. It was hot outside. Their marriage was on the rocks. (One didn’t need to be a spy with advanced training to see that!) The two girls, Esther, five, and Miranda, seven, were in the lake, splashing, adorned with life preservers shaped like smiling killer whales. Below the submerged black fins and the legs kicking out, an Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms bureau agent waited with scuba gear and sonar implants, listening. Like Virginia Woolf, he had stones in his pockets when he jumped into the water. He’d learned that through a debriefing of “great American subversives,” and won a certificate for the idea, which hung over his desk back at the Cedar Rapids headquarters. He was quite proud of both the certificate and the desk. The girls giggled. A trout was brushing against their toes.

    “I don’t know,” Indigo said. “I haven’t really looked at them. It’s probably just junk.” It’s all junk, he thought. “I need a beer.”
    “Get it yourself.” Freeze, retreat. Snap, Indigo opened the screen door and got a beer, postal cargo still in hand, snap, a wide-angle lens captured Marsha’s backside as she walked down the cobbled sandstone path to the lake. The sandstone was imported from France. Super suspicious, code red. Snap again, the cobblestones and her ankles, for good measure. Not everyone was honorable.

    Within the lake’s circumference (it was shaped like a pill bug, twitching, ready to curl up), other children played, but in a desultory fashion, as if they knew something unpatriotic were going on in the McCarthy household. Speedboats sped by in front of their cabin a little more slowly. In a few hours they would be angrily shaking their fists, assembling in the town hall, shouting, “Burn down the stucco! Burn down the stucco!” (If the Forest Service agent hiding in a stand of trees had his way.) He couldn’t get close to the house without blowing his cover, which was that of a middle-aged man who had just lost his consultancy job, masturbating amongst the trees, and that was all that could be said about him, except for the pictures he took, three-fourths of which were of Marsha’s behind. Forestry espionage was hard, especially since it was department policy to deforest, which left very few trees for hiding places.

    Indigo sank into the inviting folds of the sofa with his beer. Before he sipped, he set the beer down on the coaster. The coaster released a pheromone undetectable by the human nose. Indigo moved toward the blinds to draw them—a cold chill brushed against his neck, the kind of primitive but still efficient “first strike” response that Indigo’s ancestors had used when hunting for giant elk in the Pictish highlands. Most of the time they didn’t succeed. His wife went into the bathroom to make a call and masturbate. The vibrator was hidden in a carved-out copy of The Prince. Not that little fellow who planet-hopped and got his ass handed to him by a snake; rather, the no-holds-barred paragon from Florence, back when Europe mattered. The pheromone drifted out of the living room and underneath the front door, to a badger waiting in the brush five hundred feet away. Upon detecting the scent, the badger rose to its hind legs to get the circulation going and scurried around the perimeter of the lake through the brushy, as yet undeveloped lot adjoining the McCarthys’. The badger was much more nimble than his species profile; a strict Department of the Interior training regimen ensured this. He also had a small but deadly explosive charge wired to his cerebral cortex, with plasticine woven through his underbelly, but his superiors hoped it wouldn’t come to that. The secret logo of the Department of the Interior was the badger. Screw the docile buffalo, content to chew prairie grasses on the official stationery and apparel of the department. (What happened to the buffalo? Buffalo Bill happened to the buffalo, that was what.)

    “C’mon, little buddy,” the badger handler of the DOI said, waiting in a pickup truck on a road on the other side of the lake, listening on headphones to the badger’s labored breathing. But then the breathing stopped.

    “Honey, do you smell something funny?” Indigo said, calling out to his wife. She didn’t answer. The packages of Kool-Aid still rested unopened next to Indigo’s elbow. Trembling in the air conditioning. The daughters in the lake were listening too, in anticipation. Children had intuitions about perfect summer days, that they could disappear at the drop of a hat. It was a survival tactic.

    There was a soft, but still distinct, explosion a couple of lots over. A man screamed: “I’m on fire, I’m on fire.” Forgetting his cover. But what else could be expected from a Health and Human Services agent who had no experience with badgers in the field? Explosives-laden badgers, at that? The HHS agent—who’d convinced himself through several seminars that his work was to protect the McCarthy children, always think of the children—saw the wiring running underneath the badger’s belly and then pounced from his hiding place in the marshy scrub. He had attempted to take the badger by the tail and club it to death against a rock. But the nearest rock was barely within sight along the lake path, a good two-minute walk away, which required hauling the badger by hand. The animal wasn’t human and therefore didn’t require health or services. For all he knew, the badger could be a double agent for those nasty Belgians. The badger, then, sacrificing everything for the good of the department, exploded.

    Screaming ensued. Indigo, startled, sat up. The Interior agent began crying and sped away, the mission lost. The ATF agent at the bottom of the lake chucked all of his stones at once and began to surface. Indigo called out to his wife again, who again didn’t answer. The screaming stopped. All was still, pleasantly so. Fishers cast their rods. Sunbathers, pale as groupers, turned over on their floating rafts in syncopation.

    Indigo couldn’t decide what to do next. He needed backup, 911. He needed a fire marshal in his corner. He picked up the phone, but the line was dead. Marsha had his cell phone.

    “Marsha?” he called. “Kids?” He went to the bathroom door and tapped on it. No answer. He rattled the handle in that special push-pull that only he knew. Marsha had locked herself in before.

    The bathroom was empty. The window was open, letting in a breeze that felt much too cold, too much in the throes of autumn. Too much autumn. The lake would close and board up in autumn, leaving the residents of Vermontville to waddle between snowbanks en route from car to church or bar. Which was what they probably wanted. They wanted to be left alone by people like Indigo, sophisticated to the point of having agents after him. He looked out the window and saw no one in the yard or the black, quiet lake. He started yelling “Marsha, Marsha,” veering back to the living room. Sitting in the chair he had recently departed from was a man in a black suit. He was wiry thin, and his pianist’s hands were tearing into the manila envelope. Beer frost was on his lips. He had drunk from Indigo’s beer, an outrage somehow more vile than his very presence. Indigo stood there, too afraid not to speak, but lacking words to adequately express what was now in front of him.

    The agent ignored Indigo and tipped the open package down into his lap. The three Kool-Aid packages slid out like origami. The agent carefully placed the manila envelope onto the coffee table and made a stack of the Kool-Aids. Indigo could see, with the motion of hands, the shine of pearlescent gloves.
    “Who are you?” Indigo said.

    “The members of your family are being held as enemy combatants.” The agent didn’t look up. “I imagine you want to know about your family. Families are important.”

    “Who are you?” Indigo asked again. And then, “‘Enemy combatants’?”

    “Stop asking so many questions. It’s clear you hate your family. Since you didn’t ask about them. So let me ask the questions, buster.” The agent stood up. “What do you know about these Kool-Aid packages?” He shook the lurid colors.

    “I don’t know—I don’t know who sent this—”

    “Let me give you a hint. Bad people. People are either good or bad.”

    “I want a lawyer.”

    The agent snorted. “Listen, I told you. Your family consists of enemy combatants. They are thus exempt from the Geneva conventions as well as U.S. jurisprudence. Let us not speak of them again.”

    “My daughters—they’re just kids.” Indigo considered rushing the man, or rushing away. He couldn’t decide. It seemed like an important decision. He wanted it decided for him.

    “Children enjoy Kool-Aid. This is natural.” This statement was simple enough that Indigo suspected a trap. “But as I advised you before—”
    Indigo cocked his head. “What’s that noise?” There was a noise. He wasn’t paranoid, not really. It was a sound like a video game, pixels chiming and exploding, a player raking in a high score.

    The agent put a hand to his ear. For the first time, panic filled his eyes. He straightened his spine. “Fuck,” he said to himself. “It’s too early.” Then he realized that Indigo, a noncommissioned citizen, was his audience. “There’s a Blackbird coming,” he said. “A drone has been launched. Your cottage—” The firework sounds increased. Yes, it was the Fourth of July, a holiday designed to remember the Declaration of Independence that several wealthy planters and shippers had made against a king. But the screeching sound was different, from the sky, plowing down like the future instead of the past. The future always came from the sky.

    The agent got up and ran, ignoring Indigo. The Kool-Aid packets were still on the coffee table. Indigo could hear the agent screaming on the lawn, running toward the lake. For cover. The boom was fast and deafening. Seconds passed. Indigo scooped up the packets and dived under the coffee table. He didn’t quite fit there, but then again, the imitation plywood would afford little solace from the detonation of a smart bomb, anyway. So Indigo was not worried. I have a stomachache, he thought, as the sleek chrome object hit the surface of the earth. Bomb-shelter position as he learned in Catholic school, hands over head, orange-juice light—

    Not exactly the surface of the earth.

    The surface of the lake turned white and horizoned. The window steamed and then shattered, letting in the hothouse air from the outside. Indigo slid out from under the coffee table, clutching the Kool-Aid to him. His whole body shook as he stumbled out of his house, toward the hot lake. The grass on the water’s perimeter was scorched. No one boated or cavorted. The sky, it seemed to Indigo, as he began running toward his car, ought to have been splotched with gray, ready to rain. But the weather never tracked anyone’s interior state—the sky was jewelry blue.

    Something white and light landed on his shoulder, and he flinched. Something landed in his hair. He fished it off. A leaflet. Leaflets falling everywhere: “Your locale has been targeted for subversive activity. Please vacate the premises and contact proper authorities.” The too-late leaflets began to snow around him in earnest. He couldn’t see the source; there wasn’t a plane in the sky.

    He opened the door of his SUV and entered the cool vinyl cave. His wife was lying on the backseat. His children were lying on the backseat behind the backseat, curled into each other. They all slept. He didn’t want to disturb the moment so he started the drive into town. Opening the window, he tossed the Kool-Aid packets out, one by one. He touched the button; the window sealed shut like a guillotine.

    The silence in the car had no precedents, no antecedents. The silence was a vehicle with four bodies in it. Indigo didn’t want to disturb anything. Close to town, the abandoned farmhouses encroached on the newly built super-Wal-Mart. Or was it the other way around. At any rate, the farmhouses loomed with doorless thresholds, sagging floorboards, gutted ovens. He didn’t want those abandoned places. He didn’t want to be abandoned. At this point in the game, watching what he said appeared the best way to achieve that goal. Marsha snored, beginning to wake. He would not tell her about the agent. He would not ask about the package or let on that he knew about her affairs. Probably she had affairs. All he wanted was to drive into town, and then his family would wake, and once in town there would be a parade to attend—patriotic clowns on stilts, the VFW marching with their scarecrow uniforms, cheerleaders throwing sparkled batons high in the air. The batons would fall into hands. And later, when the sky was dark, fireworks would burst upon the public square. Marsha opened her eyes. She sat up and yawned, stretching her arms. It was unclear whether she had a care in the world.

    “Indigo,” she said, still half-asleep, peering down at their children. He clenched the wheel until his knuckles whitened. “Indigo, the kids don’t have their seat belts on. But they’re lying down. Should I wake them? Are they safe?”

    NOTE: “The Fourth” is from Alan DeNiro’s debut collection of short fiction, Skinny Dipping in the Lake of the Dead, recently issued by Small Beer Press.

  • David Rakoff

    Why wasn’t David Rakoff delighted about the prospect of being exiled to a desert island, even a fantasy one? After all, the Canadian-born writer and actor said “OK” when Outside magazine asked him to take “an intense, weeklong wilderness course, where I was trained in primitive skills such as animal tracking, skinning, shelter construction, and the like” (the resulting essay later appeared in his first book, Fraud). Then there was the twenty-day fast, “where one is supposed to just credulously let go and put one’s trust in the lack of food to effect its wonderful magic in releasing toxins and making you feel better than you ever thought possible.” About this experience, he told a story as thought-provoking as it was hilarious on the public-radio program This American Life.

    Rakoff also asserted that “on some level I am the perfect person for a game like this. I am deeply concerned with self-sufficiency, even though I can’t drive. I cut my own hair, I recently made my own jeans, I made all the lamps in my apartment, and my freezer is full of bags of animal carcasses suitable for boiling down into stock as needed.”

    So what was the problem? Thoroughly confusing us, Rakoff finally admitted, “I am terrible at stuff like this”—not at being exiled to a desert island, that is, but at selecting just five things to take along. Probably it’s his intensely inquisitive nature. For example, during his fast, he had so many questions that his “guru, a man who through his own constant spiritual questing was a paragon of inner peace and enlightenment, a man who was by his own admission a personal friend to His Holiness the Dalai Lama, became openly abusive, and I, for one, can hardly blame him.”

    Things began to make sense. If Rakoff seems kind of neurotically self-analytical, not to mention self-contradictory and perhaps a tad self-loathing—well, remember, he is a writer. Also, he lives in New York.

    Then there’s his obsession with time travel. Apparently he ruminates “at least once a day” on how he would have been “just as useless a member of society” five hundred years ago as he is now. “I don’t know how to make a light bulb or an electrical circuit or a pill,” he said. “I wouldn’t even seem smart or modern enough to be burned as a witch. I’m not joking. I really do think about this daily and use it as an excuse to feel bad about myself.”

    That’s when we felt it was necessary to tell Rakoff to buck up. He did so immediately and, in a “penitential spirit,” came up with the following to pack in his desert-island kit bag:

    1. My bowdrill supplies, those wooden implements I carved at wilderness camp, by which I can make fire using nothing more than sticks and some downy vegetable matter like dried grass. (I really can make fire with this. It’s far and away the coolest thing I can do. Children who have seen me do this have never gotten over it.)

    2. A good carbon steel hunting knife.

    3. A whetstone for that knife.

    4. Plastic sheeting, preferably opaque, for constructing weatherproof shelter and for stretching over a hole in the ground and gathering the resulting condensation for drinking water.

    5. Finally, Remembrance of Things Past by Marcel Proust, a work I have never read and likely will never get to. Only so that when eventually, in that arid and neglected place, those who come after me might look from those pages (now yellowing and curled like dead leaves) to my sun-bleached bones, and think to themselves, What a waste. Of course, they will be wrong.

    Rakoff will be the featured guest at the Friends of the Minneapolis Public Library’s annual meeting on October 3; for tickets call 612-630-6155, or visit www.friendsofmpl.org. Don’t Get Too Comfortable, Rakoff’s latest collection of essays, is available in paperback on September 12.

  • Daughter of God

    Sometimes, Grace Kolenda Deters dreams in Portuguese. Ordinary dreams are of her daily life in Nevada, her home five hundred feet above Lake Tahoe, with its shore-to-shore views. Or scenes from past decades spent in Minneapolis: graduate school, therapy, her daughter’s ice-skating lessons, snow.

     

    Less often, she dreams of lilies. Or of the boils that infected her body that first year in Brazil, the deep pits that now remain. Poisonous coral snakes coiled on the outhouse seat, jararaca snakes dangling from the darkness of banana trees. Raw sores on her mother’s skin. Tropical lice. The twelve-inch roundworm—a pale, headless snake that crawled out of her intestine in the night and lay placidly beside her in bed the next morning.

    Graceann Kolenda was five years old when she first disembarked in Rio de Janeiro in 1939. Her father, John Peter Kolenda, was a missionary preacher in the Assemblies of God church—an evangelical denomination based on a literal belief in the Bible, and an acceptance of the Holy Ghost manifesting itself through converts speaking “in tongues.”

    Grace and her husband Bill lived and raised their three daughters in Minneapolis until 1998, when they sold their business and moved to Nevada. Between family and business ties, they still visit the Twin Cities often. When we first met in March to discuss writing her life story, she looked many years younger than seventy-two, despite growing up under the tropical sun. She keeps an incredibly busy schedule in her retirement, traveling often and returning to Brazil every five years or so. She still plays tennis every day, and gambles several times a week in the casinos—an irony that makes her smile.

    Grace wanted to record her story for her children and grandchildren, and for herself—the grown-up version as well as the girl she had once been. By the time of our meeting, she had already spent many months typing her memories and transcribing her parents’ copious letters. The stories that follow—scenes from Grace’s early life, lived under the close watch of a harsh God—are based on interviews, letters, and her extensive historical notes. —J.O.

    My father, John Kolenda, was a missionary preacher of extreme passion. He passionately loved my mother. He passionately loved my sister Dorothy. And he passionately loved me. But most of all, he passionately loved Jesus, and the godly mission to win souls for the Church in Jesus’ name. From my earliest days, I understood that my father’s life work was about serving God as he saw fit—and my job was helping him. It was simple enough, and impossible. But I was determined. So when my father volunteered my services as pallbearer to the locals, I willingly obliged. I would carry babies to their graves.

    The babies I carried lay still in their open caskets, their smooth skin oddly dry in the damp heat. White calla lilies lined the boxes of fresh-hewn pine that dug into the flesh of my fingers. Lily petals grazed the babies’ cheeks, and a floral scent rose thick as bread dough. It was the summer of 1942 in the tiny village of Coqueiros, on the outskirts of the small town of Florianópolis, Brazil. I was seven years old, bearing the weight of life and death in too-close succession. Death dressed in clean white cotton, resting in a bed of flowers. I thought the scent of lilies would press down my throat and choke me.

    Always the funeral processions for the babies wended past my house, with its wide veranda and lush garden, set in front of a banana grove dotted with papaya and avocado trees. Malnourishment was rampant, and I was the tallest, strongest child in our village. It was my job to help carry the casket of every baby who succumbed to the meanness of poverty. It didn’t matter if I knew the baby’s name, if I had ever held her while her heart still beat, or if I had ever even seen her alive. Mostly, I had not.

    My sister Dorothy, six years older, was beyond this task. By thirteen, Brazilian girls were marrying and becoming mothers themselves. Tradition demanded other children carry the casket of an infant. That meant me on one side of the wooden box for the entire three miles to the cemetery, and a rotation of village children on the other side, trading off to rest their aching arms.

    Usually, of the twenty or so children walking the casket, I would recognize two or three. We all dressed for the occasion. I wore my Sunday best, colorful cotton skirts that swished across my suntanned knees as I stepped, and white embroidered blouses. On my dusty feet, I wore tamancos—thin wooden-soled shoes with a leather strap to hold them on.

    There were so many dead babies. Sometimes it was the sugared coffee in their bottles that did it—or coffee mixed, for the lucky ones, with a touch of powdered or canned milk when the privilege of the breast was passed over to a newborn sibling. Other times, parasites chewed the babies up from inside, leaving them hollowed out by diarrhea and dehydration. With no medical care to speak of, baby funerals were as common as rain and salt.

    Just beyond my house, on the first stretch of our journey, was Praia da Saudades, loosely translated from Portuguese as “Lonesome Beach.” In fact, saudades eludes translation. There are a few words in Spanish and English that brush up against it, that hint at the danger of its melancholy, but ultimately, translations fail to convey the gripping despair. Saudades means to miss something or someone, but so much more. It means to be swallowed alive by an unnamed loss, to lose your mind in the pitch black of hope’s destruction, to writhe with the ripping pain of a broken heart.

    You can die from saudades.

    Praia da Saudades was the natural backdrop to the agony of the mothers and fathers, grandparents and siblings who accompanied the tiny caskets. Brazilians do not hold back in their grieving. Their cacophony of sorrow would crash with the waves against the rocks.

    From Praia da Saudades, the dirt road continued uphill, with the ocean on the right, and on the left, the houses of Coqueiros—Spanish adobe style, of a plastered brick, mostly, and some of wood. They butted their modest front doors up against the street. There was no sidewalk. We marched straight down the middle of the one-lane road, so that when a truck rumbled by, we would step aside and wait while we disappeared in a billow of brown dust. I can still taste that dust.

    About one mile from my house, the winding road passed a small Catholic church. There, we would turn left, toward the west, and continue another two miles or so over very hilly terrain, with only a few houses and mostly open fields. Finally, we would arrive at the cemetery, where the fresh-dug grave would gape beneath a cloudless sky. Each member of the funeral procession would toss a shovelful of dirt onto the baby’s coffin.

    No one was embalmed in our neighborhood, so bodies were buried within twenty-four hours of death. Since the cemetery itself was small—only about seventy-five feet long—and deaths were constant, graves had to be re-used every few years. Any shovelful of dirt was apt to include a bone or two from a grave’s previous occupant. At one baby burial, I turned over my rusty shovel to set loose a cascade of dry earth and a full set of human teeth, clenched. And at the far end of the cemetery, a squat, stucco building housed a jumble of anonymous skulls and bones of those who’d rested in peace too briefly before being unearthed.

    Like the babies I buried, I died in Brazil. And I was reshaped from the dirt and the water of a place that seeped into me in the night, through my eyes and nose and mouth, through my pores. Brazil, like my father’s voice, gripped me and made me in its image. I nearly drowned in saudades, but I came up gasping. It eventually released me, but not completely.

    The first time I crawled into bed with Albert Vidmar was at Aunt Martha’s house in Porto Alegre, before my father had established his own mission. Brother Vidmar, a Swiss missionary, had come to visit Mom and Dad for a week, mostly to talk with Dad about taking over Vidmar’s mission territory of Santa Catarina. It was May 1940, and winter was coming. The evening air was already cool.

    It was just past dusk when Brother Vidmar came to me, on the first night of his visit. “Gracie,” he said, “if you come to my room in the morning, I’ll tell you a story.” Even at barely six years old, I knew Brother Vidmar was a handsome man. And he was so much younger-seeming than my parents. With his motorcycle and his dashing mustache, Brother Vidmar was my prince from the moment I saw him. He paid me a lot of attention, too. He lavished me with it in a way that my parents never could. “Well, dearie,” he said, tugging my braid. “Will you come keep me company in the morning?”

    “Yes!” I said.

    “Delightful. I shall expect you, then.” He pressed his face toward mine. I could see the individual hairs of his moustache, gold, brown, a little bit red. He winked, then giggled like a little boy. His eyes crinkled up in the kindest way. I would have died for Brother Vidmar.

    Soon after the weak light of earliest morning washed through my window, I stepped out of bed and crept through the small house. Brother Vidmar’s room was across a short, wide hall from mine. I paused briefly at the end of the hall to examine Aunt Martha’s foot-pedal sewing machine, a black Singer. I pumped the treadle first slowly, then faster and faster. The bandwheel made a pleasing whir as it spun crazily. But I thought it best not to risk waking Aunt Martha, or my parents. Reluctantly, I turned back toward Brother Vidmar’s room and knocked softly on the closed door. It was painted the color of heavy cream, with large chips and scratches around the tarnished brass doorknob plate. Many layers beneath the cream, the paint was blue, like the sky. This color streaked through where the door was most scarred. I knocked again, louder. I heard a stirring behind the door, then Brother Vidmar’s voice. “Come in, I am waiting,” he said.

    I opened the door and stepped across Aunt Martha’s rag rug to Brother Vidmar’s bed. He smelled odd, but good, like something in the shade of the woods. He lifted the faded quilt, with its cut-square pattern of yellows and browns, and beckoned me under it. The bed was musty and warm with the heat of his body. “Do you know about the Indians, Gracie?” he asked, patting my head. “There are savages in the interior, and in the south. Let me tell you a story.” His soft voice was so unlike my father’s clipped, staccato speech. Brother Vidmar’s words were liquid glass, utterly smooth.

    My father found himself quite taken with Brother Vidmar, too. He readily agreed to tour Santa Catarina with Vidmar, and to visit his cottage in the tiny and beautiful village of Coqueiros. My father was impressed with what he saw. Next, my mother accompanied my father on a trip to survey the area, and finally, all four of us, with help from two of Aunt Martha’s sons, made the trek to relocate our family from Porto Alegre to Coqueiros.

    Eventually, Brother Vidmar would venture permanently southward to found new missions in Argentina, leaving his Coqueiros cottage to us as our private family home. In the beginning, though, we all shared the tiny dwelling, which Brother Vidmar had painted entirely white except for the light brown wooden planks of the floor. The windows had bright blue shutters on the outside, but no curtains indoors. The cottage’s best feature by far was Nero, Brother Vidmar’s faithful German Shepherd. When Brother Vidmar traveled—which he did frequently—Nero would predict his master’s homecomings twenty-four hours in advance by howling mournfully toward the horizon.

    Until my father finally built an addition on the cottage, we were limb upon limb there. My parents placed their rubber mattress in the only bedroom. They bought twin beds for Dorothy and me, and arranged them in the room that had been Brother Vidmar’s study. Brother Vidmar slept on the couch, or sometimes, on an army cot in the front entryway. The couch was gray and utilitarian. It did not open into a hide-away bed, but still, it was quite comfortable. The cot, on the other hand, was dreadful.

    I never lay with Brother Vidmar on the gray couch—only on the cot in the front entryway. The couch was in such plain view. I’m sure Brother Vidmar worried about what my parents might see. As it was, we had plenty of company from the lagartixas—small green lizards that climb up and down the walls, especially at night. There were dozens of lagartixas in every room of our house.

    The front entry where Brother Vidmar kept his cot was an unusual space, almost like a small room. It was long and narrow, with one window and two doors. One door opened up to the porch and the outside, and one led into the living area.

    This narrow space was where my father would lock up a schizophrenic young man and attempt to exorcise the boy’s demons. It was where he would one day beat me bloody with a wooden hanger. But that came later. In the beginning, it was the room where I crawled in bed with Brother Vidmar.

    Brother Vidmar traveled constantly, and I missed him when he was away. I loved how, when he was home, he always had a smile and a wink for me, how he made time for me. And I loved his stories. I’d wake up at sunrise and knock on the door to his entryway. He’d let me in, and I’d crawl into his nice warm bed. We’d press our heads together under the thin gray blankets of his cot, and he’d whisper to me of his adventures in Argentina and Uruguay. I’d ride with him along the currents of his warm breath deep into the Amazon, with the crocodiles and the brown-skinned Indians with exotic shards of polished bone stretching the soft flesh of their ears and nostrils.

    Brother Vidmar asked so little of me when weighed against all he gave. I had only to rub his big toe, which was always hurting from an old wound. Brother Vidmar’s toe was not like my father’s, which was bony and calloused with a sprouting of dark hair beneath a thick nail clouded with age. The toe that Brother Vidmar slipped into my palm in the darkness of his cot was completely smooth. It was always warm, and sometimes, damp and slippery. I wondered why this was so, but feared that asking would be rude. Finally, as I rubbed and rubbed one morning, I could no longer resist. “Brother Vidmar,” I said, “why does your toe have no toenail?”

    “Gracie,” he moaned, pulling my hand off his toe and propping himself up on his elbows. A lagartixa scurried up the wall beside us and froze, its lizard legs splayed and clutching. “The day I lost my toenail was a terrible one, child. I’m lucky to be alive. I was in the wilds of Argentina, saving souls for Jesus in the backwaters of the rain forest. A thick billow of steam rose from the water, unlike anything I’d ever seen. That steam was bewitched—it nearly made me insane. Before I knew what was happening, I’d lost control of my canoe, and next thing I knew I was flailing in the river. That’s when I saw the wicked beast, those sulfurous yellow eyes bulging out of the water. Have you ever seen a crocodile, child?”

    “No,” I said, I had not.

    “You should hope you never do. I wish I hadn’t. But I’m strong and fast,” Brother Vidmar continued. “I swam hard and was nearly pulling myself ashore when the croc overtook me. He tore off the tip of my toe with his ugly teeth. Good thing I was near the site of an Indian encampment. The Indians dragged me to their village and wrapped my toe in a poultice with special herbs. Those herbs stopped the bleeding lickety-split, and the next morning, I couldn’t believe my eyes. My toe was completely healed.”

    Brother Vidmar closed his eyes and sucked in a long breath. “Except for the nail. That never grew back. And the ache. Always the ache.” He pulled my hand away from its anxious twisting of my short braid, and guided it back under the blankets. His toe was hot and throbbing now. “It hurts, Gracie. You can’t imagine how it hurts. Keep rubbing, child. Don’t stop rubbing.”

    Near the same time we moved in with Brother Vidmar in Coqueiros, a sixteen-year-old village girl accused him of molesting her. The girl’s younger sister accused him, too. My mother was enraged. “It is inconceivable that such a godly man could have violated those young girls,” she said. Father was apoplectic. “It’s the devil’s work,” he shouted, his voice cracking with fury. “Satan is working through these girls to destroy this wonderful man. We must help him fight back against this atrocity.”

    Despite my parents’ efforts, the authorities were unconvinced of Vidmar’s innocence. He served a short stint in the county jail before being released on probation. Still, he was able to travel freely. And Nero continued to predict his master’s homecomings, to which we both looked forward with great anticipation.

    As a child, I thought of myself as special. I pitied the unbelievers, who didn’t know Jesus as I did. I was proud to be the daughter of a fine minister, so close to God. I felt especially lucky on the July morning when our maid, Vadica, took me to the market in Florianópolis. We rose early to catch the five-thirty bus into town. When we stepped onto the dusty roadside, the air was cool, and there was a slight fog over the ocean. I was nine years old. The sun had barely risen.

    Even this early, Florianópolis was already busy. The market was framed by two red stucco buildings, each the length of a football field. Between them was an expansive corridor, filled with stalls. Inside, vendors peddled meat, bacalhau—or codfish, a Brazilian staple—and shrimp, as well as rich sweet egg breads and toasted manioc. Outside, produce sellers’ carts spilled over with towers of lime, banana, coconut, mango, papaya, pineapple, peppers, potatoes, and corn. Vendors called out over the festive strains of live Brazilian samba.

    I loved the Florianópolis market. It still operates today, nearly unchanged, but I’ve avoided it ever since that July morning when Vadica and I heard the screaming from the far end of the corridor. We were twisting our way through the produce carts to see what was happening when a headless man reeled towards me. Blood spurted from the place where his head had recently been. He jerked blindly like the chickens I killed every Saturday for our Sunday dinners. Behind him, his assailant waved a bloody machete. I watched the dying man stagger for yards and yards—though really it could only have been four or five long steps—before his body crumpled to the ground.

    My throat buckled somewhere near my sternum and the bile from my empty stomach erupted viciously.

    After the market beheading, I could no longer decapitate our chickens with a sharp axe, as I had done before. To see them jump about headless was now too much for me. I searched for a faster, more merciful method of killing. The worst I tried was tying the chickens upside down to a tree branch and struggling, while they swayed and clucked, to twist their necks until they broke. Much better was to tie them to the tree and first pluck a few feathers from their necks. Then, I’d use a very sharp knife to quickly slice through the featherless patch of pale skin. This quieted the chickens in only seconds.

    Not too long after I perfected this technique, my family visited the farm of our Latvian friends, Brother and Sister Karklis. They lived off the land a hundred miles straight west, in Urubici. This village, folded into a spectacular valley about three thousand feet above sea level, was one of the most beautiful places in the sierra of Santa Catarina. The Karklis family grew their own vegetables and grains, and raised chickens, ducks, sheep, cattle, and, for transportation, horses. They spun wool with foot-driven spinning wheels, and wove their own blankets and sweaters. Urubici gets cold in winter, even snowy. So when we stayed there, Sister Karklis would warm our beds with stones she fired on the wood stove, and I would burrow in between two thick feather ticks. In the morning, the woodstove would blaze in the kitchen, and from my bedroom, I’d smell coffee and hot rolls.

    I loved to go milk the cows with Brother Karklis and his son, Wilson. The barn was spotless, but still, there were the layered smells of tangy manure and fresh milk, and the sweet scent of the animals—their skin and sweat, their moist breath. I loved the mooing. I was not afraid, only amazed.

    On this particular trip, after the market beheading, I took special comfort in feeding the newborn lambs whose mothers had been killed. Inevitably, I fell in love with one, and Mother took notice. “John,” she said to my father, “why don’t we let Gracie have a lamb? I would be such a blessing for her to forget the bad experience she had at the market. She is such a dear girl.”

    My father considered. Whenever Dad spoke, he did so clearly and slowly, always authoritatively. He believed every word he said. “Marguerite,” he answered my mother, finally. “I like that idea. Let’s pray about it, and decide tomorrow.”

    The next day, my father announced that the lamb could be my project. I could feed her, care for her, get her fat, and then we’d have fresh lamb to eat. Even Dorothy was enthusiastic.

    We made a small box out of wood to haul my woolly baby on the bus trip back to Coqueiros. I named her Becky, for her beauty and girlishness. She was bright white, with intelligent black eyes. I knew she understood every word I said to her, because she murmured back to me with soft baa-baas. Soon, I could tell if her baa-ing meant she was hungry or just happy. I held her on my lap and bottle-fed her several times a day. I loved to curl the tendrils of her wool around my fingers, to bury my face in her softness. She nearly always stayed beside me. When we walked in the woods together, she’d get covered in burrs and dust. Then I would bathe her and comb my fingers through her wet ringlets.

    By December, Becky was thriving. She was almost seven months old, with a thick coat of wool. It was Brazilian summertime, so Mother decided to shear her. She used the wool for pillows, and was pleased. Meanwhile, though, Becky was becoming a nuisance. Neighbors complained that she was eating their flowers and bushes, spoiling their yards with droppings. She ate our flowers and bushes, too, but I didn’t mind. She was my girl, my best friend.

    My sister Dorothy was six years older, so she and I were never playmates in the way Becky and I were. Dorothy was busy with her own friends and preoccupations. Then there was Mother, who loved me so much and Dorothy so little, for reasons we would only understand years and then decades later, when the secrets of first Dorothy’s adoption and then her paternity by my father’s brother would finally be revealed. But within the shroud of childhood ignorance, such unexplained inequity of motherly love corroded the sisterly bond we might have shared.

    With my Becky, love was easy and uncomplicated as it could never be with my sister, or my parents. If I’d have given my life once for Brother Vidmar, then I’d have given my life ten times for Becky.

    Even so, I wasn’t scared when I first skipped off the bus that day in May and found that Becky wasn’t waiting, as she should have been. She was almost a year old, strong and healthy. Probably she was just on her way. I called for her as I ran down the dirt road toward home. The noontime sun blazed overhead.

    When I reached our cottage, I was sweating hard and my lungs burned from running. I pounded up the stairs and through the front door. Dorothy was in the kitchen, sitting at the table, looking down at her cutting board and smiling with her mouth closed. She was slicing peppers for feijoada, our daily dish of rice and beans.

    “Dorothy,” I panted, “have you seen Becky?” My sister ignored me and continued slicing. Her knife made a smooth frictionless whish as she drew it against the worn board again and again.

    I watched her and thought maybe I should wait until she was finished cutting peppers to ask again. Wait until I could have her full attention, without interruption. But then she spoke suddenly, almost absent-mindedly. “Grace,” she said. “You should look in the refrigerator.”

    I obeyed Dorothy automatically, as always. Our refrigerator was not much taller than I was, and heavy, with two large metal hinges on the right-hand side of the door and a large handle on the left, perfectly level with my chest. I had to pull hard on the handle with both hands, knowing too late what I would see. Mounds of ragged meat, red blood pooling beneath it.

    There was sudden darkness, and a ripping inside. I was screaming from far away, pushing past the open refrigerator door, past Dorothy, into my bedroom, where I stayed for three days and nights. I lay motionless in my bed, waiting to die.

    But I didn’t die. I had to live with the pain, and with the questions it fertilized. Why would my father have slaughtered Becky without even letting me say goodbye?

    I didn’t plan my revenge, but I took it all the same. It was the Sunday after Becky’s death and I knew from the moment I awoke that I would defy my father. When I’d finished with my crime, my father was waiting for me in the entryway. It was God’s will and a biblical imperative for him to beat me, whether he wanted to or not. Beside him stood a baby-doll carriage that belonged to me, and from inside it he pulled a wooden coat hanger. He told me to bare myself and bend over. The beating hurt, and my skin welted and then split open. Blood ran down my legs and mixed with the dust and salt on my feet. I was sorry for the beating, and I was sorry for my father, who didn’t want to do it. But I wasn’t truly sorry for what I’d done.

    I could not be truly sorry. I’d meant to defy him that morning, even if I hadn’t yet known why. When I’d gotten out of bed, the sun was already hot and the water in our bay was still and calm. I knew it was unthinkable for me, the minister’s daughter, to skip Sunday school. The church was right on our own property! All the same, after I ate my breakfast, I went outside and made my way down the rocky cliff to our private beach. The stones there were dark and hot, and they were covered with oysters, my favorite snack. I used a sharp rock to crack them open, oyster after salty oyster, sucking the meat from their shells until my stomach strained with fullness.

    I leaned my head back and stared up at the wide sky. It was not too late to go home. To go to Sunday school. The water lapped over the rocks and covered my bare feet, brown from the sun. It soaked the hem of my dress, cool and inviting. The water was so still, so gentle. How wonderful it would feel to glide across the calm bay in a boat. I began walking down the beach, toward my friend’s house. She was playing outdoors, too. Together, we carefully hauled her father’s boat—a white skiff with green trim and two wooden oars—to the water’s edge. She climbed in first, and I pushed us off. The water was so clear we could see the rocky bottom even dozens of feet from shore.

    We sang Portuguese school songs as we rowed, and splashed each other with our oars. Blue sky pressed against blue water until time collapsed; there was no way to know how long we floated, two ten-year-old girls, happy.

    But as we paddled and then drifted farther and farther from the beach, I heard my mother’s voice, calling for me to turn around. Sunday school was about to begin. I splashed a high arc of water droplets toward a seagull overhead. My friend giggled. Then I heard my father. “Graceann,” he called. “Come back here, right now.” His voice was measured and certain, as always. I could picture him behind me, standing on the jagged rocks above the shore, and behind him, our cottage, the church, what was left of Becky. In front of me, the shimmering waters of our bay rocked gently onward, spilling almost seamlessly into the darkness of the open sea. A rhyme came into my head, something we children often sang to decide who had to be “it” in tag, or to choose which game to play, or the better of two paths. Softly, I sang the rhyme out loud: Là em cima do piano/ Tem um copo de veneno/ Quem bebeu!/ Morreu! On top of the piano/ Is a glass of
    poison/ Who drank it!/ Died!

    “Graceann!” my father yelled, louder now. “Turn around!”

    I slipped my oar into the water and paddled just a little farther toward the horizon.

  • Respects to 1992

    Fashion fuels itself on the past, spinning out retreads, revivals, and re-interpretations, produced at what seems to be an ever-faster rate. In fact, because of this profusion of styles, you’d have to go back to the early 90s to find evidence of the last really big rally around one particular look. For a few short years, young rockers and their fans took seam-rippers to their jeans, mussed up their hair, and piled on layers of figure-obscuring garments: extra-long-sleeved thermals, unbuttoned flannel shirts, hooded sweatshirts, misshapen cardigans, and, of course, work boots (an aesthetic that, itself, borrowed not a few things from the late 60s).

    Fashion also fuels itself on subcultures: Some of those early 90s grunge fans were clothing designers. The 1992 collection that a young Marc Jacobs designed for Perry Ellis was based on flannel skirts, cashmere thermals, layer upon layer upon layer, even skull caps. This season, not surprisingly, Jacobs is credited for having picked up the speed with which designers rummage through our past; he has spearheaded a “grunge redux” style made up of chunky, knit headdresses and baggy, shirt-tied skirts. For those who like to relate fashion trends to larger influences, the revival seems apropos, given the United States’ wars in the Middle East then and now, as well as its battles with a decidedly lackluster economy.

    The difference today, though, is that, with our fractured culture and always-splintering preferences for music, art, and fashion, there’s little chance tastemakers will converge on any one influence. The mid-1980s continue to be an abundant source of inspiration, judging from all the legwarmers, leggings, and ultra-wide belts. A slow burning of embellishment is also afoot, making way for more austere, minimalist treatments—another echo of what transpired in the early 90s, when tailored dresses and coats took on simple cuts and long, severe lines. As with last year, boots continue to play a central role, alongside plenty of dark and muted colors, a flash of metallics, and piles upon piles of knits.

    To view the fall fashion images, click on the PDF below.

  • Antipodean Sweetener

    One of the unsung pleasures of a summer weekend in an English country house is the short shelf of books left in the spare bedroom for the entertainment of guests. If you are out of luck, the row of volumes on the bedside table consists of Reader’s Digest Condensed Books, Regency bodice-rippers by the likes of Georgette Heyer or, worst of all, copies of the Watchtower.

    A few years ago, every spare bedroom I slept in seemed to boast a copy of Jessica Mitford’s American Way of Death. One could see why one’s kind hosts might not want this gripping volume in a room that they used regularly themselves. It is an entertaining but distinctly macabre exposé of the trade practices of undertakers in the Eisenhower era. Once one has read it, one never forgets the T-shaped layout of the ideal coffin showroom and the methods used to steer mourning relatives toward the most expensive coffins. These, one is told, should be placed in the right-hand arm of the T (because research has shown that wanderers lost in the Antarctic are likely to go round in right-handed circles, like waste water in an antipodean plughole). Some of Miss Mitford’s revelations about embalming are unlikely to induce slumber. I am sure it is all very out of date nowadays. And anyway, she was a Communist.

    But the greatest find I ever had was a thriller by John Buchan called The Courts of the Morning. John Buchan was a prolific producer of literate light literature in the decades before and after the First World War (he died as governor general of Canada in 1941). Critics have considered his heroes literary ancestors of James Bond, but actually the contrasts are more instructive. There’s precious little technology (though it is occasionally handy that Sir Archie Roylance is an early aviator).

    Unlike the sybaritic Bond, Buchan’s Richard Hannay and Sandy Arbuthnot are quietly public-spirited. Though True Love sometimes comes to the surface, there is no sign of Miss Pussy Galore and her bathykolpian avatars; Buchan is the only thriller writer I know to have been an enthusiast for John Bunyan’s Pilgrim’s Progress.

    Perhaps Bunyan also affected Buchan’s genius for evoking landscape. The grand, green hills around Erzerum in Eastern Turkey provide spectacular scenery for the dénouement of Greenmantle, a yarn about Hannay and Sandy Arbuthnot using charm and intelligence to foil an Islamic uprising in the darkest days of the First World War. What stuck in the mind from the weekend I spent with The Courts of the Morning was certainly the landscape where the tale unfolds. The core of the story is a miners’ conspiracy in the province of Gran Secco (Big Thirst).
    Quite how Sandy Arbuthnot got embroiled in it has long evaporated from memory, but the sense of him speeding up and down the west coast of South America, plunging into deep valleys in sight of snow-topped mountains to deploy his diplomatic skills lingers in the mind like a sweet smell.

    I cannot recall what he drank while he was achieving all this. After all, I had to read fast; it would have been tacky to miss meals and tackier still to let the volume find its way into my suitcase (not a temptation for a reader contemplating the grim revelations of Miss Mitford). But there was surely wine to be had. Already in 1933, Viu Manet, nowadays one of the largest wine concerns in South America, was taking advantage of the alternating sea breezes and dry air from the Andes to grow grapes in the temperate vales of Chile.

    Since I first met them in England some thirty years ago, Chilean wines have improved massively. Let me commend to you the Semillon made by Viu Manet, a sweet white wine which can be had in half-bottles hereabouts for around twelve dollars. Sweet, but not too sweet, not Bourbon or embalming fluid, lighter than the great French dessert wines of Sauternes that are made from the same sort of grape. Think of it as last-of-the-summer wine, sipped solitarily on the front porch in early evening sunshine, surrounded by the scent of cut grass (so much more pleasing than the sound of grass being cut). Take it with a plain biscuit (OK, cracker) and the kind of light reading whose heroes impart a vicarious sense of mighty deeds achieved. This Semillon might even soothe you into the unjustified conviction that your summer was not entirely wasted. In Chile it is spring.

  • Birthday Angel Scratch Mix

    When I was twenty-four, I decided to bake a cake for my boyfriend’s birthday. Matty was a wannabe rock star and the coolest guy I’d ever dated. I really wanted to pull off something cool, something special, something his mother would never have made. The limits of my first apartment kitchen forced my creativity into overdrive. I baked three cakes—chocolate, yellow, and marble—with the only pan I had: a loaf pan. I then inverted these “cake bricks” and stacked them, one on top of the other. Covering the cake wall with orange and brown frosting wasn’t easy, and it ended up leaning a little to the left, so I jammed a chopstick in the middle for support. The final touches involved throwing random tosses of sprinkles at the cake, embedding green plastic army men into the frosting (they were “scaling” the cake), draping candy necklaces around the edges, and spelling out “I Dig You” in those sugary cake-decoration letters. It was an ugly, towering, behemoth. It was a sugar bomb. It was my whole weird heart on a plate.

    But that’s the thing about cake, isn’t it? Any cake, be it torte or gâteau, sheet or layer, red velvet or devil’s food, is a gift. Weddings and birthdays are a given, but the surprise presentation of a cake on a Tuesday, following an average chicken dinner, has the ability to turn the night into something special. That first boyfriend cake, which has come to be known as Crazy Cake 1.0, opened my eyes to the power of this confection. It makes people giddy, it lets them dream: It’s a sweet escape from the ordinary.

    Cakes have been tied to the cycles of human life since ancient times. The Chinese celebrate their harvest with the mid-autumn Moon Festival. In honor of Chang’e, the goddess who lives on the moon, people exchange mooncakes stuffed with sweet or savory fillings. Ancient Celts celebrated spring with Beltane cakes, which were representative of the returning sun. These cakes were not only eaten and enjoyed, but rolled down the hill in a game of fortune-telling: If your cake reached the bottom intact, it was a year of luck for you.

    Traditionally, cakes were reserved for special occasions because their creation required special skills and the finest, most expensive ingredients from the kitchen. The wealthy enjoyed the fantastic and elaborate cakes more often, but people in the average world still found at least one day a year worthy of a humble cake. The birthday cake wasn’t a popular practice until the late 1800s. Mass production made baking ingredients cheaper to buy, and new railroads made them easier to get. Modern advances gave cooks extra time and new conveniences, like innovative leavening agents such as baking soda and baking powder, about the same time that “Happy Birthday to You” was composed.

    And yet, a cake is more than fine ingredients. During leaner years, people learned to make do without high-quality staples. Recipes for butterless, eggless, and/or milkless cakes call for lard, mayonnaise, water, honey, and vinegar as substitutes. These cakes, with names like Depression Cake and War Cake, prove that even in the toughest times, when you need cake, you need cake.

    It wasn’t until after World War II that dear Betty Crocker turned the world of cake upside down. Dry mixes for biscuits, custards, and gelatin had been around for years by the time General Mills debuted its first cake mix in 1947. Oddly enough, the cake mix wasn’t an instant hit. While it was fine to make biscuits in a flash, cooks had a hard time reconciling the speed and ease of a mix with what a cake should be. A cake needed to be a labor of love; the creation itself deserved to be an event. Recognizing this, General Mills retooled its mixes so that it became necessary to break a few eggs into the bowl. That must have been enough of a contribution, because today most cakes made in the home come from a boxed mix.

    As far as I’m concerned, cake mix has its merits. After Crazy Cake 1.0, there have been many new versions. I’ve baked a nine-layer, striped, Cat-in-the-Hat monstrosity, a three-layer sprawling spider (with black frosting), a five-layer pink bachelorette cake (complete with protruding elements). All of them were made from a mix. They’re reliable, they’re consistent, they’re dummy-proof, and people always comment on how moist they are. I usually tell them it’s an old post-war recipe.

    “Scratch” cakes, by contrast, have become my biggest challenge. My initial desire to create amazing structures from cake has led to my desire to create cakes that, in terms of their ingredients, are beautifully structured from the inside out. But while baking from scratch may be more in fashion these days, it hasn’t gotten any easier. Most baking projects are veritable scientific experiments: If one element is out of whack, you get a sunken center or overly dry grain. But I continue to find new cakes to bake. There needn’t always be an event in mind—sometimes just a little lull in everyday excitement is enough for a cake to slip in and remedy things. I am now a woman of dense and buttery poundcake, rich, dark Sacher tortes, light-as-air pavlovas, and moist, tender chiffon cakes. I plow forward because I know that, in the end, even a lopsided cake will be a well-loved gift.

    Wacky Cake II

    A modern version of Depression Cake

    1 1/2 cups sifted flour

    1 cup sugar

    4 tablespoons cocoa powde r

    1 teaspoon baking soda

    1/2 teaspoon salt

    6 tablespoons vegetable oil

    1 tablespoon white vinegar

    1 teaspoon vanilla

    1 cup cold water

    Pre-heat oven to 350. Sift flour, sugar, cocoa, soda, and salt together into an ungreased 8 x 8 inch pan. Dig three wells in the dry ingredients. In the first well, pour oil. In the second, pour vinegar, and in the third, pour vanilla. Pour water over everything and stir to combine, do not beat. Bake 30 minutes, cake should be springy. Eat it warm with no frosting or just a dollop of sweetened mascarpone.

  • Man of La Mancha

    Teeming with beautiful people who routinely burn beds or weep openly out on its streets, Pedro Almodóvar’s Madrid is a strange and magical place. Exploding in color, it is a city subjected to a constant torrent of emotion and deceit churned up by outrageous women and handsome but impotent men. The Spanish capital—where all his movies save his newest are set—is a place that makes the real world seem destitute by comparison. Watch one of his films and then ask yourself: Why aren’t Almodóvar’s people wandering our streets? Where are the transsexual whores who mingle with the city’s top actresses? The paraplegic cops who sleep with and marry heroin addicts? The babies who are born on city buses, squalling while midwives bite their umbilical cords free? Almodóvar might say that they are everywhere we can come under the spell of a movie. Like the aged Don Quixote transformed into madness by his romances, his coterie of oddballs is enriched by films, even as they try to live up to cinema’s impossible fantasy.

    Almodóvar grew up in the Castilian/La Mancha region of southern Spain, in the rural town of Calzada de Calatrava, the son of a muleteer father and a beloved mother who wouldn’t take any grief from anyone. Calzada had no cinema, but when Almodóvar was eight his family moved to the only slightly more prosperous hamlet of Caceres, where the school and the movie house shared a street. Like most aspiring filmmakers, he watched his favorite pictures again and again, memorizing the names of directors, cinematographers, editors. His diet included the wacky sixties comedies like The Glass Bottom Boat, one of Frank Tashlin’s Doris Day vehicles that feature Day-Glo sets, as well as headier fare, including Hitchcock and Douglas Sirk. In an effort to get his eldest boy an education, Almodóvar’s father sent Pedro to a Catholic school, where he was almost immediately abused by the priests. Finally, at sixteen, he ran away to Madrid, ignoring his father’s threats to call the police. This was not a light warning, as the cops under Franco were notoriously brutal, especially to homosexuals, and the headstrong Almodóvar was just coming out of the closet.

    His early career was bizarre, to say the least. Almodóvar sported fishnet stockings and fronted a punk rock band. He wrote a novel about a tampon magnate who is involved in a love triangle. Working with underground magazines and comics led to his job at a major magazine, where, pretending to be a female porn star, he wrote a weekly column. All the while, he toiled at the national telephone company, saving money to buy his first Super-8 camera. Then he hit the streets of Madrid, making clandestine shorts until the new constitution, passed in 1978 after Franco’s death, allowed filmmakers to express themselves in public. As if to flaunt this freedom, Almodóvar named his first feature-length film, made that same year, Fuck, Fuck, Fuck Me Tim! It tells the story of a blind guitarist whose girlfriend, once he becomes famous, also loses her sight. By now, Almodóvar’s career as anything but a filmmaker was over. “Cinema is a vampire lover,” he told an interviewer in 1988. “It doesn’t let you do other things.”

    His devotion to this vampire lover proved to be more fruitful than anyone could have imagined, as he produced eight films in the next ten years that were enormously successful, in Spain and abroad. In the early years, critics did their best to pigeonhole Almodóvar, lumping him in with the likes of Fassbinder, John Waters, and, unbelievably, Russ Meyer. To a Spain coming out from under the oppression of the Franco regime, Almodóvar’s eccentric films were refreshing. As other Spanish filmmakers did, Almodóvar could have spent his career trying to expunge the memory of the dictatorship, but, to the dismay of some critics, he chose to make films that “den[y] the memory of Franco” by being utterly apolitical.

    In fact, as Almodóvar matured, his movies became powerful emotional vehicles about dreamers struggling against the weight of the world—and often using a love of film to transform their wretched lives. It is not hard to imagine how he would end up taking this route. Even mediocre movies can engage the spirit, mesmerizing viewers (including, especially, budding directors) with a host of media, encompassing writing, music, dance, photography, and, of course, acting and directing. Explaining the intense use of color in his films, Almodóvar has said that it “is my way of fighting the austerity of my origins.” Anyone from a lugubrious small town lacking in culture and even actual color knows that a mediocre picture like The Glass Bottom Boat can be a profound joy. How often do small-town nobodies recreate the dance steps of Singin’ in the Rain or, perhaps more pathetically, the longbow techniques of an elf in Lord of the Rings? Almodóvar, like too many of us, trusts film implicitly, believing that the stories unfolding before him were ones that could change a person’s life. They certainly changed his.

    And so, armed with a camera, Almodóvar set out to show the world a life informed by film. 1988’s Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown (the first film screening as part of the Viva Pedro! retrospective, which begins on September 15 at the Lagoon Cinema), which established the filmmaker’s reputation in America, not only references some of Billy Wilder’s comedies of the sixties, like One, Two, Three!, but also Rear Window in many of its shots as well as its story (in fact, a voyeuristic shot of a woman dancing is a direct copy of one from the Hitchcock film). But Almodóvar is not content simply to borrow from his masters: Pepa (played by original Almodóvar muse Carmen Maura) meets her lover dubbing films in Spanish, most notably Joan Crawford’s voice in the western Johnny Guitar. Her paramour’s jealous and psychotic wife comes out of a decade-long trance when she hears her husband’s dubbing the voice of Crawford co-star Sterling Hayden—and with that, the fun begins. What is considered perhaps the most over-the-top melodramatic western in history is a catalyst for the characters in an over-the-top melodramatic comedy.

    In an early scene in All About My Mother (1999), the filmmaker’s tribute to the Almodóvar matriarch, the titular mother and her doomed son watch All About Eve. The film draws out a telling conversation that will inform the rest of the movie—which becomes in many ways a remake, albeit a very sweet one, of the catty Bette Davis vehicle. Mother is, then, both homage and remake. As if that weren’t enough, there’s a play within the film: Tennessee Williams’ A Streetcar Named Desire, a piece of drama so dominated by its cinematic double that its Stanley Kowalski is forever judged by Marlon Brando’s performance. Here, though, Almodóvar seems intent on returning Streetcar to its rightful place as a vehicle for Blanche—and his own female characters in All About My Mother.

    Classics like All About Eve, Vertigo, Rear Window, Johnny Guitar—to name but a few—are invoked like saints in Almodóvar’s films. But these are not just sly references from a precocious cinema-studies wonk (Almodóvar was self-taught, anyway); rather, they offer clues to his characters’ motivations, or serve as outright plot devices used to move the story forward. Unlike the Coen brothers in their weak moments, Almodóvar never references a movie merely for homage. Like a mobius strip circling back upon itself, this is a cinematic world under the influence of a director god, whose characters, at the same moment, watch movies in this little world—and act, often tragically, upon them.

    His characters are condemned to live, as many of us do, encircled by clouds of Hollywood fantasy that can enrich lives as much as they can destroy them. Almodóvar’s people watch movies obsessively, act out fantasies, try to look like other people, are filmmakers, dancers, and musicians themselves, lost in their art. But there is an honesty to them, because Almodóvar recognizes that their dreams are a necessary part of a cruel world. These people may not have anything else going for them besides their attempts to live up to impossible fantasies—but the world is a better place for those attempts. “All I have that’s real are my feelings,” admits a transsexual whore in All About My Mother. Could anything be more real?

    In his masterpiece Talk to Her (2002), Almodóvar borrows from Vertigo in a manner that directly propels his own story and makes it meaningful. Noticing his nod to Hitchcock’s most uneasy thriller will reward the viewer, who can then see that the protagonist, Benigno, will take a path eerily similar to that of Jimmy Stewart’s character, Scottie Ferguson. But you can ignore the reference to the Master of Suspense and still be fulfilled—whereas the Coens’ nod to Night of the Hunter in The Man Who Wasn’t There has no value whatsoever, except to elicit knowing looks on the part of film buffs. And Talk to Her’s most intense scene is hidden by the film-within-a-film (a wildly erotic silent film called The Shrinking Lover, one of Almodóvar’s own short films), which not only inspires the protagonist to rape his comatose charge, but also allows Almodóvar to hide this depraved act by showing us the silent picture.

    Almodóvar’s work over the last dozen years has attained a level of emotional maturity that virtually no other director today has achieved. Put simply, he makes us care deeply for people who commit revolting acts or who are utterly self-destructive. We watch in awe as they take whatever anodyne can soothe the cruelty meted out to them in (often short) lifetimes. That Almodóvar does this without hovering over the pain and sorrow, and instead offers restraint and respect—no matter what the crime or moral decision—makes his films unique. For this reason, attempting to summarize one of his plots can seem like an invitation for abuse. Could you really convince someone alien to Almodóvar that Talk to Her, the story of two men who love two respective comatose women, one to the extent that he impregnates his and wishes to marry her, would be anything other than exploitive? At best, this sounds like a sick comedy instead of searing melodrama (and also the best film of its year).

    One has to wonder: Did poverty and a life in the wastelands of Spain push Almodóvar to these heights? Did the combination of his abuse and his intensely loving family somehow help him to create a world without loathsome characters? Almodóvar adores his rapists, his drug addicts and transsexuals, loves the brutish men who demand blow jobs at inopportune moments; he loves the sinner nearly as much as the sin, and possesses a cunning instinct for family, for those who are lost, for the underclass, and for the rich. Growing up in small Catholic towns, it is unlikely that he encountered too many transvestites and criminals—the movies would prove, then, to be his first window into the sordid, and often sympathetic, world of the big city: the place that would become his Madrid.

  • “My job is to ruin everything.”

    The patterns in Andrea Carlson’s paintings swirl in the corner of your eye and hold a fierce repose when you look at them straight on. There’s something living in there. It’s not so much complicated as simply un-nameable. In Aadinzookanaag (Spirits), for instance, angular cloud shapes stay just at the edge of resolving into figures of animals and birds, while the black and white chevrons of the receding landscape indicate a charged ground, a place where anything could happen. Still, representation isn’t quite the point here; invocation is. The meaning that Carlson conjures isn’t an interpretation, it’s a force.

    These complex, demanding, funny, lavish, and sexy paintings (it’s typical of Carlson’s work that you keep coming up with words that you usually don’t think of together) are something completely new as well as ancient, and they’re getting their twenty-six-year-old creator noticed in many quarters. Along with her solo exhibition this month at Soo Visual Arts Center in Minneapolis (Culture Cop opens September 8), Carlson has shows coming up at Banfill-Locke Art Center in Fridley and in London at the October Gallery; she will be featured next April at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts, in a two-person show with fellow Ojibwe painter Jim Denomie.

    Carlson, who grew up in International Falls and Hutchinson, is a Grand Portage band member with Anishinaabe (Ojibwe) and Swedish roots and, as of last year, an MFA graduate of the Minneapolis College of Art and Design. She now lives in Minneapolis and keeps a studio in the north loop warehouse district. The work she makes there looks immediate and current; its intensely designed surfaces, thinly painted in glowing colors and sharp black and white, refer to a vivid world, one that is purely of her own making. Yet its images are faithful, in their own impure way, to two traditions.

    Since 2004, she’s been painting a series called Aadizokaan, works that powerfully embody the sacred stories of her Anishinaabe ancestors. The Aadizokaan works will be featured in the exhibition at SooVAC alongside a new series that brings the artist’s Swedish heritage into the mix—and her individual life, as well.

    Carlson’s earlier work took its motive force from the impossible, the catalyst that supplants the ordinary with the fantastic. A wooden stump, for example, becomes the round ass of a demigod. In her new series, the transformations build. Swedish Dala horses—those red-painted carved wooden steeds that seem, here in Minnesota, empty nostalgia—appear, in the context of Carlson’s work, newly energized as sacred creatures (which they once were, back in the old country). Teapots and carnival glass also turn up: These were charged objects in the house of Carlson’s grandmother, carefully tended things that accumulated meaning from their passage through time. And in one new piece, a vibrator makes explicit a strong sexual thread that also lurked in the earlier mythic paintings.

    Carlson studies the Ojibwe language (she describes her skill as “conversational,” but not up to the fluency of elders). The tribe’s traditional words and stories have given her many of the threads of imagery that appear in her paintings, and the amazing subtlety of the language has been an influence, as well: There are thousands of ways to conjugate verbs, and compound words can be breathtakingly precise. She explains this in describing a painting titled Gagiibwaabimo. “It’s actually the image of a dead wolf, gutted, ripped out on the inside. This is Naniboujou’s nephew who has just been killed and eaten by the Mishipiizhiw, the water lynx, a bad guy, so Naniboujou’s going around crying. When I was studying the stories and retranslating them, and I came across this word gagiibwaabimo, which means ‘His eyes are puffed from crying.’ I was so floored by it, that there was one word that described this whole thing, that I wanted to paint an image that went with it.”

    Another characteristic of Anishinaabe language—its robust humor—appears in Binewidgee, a piece whose word means “the ruffed grouse’s asshole.” This word comes up in a traditional storytelling at a climactic point, telling listeners they’ll have to wait for the end of the story the following night. In the painting, the little x that marks the relevant point on the bird’s stern has an exquisite comic force among Carlson’s elegant forms.

    Part of what’s striking about Carlson is how sure she is in her work, how confident in her mastery of an absolutely original and sophisticated style. That may well be because she has been working at it since she was a toddler. Her father still has a small sculpture she made back then, a reindeer created from a stuffed nylon stocking. “He keeps it in this little box,” she said, “my first piece of art.” Even back then, she had confidence that she would be understood and her efforts would be taken seriously; her father, Rudolf Carlson, taught art in schools in International Falls and Hutchinson, and is a painter working with hyperrealism and abstract subversions of hyperrealism.

    “He taught me a lot,” Carlson said of her father, “and now, I guess, my job is to ruin everything. It’s one thing to carry your family’s identity and it’s another to find your own style. There are things that I remember from him, about what colors go together, formal patterns—but the thing is not to just follow.”

    By that she also means not just following herself, either. A brand-new painting, Under the Blanket, included in the SooVAC show, prominently features a blue-willow teapot. Describing its origins, she recalled, “I was up north, on an island, at a sacred site. There were graves where people leave tobacco and things, and there were other kinds of offerings, too: all these sparkly barrettes with horses on them, really girly, and I realized that modern things can be offerings. I’d been making the Naniboujou paintings, really traditional and formal, and I wanted to break it up, and this tea set seemed so much part of the other tradition. It kind of started off being in opposition to the Naniboujou imagery, but then I was speaking to an elder and he said he’d seen the exact same tea set left as an offering at a burial site. I thought, ‘Well, I guess there’s a reason besides all the meanings that are loaded onto this thing in the European world.’ So I did the teapot, sort of Victorian kitschy, as if it was left behind as an offering in a mysterious landscape.”

    Carlson performs the magic trick of using absolutely specific material to create art that is universal. Her family has a long involvement with artifacts from all sorts of cultures, collecting everything from beadwork to teapots to McDonald’s toys to Scandinavian décor. Carlson is a collector, too; she says she particularly likes objects that feature landscapes, which she might portray in her work: “I can have in the painting a place within a place, a world within a world.”

    Given the controversy over the last few years about “authenticity” in native art and writing (most recently, David Treuer offers some blistering thoughts on this in a new book of essays), one wonders if Carlson anticipates a reaction to the multiple worlds she includes in her paintings. Or, more pointedly, whether she, as a person of dual heritage, gets labeled “inauthentic,” not a real Ojibwe artist.

    “I started questioning authenticity, what is ‘real’ native art. A lot of native artists are questioning this, a lot of people are angry,” she said. “It angers me to have someone determine what’s authentic. Damien Hirst can have a herd of artists painting his work for him and no one questions the authenticity of those paintings. But if you’re, say, transgendered and native, then your art isn’t ‘real.’ So I just started playing with it. An elder said to me once, ‘Human beings are ninety percent water, so get over yourself. We’re all water, water is ancient. We all drink it, we share each other’s cups.’ ”

    It’s not blood but paint that Carlson puts her faith in. She believes that pattern has always been a home for spirit, and that artists can make forms and rhythms that spirits recognize. She’s very matter-of-fact, although also a little embarrassed, when talking about it. “There’s a spiritual relation to pattern. There’s something out there, it’s drawn to something of its own nature, like a hummingbird to the color red. To me, patterns are a representation of spirits to themselves … Spirituality is out of fashion now, but if you don’t look at it as a religion, but as a ‘spiritual practice,’ you can get people to talk about it,” she said. “I started thinking about it as a methodology. You say, ‘I had a vision,’ or ‘spirituality,’ and people just shut you off, but if you say, ‘I stop food and water for a while, it increases my dreams,’ any scientist can respect that.”

    Ultimately, though, she’s forging her own path, regardless of where criticism might be coming from: “I look for a way of navigating the world without stepping on too many feet.”

  • A Letter to Nostaglia

    Dear Nostalgia,

    I hate you. And yet, you are brilliant. Because if I ever stop hating you, I will long for the days when I did hate you and then I will hate you all over again.

    The French called you maladie du pays—the disease of home—which, though I hate you, does not do you justice. The Spaniards called you el mal de corazón—a wrongness in the heart—which is a lot closer to what you’re doing to me. You used to be a diagnosable medical condition and I give you mad props for that. During the Civil War alone, eighty-six people died from you.

    You obviously plan to take me next.

    Oh, it’s not my homeland that you seduce me with (though I do sometimes pine for the dollar well drinks at Pat’s Tap in Hawkeye, Iowa). It’s not those stupid 80s shows either, no matter how drolly Mo Rocca can recall the Rubik’s Cube.

    It is when I lie down in my bed next to my wonderful husband, while our boys (ages five and three) sleep snugly in their bunk beds. That’s when you poison me. Because of you, Nostalgia, I am not lulled to sleep with thoughts of my growed-up boys’ future double wedding to the virginal twins of my best friend Sharise. Nor am I taken away to a magical island where my husband and I madly make love and then eat a bucket of nachos.

    No. Not since Jake Hammond moved to town.

    Like a backward-flowing River Styx you have seeped into my nights, Nostalgia. You’ve inked some deal with my Bible-camp boyfriend and Morpheus himself to kill me slowly with my own dream, which isn’t a dream at all, now is it? No! Your weapon is my own memory! It is Jake’s Drakkar Noir-dipped neck, his hands steadily moving toward my ass as we cling to each other during the final song of eighth grade’s “Summer Goodbye” dance!

    “Sweet Child O’ Mine” by Guns N’ Roses, but you already knew that, didn’t you, Nostalgia? Didn’t you?!?!?

    Damn you, Nostalgia! Why won’t you let me appreciate those sweet children of mine today instead of longing for today twenty years from now, if you even allow me to make it to then? Why won’t you let me appreciate “Sweet Child O’ Mine” as a stellar rock ballad when I hear it, instead of ripping me back to one sultry night in 1988 at Camp Ewalu. The night I wore a halter top, the night Jake Hammond first feathered his fingers down my bare spine … Oh God! Make it stop!

    You’ve got me in your sweaty claws now, Nostalgia. Even “Sweet Child O’ Mine” is about you, you, you. Just keep digging in your nails. The doctors said you induced a “wasting of the vital powers” among Civil War soldiers. You are showing no mercy to me.

    If you haven’t killed me by the time you get this, it’s just because I’m not home. I’m parked outside Jake Hammond’s Linden Hills apartment, my eyes of the bluest skies thinking of pain, wondering why it all passed me by.

    You’ll find me. It will only be a matter of time.

    Thanks a lot, asshole.

    Wish I were here,

    Stephanie Wilbur Ash
    Fridley, Minnesota

  • Shout

    It has come to my attention that I’m a messy eater, which wouldn’t be such a problem were I not so often clothed at the scene of the crime. Properly seated at a dining table, kitted out with a shroud-sized napkin, seltzer water, and an array of absorbent paper products, I can confidently churn through the most watery pho with greased shrimp; a steaming heap of soba noodles studded in lively vegetables and oozing garlicky black-bean sauce; piping-hot Thai coffee served in a wide-rimmed cup; and peeled peaches with floorward ambitions. Unfortunately, most eating—and subsequent food-related incidents—do not take place in such a controlled environment.

    Typically, I dine at my desk. By around 8:30 a.m., I’m ready for lunch. I have set up a pastiche of coleslaw, a green salad with pears and potentially explosive blue cheese in a balsamic vinaigrette, a couple of cheese-and-spinach cannelloni floating in marinara, and a ragged, shingle-sized piece of focaccia topped with a snake pit of grilled shallots and onion—all spread out on the five-inch-by-five-inch piece of desktop real estate between my printer and keyboard. The task at hand is undertaken with a plastic demitasse spoon. Pepped up by the repast, I peck at the keyboard, tug at the mouse cord and, against all odds, work is produced. But at a hideous cost.

    According to the immutable laws of physics, only three pieces of cabbage can be transported on a plastic spoon, and yet the coleslaw, in its dressed form, travels in wet glops composed of at least eighteen shreds. It will not abide dividing, like the atom. And I very nearly manage it, but, millimeters from my lips, the glop topples, landing with a heartbreaking splat on my knees. Only upon being raked up does the slaw forego group formation and start acting as eighteen incorrigible free agents. Then an inopportune phone call sets off a phone-cord-to-spoon chain reaction, which catapults the blue cheese with startling force. Fly little cheese, fly. The diaspora extends to the very edges of my office universe and several lost tribes are not discovered until I stand up.

    My final ode to Jackson Pollock is accomplished via intense downward pressure on the titanium-enriched cannelloni, which takes wing and flies like a marinara-soaked arrow to my heart. But first it hits the jacket over my heart, wetly.

    It is, I don’t know, humbling—to view, at the end of each day, such graphic evidence of what a fresser I am. The sheer amount of food, the reckless speed at which it’s consumed, the shocking lack of hand-eye coordination; it’s all there in the darkening splotches that spread, like melanoma, throughout my wardrobe. In fact, this is damn humiliating, but it’s not the end of the world, thanks to my twenty-four-ounce bottle of Shout Ultra Gel with the plastic-brush-applicator top.

    I could go on at length by listing stuff I’ve banished with Shout, but here are some of the highlights: 10W40 sauce from Huong Sen, blackberry jam, neck grease, Seven Seas salad dressing, road dirt, and black rubber tire marks on some beloved lilac peau de soie pumps (don’t ask). Once—and here’s a testimonial that should be featured on Shout bottles—I purchased a white, perfectly filthy, one-hundred-percent cashmere coat for just $7.99 at Savers. I suspected some of the stains were bodily in origin, but what I feared even more was the synergy between such bodily fluids and mysterious commercial dry-cleaning toxins. With so little to lose, I applied Shout liberally, per the directions, loaded the whole unstable mass into the washing machine on cold/delicate, and am now rocking a Jackie O. look that is out of this world.