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  • Anthony Bukoski

    University of Wisconsin English professor Bukoski grew up—and still lives—in the Polish community of east-side Superior, Wisconsin. It’s been the setting for several books of short stories that form a kaleidoscopic portrait of Bukoski’s community, like Yoknapatawpha on the Gitchee Gummee. The latest, Time Between Trains, contains thirteen new tales that show Superior the way his people see it. In the title story, a lonely railroad inspector, the only Jewish man in town, strikes up an unlikely friendship with an isolated widow who lives near the tracks. “Closing Time” takes us through a bad night in the career of the well-meaning but overbearing accordion player at the local bar. And Bukoski, a Vietnam veteran, gives us what we can only imagine is a thinly disguised version of himself in younger days, in three stories about a nineteen-year-old corporal named Thaddeus, whom we first meet as he is stumbling drunk around town, unwilling to admit he’s terrified of going to war and poignantly unaware that he’s walking around for one last look at the town he might never see again. Bukoski has a deep well of empathy for his characters and does a nice job drawing out their emotions. If we could change one thing, it’d be his occasional bouts of clonking prose style.
    Ruminator, 1648 Grand Ave., St. Paul,
    (651) 699-0587, ruminator.com

  • Is 3M 2SEXY4U?

    Minnesota’s most venerable company landed one of the biggest private contracts ever awarded by the Chinese government. And promptly lost it, because of—what else?—sex and cars.

    The Orient promises untold riches. And yet for centuries those riches have remained untold. From Marco Polo to AOL, Queen Victoria to General Motors, the history of foreign investment in China is undistinguished, occasionally despicable, and mostly ruinous. But that’s never stopped anyone. In the early 1980s, as China began to open its markets to foreign investment, a new generation of corporate Marco Polos decided it was time, once again, to conquer the Orient.

    Minnesota’s 3M led the charge.

    In 1984, 3M became the first foreign corporation granted a license to operate on the mainland without a Chinese partner. It was a significant honor, and that’s what it remained for a long time: 3M maintained an office—or presence, as they like to say—that generated almost nothing. Twenty years later, 3M China’s Shanghai manufacturing facilities and seven national service centers produce dynamic growth rates and glowing press releases. Whether they produce profits is another matter, and one not revealed in the company’s quarterly earnings statements or filings with the SEC. Nevertheless, the company insists that it is in China for the long-term, and its long experience in the country is one of its primary marketing tools. “With ten years of business savvy to date,” the company claimed as early as 1995, “3M China is as knowledgeable as any in delivering its global technology.”

    In June 2002, as part of his celebrated trade mission to China, Gov. Jesse Ventura visited 3M (3M China spokesman Kelvin Li fondly recalls the governor as the “King of Wrestling”). The drop-in was typical for an official visit: drums, dragons, a brief tour, and the announcement of a large deal. In this case, Governor Ventura was pleased to declare that 3M would be providing “digital license plate technology” to China’s Ministry of Public Safety. Kenneth Yu, managing director of 3M China and the China Region, told reporters that the deal could be worth more than $100 million over several years. He also told a Minnesota Public Radio reporter that Ventura didn’t deserve much credit for the transaction: “All the deals you see that are signed in any trade mission didn’t happen just because the trade mission is over there, you know.” Yu wanted the media to know that 3M had been working on the project long before Ventura crossed the Pacific.

    Kenneth Yu’s pride would be tested. Less than three months later, the Chinese government had placed the deal “on hold.” Meanwhile Yu was revising himself, bluntly telling The Rake that “It was never a deal.” Deal or not, the suspension was covered in every major Chinese newspaper (it has never been covered in Minnesota’s business press, including the Star Tribune, despite that same paper’s enthused coverage of the original announcement). Though 3M was never mentioned in those stories, it is widely known in China’s foreign-invested business community that 3M let loose blatant sexual innuendo on the streets of Beijing, thus ending the program.

    In the year since the suspension, the tale of how 3M botched a $100 million deal in ten days has taken on near-mythic status in China’s foreign business community. Some recount it for laughs and others for consolation. In free-market China, failure is more rule than exception for large corporations. Even the biggest players are capable of doing something breathtakingly stupid. In spite of its extensive China experience, 3M Corporation proved it.

    Over the past decade, China has become the fastest-growing automobile market in the world. In the first half of 2003 alone, passenger car sales in China increased by eighty-five percent. By the end of the year they’ll certainly exceed the record 1.2 million units sold in 2002. Predictably, the growth in private car ownership has stressed public resources. Roads are overwhelmed by traffic; cities are choked with exhaust. More prosaically, China’s local governments are running out of license plate numbers.

  • The Best American Magazine Writing 2003

    In the publishing biz, excellence awards are often a travesty. If you win one, you’re brilliant. If you don’t, the judges are idiots. Just so, it’s gratifying to know that the American Society of Magazine Editors each year publishes a selection of what they consider the best magazine journalism of the previous year. We consider it a real service, and an exercise in transparency. If you browsed past them in their glossy form, here are Ian Frazier’s amazing story for Outside about icebergs and global warming; Michael Paterniti’s riveting exposé, in GQ, of a Nazi German book of anatomy illustrations; and Gary Smith’s dramatic reconstruction for Sports Illustrated of the rise and fall of George O’Leary, the Notre Dame football coach whose creative approach to résumé padding cost him his job (though of course he’s landed on his feet with the Minnesota Vikings.) Oddly, the best American magazine writing of the year does not include Top Doctors, Super Lawyers, or even a seafood lover’s guide to the Twin Cities, but you saved those issues, right?

  • Mario Vargas Llosa, The Way to Paradise

    If you don’t like the society you live in, you can either try to change it or leave. In 1891, the painter Paul Gauguin left, fleeing bourgeois France for an existence filled with art and unashamed sensuality in Tahiti. In 1844, his grandmother Florita had embarked on a lifelong career of ardent political activism for workers’ rights and female equality. Vargas Llosa, the Peruvian grandmaster of letters, alternates chapter by chapter between these two divergent yet resonating lives, which somehow shared a common goal—building heaven here on Earth—if not much else. It’s a compelling pair of character studies, and we can’t help imagining that there’s a glimpse into what makes Vargas Llosa himself tick. His own attempts to combine careers as a civic leader and an artist have been disappointments at best; a failed 1989 campaign for the Peruvian presidency made him angrily declare that “literature and politics are mutually exclusive.” Sadly, he may be right.

  • Peter Carey, My Life as a Fake

    Australian novelist Carey’s The True History of the Kelly Gang was an inventive explosion of the myth of outlaw national hero Ned Kelly. He continues pulling at the loose, frayed edges of legend in Fake, a tale that plays off a real-life scandalous Aussie literary hoax. Carey’s con artist, Chubb, forges the life’s work of a fictitious working-class poet named Bob McCorkle to humiliate a rival. But things go terribly wrong. The rival winds up dead, and then … McCorkle shows up. Conjured out of thin air, apparently, by some unknowing magic of Chubb’s. He’s a tough, leathery creature who makes growly threats out of lines like “he’d never tangled with a poet before.” And he’s quite irritated with his creator. It’s a thematic shift not unlike what Charlie Kaufman did in the last act of the film Adaptation—suddenly, Carey’s story is a weird echo of Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein and an exploration of self-destruction and literary invention. Like Adaptation, Fake loses punch by never resolving the story it started telling, and that lack of cohesiveness makes the book feel about fifty pages overlong. Still, it’s an engaging and recommended read.

  • Tears of a Clone

    All in all, I’m pretty happy with the procedure. What they don’t tell you is that it’s basically having a kid, even though the kid is you. They all make it out to be a “perfect genetic copy,” they get all lathered about “genomic imprinting.” Yeah, but it’s a DNA snapshot of me in a sagging diaper. Me with a relentless stream of snot coagulating around my nostrils. Me at two years old. The terrible twos. With all due respect, I’m cute, but not that useful at this age. So far, the only “bioethics” issue has been whether I should spank me or not.

    If I’d stopped to think about it, it would have made sense. Did I expect a mid-level manager in an oxford to jump out of the test tube? Now, of course, I realize I can’t even use the little guy as an organ donor. His tiny liver couldn’t handle a single four-day weekend in my body. God knows, his kidneys and bladder work beautifully—too beautifully for my worn-out valves and distended sphincters and whatnot.

    There are many aspects of childhood that I am not keen to relive. It is irritating to have people mistake me for a girl again. I will not put one of those pink bows on my bald head just to appease the gender-obsessed. Strained beets have, in the mists of time, lost whatever appeal they once held for me. I am thankful that I will not have to re-endure Barry Goldwater; but that’s cold comfort with chicken pox and mumps to look forward to again.

    The other day, I stretched the rules of “bring your son to work day” a little bit. It was a mistake. Jennifer in accounting said I did not look like me. “He must take after his mother,” she said. “That must be where he got those pretty blue eyes. Or maybe it was the milkman!” she tittered. I did not point out that my toddler’s corneas would be a perfect match for mine, if it came down to that.

    My friend Ted says I indulge the boy. Well, duh. He’s not my son, he’s not my brother. He’s me! Imagine my delight at getting to stay up as late as I want the second time around. Imagine the unvarnished joy I get riding in my own lap, getting to steer the Camry on designated residential streets. True, I have caved and bought myself a car seat and a bike helmet, but this is just to keep the neighbors off my back. “This is not actually my child,” is an argument I’ve found to be problematic.

    There are many advantages and efficiencies. When my younger self starts school, for example, there will be no need for school pictures. They would just be redundant. I’m sure I have most grades tucked away in a shoe box somewhere. While I didn’t have the foresight to hold on to all my baby clothes, I have started to stockpile my old double-vented suits and wingtips.

    One might think not having a unique identity would be a problem, but look at it this way: The little guy will never need to apply for a social security number or a driver’s license. On the other hand, I don’t suppose I can claim myself as a dependent.

    As a single working father of a clone, I find that people are sympathetic. The ladies at my daycare think it’s cute the way I speak to myself. “Time to change my diaper!” always brings a smile. “Boy, I’m smelling a little ripe!” And they think it’s charming that we have the same name—though of course he’s “the second.”

    If I had it to do over again, well, I guess I’d do it again and again and again. In a sense, no matter how many times I replicate my DNA, I’ll still be an only child, and that’s pretty cool. I’d hate to be a burden to my family. As I get older, I intend to take care of myself. An army of one.

  • Will Steger: The Rakish Interview

    You’re the greatest living explorer, standing shoulder to shoulder with Jacques Cousteau, Robert Peary, and Amelia Earhardt. Now you’re heading back to the Arctic.

    I see dead deer everywhere, their yawning red abdomens, stiffening legs, their black eyes. It’s one of the hazards of driving around Ely on opening weekend. I went literally to the end of the road in northern Minnesota, to the homestead of Will Steger, and I found hundreds of men already there, in the woods, in blaze orange. With high-powered rifles.

    An outdoorsy guy from the city starts to develop a neurotic view of wilderness, that it’s growing too scarce, that the cities are too crowded and they’re spilling over. An outdoorsy guy from the Range laughs and says relax. You can go days—weeks—without seeing another soul up here. It’s still possible to get lost in this world. Even with GPS and cell phones and Gore-tex, nature is a dangerous thing. Somehow that’s reassuring.

    Still, everyone around here knows where Will lives. He is a legend and a local hero, even if he is a bit of a lefty and a treehugger. Even the rednecks can appreciate what Steger has done in his decorated career as an arctic explorer. Later, sitting with Steger in the Ely steakhouse among quietly gawking admirers and spoiling roughnecks alike, I am not surprised to learn that Steger has never been in a fistfight in the forty years since he moved to Ely from Minneapolis. He is not surprised to hear me ask it.

    There is no other way to describe Will Steger than to say he is a sort of self-taught Zen master. His life in the harshest climates seems to have softened his soul like the silkiest chamois from deer hide. He is a modest and compassionate man, a natural leader with brilliantly disguised management skills and a mind for a million details. And somehow he seems not to have aged in his twenty-year career as a professional explorer. The skin on his face is taut, the crow’s-feet around his eyes have been there since his thirties, his body is lithe and powerful.

    Steger shuffles around his property in an unspeakably filthy mountaineering jacket, his long hair feathering into a kind of salt-and-pepper halo. Iron Will has been unofficially retired from exploration since 1997, when he aborted a solo trek that would have taken him from the North Pole to Ellesmere Island, towing and paddling a kayak sledge. After the rescue ship was called, he told himself he’d never return to the Pole. He’s been hanging out on his property ever since. Until now.

    And what a property it is. Today, it stretches to three hundred acres and includes numerous cabins, a sauna, a boathouse, a lodge, a guesthouse, and countless barns and shops. It is, as they say, entirely off the grid. Solar panels and wood stoves provide for the most quotidian needs. But there are numerous gasoline-powered generators, and a recently installed satellite uplink for serious Internet access available for moments like this—when the homestead is buzzing with volunteers, staffers, and expedition members. In a sense, this is precisely what this place was built for. What the man himself was built for.

    Sitting in the middle, at the highest point of Steger’s rolling, rocky property, is “The Castle.” It is a Gothic, Cinderella edifice built with raw timber, glass, and granite, with flying buttresses, balconies, cupolas, and a riot of copper-plated dormers. The physical reality of this building—so nearly complete, in its twentieth year—goads Steger. It represents the hard reality of a dream he’s had since his first polar expedition in 1986: To not only go into the wide open spaces and conquer them, but to bring people of the world together. Never has that vision and mission felt more focused than now. As an educator, scientist, explorer, and writer, Steger is absolutely convinced of the reality of global warming. He’s just as convinced that a quick and effective response is not merely possible; it’s the only morally responsible thing to do.

    Last year at this time, Steger was feeling restless. He’d written four books, he occasionally lectured, but he pretty much lived in isolation at the end of the road. He’d seen the Internet coming for years, and saw the brilliant possibilities it offered. At the same time, he was increasingly disturbed by global warming, now an established fact that only the most stubborn and selfish politicians deny.

    Meanwhile, the growing field of adventure education intrigued him. In 1999, Steger was approached by Dr. Aaron Doering, an education professional at the University of Minnesota who specializes in information systems. At the same time, Paul Pregont and Mille Porsild were in touch. Down in Grand Marais, they’d founded NOMADS and PolarHusky.com, an online education program connected to their dogsled expeditions. The four discussed the possibility of a new expedition. But funding was scarce. They came close to landing a major sponsorship from Coca-Cola, but it all fell apart after September 11th. By spring of 2002, it looked like a bust.

    Then last December, Steger was in Minneapolis for the holidays when he accidentally bumped into another legend of exploration, the trans-global cyclist Dan Buettner. Their brief conversation was the final, decisive push Steger needed to go ahead—with or without the funding in place. He realized his restlessness of the previous year had had a purpose. On a personal level, he wanted to get back on the ice and into the headspace of a long arctic expedition. On a professional level, he wanted to prove what could be done with all the modern tools of adventure education.

    Arctic Transect is a massive educational undertaking—as much an epic classroom curriculum as a dogsled adventure. An estimated ten million children from kindergarten to twelfth grade will be tuning in on the Web. This kind of approach is not new. NOMADS has been doing it with dogsleds since 1999. Ann Bancroft and Liv Arnesen had online components on their last two expeditions. Dan Buettner’s most recent exploits have been webcast through ClassroomConnect.com. In fact, way back in the dark ages of 1997, Steger himself had one of the earliest satellite uplinks to the Internet on his solo North Pole trip.

    Arctic Transect will travel 3,000 miles through five communities in the Canadian territory of Nunavut. The expedition leaves Yellowknife on December 15 and arrives next spring at Pangnirtung, Nunavut, on the Arctic Ocean—with any luck, before the ice begins to break up. Transect’s mission is to show how connectivity is changing our world—both for better and for worse. But the real goal is not the Arctic Ocean before the ice breaks up. It is human understanding before global breakup.

  • What’s a “Transect”?

    Mille Porsild agrees that the life of an explorer can seem awfully selfish. “You think about it all the time, leaving your loved ones behind,” she says. Most of Porsild’s immediate family is halfway around the world in her native Denmark. But some of them are right here: Her husband Paul Pregont and, arguably the most important part of the team, their thirty sled dogs. Like most modern explorers, Porsild and Pregont wrestle all the time with balancing a spiritual love of wide open (empty) spaces with a professional calling to educate and interact. The trick, of course, is finding a way to make a living doing both. To that end, they founded an online adventure education program called NOMADS.

    In the past, explorers simply found someone with deep pockets to sponsor their treks. But in the modern age, especially as sponsorships have dried up along with record-book opportunities, they often fund their projects through teaching, lecturing, writing, or some other form of motivational soapboxing. Many though, like Porsild, Pregont, and Steger, are actually teachers by training and temperament. Ironically, they go into the wild specifically to connect with students around the globe—the children at the other end of the satellite uplink.

    In fact, the expedition itself may be the easy part, compared with the heavy burden of Transect’s educational mission. The expedition has an education director. He is Dr. Aaron Doering, a University of Minnesota expert on instructional systems. Doering is more educator than adventurer—this will be his first major expedition. But he lends real brainpower and technical skill to the team. He and Pregont will manage all the technical hardware and software that allows the team to connect, through Porsild’s curriculum, with millions of schoolchildren who will follow the expedition on the Web.

    The team has two main missions—one educational, the other scientific. In addition to the extensive curriculum in social studies and geography, they’ll conduct some hard science designed to confirm the reality of global warming and climate change. “We’re actually working with NASA to ground-truth the information they have about snow depths and UV radiation,” says Dr. Doering. He explains that some recalcitrant politicians still claim global warming is speculative, because no one has taken measurements on the ground in these remote locations. This expedition will help put to rest this insidious form of denial.

    There are two other members of the team. Hugh Dale-Harris is a Canadian explorer and educator with much experience in the Nunavut region. The youngest member of the team is Eric Dayton, a gifted young adventurer who has partnered with Steger many times in the past. Dayton’s father, Sen. Mark Dayton, has been a longtime friend, supporter, and tent-mate of Steger’s. The three have made numerous trips together, including a memorable trek in Alaska’s Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. The younger Dayton graduated this year from Williams College and has already shown signs of political mettle. Having spent a season working for the Natural Resources Defense Council, he recently made a few phone calls and secured the final round of funding for Transect—money the expedition desperately needed to make it back next spring. “It was the first time I’ve had a team member pick up the phone and get funding like that!” says Steger. “He’s an amazing young man.”

  • Will Steger’s Greatest Hits

    1944
    Will Steger born and raised in Richfield, the second of eight children

    1959
    Steger, a freshman at Benilde, buys a motorboat and, with his brother, drives it down the Missippippi–and back

    1963
    Steger devises a kayak trek to the headwaters of the Yukon River. It involves a long portage—over the Rocky Mountains

    1967
    Steger graduates from St. Thomas with a degree in geology

    1970
    Steger moves permanently to his Ely property and teaches outdoor skills

    1982
    Steger makes his first major dogsled expedition in northern Canada

    1986
    In his first professional expedition, Steger leads the first dogsled team ever to reach the North Pole

    1988
    Traverse of Greenland is the longest dogsled expedition in history

    1989
    The Traverse of Antarctica is the first dogsled team ever in Antarctica

    1997
    Steger’s last polar expedition—solo from North Pole to Ellesmere Island—is aborted

    2003
    Arctic Transect

    Follow the new expedition at www.PolarHusky.com

  • Too Deep, Too Dark, Too Cold

    The gales of November still rage with controversy and treachery, as shipwrecks and their grisly cargo become the hot new tourist attraction.

    A beacon of light shines out from the tip of an eighty-mile stretch of shoreline known as Lake Superior’s Shipwreck Coast. It shines from the lighthouse at Whitefish Point, Michigan, over an area known as the Graveyard of Ships. It’s earned this moniker because more vessels have been lost there than in any other part of Lake Superior. In the graveyard, waves of biblical proportions are whipped up by roaring northwest winds carrying the power they’ve amassed over 160 miles of open water. Raging in from all directions, these murderous waves crash back from the shores with even greater ferocity. They are said to strike harder and more often than any saltwater wave. Brutal as hurricanes, but stealthier, these storms often catch sailors by surprise. Hundreds of ships, including the Edmund Fitzgerald, lie on the bottom of this bay and its vicinity. The Fitzgerald’s bell, recovered and restored, is now displayed at the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum at Whitefish Point. And as the lore goes, the beacon at Whitefish Point has shone unfailingly for nearly a century and a half, except for the night when the Mighty Fitz went down.

    When my son was very small, he was mesmerized by water and fire. Among his first words were “boat” and “candle.” By the age of four, he had developed a fierce interest in all manner of watercraft, disasters, and horrible combinations of the two—in particular, the sinking of the Titanic.


    With my perhaps misguided support, my son’s fervor soon directed him to tragedies closer to home, and by the time he was five or six, he could do a crackerjack imitation of Fred Wolff, narrator of our worn-out copy of the cassette tape Stories of Lake Superior Shipwrecks, Volume I. Wolff, a professor emeritus at the University of Minnesota-Duluth, bears the sort of thick Minnesota accent you find only in the far north. On many a long drive during those sleep-deprived years, I relied on gas-station coffee to keep from being lulled blissfully to sleep at the wheel by the familiar drone of Wolff’s stories. My son, however, listened on the edge of his seat. What is it about shipwrecks that called so powerfully to this little boy? What is it about wrecks that pulls at him still, pulls at us all, in one way or another?

    Outside, late autumn rain and wind are ripping wet leaves from the trees in great batches, plastering them against the windshields of parked cars and onto the blackened city streets. Rivers of water rush down the gutters toward the sewer drains, begging to be dammed and diverted by schoolchildren in yellow slickers whose mothers watch anxiously from picture windows as October shudders to an end. It’s a nearly perfect backdrop for an enduring sea tale about a terrible witch and her legacy of destruction: the Witch of November, the scourge of our inland seas, who swallows ships whole, steals lives, and strands mourners helpless on the shore.

    From the SS Edmund Fitzgerald (whose November 10, 1975 sinking was made famous the world over by Gordon Lightfoot’s ballad), to the twenty ships and 250 lives lost in the “Big Blow” of November 1913, to the tragic wreck of the Daniel J. Morrell on November 29, 1966, which killed all but one man, left shivering in his shorts and pea coat, the Great Lakes have claimed as many as ten thousand ships and more than thirty thousand lives since the wreck of LaSalle’s Griffon in 1679. Encrypted in the sodden debris of these disasters is the story of our lives, literal and metaphorical, and for that we keep coming back to search.

    Most of us respond to the alluring and tragic call of the depths by diving only about as deep as the latest news accounts of recent underwater archaeological discoveries, or by renting Titanic. But a brazen and growing subculture of hardy souls respond more daringly, by plunging into the murky waters to explore the treasure troves of history firsthand. The intrepid few who love to dive have a remarkable single-mindedness for exploration and adventure. Some are brave—or crazy—enough to take on the frigid waters of Lake Superior. A few have even gone 556 feet below the surface of Superior to visit the final resting ground of the twenty-nine crewmen who lost their lives on the Edmund Fitzgerald, also known as the Queen of the Great Lakes, the Pride of the American Flag, the Mighty Fitz, the Titanic of the Great Lakes, and, posthumously, the most famous Great Lakes shipwreck of all time.

    Terrence Tysall is a Florida-based professional diver and instructor, and the founder of the Cambrian Foundation, which is dedicated to undersea research, preservation, and exploration. He’s been diving since the age of eight and has seen hundreds of wreck sites, including that of the Edmund Fitzgerald. The expedition to the Fitz was the brainchild of a Chicagoan named Mike Zee, who approached Tysall in the mid 1990s with the notion of conducting a scuba dive to the famous wreck. Although the site had been explored via submarine by a handful of others—including Jacques Cousteau’s son, Jean-Michel, in 1980—no one had ever attempted to take on the intense pressure and cold with just a dry suit and air tanks. “Too deep, too dark, too cold,” explained Tysall. But his dual love of history and the sea compelled him to pursue the proposal, and, in 1995, he and his companions became the first ever to scuba dive to the Edmund Fitzgerald. “It turned out to be my deepest dive,” Tysall said. “In fact, I think it’s still the deepest wreck dive by free-swimming scuba divers—but I’m not a big record guy. I think records cheapen things sometimes.” According to Sean Ley of the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum in Sault Sainte Marie, Michigan, Tysall’s ’95 dive to the Fitzgerald was the first and the last to date. “It seems that everyone is respecting the wishes of the families,” said Ley, alluding to the wreck’s status as an underwater gravesite.