I hadn’t smoked pot in more than a year, but why not? I’d just packed up and dragged everything I own 1,700 miles from Minneapolis to Seattle. Quite a daring move. I was feeling like Lewis and Clark in one, Amelia Earhart, a pirate even. A little marijuana? Peee-shaw. I huffed a huge drag. Unfortunately for me, the dope in Seattle is nothing like the dope in Minneapolis. I found myself embarking upon one of those harrowing journeys of acute self-examination.
Seattle sits just two hours from the border of British Columbia, where some of the most potent marijuana in the world is grown indoors with wicked scientific precision. “B.C. Bud,” as it’s known in these parts, shimmers with purple resin crystals and boasts a punch twice as lethal as that of competing varieties from northern California and Oregon, six times that of common Colombian and Mexican imports. The pot from our unassuming, aw-shucks neighbors to the north contains 30 percent THC, while bud from Mexico contains somewhere around 5. It’s like a revenge or something.
Penalties in Canada are low. Enforcement is laughable. One unit of the B.C. drug squad drives around in a recycled van with duct tape over whatever logo was once on its side. And despite America’s most hearty efforts, smuggling across the border (where price and demand immediately skyrocket) is pretty easy. This part of the world has too much water, too many islands, miles of undeveloped wilderness. The stuff comes across in duffel bags, trucks, car trunks, on snowmobiles and dog sleds, by boat, sea kayak, and jet ski.
The buzz felt great for the first half hour. Real jokey. I noted sharp ironies, fielded puns of modest hilarity, all the while looking into everything. Music sounded extra melodic. Apples with peanut butter tasted like ambrosia. This is so much better than drinking, I thought. On pot you just sit around munching and contemplating beauty. You don’t hang out the car window whacking mailboxes with a broom handle. I flipped through my CDs and came up with the Replacements’ Pleased to Meet Me.
The music from home played. “Alex Chilton,” “Shooting Dirty Pool,” “Skyway.” I perched on a plaid, garage-sale rocker and stared out the window. It had rained the day before. The sky was gray, streaked with hopeful wisps of almost–blue. I considered Seattle’s soggy climate, its long darknesses and lush, overgrown greenery. Moss clumps stuck to roofing like cheese. Frogs croaking in the fog. The culture here is centrifugal, remote, the best effort from the last outpost. Ideas don’t escape, they only spin round and round beneath thick cloud cover. People here don’t have children. They don’t go to church. They don’t protest injustice. They read books, drink espresso, make art, cut their bangs too short, and smoke super-bionic pot. Craziness like seeds in fertile ground.
What am I doing here? Suddenly, with broiling romanticism, I longed for Leinenkugel’s, Liquor Lyle’s, and Dulano’s Pizza. Unironic institutions. How many people did I know in Seattle anyway? Three? Four? I was severely out of context. I’d abandoned friends I’d known since high school. With a hearty laugh, I’d gone. Off to find a new life. Now I felt like a woman lost. I thought, maybe who you are isn’t really up to your head and heart, but the collection of people, places, and things that surround you. The liquor store where you first bought beer underage. The girlfriend who fell off the dock in her lawnchair, who comforted while you bawled over some lousy guy. And what about mom? She was getting on in years. Smoked like a chimney. I hadn’t spent enough quality time with her. I pictured myself touching down at Minneapolis-St. Paul International just as the undertaker arranged roses around her casket. My eyes stung, urging tears. I’d be the stranger with all the regrets.
Then I heard it, the deep timbre of a boat horn wafting up the hill from the Sound. It shook my insides like a passionate kiss. You know, I thought, there is a charm to this place. I began to laugh. The creeping, tentacled psychosis withdrew. The black veil flipped up like a window shade. Back to Lewis and Clark and all that.
Recently, I attended a Paul Westerberg in-store performance at a Seattle record store, his first show in six years. I stood with 600 or so other fans as he played songs from his new album, Stereo. “No day is safe from thoughts of you leaving. Marriage License. I can’t help thinking. It’s all for nothing. You’re so unholy. Up in the stars now, she’s getting lonely.” It sounded like the old stuff. Paul looked handsome. He felt like home. I peered about the room, picking out the Minnesotans by their unconcerned demeanors. By their bangs of normal length. Rugged individualists. Smokers of mild pot.