Lucia’s Bakery & Take Home has gotten over-the-top rave reviews from the beginning. But at the risk of provoking diehard fans, I have to say I had some iffy experiences when it first opened. The counter service was disorganized, with a young, uncertain, sometimes surly staff. The flower shop seemed out of place and never took off. Even given the superior quality, prices seemed a tad high.
Since then, everything has smoothed out in true Lucia style. But I’ve always been perplexed about the fact that no one else took note of the debut’s flaws. When I mention this to Annamarie, she nods. “The opening was rocky, I agree. Our process wasn’t in place. Also, I’d always done all the baking myself but suddenly I had three people to tell what to do. There was a period where I just had to let things go.”
“And about the media?” I ask. She shrugs. “Lucia gets nothing but good press, which she deserves. But it’s strange that there are a lot of other people who don’t get any. May Day Café, for instance. Their croissants far surpass ours—they’re flaky and perfect—but no one knows because everyone writes about the croissants at Lucia’s and none of the reviewers go over to Powderhorn.”
Humility aside, Annamarie does make some of the best pies, ice creams, and crème brulées in town. She follows Lucia’s philosophy, using fresh, seasonal ingredients, and she believes, more than anything, in simplicity: Fruit, good chocolate, basic sweet rolls and breads.
“I don’t like architectural desserts,” she says, shaking her head. “So many times in fancy restaurants I’m served some complex dessert and all I can think is, ‘I’d rather have a piece of peach pie.’”
“She does make the best pie,” Karl adds, checking his watch. “And now that I’m working days, we get to have supper together nearly every night.”
Shortly after this, they leave to return to their daughters and the home where Karl tells me there are pheasants and ducks in the backyard. They walk down the street companionably, not holding hands but brushing each other from time to time. When Karl stops to take out his sunglasses, she waits.
RECIPES:
Chocolate Crème Brulée
4 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup sugar
12 oz. Scharffenberger chocolate, chopped fine
8 egg yolks
Heat cream in saucepan until very hot, but not boiling. Remove pan from heat and add chocolate and sugar. Let pan sit for 3 or 4 minutes, then whisk until chocolate is fully incorporated. Whisk chocolate into egg yolks. Pour mixture into 8 ramekins and place in pan and fill pan with very hot water to reach halfway up the side of the ramekins. Bake in 325 oven for 20-25 minutes until center of custard moves slightly when ramekin is shaken gently. Refrigerate at least 2-3 hours and up to 3 days. Caramelize tops of brulées with coarse sugar and a propane torch or broiler. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to set sugar.
Cowboy Cookies
1 cup salted butter
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp. vanilla
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. baking powder
2 cups quick, not instant, oats
1 12 oz. pkg. chocolate chips
Cream butter and sugars together. Stir in eggs and vanilla. Add flour, baking powder and soda, salt, and oatmeal all together. When halfway mixed in, add chocolate chips. Bake at 375 degrees for 12-15 minutes. Makes about 30-36 2-inch diameter cookies.
Peach Rhubarb Pie
Pie Dough
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp. sugar
1/2 tsp. salt
8 oz. salted butter, cold, cut into 1/2" cubes
1/4 cup to 1/2 cup cold water
Combine flour, sugar, and salt. Add butter and cut into flour with mixer or pastry blender. Add 1/4 cup water. Mix until dough comes together, adding 1 tablespoon of water at a time as necessary. Wrap dough in plastic and refrigerate at least 2 hours or up to two days before rolling or freezing.
Filling
6 medium peaches, ripe but not too soft, unpeeled and cut into 1/2" pieces
1 1/2 pounds rhubarb, cut into 3/4" pieces
6 tbsp. tapioca starch or ground small tapioca pearls
1 1/4 cups sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
Roll 2/3 of pie dough to fit a 9" pie pan. Combine filling ingredients, mix, and put into pie shell. Roll pie top. Cover pie, and flute edges. Cut three or four vents in the top. Bake 400 degrees for 20 minutes. Lower oven temperature to 350 degrees and continue baking for an additional 45-50 minutes until juices are thickened slightly and bubbling.
Adapted from Baking with Jim Dodge.