Tag: travel

  • Day 1 Begins

    After getting settled into the "Swilly Suite" and meeting up with the girls, we all decided that we should check out and meet the other guests at the Hyatt.

    A few lobster rolls, sparkling water—and, yes, white wine—later, it was
    clear that Aspen was not just going to be any old vacation; it was a place in which I felt (for the first time in a long time) completely comfortable — no BS, just a place where I could wear the PJ’s from the outlet (in public), have good food and drinks with people who were (like me) not trying to impress anyone, and most important, learn to "vacation" and trust good friends again.

    The first night was nothing short of amazing: great food, a lot of (inside) Jewish jokes
    on the left bed, and sleep on the right bed.

    Day 1 begins.

  • "Melly" does Colorado 🙂 JAP Style

    When my husband and I were asked to go on vacation to Colorado as a guest of our good friends the Swillers, how could we say no?

    Last week was filled with good memories and a lot of REALITY. After landing in Denver with the guys, we still had a three hour drive

    to Aspen ahead of us. Swiller was the designated driver

    of the upgraded rental car, an Escalade. I guess Swilly figured that,

    since I (the JAPrincess of the bunch) was on board, it would be important to have

    a vehicle that gave me and the guys some room.

    We all were getting along great until Cleveland Mike said, "Hey, there’s an outlet store

    over there."

    Big mistake, Mike, to tell the one chick on board that there was a shopping mall calling

    her name — especially when the clothes she was wearing were binding and uncomfortable. "I promise you guys that I only need five minutes at the Polo Outlet Store."

    Forty-two minutes later I was running around some random downtown area in Colorado

    looking for the Escalade with my JAPrinces.

    When I finally found them, I got "the look" of complete disgust.

    "What the hell happened to the five minutes? And your cell phone keeps

    ringing!"

    "Sorry, guys, but the customer service (men and woman) were a little bit

    confused by my presence and rotating wardrobe."

    Back in the car, I in my newly purchased Car Clothes, we resumed our journey to Aspen, Colorado.

    Bobby Swiller, who I have known since I was a very little Melly, was the perfect

    driver and information guy.

    Everything I needed to know about Colorado, from the minute we landed in Denver until the time we pulled up to Aspen, Bobby knew.

    It was the perfect long drive, except for the two-and-a-half mile Eisenhower tunnel, where

    I tried to hold my breath and make wishes without passing out. FYI: two of the three wishes

    came through on my trip. The family is happy and healthy. (Yea, yea… don’t share your

    wishes. But at this point, too late.)

    We arrived at our home away from home, the Grand Hyatt in downtown Aspen (guests of Bobby and Missy Swiller). The accommodations were perfect. Howard and I had our

    own room with two queen sized beds (you do the math on that deal) and a bathroom with

    products by Portico Spa. The first thing I did was jump into a bath filled with Eucalyptus

    essential oils and drown out the smell of Cleveland Mike, Swilly Willy, and Howie Hankie.

    I felt like such a guy that it felt good to see the girls after my bath.

    We were all together with our significant others and on our way to a fun-filled five days

    of Aspen, Colorado.

    Part two comes tomorrow.

    —Melly

  • Travels with Mel

    Now that I
    have been in Scotland for a bit I have begun to notice the great shadow
    the infamous creator of Braveheart still casts over this hilly
    northern country. If you venture into any bargain store in Edinburgh
    or Glasgow you will find many bric-a-bracs aimed at spend-happy tourists. These items range from the relatively funny "kilt beach towel" to
    the aggravating "William Wallace doll." Now, there’s nothing
    wrong with the historical figure of William Wallace. The man heroically
    stood against the English in order to defend Scottish independence,
    and this I can respect. And I really can’t judge the people
    who are making money from the dolls themselves; far be it for me to
    begrudge anybody the right to strike gold by abusing national symbols.

    No, the William
    Wallace doll is an abomination because it is just a little version of
    that big schmuck, Mel Gibson. It is a vivid rendering, capturing
    accurately even the most Jew-hating contours of the man’s face (from
    an era before the expert ironist decided to grow a strange Abrahamic
    beard). I know Braveheart is one of the most profitable
    things that has happened to Scotland since whisky became the local manna,
    but when you hold a lil’ Mel in your hands you do not want to fight
    for your freedom, you just feel sorry for all the civilizations Mel
    Gibson has ripped off and made a mockery of (e.g. Scots, Mayans, ancient
    Israelites, and counting).

    I could forgive
    this if it were a phenomenon confined to shops that sell inflatable
    heart-shaped mattresses and "I’m not as think as you drunk I am"
    t-shirts, but unfortunately Mel Gibson has managed to worm his way into
    actual history. I went to the city of Stirling one day, and visited
    the National William Wallace Monument, a great 19th-century
    century-built landmark perched loftily on a lovely, green hilltop.
    After making my way down from the summit, I encountered something that
    morphed my good feeling into outright disgust. By the foot of
    the hill stood a big stone statue of Mel Gibson, mace in hand, screaming
    triumphantly. It seemed like stone-Mel knew he was ruining my
    time in Stirling and that there lied his ultimate victory over me. The word "FREEDOM" carved into the rock mockingly reminded me of
    how very trapped I was in the Mel-universe.

    Next to the
    statue there was a plaque with the story behind the work written on
    it. Some poor guy carved the thing because when he was down in
    the dumps (slowly dying from some horrible disease), he watched Braveheart,
    and the movie had been able to fill him with national pride and confidence. I thought it was strange how the one thing that made this sculptor so
    hopeful in his final days was the source of so much unpleasantness for
    me. Why couldn’t the guy have seen The Mary Tyler Moore Show
    on his deathbed and carved a statue of its namesake, like the one that
    dazzles in the streets of the fine city of Minneapolis, Minnesota?
    I guess some people just aren’t lucky enough to get Nick at Nite.

  • Minnesota: Card Carrying Member of the Mile High Club

    After $761 million in public financing in the early
    nineties, countless broken promises to workers, unions, legislators, and the
    inane poke to the rectum that is the price of the Northwest
    SmartSnack
    , Minnesota’s favorite dysfunctional relationship is over.
    Sure, it was great to throw our international hub status in the faces of those
    who would dare deem us flyover country. And surely the fascinating articles on
    Minnesota cities and landmarks featured in NWA WorldTraveler
    brought hordes of screaming tourists to our fair state and raised the profile
    of Forest
    Lake
    on the world stage. The tax revenue didn’t hurt either.

    But we paid dearly for these perks. For no matter how many
    times the airline took advantage of our willingness to bend over, we never once
    got a reacharound.
    And make no mistake, the announced acquisition of Northwest Airlines by Delta
    is no exception.

    Many are calling this move a merger. I call bullshit. Delta
    is paying $3.1 billion for Northwest, the company is going to be called Delta,
    and the headquarters is going to be located in Atlanta. This shouldn’t strike
    anyone with a functioning neuron as a merger of equals. Of course, this isn’t
    such a horrible thing for the companies. By trimming operations, marketing, and
    executive staff, not to mention logistics, at various airports, the company
    gets to continue to do business in a remarkably inefficient way – continuing
    the holding action the airlines have been running for the last decade as they
    try to cope with the economic realities of the modern world.

    That’s what this merger is about. Two large airlines, both
    in fairly weak positions coming off bankruptcy, recognizing that being bigger
    would allow them to continue the status quo for a few more years before the
    economy and their own stultifying cultures and abject idiocy brings them
    inevitably to the conclusion that the only way to survive and cover the rising
    cost of jet fuel is to sell "executive
    services
    " in WorldClub lounges.

    But what does this mean for Minnesota? In the short term,
    we’re getting buggered again, sans lube. Northwest HQ will leave town, along
    with the high paying jobs and tax revenues that accompany it. The newly merged
    company will have a conversation with our esteemed governor to discuss how it
    can adhere to the "spirit" of its agreements with the state and much noise will
    be made about the obvious benefits of whatever agreement is made to release the
    company from its obligations – maybe we’ll take flying unicorns instead of
    planes, and the in-flight drink service will include MDMA cocktails, making for
    the happiest red-eye in aviation history.

    Regardless, Minnesota’s grand tradition of being boned by
    business will, of course, preclude taking payment on the $245 million in
    bonding money the airline technically would owe the state for pulling the
    headquarters out of the state.

    Of course, Northwest leaving would present more opportunity
    should our government show some huevos and take away some of the preferred
    provider status the airline enjoys at MSP. For years, Northwest has rabidly
    turned away competition at the airport by undercutting competitor pricing and
    locking up three quarters of the gates at the Lindbergh Terminal. With
    concessions from the uber-line, we could have real competition in the market.
    Southwest and JetBlue might actually set up shop here, thus dropping average
    fares for Minnesotans. Because sure, we have service to 160 cities, but on
    average it costs us $60 more per ticket to get to any of them, according to a
    University of California, Berkeley study.

    But given how many times our government has rolled over and
    wet itself in the face of pressure from business interests, I’d say das
    uber-line will be happily gouging Minnesotans for Cancun vacations until we
    rise up in a grand populist rebellion, or until they realize what kind of
    margins Ashley
    Alexandra Dupre
    could bring to the WorldClubs.

     

     

     

  • Scot-Free

    NORTH, SOUTH, DOWN & OUT

    Hello everyone,
    I know it has been a while since my last post, but I have been busy
    accruing material for this one by traveling around this fair island. This blog-entry will concentrate on my recent travels outside Edinburgh. First to the capital of the UK and home to those English leeches: the
    monarchs of Britain; and secondly to Scotland’s biggest and most unsettling
    city, Glasgow.

    CHAPTER 1:
    GETTING TO LONDON

    I took a night-bus
    from Edinburgh to London to visit some friends from Macalester who are
    studying there at King’s College for a semester. A nine-hour trip
    in a tiny cramped seat is bad enough without miserable company; but
    I was unfortunate enough to get the full two-fer-one crappy bus-ride
    combo. The guy who sat next to me looked like the kind of guy
    Dilbert would refuse to be seen with in public. At first, I was
    excited because he was immediately talkative. I thought to myself
    that this was going to be fun, that my bus-partner and I were going
    to become friends like in Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Then the guy decided to tell me about his job working for an open-source
    version of Google maps, and everything started to turn.

    He blathered
    on about his job in a peppy and cartoonish way that I will refrain from
    here because it would alienate you as it did me. This is
    the gist of the one-sided exchange: He and his friends decided that
    it would be neat to set out on a quest to take pictures of the entire
    world to in order to submit these images to a league of powerful amateur
    cartographers. These other participants scrutinized them and put
    them together to form a map. This noble alliance between the camera-toting
    vagrants and the mapmakers led to what my delusional companion proudly
    hailed as a "more accurate version of Google maps."

    As he gestured
    wildly trying to recreate his madcap bike-rides through the Scottish
    countryside, armed only with a Nikon and a bottle of Powerade, I tried
    to drown out his goofy voice with the power of my own thoughts.
    I started to inwardly question the veracity of his absurd claims. How could a bunch of bored would-be Vespuccis do a better job than Google
    does? Guys who mainly specialize in the field of knowing all the
    lines from Monty Python movies cannot outdo a company that has employed
    its satellites to take pictures of the surfaces of the Moon and Mars.

    Of course,
    that was only one of many questions that popped into my head, along
    with "why didn’t you just take another bus to London?" and "why
    can’t God just disintegrate somebody for me just this once?" Everything got much worse when he decided to point at the street every
    time we came across a patch of land that he and his friends needed to
    "explore more deeply" for the project. This happened very
    often — so often that eventually I forgot all civility and tersely told
    him I had to go to sleep. This was a blatant lie: nobody could
    sleep on a bus-ride as cramped and uncomfortable as this. Except
    for the map-nerd. He slept like an oversized baby, snoring loudly,
    and shuffling his legs in a way that clearly violated my prized personals
    space.

    Eventually
    I did get to London; I parted ways with my nightmare-bus-buddy, and
    we have not crossed paths again.

    CHAPTER 2:
    LONDON

    The famous
    landmarks of London are so familiar to everyone that I will not waste
    time describing the spires of Westminster Abbey or anything as mundane as
    that. Instead, I will tell you about some other stuff that happened
    to me in the UK capital.

    Being in a
    major city, the amount of options available to you can be overwhelming,
    disorientating, even paralyzing. Matt, the friend I was staying
    with in London, was kind enough to tackle this problem before I got
    there by losing his job. Now, we were free to roam the streets
    of the capital unhampered by the responsibility and indecision that
    come with that burden of burdens: money! No tours or fine dining
    for us. Instead, we had plenty of time to witness other more "idiosyncratic"
    attractions.

    One afternoon,
    when we were walking on London’s Strand we noticed some very colorful
    shapes moving about in a small alley near us. We walked towards
    the alley and the shapes came into focus. Before me, I saw what
    seemed to be the gaudy entrance of a nightclub and next to it were several
    individuals fully costumed to look like different animals. A fox
    in a policeman’s uniform cuffed a yellow rabbit in a baseball jersey. A purple wolf with robot-parts stared my friend and me down with his
    laser-eyes. Some other critters completely ignored us and went
    around taking pictures of each other in weirdly suggestive poses. My friend and I exchanged confused looks with a hint of trepidation,
    realizing that we were in the territory of some pretty wild deviance. Like lower mammals responding to a base instinct, we began to take pictures
    of these people who enthusiastically obliged us by strutting around
    in a way that can’t really be called "sexy" but which I can perhaps
    best describe as "uncanny."

    After this
    brush with perversity, I visited many other, more conventional sights. I saw Britain’s largest manmade crack in the Tate Modern and a host
    of pictures of historical luminaries with weak chins at the National
    Portrait Gallery
    . I even heard a recording of James Joyce’s
    shrill aunt of a voice at the British Library! Every day was rich
    with activity! However
    stimulated these activities kept my eyes and ears, the call of a grumbling
    tummy inevitably brings me to my next topic: food

    People often
    complain about British cuisine. They say it is unhealthy, unsavory,
    and unsatisfying (and not worth the £5.00 you pay for it). I
    like deep-fried things, though, so Scotland has been good to me. Fish ‘n’ chips, deep-fried pork rib, and analogous dishes are exactly
    what clogs my heart and arteries with joy as well as fat. London,
    on the other hand was not as delightfully greasy a romp as its Scottish
    counterpart, Edinburgh.

    There, I went
    to what may well be the worst Chinese buffet currently in operation.
    It was an awful place where the bits of chicken tasted like crusty soap
    and all the desserts were cubic. Everybody at the restaurant,
    save myself and the friends who were with me, looked absolutely depressed. They ate the food with heir heads hanging in despair, as if somebody
    were making them do it. Frankly, I think that by the end of our
    meal, we also must have looked like we had just endured some especially
    cruel and ancient torture. Nevertheless, we swallowed down several
    plates of this shitty matter, because it was, after all, an all-you-can-eat
    buffet, and we jumped at the chance at finally getting
    the most bang for our quid.

    The moral of
    this story is: when in London, refuse the food. No matter how
    hungry you are, it is not worth the pain and sadness you will feel after
    your stomach is full of toxic bile. This I learned the hard way.
    Soon after my culinary travail, I had to take the bus back to Edinburgh.
    I spent the whole trip looking out the window; trying hard to fight
    back London’s take on the ol’ buffet blues.

    Now, on to
    the next stop on this tour of the Isle:

    GLASGOW

    A few of my
    friends and I decided to travel via train from Edinburgh to Glasgow
    in order to take in this city. I knew little about my destination,
    and God knows I wasn’t going to bother myself with doing research. Thankfully my flatmate, Knut, had some helpful information to provide.
    From him, I found out that Glasgow was the "knife-fight capital"
    of Scotland and that I should "definitely
    avoid needles" at all costs.

    Soon after
    I arrived at Glasgow, things took on a sinister bent. The city
    had many beautiful buildings, but the sight of encroaching urban sprawl
    was something that had become alien to me in tidy Edinburgh. As
    we ambled down the causeways and closes, I noticed cultural artifacts
    like smack-spikes and dirty shoes abandoned in strange, muddy gutters.
    Then I saw a group of chavs shout obscenities at a couple of women. The women screeched back some non-words in self-defense and gave them
    the two-finger "screw you" salute. I made it past this battle
    and came to a plaza. There, a man stood on a ladder, and hysterically
    spat passages from a big book (The
    Bible? Dianetics?
    ) at a group of onlookers. Sometimes he took
    breaks to tell us passers-by that we were "Scum!" and "Damned!" This city was obviously no place for the faint of heart.

    For some odd
    reason, we decided to go to the Glasgow Necropolis. Deep in my
    stomach, I felt this was a bad decision as it meant getting closer to
    the tombs of Scots killed in the knife-fights I was told about.
    We went, though, and I saw where John Knox was buried. After that, nothing
    else really happened. Hopefully, next time I go to Glasgow I will
    get bludgeoned by a wino with a bloody dirk and I will get the "real
    Glasgow experience" I was hoping for. Until then, cherished
    memories of rudeness and creepy fanaticism will have to do.

  • Of Pubs and Parliament

    Hello, my name is Hector E. Ramos-Ramos, and I intend here to share with you my observations, opinions, and concerns while I am abroad (primarily in Scotland), courtesy of the study abroad program at St. Paul’s own Macalester College.

    Although I am not originally from Minnesota, the home of Bunyan and Babe has grown on me in a way I could not have predicted that first winter in 2005. Back then I constantly asked myself why I had forsaken the perpetual balminess of my hometown of San Juan, Puerto Rico, for this. Eventually though, just like the videos at the Light Rail stations tell you, even the harshest winter becomes tolerable after you’ve understood how charming Minnesota really is.

    In any case, I’m in Scotland now, at the University of Edinburgh, and I’m behind blogging schedule, so now I have to make up for my laziness with some earnest storytelling.

    I left San Juan around noon, was briefly stationed in New York City, flew from there to London (our in-flight movie was Tootsie), and then, it was just a brisk hour-long hop to Edinburgh. It had taken more than a day, but when I arrived at the airport I received my hard-earned prize: torrents of hard, cold sleet. Welcome to Scotland.

    I followed a trail of visiting university students. We all piled into a bus. None of us spoke to one another, and everyone seemed exhausted and eager to get some sleep. When I was dropped off at my university flat, the absence of bedding in my room gave me a reason to go out into the Scottish capital and explore.

    Highlights from Week One:

    The next day, orientation was held at a large lecture hall. I sat next to my flatmate, Vilhelm, from Sweden. He is one of four guys who live in our apartment (from now on, "flat"). We patiently watched some very nice Scottish university employees talk to us about the beauties of their country and the ins and outs of opening a bank account. Their accents were impenetrable, and the only way I sort-of understood what they were saying was by looking at a massive PowerPoint projection.

    Pubs happened soon after and would continue throughout the otherwise commitment-free week. Discovering a new pub is like finding a new home away from home away from home. It was during one of these introductions into the world of pubs (accompanied by my new friends, all of them from continental Europe), that I got my first lesson in local drink-culture. I went to order a pint of lager (beer) at the counter, and one of the brands, Tennent’s, caught my eye. I told the man what I wanted, and some young Scotsmen behind me in the queue reacted by chortling. One of them made the reason for my risibility very clear, "Tennent’s is for poofs." Since I have seen a number of British sitcoms, I know that poofs = limp-wristed weenies. Not wanting to be the source of Scottish mirth, I turned to the man behind the counter and said, "Erm, excuse me, could I get a Caledonian instead." No laugh track accompanied my change of drink.

    Highlights from Week Two:

    Already a week into classes, things had started to get slightly less fancy-free. My friends and I did a fair amount of touristing though. The school provided us the option of paying a few pounds for a daylong trip to the much sung-about Loch Lomond. We decided to bite the bait and hopped on the bus to the Loch. After three hours of cramped travel, we were there — Loch Lomond: 80% mist and 20 % shopping mall. After the fog cleared up and I saw the ducks doing their thing in the vast expanse of grey water, I turned to look at the awful strip mall opposite the Loch and thought to myself "What kind of schmo let this happen?" The Loch is so large that I was told by a park ranger that it would take several days on foot to go around the whole thing; I only had a few hours, so I proceeded to feed most of the ducks in my immediate surroundings. At Loch Lomond, I also found out that my flatmate, Vilhelm, has a mild case of cynophobia. This emerged after I saw him get stiff as a lamppost when two beautiful German Shepherds decided to nuzzle playfully at his feet. Later, he told me with the severity
    of a character from a Bergman movie that "dogs get more attention
    than they ought to…they don’t deserve it, not one." 

    I got to know my other flatmates, Knut and Mathieu, better this week. Knut is from Norway, but he speaks in perfect British "received pronunciation," sometimes sounding like a youthful Richard Attenborough. Mathieu is from France and he is soccer-mad, seemingly planning his life around television matches and trips to see some of his favorite teams play. The first is rather fond of dry humor, and it is comforting to know that we both share a love of classic British comedies like Yes, Minister. Mathieu
    is more happy-go-lucky, but he has a marvelously good attitude to everything. 
    He makes Marcel Marceau look like an undertaker. 

    This week, my friends and I also went to Calton Hill, where many Scottish luminaries are buried. I got a special kick out of seeing the mausoleum David Hume commissioned for himself. I am a big fan of Hume, and I appreciate praise Edinburgh heaps on him, in the form of big buildings named after him and big statues portraying him. On the hill, we also saw the National Monument, a half-finished (yet, indeed, monumental) thing in the style of the Parthenon. Begun in 1822 to commemorate the Scottish soldiers who died for Britain at Waterloo, plans to finally finish construction are tentative. I like it the way it is — aren’t most of those old Greek things in ruins anyway?

  • What I Saw on My Summer Vacation

    In celebration of thirty years of my wife’s profound ability to tolerate me, we went to France for ten days last month. We did the things we usually do when we go to interesting places. We got a very small and inexpensive hotel room (under the theory that we’re never there anyway) and spent all day walking from museum to café to art gallery to bar.

    Paris last month had much of the aspect of a boom town. The Rugby World Cup was in play, along with thousands of mostly well behaved supporters. The plaza in front of Paris City Hall was partially covered with artificial turf. An enormous high-definition screen covered the façade of the Hôtel de Ville, broadcasting the equivalent of French ESPN’s interminable updates on the condition of every team and player. Further evidence of the importance of the World Cup to the city could be inferred from the price of beer. Anywhere that fans were likely to congregate was charging about fourteen dollars for half a liter. Of course, the price could have just seemed high to Americans, whose currency is only slightly more valuable than that of Zimbabwe.

    We Americans quickly learned to embrace the spiritual refreshment offered by a glass of vin rouge, which was delicious, and cost only the equivalent of five dollars—two bucks less than one pays in most Minneapolis wine bars—and the tip is included.

    The French could have been in a good mood just because of the full hotels and restaurants supplied by the tourist influx, but they seemed genuinely hospitable to anyone who had bothered to learn enough French to at least start a conversation. In general, if you made an effort, they were happy to switch to English when you ran out of French, especially if that event didn’t follow immediately after bonjour.

    Their attitude extended to the tourists in the Louvre. Although the museum is peppered with signs prohibiting flash photography, the guards actually don’t seem to mind. That is perhaps because the Mona Lisa is now behind its own glass enclosure, and ropes keep the mob from getting close enough to admire the painting except through viewfinders set on maximum zoom. In fact, that seems to be how many find their way through museums: behind a digital camera. Someday someone will explain to me why, instead of stopping to look at a painting while you are three feet from it, you’d prefer to review a pale reproduction two weeks later on a home computer screen.

    Normandy, two hours northwest of Paris by train, was also thick with tourists. Some stop in Bayeux to see the famous tapestry that narrates the story of the Norman Conquest of England in 1066. But most are there for the cemetery at Omaha Beach. None of the boisterous revelry of Paris here; the European and American tourists are all struck silent by the manicured green field that stretches over the rolling plateau above the Channel. There are nine thousand marble-white crosses and Stars of David, but no physical signs of the battle. Like the panels of the Bayeux tapestry down the road, the visitor center’s tableaux offer explanatory vignettes of the Normandy invasion of 1944. But at Bayeux there were no choked-back sobs of the pilgrim who came upon the etched name of a young man he knew.

    Up the road six kilometers is Pointe du Hoc, where the detritus of battle is everywhere. The craters from the D-Day bombardment still pock the cliff-top site of the German shore batteries. Barbed wire rusts at edge of the precipice. The shattered walls of the pillboxes jut up at irregular angles from the overgrown meadow. Steel reinforcing bars sprout from the wrecked concrete, twisted by the heat and concussion of the explosions into grasping shapes that mock the men who reached up their hands that day to heaven for help that didn’t come.

    Unlike at the Paris museums, no horde pushes you along here. You can stand in one spot as long as you like and imagine every detail of the tumult that colored this landscape.

    Tom Bartel now blogs at Travel Past 50.

  • The Voyage of the Heath Ledger

    On June 17, 2006, we quietly paddled the Heath Ledger across the Canadian border. We hadn’t exactly planned to sneak into Canada. Joe and I were on a mission—to reach Hudson Bay by canoe, still hundreds of miles to the northeast—and as we approached the border we realized that interactions with government officials might endanger that mission. For one thing, we were unsure whether the guards would let Joe, with his extensive juvenile record, into the country. We also carried a 12-gauge shotgun (for protection against the polar bears we expected to meet downriver), which authorities in firearms-phobic Canada would seize if declared. So we chose the path of least resistance across the frontier, paddling through swirling waters into shimmering twilight.

    We could hear the distant rumblings of semis, and between silhouettes of weeping willows, we saw the glow from floodlights at the Pembina/Emerson border post a mile beyond the muddy banks. But on the Red River there was no customs station, no sign of welcome to “Friendly Manitoba.” The border here was marked only by a black trestle of crisscrossed girders without so much as a single red maple leaf. As we slipped under the railroad span, floating illegally into the country, we were pushed along by a welcome rush of current, the first significant natural flow we’d seen since the trip began on June 4, four hundred river miles south at Wahpeton, North Dakota—the headwaters of the Red.

    Already we had been interrogated by officials from five different law enforcement agencies in the U.S. They seemed to think we were either terrorists, immigrant smugglers, or perverted lovers: a big sick white guy with a lip ring and his skinny younger Puerto Rican/Lakota boy-toy acting out a canoe version of Brokeback Mountain. The movie had come out a few months earlier and now it seemed that two men couldn’t go camping together without the assumption that they were gay. In response, we named the canoe after one of the film’s stars.

    They all asked the same questions:
    How do you two know each other?
    Where are you going?
    How long do you expect that to take?
    How did you get time off for such a long trip?
    How will you know where you’re going?
    What are you going to do for food?
    Why are you doing this?

    I insisted on taking charge of these conversations after watching Joe lose his cool at the sight of uniformed authority figures. He would start running at the mouth, each jittery falsetto utterance sounding more sketchy and full-of-shit than the last.

    My responses were cautiously worded to prevent the cop, sheriff, ICE official, game warden, or forest ranger from opening new lines of inquiry. If they had hauled us in for questioning they might have connected Joe to the recent Frogtown incident.

    So I always told them the truth, albeit a painstakingly tailored version. Nevertheless, the cop, sheriff, ICE official, forest ranger, or game warden would nod suspiciously at what must have sounded, to their post-9/11 ears, like a hastily manufactured cover story: I was Joe’s mentor. We had met five years earlier at New Voices, a Minneapolis-based journalism program for American Indian youth. We expected our trip on the Red, Nelson, Echimamish and Hayes Rivers to take roughly two months. Joe’s employer, Pawn America, had granted him a leave of absence for the summer. I was a teacher, so I got summers off. We were navigating with topographical maps, compasses, and a Global Positioning System receiver; for sustenance we had freeze-dried camping food and the occasional gas station or restaurant meal.

    I was careful not to mention that this trip was Joe’s way of lying low for the summer. My nineteen-year-old paddling partner had recently been mixed up in a street incident involving a sawed-off shotgun and a crack dealer named Sonic. Luckily, no one was hurt. But word in Frogtown was that Sonic was seeking swift retribution. Joe left with me days after the episode without telling anyone where he was going—not his older brother D, his closest friend and confidant, not even his mother.

    Nor did I volunteer the intimate details of my life: I was a single father of four, an unemployed writer with no certain job prospects to return to, and no goal in life except to make it to Hudson Bay with Joe or die trying. I had embarked on this journey to try to stave off a nervous breakdown, having spent much of the previous six months alternating between dizzying waves of anxiety and fits of uncontrolled sobbing, symptoms of a depression resulting from a series of deaths and personal losses that began with my divorce in 2003.

    Each time the police ran our names for warrants, there was an increasing fear that the law had caught up with Joe, and that this trip would end for us not at the sea, but in the penitentiary. I don’t know if it was the fact that we were an unusual pair of travelers heading toward an international border in an age of terrorism hysteria; or perhaps it stemmed from the kind of extralegal scrutiny many dark-skinned people in America endure every day. Either way, it seemed our trip was being viewed by government officials as a criminal act. In Grand Forks, we were issued a trespass warning after we spent the night camped atop a flood dike. In the tiny Red River Valley town of Climax, Minnesota, we stopped one night for cheese curds and beer at the Corner Bar and were questioned by a patrolman who said he had received “reports of two men with backpacks.” Thirty miles north of Drayton, North Dakota, a pair of game wardens in a speedboat approached cautiously after scrutinizing us through binoculars; they then grilled us at length about fishing regulations, even though we weren’t fishing.

    The trickiest part of these interrogations was inventing answers the authorities would believe in response to that last question: Why? They demanded to know what was motivating this odd couple to travel over water and land from the heart of the Great Plains to the far edge of the continent, an endeavor that, judging from their uniformly dubious expressions, no sane person would undertake without sinister motive.

    There was no innocent-sounding answer, so I again went with a clipped rendition of the truth. This trip was about physical and spiritual renewal. That’s what I told them: physical and spiritual renewal.

    Joe, on the other hand, would puff out his chest and bluster righteously, Vacation! The word sounded suspect coming out of his mouth—anyone familiar with the Red River knows it is one of the most hellacious, unforgiving American waterways to paddle—but it, too, was partially true. Joe would often say life on the river, however difficult, was a cakewalk compared with his day-to-day in the city. The torture of paddling ten or twelve hours a day to make thirty or forty miles, eating and sleeping on riverbanks that were essentially mud pits, baking under the withering sun, and freezing through frequent cloudbursts, was, to us both, a welcome respite from the heartache and stress that had come to dominate our lives in St. Paul. There was an aspect of our days on the river that was similar to self-mutilation; the physical pain relieved our suffering hearts.

    Crossing the border without incident, Joe expressed relief by mocking me for having intended to report to customs. It had been his idea from the start to steal across the border under cover of night. “Fuck them border bitches,” he laughed. “Them bitches can’t touch us out here.”

    I realized how absurd some of my assumptions about the river had been. Even though we had seen a total of only five other boats in the past fourteen days, I half-expected to find a fully functioning customs station on this all-but-abandoned river. But since I was relying for guidance on Canoeing with the Cree, a book chronicling a 1925 expedition from Fort Snelling to Hudson Bay, I was bound to be wrong once in a while.

  • Learning to Speak

    It’s a bit foggy aboard the Queen Mary 2 on our second day out of New York. The sky merges seamlessly with the ocean, obliterating the horizon in mushy blue-grayness. But deep inside this massive vessel—the newest, largest, fastest, and most luxurious ocean liner in the world—and behind the doors of the Illuminations auditorium, the stage lights are so bright that I can’t see anyone beyond the second row. What I know (and sense acutely) is that there are 150 people in the room, and that their attention, in just a moment, will be trained on me. For the first time I feel nervous, my self-assurance fading into a maritime cloudbank along with the afternoon sun. I start to worry: Have I combed my hair? Did I get my tie on straight? Am I going to stammer?

    Dr. David Vaisey, a silver-haired Oxford professor and a luminary in the world of English academia, takes the lectern to introduce me. It was never the icebergs of the North Atlantic I feared. It’s these spotlights.

    Months earlier, checking my morning email, I noticed one that stood out from the deluge of spam that usually arrives overnight. It was addressed: “From Oxford University for William Gurstelle.” Yes, that storied institution of higher learning. And they had a business proposition for me: Oxford runs the Discovery Series, a continuing-education program offered on the Cunard Line’s Queen Mary 2, and they wanted me to present a series of lectures on my particular area of expertise: catapults, Tesla coils, rockets, coil guns, flamethrowers, and other technology-with-an-edge stuff. I’ve carved out a niche in this area, authored books, and developed an overall reputation as the go-to guy for the facts on things that go whoosh, boom, and splat.

    In return for four presentations on these topics, Oxford offered a stipend, along with airfare and accommodations for me and a guest aboard the Queen Mary 2. In an attempt to avoid appearing overly eager, I waited two days before accepting. Then, promptly, I began to feel pangs of apprehension. I’ve given quite a few talks before, and typically they involve a fair amount of nervous anticipation. I’m more a writer than a speaker. Still, I figured I would know more about my strange little area of expertise than any of the ship’s other passengers, and wasn’t an all-expenses-paid trip on a legendary ocean liner worth some anxiety?

    All of that rationalizing seems a million years ago as I mount the stage and stand at the lectern. I take a gulp of water and look down at my notes. It’s my turn in the spotlight.

    Historians tell us that public speaking—the art of oratory—was crucial to the culture of ancient Greece and the Roman Empire. In Rhetoric, Aristotle explained his method for effective and persuasive speaking. A public speaker must master three things, he said: ethos, pathos, and logos. Ethos comes from a speaker’s credibility; pathos from his emotion; and logos from his logic. These simple ideas have influenced speaking traditions throughout Western civilizations in the 2,400 years since Rhetoric was published.

    Public speaking has been an important part of life in America since before the Revolution. Whether you wanted to win an election, supporters for your cause, or converts for your congregation, the ability to deliver crowd-pleasing speeches was necessary. Candidates for office debated. Ministers preached. And—most relevant to the task in front of me—guest speakers at the local lyceums and other organizations such as Chautauquas and Rotary Clubs provided education and entertainment for people of all classes in cities and small towns across America.

    Even with the advent of electronic information exchange—from radio and television to blogs, email, and online chats—the tradition of public speaking remains vital. Still, a great many of us are loathe to stand up and talk in front of our peers. People fear public speaking for one of two reasons. A minority of people are truly phobic, and probably no amount of practice or coaching will help them to overcome their fear. The rest of us simply realize, consciously or unconsciously, that we are unskilled public speakers. We don’t know how to use this activity to help us accomplish goals, and that makes us nervous. I do rather like to talk, publicly and privately; what I suffered from was an antipathy to the idea of exhibiting myself, in public, as mediocre. The way to avoid that was to prepare for my engagement very, very well.

    I figured that reciting my talk in front of a mirror would yield minimal results, and be quite boring, to boot. So I embarked on a different sort of training program, something I called my Audible Spring, built around the observation of speakers speaking. I resolved to see every major speaker coming to the Twin Cities that I possibly could in the four months preceding my summer voyage on the Queen Mary 2. I might or might not enjoy these people or be moved by them—but I would learn from them. Stutter, strut, sweat, or swear, it wasn’t what these orators were saying, it was how they said it that mattered.

    Once I became attuned to looking, I found the number and quality of lecturers coming to the Twin Cities nearly overwhelming. Another not-insignificant benefit of my self-improvement program was the food that is frequently offered after lectures. In fact, these free buffets were often superb: exotic pastries, aged cheeses, and, occasionally, the ne plus ultra of the hors d’oeuvres table, jumbo shrimp. One’s overall impression of even the driest, most obtuse lecture can always be improved by the ingestion of high-quality canapés and finger foods immediately afterward.

    After attending nearly three dozen lectures, I devised a framework for understanding the world of public speaking, dividing it into a series of patterns and formats. Most speaking engagements, I noticed, fall into one of three categories: inspirational, informative, or persuasive. While some speakers may fall outside this taxonomy, it usually holds up well.

    Those of the inspirational ilk are usually billed as “motivational speakers”; characters who have made it their job to tell people to reach higher, to try harder, to be more creative, or to think outside the box. For such speakers, their credibility—Aristotle’s ethos—might lie with their unparalleled ability to throw out base runners at second base (Johnny Bench) or endure astronaut training (Buzz Aldrin), but in many cases, it’s a matter of self-proclamation: The speaker is a successful motivator by dint of being a successful motivator (Tony Robbins).

    Persuaders distinguish themselves with a cause or a calling. They preach, rant, and cajole, warning against the monoculture of corn farming (Michael Pollan) or plead for higher levels of journalistic integrity (Seth Mnookin). Like the motivators, they often employ a formula: Launch with a startling story, fill the middle with facts and statistics, and bring things to a close with a stentorian call to action.

    The third group, the informers, seeks to explain things to people, not change them. Usually less dynamic than the other types of talkers, they make use of graphics-heavy presentations and are prone to reading from notes; they lecture about science, politics, and the seldom-heard stories behind well-known events. My own talks fall largely into this category. Certainly, I love my subject matter and I hope my enthusiasm for it comes through. But you can’t please everyone. I feared coming across as stodgy or pedantic, cringing visibly if my auditors were to check their watches, or worse, leave early.

    The length of a typical lecture runs fifty minutes, give or take ten minutes. But fifty minutes spent simply informing, persuading, or motivating always seems too long. The speakers I like best merge these genres. If they’re good, they spend some time in two areas, and if they’re great, they hit all three. Both Dan Pink, a journalist and Washington insider of some repute, and the Guthrie Theater’s Joe Dowling were stellar, mixing all three modalities seamlessly and effectively. When inspiration, information, and persuasion are expertly combined in one neat package, as happened with these speakers, a lecture can be as amazing for the audience as any other, perhaps more artistically oriented, cultural experience.

    Still, the personal and more intimate nature of a lecture distinguishes it from other forms of public entertainment, such as a play or a concert. As much as we would like to ask Osmo Vänskä or Joe Dowling why they interpreted Beethoven or Tennessee Williams in a particular way, the opportunity to query them personally doesn’t often happen—except in a lecture. Thanks to the virtually mandatory Q&A session afterward, audience members have a rare chance to connect directly with those people at the center of attention. It’s that personal connection between speaker and listener that can make a lecture a profound experience, one with immediate impact. Using their own words directly and passionately, speakers can transform an audience: The audience may become more informed, more enthusiastic, or more partisan. The fact is, they go away different from when they arrived. Add a buffet and it can’t be beat.

    So it was that last spring I found myself gobbling up every lecture I could find (and quite often, the food offered afterward), in many cases attending more than one a day. My improvement program began with Salman Rushdie at the Thursday noontime Westminster Town Hall Forum in downtown Minneapolis. The novelist exuded bravado and confidence, traits not unexpected from someone with a Powerball-sized fatwa on his head (and no bodyguards, either, at least not in sight).

    Still, while Rushdie was persuasive and motivating, he was also opinionated, facile, and glib. “Do not start me on The DaVinci Code,” he sneered. “A novel so bad that it gives bad novels a bad name.” The audience nodded and snickered knowingly, though no doubt more than half of these people had read and enjoyed the book.

    Later that week, Paul Sereno, a University of Chicago paleontologist, visited the State Theater in downtown Minneapolis. Uncharacteristically for a lecture, the sponsor, National Geographic Magazine, created a bit of advance hype with promotional materials that gushed about him being “a real-life Indiana Jones” and “one of People magazine’s 50 Most Beautiful People.” But while Sereno was an adequate informer, he was but a so-so persuader and no motivator at all. Sadly, there was no bullwhip and no lost ark; nor was there much excitement. And while his talk was heavy on facts and photos, basically (and ironically, for a paleontologist) it had no bones. Despite all the talk of dinosaurs, fossils, and grueling, sweating African expeditions through the desert, I left more exhausted than exhilarated.

    After these initial forays, the local lecture scene heated up. My calendar grew clogged with opportunities for intellectual enlightenment. Simon Singh, a Cambridge-educated cosmologist, best-selling science writer, and BBC television host, visited Minneapolis Community and Technical College, where he made a strong case for the importance of science education. While he is a persuader of some talent, Singh is primarily known for his ability to inform, having made his mark as perhaps the foremost explainer of the Big Bang Theory (the subject of his latest book). Singh was also quite entertaining, sprinkling in clever gimmicks and telling some pretty good jokes. In all, even if I found it hard to fathom his explanations of what happened in the first ten-billionth of a second after the universe began, he managed to make even string theory and twelve-dimensional space-time sound rather user friendly.

    A few weeks later, St. Louis Park’s own Tom Friedman visited Macalester College. The New York Times columnist was earnest and smooth, as he’d better be at a reputed thirty-five thousand dollars per lecture (a fee that might explain why there was no post-lecture buffet on this occasion). Friedman, a Macalester staffer told me, does use a formula for his speeches—one that I thought worked quite well. A fine informer and a superior persuader, Friedman began with a joke and moved adroitly through a presentation of the gist of his book, The World is Flat, via a bullet-point summary of world politics as shaped by the economic rise of India and China. He made one well-articulated point after another, finished up a scant hour later—and voilà, he was thirty-five grand richer.

    Soon after Friedman’s talk, I went to the Minnesota History Center in St. Paul, expecting to listen to David Horowitz, the well-known conservative ideologue. I found to my dismay that I was there to hear David Horowitz, the Portland State University professor and not-so-well-known social scientist.

    “Let’s welcome the real David Horowitz!” enthused the scholarly colleague who introduced him. As if to make himself more real to the audience, this Horowitz spent the first half-hour reading his own biography, wherein he offered copious details of his professional relationships with various faculty members from the University of Minnesota’s history department. Beyond that, however, he actually offered interesting notions about the effect of American popular culture on literature, the performing arts, painting, and comedy. And the buffet afterward was outstanding: several mixed-fruit tarts, a properly rich tiramisu, and some unbelievably flaky mille-feuilles.

    As it turned out, Friedman was just the opener for a season of big-name speakers: My schedule soon filled up with dates to hear former UN Secretary-General Kofi Annan, retired Supreme Court Justice Sandra Day O’Connor, NPR reporter Don Gonyea, explorer Anne Bancroft, and writers T. Coraghessan Boyle, Tracy Kidder, Sebastian Junger, and David Halberstam, to name a few. I learned something from just about every one of them, too. Sandra Day O’Connor, for example, was a surprising master of body language. Gesturing vigorously and to great effect, her hands amplified and emphasized her speaking points in a way that words and voice could not. In his speaking, as in his millions-selling series of books, Jack “Chicken Soup for the Soul” Canfield had a real knack for taking trivial-sounding principles and puffing them up to sound important. Plus, the snack buffet after his talk was heartier than most, a plain but filling spread of fresh fruit, miniature bagels, and various non-gourmet cheeses (Gouda or Stilton would be a bit pretentious for a guy like Canfield).

    No land-based buffet, free or otherwise, compares to the Queen Mary 2’s four-room extravaganza. On average there are five world cuisines represented, and the fish selection alone ran from sushi, to finnan haddie, to deep-fried haddock. But then everything on this liner was beyond beyond. (When big Mary was first launched in 2003, she was the longest, widest, tallest, and heaviest passenger ship ever built. She lost that last distinction to Norwegian Cruise Line’s Freedom of the Seas last year, but the QM2 is still the largest ocean liner—as opposed to cruise ship—ever built, and she remains the tallest and longest passenger vessel.) Besides the couple dozen restaurants and bars, there are five swimming pools, several art galleries, a fitness center, a spa, a library, a casino, two theaters, a ballroom, five classrooms, and a planetarium. I spent hours anticipating my trip, studying the brochures, choosing the right books to read while stretched out on a padded teak deck chair, and learning how to tie a bow tie for the formal nights.

    Once my girlfriend and I finally flew to New York and boarded the ship in Brooklyn, my first order of business was meeting with the continuing-education staff from Oxford University and the three other speakers booked for the trip. They were all Oxford professors, it turned out: David Vaisey, a venerated historian and the retired head of the Oxford Bodleian Library, probably the most important scholastic library in the world; Hans-Joachim Hahn, a renowned professor of contemporary German culture; and the delightfully named Harry Sidebottom, an Oxford don with a wry sense of humor who specializes in Greek and Roman history. I was selected for this voyage to provide a non-academic counterpoint to these distinguished scholars—and also, not insignificantly, the people at Cunard felt my subject matter would appeal to younger passengers.

    The other lecturers were invaluable as the time for my first presentation drew near. Vaisey in particular was a veteran cruise-ship lecturer. “It’s an older crowd,” he pointed out. “Most of these passengers are here because they’re interested in what you have to say. But these are really comfortable seats. As soon as the lights go down, a few will go to sleep. They can’t help it. Don’t let the snoring break your concentration.”

    The house lights GO down and the spotlight comes up—on me. For fifty minutes, I take my listeners through the history, science, and social significance of various contraptions that were the most powerful, most complex, and most expensive machines on earth for nearly two millennia. I move from Alexander the Great’s arrow-shooting ballistas to the great counterweighted hurling machines of England’s Angevin kings, to catapults, trebuchets, and mangonels—but soon I leave my notes behind. I move into what is known as “Csikszentmihalyian flow,” a state in which words come to the speaker easily and quickly. I have to remind myself to keep the pace down to a fast walk.

    While I had given dozens of lectures, doing so aboard a luxury liner, and with the Oxford imprimatur, gives me added incentive to excel. I soon find that my months of preparation were worthwhile. I bring nearly every technique, every tip that I collected to bear. People respond favorably to my sprinklings of alliterative and onomatopoeic phrases. My pauses for dramatic affect come off, well, dramatically, and not, as I had feared, like I have simply lost my place. And the visual aids—slides ranging from Telsa coils to Ottoman sultans, and video clips featuring lively demonstrations of various machines and devices—make a profound difference in getting my material across, as well as giving people something to look at besides me.

    Afterward, I was told that I could review a video of my lecture—and that, in fact, this video would be cablecast on a continuous loop via the ship’s close-circuit television system. If you think hearing your own recorded voice is strange, try watching a video of yourself speaking. It is far worse. But “you’re always your own worst critic,” Vaisey and Sidebottom said. After a few replays, I did indeed cut myself some slack. I had crossed the North Atlantic without hitting an iceberg.

  • Postcards from Saudi Arabia

    While Sudan and Qatar might be tougher bets, most Americans could spin a globe and pinpoint Saudi Arabia’s deserts with relative ease. Even if your geography fails you, you’ve no doubt at least heard of Saudi and perhaps recall Peter O’Toole shouting across the desert sands in Lawrence of Arabia. The average American might know that the country is the world’s largest oil producer, that it has two coasts—its arid land mass is sandwiched between the Red Sea and the Persian Gulf—and that it is one of America’s allies in the Middle East (this, in spite of the fact that Osama bin Laden was a Saudi national). You might also believe, if you’ve watched certain afternoon talk shows, that women there are imprisoned in their homes and regularly beaten. Or, if you are a Michael Moore fan, that the princes of the Saudi Kingdom have conspired with the Bush family to start wars for oil. If you listen to right-wing radio, you might think that the country is almost entirely populated by people who hate freedom.

    My wife and I have friends in Saudi Arabia. Bob and Reem—he from rural Pennsylvania, she a Saudi national from Jeddah—are a pair of doctors who live in one of the many employee compounds designed to give Westerners a little slice of home in the desert. They have been asking us to visit for too many years, hoping not only to show off their country but to bring a bit of understanding about the place to Americans—any Americans. So recently, my wife and I became unlikely tourists for three weeks in the desert kingdom.

     

    It’s not easy to visit Saudi Arabia. There’s really no such thing as a tourist visa. Westerners go to Saudi because they are working for the government, have business there (usually oil business), or are pilgrims on a Hajj. Upon calling the Saudi embassy in Washington, DC, and inquiring about how to get a visa, I was asked my occupation. But the attaché interrupted before I could say “writer.” “Ah, ah, ah! I don’t want to hear it. Listen . . . get someone to say you’re working for them, and you’re all set.”

    “But I’m not—”

    “Ah, ah, ah! Forget it! Just do like I say, and you’ll be fine.” With that, he hung up.

    Fortunately, Reem’s family has Vitamin Waw, or Wasta, what the Saudis refer to as “connections.” Her uncle agreed to sponsor me as a contractor with his vast refrigeration company. And just like that, we had the necessary documentation. “You’re going to have to lie to airport security?” a neighbor asked. “That’s ballsy.” He had a point. For the remaining weeks before we landed at the Dammam Airport, I cooked up a long story about my work in the refrigeration business, hoping my lie wouldn’t be exposed.