Year: 2007

  • Are You Among Par's Chosen People?

    Former City Pages editor, Steve Perry, has been busy tunneling through some juicy news troves as he prepares to launch his much anticipated website, The Daily Mole, (Think: A young, hip, bra-less version of MinnPost). In the process, he came across an interesting piece of Star Tribune in-house stategery, (as W* would say) that we felt needed to emerge from behind the Mole’s beta fire-wall to be shared with all of you.


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    I quote:

    "Ridder’s Star Tribune legacy: The newspaper of the very best zip codes."

    By Steve Perry
    October 2, 2007

    Par Ridder may have fallen, but his vision of the Star Tribune’s future marches on. The map shown here (click on the image for a large view) is an internally distributed Strib planning document that identifies the "key zip codes" in the paper’s primary distribution area. Think of it as a visual rendering of the paper’s latest push to shore up its collapsing profits and reshape its news coverage in the most demographically attractive corners of the metro: the affluent, mostly conservative outer-ring suburbs. And if you live in Minneapolis or St. Paul (or any first-tier suburb save Edina), think of yourself as the hole in the donut.

    The red sectors on the map also help to make sense of Avista point man Chris Harte’s push for a more conservative editorial page voice in recent months, a development that Brian Lambert and Deborah Rybak have been watching closely at their Rake-hosted media news blog. (Harte’s more notorious diktats have included forced revisions of editorials calling for DOT chief Carol Molnau’s head, and championing a proposed gas tax hike.)

    As one Strib veteran tells the Mole, "The right-wing blog voices that were bashing the paper a couple of years ago, Hugh Hewitt and the rest, have gotten pretty much everything they wanted. The GOP wanted the Minnesota Poll gone, and now it’s gone. They wanted to get rid of people like [editorial board members] Jim Boyd and Susan Albright and their editorial policy, and they’ve succeeded at that. Now there won’t be editorials about the war and global warming; they’ll write about local issues like zoning conflicts in Coon Rapids instead. They wanted the paper to hire a conservative columnist, and they got that. From here on out, it looks like the Strib becomes the conservative, suburbs-oriented paper, and the Pioneer Press will become the paper of the city underdogs and the blue voters. They may wind up getting pushed more to the left."

    (This item is reprinted from the Daily Mole, which enters beta-testing next week. Until this Friday, you can still sign up to receive a beta invitation at www.dailymole.com)

    The irony is that the Parmeister worked his magic in St. Paul before turning his talents on Minneapolis. East of the river he frankly declared his intention to turn the Pioneer Press Op-Ed section into "the conservative alternative to the Star Tribune," all while and blanding-down "news coverage" to those same mythically potent outer suburbs.

    In other words, though shamed by his own malfeasance, Ridder has wrought red across the Twin Cities metro.

  • Wolves News and Baseball Playoff Previews

    In this morning’s conference call from London, I asked Randy Wittman to describe his optimal scenario for Randy Foye. Does he want Foye to be his rock-ribbed point guard, or does he want him to slide over and play the two occasionally, be a combo guard?

    “He is going to play both,” Witt replied. “No, not all of his minutes will be at the point because of all the problems he presents [for opponents] off the ball. So he’ll do both.” The coach noted that in the first exhibition game Foye played about half and half between the guard positions and implied that he’d like to see that continue.

    When I followed up asking who that would deliver minutes for, Marko Jaric of Sebastian Telfair, Wittman said, “These guys are going to dictate who plays. But the opportunities are going to be there because I don’t want 35 minutes of Randy at the point.”

    The PiPress’s Rick Alonzo remarked that that might be news to Foye, who seemed to emphasize that he would be pretty much only a point guard at the media day interviews. But Wittman essentially replied that Foye has foreknowledge of and is on board with the combo guard plan. “He wants to play off the ball some,” Wittman flatly stated, noting that he and Foye have talked about this.

    Okay, maybe this is surprising news, or maybe we should just take it with a boulder (instead of a grain) of salt, along the lines of Witt claiming that the Wolves will be a running team this season. Why am I skeptical? Because it means a much bigger role for either Jaric or Telfair, two players that have been relied upon fairly significantly to handle point guard duties in the past two years and have failed miserably. Because putting Foye at the two increases the swingman glut that continues to dog this roster. Witt today claimed that he wants Ryan Gomes to get as comfortable at the 3 as he was last year at the 4. So if you have Gomes playing some 3 and Foye playing some 2, both on a regular basis, that necessarily robs minutes from Davis/McCants/Green/Buckner.

    As for the Wolves being a running team, the dirty little secret is that a transition game requires a quality ball distributor just as much as in the half-court game, and the Wolves, aside from the soon-to-be-departed Davis, are flat out of decent options there. Oh, and there is also this notion that all the Wolves’ need to crash the glass at both ends of the court, further retarding the running game. No, if the Wolves are smart, they’ll play a lot of dump and slash: Get the ball inside to Al Jefferson and otherwise rely on the slashing abilities of Foye, Davis, McCants, Green, and Brewer.

    By the way, Witt also mentioned that a few players tweaked their ankles today in practice–Jefferson and Green and Telfair–and might be doubtful for the Celtic tilt tomorrow. A conspiracy theorist might opine that the Wolves don’t want the current talent differential of their big trade to be quite so obvious out on the hardwood, although you could also argue that they have nothing to lose except maybe a little face. Anyway, McCants as of now is healthy enough to play and Craig Smith might be able to go–he engaged in a full practice today–but the coach sounded dubious on that count.

    On to the baseball playoffs. The first round was a real snooze. I called every series but of course was in deadline hell so nobody knew it (he mutters, kicking the ground). Now watch–I’ll blow the pick on both of these second round matchups, especially because I’m pretty confident of the winners, especially the ALCS.

    The key to the Boston-Cleveland series is the lack of lefties in the Red Sox rotation. The two most influential bats in the Indians lineup, Sizemore and Hafner, are both righty mashers. Yes, I know the numbers rebut this: Hafner hit below the Mendoza line versus Boston this season (ditto Victor Martinez), and Sizemore was merely .250, with 11 Ks in 28 ABs. But I think both will come up big in the clutch. Schilling and Beckett have both proven to be big game pitchers, but Dice-K is shakey, and unless Boston can go right from Beckett-Schilling to Okajima and Papelbon, I’m not convinced that Timlin/Gagne/Delcarmen can hold down the fort. Ditto the lefty Lopez.

    Meanwhile, Sabathia and Carmona are the best 1-2 in baseball right now, two bona fide aces. The only potential chink is the batting eyes of Youkilis-Ortiz-Manny-Drew: if Carmona nibbles too much and gets behind in the count, he’ll either get lucky and last only 5-6 innings because of his pitch count on the mistakes will result in runs. I also have a feeling Jake Westbrook has a hell of a game in him for this series. The guy lost quite a bit of time with injuries this season and thus should be fresher than usual, and he’s already gotten over that blip, the post-big contract jitters. Finally, Cleveland’s much maligned bullpen is better than Boston’s right now. Cleveland in six.

    The other league features two very hot NL West ballclubs whose seasons are already a fabulous success regardless of whether they win another game or not. Because of that circumstance, the first game is even more important than usual, as one club may feel they remain on the side of the gods while the other shrugs and considers it a good run to get this far. This is particularly true if the Rockies snatch Game One on the road.

    But I’m picking Arizona in 6 or 7 and the reason is Brandon Webb, the most unheralded great pitcher in the game today. Who knows that Webb is the reigning Cy Young Award winner? That he induces ground-outs as effectively as anyone in baseball right now? I think Webb is capable of a 3-0 series. Again, this prediction is based more on gut instinct than raw numbers. The Rockies have actually hit Webb very well this season, especially lefties Brad Hawpe and Kaz Matsui. Todd Helton less so this year, but in the past has murdered Webb. And Matt Holiday has posted decent numbers with a plus .800 OPS.

    No matter. It is the postseason and great pitchers rise to the occasion. Brandon Webb is a great pitcher. Meanwhile, Doug Davis (who had a nice comeback second half of the season) and Livan Hernandez should be able to pull out at least one and possible two games against the likes of Josh Fogg and Franklin Morales. Obviously, Colorado’s strength is in its offense and its bullpen, both of which are better than Arizona’s. The difference-maker will be Webb.

  • Men With Baggage

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    Hey guys, thought I’d point to this article, by an intrepid young writer at the Minnesota Daily, that riffs off my Men With Baggage spread from this month’s magazine. But he takes the topic a step further by actually dispensing with suggestions on how to find the right murse. Have a look-see.

  • In which I spaz about Yaz.

    Random thought related to the plight of womanhood: While watching mindless reality television last eve, I came across an ad for Yaz, a new birth control pill that also takes care the period’s pesky side symptoms, such as bloating, moodiness, acne, and fatigue. And, by the way, it’s one of those pills that can eliminate your period. All this, and it prevents pregnancy, too (I assume – the ad didn’t specify). At this point, I turn to my boyfriend, who’d be all-too-happy to have his woman on hormones (and who, in fact, wishes like hell I’d be compliant and just swallow the damn things) and say, “That seems like an irresponsible way to market the pill.”

    “Why?” he demanded. We’ve often sparred over the safety of oral contraceptives. Me, I’ve read plenty of earth-mother literature about the pill’s potential harms. And besides, I’ve tried three different types of pills in my lifetime, and I just haven’t liked how fragile I’ve felt. I much prefer my body and mind in their natural, un-medicated states even though, yes, I am prone to fits of bitchiness and bloating. (Diagnosis: Woman!) In any case, I ended up telling boyfriend that when he finally puts himself on a daily regimen of hormones (I’ll be fantasizing about his lost libido in the meanwhile), then I, too, will be happy to do so. The end.

    ADDENDUM: I hope and dream of the male birth control pill, which is currently in testing, curing such pesky side symptoms as anger, unrealistically high self-esteem, and horniness.

  • Red Stag: Wonder Women Rule

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    Imagine my surprise when I found out that the contractor who worked on my own tiny St. Louis Park house — doing everything from renovating the kitchen to replacing the automatic garage door when my teenage son backed the car through it — is also the person who’s helping Kim Bartmann — the innovative, blur-the-lines founder of Barbette and Bryant Lake Bowl — create Red Stag, soon to become the only LEED-certified restaurant in town.

    Her name is Lori Reese, and she runs a funky, homegrown company called Wonderwoman Construction that specializes in flexible design and salvage. She also, I’ve recently learned, used to play rugby with Bartmann at the U of M. And let me tell you, if I saw these two women coming at me with bloodthirst in their eyes, I’d be scared. Of course, I’m about five-foot-four in heels. . . .

    But I digress. LEED stands for Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design, and it’s the benchmark for the building and operation of “green” buildings. Restaurants are notorious energy hogs and wasters of everything from water to electricity to food. Red Stag is being built with features such as dual-flush toilets, LED lighting, and stove hoods that turn on only when their “sensors” detect a build-up of smoke and/or heat. They’re installing post-consumer recycled carpet that doesn’t off-gas and water heaters without tanks. Food will be locally sourced — reducing travel miles — and the plate scrapings composted.

    Bartmann says she loves the contrast of opening a traditional supper club with progressive values. Also, she points out, “Supper clubs are popular in rural places where people actually do care about the environment.”

    She’s been scouting a location for a third restaurant for a couple years now. Bartmann almost bought Bobino, then thought about the former Boom space (now the Bulldog-NE), but when she saw this old mechanical shop at 509 1st Avenue NE, she fell in love. “It was affordable, it had parking, and it’s a really solid-ass old building,” she says.

    Reese predicts Bartmann will spend a little over 10 percent more on construction than if she were using conventional materials and methods to build Red Stag. But the cost, Reese says, may be recouped in as little as 18 months, given the savings on utility bills. “It’s a longer curve for residential,” she says. “You don’t make back your investment so fast because you’re not using so much energy. But in a restaurant, the energy bills tend to be 30 to 40 percent of your overall operating costs. So everything we’re doing should make a huge difference.”

    But what about the food? The actual restaurant part of things? That’s where chef Bill Baskin, formerly of the spaceship-stylish Cosmos, comes in. Here, he’s planning a menu of “contemporized comfort food:” veal casserole, chicken and dumplings, a meat plate with game cooked three different ways (e.g. fried, braised, and smoked). The bar will be all about pickles, including pickled pigs feet, which Baskin, who’s originally from Texas, says they’re going to “give a go and see what Minnesota says.”

    Lunch will include a lot of quick pick-up sandwiches and salads, for the downtown working crowd. One recipe Baskin was willing to share was a “deconstructed” Waldorf salad (entirely vegan) with celeriac, julienned apples, walnuts, smoked raisins, and fried mushroom chips. He’ll be serving a brunch on Sunday that’s a bit more conventional: French toast, chicken fried steak, “and maybe” — he flashes a grin “green eggs and ham.”

    Right now, the 100-seat restaurant is only a frame. But assuming Reese and Bartmann keep moving — and don’t take a break to rough it up on the rugby field — Red Stag will open to the public in early November. And I have no doubt it will happen. These wonder women seem to be able to get anything done.

  • Writing Our Worlds

    BOOKS & AUTHORS
    Raking Through Books

    RakingthroughBooks.gifJoin us this evening for our happy hour book club, Raking through Books. This month, enjoy the company of a group of local mystery writers: Carl Brookins, Pat Dennis, Michael Allan Mallory, David Housewright, Judith Yates Borger, Scott Pearson, and Joel Arnold. All of these writers contributed to the recent Resort to Murder anthology. Resort to Murder continues in the same tradition as Nodin Press’s Silence of the Loons, with some of the state’s best writers delivering creepy, spine-tingling tales all of which are set at Minnesota vacation resorts. Stories far more haunting than the cry of a loon, and crimes more lethal than a lump of lutefisk.

    5:30 to 7 p.m., Kieran’s Irish Pub, 330 2nd Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-339-4499; free.

    Outsiders Within

    1007OutsideWithin.gifIn all the hype about Brangelina’s many adoptive children, in all the accusations launched at Madonna for not going through the proper adoption channels, in all the righteous indignation directed to and from stars regarding trans-country adoptions, the one thing we never really hear about is the effects on the children. As the tabloids continue their long overdone jokes about Maddox’s kick-ass ways, when have they stopped to consider how this young boy will feel growing up in the upper crust of white America, under the scrutiny of the public eye? This is the subject of Outsiders Within: Writings on Trans-Racial Adoption — not Maddox, of course, but the emotional, cultural, and economic effects of trans-racial adoption. Tonight you can learn more about the matter, and the book, from co-editor Sun Yung Shin.

    7:30 p.m., Magers and Quinn Booksellers, 3038 Hennepin Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-822-4611; free.

    Glocalism

    1007Here.gifAlong a similar — though broader, yet more local — note, Here: A Global Citizen’s Journey reflects on Minnesota’s connection to the rest of the world, painting a portrait rife with foreign flavors and marked by global economic, social, and environmental trends. Nothing happens independently of the world within which it happens; not even here in Minnesota; not even in Rochester, Minnesota, home of author Douglas McGill. Former New York Times reporter and current editor of The McGill Report blog, McGill has written about human rights, genocide, immigration, and assimilation to American society. Meet him this afternoon, and have him sign your copy of his book following the discussion.

    2 p.m., University of Minnesota Bookstore, Coffman Memorial Union, 300 Washington Ave. S.E., Minneapolis; 612-626-0559; free.

    COMEDY
    He’ll Fire You, then Make You Laugh

    1007Madrigal.gifAlthough, Al Madrigal claims to have known at an early age that comedy was his calling, it took him quite some time to follow his dream and break into the business. I guess ten years at the family’s human resources business made him realize that a little spice of life might be worth the risk. So he left behind the hiring and the firing, and set out to sell himself, one joke at a time. Finally, in 2004, Madrigal got himself noticed at the Aspen Comedy Festival, winning the jury award for best stand-up performer. Something tells me he’s good for a laugh.

    8 p.m., Acme Comedy Company, 708 N. First St., Minneapolis; 612-338-6393; $15.

    THEATER & PERFORMANCE
    Whistle Down the Wind

    Andrew Lloyd Webber fans are in for a real treat tonight, with the opening of Whistle Down the Wind, a musical about three Louisiana orphans who find a mysterious stranger hiding in their barn. Based on the novel of the same name by Mary Hayley Bell, and set to the music of Jim Steinman, the narrative sets the three children against the townspeople, as they vow to protect the felon from the outside world. Why? Well, they think he’s Jesus, of course.

    8 p.m., Ordway Center for the Performing Arts, 345 Washington St., St. Paul; 651-224-4222; $20-$55.

  • A Little Perspective on That Gas Tax Poll

    The Star Tribune’s Minnesota Poll, now out-sourced to New Jersey, has been in heavy play this past week. For decades a valuable snapshot of Minnesota attitudes, the Poll, as many of you know, was seriously down-sized under McClatchy ownership and “right-sized” into oblivion by Avista Capital Partners. The Poll’s most recent director, Rob Daves, was dismissed this year, the office shuttered and all institutional memory pretty well vacated.

    With interim publisher, Chris Harte, cautioning his editorial section to avoid wild-hair liberal notions like calling for sufficient revenue to actually maintain the infrastructure we’ve got, I was intrigued to see that the question, “Would you be willing to pay more in gasoline taxes in order to pay for increased inspection and repair of bridges”, produced a 46%/50% yes/no verdict from the public. Though reporter Pat Doyle noted that that breakout falls within the 4% plus-or-minus margin of error, meaning you could if you wanted see a split decision, the usual suspects jumped on the “no vote” to affirm their campaigns to keep Minnesota’s finances just the way they are … or at the very worst shift some cash from all those lavish public schools and over-paid teachers to freeway construction.

    Proper allocation and all that, you know.

    Every poll depends on who you ask and how you phrase the question. In this case, the “Minnesota Poll”, contracted out to New Jersey-based Princeton Survey Research Associates, emphasized the hot-button word “bridge”, whereas polls conducted in 2004 and 2005 and at various times through the late ’80s and ’90s emphasized either “road improvements” or “road maintenance”.

    Anti-tax crusaders and other status quo tub-thumpers will remain gleeful with the verdict because they can continue to make the argument that even after “goosing” the question with the word “bridge”, the pro-tax crowd “only” registered 46%, give or take 4%.

    But if you dial back through the history of Minnesota Polls asking residents/voters about gas tax increases, it is interesting how thinking has changed, or not, over the last two decades. For example, in 1987 the yes/no split was 46%/48%. In 1990 it was 52%/45%. In 1993, 66%/32%. By 2005 it had drifted back to 41%/55%.

    While 2007’s 46%/50% can be read as public sentiment against a gas tax increase, you could just as easily have said, “Public shows small increase in acceptance of gas tax hike,” based on approval moving up from 41% to 46% in the past two years.

    Or … if you really wanted to stick a wrench in the spokes of the “non-partisan” Taxpayers’ League you could could point to the 2004 Minnesota Poll, which was conducted while Gov. Pawlenty and his transportation guru, Carol Molnau, were floating the idea of leasing out Twin Cities’ freeways to private contractors and charging tolls. In that context only 23% of Minnesotans favored increasing the gas tax.

    With that in mind you could have had a headline on Sunday’s poll saying something like, “Support for gas tax increase doubles since ’04”, and been correct, technically.

    I called Rob Daves, still here in Minnesota and busy assembling soon-to-launch Daves & Associates Research. He had only positive things to say about Princeton Survey. “Great firm. They do excellent work.”

    He had been out of town this past weekend and hadn’t seen the gas tax poll. I read him the question as asked.

    He offered that readers might have gotten a truer historical comparison had the gas tax question been asked the same way it always has, or at the very least, been subjected to a “split-ballot sample”, where half the 800-1200 respondents were asked the “road improvements” questions and the other half the “bridge” question.

    That didn’t happen. So what we’re left with is a more or less an even split on the question of raising the gas tax, which is sufficiently fertile turf for legislation this winter. I mean, anytime you can get half the voters saying they’ll pay more you’ve got more than adequate
    political cover.

  • Salty Sweet

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    I have an undeniable craving for salty sweet. It may be more intense during certain times: when I feel defined as a chauffer, when I’ve been bickering with the hub, when the days are so crammed with everyone else’s business there’s no time to breathe.

    Salted caramels, a pretzel stick jammed into a pint of Sonny’s cinnamon ice cream, roasted veg tossed with maple butter and sage … Balance and centering, oddly found this weekend in Trader Joe’s Sea Salt Brownies. Not content with using a mere sprinkle of salt, these dense chocolate chunks are riddled with big, crunchy flakes of sea salt. Just when the richness is about to swing you over, a tangy cut of salt brings you back.

    As I write this I’m late for the day … but whatever.

  • Paris to Barcelona

    Me and the missus decided to celebrate five years of married bliss by going back to the scene of the crime, Paris, France. We had gone out on a few dates in the spring of 2000, before I went off for a fellowship at Oxford. We kept in touch during the spring by email, and when the term ended, we rendezvoused in the City of Light. Not much happened in Paris that would make for exciting reading – we toured the markets together, made dinner together, smooched a little on the couch of a friend’s borrowed apartment in the 13th Arrondissement, and somehow the spark got struck.

    Given the utter improbability of us finding each other, getting hitched, and actually staying in love for five years, we probably should have gone to Lourdes to give thanks, but we went instead on a meandering trip through the countryside. We stopped in the Loire Valley and Burgundy to visit old friends, and then headed to the Dordogne, home of truffles, ducks, geese and foie gras.

    Foie gras seemed to be on nearly every menu in Dordogne, and I will confess that I ate my share: a big tranche of foie gras as an entree at L’Os a Moelle in Paris; roast quail over foie gras at La Recreation in Les Arques, foie gras and artichoke heart at La Belle Etoile in Roque-Gageot. It’s a very sensuous taste experience – with a flavor both impossibly rich and extremely delicate.

    It’s also a touchy subject on this side of the Atlantic – the city of Chicago has banned it from restaurants, and the state of California has set a deadline of 2012 to end production and sales of the fatty bird livers. The charge is cruelty, since the birds are force-fed a high-salt diet to produce the delicacy.

    I’m in sympathy with the motivations of animal rights activists, and I eat a lot less meat than I used to. I try to support the restaurants that serve humanely and sustainably produced meats. But based on everything I have read, I am not convinced that the force-feeding of ducks and geese (gavage in French) causes nearly as much suffering as the meat production practices that are routine on factory farms, especially in the US. In the Dordogne, local farmstead producers even offer farm tours, with tasting of their products, and demonstrations of gavage. You’ll have a hard time finding a commercial producer of pork, beef or eggs in the US willing to let consumers see how their animals are treated.

    At any rate, I didn’t take notes on my dining experiences – I promised Carol that this wouldn’t be a working vacation – so now a lot of wonderful food swims in my memory as a diffuse fog of recollected pleasure – succulent lobster ravioli in a langoustine sauce at La Recreation, a hearty plate of steak tartare in a Paris bistro; magret de canard medium rare with tender cheese quenelles at the Belle Etoile.

    One meal was a pilgrimage – a few years ago, I had read Michael Sanders’ book, From Here You Can’t See Paris: Seasons of A French Village and Its Restaurant, about a struggling village in the Lot whose inhabitants recruited a young chef from Marseille to turn their abandoned schoolhouse into a destination restaurant. When I discovered that the village, Les Arques, was near our route, we made a point of a lunchtime visit. The 30 Euro ($42) five course prix fixe menu was one of the gastronomic highlights of our trip, with highlights including lobster ravioli in a langoustine sauce, scallops in passionfruit sauce, medallions of monkfish with stuffed zucchini blossoms, and a sublime nougat glace.

    Our final destination was Barcelona. Barcelona is just a short train ride from the French border, but the culinary culture is vastly different. Catalan cooking isn’t as delicate or sophisticated as French cuisine, but what it lacks in delicacy, it makes up for in robust flavor. If in France, food is a religion, in Catalonia it is a sport. Our best meal in Barcelona – our anniversary dinner, actually -was a perfectly seafood paella for two at the venerable Set Portes, the oldest restaurant in the city. But perhaps the most memorable meal was a late-night outing for tapas at La Flauta on Balmes. At 11 p.m., every table in the dining room was taken, with a line as long as the tapas bar of eager customers waiting for a seat – and diners were still arriving when we left around midnight. The dishes we sampled, like an eggplant tortilla (a kind of frittata), a shrimp salad, patatas bravas (fried potatoes with a spicy tomato sauce), offered robust flavors that matched the energy level of the diners.

    I don’t want to stereotype Catalan cuisine as hearty but unsophisticated, though that’s just the kind of food that we sought out. Catalonia is actually at the cutting edge of world gastronomy, thanks to such celebrated chefs as Ferran Adria at El Bulli; neurologist-chef Miguel Sanchez Romera at L’Esguard, and Quique Dacosta at El Poblet. (To get a sense of the direction in which these chefs are taking cuisine as art form, spend a little time surfing the El Poblet website.)
    I didn’t even try to get reservations for any of these gastronomic pilgrimage sites; reportedly El Bulli gets 300,000 calls for reservations every year, and its hopeless unless you call many months in advance. Maybe if I start dialing now, I can get a reservation in time for our tenth…

  • The wine-soaked writing life

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    (Pulitzer prize-winning author,
    William Styron)

    I finished another novel last week. But this means little.

    It means I awakened at 6:30 a.m. for two years or so — on holidays, my birthday, every morning but the one my husband and I camped on our honeymoon — went immediately to the computer while my saturated dream state remained, and wrote for an hour and a half before starting my day. It means when I found myself sitting with 450 double-spaced pages of a story that crystallized in surprising ways, I shipped it off to my agent — a New Yorker whom I’ve met only three times — and now I’m waiting for his response. Waiting.

    Experience with my first novel taught me that even if someone does pick up your book, some caring editor who shepherds it through the cut-throat global publishing scene and commissions beautiful cover art and publicizes it even though you, its author, are a complete unknown from the Midwest, it doesn’t mean you will become famous or wealthy. It only means there exists this knowledge that such a thing can happen. You can dream up characters and fall in love with them, put them into strange, wonderful, and unlikely situations, draw them out on paper in arbitrary symbols, sending them forth to touch people you’ll never meet. It’s pretty cool.

    It’s also hell. Did I mention I’m waiting. . . .? Waiting, waiting. Oh, and waiting. Which is excruciating, by the way. But apparently, this writing life is hard no matter who — or how great — you are.

    Recently, when someone close to me was being treated for depression, I re-read William Styron’s memoir Darkness Visible, in an attempt to understand what my friend was going through. The first time I encountered this book, it made an impression on me because it described with such visceral power the dark hole of depression. One almost enters the illness while reading Styron and wonders if, simply by putting the book down, it will be possible to emerge. It’s a terrifying experience, which I had on the second reading as well.

    But this time, another thread in the book caught me: Styron’s nearly Gothic description of the relationship between wine, aging, depression and art. This passage, for instance —

    The storm which swept me into a hospital in December began as a cloud no bigger than a wine goblet the previous June. And the cloud — the manifest crisis — involved alcohol, a substance I had been abusing for forty years. Like a great many American writers, whose sometimes lethal addiction to alcohol has become so legendary as to provide in itself a stream of studies and books, I used alcohol as the magical conduit to fantasy and euphoria, and to the enhancement of my imagination. There is no need to either rue or apologize for my use of this soothing, often sublime agent, which had contributed greatly to my writing; although I never set down a line while under its influence, I did use it — often in conjunction with music — as a means to let my mind conceive visions that the unaltered, sober brain has no access to. Alcohol was an invaluable senior partner of my intellect, besides being a friend whose ministrations I sought daily — sought also, I now see, as a means to calm the anxiety and incipient dread that I had hidden away for so long somewhere in the dungeons of my spirit.

    The trouble was, at the beginning of this particular summer, that I was betrayed. It struck me quite suddenly, almost overnight: I could no longer drink.

    That there is a connection between my wine drinking and my writing seemed likely, though it was not until I read Styron’s words that I truly understood what it might be. He goes on, in Darkness Visible, to plot out what happens once he is — for whatever reason — sickened by alcohol. A fog seizes his mind. A malaise settles over his soul. He cannot think, he cannot write. He becomes remote and suicidal. He loses all hope.

    I cannot say what the moral of this story might be. Styron recovered from the depression he wrote about so starkly but fell into another, even more profound, later in life and had to be treated with electro-convulsive therapy (ECT). He died of pneumonia, at the age of 81, in November of last year.

    “The good writing of any age has always been the product of someone’s neurosis,” Styron once said. And he lived it as well.

    I take some small comfort in the fact that I’m doing my part. Drinking my wine. Writing my stories. Letting neurosis dance freely across the surface of my sober morning brain. And waiting. . . .