Jasmine 26: A Second Look

We had a delightful dinner at Jasmine 26 last night — a
dramatic improvement over my visits last summer, shortly after the Vietnamese
bistro at 26th and Nicollet opened its doors. Most of the Vietnamese
staples are offered, like the spring rolls and egg rolls, and pho, for a dollar
or two more than you might spent at Quang or Pho Tau Bay, or at the original
Jasmine Deli, kitty-corner at 2532 Nicollet, but Jasmine 26 has a lot more to
offer — including a date-worthy Zen atmosphere, a full bar, and a more varied
menu that ranges from sweet potato shrimp toast and a lively banana blossom
salad to grilled lemongrass baby back ribs and caramelized catfish served in a
clay pot ($15).

The appetizer of sea
salt and pepper cubed tofu ($6), deep-fried and crispy on the outside, silky on
the inside, is worth the trip all by itself, and the lettuce rolls with shrimp,
egg, mint and cucumber, tied in a bundle with fresh cilantro are a fresh and
light variation on the usual spring rolls. The usual noodle stir-fries and
noodle salads are offered ($10-$12), along with some less familiar options –
including grilled shrimp tossed with fat udon-style noodles in a very rich and
savory coconut cream sauce. My bowl of beef stew with carrots and potatoes
wasn’t quite as lively as the version I had recently at Quang’s, but still good
enough to be enjoyable. We barely had room for the dessert – tart slices of
ripe mango in coconut over sticky rice.

A couple of beers and wines – including Sapporo and Kirin on
tap, and an Australian cabernet and chardonnay are offered for $3 a glass.After 10 p.m., there’s an expanded list of wine, beer and sake for $3 a glass, plus bargain-priced appetizers, sandwiches and salads (all $4), and noodle dishes and soups ($6).

Jasmine 26, 26th & Nicollet, 612-870-3800.


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