It has a refreshingly prosaic name — CMS Red — and a label that reminds me somehow of industrial equipment, with a stamp certifying it’s been approved by the Washington Wine Quality Alliance. But this wine is, in fact, a canny blend produced by Hedges Cellars, a mom-and-pop shop located on Red Mountain in Washington’s Yakima Valley, that sells locally for $9-12 a bottle. CMS stands for Cabernet (39%), Merlot (57%), and Syrah (4%) — an acronym of an appellation. And there’s an equally basic white version, as well (CMS White, what else?) that’s made from Chardonnay (44%), Marsanne (2%), and Sauvignon Blanc (54%).
I haven’t tried the white, but CMS Red is one of those wines I keep on hand as back-up. It’s big and fruity, full of blackberry and cherry, vanilla, clove, caramel and cassis. The quality of the flavor is very young: there’s no mysterious alchemy of dusty cigar box and oak here. But the finish is respectable, leaving a hint of anise in its wake. I wouldn’t serve CMS at a formal dinner party, but it’s perfect for a 4th of July barbecue. And if you have a few bottles left over, stow them for a year or so. Peter Hedges’ notes claim this blend was specially formulated to age well. Given his track record with finer wines, I believe it.
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