Oktober Wine from Germany and Spain

Earlier this week, I received a note from a reader who wanted me to recommend a German Riesling for her office Oktoberfest celebration. I was stumped.

If you lined up all the varietals in the world from goal post to goal post on a football field — jammy, dark, South American Malbecs at one end and extra-sweet, sparkly whites at the other — I would drink from the 20-yard-line in on either side. In other words, I don’t have a favorite Riesling.

So I dropped by Sam’s Wine Shop in the North Loop to ask Sam [Haislet] himself. He likes a wine called St. Urbans-Hof Riesling 2006 and described it as a “kabinett-level” German white that’s balanced and not too sweet.

While I was there, he gave me a taste of one of this month’s specials: the Con Class Rueda Blanc 2005, which Sam’s is selling for $8.97. This was a 35-yard-line wine: full and floral with very little acid, the taste of gardenias, ripe melon, and grass. It’s made from 100% Verdejo grapes, a native Spanish varietal related to Sauvignon Blanc, and has 12.5% alcohol (which is hot, for a white).

According to Haislet, the region of Rueda recently passed a law that only white grapes can use the appellation, because it is — apparently — a territory unsuited for growing red. He was impressed enough with the Con Class to buy 10 cases and says it’s so popular he’s about to pick up a dozen more. So if you’re interested in a bottle, act fast.