What About Muffuletta?

My esteemed colleague Ann Bauer is one tough critic. Last month, she claimed that there were only two restaurants in Saint Paul where you can get a decent upscale meal – I Nonni and Heartland, and in her most recent blog posting (see below) – she added Zander Cafe to the list.

My list is a little longer – I’d rate Muffuletta as one of the best restaurants on either side of the river. Chef J.D. Fratzke’s ever-changing menu combines local ingredients and global influences in dishes such as Moroccan spice-rubbed beef short ribs with preserved lemon relish, or pan-seared Arctic char with braised leeks, wild mushrooms, prosciutto and lobster-citrus sauce.

And what about Jay’s Cafe? The decor may be too modest, and the prices too reasonable, to qualify as “upscale,” but I have thoroughly enjoyed chef-owner Jay Randolph’s’ Midwestern cuisine. I’ve also had some pretty decent meals at Cafe Biaggio, Pazzaluna, and the Downtowner Woodfire Grill, though I haven’t dined at any of them very recently.

I do share Ann’s preference for contemporary creative cuisine, but when I am in the mood for classic Americana, The Lexington serves up a perfectly decent dining experience.