Which camp are you in?
A: Truffles are earthy little pungent gifts from the ground that should be prized and savored in a meaningful and creative dish.
B: Truffles are overrated bits of hype that chefs use to glam their menus while hiding their technical failings.
Honestly, sometimes I’m in both camps at the same time. I remember my first truffle dish: it was a creamy and soft celery root soup with a black truffle shaving that I had at Gramercy Tavern. Beautiful and subtle, the flavors were never ostentatious or showy. On the other side of the spectrum, I later ate truffle and foie gras ravioli at Ca L’Isidre in Spain. It is one of those taste-memories that I carry with me and is recalled everytime I even smell truffle oil. Lucky me.
But I do recognize the trend of using truffle oil and truffle butter as being a little too easy. Yes, it brings the flavor to the home cook without all the fuss, of that I am glad. I just can’t abide certain chefs who think that it should be a feature in every dish, found on the menu of a recent restaurant visit at least twelve times. It looks foolish and amature.
Anyhoo.
Today and tomorrow you will be able to buy authentic Italian tuffles sourced by the Urbani family. Friday from Noon to 6pm at Byerly’s in Edina and Saturday from 9am to 3pm at Byerly’s in St. Louis Park. The gems will be sold in .03 pound increments at market price.
I might just grab a cup of coffee and go to watch the bum rush … if it happens.
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