Author: rakemag

  • Rage

    Forgive the late entry today. I was busy with the day job.

    I had the pleasure of meeting Betsy Brown last week. She’s a real poet, and I tried to get her to stay for another glass of wine and recite a bit for me, but she had to go. She graciously sent this along to me though, and so I thought I’d graciously pass it along to you.

    She told me she’d written it about her sister, who’d been found to have breast cancer. We have some of that in our family, too, and it was a sad but sweet pleasure to read Betsy’s poem.

    Rage by Betsy Brown

    In 1764, a herding dog lunged out
    of her fields to ravage the French village
    of Thiers, attacking twenty people

    and infecting them fiercely with
    pre-Pasteurian rabies, called rage
    by the French. You traveled to Paris

    to study the original printings
    of these stories: the victims doomed,
    the pages onion-skin parchment

    too frail to copy, sometimes too precious
    to open, the bitten first numbed
    with knowing what’s coming, then

    as they say, enraged, terrified of water,
    convulsant, apologetic about how much
    they wanted to bite their Parisian

    doctor, who bled them and burned
    the fanged gouges with steel and mercury.
    In the Fifth Arrondissement, your

    fine tall library, your walk daily through
    Luxembourg gardens and all the slim
    streets past high black iron gates,

    shuttered window panes; they put
    the victims in a huge vacant hospice
    and separated those who became

    hydrophobic: Eh Monsieur, I see clearly
    that I am lost, they place me in this
    unfortunate room, from which no one returns.

    In 18th century France, rage patients
    sought miracle cures at the shrine
    of St.-Hubert, the priests worked

    to keep that pilgrimage active,
    and all the scholars fought about
    the passions and the morals of the dead.

    I’m sorry I had to take you home
    from Paris. It was snowing and you
    were crying. All the mad strangled

    rabid patients carried us, remember,
    back to Baltimore; you wanted
    to save them, we brought our offerings

    to radiologists, we applied to oncologists —
    we were all ghosts and stories
    about walks to the health food store

    and the ways people so deeply numbed
    find to talk about a future. In Thiers,
    the 12-year old boy just simply

    could not drink the water. He shattered
    the cup and convulsed so violently
    they tied him to the bed. Tonight

    in a tiny lamplit apartment in Paris,
    a reader sits riveted by the newspaper —
    all these stories ending with life.

  • The Best of the Best

    It would be a bit silly to come near the end of this month of poems without hearing a bit from the Bard. Here is Sonnet 116; a little bit from Antony and Cleopatra that once struck me hard; and the famous speech from Henry V that lent title to a damn good book about World War II.

    Note the common theme of death, entwined, like the asp, with that of love. Great stuff.

    Sonnet 116 by William Shakespeare

    Let me not to the marriage of true minds
    Admit impediments. Love is not love
    Which alters when it alteration finds,
    Or bends with the remover to remove:
    O no! it is an ever-fixed mark
    That looks on tempests and is never shaken;
    It is the star to every wandering bark,
    Whose worth’s unknown, although his height be taken.
    Love’s not Time’s fool, though rosy lips and cheeks
    Within his bending sickle’s compass come:
    Love alters not with his brief hours and weeks,
    But bears it out even to the edge of doom.
    If this be error and upon me proved,
    I never writ, nor no man ever loved.

    Cleopatra’s death speech from Antony and Cleopatra, Act V

    Give me my robe, put on my crown; I have
    Immortal longings in me: now no more
    The juice of Egypt’s grape shall moist this lip:
    Yare, yare, good Iras; quick. Methinks I hear
    Antony call; I see him rouse himself
    To praise my noble act; I hear him mock
    The luck of Caesar, which the gods give men
    To excuse their after wrath: husband, I come:
    Now to that name my courage prove my title!
    I am fire and air; my other elements
    I give to baser life. So; have you done?
    Come then, and take the last warmth of my lips.
    Farewell, kind Charmian; Iras, long farewell.

    Kisses them. IRAS falls and dies

    Have I the aspic in my lips? Dost fall?
    If thou and nature can so gently part,
    The stroke of death is as a lover’s pinch,
    Which hurts, and is desired. Dost thou lie still?
    If thus thou vanishest, thou tell’st the world
    It is not worth leave-taking.

    Finally, the more masculine warrior, Henry V

    If we are mark’d to die, we are enow
    To do our country loss; and if to live,
    The fewer men, the greater share of honour.
    God’s will! I pray thee, wish not one man more.
    By Jove, I am not covetous for gold,
    Nor care I who doth feed upon my cost;
    It yearns me not if men my garments wear;
    Such outward things dwell not in my desires:
    But if it be a sin to covet honour,
    I am the most offending soul alive.
    No, faith, my coz, wish not a man from England:
    God’s peace! I would not lose so great an honour
    As one man more, methinks, would share from me
    For the best hope I have. O, do not wish one more!
    Rather proclaim it, Westmoreland, through my host,
    That he which hath no stomach to this fight,
    Let him depart; his passport shall be made
    And crowns for convoy put into his purse:
    We would not die in that man’s company
    That fears his fellowship to die with us.
    This day is called the feast of Crispian:
    He that outlives this day, and comes safe home,
    Will stand a tip-toe when the day is named,
    And rouse him at the name of Crispian.
    He that shall live this day, and see old age,
    Will yearly on the vigil feast his neighbours,
    And say ‘To-morrow is Saint Crispian:’
    Then will he strip his sleeve and show his scars.
    And say ‘These wounds I had on Crispin’s day.’
    Old men forget: yet all shall be forgot,
    But he’ll remember with advantages
    What feats he did that day: then shall our names.
    Familiar in his mouth as household words
    Harry the king, Bedford and Exeter,
    Warwick and Talbot, Salisbury and Gloucester,
    Be in their flowing cups freshly remember’d.
    This story shall the good man teach his son;
    And Crispin Crispian shall ne’er go by,
    From this day to the ending of the world,
    But we in it shall be remember’d;
    We few, we happy few, we band of brothers;
    For he to-day that sheds his blood with me
    Shall be my brother; be he ne’er so vile,
    This day shall gentle his condition:
    And gentlemen in England now a-bed
    Shall think themselves accursed they were not here,
    And hold their manhoods cheap whiles any speaks
    That fought with us upon Saint Crispin’s day.

  • Sentience and sensuality

    This one was suggested by a friend of mine who happens to be a Catholic priest. It seems at first a bit voluptuous for a priest’s taste, but as a friend once said, “They can think about it, they just can’t do it.”

    But, come down to the last stanzas and see the reconciliation of the body with the philosophy and it makes sense why my friend would like this. He is a man, after all, and a prodigious intellect, to boot. All the better to enjoy all that good poetry has to offer.

    Peter Quince at the Clavier, by Wallace Stevens

    I

    Just as my fingers on these keys
    Make music, so the self-same sounds
    On my spirit make a music, too.
    Music is feeling, then, not sound;
    And thus it is that what I feel,
    Here in this room, desiring you,

    Thinking of your blue-shadowed silk,
    Is music. It is like the strain
    Waked in the elders by Susanna;

    Of a green evening, clear and warm,
    She bathed in her still garden, while
    The red-eyed elders, watching, felt

    The basses of their beings throb
    In witching chords, and their thin blood
    Pulse pizzicati of Hosanna.

    II

    In the green water, clear and warm,
    Susanna lay.
    She searched
    The touch of springs,
    And found
    Concealed imaginings.
    She sighed,
    For so much melody.

    Upon the bank, she stood
    In the cool
    Of spent emotions.
    She felt, among the leaves,
    The dew
    Of old devotions.

    She walked upon the grass,
    Still quavering.
    The winds were like her maids,
    On timid feet,
    Fetching her woven scarves,
    Yet wavering.

    A breath upon her hand
    Muted the night.
    She turned —
    A cymbal crashed,
    Amid roaring horns.

    III

    Soon, with a noise like tambourines,
    Came her attendant Byzantines.

    They wondered why Susanna cried
    Against the elders by her side;

    And as they whispered, the refrain
    Was like a willow swept by rain.

    Anon, their lamps’ uplifted flame
    Revealed Susanna and her shame.

    And then, the simpering Byzantines
    Fled, with a noise like tambourines.

    IV

    Beauty is momentary in the mind —
    The fitful tracing of a portal;
    But in the flesh it is immortal.

    The body dies; the body’s beauty lives.
    So evenings die, in their green going,
    A wave, interminably flowing.
    So gardens die, their meek breath scenting
    The cowl of winter, done repenting.
    So maidens die, to the auroral
    Celebration of a maiden’s choral.

    Susanna’s music touched the bawdy strings
    Of those white elders; but, escaping,
    Left only Death’s ironic scraping.
    Now, in its immortality, it plays
    On the clear viol of her memory,
    And makes a constant sacrament of praise.

  • Setting the Table

    Another from Ted Hughes today, from The Birthday Poems, his last book before dying, and the long awaited answer to Sylvia Plath’s Collected Poems. It’s a bit pathetic, as he claims to have wanted to be her support…and the one who suggested she write about her father.

    Ted Hughes won all the awards and was the English Poet Laureate. But he spent all that effort to build but a nice coal fire on earth while Sylvia was a white star in the heavens. Work’s no substitute for genius, I fear.

    Daddy, by Plath, is below.

    The Table by Ted Hughes

    I wanted to make you a solid writing-table
    That would last a lifetime.
    I bought a broad elm plank two inches thick,
    The wild bark surfing along one edge of it,
    Rough-cut for coffin timber. Coffin elm
    Finds a new life, with its corpse,
    Drowned in the waters of earth. It gives the dead
    Protection for a slightly longer voyage
    Than beech or ash or pine might. With a plane
    I revealed a perfect landing pad
    For your inspiration. I did not
    Know I had made and fitted a door
    Opening downwards into your Daddy’s grave.

    You bent over it, euphoric
    With your Nescafe every morning.
    Like an animal, smelling the wild air.
    Listening into its own ailment,
    Then finding the exact herb.
    It did not take you long
    To divine in the elm, following your pen,
    The words that would open it. Incredulous
    I saw rise throught it, in broad daylight,
    Your Daddy resurrected,
    Blue-eyed, that German cuckoo
    Still calling the hour,
    Impersonating your whole memory.
    He limped up through it
    Into our house. While I slept he snuggled
    Shivering between us. Turning to touch me
    You recognized him. ‘Wait!’ I said. ‘Wait!
    What’s this?’ My incomprehension
    Deafened by his language — a German
    Outside my wavelengths. I woke wildly
    Into a deeper sleep. And I sleepwalked
    Like an actor with his script
    Blindfold through the looking glass. I embraced
    Lady Death, your rival,
    As if the role were written on my eyelids
    In letters of phosphorus. With your arms locked
    Round him, in joy, he took you
    Down through the elm door.
    He had got what he wanted.
    I woke up on the empty stage with the props,
    The paltry painted masks. And the script
    Ripped up and scattered, its code scrambled,
    Like the blades and slivers
    Of a shattered mirror.

    And now your peanut-crunchers can stare
    At the ink-stains, the sigils
    Where you engraved your letters to him
    Cursing and imploring. No longer a desk.
    No longer a door. Once more simply a board.
    The roof of a coffin
    Detached in the violence
    From your upward gaze.
    It bobbed back to the surface —
    It washed up, far side of the Atlantic,
    A curio,
    Scoured of the sweat I soaked into
    Finding your father for you and then
    Leaving you to him.

    Daddy by Sylvia Plath

    You do not do, you do not do
    Any more, black shoe

    In which I have lived like a foot
    For thirty years, poor and white,
    Barely daring to breathe or Achoo.

    Daddy, I have had to kill you.
    You died before I had time —-
    Marble-heavy, a bag full of God,
    Ghastly statue with one gray toe
    Big as a Frisco seal

    And a head in the freakish Atlantic
    Where it pours bean green over blue
    In the waters off the beautiful Nauset.
    I used to pray to recover you.
    Ach, du.

    In the German tongue, in the Polish town
    Scraped flat by the roller
    Of wars, wars, wars.
    But the name of the town is common.
    My Polack friend

    Says there are a dozen or two.
    So I never could tell where you
    Put your foot, your root,
    I never could talk to you.
    The tongue stuck in my jaw.

    It stuck in a barb wire snare.
    Ich, ich, ich, ich,
    I could hardly speak.
    I thought every German was you.
    And the language obscene

    An engine, an engine,
    Chuffing me off like a Jew.
    A Jew to Dachau, Auschwitz, Belsen.
    I began to talk like a Jew.
    I think I may well be a Jew.

    The snows of the Tyrol, the clear beer of Vienna
    Are not very pure or true.
    With my gypsy ancestress and my weird luck
    And my Taroc pack and my Taroc pack
    I may be a bit of a Jew.

    I have always been scared of you,
    With your Luftwaffe, your gobbledygoo.
    And your neat mustache
    And your Aryan eye, bright blue.
    Panzer-man, panzer-man, O You —-

    Not God but a swastika
    So black no sky could squeak through.
    Every woman adores a Fascist,
    The boot in the face, the brute
    Brute heart of a brute like you.

    You stand at the blackboard, daddy,
    In the picture I have of you,
    A cleft in your chin instead of your foot
    But no less a devil for that, no not
    Any less the black man who

    Bit my pretty red heart in two.
    I was ten when they buried you.
    At twenty I tried to die
    And get back, back, back to you.
    I thought even the bones would do.

    But they pulled me out of the sack,
    And they stuck me together with glue.
    And then I knew what to do.
    I made a model of you,
    A man in black with a Meinkampf look

    And a love of the rack and the screw.
    And I said I do, I do.
    So daddy, I’m finally through.
    The black telephone’s off at the root,
    The voices just can’t worm through.

    If I’ve killed one man, I’ve killed two —-
    The vampire who said he was you
    And drank my blood for a year,
    Seven years, if you want to know.
    Daddy, you can lie back now.

    There’s a stake in your fat black heart
    And the villagers never liked you.
    They are dancing and stamping on you.
    They always knew it was you.
    Daddy, daddy, you bastard, I’m through.

  • Equal Time

    We’ve had a bit from Sylvia Plath, so here’s one from her husband Ted Hughes. Just for balance, perhaps, because Plath is one of our favorites, but so is the much maligned Ted. Remember Plath supporters, she was nuts before she ever met him. It wasn’t his fault.

    Bride and Groom Lie Hidden for Three Days
    by Ted Hughes

    She gives him his eyes, she found them
    Among some rubble, among some beetles

    He gives her her skin
    He just seemed to pull it down out of the air and lay it over her
    She weeps with fearfulness and astonishment

    She has found his hands for him, and fitted them freshly at the wrists
    They are amazed at themselves, they go feeling all over her

    He has assembled her spine, he cleaned each piece carefully
    And sets them in perfect order
    A superhuman puzzle but he is inspired
    She leans back twisting this way and that, using it and laughing
    Incredulous

    Now she has brought his feet, she is connecting them
    So that his whole body lights up

    And he has fashioned her new hips
    With all fittings complete and with newly wound coils, all shiningly oiled
    He is polishing every part, he himself can hardly believe it

    They keep taking each other to the sun, they find they can easily
    To test each new thing at each new step

    And now she smoothes over him the plates of his skull
    So that the joints are invisible

    And now he connects her throat, her breasts and the pit of her stomach
    With a single wire

    She gives him his teeth, tying the the roots to the centrepin of his body

    He sets the little circlets on her fingertips

    She stiches his body here and there with steely purple silk

    He oils the delicate cogs of her mouth

    She inlays with deep cut scrolls the nape of his neck

    He sinks into place the inside of her thighs

    So, gasping with joy, with cries of wonderment
    Like two gods of mud
    Sprawling in the dirt, but with infinite care
    They bring each other to perfection.

  • The lesson for today

    lawrence2.bmp
    The Burning Man

    “Lawrence” by Tony Hoagland

    On two occasions in the past twelve months,
    I have failed, when someone at a party
    spoke of him with a dismissive scorn,
    to stand up for D.H. Lawrence,

    a man who burned like an acetylene torch
    from one end to the other of his life.
    These individuals, whose relationship to literature
    is approximately that of a tree shredder

    to stands of old-growth forest,
    these people leaned back in their chairs,
    bellies full of dry white wine and the ova of some foreign fish,
    and casually dropped his name

    the way that pygmies with their little poison spears
    strut around the carcass of a fallen elephant.
    “O Elephant,” they say,
    “you are not so big and brave today!”

    It’s a bad day when people speak of their superiors
    with a contempt they haven’t earned,
    and it’s a sorry thing when certain other people

    don’t defend the great dead ones
    who have opened up the world before them.
    And though, in the catalogue of my betrayals,
    this is a fairly minor entry,

    I resolve, if the occasion should recur,
    to uncheck my tongue and say, “I love the spectacle
    of maggots condescending to a corpse.”
    or “You should be so lucky in your brainy, bloodless life

    as to deserve to lift
    just one of D.H.Lawrence’s urine samples
    to your arid pychobiographic
    theory-tainted lips.”

    Or maybe I’ll just take the shortcut
    between the spirit and the flesh,
    and punch someone in the face,
    because human beings haven’t come that far

    in their effort to subdue the body,
    and we still walk around like zombies
    in our dying, burning world,
    able to do little more

    than fight, and fuck, and crow:
    something Lawrence wrote about
    in such a manner
    as to make us seem magnificent.

    Every now and then you like a poet who is just pissed off. Tony Hoagland, published (and we thank them for it) by the local Graywolf Press, is one of those. A friend has been sending me several of his poems, and believe me, this is one of the tamer ones. This guy’s got some fire that he doesn’t quite seem to sublimate completely with his poetry.

    Someday, I’m hope to go down to his home in Texas and buy him a drink and sit and talk trash a while.

  • Raise your hands if you've heard this one before

    popeben.bmp

    I’m not sure exactly why, but the election of the new Pope made me think, of course, of Alexander Pope. But then I thought a bit more of what this Pope will have to do, and that reminded me of Milton, and his objective in writing Paradise Lost.

    To millions of English majors, that objective has no doubt been: to bore the hell out of us. But Milton himself had loftier goals: “To justify the ways of God to men.” Good luck Benedict.

    OF Mans First Disobedience, and the Fruit
    Of that Forbidden Tree, whose mortal tast
    Brought Death into the World, and all our woe,
    With loss of Eden, till one greater Man
    Restore us, and regain the blissful Seat,
    Sing Heav’nly Muse,that on the secret top
    Of Oreb, or of Sinai, didst inspire
    That Shepherd, who first taught the chosen Seed,
    In the Beginning how the Heav’ns and Earth
    Rose out of Chaos: Or if Sion Hill
    Delight thee more, and Siloa’s Brook that flow’d
    Fast by the Oracle of God; I thence
    Invoke thy aid to my adventrous Song,
    That with no middle flight intends to soar
    Above th’ Aonian Mount, while it pursues
    Things unattempted yet in Prose or Rhime.
    And chiefly Thou O Spirit, that dost prefer
    Before all Temples th’ upright heart and pure,
    Instruct me, for Thou know’st; Thou from the first
    Wast present, and with mighty wings outspread
    Dove-like satst brooding on the vast Abyss
    And mad’st it pregnant: What in me is dark
    Illumin, what is low raise and support;
    That to the highth of this great Argument
    I may assert Eternal Providence,
    And justifie the wayes of God to men.

    If you want to continue reading the most unread poem in the history of English majordom, click here.

  • Liza Featherstone

    It’s not just the prices that are low at Wal-Mart. Journalist Liza Featherstone has written extensively about the world’s largest retailer, exposing its many abuses of its employees and the effect its labor practices have had on the culture of work in the United States. Her new book, Selling Women Short: The Landmark Battle for Workers’ Rights at Wal-Mart, chronicles the injustices faced by female employees at Wallyworld and the overseas factories that keep the big box chock full of cheap junk. In the tradition of Upton Sinclair, Featherstone’s work doesn’t just record labor history, it inspires a cry for change.

    THE RAKE: What inspired you to make Wal-Mart the center of your work?

    FEATHERSTONE: I write a lot about labor issues and women’s issues. When the Duke v. Wal-Mart sex discrimination lawsuit was filed in 2001, I was very curious about the women who would stand up to such a powerful retailer. I also got interested in what it means for our society to have so many people working in these low-wage jobs.

    You’ve reported on labor violations that are almost beyond belief.

    Some of the things really are like the Shirtwaist Triangle factory days. Locking workers into the stores, not letting them leave. The extreme disregard for worker safety, child labor. A lot of the stories in the sex discrimination lawsuit really evoke the 1950s or pre-feminist America.

    What do you make of the fact that so many people so passionately defend Wal-Mart?

    Wal-Mart markets itself as a friend to the common person. There are a lot of parallels to the Republican Party, but one difference is that Wal-Mart actually does deliver something to its low-income constituents–low prices. This enables Wal-Mart to say, “Hey, we’re helping poor people.” People don’t see a connection between the working conditions of others and their own work. But the fact is, if you’re letting the world’s largest private employer get away with these abuses, then you’re opening the door for other employers to behave the same way.

    Do you think Wal-Mart is too powerful to feel any repercussions?

    They do get away with things, and people continue to shop there despite their abuses. But recently, they’ve become very concerned about their public image. They’ve hired Hill & Knowlton, a famous public relations firm that companies go to when they’re in trouble. Why? The stock price has been rather lackluster for a number of years; the way people feel about a company affects the price. Also, sales have not been as impressive as they have been in the past. And they are encountering an enormous amount of opposition as they expand into new areas, especially cities. They need to expand in urban areas because they are running out of space in the rest of the country–their stores are beginning to cannibalize each other. Which I always find quite funny.

    People of color seem especially opposed to Wal-Mart. Why?

    In some places, they’ve welcomed it because they want the low prices; and they’ve taken the pessimistic attitude that Wal-Mart jobs are better than no jobs. But in many places, people of color have rejected that. They want economic development that will provide decent jobs that people can support families on. They find it very racist that they’ve been asked to accept this kind of lowest-common-denominator development. Also, Wal-Mart is the biggest gun dealer in the country, and black communities often feel under threat by gun violence. And the fact that Wal-Mart tries to circumvent local laws in many places and build a store regardless of how the community feels–this strikes people as tremendously arrogant, and violates their basic need for respect.

    What do you mean when you describe Wal-Mart as having a “plantation mentality”?

    African-Americans are suspicious about Wal-Mart because it’s a Southern company. They see people accepting extreme violations from bosses who claim to be working in their best interests. It’s not accidental that a company like that originated in the South, because that kind of thinking goes back to slavery: “We’re going to commit these outrageous abuses against you, but we’re all family. We’re looking out for you.” That kind of paternalistic and abusive attitude goes back a very long way in those regions. I went to the Wal-Mart Visitor’s Center in Bentonville, Arkansas, which is the site of the first Wal-Mart store, and there’s a Confederate memorial right across the street.

    Have you ever experienced any threatening or retaliatory behavior from Wal-Mart?

    Never. When I was working on the book, sometimes workers would ask me, “Aren’t you scared? Wal-Mart’s really powerful.” And I’d think, yeah, it makes me a little nervous. But the provisions for journalists and free speech in this country are actually quite good. They haven’t taken any legal action against me. I haven’t gotten any anonymous calls in the middle of the night.

    Liza Featherstone will appear May 5 as part of the Friends of the Saint Paul Public Library’s Untold Stories series about labor history; Weyerhaeuser Chapel at Macalester College, 1600 Grand Ave., St. Paul; 651-222-3242; www.thefriends.org.

  • Letter from London >> Sticker Shock

    There weren’t many people on the plane from Minneapolis to London. My husband, Mike, and I could have had our own aisles, our own sections, our very own bathrooms. Granted, we were traveling in the off-season, but also, dollar-wise, visiting Europe has become rather stupid. Thanks to our huge national debt, the war in Iraq, and a bunch of other financial factors I don’t really understand, the dollar is losing value by the day. Three years ago, a dollar bought almost three quarters of a British pound. Now, it buys just more than half. That’s a nearly twenty-five percent slide, making a tasty Orangina beverage, which costs $2.50 here, the equivalent of $3.50 in London. We paid three dollars for M&M’s and four dollars for a bottle of plain water. Carbonation costs extra.

    Nevertheless, we were determined to vacation in what we would come to know as the most expensive place on earth. We’d never been, after all—never seen all that history. We had relatives to stay with. We had savings and the necessary devil-may-care attitude. So, after a disorienting layover in Reykjavik, Iceland (it was nine in the morning local time and still pitch black outside), we made London at around noon on a Sunday.

    Spending money in London as an American felt like spending money in America as a Mexican. Dollars drifted away like pesos, confetti, vapor. It was a humbling experience, coming from a country where we’re taught to swagger, own the place, no matter what or where. On our first night, by the time Mike and I headed out for dinner, the pubs had all stopped serving. We wound up at a pizza place, where we split a twenty-five-dollar mini pizza pie (we steered clear of “the American,” a pepperoni version intended for people who like their pies “strong and simple”) and a four-dollar bottle of water, and walked back to the house where we were staying.

    In fact, mostly we walked, to avoid the cost of the Underground—cabs were out of the question—but also to view life on the streets. Neither of us is particularly fond of the theater, but we can appreciate an odd situation. We traversed Hyde Park, where we came upon a monument to all the animals who had died in battle. It was embossed with the words, “They had no choice.” We saw the ornate Parliament building and Westminster Abbey (a splurge, since total admission cost around thirty-five dollars), which is basically a giant graveyard full of royalty and other less important people. A coffee stand served cappuccino directly on top of the graves of the least important people. We passed through the financial district and stared down into the swirling brown Thames. We toured several free museums, and stood outside several that charged admission.

    We saw many sites missed by rich people in cabs: the graphic porno flyers in those quaint red telephone booths; the metal fencing that’s been painted so many times it’s clotted with texture; and graveyards where the words have weathered off the stones. In east London, we found an ancient pub called the Town of Ramsgate. It’s right on the Thames and its claim to fame is that pirates used to be hanged out back on scaffolding at the foot of the Wapping Old Stairs. How the Brits love their gore. From the tourist-packed Tower of London where hundreds, maybe thousands, of people were decapitated or hanged or left to rot in their cells, including two of Henry VIII’s wives, to tours of Jack the Ripper’s killing territory, to these Wapping Stairs, the British are simply fascinated.

    At the Ramsgate, my husband and I finished a rather bland traditional English meal of bangers and mash and a pasty chicken pie (total cost, an eye-popping forty dollars) and then went out back to view the spot where Captain Kidd met his end in 1701. According to an excruciatingly detailed placard inside the pub, as Kidd stood atop the scaffold with a rope around his neck, he pointed at a woman in the crowd and yelled, “I lain with that bitch three times, and now she comes to see me hanged.” Not much of a commentary on his performance, joked my husband. Kidd’s body was left to bloat and be picked apart by crows.

    We trekked and trekked. For rest, we usually ducked into the pubs, where, if you’re lucky, you get a glass of beer for five dollars. And where you can hang around all day reading a complimentary copy of the Guardian, which is convinced that all Americans are fat and caught in the grip of a misdirected morality craze. London pubs admit dogs and Englishmen with missing teeth. At one particularly charming pub, the Warwick Arms, Mike was at the bar buying me an extra special bitter. A regular, who had obviously beaten us to the scene by a few hours, slurred in heavily accented English, “Steady, boy.”
    “Why am I silly?” my husband responded.

    “Stea-dy!” he bellowed. “Is there somethin’ wrong with me English?”

    “Well, I’m English as a second language!” The guy had to laugh. He kept laughing as Mike paid the bill.—Jennifer Vogel

    Jennifer Vogel

  • Letters to the Editor

    DO LITTLE
    Thank you for the auto magnets guide [the Rake’s Progress, April]. I had considered having one made that said, “Is this all I have to do?” Simple sentiment is right.
    Beadrin Urista
    Minneapolis

    SHOOTIN’ THE BREEZE
    I really enjoyed Maria Rubinstein’s article on the IRS’s image [the Rakish Angle, April]. And I know what the Alaska Permanent Fund is (I think): I believe that basically, if one has the cojones (or female-wise, cojonettes) to live in Alaska, you get like two hundred dollars a year from the government. I know this because I have a poet friend who lives outside of Fairbanks with a backyard big enough and remote enough that he shoots annoying books there. I asked him to shoot The Bridges of Madison County so I could give it back to a friend who made me read it “because you’re a writer” (Hey, smell this food: is it spoiled?) and he wanted confirmation that it sucked. When I read the whole dang book and found that indeed it did suck, he wouldn’t let me give it back to him. So I had it shot and returned to me, and I wrapped it up very prettily for Christmas. Would you like to become my friend?
    Miss Terri Ford
    Minneapolis

    BLOWN AWAY
    Thank you for the fine article on wind power [“Buffalo Ridge,” April]. It blew me away. Hooray for the Juhls. They are people who have committed their lives to their vision for the betterment of everyone. May NSP catch the spirit and may the wind be at their heels.
    John Newman
    Minneapolis