Category: Article

  • Losing Oak

    To lose an oak
    is no heartbreak.
    —No,
    but to see them go
    by the acre,
    at a stroke,
    is enough to
    crack a man open,
    the heart not broken
    so much as stricken,
    torqued at the root
    and left in a thick
    choke of ache.
    Just so,
    a whole forest’s
    felling will take
    faith’s poorest
    dwelling down and
    leave the chimney—
    stark
    in an open space
    —like a brick
    marker indicating
    a once good place.

     

  • The Man from Hamburg

    As you walk down the narrow hallway into Frank Sander’s
    sunlit studio in Lowertown you’re greeted by an entryway table piled with
    cables, cast-off camera bits, miscellaneous video equipment, and a couple of
    discarded microphone heads.

    On the walls are personal treasures the German-born artist
    has picked up during his twenty-odd years of travel. He takes down a recent
    prize from a wall near the galley kitchen: a weathered, conical straw hat he
    bartered from a farmer on a recent trip to China’s Yunnan province. "Can you
    see the sweat stains along the strap here? Look at the fine weaving work; the
    swirls and patterning in the straw are just stunning. I love that this bears
    the evidence of his labor, the time he spent in the fields," Sander said. "I
    think it’s just beautiful, it’s so human."

    Sander studied carpentry and architecture, along with visual
    art, in Germany; it’s clear he’s an itchy sort of artist, resistant to the
    fetters of just one discipline. Finding carpentry and architecture too precise
    and measured, he turned to sculpture and painting. He’s also noodled around
    with filmmaking and photography since childhood, experimenting early on with
    Super 8 cameras, and graduating over time to videography and digital
    photography.

    In his twenties Sander wandered throughout Europe, living in
    Spain for a time, then the Netherlands and Denmark. On a trip home to Hamburg
    in 1979, his train was caught in a week-long blizzard. "After a couple of days,
    I started to look around for ways to pass the time." He recalls wryly, "I kept
    thinking, surely there’s a young woman around here who needs some company."

    You can guess the rest: a fellow passenger was an attractive
    American. They hit it off and Sander followed her home to Minnesota, where they
    were married. That relationship eventually fizzled but his affair with the
    North Star State did not.

    In fact, Minnesota’s landscapes, especially the wilds of the
    Boundary Waters, have indelibly marked his artwork. Sander may be best known
    for his critically hailed installation, Human Nature, which premiered at the
    Minneapolis Institute of Arts in 1999 and also showed at the Daum Museum of
    Contemporary Art outside Kansas City. In Sander’s landscape, fish enrobed in
    resin hang from the frame of an upturned fishing boat; and scores of beaver
    skulls sit in government-issue file boxes in witness to the destruction of
    their habitat. The entire work was a sort of sculptural reliquary for Upper
    Midwest wildlife displaced by industrialization and sprawl.

    Sander, however, now has mixed feelings about large-scale
    public art. "It takes so much time and money, and so much time applying for
    grants, to put something like that together. No one really buys work that
    large, so in the case of Human Nature it sat around on my property deteriorating
    for years, just getting in the way. I’m more interested in actually making
    artwork than in shopping my artwork around."

    His current passion, videography and film, marries well with
    his wanderlust. Currently he is documenting the tribal minorities and austere
    beauty of Yunnan Province, in the mountains near the Tibetan border. Typically
    for Sander, he arrived at this latest work through both luck and a Zen-like
    acquiescence to the vicissitudes of his curiosity. He stumbled on these insular
    enclaves last year while sightseeing in China, and, intrigued by their singular
    cultural histories, struck up a friendship with a local university professor
    who introduced him to some locals.

    Sander was smitten with the people and their communities,
    poised between agrarian life and industrial modernity. Armed with just a
    camera, he returns every chance he gets. Sander’s video footage is immediate
    and intimate. There’s over-the-shoulder access to the mountaintop homes of
    boisterous young dancers, and walks along narrow village streets on festival
    night.

    With the ongoing collaboration of his Chinese partner, He
    Lujiang, Sander is working to raise money for an ambitious film project that
    would chronicle these peoples’ fast-disappearing stories.

    "We have the opportunity to preserve something of this way
    of life before it’s gone," he says. "Imagine if we’d been able to do something
    similar to capture Native American life before the days of reservations. These
    are communities on the cusp of modern life, and every day they lose a bit of
    their heritage to the conveniences of new technologies. If I can document their
    way of life, I’d like to post the whole film for free online. He Lujiang and I
    want their chronicle to be our small contribution to the world."

    The medium may vary, but Sander’s consistent theme is
    preservation. His is the proverbial (and literal) voice in the wilderness
    urging us not to forget who we were and to be mindful of the natural wonders
    being sacrificed for the manufactured comforts of modernity.

  • Zoom In: Amy Jo Hendrickson

    Hendrickson’s handiwork is a mélange of burlesque camp,
    cowgirl grit, and Victorian flourish. She’s undeniably influenced by ’70s pop
    design and ’80s album covers, but this North Dakota girl also mixes in a
    frontier spirit straight out of a nineteenth-century Sears, Roebuck catalog.
    But make no mistake, the work has some bite: Hendrickson’s all-American blonde
    pigtails are more Minnesota RollerGirl than Little House on the Prairie.

    If you go to rock shows around Minnesota, you’ve seen
    Hendrickson’s posters on the walls around you; she’s been at it for years.
    Since she moved to Minneapolis and set up shop at First Amendment Gallery with
    some other artists, her sly grrrl-power designs have been garnering more and
    more notice. And no wonder-with all the elements she unabashedly draws
    from, Hendrickson’s design savvy has the hook of a catchy pop song, tweaking
    familiar styles with unexpected juxtapositions and cheeky flair.

    Looking back, she says it makes sense that she was drawn to
    this kind of work. "When I was a kid, I loved flipping through the images in
    catalogs. I always noticed album covers and ad designs and movie posters," she
    remembers. "There’s all kinds of inspiration out there if you know how to
    look."

     

    Originally appeared in issue 18.1 of access+ENGAGE.

  • Point of Entry

     

    All artists come from a foreign country, in some sense.
    Where “originality” is essential, each artist becomes a world in him- or
    herself, with zealously guarded borders. But what’s it like to be an artist who
    makes a home in a distant land? The answers to this and a thousand other
    questions are different for each of the artists interviewed below. It turns out
    that “émigré artist” is not a category, only a door into a very large world.

     

    Manjunan Gnanaratnam

    Sri Lanka’s civil war drove Manjunan from home at
    twenty-one, in 1983. He arrived in New York to study music, saw Merce
    Cunningham perform, and found his calling as a composer for dance. His current
    projects include plans for a 2008 performance that includes dance projected on
    the walls at the Weisman Art Museum; he’s also recreating composer Karlheinz
    Stockhausen’s work Ceylon.

    Manjunan never spoke publicly about leaving Sri Lanka until
    recently: “I couldn’t talk about the effects of war until war came here—you
    can see wounded young people in the airports now. I can speak now about the
    innocence that was lost and people will understand.” He feared that if people
    knew of his exile, it would overshadow his work—which is not about exile
    or nationality, but the relation of human bodies and sound.

    “In some ways,”
    remarked Manjunan, “I’m more at home musically here than in Sri Lanka; the
    avant-garde music community here understands what I do. I have a home inside my
    music, inside my relationship to dance, to the optimal performance environment
    … that is, in some ways, my true home.”

    However, on returning to his home country after twenty
    years, he realized he had missed “the vibrations of the society that produced
    me. Sri Lanka has five hundred years of colonization, by India, England,
    Holland. The music contains all these traditions, church music, Hindu music,
    Buddhist, rock ’n’ roll—and so in some sense everything’s allowed. My
    physical home is in Minnesota, but my emotional home will always be Sri Lanka.”

    “My work as a composer for modern and postmodern dance and
    performance art is easily accepted in the East and West coasts and
    internationally,” he noted; “however, I would say Minnesota lags on this.”

    So when asked what he feels he brings to the mix of the arts
    in Minnesota, Manjunan responded with a smile and another question:
    “Adventure?”

     

    Gladys Beltran

    A painter who arrived here in 1993 from Colombia, Beltran
    has a BFA from the University of Antioquia in Medellín, and won a McKnight
    Fellowship in 2006. It took her several years to learn English and feel at
    home, but now, she says, “the process of growing old and the hope of growing in
    the spirit through my work is taking place here.” But she misses her sisters,
    her parents—their faces, how they change over time, their jokes and
    laughter. “The absence of our loved ones is a temporal death. It is horrible
    when you can’t hug them.”

    But there is freedom even in this sorrow. “As a painter it
    is liberating not to be with some members of my family who love me, I know, but
    who cannot understand why I have to paint. Being away, I do not have to explain
    over and over why: I have to paint if I want to breathe in peace. I have to
    paint because I do love to exist.” She says it’s too soon to know people’s
    reactions to her work: “My work is like a baby, and people always like babies.
    I haven’t done 1/30th of my project.”

    Artists, she believes, are similar everywhere. “I brought my
    hungry soul. I can say it is more what I took from you than what I brought,
    because I am taking your cities to paint them, I am taking your spaces to
    navigate in them with my paintbrushes over the canvas. In other words I will be
    taking over your country to paint it, to love it.”

  • Craig Finn’s Playlist


    The Hold Steady
    are well known for tossing hosannas to the Twin Cities’ landscape and music scene, past and present—from name-checking the “Grain Belt bridge” and Payne Avenue to sonic nods to all manner of local bands. Never mind that frontman Craig Finn, a native of Edina, decamped to Brooklyn some seven years ago—the Twin Towns (and their suburbs) remain a key inspiration. Of course, influences outside our city limits also filter into Finn’s songs: hints of Jersey boy Bruce Springsteen (OK, maybe not just hints) or Ohio’s Guided By Voices, not to mention shout-outs to dive bars and shopping malls stumbled across on countless and lengthy tours. So we asked Finn what he’s listening to these days, now that his geographical horizons are wide open.

    1. “Enjoying Myself,” The 1990s
    We are taking this band on our upcoming tour. Their live show backs up the claim of the song, that they like enjoying themselves. One line I particularly like: “I’m glad we had the party at your place.”


    2. “Shirin,” Jens Lekman

    I read a negative review of his new record that said Lekman was “condescending,” which might be true. But if it is, it might be one of his best traits.

    3. “I’ll Be Your Bird,” M. Ward
    This song is an older one, but it’s perfectly creepy and beautiful, and sounds rooted in no particular decade, which is a songwriting feat.

    4. “4% Pantomime,” The Band
    Every few months I get stuck on the Band. The version I am loving right now is a demo, where Van Morrison stops midway through, offers some advice to the group and tries it again, with Rick Danko taking the first verse this time.

    5. “Crazy For Leaving,” Catfish Haven
    George Hunter has one of my favorite voices in indie rock. These guys are soulful in the way that Creedence was. We took them on tour and would hear this song every night, and I would wake up singing it every morning.

    6. “Thrash Unreal,” Against Me!
    It seems that every article I read about this band is about punk-scene politics, but no one seems to want to talk about how massive these songs sound, especially with a chorus of a few thousand excited kids singing along.

    7. “Fear and Whiskey,” The Mekons
    My friend told me that the Mekons’ live show is “even better than The Replacements.” A big claim, to be sure, but the Mekons sure delivered.

    8. “Louisiana 1927,” Randy Newman
    Newman is tender and humorous here in a way that almost no one else can be. His songs are often more like character studies, and stunning in their depth.

    9. “Elvis Cadillac,” Rickie Lee Jones
    Her record this year knocked me on my ear, not only its droney, Velvet Underground-style backing band, but also its confessional tone. I think this is the record I listened to the most this year, and this is the most charming song on the record.

    10. “Knock ’Em Out,” Lily Allen
    After seeing every “important” band in the world on the European summer festival circuit, I saw Lily Allen on my last night in London. Her live show beat everyone I had seen all year, just by the sheer fun of it. She even did two Specials covers. In this song she coolly turns down potential pick-up artists as quick as they arrive.

  • Buona Sera

    “I’m home!” Lydia cries out.

    Dov’è la biblioteca?” says Lyle. He’s at the stove, his back to her, tossing something into a pot. His voice is steady, reassuring, as seductive as the all-night jazz radio host who inhabits the parallel universe that of late has revealed itself to Lydia—a world populated with graveyard shift workers, or people like her, who have lost the innate ability to sleep.

    Dov’è la biblioteca?” he repeats, and this time Lydia sees the wires dangling from her husband’s ears, as if he were plugged into himself. Lyle, the multi-tasker, is practicing Italian while he cooks. Lydia is supposed to practice, too, but she resents the cheerful prattling of Flavia and her boyfriend, Gianni, who hold tedious conversations with Florentine waiters, museum guards and shop clerks. Now one of them appears to be in search of a library.

    Lydia places a bag of Chinese takeout on the counter, before swooping in to hug Lyle. She comes up from behind, burrowing her face into his wooly sweater, which smells faintly of onion and soap. He sets down a wooden spoon, plucks the mini-speakers from his ears letting them drape around his neck, then turns to greet her. “Buon giorno, signora!” He smiles and pecks her cheek. “Or is it sera?”

    Lyle, a high school English teacher, is one of the last sticklers for syntax and grammar. He teaches his students to parse sentences; he corrects their spelling, though the current orthodoxy dictates that such nit-picking stifles creativity. Lydia has tried assuring him that it will not matter if he wishes people a good evening before the appointed hour. What she hasn’t said is that she may not go, that she’s not ready, as he put it when he surprised her with the tickets to Rome, to “move on.”

    “What’s in the pot?” she asks, her voice too bright. She’s banking reserves of goodwill, before confessing that she’s already seen to dinner, that on her way home from seeing Dr. Becker she stopped at Wing Yee’s.

    “Chili,” he says, and as if to dispel any doubt, tosses some minced jalapeño into the cast iron pot.

    “Smells good,” she lies. “Who’s the author?” Lydia doesn’t feel up to playing this game, but she’s still hoping to atone for the dinner mix-up. Every school year, Lyle takes on a new project, and this year has been no exception. What started as a joke, after he’d read an essay, “How to Cook a Wolf,” turned into his Moveable Feast project. Lyle will lure his students into the world of books through the pairing of readings with recipes. So far, he has prepared Mrs. Cratchit’s holiday pudding, and a vegetable noodle soup suggested by a passage in Middlemarch that details the annoying manner in which Mr. Casaubon scrapes his bowl with a spoon.

    The other day, Lyle showed Lydia a recipe for Jim Harrison’s mesquite-roasted doves, which began: Find some wild doves. Shoot them. When they finally stopped laughing, the couple stood frozen, embarrassed by their mirth, which had seized them without warning. What to do with such unexpected—yes, unwelcome—pleasure? Lydia had been about to apologize, when Lyle pulled her close and kissed the top of her head, delivering them both from the discomfiting spell.

    “Simon Ortiz,” Lyle replies, holding the spoon to Lydia’s mouth. She recoils, then with a rueful glance toward the Chinese takeout, accepts his offering, though she has little enthusiasm for food. It’s all the same to her, which is the reason she couldn’t understand why Lyle had stormed out of the house last week when she snatched the marmalade from his hand. After setting the jar back on the windowsill safely beside the others, she retrieved some strawberry preserves, but by the time she set it on the table Lyle had left the room, and soon she heard the front door click shut.

    He’d issued his ultimatum later, after he returned home, sweat-drenched from a run. “It’s me or the jars, Lydia.” He paced the floor as he spoke, head bowed, hands clasped behind his back, as if he were measuring the length of the room with his feet. He had on orange running shoes, the color of popsicles. She’d been about to ask if they were new, when he said, “A year is enough.”

    When she asked if he’d leave because of some jam jars, he said, “You know it’s not that.”

    She remembers looking up from her husband’s shoes to the jars perched on the sill above the sink, like amber frozen in time. “He’s right, Lydia,” they seemed to say. “A year is enough.”

    Whether to the jars or to Lyle—she still can’t be sure—she heard herself say, “The man in the truck would understand.”

    Lyle stopped pacing. “What man?”

    Then she told him about the man who drives around with a coffin in the back of his pickup. When Lyle looked even more puzzled, she said, “His son was killed while on patrol in Najaf?” Only she spoke in that annoying interrogative lilt, that verbal tic that afflicts so many young people, turning every declarative sentence into a question. It was as if she couldn’t bring herself to assert what she knew was true.

    She told Lyle that the coffin holds a few of the son’s belongings: a soccer ball, a pair of his favorite shoes, his boots, uniform, dog tags. The side panels of the father’s truck are plastered with poster-sized photos: the son in uniform; the son blowing out the candles on a birthday cake, a paper hat askew atop a mop of dark curls. “He was in all the papers. On the radio.” Again, that annoying, questioning lilt.

    She didn’t say that she’d picked up the phone to tell the man that when her husband isn’t home she sets Sophie’s picture on the windowsill beside the jars. But another caller came on the air and accused the man of dishonoring his son’s memory, so she hung up and turned the radio off.

    When Lydia said, “Surely, you’ve heard of him,” Lyle shrugged and shook his head and she hated him for his indifference. She couldn’t get the man’s voice out of her head. “My son’s off to Iraq. And there I was at home learning that there’s no weapons of mass destruction.” He was soft-spoken, his speech lightly accented, the way she imagined Gianni might sound if he spoke English. “I had two TVs going all day long, and the radio, trying to get news, to figure out what is happening over there. I see sandstorms, the Tigris River, tanks. I see the Marines move through dark alleyways. They kick in doors. All the time, I am afraid for my son, but I am helpless.”

    Now Lyle is pressing a spoonful of the literary chili to Lydia’s mouth. Despite everything, he still needs her approval. She opens wide, feigning delight at his offering. “Mmm. Do I detect a hint of cinnamon?”
    “Nice touch, isn’t it?” He beams.

    She offers to set the table, and when he says the chili won’t be done for at least another hour, she says, again too brightly, “That’s alright. We can have it tomorrow.” With a nod toward the paper bag, she confesses that she’s already seen to dinner.

    He turns sharply and the glasses he has started to wear for reading slip, so it appears that he’s peering down his nose at her. She braces for a fight, but his voice is as soothing as her favorite radio host when he says, “I told you I was cooking.” And she can tell by the slope of his shoulders, by the way his six-foot frame has collapsed in on itself, that he is too tired to argue.

    Lyle returns to the chili and while Lydia sets out two dinner plates, she considers what, if anything, she can say to atone for the mix up. The truth is, she passed by Wing Yee’s on her way home from Dr. Becker’s, and bringing dinner in had seemed like a good idea at the time.

    Lydia, who has no desire to share her innermost thoughts with a stranger, is seeing Dr. Becker at Lyle’s insistence. This afternoon, she told Dr. Becker: “Lyle wants the marmalade gone. That’s why I’m here.” She didn’t tell her how on sunny days the light filters through the jars, creating an incandescent glow. And she could never say, as the man in the truck did: “My world tumbled, and I felt my heart go down to my feet and rush back up through my throat.” She couldn’t even say, “Save me.” Instead, she described Lyle pacing while issuing his ultimatum.

    Sophie had found the marmalade recipe in a dog-eared Sunset in the orthodontist’s waiting room. It was sandwiched between recipes for persimmon pudding and fig pie—desserts conceived for people with backyard trees bearing bumper crops. Their own yard, in Minneapolis, in a growing zone unable to sustain such exotics, yields nothing more than acorns. Lydia remembers thinking they’d have to buy the oranges, as well as the kettle and jars and tongs. Turning to Sophie, she’d said, “It’s a lot of work.” But when Sophie flashed that tinsel grin and said, “It will be fun,” Lydia believed her. Besides, once she got hold of an idea, there was no stopping Sophie. Nothing. Nobody. Not Lydia. Not Lyle. Not Lydia’s mother, who threatened a hunger strike if Sophie didn’t come to her senses. But that came later.

    So they made marmalade as if they had their very own orange tree out back, instead of an old oak that shed prodigious amounts of inedible nuts. They danced to their favorite Paul Simon recording, while they scrubbed and chopped, boiled and stirred.

    Now Lyle, who has been chopping green pepper, looks up from the cutting board, and in a voice suddenly tight with anger, accuses her of forgetting. “How could you?”

    “I just did,” she says. Hoping to leave it at that she starts fussing with the alignment of the tarnished forks and spoons. Her mother had given the set to her after selling the house. Lydia had protested that it was too much, too soon. “Besides, what will I do with silver?” When Ida replied, “Some day you’ll pass it on to Sophie,” Lydia relaxed. The gift felt like insurance, a guarantee that everything happens in turn. Some day it would be Sophie’s. Now the dulled utensils feel like a rebuke, a symbol of Lydia’s failure to oversee and protect the natural order of things.

    She picks up one of the dulled spoons, rubs it with the hem of her silk blouse, holds it up for inspection. Though the job clearly requires more than elbow grease, she continues buffing, as if she can erase the dull miasma, which, like acid rain or nuclear fallout, coats everything around her.

    After returning the spoon to the right of a knife, she looks over at Lyle, who’s gone back to his chili. Now would be the time to tell him about the tree, to cut through the anger and resentment that chokes the room. Lydia has always derived immense satisfaction from the sort of quotidian exchanges that pertain to the upkeep of a home, that signify a shared existence—reminders about the plumbing, car repair, dry cleaning. She supposes that over time, such minutiae, and particularly the need to discuss it, might wear a couple down, but she has always found the exchange of such ordinary—some might say mind-numbing—detail, to be extraordinarily intimate. Who else besides Lyle needs to know, or for that matter, even cares, that the car needs a new muffler, or the leak in the living room ceiling is coming from the bathroom on the opposite side of the house, or the shirts won’t be ready until Friday?

    Yet as soon as she says, “The tree is coming down first thing tomorrow morning,” she senses her blunder. It can only remind Lyle that she’d cancelled the previous appointment, which had taken six weeks to procure, as well as the one before that.

    But he merely nods, which Lydia reads as permission to press on. “What’s ‘first thing?’” she says, straining for a light-hearted tone. “Is it seven o’clock? Or eight!” She pauses. “Yes. Perhaps eight o’clock is second thing.”

    Once, this might have gotten a rise out of Lyle-the-Stickler, but now, as he tosses diced pepper into the pot, he accuses her of trying to change the subject. Yet his voice is eerily composed, as if he has just asked her to please pass the butter. Then he says, “I told you I was cooking dinner. How could you forget?”

     

    “It seemed like a good idea.” She waits a moment, then says, “At the time, I mean. It seemed like a good idea at the time.”

    Then she crosses the room to where she’d set the dinner, carries it to the table, flops down in front of one of the places she’d just set, unfolds the bag that Mr. Yee’s daughter had sealed with the swift, assured precision of an origami artist, pulls out a carton, picks up one of the tarnished spoons, and plunges it right into the heart of General Tso’s chicken.

    “Lydia!” Lyle rushes toward her, still clutching the knife, hair falling over one eye, ear buds flapping, the Italian lesson pouring out of them. Briefly she wonders if he plans to use the knife on her, though Lyle has always been the gentlest of men.

    Standing over her, he pleads with her to stop. But as she shoves the spoon into her mouth she realizes that she can’t, and then, when it’s empty she licks it clean, before plunging it back into the carton for more.

    “Lydia, please! For God’s sake, stop. Please. Stop.” The very words, that he, (she, too), should have said to Sophie.

    She digs in again, only this time he yanks the spoon out of her hand, sending a gob of chicken, red-hot chili peppers and congealed sauce sailing across the room, where it hits the window and oozes down the pane, landing on one of the pristine jars.

    Lyle grabs a towel and starts mopping the mess that landed in Lydia’s lap, but she pushes him away and rushes to rescue the sullied jar, which nearly slips from her trembling hands as she tries to wipe it clean. If only she could speak, this would be the time to suggest that he see the shrink. Let him, the one who flew into a rage over a carton of Chinese chicken, sit in that stuffy office in an overstuffed chair, confronted by a box of man-sized tissues, cheap, leggy carnations, Dr. Reena Becker’s long, crossed legs, and her three-hundred-dollar stiletto heels. Everything about that place seems calculated to make Lydia feel small.

    But she’s tired. Lyle is, too. She can see that now. Even the tan he has acquired from all that running can’t mask his pallor. She wonders if the strain in his face is a new development, or something else she’s neglected, like the tarnish, or the tree, which has been dying in stages. “Oak wilt,” the forester had said. And then, as if it were any consolation: “It’s wiped out half the trees in the city.”

    Lydia resists the urge to cross the room and stroke her husband’s cheek, push his hair back. She remembers the night before the funeral, the way they’d comforted each other with their bodies. The clinging had felt so familiar that it was hard to believe that everything else in their life wasn’t also the same. It was their subsequent couplings that felt indecent, a betrayal of something, their better selves, perhaps.

    She sets the jar back on the sill and says, “I’m sorry.”

    That’s what she’d said to the men who stood on her front porch. They wore dress greens, their pant creases sharp as if Mr. Yee’s daughter had pressed them. The pink-cheeked man wasn’t much older than Sophie. At first Lydia wondered if he might be one of her daughter’s old boyfriends. Then he called her “ma’am,” and she wanted him to be one of those clean-cut proselytizers who sweep through the neighborhood now and then—a Mormon or a Jehovah’s Witness.

    Through the screen door, the older man, identical to the first in nearly every way except for the color of his skin, asked to come in.

    “I’m sorry,” she replied. “I’m sorry, but you can’t come in.”

    She wanted to get back to the kitchen, where she’d been preparing marmalade as a surprise for Sophie, who was due home in sixteen days. It was a lot of work, as she’d predicted all those years ago, though it had never felt arduous when the two of them worked side by side. But without Sophie even Paul Simon sounded flat, so she’d turned it off. That’s when she heard the tap. It was the lightest tap on the door that she’d ever heard.

    “Ma’am, we need to come in,” the young man insisted. He was fresh-faced, barely shaving.

    “I’m sorry, but you can’t.”

    Then his partner asked to speak with Lyle, with “Mr. Martin.”

    When Lydia said, “He isn’t home,” they offered to wait.

    Lydia, who ordinarily supplies the men who work on her house with pitchers of lemonade in summer, mugs of hot coffee when it’s cold, closed the door, retreated to the kitchen and turned the recording back on to drown out the sound of the knocking. Then she wiped the cooling jars and moved them to the sill, thinking back to a time when she and Sophie had stood admiring their handiwork, pleased as if they’d just lifted delicate raku bowls from a kiln.

    It was Lyle, still flush from his run, who let the men in. How could he know? He wasn’t like her, consumed by fear as she finished those jams without Sophie, fear that even gentle-sweet Paul Simon couldn’t assuage, fear set off by knowing, knowing, absolutely knowing why those men in starched greens were standing on her porch. How could Lyle, punch-drunk on endorphins, know? So he let them in.

    Later, Lyle told her how she’d run to the piano for the picture of the three of them, then waved it in their faces, pointing to Sophie, who was being swung in the air by Lydia and Lyle, one moist, dimpled hand tucked inside each of theirs. “You’re wrong,” she’d shrieked. “Mistakes happen!” Hadn’t they heard of death-row prisoners? DNA? “You’ve come to the wrong house.”

    Then she ran back for the picture of Sophie swinging a tennis racket, vintage Sophie with the crooked smile and the perfect teeth.

    “My daughter is nineteen years old,” Lydia cried. “She was captain of the high school tennis team.” She jabbed a finger into the starched chest of one man and then the other. “Was it you?” she cried. “Did you come to campus and promise to teach her to fly? Or was it you?”

    After Sophie had phoned home to announce her plans, Lydia had said: “Tell them you didn’t mean it.” Then she hung up and scrubbed the kitchen floor and ironed all the laundry, including Lyle’s boxer shorts and socks. Lyle, who had never done so before, put on a pair of old gym shoes and ran around the block three times. Lydia’s mother, Ida, called Sophie and said, “If it’s flying lessons you wanted, why didn’t you tell me?”

    Then Lydia called Sophie back and reminded her of the picture on her grandmother’s living room mantel, the one taken minutes before Ida and her first husband, Harold, who was on a weekend pass, were married at City Hall. The newlyweds spent their brief honeymoon at the old Edgewater Beach Hotel, where Harold carried Ida over the threshold and into a room filled with orchids. As a child, Lydia never tired of listening to her mother tell that story, though she wished it didn’t have to end with Harold stepping on a land mine. She used to fantasize that, had he lived, Harold, King of the Romantics, would have been her father. Even after she was old enough to understand that, had he lived, she never would have been born, Lydia wanted the story to have a different ending.

    Sophie was killed by an improvised explosive device. “An IED, ma’am,” said the baby-faced man.

    “IED?”

    “Sharp metal objects,” said his partner.

    Back and forth they went.

    “Remote detonators.”

    “Garage-door opener.”

    “Doorbell.”

    “Easy to make.”

    Together: “Nobody’s sure just how it went off.”

    Lydia can’t shake the idea that IED is one letter off from IUD, the contraceptive device that had failed and given them Sophie. She’s never been able to share that particular thought with Lyle, who, after adjusting the burner to simmer, informs her that he’s going for a run now.

    When she’s sure Lyle’s gone, Lydia retrieves the picture, the one she’s kept hidden in the pantry since the day Lyle the grammarian, the stickler for the precise turn of phrase, railed at her “fucking shrine.” When she tried explaining, when she told him about the pot-bellied Buddha and the plate of oranges and incense arranged on the floor near the cash register at Wing Yee’s, he rolled his eyes and she slipped the picture into a drawer.

    Now she sets it on the sill beside the jars. There’s Sophie, in a straw hat and goofy sunglasses, laughing as Lydia and Lyle swing her off the ground. Lydia and Lyle are laughing, too. Lydia can’t recall shoving the photo in the officers’ faces, though she remembers that after they left she beat Lyle on the chest with her fists; she punched his stomach. She screamed: “You let them in!” Later, after all their friends had departed, leaving them alone with a refrigerator full of plastic-shrouded casseroles and cakes, she told Lyle, “I opened the door and when I saw the men in dress greens I knew. I knew. But I thought that if, as long as I didn’t let them in, they couldn’t tell me. And then it—none of it would have happened. And then you let them in.”

    Lydia is suddenly aware of voices and panics at the thought that Lyle may be right, that she really is crazy and it has come to this: auditory hallucinations. Then she sees the iPod, which he’d left on the table. She tries turning it off, gives up, and plugs the mini speakers into her ears. Flavia and Gianni are in a trattoria, where Flavia is dithering over whether to order carne or pesce. Lydia has had enough of Flavia and her unexamined life. She’s had enough of Flavia, to whom nothing untoward happens, unless you count the time her luggage was lost at the airport in Prague, where she and Gianni had gone on holiday. She doesn’t care whether Flavia orders meat or fish. She yanks the earbuds out and sets the device back on the table.

    Their own dinner is in shambles. Chili à la Simon Ortiz? Or General Tso’s chicken? The chili is simmering, but she sees that the offending carton, as well as the rest of the takeout, is gone. Perhaps Lyle tossed it out when he left the house, though more likely he would have set the remains in the refrigerator. She hopes it’s the latter and is about to check when a shadow crosses the room. Looking up, she sees a squirrel, perched on the ledge, gnawing an acorn. They’ve blanketed the lawn this year, and she remembers the arborist explaining that it happens, that a dying tree can still produce acorns, even an abundant crop.

    Tomorrow the tree comes down. Earlier, when she’d reminded Lyle of that, she’d wanted to thank him for his patience and understanding. Last month, when she confessed to canceling the tree cutter, she’d jokingly called it “a stay of execution.” But then she started to weep, and he said they could plant another. When she bristled at the suggestion, he admitted that a new tree wouldn’t be the same. Then she stopped whimpering and shared with him the first thing that came to mind: “We can try planting an orange tree.” Instead of replying, “You’re fucking nuts,” or more likely for Lyle, “You have gone round the bend, haven’t you?” he went for a run.

    She loves that oak. It has served them well, gracing the yard with a canopy of leaves, providing shade on the sultriest of days. It provided fodder for squirrels; a blaze of fall color. Dormant, it stood silhouetted against the sky, a majestic reminder of seasons to come. Like the silver her mother had passed down, it stood as insurance against the vagaries of life, a symbol of consistency and order.

    Lydia resists the notion that death is an inevitable part of that order. Sophie didn’t have to die. Not in that desert. Not in that trumped-up war. Not, she thinks, ever. No. That’s not true. The truth is: Sophie didn’t have to die now. Not in that way. Not while Lyle was running through the streets in his Day-Glo shoes and she was sorting laundry.

    She taps on the window now and calls out, “Enjoy it while you can!” The squirrel drops the acorn, leaps off the sill and scurries toward the safety of the tree.

    Lydia grabs Lyle’s plaid shirt off a hook near the back door and heads outside to rake the acorns. As she gathers them in piles, they resist the pull of the rake. Her arms burn from the effort; her hamstrings throb from all the bending to scoop them up. Tomorrow she will feel the effects of all this effort, but right now she feels a surge of energy, like lights that blaze before shorting out in a storm. This must be how Lyle feels when he runs—exuberantly exhausted.

    As she scoops the last of the acorns into the bag, she wonders if a bumper crop portends a harsh winter—record snowfall, ice storms, extreme temperatures? At that, she turns the bag over and calls to the squirrel. But night has fallen, and if he’s still out there, she can’t tell.

    She’s heading toward the house when a light goes on in the kitchen. Lyle is back from his run. Though he can’t see out in the dark, she ducks behind the tree and watches as he opens the refrigerator. Perhaps he’ll take out the Chinese, stand over the sink and eat it straight from the carton, as she’s caught him doing in the middle of the night, when he can’t sleep either. Instead, he stands with the door ajar, swigging orange juice from the carton. There was a time when she would have reminded him to close the door, drink from a glass, and he wouldn’t have objected.

    He closes the door and looks around as if he’s forgotten the reason he came into the room. Under her breath she reminds him to check the chili, and he starts toward the stove, as if they hadn’t lost that eerie telepathic power that some close couples possess. He stirs the pot, brings the spoon to his mouth, but stops short, sets the spoon down and heads toward the window.

    Lydia holds her breath as she sees him reaching for one of the jars. He wipes it with the hem of his T-shirt, carries it to the table where he sits at one of the places she’d set. As he taps the lid with one of the tarnished spoons, she knows she could never reach him in time to stop him. Her only recourse is to stand hiding behind a diseased tree while she spies on her husband, waiting for him to break the seal, which may be the very thing that is holding her together. The situation is beyond her control.

    As Lyle wraps his hand around the lid, she feels light-headed and closes her eyes, leaning into the tree for support until the dizziness passes. By the time she opens her eyes, the lid is off and he is eating the marmalade, straight from the jar. She doesn’t falter. Even after he scrapes the jar with the spoon, she is steady on her feet. “That leaves four,” she whispers, knowing, just as she knows the tree is coming down in the morning, that at breakfast tomorrow she’ll open another jar and spread marmalade on a triangle of toast. She will give a jar to the mailman and perhaps one to the man who comes to cut down the tree, which she ducks behind again, just as Lyle looks out the window, scanning the yard, as if he knows she is out there.

    Buona sera!” she calls out. “Or is it notte?”

    Though she knows he can’t hear her, he seems to shrug, as if to say that such distinctions are unimportant. Then he turns, and the last she sees of him, his hands are clasped behind his back, his head slightly bowed, as if he were taking a measure of the room.

  • California Dreaming

    Last spring brought a nasty shock. I was walking down a leafy side street off Como Avenue, hoping to admire in passing the jolly gingerbread woodwork around the eaves of the tumbledown duplex where my POSSLQ and I shared our first Minnesota home. The place was in pretty poor nick when we rented it twenty years ago; the waste pipe for the kitchen sink (located for some reason on the landing) was held together by duct tape, squirrels nested noisily in the roofing felt. But in happier times it had been a boyhood home of Governor Floyd B. Olson. Indeed, a previous tenant had tried to have it listed on the National Register of Historic Places, but apparently there was no enthusiasm in official circles for starting a Floyd B. Olson Boyhood Home Tour—the future governor’s family had moved house rather often. No doubt the authorities thought he was better remembered by half of Highway 55 and one of the world’s biggest bronze double-breasted suits.

    Anyway, as I rounded the corner I saw not crumbling timber but a large brown hole. This dust inbreathèd was the house, the wall, the wainscot, and the mouse (no shortage of mice). Above the hole, memories swam suspended in a patch of sky: Roses are red/ Violets are blue/ Please will you be/ My POSSLQ. This empty air was where we opened the sherry which had been a parting gift from my previous employer; it was where we survived on short commons till the first paycheck came in, a month after our arrival.

    I recall tearing into the envelope and announcing—as any Englishman might—that we should celebrate by going out for curry. Except, of course, in those days there were no curry houses in the Twin Cities. We compromised on an Afghan place, where we chose to sit on the floor cushions, feeling full of Eastern promise—the POSSLQ, fortunately, is better upholstered than I am.

    Today we would have plenty of choice. The proliferation of curry houses is one of the best things to happen in the Twin Cities during the past ten years. Not that they form an oenological opportunity. I have met wines that will stand up to curry but none yet that forms as happy a marriage with it as IPA, the India Pale Ale brewed by Victorian box-wallahs for precisely that purpose.

    This happy marriage is no more than you might expect. The standard curry-house menu derives, like IPA, from the long symbiosis between the peoples of the British Isles and those of the Indian subcontinent; it is not “authentically” Indian. Chicken tikka masala, now (“studies have shown”) England’s favorite national dish, was probably invented in Birmingham, not in Bombay; the balti certainly was.

    The Indian restaurant menu, in fact, is the latest stage in a long relationship that is at least as much cultural as culinary. In the University Church in Oxford is a marble memorial engraved in Latin. On one side of the plaque stands a conventional Roman-style Mourning Victory, but on the other is a gent with a Yul Brynner haircut holding a writing tablet inscribed in Sanskrit. In the pediment is a Brahminic bull. The Latin commemorates Sir William Jones, an English judge in Calcutta in the eighteenth century, who, without losing his own, absorbed so much of the local civilization that he discovered the links between the Indo-European languages.

    And there are older culinary links as well. You might not take to mulligatawny soup, but kedgeree is a pleasure; originally khitchri, an Indian confection of rice and beans, it became in the hands of Anglo-Indian cooks a mixture of rice, flaky fish (usually smoked haddock), sliced hard-boiled eggs, and cayenne pepper (with parsley to taste). Try it at home.

    And with it try Kendall-Jackson’s Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, a bright, refreshing white wine with a smoky center, from the Sonoma Valley of California, available in Minnesota at around fifteen dollars. Kendall-Jackson are the New Critics of the wine world. They seem to think their product should speak for itself, and so tell you little about its history or terroir, for that is what I gather advertising folk call “backstory” and the rest of us information that might lead to a rounded appreciation (those who are ignorant of history, after all, are condemned to repeat it). Though, come to think, it is perhaps this deliberate, fresh-eyed innocence that is itself the backstory of California. Anyway, if this wine speaks for itself, what it says is “Hi.” And the kedgeree has enough history for both. They make a marriage a good deal more pleasing than the concrete confection I fear is about to rise on the site of Château Floyd B. Olson. Eheu fugaces

  • Bite-sized Sensations

    What could be your key to fame and glory, the secret to a happy marriage, and the only way to make it through the entertaining season with grace and aplomb? Why, it’s the cocktail party, dahling. Libations aside, the best reason for hosting this type of gathering is that success doesn’t depend on a mass of properly roasted meat and a harmonious table. Scoring a hit is much easier when you can focus on the area your eaters care about most: the hors d’oeuvre.

    Think about it: How many times have you been enthralled by the appetizer portion of a restaurant menu, only to be bored and dismayed by the entrées? Those inspired small bites are seductive, for this is one area where chefs get to play a little, test some boundaries, and still leave you wanting more. Isn’t that also the recipe for a really great party?

    Hors d’oeuvre, that nightmare for proofreaders, is a French phrase meaning “outside of the work.” Originally an architect’s term for any structure not incorporated into the main building design, it somehow crept into the culinary lexicon as the appetizer served before the main dish. Similarly, an amuse-bouche, or “mouth amuser,” is an even smaller one-bite treat, usually offered in restaurants as a gift from the chef. Nearly every culture has some sort of noshing culture: Italians eat cured meats and marinated vegetables for their antipasto, Peruvians snack on tasty fried bocaditos, Russians put out a spread of zakuski to nibble while sharing vodka, and the Spanish have made an art of sampling tapas.

    Starters, as hors d’oeuvres are more popularly termed, can come stacked into tiny towers, rolled and stuffed, filled and folded; they include dips, spreads, salsas, and fondues. They can be foie-gras fussy or chip ’n’ dip simple. When considering what to serve for a party, it’s simple to hit upon the right combination: Know thy guest. Always consider those for whom you cook, and the rest will fall into place.

    A truly victorious hors d’oeuvre is one that speedily disappears from the tray. People may claim to love your Grape-Nuts Balls, but if you have thirty left over at the end of the night, it was a bomb; time to regroup. Champion appetizers tend to be simple but loaded with flavor; there may be much advance prep work, but the final construction should be easily executed, as you’ll have to keep refilling that tray. Bonus points go to the bites that don’t drip, fall apart on the way from tray to mouth, or require ladies to chomp down in unseemly nutcracker doll-like ways. Below are a few that fit the bill.

    Crostini: The versatile standby
    Arrange baguette slices on a sheet tray. Brush the rounds with olive oil and dash with sea salt. Place in a 400-degree oven for about ten minutes, or until nicely browned. Remove from oven and let cool. Smear with a mixture of goat cheese, mascarpone, and lemon zest, and perch a kalamata olive on top. Or top with Roquefort and drizzle with lavender honey. Or lay on a fat slice of ventresca tuna topped with a curl of roasted red pepper and one rosemary leaf. Or try a hunk of dark, dark chocolate. Or do whatever moves you.

    Cuke Cups: Fresh elegance
    Peel and slice a seedless cucumber into two-inch chunks. With a melon baller, scoop out the center of each, leaving a bottom. Dice sashimi-grade tuna into small cubes, toss with sesame oil, soy sauce, mirin, black sesame seeds, chives, and a touch of Sriracha. Spoon tuna into cuke cups and top with more chives.

    Bleu Cheese Chips: For the culinarily challenged
    Pile a bag of kettle-fried potato chips on a plate. Stir bleu cheese crumbles into crème fraîche to achieve a dressing consistency, and add a touch of Tabasco. Drizzle over the chips, top with more bleu cheese crumbles. No kidding.

    Deconstructed Guacamole: Built to impress
    Using toothpicks, skewer a half-cut cherry tomato with the flat side down. Then thread a sliver of white onion onto the skewer, a chunky square of avocado, a bit of peeled lime, and a flag of cilantro. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

    Root-beer Float Shooters: A sweet novelty
    Using shot glasses, pour a dash of root-beer schnapps, a half-tablespoon of ice cream, and fill with root beer. Cap with a dollop of whipped cream.

    Frico Crisps: The cracker alternative
    Line a sheet tray with parchment paper. Grate small piles of Parmigiano-Reggiano, about two inches around, onto paper, spaced apart. Sprinkle finely chopped sage onto each pile. Place in a 400-degree oven for 45 minutes until mounds are melty. Remove from the oven and let cool for a minute. Lift rounds from tray with a spatula and mold them around the back of a metal spoon to give a curve.

  • Stage Mother

    Patricia Olive has no children. So you’d think she’d be spared that dinnertime nightmare: This one hates vegetables, this one eats only bologna sandwiches with ketchup, this one weeps about dead animals every time you serve beef. But when the Guthrie Theater staged Six Degrees of Separation in 2003, the veteran props manager got a taste of what it’s like.

    “In the play, a young con artist makes pasta for a huge party,” Olive says. “It had to be real because there’s a long scene where the actors are eating it. But one was allergic to wheat products and another one refused to eat anything with tomatoes, green peppers, or onions.” Ultimately, a compromise was concocted: rice pasta topped with blackberry applesauce that had been blended with a drop of yellow food coloring, making it a deep orange. “We spent a long time experimenting to come up with that.”

    But even with Olive’s hard work and careful planning, a new problem emerged: permanently stained napkins that had to be thrown away after each show.

    “We discovered the actors were pretending to eat this vile pasta, then spitting it into their napkins,” Olive laughs. “So over the course of the run, the portions got smaller and smaller.”

    Olive grew up in Detroit. She earned a degree from Western Michigan University in industrial education, and started her career in 1976 as a shop teacher in the Kalamazoo public schools. But she was always involved in theater: community, summer stock, experimental.

    After nine years as a teacher, she took a job as the production manager for a small theater company in Florida. And she’s been in theater full time ever since. She worked in New Jersey, Tennessee, and Colorado before a friend mentioned in 2002 that the Guthrie Theater needed an experienced prop manager.

    “I’d only ever driven through Minnesota,” Olive says. “But the Guthrie has such a wonderful reputation. Then I met with [artistic director] Joe Dowling. And that was it.”

    In addition to consulting on sets and costumes, Olive oversees every single item actors use on stage: stuffed animals, bells, power tools. She has an associate manager, Sarah Gullickson, and a staff of six, plus a sewing area, a prop room in the theater, a warehouse on East Hennepin Avenue, and an on-site kitchen for preparing food that will be consumed during performances.

    She had to fight for that last amenity.

    “When the architects sent over the plans for the new theater, the prop kitchen they gave us was only six feet wide,” she recalls. “That wasn’t even enough room to open a dishwasher or oven door.” After some negotiating, Olive got a real working kitchen, about the size you’d find in an efficiency apartment.

    Still, much of the food that appears on stage is fake. The seedcake served by Miss Temple in the current production of Jane Eyre, for instance, is made of painted upholstery foam, joint compound, and Flex glue; the “seeds” actually are pockmarks made with the end of a black Sharpie pen. Nevertheless, Olive and her crew did bake an authentic cake to use as a model.

    In another currently running play, The Home Place, the actors eat shortbread and cold beef sandwiches—which are real, prepared by a prop liaison during each performance—and drink “Irish whiskey”—actually watered-down, unsweetened, decaffeinated instant iced tea.

    “Often we need to provide something that looks like alcohol,” says Olive. “Juicy Juice is our wine of choice—we’ve found if it’s spilled on a costume it will wash out.”

    Some plays call for a combination of real and fake food. In the recent production of Private Lives, for instance, the actors both ate and threw brioche. Rather than waste dozens of rolls a day—and deal with the inevitable crumbs that would be left all over the stage floor—Olive bought a couple fresh-baked brioches from Rustica, the bakery in South Minneapolis, and made up a basket of fakes. The biggest challenge, she said, was marking them so actors could tell the difference.

    Over the years, one of the oddest things she’s run into, again and again, is an actor who will smoke for a part but refuses to eat meat. (Theaters are a rare exception to the statewide smoking ban in public places, which went into effect October 1; for the sake of art, you can still light up onstage.)

    “Often we’ll make steaks out of bread sprayed with Kitchen Bouquet, this brown spray-on coloring that’s supposed to make food look pretty,” Olive says. “My job is to make the food look good to the audience, and I try not to make it repulsive. But it doesn’t have to be great cuisine. That’s the actors’ job: to look like they’re loving every bit of what they’re eating.”

  • Pro-Fusion

    You can argue whether globalization is good for the planet or good for workers, but when it comes to gastronomy, the influx of foreign flavors has definitely enlivened the local dining scene.

    Mention fusion cuisine nowadays, and people are likely to think of the high-end stylings of celebrity chefs like Wolfgang Puck and Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Puck’s 20.21 menu at Walker Art Center combines East and West in dishes such as Shanghai Maine lobster with crispy spinach and Chinese risotto, while Vongerichten’s menu for Chambers Kitchen occasionally marries East and Midwest—as in a Berkshire pork chop with shiitakes and snowpeas, or a tempura salt-and-pepper walleye.

    But look a little further, and you’ll find fusion everywhere: Somali restaurants like Safari and Hamdi serve roasted goat over Italian spaghetti, a legacy of Italian colonialism. When local Ecuadorians get homesick, they go to Charly’s Polleria in northeast Minneapolis, or the Guayaquil Restaurant on East Lake Street, and order a heaping plate of chaulafan-fried rice with ham and chicken, which they learned to love at the Chinese restaurants in Quito and Guayaquil. At BonXai in St. Paul, a Hmong family took over a low-rent steak house, and added Thai curries and Italian pastas to the menu—along with a seared tuna salad that probably came from Japan via California, but can now be found in different versions on half the menus in town. The banh mi sandwiches available for takeout at Vietnamese delis like Saigon Express and Vinh Loi are made on baguettes, and slathered with mayonnaise and pork pâté, relics of the French colonial influence. And Vietnamese restaurants aren’t the only places serving banh mi anymore: The new Blackbird restaurant at 50th and Bryant in Minneapolis serves banh mi on focaccia, alongside curried lamb meatballs, crawfish hotdish, and pizza topped with Brie and apples.

    Then there’s a sophisticated type of fusion, as at Ngon, a stylish new Vietnamese bistro in St. Paul’s Frogtown. According to its website, Ngon “strive[s] to use locally produced ingredients whenever possible and do our best to support the local economy; from using organic Peace Coffee in our Vietnamese coffee mix to having an exclusively Minnesota beer list” (it also boasts a sophisticated wine list). The flavors here are distinctly Vietnamese—their pho (beef noodle soup) is one of the best in town—but you’ll also find such hybrids as Vietnamese beef over pappardelle noodles, a superb ahi-tuna mango salad, and a succulent lamb shank with pho spices, served over lemongrass rice.

     

    Locally speaking, fusion isn’t exactly new; East and West have been meeting in Minnesota for decades. Minnesota chow mein, with its rich green slurry of stewed celery, minced pork and crispy fried noodles, is unknown in China, but has been a tradition here since at least the 1930s. Cooking teacher and restaurateur Leeann Chin has introduced generations of Midwesterners to the joys of cream-cheese wontons and Chinese chicken salad. (The bar menu at 20.21 pays tribute to this venerable tradition by offering both a Chinese chicken salad and mini-burgers of Kobe beef topped with a wasabi aioli.)

    Back in the day, restaurant critics and food snobs like yours truly used to turn up their noses at cream-cheese wontons because they weren’t “authentic.” But one good thing about globalization is that it’s putting that whole silly conversation about authenticity to rest. What’s authentically Japanese? Tempura? Nope—introduced by Portuguese sailors in the sixteenth century. Tonkatsu? Another Western import, originally known as katsu retsu, which was how the Japanese pronounced cutlet.

    The Japanese did invent teppanyaki cooking shortly after World War II as their own version of East-West fusion, but it really took hold in the U.S. thanks to immigrant chef Rocky Aoki, who built his Benihana chain of Japanese steakhouses on the premise that (as quoted in a Harvard Business School case study) “Americans enjoy eating in exotic surroundings but are deeply mistrustful of exotic foods.” And what about the spider rolls, rainbow rolls, and other specialty rolls served at so many local Japanese restaurants? They trace their ancestry to the California roll, invented in Los Angeles in the early ‘70s. Mt. Fuji, the Chinese-owned sushi and hibachi restaurant in Maple Grove, takes sushi innovation one step further: its “French-style” sushi includes rolls like the Treasure Island, filled with yellowtail tuna, blue crab, and crunchy tempura crumbs, topped with flying-fish roe in neon shades of red, orange, green, and black. This is a fantasy version of sushi that has never been seen in Japan or France.

     

    At its worst, fusion is a dumbing-down of ingredients taken out of context, for instance when steak, chicken, or fish are slathered with sweet-and-salty teriyaki sauce. But at its best, it brings together ingredients from different cuisines in imaginative juxtapositions—or, through innovative preparation or presentation of traditional dishes, offers a new insight or fresh appreciation.

    Saffron, in the Minneapolis Warehouse District, excels at fusion, even though Chef Sameh Wadi says he doesn’t like the term: “When I think of fusion, I think of wasabi mashed potatoes, and that turns me off.” But Wadi’s cuisine draws inspiration from all over the Mediterranean and Middle East: tagines and bisteeyas from North Africa; an eggplant dish from Turkey; a seasonal appetizer of white cheese and watermelon, popular in Egypt. (The menu changes frequently; don’t expect to find all those dishes when you visit.) The fusion concept is carried even further by combining those flavors with the aesthetics of contemporary cuisine. “In the Middle East we think about flavor only, and it’s not very pretty,” says Wadi. Best bets from Saffron’s current menu include the bisteeya, presented in a beggar’s purse, and the salmon and clam tagine, prepared with saffron, peppers, olives, fennel, and Yukon Gold potatoes.

    Some of the most creative culinary fusions come about when chefs from immigrant backgrounds get professional training and experience. Wadi was born in Kuwait of Palestinian parents, trained at the Art Institutes International in downtown Minneapolis, and worked at Solera and La Belle Vie before opening Saffron with his brother Saed.

    Hector Ruiz, chef-owner (with his wife Erin Ungerman) of the delightful new Café Ena in south Minneapolis, followed a similar path. Born in L.A. and raised in Mexico, he started cooking locally at Tucci Benucch in the Mall of America, and wound up in the Brown College’s Cordon Bleu Culinary Arts Program; that led to an internship with chef Alain Senderens at Lucas Carton in Paris (back before Senderens Restaurant renounced his three Michelin stars, cut his prices, and renamed the venerable restaurant after himself). The result is a repertoire in which more or less traditional preparations like the chile en hogada, a roasted pepper stuffed with ground beef, almonds and raisins, play off North American dishes like salmon croquetas, which are given a Latin flair. (At El Meson, Ruiz and Ungerman’s other restaurant, the menu has a more Caribbean flavor, but a similar versatility.)

    Sometimes fusion is very personal, as is the case with Nina Wong, who is ethnically Chinese, born in Vietnam, and raised in Minnesota, and Thomas Gnanapragasam, who is of Indian ancestry and was raised in Malaysia. When they married, Wong renamed her restaurant, formerly East River Market, the Chindian Café, and added daily specials like Indian Madras chicken and Malaysian nasi lemak to a menu of Chinese stir-fries, Asian noodle salads, and Vietnamese spring rolls.

    One of the most improbable fusions anywhere is the Ethiopian-Malaysian menu at T’s Place on East Lake Street in Minneapolis. Chef-owner Tee Belachew learned Malaysian cooking from his neighbor, Kin Lee, when Lee was the chef at the Singapore Restaurant in Maplewood; for a time, the two were partners at Singapore! in south Minneapolis. T’s Place offers traditional Ethiopian dishes as well as a sampling of Asian dishes prepared with Ethiopian seasonings. Lovers of steak tartare, for instance, will enjoy its Ethiopian counterpart, kitfo: chopped beef seasoned with clarified butter and light chili pepper, available raw, lightly seared, or fully cooked. Belachew’s Asian specialties, such as the spicy bean curd and spicy shrimp, don’t have the subtlety of versions you might find at Peninsula or Singapore! (where Kin Lee is again cooking, after a long absence), but for gastronomic adventurers they’re worth a try. Belachew struggled against long odds to open his own restaurant, and still faces big challenges, ranging from road construction on Lake Street to finding reliable staff, so I’m rooting for him; if the wait’s too long at the Town Talk Diner down the block, stop in at T’s.

    With Azia and now Temple, chef-owner Thom Pham has created two of the sexiest and most sophisticated-looking dining spaces in the Twin Cities. I admire Pham’s effort to break out of the low-budget Asian restaurant ghetto, so I wish I could be more enthusiastic about the cuisine. Unfortunately, most of my experiences at both restaurants have been disappointing. The Asian fusion at Azia invites comparison with other Eat Street restaurants that have livelier fare and lower prices, including Yummy for Chinese, Peninsula for Malaysian, and Quang and Pho Tau Bay for Vietnamese. And Temple’s prices put it in competition with hot spots like 20.21 and Chambers Kitchen, but gastronomically it isn’t in their league. My suggestion: Try both places at happy hour (daily from 3 to 6 p.m. and 10 p.m. to 2 a.m.), when half-price appetizers and cocktails are more in line with value.

     

    20.21 Restaurant & Bar by Wolfgang Puck
    in the Walker Art Center, 1750 Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis; 612-253-3410; www.wolfgangpuck.com

    Azia
    2550 Nicollet Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-813-1200; www.aziarestaurant.com

    Blackbird
    815 W. 50th St., Minneapolis; 612-823-4790; www.blackbirdmpls.com www.blackbirdmpls.com

    Café BonXai
    1613 University Ave. W., St. Paul; 651-644-1444

    Café Ena
    4601 Grand Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-824-4441; www.cafeena.com

    Chambers Kitchen
    in the Chambers Hotel, 901 Hennepin Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-767-6999; www.chambersminneapolis.com

    Charly’s Polleria
    2851 Central Ave. N.E., Minneapolis; 612-789-9535

    Chindian Café
    1500 E. Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis; 612-676-1818; www.chindiancafe.com

    Guayaquil Restaurant
    1526 E. Lake St., Minneapolis; 612-722-2346

    Hamdi Restaurant
    818 E. Lake St., Minneapolis; 612-823-9660

    Mt. Fuji
    7094 Main St. N., Maple Grove; 763-315-5885

    Ngon Bistro
    799 University Ave., St. Paul; 651-222-3301; www.ngonbistro.com

    Safari Restaurant
    1424 Nicollet Ave., Minneapolis; 612-872-4604; www.safarirestaurantmn.com

    Saffron
    123 N. Third St., Minneapolis; 612-746-5533; www.saffronmpls.com

    Saigon Express
    2538 Nicollet Ave., Minneapolis; 612-870-7979

    Temple
    1201 Harmon Pl., Minneapolis; 612-767-3770; www.mplstemple.com

    T’s Place
    2713 E. Lake St., Minneapolis; 612-724-8868

    Vinh Loi BBQ
    2515 Nicollet Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-872-2282