In 1944, the French government recruited more than a hundred thousand Algerian men—almost all Muslims—to defend France against the Nazi onslaught. Of course, most of these unfortunates had never set foot in France. Unlike Clint Eastwood’s uninsightful Letters From Iwo Jima, Days of Glory, written and directed by a Frenchman of Algerian origin, is already being praised for its brutal realism and for the sympathy with which it portrays its virtually unknown subjects. It’s virtually a lock for a best foreign film Oscar, and in a better world it would be one for best picture, playing on screens across the country.
Category: Article
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Iraq in Fragments
An amazement. James Longley’s brave and beautiful documentary is filmed without judgment and bookended with the voices of children aged beyond their years. The first in a triptych of stories is a Sunni boy straight out of Dickens, an apprentice to a cruel mechanic who lost his father and struggles to survive while his city burns. Shiites make up the middle section; they are charged with anger over years of oppression, at some times brutally enforcing Islamic law, at others yearning for democracy. Finally, a Kurdish child ruminates on God and life like a prophet, abandoning his schooling to tend sheep while black smoke fills the sky—this time from baking ovens that offer hope for the future.
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Patty Griffin
What’s the easy way to identify the smartest country music stars? They cover Patty Griffin songs. The redheaded singer/songwriter has a knack for stories about troubled hearts laid bare, set to wistful melodies drawing on traditional folk and country music. She’s also capable of tossing in bursts of three-minute rock ’n’ roll. Her songs have launched or helped cement the careers of the Dixie Chicks, Mary Chapin Carpenter, Martina McBride, and a raft of other brainy babes. Now forty-three, Griffin is a star in her own right, one firmly entrenched within the alternative folk and country music communities; no doubt tunes from her new blues-tinged album will make a few others famous as well.
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Trans Am
Like that computerized gadget you just bought, so much electronic-based music is obsessively entertaining—at least for a time. If your fickle ears are anxiously awaiting the next innovation in computer-based song engineering, Trans Am’s new album might be just the ticket. On Sex Change, the band’s sonic innovations stick in your head, leaving you craving spin after spin. Brainy, techy, and really quite sexy, with meditative post-rock beats and a hypnotic air, this is music that seems destined to sell cars someday. Soon. Until then, we’re hooked.
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Sparklehorse
A decade ago, Mark Linkous almost joined the long list of self-medicating rockers found dead in hotel rooms; he overdosed in a hotel bathroom and passed out with his legs pinned underneath him for fourteen hours. When doctors finally straightened out his limbs, he had a heart attack and was declared medically dead—if only for a few seconds. Fortunately, Linkous still walks among us, and makes the kind of music that might groove the dead: trance-y and wistful, with the barest whisper of a backbeat. His latest album, Dreamt For Light Years In The Belly Of A Mountain, finds him occupying a hazy border territory somewhere between Daniel Johnston and Tom Waits: a little bit crazy; a little bit crazy like a fox. 612-332-1775; www.first-avenue.com
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Mahler’s The Song of the Earth
Mahler’s romantic, moody, and sometimes maudlin compositions were among the final artistic statements of the nineteenth century, a goodbye to all that and a wary greeting to a new century. In the symphonic song cycle The Song of the Earth, he sets themes from Chinese poetry about the end of things to music that moves from death-tramping gloom to rarefied joy. The end result, at once transcendent and emotionally demanding, sort of approximates the feel of life passing before your eyes. 651-291-1144; www.thespco.org
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Trampled By Turtles
The definitive sound of the North Country remains elusive, even as the Twin Ports become glutted with great live music venues and bands worth checking out. Is Duluth a folk music town, or a hotbed of alternative rock? We have no idea, but straddling those genres is Trampled By Turtles—a band loosely related to a bluegrass quartet, boasting banjo and bad attitude. They’ll rip into a Bill Monroe classic one moment, and follow it up with a meandering Radiohead reverie. This set of shows celebrates the Turtles’ new album, Red Alert: Trouble Ahead. If this is what Duluth sounds like, then we definitely need to visit more often. 612-332-1775; www.first-avenue.com
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Green is God
I never expected to find love at a roadside market. In Florida, no less. But there, down an aisle from stacks of bright oranges and piles of juicy grapefruit, was a small, plastic tub of guacamole so smooth and delicious, so perfectly spiced, that I fell head over heels. It’s uncommon to find guacamole that truly lives up to the beauty of a fresh, buttery avocado. Most end up as blobby, over-whipped, mousse-like concoctions that carry no punch. Yet, this roadside gem was a chunky mash of silky avocado pieces and bright bursts of citrus, with a subtle undercurrent of heat. It’s unfortunate that I have forgotten the name and location of the market, because I fear that the memory of that guacamole will never go away.
I’m not alone in my devotion to the odd, nubby fruit and its offspring dip. The avocado has been thought to be an aphrodisiac for ages. The Aztecs saw it as a fertility symbol, naming it ahuacatl, meaning “testicle,” most likely because of its shape. Some stories even relate an ancient custom of locking up the virgins during harvest time. The sexy fruit’s reputation has proven hard to shake. It wasn’t until the 1920s, when American growers spun a virtuous public-relations campaign, that good citizens felt able to purchase the fruit without fear of damaging their reputations. There’s little doubt that the avocado has hit the mainstream: more are consumed on Super Bowl Sunday than any other day, including Cinco de Mayo. On that special Sunday, it is estimated that fans will consume nearly fifty million pounds of avocado, enough to cover a football field with close to twelve feet of guacamole.
There are two main varieties of avocado grown in this country, Fuerte and Hass. The Fuerte tree is largely credited with creating the California avocado industry, which supplies roughly ninety percent of the country’s crop. Among a group of such trees once brought up from Mexico, only one survived the great freeze of 1913. It was named Fuerte, the Spanish word for “vigorous.” All Hass avocado trees can be traced back to a single “mother tree” planted in La Habra Heights, California, by a mail carrier named Rudolph Hass, who patented his tree in 1935. The original tree, which spawned thousands more, died of root rot in 2002.
It’s important to understand the splendor of avocados beyond guacamole. More than a few Californians have recounted memories of eating the fruit from their own backyards, simply scooping out the flesh with a spoon and maybe adding a dash of salt. In solid, un-mashed form, a slice of avocado on a piece of crusty bread lives up to its Chinese name of “butter fruit.” The beauty lies in its mild flavor and soft-yet-firm texture, which provides a welcome contrast to a salty Cobb salad or a thick turkey sandwich.
To the world and its chefs, the avocado is a much-loved ingredient. Who doesn’t adore a sushi roll that contains a sliver of avocado? Balanced superbly with raw tuna in the Four Seasons roll from Bagu Sushi, the avocado nicely complements a swath of flying fish roe. In the restaurant’s French Kiss roll, plump with crab, asparagus, and cream cheese, it adds just the right touch of buttery lightness. Though I haven’t found a great example locally, one of the most refreshing desserts I’ve ever had was a Filipino drink made with avocados and ice cream.
Sometimes it’s simplicity that helps the avocado shine. The linked restaurants of Zelo, Bacio, and Ciao Bella have a salad called the Brasiliana, in which cubes of ripe avocado mingle with small palm hearts, chunks of tomato, and slices of onion and celery in a tart lemon vinaigrette. In each simple-yet-elegant bite, the avocado nearly melts with the citrus and softens the slight crunch and tang of the palm heart. While not intricate, the dish celebrates the avocado’s strengths. The 112 Eatery offers a more surprising use of the fruit that is no less graceful. Their crostini, with white anchovies and avocado, pits the dusky and briny against the fresh and bright, creating an engaging bite. If you’ve fallen hard for guacamole, and all other uses for the avocado seem ridiculous, I hear you. For ease and accessibility, as well as freshness, you can’t do better than Chipotle. Squelch your hate of chain establishments: Their bright green guac is made often and made well. If the need is less urgent, and the situation calls for a more refined atmosphere, Masa’s Guacamole Picado hits the mark. Tart and chunky, you’ll want to eat it with the chips, the veggies, and even a spoon. For a good show and a little instruction on perfect mashing, check out the legendary tableside guac at Tejas, where they know how to work the mortar and pestle.
It’s rare to find two people who like their guacamole exactly the same way. The key to having great guac may be the key to all great relationships: Keep it fresh. Possibly the best option is to bring home a bag of avocados, tuck into the kitchen, and create your own guacamole, one that will keep you coming back for more. Just don’t over-mash.Guacamole
3 ripe avocados
Juice from 1 medium lime
1/4 cup chopped white onion
3/4 cup freshly chopped cilantro
1 tsp. crushed red pepper
Salt and pepper to taste
Set aside one pit after scooping out avocados. Throw avocado and all other ingredients together and lightly mash with a fork. Depending on your preference, you may want to add tomatoes or use jalapenos. Add the spare pit (to help keep the guac green), cover, and let sit for a bit before serving.SHOP TALK
If you haven’t checked in at Solera in a while, the new seasonal/neuva tapas list—modern small plates inspired by the cuisines of Spain—are worth a fresh visit. Included are wine-braised rabbit with chocolate and citrus and deviled eggs with blue crab and cumin. Yes, please! If, like me, you’re not keen on decisions, the chef will design for you a tasting menu of eight pieces for under $30 (solera-restaurant.com) … From February 23–25, the Minneapolis Convention Center will be packed to the rafters with noshers and snackers looking for the best bite our towns have to offer—in other words, it’s time once again for the Twin Cities Food and Wine Experience. See foodwineshow.com for details … Don’t forget that the St. Paul Farmers’ Market (stpaulfarmersmarket.com) has winter hours, Saturdays from 9 a.m. to noon. The bounty of local cheeses, baked goods, meats, eggs and chocolates will help remind you that there will be a thaw. … The culinary outings at Stillwater’s Outing Lodge (outinglodge.com) are both creative and tasty. This month’s “Food for Lovers” dinner on Valentine’s Day includes oysters and chocolate, while the Mardi Gras ball on February 20 celebrates that last great meal before Lent with lobster bisque, escargot, and foie gras.CUISINE SUPREME
Temple Bar and Restaurant
A stellar Asian restaurant has been one of the major things missing from the downtown Minneapolis scene. Tom Pham, the force behind Azia, has filled the need with Temple. Sultry and opulent, Temple took over the old Tiburon space and kept the giant fish tank, now filled with huge, colorful Koi. The menu’s French/Indonesian focus is apparently inspired by Pham’s grandmother, but it also plays with other flavors. Small-plate standouts include the refreshing scallop ceviche with Asian pear salad, and the more decadent pan-roasted quail with duck liver ravioli. Tea-roasted pork tenderloin, a beautiful champagne-poached salmon, and amazingly tender Mandarin orange-braised short ribs are all great options for bigger plates, but pass on the stone-grilled Kobe, which doesn’t live up to the price. As at Azia, the saucily named drinks are just as important as the food: try the Innocent Geisha or When Anton Met Gwenevere for an interesting night. 1201 Harmon Place, Minneapolis; 612-767-3770; www.mplstemple.comThe General Store Café
Longtime patrons of this Minnetonka retail institution know that a perfect end to a flurry of spending is a quiet table and some freshly made fare. Hearty sandwiches on Breadsmith loaves, baked daily, are piled high with just about whatever you want. Soups and other specials change daily, although the ginger-laced chicken salad is so popular that it seems to stay year-round. For dessert, dense cakes and a legendary bread pudding are rivaled only by a well-rounded selection of Sebastian Joe’s ice cream. 14401 Highway 7, Minnetonka; 952-935-7131; www.generalstoreofminnetonka.comBascali’s Brick Oven
Sometimes the pizza is not the reason to go to a pizza joint—even when it’s brick-oven pizza. Because, while good pizza can be had everywhere, good calzones are rare. And at Bascali’s, a little hole in the wall in St. Paul, the calzones will capture your heart. Slowly baked in an imported Italian brick oven, the calzones emerge with a crispy outer crust and fresh ingredients inside that are tender and avoid the soupiness that plague lesser calzones. Especially recommended are the pungent California chicken version with pesto and garlic and the classic sausage- and pepper-filled Italiano; but the owners wisely include the option to create your own as well. 1552 Como Ave., St. Paul; 651-645-6617; www.bascalis.com www.bascalis.com -
Red Heat from Spain
I have often thought that the Forty Martyrs of Sebasteia should be the patron saints of Minnesota. Never mind that they are most likely mythical; they can stand for all the other martyrs the Romans executed in the first three centuries A.D. And the myth is certainly appropriate to our chilly state.
The Forty, it is said, were Roman legionaries serving on the Empire’s Euphrates frontier in what is now eastern Turkey when they were given the command to offer sacrifice to the Roman gods. When they refused, they were ordered to stand out in the middle of a frozen lake ’til they changed their minds. One of them did actually give way, legging it to the shore and then to a nearby bathhouse, which had been fired up by the detachment’s commanding officer in order to provide an allurement to apostasy. He promptly exploded. And the bathhouse keeper no less promptly ran out onto the ice to make the number of martyrs back up to forty. What then? Crowns, of course, descended from heaven onto the martyrs’ frozen heads, to the accompaniment of unearthly music and the crashing applause of the first-night audience. Martyrdom on Ice: If Minnesota doesn’t like the title, you could try it on Broadway.
An appropriate saintly patron is also apparently being sought for the Internet. The heavenly protector of Al Gore’s invention will probably be Saint Isidore, bishop of Seville in southern Spain in the early seventh century, and compiler of a work that swiftly became the medieval equivalent of Wikipedia. The Internet and Isidore surely deserve each other; Isidore’s Etymologies are replete with secondhand information, difficult to navigate, and often inaccurate. While the Internet …
What Isidore says about wine, for instance, is a characteristic blend of the derivative, the unpalatable, and the obvious. He alludes to Falernian, the famous sweet white wine from ancient Campania, which he had read about in Roman authors like Horace but is hardly likely to have savored himself. Beverages he is more likely to have actually sampled sound rather less pleasant—for instance, Oenomelum, a sickly syrup compounded of wine and honey.
But then, just as you give up on him, Isidore displays a gem of genuine interest. He mentions the wines of Gaza, carried from the Holy Land as ballast in the ships bringing pilgrims home from Jerusalem. This is interesting because archaeologists find the distinctive, dumpy flasks that held Gaza wine at excavations of post-Roman sites all over Western Europe. In fact, they find them as far away as the southern coast of England, where grand beach barbecues seem to have greeted the arrival of merchant ships coming from the eastern Mediterranean. It is good when the written story fits the physical facts. In fact, Gaza wine is important as evidence that Mediterranean trade long survived the end of the Roman Empire, until the Arab invasions swept through the lands east and south of the Mediterranean, reaching, within a century of his death, southern Spain where Isidore had lived and written.
Funnily enough, Isidore has nothing to say about the wines of his native Spain. It seems that they were no better publicized in the seventh century than they are now. That may be why they are such an excellent value when you do find them.
Try, for instance, the 2004 vintage of Protocolo, which costs less than seven dollars hereabouts. This wine comes from the high plains of La Manchuela in the bottom right-hand corner of Spain, an area with extremes of climate that the Forty Martyrs would have found familiar. The color is a deepest red, like the workers’ flag (which shrouded oft our martyred dead)—this area was a stronghold of the International Brigades during the Spanish Civil War. The grape is the Tempranillo, the variety made famous by Rioja, but Protocolo is innocent of the turpsy oak associated with those famous wines. This is a well-balanced and fruity wine with a firm scrunch in the center of the taste. This was pleasing with a piece of steak and tasted just as good with pasta. One can imagine it accompanying paella. At that price one could even mull it with suitable spices. If you do, be careful not to boil off the alcohol (there’s plenty). Anything to keep winter at a distance. -
One for the Sons of Bitches
Do you know who wrote your favorite film? If the names Sidney Howard, Frances Goodrich, and Joseph Stefano fill you with a sense of admiration, then congratulations on recognizing what most of us consider trivial: These are the people who wrote the classics Gone With The Wind, It’s A Wonderful Life, and Psycho. Even among filmmakers, the obscure status of screenwriters tends to be the norm—director Nicholas Ray once grumbled, “If it were all in the script, why make the film?”
Ray was referring to the gulf between the script and what ultimately shows on the silver screen. By the time a finished flick hits your hometown theater, the screenplay, just one small part of the overall process of filmmaking, has devolved into a mongrel combination of original and consumer demand. Sometimes, as with “high-concept” franchises like the Mission: Impossible series, you don’t even need the kernel of original thought—the script is almost an afterthought. At the very least, the screenplay is interpreted by a dozen very different pairs of eyes, from the director’s to every actor who mangles a line, to the cinematographer and editor. If you want power over your art, screenwriting is the last medium to pursue.
Nevertheless, as it is for so many others in the movie business, an Academy Award is the premier accolade for a screenwriter. Perhaps to make up for the lowly status of writers in the pecking order, the Writers Branch of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences seems to take great pride in making oddball choices in films it selects to vie for the best screenplay Oscar (individual branches of the Academy—Directors, Composers, Film Editors, etc.—nominate films for awards in their categories). Sometimes the directors go crazy and give David Lynch a nod, but for the most part, the Writers Branch has a habit of unearthing the strange bedfellow, nominating and awarding an established literary figure (George Bernard Shaw, John Irving), or tipping its hat to an edgy new presence like Quentin Tarantino. While the Academy as a whole often bestows crowd-pleasers like Rocky or Titanic with the best picture award, screenplay awards have gone to such daring fare as Network, L. A. Confidential, and The Piano.
Best Original Screenplay remains the only Oscar that Citizen Kane won, and the only Oscar that Orson Welles ever could claim as his own. Charlie Kaufman, perhaps the best screenwriter working in America today, has his for Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind. He was also nominated the previous year for his masterwork, Adaptation, a movie whose conceit was that a screenwriter named Charlie Kaufman created an imaginary twin brother Donald, and together they attempted to adapt an unfilmable book into a decent screenplay (both Charlie and the imaginary twin were nominated in real life). Pedro Almodóvar has his, too, for Talk To Her.
Because it rewards eccentricity, there is a certain hip factor to the best original screenplay Oscars. This category remains the one corner of the Academy where, year after year, some of the coolest films get nominations—and actually win. While Sideways might earn nods for best picture and best director, no one expects it to actually win those awards … but it did earn Alexander Payne and Jim Taylor statuettes for best adapted screenplay. In 1995, Christopher McQuarrie’s Byzantine Usual Suspects beat out the much more classically structured (and ham-fisted) Braveheart; and Preston Sturges—a comic genius and arguably one of our greatest directors—has three nominations for his writing, one of which (The Great McGinty) resulted in an Oscar.
But just as the Academy likes to award actors- turned-directors (Robert Redford, Clint Eastwood, Kevin Costner, Mel Gibson)—perhaps knowing these icons would never win an acting award—so, too, it awards actors who lower themselves to write. Billy Bob Thornton, a legitimately decent actor, owns a little gold man for writing Sling Blade, as do Matt Damon and Ben Affleck for Good Will Hunting; Emma Thompson has one for acting in Howard’s End and another for her adaptation of Sense and Sensibility. Certainly, it does the Writers Branch no harm to welcome these high-profile types into its inner circle; while one could accuse the members of kowtowing to the stars, there’s also a case to be made for crediting the passion of writers—whoever they are—in bringing to the screen a work that they’re especially tuned into. Affleck and Damon were barely on the rise when they won their screenplay award, as was Thornton; and Thompson simply adored Austen.
Despite that passion, only the most devoted film buffs seem to glom on to published screenplays. Plays, too, are seldom read, but often published in the hopes that they’ll be produced (moreover, while theater buffs outside large cities might never get to see the new Pulitzer-winning play, movies are accessible anywhere). And if you’ve ever cracked a copy of Kurosawa’s Seven Samurai with the best intentions—as I’ve done—you’re likely eventually to set it down and cue the DVD instead. Robert Towne’s Chinatown, rightfully heralded as one of the greatest screenplays ever written and taught in the best scriptwriting classes, is one exception of a well-read script. It remains that writer’s only Oscar—he’d been nominated for Last Detail and Shampoo in addition to Chinatown, for three nominations in as many years; sadly, it may have damned him to a lifetime of comparison. (His most recent work was the risible Ask the Dust.)
The script for Chinatown reads like one of Dashiell Hammett’s hard-boiled thrillers, sparse and compelling; it still makes one shudder at its grasp of evil. But do we recoil from the wretched Noah Cross as we read him on the page, or because of what we remember of John Huston and how his acting in that role provoked such dread? Thing is, Chinatown is a classic because of its screenplay but also because of Roman Polanski’s vision, which gave the film its sense of foreboding, and its grim, cynical ending—which the director changed from Towne’s upbeat close. Then, too, there is Nicholson’s foolish leading man, John A. Alonzo’s washed-out cinematography, and Jerry Goldsmith’s moody score. Add to all of these a producer in Robert Evans, who brought these talents together and kept them from one another’s throats.
When Irving G. Thalberg was the boss of Universal Studios during the mid-1920s, he bluntly summed up the prevailing attitude toward those who toiled on screenplays: “The writer is the most important person in Hollywood. But we must never tell the sons of bitches.” Studios have always been desperate for good ideas, and the screenwriter is your source for this most important product. Ultimately, though, no screenplay—from Citizen Kane to Chinatown—can stand alone as a classic. Perhaps this is because film is both utterly collaborative and thoroughly permanent. Plays are momentary, changing with each production, and the faces, voices, and places in a book are visualized differently by each person who reads it. But a movie, once made, exists essentially forever. Just as no one can ever remake Chinatown without seeing Jack Nicholson, no one can go back to Towne’s original vision, even if someone were foolish enough to attempt a remake. It’s in our collective consciousness now.
Movies need screenwriters as much as they need actors and actress, producers and directors and editors. And while the writers are the ones who see the film first, in their heads, they are perhaps the ones who suffer most as they watch their vision mutate into the final product. The screenwriter might indeed be the most important son of a bitch in Hollywood, but he is not the only son of a bitch by far.