Category: Article

  • Il Vesco Vino

    With its creaky floors, exposed brick, and multiple fireplaces, the Victorian manse at 579 Selby has always welcomed diners with casual elegance. When it housed The Vintage Restaurant, the food reviews were mixed, but with the opening of Il Vesco Vino (The Bishop’s Wine), the cuisine finally matches its surroundings in terms of both quality and comfort. The venerable family behind I Nonni and Buon Giorno discreetly took over the space and brought in their honored Italian recipes for dishes like ventresca tuna, beef carpaccio, grilled octopus, and a dense and satisfying gnocchi—all paired with interesting wines offered by the carafe. 579 Selby Ave., St. Paul; 651-222-7000; www.ilvescovino.com

  • The Magical Mystery Cure

    The first time I smoked pot, I was in eighth grade. I smoked it. I inhaled. And I enjoyed it. The inaugural inhalation wasn’t planned or anything. My best buddy and I happened to be snooping around her older sister’s bedroom, and we happened upon her hookah. Holla! Just having that opium den artifact in our hot little hands was enough to make the to-smoke-or-not-to-smoke decision for us. It was a four-foot-tall, carved affair with tentacles jutting out all over—the stuff of Janis Joplin album covers and seventies cop movies.

    If the events of that afternoon had been a syllogistic proposition, it would have broken down something like this: Hookah is to bored eighth-grade nerd girls as rabbit hole is to Alice in Wonderland. My friend and I looked at each other and wordlessly began rummaging through the dirty clothes on the floor of her sister’s bedroom for a Bic lighter.

    Four hours after bringing that hookah to my lips for the first time, I was mapping out a plan for where I could purchase this magical substance, how much it would cost, how I was going to afford it, where I would smoke it, and, of course, how not to get caught. I soon deduced that the best time for me to do it was before my first class, back behind the convenience store in the strip mall next to the school. Conveniently, that was also where I could buy it.
    What saves this story from being a script for an after-school special is that a couple of weeks into my rigorous self-medication regimen, my grades … shot through the roof! For the first time, it wasn’t at all difficult to concentrate, and all of my previously hated subjects (and their previously hated teachers) seemed infinitely and positively fascinating.

    That year, I got my first A in math after toking up and stumbling onto the realization that all math is plaid—as in, all mathematical communications are interrelated grids of different values. Calculus is really just a specific pattern of tartan. Once you know that, you can figure out pretty much everything.

    Full disclosure: I did become a somewhat less social creature than I’d been before starting to smoke pot, and I gained ten pounds. But that’s what happens when you’re holed up in your room—cranking Hall and Oates, reading Beowulf, and laughing like a bowl full of jelly while stuffing your face with Fritos.

    It’s just been established that THC (the active ingredient in marijuana) can slow the progression of Alzheimer’s disease. Before we all start mulching for the backyard herb garden, here’s a quote from the Scripps Research Institute (aka Team Ganja): “Our results provide a mechanism whereby the THC molecule can directly impact Alzheimer’s disease pathology,” the study authors wrote. “In addition, THC may prove valuable as a model for developing new and more effective drugs to treat the disease.” That’s a direct quote from the October 2006 issue of Molecular Pharmaceutics, which just happens to be lying around in my bathroom next to the National Enquirer.

    So, it sounds like the big plan is to do what big pharmaceutical companies do: isolate the THC molecule, put it in a pill, and give it a crazy name that alludes to its function and contents. (I did some focus grouping and came up with Doobitral.) Then, charge senior citizens twenty bucks a hit for it. For the old folks who can’t afford it, I’m suggesting that the State of Minnesota organize a monthly caravan of gaily painted VW microbuses to Vancouver.

    Of course, the company that comes up with the definitive formula for Doobitral should hire Willie Nelson as its celebrity spokesperson. Can’t you just see the commercial? Willie strolling in a waving field of cannabis, his guitar slung over his shoulder, a knowing smile crinkling in the corners of his eyes as the voiceover delivers the obligatory side-effects warning—Caution: Doobitral may cause the giggles, profound sloth, inability to sustain or even feign interest in sex or violence, a tendency to begin declarative sentences with “Dude,” and a craving for crunchy snacks.

    Finally, a warning to kids who may be reading this: If you find yourself tempted to indulge, you can always talk to a parent, teacher, or school counselor. Dude, any of them can probably hook you up with some Adderall or Ritalin.

  • Flyover Chic

    “Hey,” I was told, “there’s a great new bar in town—ya gotta go check it out.” The source, a well-known political player whose observations always come heavily seasoned with interlocking, multisyllabic profanities, chuckled perversely. “It’s the Red, White and Fucking Blue Bar.”

    “The Red White and Blue Bar?” I queried. “What is it? Some kind of patriotic, VFW kind of deal?”

    “No, you stupid bitch,” he said affectionately. “That’s its fucking name: the Red, White and Fucking Blue Bar. At the Chambers.”
    Not only has real estate tycoon Ralph Burnet built an artsy boutique hotel on the corner of Ninth and Hennepin, he’s installed a bar on the fifth-floor rooftop terrace.

    You can perhaps understand why it took some time for the news to sink in. Because most news outlets have rules censoring the granddaddy of four-letter words (including when Dick Cheney uses it), there hasn’t been much mention of the bar’s name in media reports extolling the virtues of the Chambers’ art, architecture, Jean-Georges food, and overall fabulousness. Even hotel staff get slightly nervous when the name comes up.

    “Uh, we prefer to call it the ‘rooftop lounge,’ ” said one. But on a cocktail-hour field trip to the Twin Cities’ new conclave of chic, the bar’s real name was on full display, in eponymous colored neon on the wall facing the entrance: “Red, White and Fucking Blue.” The signage is actually a 2004 artwork by Tracey Emin, one of many pieces from Burnet’s Young British Artists collection installed throughout the hotel.

    Emin’s art aside, there is nothing remotely red, white, or fucking blue about the RW&FB Bar, unless you count the gigantic red Powerball that hovers on a billboard near the outdoor terrace like some rumpled mope without a VIP pass. Red, white, and fucking blue bars are warm, rambunctious joints, bastions of elbow-rubbing diversity like Nye’s, Grumpy’s, or O’Gara’s—places where patrons have to get real drunk and noisy before an eyebrow is raised.

    There’s no room for that sort of lowbrow nonsense at the RW&FB Bar. The stark white, wall-to-wall-windowed room—with its stunning views, low-slung postmodern couches, and glittering, pristine bar lit by dangling, glowing rods—is as coolly beautiful as a supermodel, and just as remote. The stylish presentation carries over to the staff. Our server, who said her last job had been “slinging beers at guys” across the street at the truly red, white, and fucking bluish MacKenzie, now discussed the wine list using well-accented French. Her backless black dress (one of several items designed in New York expressly for the Chambers staff) offered a peek at a low-riding tattoo as she slinked through the room, serving drinks using the straight-backed, slightly-bent-knee technique favored by Playboy bunnies and other servers whose wardrobes make bending from the waist impossible under current laws governing public decency.
    “It’s very coastal,” a member of our party commented, and he was right. The place felt like one of the super-sleek hotels in Los Angeles or New York (the Standard or the Hudson, for example), where anyone exhibiting any kind of red, white, or fucking blue attitude would be seated in Siberia, if at all. Translated locally, that means come on down to the RW&FB Bar, but if you’re thinking about dressing up in your favorite reindeer sweater or embroidered sweatshirt, think again.

    Are Minnesotans ready to move into this kind of hipoisie hotel hyperspace? It would seem that for a certain demographic—older men, trophy girlfriends, and well-tended women of a certain age—the answer is yes. The paint had barely dried on the Chambers’ “open” sign when Burnet announced his plans to turn the Foshay Tower into the Twin Cities’ first W Hotel. But if you’re looking to hang with the truly arty and hip, they’re probably still where they’ve always been—tossing back cheap cocktails at Psycho Suzi’s.

  • The Gandy Dancer

    The heat rose into the clearest dawn I’d ever seen. A corridor of one hundred men extended a quarter mile, their yellow hardhats bobbing against the gray terrain, the ring of their spike malls, the clang of their shovels quickly swallowed up by an endless flatland of dust, sagebrush, and rattlesnakes.

    I’d been given an anchor bar—iron, an inch thick, five feet long, easily fifty pounds. When properly put to task, it curled up under the rail and with a click secured an anchor tight against the tie. With each new click, I swear, it gained another pound.

    “Ever do a virgin?”

    “What?”

    “Everything they say is true, like doing it with a vise grip, only softer”—then the laugh, the guttural, Dracula laugh that I would come to know so well by summer’s end.

    This was Lenny. Tall, Nordic Prussian, green eyes, blond, Romeo of the Railroad. He was from some little town in Idaho, but that was all I knew. Like most of the others, when it came to the past, you couldn’t wrench a word out of them.

    Snap!

    “No, dumb shit. Hold it this way, then muscle into it.” Click. Click. Click. Smooth as a pirouette.

    Snap!

    “Jesus. Where do they find you guys?” He showed me again, but the bar had become so heavy I could barely lift it into position much less produce the desired click.

    For the next three hours, we worked on, Lenny clicking away, me hauling my bar from tie to tie, the thought of finishing out the day becoming unbearable.

    At 9:30, the call came from up the tracks—“Break! Brreakkk”—and a hundred guys dropped their tools and headed for the water cart. Time for a cigarette, a cup of mud (only the new guys like me fretted about picking out the little green bugs), and a quick review of last night’s brawls, boozings, and beddings. (The detailed account would come at lunch.)
    “You make it last night?”

    “What do you think?”

    “C’mon.”

    “Ask the Spic. He held her down. Hey Spic! Show ’em where she bit ya.” The stocky Hispanic raised his forearm to a round of raucous applause.

    I failed to see the humor.

    That night, I hitched a ride into town to call my father, but when the operator asked if he’d accept the charges, he declined and we were disconnected. Figuring there’d been a mix-up on the line, I tried again, but still his answer was no. I changed a five into quarters, made a paid call and there he was, simple and direct as always:

    “Your call. You pay.”

    “But—I’m at a pay booth. In Gillette. I didn’t think you’d mind if I—”

    “So how was your first day?”

    “Terrible. The work’s a killer, just like you said it’d be, and this place—nothing but flat and ugly as far as you can see. I swear, if the moon could grow sagebrush, it’d be Wyoming.”

    “You’ll get used to it.” He sounded amused.

    “Thanks. I’ll remember that next time you’re stranded on the moon. Man, was this a mistake coming out here to this god-awful job. I don’t know what I was thinking.” Then, with a desperate laugh, “Get me outta here!”

    Silence.

    I pressed ahead, cautiously, first suggesting, then coming right out and asking to come home, but at each new turn, a brick wall. I recounted the exchange at break, certain it would have some shock value for him, but nothing.

    He listened, courteously, yet unmoved and strangely preoccupied, as though he was working one of his coveted crossword puzzles in the comfort of our sunroom. I could almost see him eased back on his Stratolounger, a splash of Chivas at his side, his gold pen lettering in a word or two as I popped another couple of quarters into the phone.

    “You still there?”

    “Yes.”

    “I figure I need about two hundred bucks to get back.”

    “What about your college loans? I thought you wanted to graduate debt-free. Wasn’t that the point of all of this? That you couldn’t make nearly this much money with any other job. Isn’t that what you said?”

    “Yeah, but—”

    “Isn’t that why you took this ‘god-awful’ job?”

    “Yeah, but—”

    “Stick to your plan.”

    “But I could still pay off—”

    “Listen to me. You need to do us both a favor, okay?”

    “What?”

    “You need to start honoring your commitments, especially the ones you make to yourself.”

    “I know that, I really do, but this is different, this is—”

    “And you have to quit running from life’s little challenges.”

    “Hey, man, this is no little challenge. If you could see this place, these people. I could be killed out here, and for what? To pay off a few college loans before I graduate?” Surely there was something he could arrange for me back home.

    And then the shocker. “You’d do well to stop thinking of this as your home.” He wasn’t mean about it, or the least bit distant, just matter-of-fact. Then, almost cordially, “Uncle Henry’ll be here next week from San Diego. Maybe you could call Sunday when the rates are low. I’m sure he’d like to visit with you. Have a good week.”

    Dial tone.

    Dial tone? I had felt certain that I would spend this night in the comfort of a motel, that in the morning, a ticket would be waiting for me to return to the lush summer in Minneapolis, with its many lakes encircled by bathing beauties.

    Instead, dial tone, my own father leaving me to face the dusty streets of Gillette, Wyoming, and a nine-mile trek over a gravel road to a string of boxcars, revamped as sleeping quarters, on a side rail in the middle of nowhere.

    I pulled an army blanket over my head—inadequate to shield me from the cold night air—and swore never to speak to the bastard again.

    Next morning, I was teamed with Fitzman, a spiker—short, brawny, with mean eyes. He bummed me a cigarette.

    “Thanks. Got a match?”

    “Yeah,” he scoffed. “Your breath and a buffalo fart.” He tossed me his matches, but that was it. Not another word the rest of the morning. At lunch, Lenny answered all my questions about Fitzman with a simple statement:

    “He hates you.”

    “Why?”

    Then came that laugh of his and, yelling across the crowd, “Hey, Fitz! The new guy wants to know why you hate ’im.”

    The gang busted up as Fitzman looked our way and smiled his sick, intimidating smile. Back on the tracks, he told me he’d killed someone, someone just like me.

    “You kidding?”

    He stared right through me.

    “Why?”

    “He was wearing one of those green sweaters. Wimp green, with an alligator on it, and I just hate those fucking sweaters with those alligators on ’em and the fucking cocksuckers who wear ’em!”

    He held his point for an instant, then laughed in my face.

    “How many of those sweaters do you own?” he asked, his gray eyes growing psychotic. “Well? How many?”

    “Eight dozen.”

    He raised his spike mall.

    “Three dozen yellow, a dozen pink, and four dozen wimp green.”

    For a moment, I thought I was dead. Then the glare in his eyes softened.

    “Not bad, Alligator. I might not have to off ya after all.”

    I asked about Fitzman at dinner, whether he’d really killed anyone, but the guys just smirked and shook their heads as if I were too naive to be alive.

    After dinner, I set out for town, figuring my father’d have to listen to me now, if he’d believe me at all. I was approaching a curve in the road, thinking how he wouldn’t want his only son working with a fugitive murderer, how I could appeal to his sense of family; then, suddenly, my confidence shrank.

    There, lying ahead in the rocks and dust, were several long, narrow sticks. “Rule is,” Lenny had told me, “if it looks like a stick, it’s a snake, cuz there ain’t no trees that big out here to make a stick long enough to be a snake.”

    There they lay, soaking up the last rays of sunlight. Bull snakes. Harmless. A handful of gravel and they sprang to life, slithering over each other with a frenetic whisss into the grass. I took a step forward, but thought, Suppose they come back, come back when you’re right up there beside them?

    Sure enough, a couple had already slipped out of the grass. And now, a few more. I reached for another handful of gravel.

    Suppose they get pissed? Turn on you? Start squirming down the road after you?

    But—snakes don’t chase people.

    Says who?

    Says … Besides, they’re bull snakes. Harmless.

    Harmless, hell! A snake’s a snake!

    I froze. Then—and I know this sounds crazy, and I knew it was crazy at the time—I tore out of there like a kid running up the stairs in the middle of the night with the biggest, scariest bogeyman fast on his heels.

    I’d never felt so thoroughly ashamed, diminished, and defeated. I stared into the vast, desolate twilight and began a letter to my father:

    “This may mean you never let me live in ‘your home’ again, but it’s time I got some things off my chest.

    “Ever since high school, you’ve been riding me, always on my back, a little harder every year. It’s like you resent me for being alive. And the way you are around mother and the girls, all sweetness and light, so happy to see them, gave Sherry a free ride through nursing school and popping for Martie’s wedding next year. But me, I have to pay for every cent of every shitty little thing I do and even some stuff I don’t do, like that time you handed me the water bill and said it was time I started learning how much it costs to run a household. What is that? None of the other dads do crap like that. And even after I paid the damn $14.63, you still, still look at me all disappointed, like I’m some three-foot putt you just missed on the goddamned golf course!

    “Well, listen up, you mean old son of a bitch. You’re not the only one who’s disappointed.”

    Sons stand up to their fathers in many ways. Some have that one great argument that breaks into a fist fight. Some wage cold war right to the end. Some get higher-paying jobs.
    Me, I did it with a letter. Paragraph after paragraph, heaping every contemptuous thought I had harbored since childhood, and even coming up with a few I hadn’t just for good measure.

    More than a bitch list, it was a relentless diatribe that sought to hurt him to the core, and concluded with the declaration: “Your whole life, all sixty-three years of it, adds up to nothing but one big piece of shit.”

    I felt relieved, if a little anxious, but then there was nothing to do. The foreman would mail it from town that night and before the week was out, my father would have a taste of his own medicine.

    The wind kicked up as it can only in eastern Wyoming. The work, the crew, the snakes, the wind, the vicious letter to my erstwhile friend … it was all too much to take. I lay still in my bunk, lonely and afraid that I would never get out of this terrible, terrible place.

    Those first two weeks, everything ached: arms, legs, back, even fingers. Each day began with a gutful of the grease they called breakfast and ended with the delusion that tomorrow would bring a plan of escape.

    I declined Lenny’s nightly offers to tear up the town, preferring instead to turn in early, physically drained and emotionally weak, although I’d never admit it. Mostly, though, it was just exhaustion. This was not work. It was hard labor, chain-gang-style, complete with ex-cons, illegal aliens, and straw bosses everywhere, crowned with white hardhats in contrast to our yellow.

    Spikin’: Me, Fitzman, Lenny, and a guy named Eric who’d been transferred down the rails to us for mixin’ it up with the steel gang. The tracks of a woman’s fingernails ran from his brow to the stubble on his chin—battle scars, he told us, of a successful conquest the night before.

    Fitzman laughed. He liked Eric’s take-what- you-want approach, while Lenny preferred the more subtle strategy of his “Fifth Night Advent.”

    “First night, you don’t even kiss her. Don’t even try. Instead you pretend to listen to all that crap they talk about, then end the night with your sweetest little-boy face, saying, ‘This has been one of the most special evenings of my life.’

    “Second night, you let her touch you—and they always do the second night—but instead of grabbing her, you make your voice as sappy as you can: ‘When you touch my arm like that, you touch my heart,’ then just kick back, and let her keep touchin’ you.

    “Third night, you kiss her. You’ll know she’s ready by that stupid look they all get on their face, then give her a peck, mouth closed, very tender like you’re tasting a Dairy Queen that you want to make last the whole day. She’s gonna look surprised at first, but later, maybe ten minutes, maybe half an hour, she makes that stupid face again, and you take another taste of the curlicue.

    “Fourth night, you do it, but all in slow motion, little steps that last five minutes, maybe more.”

    Fitzman was fidgety; Eric picked up a spike and looked like he was going back to work; I’m Catholic, and I stood there disgusted, all ears.

    “You start by just playing with her hair a little, and touching your lips against her cheek—not kissing, just touching—in little circles up to her eyes then over to her ears. If she’s a virgin, she’ll love it, and if she’s not, she’ll go wild. Before you know it, you’re home, Jerome.”

    “Suppose she tries to stop you?”

    “That’s when you play your ace, Alligator.”

    “What ace?”

    “You look at her with a little surprise and a little hurt and a little whimper, ‘Don’t you know I love you?’ ”

    “Fuuuu-cckk,” Fitzman scoffed, going back to work. “At that rate, you probably don’t get laid twice in a lifetime.”

    “Never fails,” Lenny said, his green eyes dreamlike. “Yep. The old Fifth Night Advent,” he mused.

    “What happens the fifth night?”

    “You tell her to fuck off,” and Fitzman and Eric busted up.

    “Hey . . . what’re you girls doing back there?” one of the straw bosses yelled.

    “Just teachin’ Alligator how to drive them spikes home, boss, how to drive them spikes home.”

    I decided to go home, not home-home, but back to Minneapolis. I arrived at the decision a couple of weeks later in the dinner car where we sat, fifty guys on either side of a dozen picnic tables, and ate something the cook proudly referred to as “corn steak.”

    It was nothing, really. Not the wind burn on my face, not the creosote in my pores, not the handfuls of salt tablets that rotted away at my gut, not even the bright-red ranch dressing that now dribbled from Eric’s chin as he sat across from me, mumbling something with his mouth full of the slop they called food.

    And yet it was everything.

    Maybe I wouldn’t finish college, maybe I would. All I knew was I couldn’t take another day with Sled Gang #2. So without telling anyone, I took only the things I needed, not even a second set of clothes, and headed for town.

    Whatever happens, you’ll come out all right. Hell, you’ve been through tougher than this … or have you? Just don’t forget to look out for the—Snakes!

    Maybe you can go around through the grass, but wait!—isn’t that where the rattlers are?

    “Damn snakes. Get out of here.” I threw fistful after fistful of gravel, until the whole entangled mess tumbled off into the ditch.

    You just gotta keep throwing that gravel, Alligator, just gotta keep throwin’ it, just gotta keep throwin’ it!

    But as I did, I could feel those snakes filling in behind me, ahead of me, their numbers multiplying, a few even daring to rear their heads from right there beside me in the dwindling twilight.

    They’re coming closer, crisscrossing, reeling, hissing: listen!

    I swear they were closing in, certain I wasn’t imagining it, encircled, trapped, heart pulsing, no way to fend them off, my body too rigid to stoop for more gravel, the gray strands taunting, squirming toward my boots, every one of them winding, twisting, thrashing in the frenzy.

    Then gone. Like that! Scattered. All of them. Back into the grass.

    Lenny laughed the loudest, though Fitzman and Eric ran a close second. Lenny slammed the car door and walked over to me.

    “Alligator, look at you, you’re shakin’ like a leaf. What happened?”

    “Shit, he’s scared to fuckin’ death. Alligator, them’re bull snakes. They don’t bite. C’mon, get in the car. You need a drink.”

    The Gaslight was the antithesis of everything its name implied. Walls covered with cowboy bric-a-brac, linoleum floors, blond paneling, Formica tables, the stale stench of spilled beer hitting hard as we walked into the place, four conspicuous railroaders in an obvious ranchers’ watering hole.

    “The usual,” Eric said with a smile as the waitress, looking a little worried, nodded and walked off.

    “What’s the usual?”

    “What do you care, Alligator?” He wasn’t looking for an answer.

    A bottle of Wild Turkey, four glasses, popcorn. Two drinks later, and somebody yelled a toast to us from across the room: “To the faggot gandy dancers,” to which Fitzman raised his own glass: “To the skanky whores the ranchers call their women.”

    That did it. A hard woman, one who’d seen more than a few mornings face down in the dirt of the corral, got up, headed in our direction, and thinking I’d said it, slugged me square in the mouth—bam!—and I’m down on the floor sure as I just wised off to my paternal grandmother.

    Incredibly, Fitzman decked her, knocking her cold. Then, like someone called a cue, the place burst into upheaval, chairs and tables flying, bottles and glasses missiling through the air, guys gruntin’ and wailin’ and bleedin’ and spittin’ and me, a dumb, scared-to-death college kid right in the middle of an honest to Jesus barroom brawl.

    On my hands and knees, I was making for the door when I heard Lenny yell—“Alligator”—and I knew I had no choice but to get into it.

    The first guy I caught totally off guard, hitting him so hard I nearly threw my shoulder out. A second punch and he was finished. As the fight went on, I became aware of the strength I had gained in my arms and shoulders and back. Big guys, 6 ‘ 4″ and 210 pounds, were throwing their best shots at me, and although their punches were like bricks in my face, mine must have been like freight trains in theirs. Same for Lenny and Eric and Fitzman. They just kept coming and we just kept taking them on.

    I’d be lying if I said it wasn’t fun. It was goddamned exhilarating! Before, I’d always been the sissy getting beat up on the way home from school. All of a sudden I was a tough guy, ruthless, busting heads in a dingy saloon in the Wild West, just as God intended!

    We did the town that night, the four of us, hitting every bar on the strip, our bludgeoned faces, bloodied shirts, and puffed-up lips like battle scars and challenges to anyone who dared mess with us. No one did.

    “Hey,” Eric laughed, “you see Alligator flat-fuck fall when that cowboy kicked him?”

    “Yeah, but he got up again,” said Fitzman in my defense.

    “Sure, he got up. Spread that bastard’s nose clear across his face. Oooo. Then all that fucking blood! I never woulda believed it.”

    “Here’s to you, Alligator, you faggot,” and all at once, they’re holding their glasses up to me, they’re toasting Me!

    For the next two months, the four of us were invincible. Nobody crossed us, not even the straw bosses. Hell, we were the Defenders of the Railroad.

    We worked the hardest part of the gang, the tail end, spikin’ and anchorin’, daring the 110-degree days to drop us sure as they would half a dozen guys before the whistle blew. This was home, I decided. The harsh terrain, the ungodly work, the searing heat reflecting off the ballast onto our blistered lips, the grit in our teeth, the sweat rolling off our noses—all of it bearable precisely because it was so unbearable.

    Muscles bulged, backs bowed, lungs filled with the aroma of creosote and manhood.

    August was full of noises, sharp and piercing, made louder by the sudden stillness of the wind. The shrill of the killdeer, the crack and crunch of ballast beneath our boots, the whine of the locust, the screech and grind of heavy machinery, the hiss and flutter of the snakes just yards away, restless and shedding their skins in anticipation of winter, and everywhere, the rrringgg of spike malls falling hard, and all the more piercing on hungover ears.

    I was showing some new guy how to spike the day it happened. Lenny, who’d been working his Fifth Night Advent on last year’s homecoming queen—“a real looker,” he assured us, “and best of all, a virgin”—dragged himself up to the tracks, still half-drunk, looking like shit with a smile.

    “It worked,” he said, and we all busted up. The details, as always, would come at lunch. But lunch never came for Lenny.

    Instead, a dusty red pickup came. It roared off the road, right through the snakes and sagebrush, then ground to a stop a few feet from the railbed. The face of the little man who got out was so flushed with anger and rage that it looked like he’d dipped his head in a blueberry pie.

    Lenny played it smart, letting the guy plant one right on his lip, then fell back onto the ties.

    “You ever so much as look at my little girl again, and I’ll kill you.”

    I stood there, deeply saddened, slowly growing conscious of the fact that there was nothing funny, never had been, about Lenny’s little schemes.

    Before the guy was even back in his truck, Straw Boss #1 was coming down the line, his belly barely able to keep pace with his fat little legs.

    “Outta here,” he was yelling and pointing at Lenny. “You! Outta here! Now!”

    But next day, there was Lenny, packing a letter from the union attorney, back on the tracks, cocky as ever.

    It was hard for me to make conversation with him that day, but I felt obliged. Aside from my contempt, there was gratitude. He had, after all, been a mentor of sorts. And there was a kind of nostalgia, too, as though something I had been clinging to was finally slipping away and in its wake there’s a lukewarm chill that comes when you suspect your life is changing, changing again.

    A day or two passed and I still felt the same. I hadn’t talked much to Lenny or to any of the guys for that matter. I didn’t feel like a Defender of the Railroad anymore, but I didn’t feel like a dumb college kid, either. My whole life to that point seemed to have been made up of a series of random events that happened around me, to me, when all along I could have changed them somehow, worked things to my advantage if I had only tried.

    I was turning this over in my head, feeling it gnaw at my gut, when I noticed Fitzman slacking off—the only sure way to get canned on the railroad.

    “Hey, Fitz, what’re ya doin’?” I said. “Get to work, girl.” But he just leaned back on one leg, rested his spike mall on his shoulder and stared up the tracks.

    A gray sedan, very official looking, had left the road and was rolling slowly toward the head of the line. It disappeared into its own trailing dust, then a minute later, Straw Boss #1 and these two suits came through the cloud and were heading our way. I figured they were brass come to haul Lenny off, but Fitzman knew better.

    “What?” someone said. “Who are those guys?”

    He didn’t blink an eye.

    “Richard Fitzman? You’re under arrest for the murder of John Shane. You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say …”

    Our mouths dropped open. Everyone’s. Even Straw Boss #1’s.

    Fitzman had actually done it. He wasn’t lying. All those times we teased him, taunted him, turned our backs on him as that crazy glaze veiled his eyes and he trained his spike mall on us—Jesus, he’d done it!

    I don’t remember the FBI cuffing him or what anybody said or what we worked on that afternoon or even if we worked at all. All I remember was straining to see the license plate of that gray sedan, trying to make out the letters and numbers as though by knowing them I could somehow bring Fitzman back and undo some past action that I couldn’t begin to fathom.

    Dinner was quiet that night. No threats. No lies. No bold proposals to trash some new saloon. Just the clink of army-issue forks and knives on army-issue plates and saucers, just the smack and chomp of a bunch of gandy dancers sloppin’ it down.

    I took a bottle up the track a ways and sat on the rails. Way off in the distance, a diesel chugged, a horn blared, and I got to thinking how things sometimes happen for no good reason you can figure, how life just rolls on and on, like that coal train out there moving into the cool, silent night. And there goes Fitzman, like he’s waving from the caboose, the only guy who’d ever given me a nickname I actually grew to like.

    Last week of August, we got word that the stretch was finished. Day after tomorrow, we’d be laid off. The news had no effect on me. I wasn’t happy or sad or anything. For me it was just another day on the railroad except for the little surprise waiting for me on my bunk: a letter from my father. No apologies. No query as to my well-being. Not even a mention of the philippic I’d written a hundred years ago. Just news of the family and the old neighborhood. It was signed, simply: The Mean Old Son of a Bitch.

    I read it again and again, noticing finally that it was dated nearly two months before the postmark. I never asked why. Didn’t need to. I just stuffed it in my back pocket that last day as I gathered up my gear, said good-bye to Lenny and Eric and the guys, and headed down that gravel road for the final time.

    Those snakes, I didn’t even see ’em. If you just keep moving, steady as she goes, they don’t bother you. Hell, they don’t even know you’re passing through.

    That night, on the step deck of the last car, in the open air, rolling over the very track I’d given my tears and toil to, I felt a deep and lasting sense of accomplishment. No concerns about how hard my last semester might be, where I would find a job, whether I could pay a water bill or even how much a water bill was. Only the glide over the ribbon rail, the vastness of the sunset, and the roar of the ride.

    Fancy fiction? The January issue will feature additional works of fiction from fabulous writers. Pick up an issue beginning Tuesday, December 26.

  • The Sparkle Force

    Made-in-Minnesota fashion has been getting a lot of attention lately, but it’s local jewelry designs that have impressed us most with their beauty and breadth. (Note: We’re thinking beyond the surfeit of reindeer-shaped pendants and other novelties peddled on the craft-fair and church-bazaar circuits.) While area boutiques like Bluebird, Karma, and Ivy have imported clothing lines previously unavailable here, it’s telling that they also carry an array of locally made earrings, bracelets, necklaces, and rings—pieces that are as sophisticated and edgy as anything in high-profile fashion magazines. When it comes to homegrown jewelry, two notable names to look for are Anne Waddell, whose leaf bracelet fashioned from hammered sterling is pictured here, and the Farahbean label.

  • A Shopper’s Nordic Trek

    Any foray into local Scandinavian style—as purveyed by a number of area emporiums, boutiques, and gift shops—rightly begins at Ingebretsen’s. This stalwart Lake Street retailer offers Scandinavian wares in their most basic forms: wool cardigans with pewter clasps, traditional Norwegian hardanger doily cloths and embroidery, and countless varieties of the painted wooden Dala horse. For Minnesotans—especially those who grew up in small towns like Lindstrom (aka “Little Sweden”) or Norwegian Northfield—there’s a certain familiarity in the way the gray-haired shopgirls at Ingebretsen’s tidy up after their guests. Presiding over a stock of Vikings miniatures and recordings by Finland’s Lahti Symphony, they keep the store’s displays looking bountiful but orderly, just as we northerly types like it. At the far end of the store, just in time to fatten up for the season, the shopper finds a spread of Firkløver chocolates, gingerbread cookies, and lutefisk. And there’s more to marvel at behind the meat counter: blood sausage, pickled herring, sardines.

    As handy as Ingebretsen’s may be for those in need of Icelandic Christmas cards, it has not, in recent years, been quite what we had in mind for certain style-conscious folks on our shopping lists who might appreciate something “Scandinavian.” From the 1950s on, most people have taken the adjective to describe stunning-yet-simple designs for furniture and housewares. Modern Scandinavian design evolved amid the new, and rather liberal, brand of social democracy—not unlike Minnesota’s own—in Northern Europe following World War II. The result of tinkering with an array of newly developed and inexpensive materials—such as plastics, pressed wood, and enameled aluminum—the new domestic goods were touted as efficient in both function and production. Scandinavians regarded them as tools for bettering their standard of living.

    Steeped as they are in Scandinavian heritage, the Twin Cities have long been dotted with a great many retailers offering merchandise from that part of the world. Many of them cater to loft dwellers in search of what’s new and hot in home design—which oftentimes turns out to be classics dating back to the much-heralded arrival of Scandinavian design stateside some fifty years ago. For example, goods made from the bright, graphic fabrics produced by Marimekko—with quirky names such as Kivet, Korsi, and Unikko—have been a constant (and recently reinvigorated) presence at just about every store purporting to be Scandinavian. Saga Living, on Grand Avenue in St. Paul, boasts the most expansive Marimekko collection in these parts. Another mainstay, the Aalto vase—a wavy-shaped piece unveiled in 1936 by Finnish designer Alvar Aalto (above)—today is manufactured by Iittala, the renowned glassware company of the same national origin. Scandia, a furniture store on Washington Avenue (not far from the Metrodome), carries a reissue of Danish designer Poul Henningsen’s famous “brain lamp.” And Danish Teak Classics, housed in a Northeast Minneapolis warehouse space, is a trove of mid-century furniture designs from familiar names like Hans Wegner and Borge Mogensen as well as unknowns; its parallelogram-shaped coffee table would serve as the perfect centerpiece for any minimalist living room—though its price would deplete this admirer’s savings account twice.

    While these purveyors of modern and contemporary Scandinavian design don’t go in for Dala-horse doorstops or braided wool sweaters, they do have a soft spot for the moose—a creature indigenous to the Scandinavian folk arts. Finnstyle—a sleek, sparsely appointed store in downtown Minneapolis—offers moose-shaped napkin rings skillfully carved from individual wood discs and, for those who entertain more casually, paper napkins bearing a minimal but friendly-looking moose profile. Another popular item at several Scandinavian boutiques is a moose-shaped keychain made from cork, while at Nordic Home, a store with outlets in Edina and Minneapolis’ warehouse district, the moose silhouette adorns rugs and fleece blankets that are draped across birchwood-framed sofas and easy chairs. Ingebretsen’s, too, has some moose-themed items. But there’s some indication the venerable retailer is forging ahead—into porcupine territory, with a stack of polymer coasters.

    No survey of Scandinavian style is complete without a visit to Ikea, the Swedish-born behemoth famous for its cheaper-than-imaginable designs in pressed wood and plastic. Here, as at the boutiques, the merchandise is often artfully displayed and the designers prominently credited, even on the tag for a $5.99 knotted rug. A closer look reveals the extent to which many of the store’s young designers borrow liberally from their mid-century Scandinavian forebears; for instance, the $69.99 Knappa Klöver floor lamp has, at first glance, an uncanny resemblance to Henningsen’s iconic brain lamp. In fact, if the shopper of modest means unburdens herself of snobbery—and the burning desire for a reissued Arne Jacobsen chair—she will realize that cut-rate Ikea, in its way, carries on the tradition of those venerable designers. Such reasoning also serves to make a two-hundred-dollar Ikea coffee table seem a much more attractive purchase.

  • Life on the Mississippi

    When Phil Harder has a hankering to check out a band at 7th Street Entry, he doesn’t have to hop in his car and drive downtown from his home on Marshall Street, just north of Broadway. In Harder’s neighborhood—a lovely admixture of industrial scrap yards, hip galleries, and such hangouts as the Sample Room and the 331 Club—it’s not uncommon for him to step out his back door and descend a treacherous flight of homemade stairs to the muddy banks of the Mississippi River. There, at a dock he shares with neighbors, Harder climbs into his salmon-colored, eighteen-foot Shell Lake Cuddy Cabin vintage motorboat. He can cruise into the city for a rock show, or, if the mood strikes, take a leisurely trip to shoot some footage for a music video or movie—or just sit and watch as houseboats, canoes, and ore barges drift on by.

    Harder is a purveyor of fine music videos (for Prince, Low, and Foo Fighters, to name but a few), a soon-to-be feature filmmaker, and one of the few riverfront property owners in all of Minneapolis. Much like a character in Huckleberry Finn, he leads a life that seems to be an extension of the fabled river.

    Harder and his wife, Isabelle, discovered their house in 1997 while gazing at a satellite image of Minneapolis during a visit to the old Science Museum in St. Paul. Both of them grew up on rivers—Phil fished and made rafts on Wisconsin’s Black River while Isabelle pondered the international barges rumbling down the Nieuwe Maas in the Netherlands—and their eyes naturally wandered down the meandering black strip on the map that was the Mississippi. They were shocked to find, bunched in a group in Northeast, riverfront properties in the city.

    Within a year, they had purchased a duplex that Harder describes as a “typical 1891 working-man’s home.” The two-story, white clapboard farmhouse, with a backyard that drops swiftly into the Mississippi, is one of only eight or so homes in Minneapolis perched directly on the river. Once a cheap rental, the building has been restored by the Harders so that the front looks no different from fifty years ago while the back features a boxy, stained-wood and glass addition that sticks out, allowing a view of the river that hadn’t existed before. Both the add-on and the home’s interior were created with an amalgam of found materials. Inside are tangerine- and lemon-colored kitchen cabinets (a discovery from Bauer Brothers Salvage), which look like something from A Clockwork Orange and border a living room where the original beveled-glass doors and woodwork mix with futuristic chairs scored from the University of Minnesota ReUse Center.

    Much of the footage in Harder’s videos and short movies utilize “found” locations around the river. Harder’s especially fond of his short film, Mr. Mississippi, in which he plays a rube in a vintage Shell Lake boat who picks up a blind, tuxedoed hitchhiker and trucks him downriver. Over the years, Harder has become a connoisseur of river culture and can enlighten any guest on the history of certain piles of nondescript rock offshore (old platforms for loggers to direct their wares into the current, and the spot from which the blind hitchhiker hitched). He enjoys the industrial sounds of the Caterpillar machines, grinding their engines and dumping metal, that emanate from the scrap yard across the river. “We were looking for a little country in the city,” Harder said, while descending the riverbank stairs to the rickety dock he built with lumber foraged from a variety of sources. With this place, they certainly seem to have found their Eden.

  • A Kind of Hush

    Sarah Lemanczyk, photo by Karl Herber / karlherber.com

    Looking up at the St. Paul Central Library’s four stories of pink Tennessee marble makes you feel small. The Italian Renaissance building, its façade decorated in classical columns and pilasters, looks as though it belongs in a city of grander scale. And indeed, it’s a remnant of a time when St. Paul was more connected to the East Coast—a time when local developers still looked east for inspiration. (Central Library got its spark from New York architect Electus Litchfield.) The interior walls and stairs are wrapped in gray Mankato stone and marble. The chandeliers are gilded and ubiquitous. There is an almost medieval feeling of privilege in being allowed to walk these halls, especially if the object of your desires is not astronomical secrets printed on musty scrolls, but rather, the Trading Places DVD.

    Central Library opened its doors in 1917, funded mostly by selling city bonds. In 2000, those doors, along with the rest of the library, received a two-year, $15.9 million renovation. It was the first major restoration in the library’s history; it improved access to the stacks and added more computers while still, somehow, preserving the building’s old-world charms. These days, libraries are generally built to be bright, efficient spaces. And then there’s the Central library.

    After passing through a hive of library-related activity—checkout, return, security cameras—the atmosphere becomes hushed, the lights dimmed. Wide stone staircases endlessly curve upward. (You can hear your footsteps.) Chandeliers provide the only light. The aura is rich; the environs silent—quite a feat, considering the building is over 90,000 square feet and holds over a quarter million books.

    One of the only outright deviations to the library’s aesthetic is the wide-open children’s section on the first floor. It’s divided into two sections: one with plush, circular sofas for lounging teens; the other with a mass of carpeted space in which kids can run, jump, and shout about their love of reading. Other nods to modernity are the wide, navigable mezzanine stacks and islands of Internet-enabled computers. At any given time, most of the desks that house these machines will be occupied—havens for the older, the ambitious, and the asleep.

    Attached to the public library is the James J. Hill Reference Library, which was funded in large part by Gilded Age railroad mogul and philanthropist James J. Hill. Though it’s technically a separate library, no trip to Central is complete without a pass through the Hill’s reading room, a soaring three-story chamber with floor-to-ceiling books, narrow balconies, winding staircases, and large private tables. Here you’ll find free coffee, a clientele sporting button-downs and sensible heels, and all the back issues of Chemical Market Report you’ll ever need.

    But the real magic is in the building’s public side, the more average side. As you sink into one of the magazine room’s leatherette armchairs with the latest Lonely Planet guide to somewhere warm, a view of Rice Park spreads out before you. The clunky start-and-stop of the copier machine echoes from behind a row of long, dark wooden tables. It’s the kind of place where, beneath the glorious beamed ceilings and angel friezes, an everyday dad wrapped in Sean John fleece sits with his nose in a book while his young son intermittently doodles and stares out the tall arched windows, his feet dangling high above the stone floor.

  • Like Petting a Packaged Ham

    I’m standing at the Dairy Queen on Snelling Avenue in St. Paul, waiting to order a chocolate cone. Ahead of me is the new American nuclear family: two boys, a father, and a mother cooing to a Chihuahua clutched to her chest in a front-loading doggy knapsack. A few weeks later, Us Weekly runs a photograph of Susan Sarandon with a suede bag dangling from the crook of her elbow, a frothy little white dog peering out of it.

    Like cell phones, lattes to go, and iPods, the toy dog has become something of a fashion accessory, not so much walked these days as worn. According to the American Kennel Club, four of the top ten most popular breeds since 2000 have been small ones—Yorkshire terriers, dachshunds, shih tzus, and miniature schnauzers. The most popular dogs of the day are not much bigger than the designer bags in which they are carried. To me, they seem more like the white mice I owned as a child—forever in danger of being crushed or having a nervous breakdown.

    But there is one meaty exception. The toy dog for me, and anyone else who’s grouchy about the trends (dog-related or otherwise), is the pug—the anti-toy-dog toy dog.

    Technically the largest member of the toy-dog category, the pug has the disarming quality of looking simultaneously guilty and repentant. And, unlike my friend’s perpetually quaking toy poodle, pugs are steadfast and substantial; petting one is like petting a packaged ham, and with the largest of the breed weighing in at around eighteen pounds, they are too heavy to carry on your person.

    With their bulging, Peter-Lorre-like eyes and deeply furrowed brows, pugs seem to have a melancholy response to all questions directed at them—whether regarding a red rubber ball or the current state of the world. The Dutch call them mopshond, taken from the word mopperen, which means to grumble. A pug would be the perfect companion to join me when I rent Al Gore’s An Inconvenient Truth on DVD.

    Pim was the first pug I ever met. She lived across the street, and I would watch her taking short, slow walks with her owner. One night, my boyfriend and I stopped to say hello. But Pim seemed to be growling at us, so we backed away. “That means she likes you,” said her owner.

    This made sense to me. I am the sort of person who is routinely told to lighten up, and my own relatives have been known to wonder aloud whether it’s OK to hug me. Despite my ferocious love for family and friends, my desire to be embraced and cherished, there’s something about me that roars when people get close. But if I had a pug at the end of my leash, my way of showing affection might start to make sense. Both the pug and I growl with pleasure.

    At a recent pet store Pug Meetup in Burnsville, where pug owners and potential owners had gathered, a woman asked if I wanted a black or fawn-colored pug. On her lap was Daisy, a fawn—giddy and wheezing from running, her tongue curled up like ribbon candy beneath her nose. I was smitten but uncertain. I didn’t want to be exposed as a pug-loving imposter, especially not here, with a high-spirited herd of twenty circling the room in great bursts of speed. “I’m still trying to decide,” I replied, which was true enough.

    For now, I’ve got a pug reference manual and a mug shot of Pugsy Malone, a canine malcontent made famous by the Internet and greeting cards. His grave expression confirms that I’m in good company for all my worrying about the war, my old car, drowning polar bears, and roaming centipedes.

  • Postcards from Saudi Arabia

    While Sudan and Qatar might be tougher bets, most Americans could spin a globe and pinpoint Saudi Arabia’s deserts with relative ease. Even if your geography fails you, you’ve no doubt at least heard of Saudi and perhaps recall Peter O’Toole shouting across the desert sands in Lawrence of Arabia. The average American might know that the country is the world’s largest oil producer, that it has two coasts—its arid land mass is sandwiched between the Red Sea and the Persian Gulf—and that it is one of America’s allies in the Middle East (this, in spite of the fact that Osama bin Laden was a Saudi national). You might also believe, if you’ve watched certain afternoon talk shows, that women there are imprisoned in their homes and regularly beaten. Or, if you are a Michael Moore fan, that the princes of the Saudi Kingdom have conspired with the Bush family to start wars for oil. If you listen to right-wing radio, you might think that the country is almost entirely populated by people who hate freedom.

    My wife and I have friends in Saudi Arabia. Bob and Reem—he from rural Pennsylvania, she a Saudi national from Jeddah—are a pair of doctors who live in one of the many employee compounds designed to give Westerners a little slice of home in the desert. They have been asking us to visit for too many years, hoping not only to show off their country but to bring a bit of understanding about the place to Americans—any Americans. So recently, my wife and I became unlikely tourists for three weeks in the desert kingdom.

     

    It’s not easy to visit Saudi Arabia. There’s really no such thing as a tourist visa. Westerners go to Saudi because they are working for the government, have business there (usually oil business), or are pilgrims on a Hajj. Upon calling the Saudi embassy in Washington, DC, and inquiring about how to get a visa, I was asked my occupation. But the attaché interrupted before I could say “writer.” “Ah, ah, ah! I don’t want to hear it. Listen . . . get someone to say you’re working for them, and you’re all set.”

    “But I’m not—”

    “Ah, ah, ah! Forget it! Just do like I say, and you’ll be fine.” With that, he hung up.

    Fortunately, Reem’s family has Vitamin Waw, or Wasta, what the Saudis refer to as “connections.” Her uncle agreed to sponsor me as a contractor with his vast refrigeration company. And just like that, we had the necessary documentation. “You’re going to have to lie to airport security?” a neighbor asked. “That’s ballsy.” He had a point. For the remaining weeks before we landed at the Dammam Airport, I cooked up a long story about my work in the refrigeration business, hoping my lie wouldn’t be exposed.