Category: Article

  • Birthday Angel Scratch Mix

    When I was twenty-four, I decided to bake a cake for my boyfriend’s birthday. Matty was a wannabe rock star and the coolest guy I’d ever dated. I really wanted to pull off something cool, something special, something his mother would never have made. The limits of my first apartment kitchen forced my creativity into overdrive. I baked three cakes—chocolate, yellow, and marble—with the only pan I had: a loaf pan. I then inverted these “cake bricks” and stacked them, one on top of the other. Covering the cake wall with orange and brown frosting wasn’t easy, and it ended up leaning a little to the left, so I jammed a chopstick in the middle for support. The final touches involved throwing random tosses of sprinkles at the cake, embedding green plastic army men into the frosting (they were “scaling” the cake), draping candy necklaces around the edges, and spelling out “I Dig You” in those sugary cake-decoration letters. It was an ugly, towering, behemoth. It was a sugar bomb. It was my whole weird heart on a plate.

    But that’s the thing about cake, isn’t it? Any cake, be it torte or gâteau, sheet or layer, red velvet or devil’s food, is a gift. Weddings and birthdays are a given, but the surprise presentation of a cake on a Tuesday, following an average chicken dinner, has the ability to turn the night into something special. That first boyfriend cake, which has come to be known as Crazy Cake 1.0, opened my eyes to the power of this confection. It makes people giddy, it lets them dream: It’s a sweet escape from the ordinary.

    Cakes have been tied to the cycles of human life since ancient times. The Chinese celebrate their harvest with the mid-autumn Moon Festival. In honor of Chang’e, the goddess who lives on the moon, people exchange mooncakes stuffed with sweet or savory fillings. Ancient Celts celebrated spring with Beltane cakes, which were representative of the returning sun. These cakes were not only eaten and enjoyed, but rolled down the hill in a game of fortune-telling: If your cake reached the bottom intact, it was a year of luck for you.

    Traditionally, cakes were reserved for special occasions because their creation required special skills and the finest, most expensive ingredients from the kitchen. The wealthy enjoyed the fantastic and elaborate cakes more often, but people in the average world still found at least one day a year worthy of a humble cake. The birthday cake wasn’t a popular practice until the late 1800s. Mass production made baking ingredients cheaper to buy, and new railroads made them easier to get. Modern advances gave cooks extra time and new conveniences, like innovative leavening agents such as baking soda and baking powder, about the same time that “Happy Birthday to You” was composed.

    And yet, a cake is more than fine ingredients. During leaner years, people learned to make do without high-quality staples. Recipes for butterless, eggless, and/or milkless cakes call for lard, mayonnaise, water, honey, and vinegar as substitutes. These cakes, with names like Depression Cake and War Cake, prove that even in the toughest times, when you need cake, you need cake.

    It wasn’t until after World War II that dear Betty Crocker turned the world of cake upside down. Dry mixes for biscuits, custards, and gelatin had been around for years by the time General Mills debuted its first cake mix in 1947. Oddly enough, the cake mix wasn’t an instant hit. While it was fine to make biscuits in a flash, cooks had a hard time reconciling the speed and ease of a mix with what a cake should be. A cake needed to be a labor of love; the creation itself deserved to be an event. Recognizing this, General Mills retooled its mixes so that it became necessary to break a few eggs into the bowl. That must have been enough of a contribution, because today most cakes made in the home come from a boxed mix.

    As far as I’m concerned, cake mix has its merits. After Crazy Cake 1.0, there have been many new versions. I’ve baked a nine-layer, striped, Cat-in-the-Hat monstrosity, a three-layer sprawling spider (with black frosting), a five-layer pink bachelorette cake (complete with protruding elements). All of them were made from a mix. They’re reliable, they’re consistent, they’re dummy-proof, and people always comment on how moist they are. I usually tell them it’s an old post-war recipe.

    “Scratch” cakes, by contrast, have become my biggest challenge. My initial desire to create amazing structures from cake has led to my desire to create cakes that, in terms of their ingredients, are beautifully structured from the inside out. But while baking from scratch may be more in fashion these days, it hasn’t gotten any easier. Most baking projects are veritable scientific experiments: If one element is out of whack, you get a sunken center or overly dry grain. But I continue to find new cakes to bake. There needn’t always be an event in mind—sometimes just a little lull in everyday excitement is enough for a cake to slip in and remedy things. I am now a woman of dense and buttery poundcake, rich, dark Sacher tortes, light-as-air pavlovas, and moist, tender chiffon cakes. I plow forward because I know that, in the end, even a lopsided cake will be a well-loved gift.

    Wacky Cake II

    A modern version of Depression Cake

    1 1/2 cups sifted flour

    1 cup sugar

    4 tablespoons cocoa powde r

    1 teaspoon baking soda

    1/2 teaspoon salt

    6 tablespoons vegetable oil

    1 tablespoon white vinegar

    1 teaspoon vanilla

    1 cup cold water

    Pre-heat oven to 350. Sift flour, sugar, cocoa, soda, and salt together into an ungreased 8 x 8 inch pan. Dig three wells in the dry ingredients. In the first well, pour oil. In the second, pour vinegar, and in the third, pour vanilla. Pour water over everything and stir to combine, do not beat. Bake 30 minutes, cake should be springy. Eat it warm with no frosting or just a dollop of sweetened mascarpone.

  • Antipodean Sweetener

    One of the unsung pleasures of a summer weekend in an English country house is the short shelf of books left in the spare bedroom for the entertainment of guests. If you are out of luck, the row of volumes on the bedside table consists of Reader’s Digest Condensed Books, Regency bodice-rippers by the likes of Georgette Heyer or, worst of all, copies of the Watchtower.

    A few years ago, every spare bedroom I slept in seemed to boast a copy of Jessica Mitford’s American Way of Death. One could see why one’s kind hosts might not want this gripping volume in a room that they used regularly themselves. It is an entertaining but distinctly macabre exposé of the trade practices of undertakers in the Eisenhower era. Once one has read it, one never forgets the T-shaped layout of the ideal coffin showroom and the methods used to steer mourning relatives toward the most expensive coffins. These, one is told, should be placed in the right-hand arm of the T (because research has shown that wanderers lost in the Antarctic are likely to go round in right-handed circles, like waste water in an antipodean plughole). Some of Miss Mitford’s revelations about embalming are unlikely to induce slumber. I am sure it is all very out of date nowadays. And anyway, she was a Communist.

    But the greatest find I ever had was a thriller by John Buchan called The Courts of the Morning. John Buchan was a prolific producer of literate light literature in the decades before and after the First World War (he died as governor general of Canada in 1941). Critics have considered his heroes literary ancestors of James Bond, but actually the contrasts are more instructive. There’s precious little technology (though it is occasionally handy that Sir Archie Roylance is an early aviator).

    Unlike the sybaritic Bond, Buchan’s Richard Hannay and Sandy Arbuthnot are quietly public-spirited. Though True Love sometimes comes to the surface, there is no sign of Miss Pussy Galore and her bathykolpian avatars; Buchan is the only thriller writer I know to have been an enthusiast for John Bunyan’s Pilgrim’s Progress.

    Perhaps Bunyan also affected Buchan’s genius for evoking landscape. The grand, green hills around Erzerum in Eastern Turkey provide spectacular scenery for the dénouement of Greenmantle, a yarn about Hannay and Sandy Arbuthnot using charm and intelligence to foil an Islamic uprising in the darkest days of the First World War. What stuck in the mind from the weekend I spent with The Courts of the Morning was certainly the landscape where the tale unfolds. The core of the story is a miners’ conspiracy in the province of Gran Secco (Big Thirst).
    Quite how Sandy Arbuthnot got embroiled in it has long evaporated from memory, but the sense of him speeding up and down the west coast of South America, plunging into deep valleys in sight of snow-topped mountains to deploy his diplomatic skills lingers in the mind like a sweet smell.

    I cannot recall what he drank while he was achieving all this. After all, I had to read fast; it would have been tacky to miss meals and tackier still to let the volume find its way into my suitcase (not a temptation for a reader contemplating the grim revelations of Miss Mitford). But there was surely wine to be had. Already in 1933, Viu Manet, nowadays one of the largest wine concerns in South America, was taking advantage of the alternating sea breezes and dry air from the Andes to grow grapes in the temperate vales of Chile.

    Since I first met them in England some thirty years ago, Chilean wines have improved massively. Let me commend to you the Semillon made by Viu Manet, a sweet white wine which can be had in half-bottles hereabouts for around twelve dollars. Sweet, but not too sweet, not Bourbon or embalming fluid, lighter than the great French dessert wines of Sauternes that are made from the same sort of grape. Think of it as last-of-the-summer wine, sipped solitarily on the front porch in early evening sunshine, surrounded by the scent of cut grass (so much more pleasing than the sound of grass being cut). Take it with a plain biscuit (OK, cracker) and the kind of light reading whose heroes impart a vicarious sense of mighty deeds achieved. This Semillon might even soothe you into the unjustified conviction that your summer was not entirely wasted. In Chile it is spring.

  • Respects to 1992

    Fashion fuels itself on the past, spinning out retreads, revivals, and re-interpretations, produced at what seems to be an ever-faster rate. In fact, because of this profusion of styles, you’d have to go back to the early 90s to find evidence of the last really big rally around one particular look. For a few short years, young rockers and their fans took seam-rippers to their jeans, mussed up their hair, and piled on layers of figure-obscuring garments: extra-long-sleeved thermals, unbuttoned flannel shirts, hooded sweatshirts, misshapen cardigans, and, of course, work boots (an aesthetic that, itself, borrowed not a few things from the late 60s).

    Fashion also fuels itself on subcultures: Some of those early 90s grunge fans were clothing designers. The 1992 collection that a young Marc Jacobs designed for Perry Ellis was based on flannel skirts, cashmere thermals, layer upon layer upon layer, even skull caps. This season, not surprisingly, Jacobs is credited for having picked up the speed with which designers rummage through our past; he has spearheaded a “grunge redux” style made up of chunky, knit headdresses and baggy, shirt-tied skirts. For those who like to relate fashion trends to larger influences, the revival seems apropos, given the United States’ wars in the Middle East then and now, as well as its battles with a decidedly lackluster economy.

    The difference today, though, is that, with our fractured culture and always-splintering preferences for music, art, and fashion, there’s little chance tastemakers will converge on any one influence. The mid-1980s continue to be an abundant source of inspiration, judging from all the legwarmers, leggings, and ultra-wide belts. A slow burning of embellishment is also afoot, making way for more austere, minimalist treatments—another echo of what transpired in the early 90s, when tailored dresses and coats took on simple cuts and long, severe lines. As with last year, boots continue to play a central role, alongside plenty of dark and muted colors, a flash of metallics, and piles upon piles of knits.

    To view the fall fashion images, click on the PDF below.

  • Daughter of God

    Sometimes, Grace Kolenda Deters dreams in Portuguese. Ordinary dreams are of her daily life in Nevada, her home five hundred feet above Lake Tahoe, with its shore-to-shore views. Or scenes from past decades spent in Minneapolis: graduate school, therapy, her daughter’s ice-skating lessons, snow.

     

    Less often, she dreams of lilies. Or of the boils that infected her body that first year in Brazil, the deep pits that now remain. Poisonous coral snakes coiled on the outhouse seat, jararaca snakes dangling from the darkness of banana trees. Raw sores on her mother’s skin. Tropical lice. The twelve-inch roundworm—a pale, headless snake that crawled out of her intestine in the night and lay placidly beside her in bed the next morning.

    Graceann Kolenda was five years old when she first disembarked in Rio de Janeiro in 1939. Her father, John Peter Kolenda, was a missionary preacher in the Assemblies of God church—an evangelical denomination based on a literal belief in the Bible, and an acceptance of the Holy Ghost manifesting itself through converts speaking “in tongues.”

    Grace and her husband Bill lived and raised their three daughters in Minneapolis until 1998, when they sold their business and moved to Nevada. Between family and business ties, they still visit the Twin Cities often. When we first met in March to discuss writing her life story, she looked many years younger than seventy-two, despite growing up under the tropical sun. She keeps an incredibly busy schedule in her retirement, traveling often and returning to Brazil every five years or so. She still plays tennis every day, and gambles several times a week in the casinos—an irony that makes her smile.

    Grace wanted to record her story for her children and grandchildren, and for herself—the grown-up version as well as the girl she had once been. By the time of our meeting, she had already spent many months typing her memories and transcribing her parents’ copious letters. The stories that follow—scenes from Grace’s early life, lived under the close watch of a harsh God—are based on interviews, letters, and her extensive historical notes. —J.O.

    My father, John Kolenda, was a missionary preacher of extreme passion. He passionately loved my mother. He passionately loved my sister Dorothy. And he passionately loved me. But most of all, he passionately loved Jesus, and the godly mission to win souls for the Church in Jesus’ name. From my earliest days, I understood that my father’s life work was about serving God as he saw fit—and my job was helping him. It was simple enough, and impossible. But I was determined. So when my father volunteered my services as pallbearer to the locals, I willingly obliged. I would carry babies to their graves.

    The babies I carried lay still in their open caskets, their smooth skin oddly dry in the damp heat. White calla lilies lined the boxes of fresh-hewn pine that dug into the flesh of my fingers. Lily petals grazed the babies’ cheeks, and a floral scent rose thick as bread dough. It was the summer of 1942 in the tiny village of Coqueiros, on the outskirts of the small town of Florianópolis, Brazil. I was seven years old, bearing the weight of life and death in too-close succession. Death dressed in clean white cotton, resting in a bed of flowers. I thought the scent of lilies would press down my throat and choke me.

    Always the funeral processions for the babies wended past my house, with its wide veranda and lush garden, set in front of a banana grove dotted with papaya and avocado trees. Malnourishment was rampant, and I was the tallest, strongest child in our village. It was my job to help carry the casket of every baby who succumbed to the meanness of poverty. It didn’t matter if I knew the baby’s name, if I had ever held her while her heart still beat, or if I had ever even seen her alive. Mostly, I had not.

    My sister Dorothy, six years older, was beyond this task. By thirteen, Brazilian girls were marrying and becoming mothers themselves. Tradition demanded other children carry the casket of an infant. That meant me on one side of the wooden box for the entire three miles to the cemetery, and a rotation of village children on the other side, trading off to rest their aching arms.

    Usually, of the twenty or so children walking the casket, I would recognize two or three. We all dressed for the occasion. I wore my Sunday best, colorful cotton skirts that swished across my suntanned knees as I stepped, and white embroidered blouses. On my dusty feet, I wore tamancos—thin wooden-soled shoes with a leather strap to hold them on.

    There were so many dead babies. Sometimes it was the sugared coffee in their bottles that did it—or coffee mixed, for the lucky ones, with a touch of powdered or canned milk when the privilege of the breast was passed over to a newborn sibling. Other times, parasites chewed the babies up from inside, leaving them hollowed out by diarrhea and dehydration. With no medical care to speak of, baby funerals were as common as rain and salt.

    Just beyond my house, on the first stretch of our journey, was Praia da Saudades, loosely translated from Portuguese as “Lonesome Beach.” In fact, saudades eludes translation. There are a few words in Spanish and English that brush up against it, that hint at the danger of its melancholy, but ultimately, translations fail to convey the gripping despair. Saudades means to miss something or someone, but so much more. It means to be swallowed alive by an unnamed loss, to lose your mind in the pitch black of hope’s destruction, to writhe with the ripping pain of a broken heart.

    You can die from saudades.

    Praia da Saudades was the natural backdrop to the agony of the mothers and fathers, grandparents and siblings who accompanied the tiny caskets. Brazilians do not hold back in their grieving. Their cacophony of sorrow would crash with the waves against the rocks.

    From Praia da Saudades, the dirt road continued uphill, with the ocean on the right, and on the left, the houses of Coqueiros—Spanish adobe style, of a plastered brick, mostly, and some of wood. They butted their modest front doors up against the street. There was no sidewalk. We marched straight down the middle of the one-lane road, so that when a truck rumbled by, we would step aside and wait while we disappeared in a billow of brown dust. I can still taste that dust.

    About one mile from my house, the winding road passed a small Catholic church. There, we would turn left, toward the west, and continue another two miles or so over very hilly terrain, with only a few houses and mostly open fields. Finally, we would arrive at the cemetery, where the fresh-dug grave would gape beneath a cloudless sky. Each member of the funeral procession would toss a shovelful of dirt onto the baby’s coffin.

    No one was embalmed in our neighborhood, so bodies were buried within twenty-four hours of death. Since the cemetery itself was small—only about seventy-five feet long—and deaths were constant, graves had to be re-used every few years. Any shovelful of dirt was apt to include a bone or two from a grave’s previous occupant. At one baby burial, I turned over my rusty shovel to set loose a cascade of dry earth and a full set of human teeth, clenched. And at the far end of the cemetery, a squat, stucco building housed a jumble of anonymous skulls and bones of those who’d rested in peace too briefly before being unearthed.

    Like the babies I buried, I died in Brazil. And I was reshaped from the dirt and the water of a place that seeped into me in the night, through my eyes and nose and mouth, through my pores. Brazil, like my father’s voice, gripped me and made me in its image. I nearly drowned in saudades, but I came up gasping. It eventually released me, but not completely.

    The first time I crawled into bed with Albert Vidmar was at Aunt Martha’s house in Porto Alegre, before my father had established his own mission. Brother Vidmar, a Swiss missionary, had come to visit Mom and Dad for a week, mostly to talk with Dad about taking over Vidmar’s mission territory of Santa Catarina. It was May 1940, and winter was coming. The evening air was already cool.

    It was just past dusk when Brother Vidmar came to me, on the first night of his visit. “Gracie,” he said, “if you come to my room in the morning, I’ll tell you a story.” Even at barely six years old, I knew Brother Vidmar was a handsome man. And he was so much younger-seeming than my parents. With his motorcycle and his dashing mustache, Brother Vidmar was my prince from the moment I saw him. He paid me a lot of attention, too. He lavished me with it in a way that my parents never could. “Well, dearie,” he said, tugging my braid. “Will you come keep me company in the morning?”

    “Yes!” I said.

    “Delightful. I shall expect you, then.” He pressed his face toward mine. I could see the individual hairs of his moustache, gold, brown, a little bit red. He winked, then giggled like a little boy. His eyes crinkled up in the kindest way. I would have died for Brother Vidmar.

    Soon after the weak light of earliest morning washed through my window, I stepped out of bed and crept through the small house. Brother Vidmar’s room was across a short, wide hall from mine. I paused briefly at the end of the hall to examine Aunt Martha’s foot-pedal sewing machine, a black Singer. I pumped the treadle first slowly, then faster and faster. The bandwheel made a pleasing whir as it spun crazily. But I thought it best not to risk waking Aunt Martha, or my parents. Reluctantly, I turned back toward Brother Vidmar’s room and knocked softly on the closed door. It was painted the color of heavy cream, with large chips and scratches around the tarnished brass doorknob plate. Many layers beneath the cream, the paint was blue, like the sky. This color streaked through where the door was most scarred. I knocked again, louder. I heard a stirring behind the door, then Brother Vidmar’s voice. “Come in, I am waiting,” he said.

    I opened the door and stepped across Aunt Martha’s rag rug to Brother Vidmar’s bed. He smelled odd, but good, like something in the shade of the woods. He lifted the faded quilt, with its cut-square pattern of yellows and browns, and beckoned me under it. The bed was musty and warm with the heat of his body. “Do you know about the Indians, Gracie?” he asked, patting my head. “There are savages in the interior, and in the south. Let me tell you a story.” His soft voice was so unlike my father’s clipped, staccato speech. Brother Vidmar’s words were liquid glass, utterly smooth.

    My father found himself quite taken with Brother Vidmar, too. He readily agreed to tour Santa Catarina with Vidmar, and to visit his cottage in the tiny and beautiful village of Coqueiros. My father was impressed with what he saw. Next, my mother accompanied my father on a trip to survey the area, and finally, all four of us, with help from two of Aunt Martha’s sons, made the trek to relocate our family from Porto Alegre to Coqueiros.

    Eventually, Brother Vidmar would venture permanently southward to found new missions in Argentina, leaving his Coqueiros cottage to us as our private family home. In the beginning, though, we all shared the tiny dwelling, which Brother Vidmar had painted entirely white except for the light brown wooden planks of the floor. The windows had bright blue shutters on the outside, but no curtains indoors. The cottage’s best feature by far was Nero, Brother Vidmar’s faithful German Shepherd. When Brother Vidmar traveled—which he did frequently—Nero would predict his master’s homecomings twenty-four hours in advance by howling mournfully toward the horizon.

    Until my father finally built an addition on the cottage, we were limb upon limb there. My parents placed their rubber mattress in the only bedroom. They bought twin beds for Dorothy and me, and arranged them in the room that had been Brother Vidmar’s study. Brother Vidmar slept on the couch, or sometimes, on an army cot in the front entryway. The couch was gray and utilitarian. It did not open into a hide-away bed, but still, it was quite comfortable. The cot, on the other hand, was dreadful.

    I never lay with Brother Vidmar on the gray couch—only on the cot in the front entryway. The couch was in such plain view. I’m sure Brother Vidmar worried about what my parents might see. As it was, we had plenty of company from the lagartixas—small green lizards that climb up and down the walls, especially at night. There were dozens of lagartixas in every room of our house.

    The front entry where Brother Vidmar kept his cot was an unusual space, almost like a small room. It was long and narrow, with one window and two doors. One door opened up to the porch and the outside, and one led into the living area.

    This narrow space was where my father would lock up a schizophrenic young man and attempt to exorcise the boy’s demons. It was where he would one day beat me bloody with a wooden hanger. But that came later. In the beginning, it was the room where I crawled in bed with Brother Vidmar.

    Brother Vidmar traveled constantly, and I missed him when he was away. I loved how, when he was home, he always had a smile and a wink for me, how he made time for me. And I loved his stories. I’d wake up at sunrise and knock on the door to his entryway. He’d let me in, and I’d crawl into his nice warm bed. We’d press our heads together under the thin gray blankets of his cot, and he’d whisper to me of his adventures in Argentina and Uruguay. I’d ride with him along the currents of his warm breath deep into the Amazon, with the crocodiles and the brown-skinned Indians with exotic shards of polished bone stretching the soft flesh of their ears and nostrils.

    Brother Vidmar asked so little of me when weighed against all he gave. I had only to rub his big toe, which was always hurting from an old wound. Brother Vidmar’s toe was not like my father’s, which was bony and calloused with a sprouting of dark hair beneath a thick nail clouded with age. The toe that Brother Vidmar slipped into my palm in the darkness of his cot was completely smooth. It was always warm, and sometimes, damp and slippery. I wondered why this was so, but feared that asking would be rude. Finally, as I rubbed and rubbed one morning, I could no longer resist. “Brother Vidmar,” I said, “why does your toe have no toenail?”

    “Gracie,” he moaned, pulling my hand off his toe and propping himself up on his elbows. A lagartixa scurried up the wall beside us and froze, its lizard legs splayed and clutching. “The day I lost my toenail was a terrible one, child. I’m lucky to be alive. I was in the wilds of Argentina, saving souls for Jesus in the backwaters of the rain forest. A thick billow of steam rose from the water, unlike anything I’d ever seen. That steam was bewitched—it nearly made me insane. Before I knew what was happening, I’d lost control of my canoe, and next thing I knew I was flailing in the river. That’s when I saw the wicked beast, those sulfurous yellow eyes bulging out of the water. Have you ever seen a crocodile, child?”

    “No,” I said, I had not.

    “You should hope you never do. I wish I hadn’t. But I’m strong and fast,” Brother Vidmar continued. “I swam hard and was nearly pulling myself ashore when the croc overtook me. He tore off the tip of my toe with his ugly teeth. Good thing I was near the site of an Indian encampment. The Indians dragged me to their village and wrapped my toe in a poultice with special herbs. Those herbs stopped the bleeding lickety-split, and the next morning, I couldn’t believe my eyes. My toe was completely healed.”

    Brother Vidmar closed his eyes and sucked in a long breath. “Except for the nail. That never grew back. And the ache. Always the ache.” He pulled my hand away from its anxious twisting of my short braid, and guided it back under the blankets. His toe was hot and throbbing now. “It hurts, Gracie. You can’t imagine how it hurts. Keep rubbing, child. Don’t stop rubbing.”

    Near the same time we moved in with Brother Vidmar in Coqueiros, a sixteen-year-old village girl accused him of molesting her. The girl’s younger sister accused him, too. My mother was enraged. “It is inconceivable that such a godly man could have violated those young girls,” she said. Father was apoplectic. “It’s the devil’s work,” he shouted, his voice cracking with fury. “Satan is working through these girls to destroy this wonderful man. We must help him fight back against this atrocity.”

    Despite my parents’ efforts, the authorities were unconvinced of Vidmar’s innocence. He served a short stint in the county jail before being released on probation. Still, he was able to travel freely. And Nero continued to predict his master’s homecomings, to which we both looked forward with great anticipation.

    As a child, I thought of myself as special. I pitied the unbelievers, who didn’t know Jesus as I did. I was proud to be the daughter of a fine minister, so close to God. I felt especially lucky on the July morning when our maid, Vadica, took me to the market in Florianópolis. We rose early to catch the five-thirty bus into town. When we stepped onto the dusty roadside, the air was cool, and there was a slight fog over the ocean. I was nine years old. The sun had barely risen.

    Even this early, Florianópolis was already busy. The market was framed by two red stucco buildings, each the length of a football field. Between them was an expansive corridor, filled with stalls. Inside, vendors peddled meat, bacalhau—or codfish, a Brazilian staple—and shrimp, as well as rich sweet egg breads and toasted manioc. Outside, produce sellers’ carts spilled over with towers of lime, banana, coconut, mango, papaya, pineapple, peppers, potatoes, and corn. Vendors called out over the festive strains of live Brazilian samba.

    I loved the Florianópolis market. It still operates today, nearly unchanged, but I’ve avoided it ever since that July morning when Vadica and I heard the screaming from the far end of the corridor. We were twisting our way through the produce carts to see what was happening when a headless man reeled towards me. Blood spurted from the place where his head had recently been. He jerked blindly like the chickens I killed every Saturday for our Sunday dinners. Behind him, his assailant waved a bloody machete. I watched the dying man stagger for yards and yards—though really it could only have been four or five long steps—before his body crumpled to the ground.

    My throat buckled somewhere near my sternum and the bile from my empty stomach erupted viciously.

    After the market beheading, I could no longer decapitate our chickens with a sharp axe, as I had done before. To see them jump about headless was now too much for me. I searched for a faster, more merciful method of killing. The worst I tried was tying the chickens upside down to a tree branch and struggling, while they swayed and clucked, to twist their necks until they broke. Much better was to tie them to the tree and first pluck a few feathers from their necks. Then, I’d use a very sharp knife to quickly slice through the featherless patch of pale skin. This quieted the chickens in only seconds.

    Not too long after I perfected this technique, my family visited the farm of our Latvian friends, Brother and Sister Karklis. They lived off the land a hundred miles straight west, in Urubici. This village, folded into a spectacular valley about three thousand feet above sea level, was one of the most beautiful places in the sierra of Santa Catarina. The Karklis family grew their own vegetables and grains, and raised chickens, ducks, sheep, cattle, and, for transportation, horses. They spun wool with foot-driven spinning wheels, and wove their own blankets and sweaters. Urubici gets cold in winter, even snowy. So when we stayed there, Sister Karklis would warm our beds with stones she fired on the wood stove, and I would burrow in between two thick feather ticks. In the morning, the woodstove would blaze in the kitchen, and from my bedroom, I’d smell coffee and hot rolls.

    I loved to go milk the cows with Brother Karklis and his son, Wilson. The barn was spotless, but still, there were the layered smells of tangy manure and fresh milk, and the sweet scent of the animals—their skin and sweat, their moist breath. I loved the mooing. I was not afraid, only amazed.

    On this particular trip, after the market beheading, I took special comfort in feeding the newborn lambs whose mothers had been killed. Inevitably, I fell in love with one, and Mother took notice. “John,” she said to my father, “why don’t we let Gracie have a lamb? I would be such a blessing for her to forget the bad experience she had at the market. She is such a dear girl.”

    My father considered. Whenever Dad spoke, he did so clearly and slowly, always authoritatively. He believed every word he said. “Marguerite,” he answered my mother, finally. “I like that idea. Let’s pray about it, and decide tomorrow.”

    The next day, my father announced that the lamb could be my project. I could feed her, care for her, get her fat, and then we’d have fresh lamb to eat. Even Dorothy was enthusiastic.

    We made a small box out of wood to haul my woolly baby on the bus trip back to Coqueiros. I named her Becky, for her beauty and girlishness. She was bright white, with intelligent black eyes. I knew she understood every word I said to her, because she murmured back to me with soft baa-baas. Soon, I could tell if her baa-ing meant she was hungry or just happy. I held her on my lap and bottle-fed her several times a day. I loved to curl the tendrils of her wool around my fingers, to bury my face in her softness. She nearly always stayed beside me. When we walked in the woods together, she’d get covered in burrs and dust. Then I would bathe her and comb my fingers through her wet ringlets.

    By December, Becky was thriving. She was almost seven months old, with a thick coat of wool. It was Brazilian summertime, so Mother decided to shear her. She used the wool for pillows, and was pleased. Meanwhile, though, Becky was becoming a nuisance. Neighbors complained that she was eating their flowers and bushes, spoiling their yards with droppings. She ate our flowers and bushes, too, but I didn’t mind. She was my girl, my best friend.

    My sister Dorothy was six years older, so she and I were never playmates in the way Becky and I were. Dorothy was busy with her own friends and preoccupations. Then there was Mother, who loved me so much and Dorothy so little, for reasons we would only understand years and then decades later, when the secrets of first Dorothy’s adoption and then her paternity by my father’s brother would finally be revealed. But within the shroud of childhood ignorance, such unexplained inequity of motherly love corroded the sisterly bond we might have shared.

    With my Becky, love was easy and uncomplicated as it could never be with my sister, or my parents. If I’d have given my life once for Brother Vidmar, then I’d have given my life ten times for Becky.

    Even so, I wasn’t scared when I first skipped off the bus that day in May and found that Becky wasn’t waiting, as she should have been. She was almost a year old, strong and healthy. Probably she was just on her way. I called for her as I ran down the dirt road toward home. The noontime sun blazed overhead.

    When I reached our cottage, I was sweating hard and my lungs burned from running. I pounded up the stairs and through the front door. Dorothy was in the kitchen, sitting at the table, looking down at her cutting board and smiling with her mouth closed. She was slicing peppers for feijoada, our daily dish of rice and beans.

    “Dorothy,” I panted, “have you seen Becky?” My sister ignored me and continued slicing. Her knife made a smooth frictionless whish as she drew it against the worn board again and again.

    I watched her and thought maybe I should wait until she was finished cutting peppers to ask again. Wait until I could have her full attention, without interruption. But then she spoke suddenly, almost absent-mindedly. “Grace,” she said. “You should look in the refrigerator.”

    I obeyed Dorothy automatically, as always. Our refrigerator was not much taller than I was, and heavy, with two large metal hinges on the right-hand side of the door and a large handle on the left, perfectly level with my chest. I had to pull hard on the handle with both hands, knowing too late what I would see. Mounds of ragged meat, red blood pooling beneath it.

    There was sudden darkness, and a ripping inside. I was screaming from far away, pushing past the open refrigerator door, past Dorothy, into my bedroom, where I stayed for three days and nights. I lay motionless in my bed, waiting to die.

    But I didn’t die. I had to live with the pain, and with the questions it fertilized. Why would my father have slaughtered Becky without even letting me say goodbye?

    I didn’t plan my revenge, but I took it all the same. It was the Sunday after Becky’s death and I knew from the moment I awoke that I would defy my father. When I’d finished with my crime, my father was waiting for me in the entryway. It was God’s will and a biblical imperative for him to beat me, whether he wanted to or not. Beside him stood a baby-doll carriage that belonged to me, and from inside it he pulled a wooden coat hanger. He told me to bare myself and bend over. The beating hurt, and my skin welted and then split open. Blood ran down my legs and mixed with the dust and salt on my feet. I was sorry for the beating, and I was sorry for my father, who didn’t want to do it. But I wasn’t truly sorry for what I’d done.

    I could not be truly sorry. I’d meant to defy him that morning, even if I hadn’t yet known why. When I’d gotten out of bed, the sun was already hot and the water in our bay was still and calm. I knew it was unthinkable for me, the minister’s daughter, to skip Sunday school. The church was right on our own property! All the same, after I ate my breakfast, I went outside and made my way down the rocky cliff to our private beach. The stones there were dark and hot, and they were covered with oysters, my favorite snack. I used a sharp rock to crack them open, oyster after salty oyster, sucking the meat from their shells until my stomach strained with fullness.

    I leaned my head back and stared up at the wide sky. It was not too late to go home. To go to Sunday school. The water lapped over the rocks and covered my bare feet, brown from the sun. It soaked the hem of my dress, cool and inviting. The water was so still, so gentle. How wonderful it would feel to glide across the calm bay in a boat. I began walking down the beach, toward my friend’s house. She was playing outdoors, too. Together, we carefully hauled her father’s boat—a white skiff with green trim and two wooden oars—to the water’s edge. She climbed in first, and I pushed us off. The water was so clear we could see the rocky bottom even dozens of feet from shore.

    We sang Portuguese school songs as we rowed, and splashed each other with our oars. Blue sky pressed against blue water until time collapsed; there was no way to know how long we floated, two ten-year-old girls, happy.

    But as we paddled and then drifted farther and farther from the beach, I heard my mother’s voice, calling for me to turn around. Sunday school was about to begin. I splashed a high arc of water droplets toward a seagull overhead. My friend giggled. Then I heard my father. “Graceann,” he called. “Come back here, right now.” His voice was measured and certain, as always. I could picture him behind me, standing on the jagged rocks above the shore, and behind him, our cottage, the church, what was left of Becky. In front of me, the shimmering waters of our bay rocked gently onward, spilling almost seamlessly into the darkness of the open sea. A rhyme came into my head, something we children often sang to decide who had to be “it” in tag, or to choose which game to play, or the better of two paths. Softly, I sang the rhyme out loud: Là em cima do piano/ Tem um copo de veneno/ Quem bebeu!/ Morreu! On top of the piano/ Is a glass of
    poison/ Who drank it!/ Died!

    “Graceann!” my father yelled, louder now. “Turn around!”

    I slipped my oar into the water and paddled just a little farther toward the horizon.

  • David Rakoff

    Why wasn’t David Rakoff delighted about the prospect of being exiled to a desert island, even a fantasy one? After all, the Canadian-born writer and actor said “OK” when Outside magazine asked him to take “an intense, weeklong wilderness course, where I was trained in primitive skills such as animal tracking, skinning, shelter construction, and the like” (the resulting essay later appeared in his first book, Fraud). Then there was the twenty-day fast, “where one is supposed to just credulously let go and put one’s trust in the lack of food to effect its wonderful magic in releasing toxins and making you feel better than you ever thought possible.” About this experience, he told a story as thought-provoking as it was hilarious on the public-radio program This American Life.

    Rakoff also asserted that “on some level I am the perfect person for a game like this. I am deeply concerned with self-sufficiency, even though I can’t drive. I cut my own hair, I recently made my own jeans, I made all the lamps in my apartment, and my freezer is full of bags of animal carcasses suitable for boiling down into stock as needed.”

    So what was the problem? Thoroughly confusing us, Rakoff finally admitted, “I am terrible at stuff like this”—not at being exiled to a desert island, that is, but at selecting just five things to take along. Probably it’s his intensely inquisitive nature. For example, during his fast, he had so many questions that his “guru, a man who through his own constant spiritual questing was a paragon of inner peace and enlightenment, a man who was by his own admission a personal friend to His Holiness the Dalai Lama, became openly abusive, and I, for one, can hardly blame him.”

    Things began to make sense. If Rakoff seems kind of neurotically self-analytical, not to mention self-contradictory and perhaps a tad self-loathing—well, remember, he is a writer. Also, he lives in New York.

    Then there’s his obsession with time travel. Apparently he ruminates “at least once a day” on how he would have been “just as useless a member of society” five hundred years ago as he is now. “I don’t know how to make a light bulb or an electrical circuit or a pill,” he said. “I wouldn’t even seem smart or modern enough to be burned as a witch. I’m not joking. I really do think about this daily and use it as an excuse to feel bad about myself.”

    That’s when we felt it was necessary to tell Rakoff to buck up. He did so immediately and, in a “penitential spirit,” came up with the following to pack in his desert-island kit bag:

    1. My bowdrill supplies, those wooden implements I carved at wilderness camp, by which I can make fire using nothing more than sticks and some downy vegetable matter like dried grass. (I really can make fire with this. It’s far and away the coolest thing I can do. Children who have seen me do this have never gotten over it.)

    2. A good carbon steel hunting knife.

    3. A whetstone for that knife.

    4. Plastic sheeting, preferably opaque, for constructing weatherproof shelter and for stretching over a hole in the ground and gathering the resulting condensation for drinking water.

    5. Finally, Remembrance of Things Past by Marcel Proust, a work I have never read and likely will never get to. Only so that when eventually, in that arid and neglected place, those who come after me might look from those pages (now yellowing and curled like dead leaves) to my sun-bleached bones, and think to themselves, What a waste. Of course, they will be wrong.

    Rakoff will be the featured guest at the Friends of the Minneapolis Public Library’s annual meeting on October 3; for tickets call 612-630-6155, or visit www.friendsofmpl.org. Don’t Get Too Comfortable, Rakoff’s latest collection of essays, is available in paperback on September 12.

  • The Fourth

    At first, Indigo McCarthy hadn’t realized that an agent from the Department of Agriculture was shadowing him. But he soon learned. The pursuit started at U.S. Postal Service Station No. 4245. The Ag agent was a mole in USPS who’d requested a transfer to Vermontville, the tiny hamlet bordering the resort lake. A lot of middle managers from the city spent summer weekends there with their families. It was the weekend of the Fourth. At the post office, the Ag agent found that he liked sifting through other people’s mail, particularly when the mail had the potential—the energy of activation—to contain harmful animal or vegetable products. Such secret parcels threatened the nation.

    In Indigo’s case, it was a manila envelope with no return address and a Berkeley postmark (itself suspicious), which contained three small packages of Kool-Aid powder: Lemon Punch, Fruit Cocktail, and Wacky Blueberry. Oh, Indigo McCarthy must have been up to something, the agent knew.

    In the tiny post office break room, he blew his nose on a standard-issue department handkerchief, a wheat stalk embroidered on each corner. He double-checked the pump load ammo in his wrist gun, and resealed the envelope with a glue stick he’d picked up from the Ben Franklin store in town. None the wiser. He grimaced. The field office in Milwaukee had the wherewithal to give him a wrist gun, but a ninety-cent glue stick was apparently out of its league.

    A few men and women in trim blue uniforms were coming into the break room from the Secret Break Room that even the infiltrating Ag agent dared not venture into. The aggie hurried. Any one of them could be a plant, he reasoned, from any agency. It was best to be too careful. Indigo knew none of this fifteen minutes later, as he yanked the envelope and two postcards from his PO box and walked away. How could he have? Professional spies were on the scene.

    As he drove his cherry-red SUV from the post office to the lake, past a series of dales and abandoned hobby farms, an Immigration and Naturalization Service official in an SUV followed him. Star-spangled rectangles of cloth rippled on every street corner. The air exploded with toy explosives. The INS agent’s SUV was white and didn’t blend in well. She’d been working this case for a few days, and it was finally coming to fruition. Suspicious packages always portended something suspicious. The INS agent had Indigo’s credit report on the front seat, as well as a Xerox of his recent international itineraries to Canada and Mexico. For “business.” The agent chortled. Indigo had two girls. His wife was a pharmacist. The wife waved at him as he pulled up to their time-share lake cottage. Clean white stucco, worn in, peonies obscuring the cobblestone path through the front yard. But in a pleasant way.

    The INS agent sped on, but not before a metal strip adhering to her passenger-side doorknob took several photos of Indigo’s hand, which held the postcards and envelope. The photos were uploaded to a satellite and then down to a processing station in the basement of a Miami funeral home.

    Unbeknownst to the INS agent, the ghostly afterimages of the photos were intercepted by a Department of Transportation agent hiding in some shrubs across the street, holding something akin to a laser pointer. She uploaded the images and started running away from the SUV, toward the nearest airport, where there was a Cessna waiting to take her back to Duluth.

    “Who are those from, honey?” Marsha, the wife, said. A quick, hot peck on the cheek. It was hot outside. Their marriage was on the rocks. (One didn’t need to be a spy with advanced training to see that!) The two girls, Esther, five, and Miranda, seven, were in the lake, splashing, adorned with life preservers shaped like smiling killer whales. Below the submerged black fins and the legs kicking out, an Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms bureau agent waited with scuba gear and sonar implants, listening. Like Virginia Woolf, he had stones in his pockets when he jumped into the water. He’d learned that through a debriefing of “great American subversives,” and won a certificate for the idea, which hung over his desk back at the Cedar Rapids headquarters. He was quite proud of both the certificate and the desk. The girls giggled. A trout was brushing against their toes.

    “I don’t know,” Indigo said. “I haven’t really looked at them. It’s probably just junk.” It’s all junk, he thought. “I need a beer.”
    “Get it yourself.” Freeze, retreat. Snap, Indigo opened the screen door and got a beer, postal cargo still in hand, snap, a wide-angle lens captured Marsha’s backside as she walked down the cobbled sandstone path to the lake. The sandstone was imported from France. Super suspicious, code red. Snap again, the cobblestones and her ankles, for good measure. Not everyone was honorable.

    Within the lake’s circumference (it was shaped like a pill bug, twitching, ready to curl up), other children played, but in a desultory fashion, as if they knew something unpatriotic were going on in the McCarthy household. Speedboats sped by in front of their cabin a little more slowly. In a few hours they would be angrily shaking their fists, assembling in the town hall, shouting, “Burn down the stucco! Burn down the stucco!” (If the Forest Service agent hiding in a stand of trees had his way.) He couldn’t get close to the house without blowing his cover, which was that of a middle-aged man who had just lost his consultancy job, masturbating amongst the trees, and that was all that could be said about him, except for the pictures he took, three-fourths of which were of Marsha’s behind. Forestry espionage was hard, especially since it was department policy to deforest, which left very few trees for hiding places.

    Indigo sank into the inviting folds of the sofa with his beer. Before he sipped, he set the beer down on the coaster. The coaster released a pheromone undetectable by the human nose. Indigo moved toward the blinds to draw them—a cold chill brushed against his neck, the kind of primitive but still efficient “first strike” response that Indigo’s ancestors had used when hunting for giant elk in the Pictish highlands. Most of the time they didn’t succeed. His wife went into the bathroom to make a call and masturbate. The vibrator was hidden in a carved-out copy of The Prince. Not that little fellow who planet-hopped and got his ass handed to him by a snake; rather, the no-holds-barred paragon from Florence, back when Europe mattered. The pheromone drifted out of the living room and underneath the front door, to a badger waiting in the brush five hundred feet away. Upon detecting the scent, the badger rose to its hind legs to get the circulation going and scurried around the perimeter of the lake through the brushy, as yet undeveloped lot adjoining the McCarthys’. The badger was much more nimble than his species profile; a strict Department of the Interior training regimen ensured this. He also had a small but deadly explosive charge wired to his cerebral cortex, with plasticine woven through his underbelly, but his superiors hoped it wouldn’t come to that. The secret logo of the Department of the Interior was the badger. Screw the docile buffalo, content to chew prairie grasses on the official stationery and apparel of the department. (What happened to the buffalo? Buffalo Bill happened to the buffalo, that was what.)

    “C’mon, little buddy,” the badger handler of the DOI said, waiting in a pickup truck on a road on the other side of the lake, listening on headphones to the badger’s labored breathing. But then the breathing stopped.

    “Honey, do you smell something funny?” Indigo said, calling out to his wife. She didn’t answer. The packages of Kool-Aid still rested unopened next to Indigo’s elbow. Trembling in the air conditioning. The daughters in the lake were listening too, in anticipation. Children had intuitions about perfect summer days, that they could disappear at the drop of a hat. It was a survival tactic.

    There was a soft, but still distinct, explosion a couple of lots over. A man screamed: “I’m on fire, I’m on fire.” Forgetting his cover. But what else could be expected from a Health and Human Services agent who had no experience with badgers in the field? Explosives-laden badgers, at that? The HHS agent—who’d convinced himself through several seminars that his work was to protect the McCarthy children, always think of the children—saw the wiring running underneath the badger’s belly and then pounced from his hiding place in the marshy scrub. He had attempted to take the badger by the tail and club it to death against a rock. But the nearest rock was barely within sight along the lake path, a good two-minute walk away, which required hauling the badger by hand. The animal wasn’t human and therefore didn’t require health or services. For all he knew, the badger could be a double agent for those nasty Belgians. The badger, then, sacrificing everything for the good of the department, exploded.

    Screaming ensued. Indigo, startled, sat up. The Interior agent began crying and sped away, the mission lost. The ATF agent at the bottom of the lake chucked all of his stones at once and began to surface. Indigo called out to his wife again, who again didn’t answer. The screaming stopped. All was still, pleasantly so. Fishers cast their rods. Sunbathers, pale as groupers, turned over on their floating rafts in syncopation.

    Indigo couldn’t decide what to do next. He needed backup, 911. He needed a fire marshal in his corner. He picked up the phone, but the line was dead. Marsha had his cell phone.

    “Marsha?” he called. “Kids?” He went to the bathroom door and tapped on it. No answer. He rattled the handle in that special push-pull that only he knew. Marsha had locked herself in before.

    The bathroom was empty. The window was open, letting in a breeze that felt much too cold, too much in the throes of autumn. Too much autumn. The lake would close and board up in autumn, leaving the residents of Vermontville to waddle between snowbanks en route from car to church or bar. Which was what they probably wanted. They wanted to be left alone by people like Indigo, sophisticated to the point of having agents after him. He looked out the window and saw no one in the yard or the black, quiet lake. He started yelling “Marsha, Marsha,” veering back to the living room. Sitting in the chair he had recently departed from was a man in a black suit. He was wiry thin, and his pianist’s hands were tearing into the manila envelope. Beer frost was on his lips. He had drunk from Indigo’s beer, an outrage somehow more vile than his very presence. Indigo stood there, too afraid not to speak, but lacking words to adequately express what was now in front of him.

    The agent ignored Indigo and tipped the open package down into his lap. The three Kool-Aid packages slid out like origami. The agent carefully placed the manila envelope onto the coffee table and made a stack of the Kool-Aids. Indigo could see, with the motion of hands, the shine of pearlescent gloves.
    “Who are you?” Indigo said.

    “The members of your family are being held as enemy combatants.” The agent didn’t look up. “I imagine you want to know about your family. Families are important.”

    “Who are you?” Indigo asked again. And then, “‘Enemy combatants’?”

    “Stop asking so many questions. It’s clear you hate your family. Since you didn’t ask about them. So let me ask the questions, buster.” The agent stood up. “What do you know about these Kool-Aid packages?” He shook the lurid colors.

    “I don’t know—I don’t know who sent this—”

    “Let me give you a hint. Bad people. People are either good or bad.”

    “I want a lawyer.”

    The agent snorted. “Listen, I told you. Your family consists of enemy combatants. They are thus exempt from the Geneva conventions as well as U.S. jurisprudence. Let us not speak of them again.”

    “My daughters—they’re just kids.” Indigo considered rushing the man, or rushing away. He couldn’t decide. It seemed like an important decision. He wanted it decided for him.

    “Children enjoy Kool-Aid. This is natural.” This statement was simple enough that Indigo suspected a trap. “But as I advised you before—”
    Indigo cocked his head. “What’s that noise?” There was a noise. He wasn’t paranoid, not really. It was a sound like a video game, pixels chiming and exploding, a player raking in a high score.

    The agent put a hand to his ear. For the first time, panic filled his eyes. He straightened his spine. “Fuck,” he said to himself. “It’s too early.” Then he realized that Indigo, a noncommissioned citizen, was his audience. “There’s a Blackbird coming,” he said. “A drone has been launched. Your cottage—” The firework sounds increased. Yes, it was the Fourth of July, a holiday designed to remember the Declaration of Independence that several wealthy planters and shippers had made against a king. But the screeching sound was different, from the sky, plowing down like the future instead of the past. The future always came from the sky.

    The agent got up and ran, ignoring Indigo. The Kool-Aid packets were still on the coffee table. Indigo could hear the agent screaming on the lawn, running toward the lake. For cover. The boom was fast and deafening. Seconds passed. Indigo scooped up the packets and dived under the coffee table. He didn’t quite fit there, but then again, the imitation plywood would afford little solace from the detonation of a smart bomb, anyway. So Indigo was not worried. I have a stomachache, he thought, as the sleek chrome object hit the surface of the earth. Bomb-shelter position as he learned in Catholic school, hands over head, orange-juice light—

    Not exactly the surface of the earth.

    The surface of the lake turned white and horizoned. The window steamed and then shattered, letting in the hothouse air from the outside. Indigo slid out from under the coffee table, clutching the Kool-Aid to him. His whole body shook as he stumbled out of his house, toward the hot lake. The grass on the water’s perimeter was scorched. No one boated or cavorted. The sky, it seemed to Indigo, as he began running toward his car, ought to have been splotched with gray, ready to rain. But the weather never tracked anyone’s interior state—the sky was jewelry blue.

    Something white and light landed on his shoulder, and he flinched. Something landed in his hair. He fished it off. A leaflet. Leaflets falling everywhere: “Your locale has been targeted for subversive activity. Please vacate the premises and contact proper authorities.” The too-late leaflets began to snow around him in earnest. He couldn’t see the source; there wasn’t a plane in the sky.

    He opened the door of his SUV and entered the cool vinyl cave. His wife was lying on the backseat. His children were lying on the backseat behind the backseat, curled into each other. They all slept. He didn’t want to disturb the moment so he started the drive into town. Opening the window, he tossed the Kool-Aid packets out, one by one. He touched the button; the window sealed shut like a guillotine.

    The silence in the car had no precedents, no antecedents. The silence was a vehicle with four bodies in it. Indigo didn’t want to disturb anything. Close to town, the abandoned farmhouses encroached on the newly built super-Wal-Mart. Or was it the other way around. At any rate, the farmhouses loomed with doorless thresholds, sagging floorboards, gutted ovens. He didn’t want those abandoned places. He didn’t want to be abandoned. At this point in the game, watching what he said appeared the best way to achieve that goal. Marsha snored, beginning to wake. He would not tell her about the agent. He would not ask about the package or let on that he knew about her affairs. Probably she had affairs. All he wanted was to drive into town, and then his family would wake, and once in town there would be a parade to attend—patriotic clowns on stilts, the VFW marching with their scarecrow uniforms, cheerleaders throwing sparkled batons high in the air. The batons would fall into hands. And later, when the sky was dark, fireworks would burst upon the public square. Marsha opened her eyes. She sat up and yawned, stretching her arms. It was unclear whether she had a care in the world.

    “Indigo,” she said, still half-asleep, peering down at their children. He clenched the wheel until his knuckles whitened. “Indigo, the kids don’t have their seat belts on. But they’re lying down. Should I wake them? Are they safe?”

    NOTE: “The Fourth” is from Alan DeNiro’s debut collection of short fiction, Skinny Dipping in the Lake of the Dead, recently issued by Small Beer Press.

  • News Junkie

    **Note: See the July 20th NYTimes Magazine cover excerpt from Carr’s forthcoming book, The Night of the Gun. Carr discusses the book August 14th at Magers and Quinn Booksellers and August 18th at Common Good Books.**

    David Carr is slouched against the sweaty door of a cab whose shock absorbers long ago lost the battle with New York City potholes. As the cab rumbles through lower Manhattan, I reflect on my old friend, who is now the media columnist for the New York Times, and the many miles he’s traveled from his Hopkins hometown and the days of fifty-dollar freelance checks. But he’s not thinking about that. Between jolts, he’s attempting to explain his current problem: the obstacles he encounters trying to make real, tactile, journalistic contact within the throbbing heart of New York City’s culture.

     

    “It took me awhile to figure it out here,” Carr says, “where access is controlled and iterated over a series of rooms.

    “I’d be working a story and I’d find myself in a room, where there might be a movie star, or somebody who ran a media company. A room where there was, at long last, no line at the bar, and where that heinous piped-in house music had finally been turned off, and where, if somebody wanted to smoke, they could just smoke. And I figured that after passing through three rooms to get there, to that fourth room, I had finally made it to the epicenter—the white-hot center of New York.”

    The lights of the city blur by, looking unusually lurid and feverish in the oppressive heat of the June night. There’s a view over by the West Side Highway Carr wants me to see. “But then,” he continues, “after I had been in the city awhile, I realized there were probably at least four more rooms, none of which I had known about, much less been to, all of which sort of ended in some final room where, I don’t know, I figured if I ever got there I’d find Henry Kissinger and Madonna fucking a goat.”

    The New York Times will never publish “Henry Kissinger,” “Madonna,” “fucking,” and “goat” in the same sentence. Still, having Carr on one of the paper’s highest profile beats bodes well for one of the biggest pillars of mainstream media. In hiring him, the Times trusted its instinct for unique talent and made peace with a personal résumé that had plenty of Carr’s Minnesota friends doubting that their friend, now forty-nine years old, would ever see thirty. Few people have recovered from a fall so deep into the freaky abyss of addiction, physiological disease, personal dysfunction, and professional discredit.

    To those who know Carr, and likewise were nurtured by media icons such as Hunter S. Thompson, Tom Wolfe, and Joseph Mitchell, his taste for goatish journalistic imagery feels both apt and cathartic. It is quintessential “alternative” stuff. The laughter it evokes confirms and challenges our favorite suspicions. Who doesn’t think, watching the headlines and the appalling distortions of so much of popular media, that the mainstream press couldn’t use a few strokes of vulgar color?

    As for Carr (which is how old Minnesota friends refer to him, though he pointedly insists on “David” rather than “Dave”), his eight-rooms-of-Manhattan analogy is personally apt. It rests on bedrock Carr fascinations—the buzz of pursuit and the adjacency to power, political and sexual—and almost as an aftertaste, it is capped by a distinctly Irish outlook: “They’re all sinners, them lacey types, just like us.” And Carr knows his sinnin’. After a “career Irish” upbringing in Hopkins and college at University of Wisconsin-River Falls and the University of Minnesota, he became a bona fide player, certainly within the subculture of the Twin Cities. For roughly a decade, including most of the 80s, Carr out-rocked some of the towns’ hardest rockers, writers, artists, and dopers, closing as many grimy bars as Charles Bukowski and ingesting more illegal narcotics than any Hunter S. Thompson-wannabe who ever lived to tell about it.

    But things got rough. He divorced, cratered into crack addiction, and fathered twin daughters by a woman who exhibited some of the same problems as Carr. Almost simultaneous with the arrival of his daughters, and after failing three previous shots at treatment, Carr did a term at Eden House in Minneapolis, which is not exactly known for its Hazelden-style accommodations. Then, as if that weren’t enough, there were chemo and radiation treatments after he was diagnosed with Hodgkin’s disease.

    But somehow, encouraged by family members and dozens of Twin Cities friends, but largely on his own resources, Carr popped the sewer grate and hauled himself back up to street level.

    “There was nothing in my family history that condoned being a bad parent,” he said of the view that his time at Eden House provided, and the slap of adult responsibility he experienced there. “I had two eight-month-old daughters. So it wasn’t just me. But, other than that, there really was no Prince Hal moment, where I rose up from under the bar table to become king of England.”

    “David had a lot of support when he went through [Eden House],” recalled Eddie Nagle, who owned Eli’s bar on Hennepin for eleven years until moving to Wisconsin in 2004. Carr calls Nagle, whom he has known since 1981, “maybe my best friend.”

    “He is fiercely loyal to people who are loyal to him, and a lot of people were. But the thing with him is that he’s the kind of guy who always finds a way to get it done. In the dark days, that meant another stop and another round before calling it a night, or in the case of treatment, locking himself up for ninety days in a nut house and getting it done. He’s got that quality. With David the answer is never ‘No.’ ”

    Within four years of leaving Eden House in 1989, Carr became editor of the erstwhile alternative weekly Twin Cities Reader. In 1995, he was recruited to head up City Paper, Washington, D.C.’s well-respected alternative weekly. In 2000, Carr went to New York to write for Inside.com—the high-profile, albeit ultimately doomed project of Kurt Andersen, the Spy magazine co-creator, new media wunderkind, and public-radio host. Though that gig was short lived, Carr parlayed it into contracts with the Atlantic and New York magazines, before being courted by and going over to the Times business section in 2003 to cover the publishing beat. And in June, he signed a six-figure book deal with Simon and Schuster to tell the story of his life so far.

    Carr describes the book as a “transparent memoir.” He pitched it as something of an antithesis to James Frey-style fabulism. Instead of offering his view of his life, he will produce a fully journalistic, third-person, reportorial autobiography, one based on the grim paper trail of rehab, police, and foster-care records, and the not-always-comforting recollections of friends, lovers, and colleagues who were once tossed in his wake.

    “You and I have talked about a number of stories from my past,” Carr told me. “Some of them are good, some of them are boring. Some of them are true. Maybe some of them are not.

    “We all tend to construct these broad narratives about ourselves, where we are an anti-hero or a victim. [The book] will be document-based, so it’ll be more about how other people see me. Mostly set against these stories I’ve told through the years. And I’m not talking about me as a journalist. I’m talking about me as a human being—my Irish heritage, my penchant for hyperbole, and my need to keep dissonance at bay.”

    With college tuition payments for his twins staring him in the face, and having sniffed real cash up close for the past few years, Carr is determined to make the book both journalistically credible and “commercially successful.” To that end, he promises that it will include an elaborate video-blog component. For some of Carr’s Minnesota pals—the tossed-in-the-wake crowd—the acid test for this project will be how successful he is in avoiding the cardinal sin of confessional memoirs: namely, becoming a dreaded auto-hagiography creep.

    David Brauer is one of Carr’s oldest friends. A former editor of Skyway News and Southwest Journal, and a current commentator for MPR, he and Carr got started in journalism together—and at critical moments found themselves competing for the same job and recognition. (Carr concedes, with a modicum of remorse, that he took a covert path all those years ago in beating out Brauer for the editor job at the Reader.)

    “I regard him as one of the most influential people in my life,” said Brauer. “But David makes for a very complicated friend.” Carr taped a video-interview of Brauer for his memoir last summer, and they slogged through the delicate, hot-button stuff.

    “I hope David deploys his full talent on this book. But I have this fear, once he looks at everything, he won’t go all the way. There may be some very hard truths he’s still not willing to confront.” That said, Brauer added, “I have no problem at all saying that David took me places and got me to do things I would have never done without him, and for that I’m forever grateful.”

    Laughing at his own sordid recollections, Brauer said, “David showed me how to do a whole pharmacy cabinet of drugs. But, I have to say, I’m a better, smarter, more aware person because of the time we spent together.

    “When people ask, I always describe him as a ‘personality tornado.’ He sweeps people up and drops you down miles from where you started. He is definitely one of those ‘The State is Me’ kind of guys.”

    Carr’s current beat—covering the congenitally unapologetic mega-egos of American media, and, this past winter, the over-the-top preening of Hollywood’s Oscar campaign—doesn’t surprise Brauer at all. “David’s ambition has always been palpable. Writing about powerful people is perfect for him. He loves power. He’s drawn to it. He has the same kind of ambition as the people he writes about.”

    My own experience with Carr began when I assigned him a freelance story for the Twin Cities Reader back in the early 80s. He insists it was his first professional assignment. All I recall is an extraordinarily garrulous and rather rotund Irish guy clogging the doorway to my office, going on in righteous outrage about a friend of his father’s allegedly being beaten up by Minneapolis cops for having the temerity to “step off the curb” as a bystander and question the cops’ treatment of a black guy in their custody.

    The story he wrote on this was pretty damned good, not to mention being a vital infusion of gravitas for a publication then running on the fumes of high-attitude music and movie criticism. As with dozens of other local writers, I eventually fell in with Carr’s retrograde cultural caravan. I found myself closing down Moby Dick’s in previously unimagined back rooms populated by characters with more scars than teeth, consuming enough recreational drugs to stupefy a frat house, and seeking to establish meaningful contact with my inner prairie-Catholic bohemian.

    Very few people keep up with Carr step for step today, much less shot for shot, toke for toke, and snort for snort in those years. Eventually, I backed off the throttle and settled into the steady, responsible flow of suburban parenthood. But reports on Carr’s relentless adventure continued to come in, turning steadily more dire, devolving from rollicking to near-tragic.

    Under a blistering sun and eighty percent humidity, Carr and I met up on a Thursday afternoon in June in Bryant Park, behind the New York Public Library. Carr, who seems perpetually Wi-Fi connected, was typically resplendent in a moth-eaten T-shirt, unlaundered jeans and two days’ worth of stubble. Not exactly Maureen Dowd. He’s lost probably seventy pounds since we first met more than twenty years ago. The radiation treatment for Hodgkin’s did a number on the muscles in his neck, causing him to walk these days with a pronounced stoop until he remembers to pull himself erect, and he’s hoarse from the combined effects of air conditioning and cigarettes (no friend dares admonish Carr about the butt addiction).

    We toured, ate, and talked through the evening, catching up before doing a classic Carr “finishing game” at a subterranean bar in the shadow of the Port Authority bus terminal.

    With its battered, signage-free service door and a seating that includes stacked boxes, broken toilets, and plastic lawn chairs, Siberia is a place easily mistaken for the aftermath of an explosive Shiite attack. (It used to be located off a stairway in the Fiftieth Street subway stop—a literal hole in the wall.) Its owner, a bulky, affable, pony-tailed guy named Tracy Westmoreland, had called Carr a couple of hours earlier to invite him in. Tracy’s personality resemblance to Carr’s Minnesota buddy Eddie Nagel is immediately obvious.

    “Tracy collects people,” said Carr. “Especially media people. He’s just one of those New York characters. Psychokinetic things seem to happen around him. Or at least you always think you’re minutes away from something silly or wonderful.

    “Tracy’s more than just a casual friend. He’s true blue. Believe me, when you make a friend in New York, you better hang on to him.”

    Carr waved us down to a lower level, where the bar was shorter, the lights lower, and the furniture included filthy, battered couches every college guy recognizes from his slummy front porch. Down here, Tracy was hosting a birthday party for Anthony Bourdain, the globe-trotting Travel Channel chef, who was holding court in a red-lit storage room still deeper within the joint’s mechanical bowels. Jimmy Fallon was there, too, but national names aside, it could have been Moby Dick’s and 1985 all over again.

    Carr is fond of saying that the Times today, all its Gray Lady heritage and majestic support hose notwithstanding, has become receptive to writers who have “a high game and a low game.” In other words, writers comfortable both in the salons of power and saloons of subterranea. By hiring writers and editors with pedigrees of the alternative persuasion—writers from papers in which Henry Kissinger and startled goats used to mix freely—the Times has effectively brought the counterculture in-house, he argues. Granted, such outside-the-box journalists are, midlife, more focused on tuition payments than toot.

    “What has happened,” Carr said, “is that the tools and assets of the insurgency have been built into the modern execution of journalism.” He recalled a recent bull session with his colleagues on business writers’ mixing reporting and opinion. “I said, ‘You know, you guys have to understand that the ground that they stand on at the New York Times has changed so much. There is so much in the way of analytics and point of view embedded into reporting, it is absolutely baked in, in a way where people don’t even see it anymore.’

    “It’s like the way the generals running the Army right now came out of Vietnam,” he told me. “A lot of the best editors in daily newspapers came out of alternatives.

    “For a long time, if you read the editorial pages of say, the Washington Post”—a paper Carr regularly skewered in the media column he also wrote those five years in Washington, D.C.—“they’d all end the same. You know, ‘These are terrible problems. Really terrible problems that someone should do something about, someday.’ I don’t think that kind of limp-wristed stuff washes anymore.”

    Carr’s editor at the Times culture desk is Sam Sifton, a former managing editor at the New York Press, an alternative weekly. “It is increasingly inaccurate,” said Sifton, taking up Carr’s point, “to draw a divide between the alternative press and what constitutes the mainstream. We are doing stories [at the Times] today that would never have been done here before.”

    He seemed to suggest the newspaper’s better, broader view of life is a happy consequence of a better, broader range of reporter types. Including maybe people who, to paraphrase Neil Young, may have jerked the wheel a few times in their lives and drove into the ditch, because the people there were more interesting.

    Is the Times today more accepting of talented people with messy past histories?

    “Yeah,” said Sifton. “There are plenty of people here with messy past histories. Plenty with messy present histories, too.”

    A prime example of Carr’s “high-low” game, and the Times’ enthusiasm for it, was Carr’s avid submergence in last winter’s Oscar season, a two-month blitz of hype, sheer hype, raw hype, and more hype with almost no discernable Greater Cultural Value.

    “It was a bet we made,” said Sifton. The bet being that a credible news organization could cover the daily minutiae of the Oscar race without pandering to the airhead audiences who flock to the salt lick of “celebrity news.”

    “We knew it would only succeed if the writer, David, was willing to fully commit to it, adapt the persona”—Carr assumed a nom de hype, “The Carpetbagger”—“and devote himself to it 150 percent. David did a terrific job, in my opinion.”

    Times elders apparently agreed, because “Carpetbagger II, The Sequel,” involving loads of travel expenses, will be unveiled at the first stroke of the Oscar clock next year.

    Like Carr, Sifton sees The New York Times Company evolving from a newspaper company into an “information” company, a shift that implies both the necessity and the willingness to fold previously alien technologies, like blogging and video, into the formal product.

    The “Carpetbagger” blog, while perhaps not quite as merrily rank as Los Angeles’ Defamer site, rested on solid journalistic fundamentals, like hundreds of phone calls. The video-blog that went with it, with Carr toeing the boundaries of Hollywood’s overused red carpets and sampling the Oscars fascination to average schmoes in Times Square, effectively peeled away the movie industry’s dense layers of self-reverence. More to the point, “Carpetbagger” showed what, given the right writer/character, credible journalism can do with pop-culture mania.

    A few days after the Siberia finishing game, Carr and I were returning to Montclair, New Jersey, from a weekend in the Adirondacks. Montclair is a leafy commuter town thick with journalists who’ve escaped Manhattan; Carr and his wife, Jill Rooney Carr, live in a 1920s Colonial with the twins, Megan and Erin, and his youngest daughter, Madeleine.

    During the long ride in his aged Saab, far from freshly detailed, I asked Carr what he thinks resurrected him and earned him cachet on the national media landscape. “I guess I’ve done OK in New York,” he responded, flicking cigarette ashes out an open slit of window, “not because I’ve been all that cunning or smart, or know and understand the wiring diagram, but I think it’s more because I’m not real fearful. If I look like a rube or offend some precious sensibilities, I don’t care about that.

    “I’m a person who has owed people a lot of money I didn’t have. I’ve had guns pointed at me. I’ve been a single parent. So being in a room and telling people things they might not be comfortable with, that doesn’t scare me. No big deal.

    “I care how I’m seen, and I want to be fair, but I’m not overly impressed by what people think of me. I certainly have my eccentricities. But the things that are at my core are substantial and significant, and the kinds of things you can rely on. Good values, hard worker, not easily scared. Those are not extraordinary assets, but they are very valuable.”

    Does he think he’s modulated his tone or style to adapt to the vaunted institutional traditions of the Times?

    “Well,” he said, after a pause, “you know, I’m more than happy to come over the hill and just fill someone with lead. But when you’re working at the New York Times, it’s not just a blood sport; you really could ruin someone’s life. There is a conference of credibility that goes with the New York Times as your last name. And I found that paralyzing in the early going. You really could do serious damage to people. I called Anderson Cooper ‘a silver-haired empath.’ That was kind of a joke. I said Angelina Jolie made building a family look like collecting Beanie Babies. That was kind of a joke. But I do really worry about hurting people’s feelings. My experience with most media people is not that they have thin skin; it’s that they have no skin. I’m not going to be one of those people.”

    That odd mix of aggressive imagery and underlying sympathy for his subjects is perhaps a residual effect of Carr’s own experience. It’s as if he simultaneously recalls the terror of having the gun pointed at him and the power of having survived it.

    For all his think-tank-worthy analyses of journalistic aspirations and foibles, it’s Carr’s experiences of courted danger that have imbued him with the questing skeptic’s notion that all placid, dignified exteriors withstanding, if you push hard enough, schmooze well enough, and deploy enough ribald Irish verbiage, you will eventually gain entrée to the aforementioned eighth room where Kissinger, Madonna, and some misbegotten beast engage in activities heretofore unimagined by decent hardworking readers of the New York Times.

  • In the Foothills of Dog Heaven

    Lisa LaVerdiere is clearly tired of being asked the question: “How do you remember all their names?”

    “I tell people, ‘Didn’t you go to high school? Don’t you know two hundred people?’” she asks incredulously.

    The 225 or so animals that reside at Home for Life in Star Prairie, Wisconsin, may look interchangeable to most people, but as LaVerdiere, who founded the sanctuary, points out, “They’re all individuals to us.” And, unlike high school students, most of the animals have only one name to remember. Good, solid names like Max, Sailor, Kobi, and Sherlock.
    Once you hear their stories it will be hard to forget their names, either. They are the unadoptable, the throwaway pets no one wanted. Some are aging companions whose owners passed on first. Some were abused, such as Nike, an Alaskan husky who was born lame, which may have been the only thing that kept him from suffering the fate of his mother and littermates—being used as a bait dog for pit bull fights. Others were merely mishandled by busy people wanting an accessory, not a responsibility.

    Those animals that survived to call this forty-acre sanctuary on the banks of the Apple River home live better than some of the so-called pampered pets of the suburbs. The dogs reside in air-conditioned miniature townhomes bordered by flowerbeds. They are exercised and cared for by a staff of twenty full- and part-time people, and visits by the public are limited to prearranged times: “This is their home, not a zoo,” says LaVerdiere.

    Dogs romp in a fenced field, where a large tortoise named Goliath occasionally joins them after being outfitted with a homing device—a flag stuck in a funnel that’s been strapped on to his back with an ace bandage. Cats, many infected with feline HIV or leukemia, lounge on beds in large, sunny rooms, along with their roommates, rabbits (called honorary cats) and caged birds.

    The sanctuary was created to reflect the animals’ perspective. And, unlike shelters, which LaVerdiere refers to as the canine equivalent of “mixers in high school where you’re on display [while] waiting for someone to ask you to dance,” Home for Life allows the animals to live with dignity. The home’s residents come from all over the country, and LaVerdiere does her best to accommodate all the requests she receives.

    Adoption can be a happy ending or an odyssey of being shuffled from home to home. About one-fourth of the adopted pets are returned, she says, adding angrily, “Recycling is great for bottles and cans, but not animals.”

    LaVerdiere looks like a lawyer in jeans and a T-shirt—confident, in charge, but not opposed to getting her hands dirty. The petite forty-six-year-old followed her father into law and “I turned out to be good at it,” she says, “which was a drag.” She now divides her time between her law practice and managing Home for Life, which requires constant fund raising to meet its fifty to sixty thousand dollars a month in operating expenses. She’s aided by sponsors from all over the U.S. and Canada, as well as the well-heeled local crowd of those who attend glitzy fund raisers and bid on art donated by the likes of pop artist Peter Max and Blue Dog painter, George Rodrigue.

    The idea of a sanctuary for pets who, in another time and place, would have been euthanized was controversial when LaVerdiere founded it in 1997. “The thought was that they were companion animals, and if they couldn’t live in a home they should be put down,” she says.

    Try suggesting that after watching Nike, with the aid of a canine wheelchair, chase his four-legged buddy in the upper field. Or Max, who is living out the second or third of his nine lives in comfort after someone cut off his ears, tail, and all four paws.

    The animals are respected not only in life, but also in death. This September, a Native American spiritual advisor and Episcopal priest will bless a new memorial garden where river rocks with the names of the animals on them will mark their cremated remains. The ceremony is long overdue, LaVerdiere admits, sheepishly. She’s been storing boxes of ashes in her library at home, which her husband calls “creepy.”

    Like any cause, the largest stumbling block is the finite pot of money and resources that has to be split among all the groups doing good work. There’s not one solution that fits all situations—nor all animals. And, LaVerdiere points out, even good decisions, such as spaying and neutering pets, can lead to problems down the road, such as a dearth of puppies that leads to unscrupulous puppy mills springing up.

    LaVerdiere has a dream of expanding her network of sanctuaries to other communities. She’d also like to expand the existing location by buying the property next door. It all takes money, which means more fund raising and more oversight of facilities.

    “You need heart and head in animal work,” LaVerdiere says, sighing. “You can’t have one without the other when animals are depending on you for their lives and people for their paychecks.”

  • Hot and Very, Very Heavy

    Michael McGillis is at the Franconia Sculpture Park, standing in a pile of cut-and-scattered wood. He’s wearing shorts, heavy work boots, and a straw hat, and is looking sweaty and overwhelmed. His work in progress, Paper Cut, isn’t really turning out the way he’d planned.

    He began by digging a curving trench; in his mind’s eye, he would then lay cut wood horizontally on either side of the trench, so that people could walk through it and feel like they were parting the Red Sea, only they’d be parting the trees, stacked like cordwood and towering over their heads. “People become the cutters themselves,” notes McGillis of his original vision. A visitor would feel enveloped, overwhelmed—kind of how McGillis seems to be feeling now.

    He and his helpers don’t dig for long before they hit the water table. So much for the deep trench. He also isn’t able to get as many of the white and red oak and ash trees as the project required. As the installation is developing now, you’ll have to be really short to get the total experience. But all of his sculptural installations seem to have gone this way, McGillis admits. “It’s about improvising.”

    When McGillis is finished, you won’t be able to really see the installation from a distance because it will blend in with the landscape. But up close, as you walk into it, the experience will be quite different. Like some of his other pieces, McGillis will paint the ends of the trees an unearthly, iridescent color. “Maybe a blue,” he says. “I want it to be a bright, almost impossible space.”

    Which is exactly what Franconia is for the artists who travel there to work for various periods of time and at various points in their careers. Some, like McGillis, who is here on a Jerome Foundation grant, have already built successful careers as sculptors. Others are moving toward that goal; still others are just getting started.

    I had pictured a summer at Franconia as the sort of bacchanal for sculptors that the Bread Loaf Writer’s Conference is supposed to be for writers. But here McGillis was, actually puzzling over his art and trying to get his project done so he could go home to his wife, toddler, and newborn.

    His work is one of the first pieces to be installed on Franconia’s new site. After renting land for eleven years, the park will soon have a permanent home on its own land, down the road about half a mile from its current spot. John Hock, Franconia’s founding and artistic director, works tirelessly to keep what one of the interns calls “a sculptor’s paradise” thriving. Somehow, he’s hooked up with Slumberland, which has entirely furnished the new house where the sculptors will stay with items including leather couches that are sure to get plenty of use in the coming months. The Jacuzzi (which came with the place) has already been the site for a number of physics experiments. It’s a two-person tub, but it turns out you can actually get about eight people in it. Of that water-displacement exercise, Hock says with a snort, “We proved that water flows downward.” Aha. This is what I was waiting to hear.

    Back at the original park, Coral Lambert comments matter-of-factly to a passing middle-aged guy who’s covered in dust and powder: “You’re dirty.” Indeed, this place is a beehive of filthy sculptors. Getting ready for the hot metal pour the next day, the artists are taking turns breaking up the old radiators and theater chairs that will become tomorrow’s art, and putting the finishing touches on their molds.

    Tonight, they will stay up as long as it takes to get their projects ready for pouring. How early they rise on any given day “depends on how much you’ve had to drink the night before,” smirks one of the interns, but tomorrow they’ll all be up early. Which is not to say you can’t both work and play hard. I go on a cold-beer run with Melanie Van Houten, a faculty member at St. Kate’s who is spending part of the summer here by helping out and working on her own stuff. Tomorrow, she’ll be “mold captain,” in charge of lining up the molds and orchestrating the pourings. Everyone who goes anywhere near the molten iron, the temperature of which ranges from 2,750 to 3,000 degrees, will be wearing heavy leather and work boots.

    The fruits of all this labor will be on display in September, when Franconia hosts one of its last shows on its current grounds. The mid-career artists really do seem to be working on their art, and while they might enjoy an occasional moonlit skinny-dip in the nearby St. Croix River, it’s up to the interns to keep things carnal. I happened to walk in on two of them while making my way to what I thought was the bathroom. After knocking, I opened the door and found the artists covered in sheets from the shoulder down, engaged in a pleasant mid-afternoon conversation about sculpture and form, no doubt.

    But of course, art is an exploration of the human experience. One good-looking young man explains the process of drilling holes in the molds for pouring and venting. “There’s a lot of heat and pressure building up,” he says.
    And sometimes you’ve just gotta blow it off. I overhear stories of late-night underwear dancing (a male intern wears a leopard-print thong for such occasions), and a particular evening spent underneath a large sculpture. “There were a whole bunch of us,” says one artist-in-training, “and we were butt naked and playing the trombone.” So that’s what the kids are calling it these days.

  • The Student Body Eclectic

    On a Minneapolis fall morning, arriving buses plant casual-Friday-dressed workers along Hennepin Avenue. At most stops, jean-jacketed and khakied women and polo-shirted men stream out, but the passengers who disembark at 730 Hennepin are a different variety. They run the gamut of fashion, from dress shirts and polished shoes to hijabs to basketball jerseys to “Mean People Suck” T-shirts. As they drift into their building just a spitball’s distance from First Avenue, they attract the attention of the Hennepin Avenue crowd, which is exactly what Joel Gibson wants.

    Gibson is executive director of Lincoln International High School, an alternative school whose student body is made up exclusively of immigrants and refugees. Established in 1997, Lincoln receives funding from the district; students find out about the school through social service referrals and word of mouth. Numbering nearly three hundred, the students hail from a dozen countries, though most are from Ecuador, Mexico, Ethiopia, and Somalia. Alternative schools like Lincoln are run by organizations that use district money and their own methods to educate at-risk populations. “Once they get the tools they need to fit into society, they will enrich it,” says Gibson. The school raises three hundred thousand dollars beyond the money from the district to have the small class sizes and individual attention that will allow students to learn English, get job skills, and become collaborative members of society.

    On the wall of the five-story school, “My Life” posters plot the paths of individual students from the countries where they were born to their arrivals in Minnesota. One story begins on a farm in Mexico and ends at an after-school job loading trucks at a fruit distributor. Another student tells of being born in Mogadishu to a businessman father, then fleeing to live among his grandmother’s camels in northern Kenya before finally coming to Minneapolis.

    The past year was one of adjustment to the new location: new buses to take and more stairs to climb. During passing time, the school explodes with the sounds of slamming lockers—a novelty at the new site, as is hot lunch. The school newspaper brags about the new basketball team and, though many of the students’ cultures disapprove of dating, the school has organized a prom.

    Many of Lincoln’s students have lived through war, terror, and other intense traumas. Some have arrived without parents and other family members, and about a third have never before attended school. They are older students, most between eighteen and twenty-two years old, with mustaches, marriages, and children. For some, the main objective can simply be learning to sit through classes for an entire day, along with learning English; for others, it involves navigating more complex social norms.

    Suad Mahammud, a Somalian seventeen-year-old clad in a stylish turquoise skirt and hijab, is happy to rave about the school. Because she had attended school and learned English in Uganda, after her family had left Somalia, some friends and family were puzzled by her decision to attend the “immigrant school.” However, for Mahammud the decision was part of exercising her right, in America, to make choices. She wanted to attend a school where there is no violence, where students listen to and respect teachers. “We are all here for one goal,” she says.

    There is an overwhelming sense among the students that despite their efforts, they and their school are going unnoticed. While the students who are in the country as refugees feel more secure than their immigrant classmates, there is still a permeating sense of otherness. The school’s downtown location is a step toward a solution to that segregation, as are planned internships and other interactions with the downtown business community. One of the reasons the school moved downtown from South Minneapolis last fall was to bring visibility to this hidden population. Even the orange and blue awnings that flutter outside the building were chosen not to show the school’s colors, but for their eye-catching combination. “If people would come in and check it out, they would see that we are trying to be the best people we can be,” says Mahammud.

    Mahammud’s history teacher is screening All Quiet on the Western Front. Mr. Pilgram is the classic high school history teacher, dressed in a blue cardigan and a tie printed with a world map. An American flag-print Puffs box sits on his desk. “They’re burning books here,” he says, pointing to the movie screen. “Book?” one girl puzzles. Her classmate turns to her, whispers “B-o-o-k,” and opens and closes her hands in the international symbol for book.