It’s dusk, and there’s an unmistakable whiff of charcoal in the air. It’s the sign of the outdoor cooking season, and is as eagerly awaited as the return of the red-winged blackbirds to the tree by my driveway. I look at my own shining, gray monster on the deck and I start thinking of the burgers and the steaks to come. Ah, the possibilities of a burger: the pile of avocado, the hint of blue cheese, the accent of arugula. Recently, though, I’ve been thinking less about what’s going on my burger than what’s going in it.
Of late, there’s been much talk about what your meat eats. Has it spent its life roaming hills of grassy green, or has it been crowded into a pen munching on corn? How does that simple distinction affect nutritive value; how does it affect the world at large? And, most important, how does it affect the taste? After all, soybeans may be healthy, but you won’t see any McSoy Huts popping up anytime soon.
Used to be, most cattle were raised and fed on the pasture grasses that covered the better part of the United States. As the population grew, so did the demand for beef. Certain efficiencies became necessary. Beef cattle were taken off the grassy hills and relegated to feedlots, where they were penned and fed a diet of corn and other grains. This allowed them to gain weight rapidly and be ready for slaughter sooner. Today, the majority of beef comes from these lots.
But because of increasing interest in organic and traditional agriculture, grass-fed beef is making a comeback. The guiding principle behind the grass-fed movement is rather simple: Cattle are designed to eat grass. Cows, like sheep and other cloven-hoofed herbivores, are called “ruminants” because their bodies possess a rumen, a tank in which grasses are converted to proteins and fats. When the animals are fed corn and other grains, their bodies react with rapid growth and increased fat production, but only with the aid of supplements, antibiotics, and growth hormones. Without the supplements, it’s likely that the cattle wouldn’t be able to live on corn. Moreover, grain-fed cattle have a higher intestinal acidity, which provides a great breeding environment for the pathogenic E. coli bacteria. And that’s not good for people who love rare burgers.
Grass-fed fans will quickly point out that their beef is not only less likely to make you ill, but it might just make you feel better. Many a doctor has extolled the virtues of grass-fed beef. It is lower in cholesterol and that nasty saturated fat. Meat from grass-fed beef is higher in omega-3 fats, the necessary fats that are also found in nuts, fish, and soybeans. Then there’s the fact that it’s four times higher in vitamin E than grain-fed beef, and considerably higher in conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), which is associated with lower cancer risk. And of course, grass-fed cattle, which never eat genetically produced or flesh-based feed, are far less likely to become “mad cows.”
There are many environmental arguments that can be made for pasture-raised beef. The energy it takes to feed corn to a cow is considerable, especially when compared with an animal that forages off natural growth. While a wandering animal drops waste as it goes, providing natural fertilizer for the next season’s grasses, a feedlot cow’s waste heaps about her, creating polluted air and water.
Locally, the standard for grass-fed beef has become the farmers who make up Thousand Hills Cattle Company out of Cannon Falls. Inspired by Michael Pollan’s New York Times account of the horrific life of feedlot animals, Todd Churchill decided to do what he could to bring pasture-raised beef to everyone’s attention. Their pastures are all-natural, never sprayed with synthetic pesticides or herbicides, and their livestock are never fed any corn, grain, or animal byproducts. Currently the chef’s favorite, you can find Thousand Hills products at many city co-ops, Kowalski’s, and Simon Delivers.
Finally, to the meat of the issue: Grass-fed beef does have a different taste than the meat you may be used to. Because of many factors, such as the higher concentration of omega-3 fats, the natural variability of grasses ingested, and the different breeds of cows being raised, the beef tends to have a stronger flavor that some may not recognize. What’s remarkable is that, even without the usually high-fat marbling seen in other beef, properly cooked pasture-raised beef remains tender, juicy, and flavorful.
Some chefs believe that the best way to treat the beef is to cook it slowly. Cafe Brenda, which has been the natural-food standard of the Twin Cities for twenty years, recently added grass-fed beef to the menu. On the night I was there, it arrived in the form of a richly turned pot roast. The flavor of the beef was softened by the long cooking process but was teased out beautifully with the red wine sauce.
Scott Pampuch of Corner Table prefers braising. You’d agree if you ate his braised short ribs with earthy barley in a porcini broth.
Grass-fed beef can be treated simply or elegantly. At Café Minnesota at the Minnesota History Center, a roast beef sandwich with local blue cheese has the perfect salty bite that rings with tanginess. Chef Alexander Roberts of Restaurant Alma prefers to treat it a little more delicately. His grass-fed beef carpaccio is a graceful dish with a creamy celery root aioli, grated horseradish, and spicy arugula. A sprinkling of fleur de sel brings it together. Finally, a classic grass-fed filet at Cue is complemented with oyster butter to balance the flavor, and set with braised escarole and lentils.
There’s some doubt that I will be able to turn this season wholly over to grass-fed beef, if last year’s attempt at a total whole-grain conversion is any indication. But if I start with a burger—maybe the season’s first burger—I might be able to convince my family that the almost-forgotten flavor of traditional beef is well worth recalling at every opportunity.
Tips For Cooking Grass-fed Beef
From Rachel Rubin, executive chef of Thousand Hills Cattle Co.
Grass-fed beef shouldn’t be cooked beyond medium. Internal temp for grilling should be between 120° (rare) and 145° (med). To check doneness, press steak with your finger. Medium-cooked will be slightly firm, but still springy to the touch. Or simply cut into the steak to gauge whether you’ve achieved the desired pinkness.
Marinade
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup lemon juice
4 cloves chopped garlic
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp cracked black pepper
Yields one cup. Increase as needed for size of cut. Combine all ingredients and mix well. Pour over beef, cover, and refrigerate. Small cuts can marinate for up to three hours, large roasts for up to three days.
SHOP TALK
When you think of May, think fresh fish in the park. Minnehaha Park’s Sea Salt Eatery is open for another season, offering killer oyster po’ boys and clam fries, y’all … St. Paul’s District del Sol will host it’s twenty-fifth Cinco de Mayo celebration May 4-5. If your mouth can’t find a big enough boost during the annual salsa competition, head over to the seventy-fifth Festival of Nations at RiverCentre, which is held the very same weekend as Cinco de Mayo. There, you’ll find at least thirty-five global cafés, ready to feed your cravings in any language … Think your Mom’s crumb cake was the ultimate? Prove it! Submit a recipe and brief essay on dear old mom to the Mother’s Day Recipe Contest sponsored by Let’s Cook. Dishes will be judged on May 10 during a benefit for the Domestic Abuse Project … For fans of the morel mushroom, May means two things: early morning forages through state parks and a visit to the Bayport Cookery for an ever-magical morel dinner, offered only in the springtime.
CUISINE SUPREME
Osaka
Sometimes faded strip malls hide the best treasures. Osaka is one such gem, tucked as it is inside the old Time Square mall in Apple Valley. Walk into the bar for a drink or sushi; the blue lanterns cast a modern glow against the dark mahogany walls. The great room beyond holds a gathering of hibachi tables, expertly manned by smiling, knife-wielding pros. Working their blades, they turn a great meal. Sushi lovers will find their favorites, plus some interesting special rolls like the Black Dragon with lobster, eel, and avocado. The Love Boat is literally a boatload of raw fish, artfully arranged and, of course, freshly cut. 7537 148th St. W., Apple Valley; (952) 432-6155.
Duplex
Many brunches, especially in the Uptown area, are designed to help patrons refuel after wild nights on the town—a feat that is usually achieved with starchy or extra-sweet foods without a lot of character. Duplex hosts a brunch for the rest of us, those who wish to be awakened by the freshness and flavor of the day’s first meal. Eggs star on the menu, as with the poached eggs Florentine with a creamy and tangy bleu cheese hollandaise. The East Coast scramble gives us light and fluffy eggs with soft and salty smoked salmon, while the Argentine chorizo hash offers a more robust start to the day. Those craving a taste of something sweet will enjoy the hot, crunchy Belgian waffle doused with pure maple syrup. 2516 Hennepin Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-381-0700.
Ngon Vietnamese Bistro
This rather meager space, formerly known as Pho Anh, has received something of a French kiss. The hanging sign hasn’t changed, but the new name on the University Avenue door reads “Ngon Vietnamese Bistro,” and the vibe reads French Colonial. Bright, welcoming walls, bamboo flooring and colonial chandeliers and ceiling fans add something the space was sorely lacking—ambience. But it’s the food that adds the spark. Traditional dishes like broken rice, pho, and lemongrass beef are made with fresh, quality ingredients. Don’t miss the non-traditional daily specials, such as fish with a spicy ginger glaze or pork tenderloin with tangy aioli. With any luck, these dishes will play more prominent roles as the menu evolves. 799 University Ave. W., St. Paul; 651-222-3301.
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