Category: Food and Drink

  • King Corn

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    Driving in any direction out of Minnesota, witnessing the endless rows of swaying stalks, it’s easy to get the feeling that corn is ubiquitous. You have no idea.

    The other night I got a sneak peek at a movie that will change how you feel about that drive. King Corn is a documentary film about one acre of corn … and destiny.

    Ian Cheney and Curt Ellis are two college chums who, during some typical post-college introspection, realize their mortality and how it may be linked to what they, and their generation, eat. So they pull up their East Coast stakes and move to Iowa to farm one acre of corn.

    From planning to planting to harvesting, the two guys ponder the impact of corn on our country: its dominance as a subsidized crop, its influence on the price of food, its prevalence in fast food, even its effect on the farmers that grow it. Some of what they find shocked me, like the fact that corn-fed cattle are responsible for 70% of the total antibiotic consumption in the US. I personally identified with their efforts to find food free of high fructose corn syrup (a hillarious scene when they try to make HFCS at home). Michael Pollan fans will not be disappointed.

    Coincidentally, both Cheney and Ellis have an ancestral link to Greene, IA, the small farming community that plays host to the film and the single acre of corn. To their credit, they never belittle the farmers or town-folk. Instead they invest themselves in the community, trying to find their own roots through local relatives and the honest work of raising a crop.

    While this film will be compared to Spurlock’s Super Size Me, I think it runs deeper. Instead of a sweeping and snarky attack of a corporate giant, Cheney and Ellis take the fight home, raising the hardest questions first with themselves. These aren’t preaching hippies out to condemn corn farmers, they’re burger-lovin’ college kids who actually care about the crop they’ve raised and where it ends up. They just have questions, and hopefully you will too.

    Right now, King Corn is in limited release around the country, but there are efforts afoot to bring it to the Twin Cities. The timing couldn’t be better, or more obviously planned, as congress is due to debate the Farm Bill for the first time in seven years.

  • More Market!

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    This from Patty Brand, the Maven of the Friends of the St. Paul Farmers’ Market:

    Many of you may know that there was a groundbreaking ceremony for the Indoor Market Hall/Market Flats Project in mid September. Since then work has progressed on digging the hole. We have waited considerable time for this to happen and now we can watch as the building is constructed. The Market should be ready for the growers/producers of the St. Paul Farmers’ Market in time for next fall and the coming years.

    But that doesn’t mean you should forget the market until next Fall … from now through December you can find onions, potatoes, carrots, brussel sprouts, cauliflower, squash, pumpkins, apples, lettuce, cabbage, poultry, chocolates, breads, cheeses, leeks, beef, pork, lamb, wild rice, beef jerky, flowers, eggs, honey, jams, maple syrup, and more! Doesn’t that sound like a Thanksgiving round-up?

    Now through Nov 17th … Saturdays, 6am – 1pm
    Wed Nov 21 … 12 noon – 6pm Turkey delivery date (you can still order your fresh turkey, it’s not too late!)
    Dec 1 through April 19th … Saturdays, 9am – 12 noon

    As the winter descends, chillier mornings will drive some of the producers inside Jim Golden’s Deli just West of the market across Wall St.

    Shop on!

  • Windy City Eats

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    big shoulders and good hot dogs

    I’m feeling old. I’m headed down to Chicago with some of my brood for a college visit/tour. My daughter is looking at Loyola and University of Chicago and I have to go along and ask all the right questions: how recently was the dining hall renovated? can she access ice cream and Froot Loops 24/7? how close is the nearest pizza place? what’s the average distance from dorm to coffee shop?

    Post-tour, it’s up to me to figure out where to eat. Do we go to my favorite Mia Francesca’s and fight for a table just to eat the world’s best beef carpaccio? Or do we hit the slightly more kid-friendly and vogue Hot Doug’s for a serious dog?

    At the very least we should drive by the Green City Market, so she knows there’s a reason to cook in the city. And locating the best cheese shop will be essential to survival.

    Though the city is famous for its deep dish pizza, my girl happens to be a Punch employee, and thusly a thin-crust snob. We might check out Spacca Napoli just to see their massive oven.

    I can’t say how I feel about the schools, but I am rooting for the city.

  • California Dreaming

    Last spring brought a nasty shock. I was walking down a leafy side street off Como Avenue, hoping to admire in passing the jolly gingerbread woodwork around the eaves of the tumbledown duplex where my POSSLQ and I shared our first Minnesota home. The place was in pretty poor nick when we rented it twenty years ago; the waste pipe for the kitchen sink (located for some reason on the landing) was held together by duct tape, squirrels nested noisily in the roofing felt. But in happier times it had been a boyhood home of Governor Floyd B. Olson. Indeed, a previous tenant had tried to have it listed on the National Register of Historic Places, but apparently there was no enthusiasm in official circles for starting a Floyd B. Olson Boyhood Home Tour—the future governor’s family had moved house rather often. No doubt the authorities thought he was better remembered by half of Highway 55 and one of the world’s biggest bronze double-breasted suits.

    Anyway, as I rounded the corner I saw not crumbling timber but a large brown hole. This dust inbreathèd was the house, the wall, the wainscot, and the mouse (no shortage of mice). Above the hole, memories swam suspended in a patch of sky: Roses are red/ Violets are blue/ Please will you be/ My POSSLQ. This empty air was where we opened the sherry which had been a parting gift from my previous employer; it was where we survived on short commons till the first paycheck came in, a month after our arrival.

    I recall tearing into the envelope and announcing—as any Englishman might—that we should celebrate by going out for curry. Except, of course, in those days there were no curry houses in the Twin Cities. We compromised on an Afghan place, where we chose to sit on the floor cushions, feeling full of Eastern promise—the POSSLQ, fortunately, is better upholstered than I am.

    Today we would have plenty of choice. The proliferation of curry houses is one of the best things to happen in the Twin Cities during the past ten years. Not that they form an oenological opportunity. I have met wines that will stand up to curry but none yet that forms as happy a marriage with it as IPA, the India Pale Ale brewed by Victorian box-wallahs for precisely that purpose.

    This happy marriage is no more than you might expect. The standard curry-house menu derives, like IPA, from the long symbiosis between the peoples of the British Isles and those of the Indian subcontinent; it is not “authentically” Indian. Chicken tikka masala, now (“studies have shown”) England’s favorite national dish, was probably invented in Birmingham, not in Bombay; the balti certainly was.

    The Indian restaurant menu, in fact, is the latest stage in a long relationship that is at least as much cultural as culinary. In the University Church in Oxford is a marble memorial engraved in Latin. On one side of the plaque stands a conventional Roman-style Mourning Victory, but on the other is a gent with a Yul Brynner haircut holding a writing tablet inscribed in Sanskrit. In the pediment is a Brahminic bull. The Latin commemorates Sir William Jones, an English judge in Calcutta in the eighteenth century, who, without losing his own, absorbed so much of the local civilization that he discovered the links between the Indo-European languages.

    And there are older culinary links as well. You might not take to mulligatawny soup, but kedgeree is a pleasure; originally khitchri, an Indian confection of rice and beans, it became in the hands of Anglo-Indian cooks a mixture of rice, flaky fish (usually smoked haddock), sliced hard-boiled eggs, and cayenne pepper (with parsley to taste). Try it at home.

    And with it try Kendall-Jackson’s Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, a bright, refreshing white wine with a smoky center, from the Sonoma Valley of California, available in Minnesota at around fifteen dollars. Kendall-Jackson are the New Critics of the wine world. They seem to think their product should speak for itself, and so tell you little about its history or terroir, for that is what I gather advertising folk call “backstory” and the rest of us information that might lead to a rounded appreciation (those who are ignorant of history, after all, are condemned to repeat it). Though, come to think, it is perhaps this deliberate, fresh-eyed innocence that is itself the backstory of California. Anyway, if this wine speaks for itself, what it says is “Hi.” And the kedgeree has enough history for both. They make a marriage a good deal more pleasing than the concrete confection I fear is about to rise on the site of Château Floyd B. Olson. Eheu fugaces

  • Bite-sized Sensations

    What could be your key to fame and glory, the secret to a happy marriage, and the only way to make it through the entertaining season with grace and aplomb? Why, it’s the cocktail party, dahling. Libations aside, the best reason for hosting this type of gathering is that success doesn’t depend on a mass of properly roasted meat and a harmonious table. Scoring a hit is much easier when you can focus on the area your eaters care about most: the hors d’oeuvre.

    Think about it: How many times have you been enthralled by the appetizer portion of a restaurant menu, only to be bored and dismayed by the entrées? Those inspired small bites are seductive, for this is one area where chefs get to play a little, test some boundaries, and still leave you wanting more. Isn’t that also the recipe for a really great party?

    Hors d’oeuvre, that nightmare for proofreaders, is a French phrase meaning “outside of the work.” Originally an architect’s term for any structure not incorporated into the main building design, it somehow crept into the culinary lexicon as the appetizer served before the main dish. Similarly, an amuse-bouche, or “mouth amuser,” is an even smaller one-bite treat, usually offered in restaurants as a gift from the chef. Nearly every culture has some sort of noshing culture: Italians eat cured meats and marinated vegetables for their antipasto, Peruvians snack on tasty fried bocaditos, Russians put out a spread of zakuski to nibble while sharing vodka, and the Spanish have made an art of sampling tapas.

    Starters, as hors d’oeuvres are more popularly termed, can come stacked into tiny towers, rolled and stuffed, filled and folded; they include dips, spreads, salsas, and fondues. They can be foie-gras fussy or chip ’n’ dip simple. When considering what to serve for a party, it’s simple to hit upon the right combination: Know thy guest. Always consider those for whom you cook, and the rest will fall into place.

    A truly victorious hors d’oeuvre is one that speedily disappears from the tray. People may claim to love your Grape-Nuts Balls, but if you have thirty left over at the end of the night, it was a bomb; time to regroup. Champion appetizers tend to be simple but loaded with flavor; there may be much advance prep work, but the final construction should be easily executed, as you’ll have to keep refilling that tray. Bonus points go to the bites that don’t drip, fall apart on the way from tray to mouth, or require ladies to chomp down in unseemly nutcracker doll-like ways. Below are a few that fit the bill.

    Crostini: The versatile standby
    Arrange baguette slices on a sheet tray. Brush the rounds with olive oil and dash with sea salt. Place in a 400-degree oven for about ten minutes, or until nicely browned. Remove from oven and let cool. Smear with a mixture of goat cheese, mascarpone, and lemon zest, and perch a kalamata olive on top. Or top with Roquefort and drizzle with lavender honey. Or lay on a fat slice of ventresca tuna topped with a curl of roasted red pepper and one rosemary leaf. Or try a hunk of dark, dark chocolate. Or do whatever moves you.

    Cuke Cups: Fresh elegance
    Peel and slice a seedless cucumber into two-inch chunks. With a melon baller, scoop out the center of each, leaving a bottom. Dice sashimi-grade tuna into small cubes, toss with sesame oil, soy sauce, mirin, black sesame seeds, chives, and a touch of Sriracha. Spoon tuna into cuke cups and top with more chives.

    Bleu Cheese Chips: For the culinarily challenged
    Pile a bag of kettle-fried potato chips on a plate. Stir bleu cheese crumbles into crème fraîche to achieve a dressing consistency, and add a touch of Tabasco. Drizzle over the chips, top with more bleu cheese crumbles. No kidding.

    Deconstructed Guacamole: Built to impress
    Using toothpicks, skewer a half-cut cherry tomato with the flat side down. Then thread a sliver of white onion onto the skewer, a chunky square of avocado, a bit of peeled lime, and a flag of cilantro. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

    Root-beer Float Shooters: A sweet novelty
    Using shot glasses, pour a dash of root-beer schnapps, a half-tablespoon of ice cream, and fill with root beer. Cap with a dollop of whipped cream.

    Frico Crisps: The cracker alternative
    Line a sheet tray with parchment paper. Grate small piles of Parmigiano-Reggiano, about two inches around, onto paper, spaced apart. Sprinkle finely chopped sage onto each pile. Place in a 400-degree oven for 45 minutes until mounds are melty. Remove from the oven and let cool for a minute. Lift rounds from tray with a spatula and mold them around the back of a metal spoon to give a curve.

  • Suffer the Starch

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    lottalotta couscous

    Sometimes I get ahead of myself. Getting all wound up with the protein and veg portion of the meal, I end up rather conceding the starch.

    God, not another pot of mashed potatoes, boring and blah no matter what cheese/herb/sauce is added. Oh, another loaf of bread warmed in the oven? Sure. What else.

    The other night was ripe for pot roast, which I had on hand. I was quite content to use the spinach from the drawer, as it could be easily sauteed with sliced garlic.

    Luckily with no taters on hand, and a real rooting desire to stay in my slippers, I mined the pantry and came up with couscous. I love couscous, but it can also be bland and boring and sad when the end-of-dinner clearing includes a still heaping bowl.

    With an eye on keeping the supper simple, I felt that I ought to wing it. This, my friends, is my biggest fear: winging it and bombing. If I use a recipe and fail, I can always blame the test kitchens or some drunk copy editor who must have missed something in the proof-reading. But when I open my cupboards and throw in, it’s all on me and my ego.

    Funny enough, my biggest lesson learned has been how to build a dish. There’s a reason you sautee onions before garlic … garlic burns quickly and will keep burning as the onions slowly soften. This is just one of those tiny tiny key elements that I’ve soaked up over the years, like the fact that it’s better to start with the flavor and add the couscous rather than trying to add it after it’s been cooked. I’m happy to say that more than a few things have soaked in, which is maybe why you’re here reading this blah blah blah about my starch, because it worked for me and might still win you love and affection.

    Winging It Couscous
    (with the caveat that I have a pretty stocked pantry)

    1. In a medium sauce pot, melt about 3 Tablespoons butter.

    2. Chop up about 1/2 a yellow onion (mine was in a baggy in the fridge) and throw into the pot, stirring so often, until slightly translucent.

    3. Quarter about 1 1/2 cups of baby portobellas, throw in with the onions and stir about until the mushrooms become golden and soft.

    4. Toss in some freshly chopped thyme, salt and pepper.

    5. Add a little more than 1 cup of water and bring to a boil.

    6. Remove from heat and stir in 1 cup of couscous (mine is whole wheat). Cover the pot and wait for 5 minutes.

    7. Remove the lid and fluff couscous with a fork, stir in 1 hunk of truffle butter.
    Serve it up proudly.

  • Oktoberfestish

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    It’s true that I dream of opening a shop (or maybe just a booth at the Fair) that sells large, wearable pretzels. Simply loop around your neck and snack as you go. Sie sind toll!

    Maybe next year.

    This year, for a different kind of Oktoberfest where you might not find a boot-swilling lederhosen-clad hottie to hook up with (ahem), but you’ll clearly find better food, check out Oktoberfest at the Guthrie sponsored by vimlab.

    Bundle up and gather on the patio of Cue for some serious German vittles: beer braised brats, apple sauerkraut, butter spaetzle and onions, Bavarian potato salad, stew with Deutsches Weissbeir, warm cinnamon donuts, and big soft pretzels with three mustards. Plus beer, cider, DJ’s and horse drawn carriage rides … sehr gut.

  • Curry Up

    What’s a girl to do when she’s snacky for a quick samosa?

    Sure there’s the appeal of a buffet lunch at one of the all-stars … but then there’s the pre-schooler and his crankiness level and the crunch of time that doesn’t allow for full-service AND an on-time arrival at school.

    Thank goodness I was in Maple Grove. (NEVER thought I would write that.)

    Spying the modern logo for Curry Up, I turned into the strip mall parking lot. This little place has big intentions. Currently an extremly clean and cute grocery/take-out, they’re building out a restaurant in the back.

    The take-away counter is stocked with all sorts of goodies, including shake-shake bhel and batata vada. We had some lovely samosas with tangy chutney and the pre-schooler downed his mango drink in 2.2 seconds flat.

    Look for great things from these guys, more than a simple mom and pop, their website is all about education and lowering the barrier to Indian foods.

    If the close proximity to the new Hindu temple has anything to do with their success, Curry Up could see many new competitors, and Maple Grove could become a hotbed of samosa snacking. Please please please.

  • Salty Sweet

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    I have an undeniable craving for salty sweet. It may be more intense during certain times: when I feel defined as a chauffer, when I’ve been bickering with the hub, when the days are so crammed with everyone else’s business there’s no time to breathe.

    Salted caramels, a pretzel stick jammed into a pint of Sonny’s cinnamon ice cream, roasted veg tossed with maple butter and sage … Balance and centering, oddly found this weekend in Trader Joe’s Sea Salt Brownies. Not content with using a mere sprinkle of salt, these dense chocolate chunks are riddled with big, crunchy flakes of sea salt. Just when the richness is about to swing you over, a tangy cut of salt brings you back.

    As I write this I’m late for the day … but whatever.

  • Wet Weekend

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    The forecast may be dreary, but that’s nothing a little golden slice of warmth can’t cure.

    Going out this weekend? Venturing through a corn maze? You may want to stop by the sausage garage sale at 229 Upton Ave S in Bryn Mawr. This Saturday from 10am – 2pm, the Sausage Sisters will be closing out their inventory and hosting a romping good time, as always. Call 612-986-7298 for more info.

    Staying in to bake? While your stuff is cooling, read up on the best kind of food snobbery. Or order a truly Tony tee.