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  • Taters!

    She’s bumpy and oddly shaped, often times covered with a film of dirt. She prefers the dark, the underground areas. She’s like the slightly stinky kid in class who keeps to herself but gets all her work done on time. You think you know her—she’s simple and hard working, maybe a little bland. And then one day your eyes open and you see more than the poor ugly visage, you see the potential within. She’s no ugly groundflower. She’s silky and soft, complex, sexy and worldly and, dammit, you want to take her to the prom.

    Maybe it’s because we love the underdog, or a good Cinderella story. Whatever it is, the world’s love affair with the potato is long and far-reaching. According to the 5-A-Day cult, the potato is America’s favorite vegetable, followed distantly by empty-headed lettuce and onions. We most like to eat our spuds baked, mashed, and fried, in that order. Consuming around 126 pounds per person each year proves that for most of us, she’s a safety date. We’ll take our mashed with butter and salt, and our fries with a side of ketchup (or catsup, depending on your pedigree).

    But then there are those of us who can’t have casual meals. Our relationships have to go deeper, we need to explore all facets, to see if the plain girl has a secret drawer filled with kinky fun. Considering the beauty of ice-cold vodka, satiny vichyssoise, and the addictive chip, I’d say the potato has been asked to dance a few times.

    Like most late-bloomers, the potato’s road to popularity has been hard won. The Incas knew what they had: a hardy food source that could be grown in harsh conditions and used in many ways. Praying to potato gods, they used the tuber to measure units of time, heal broken legs, and prevent rheumatism. Having sacked the Incans for their treasures, the Spanish toted the potato back to Europe unaware of its true potential. In fact, the spud was ill-received by most Europeans. The misguided French believed them to cause leprosy, the Scots couldn’t find their mention in the Bible, and others saw their familial relation to deadly nightshade—and on that ground refused them as human sustenance. Sir Walter Raleigh, a potato cheerleader, gave some plants to Queen Elizabeth I, whose cooks threw away the ugly bulbous root section and prepared the stems and leaves. The result was horrendous, and the vegetable was banned from England for many years.

    But the Irish were more sensible—or perhaps desperate. Raleigh introduced the potato to Cork in the late 1500s, at a time when the country was war-torn and struggling to feed itself. Quickly becoming the darling of farmers, the potato’s popularity was supported by the sheer volume it produced. The potato yielded more nourishment per acre than any other Irish crop. By the 1800s, the potato was the national food, so much so that some of the poorer counties relied entirely on it for survival. By 1840, the potato had done its part to grow the country’s population to eight million. While some foresaw the dangers of so many people depending on one crop, nothing was done about it. The blight which caused the Irish Potato Famine wiped out potato crops for five years, beginning in 1845. Almost one million people died from starvation or disease, and another million left the country seeking a better life, by and large in the New World. They brought their potato recipes with them and forever changed a new nation.

    Back in the Old World, the potato was still seen as a food for prisoners or the poor. Then the humble spud found its European Prince Charming: Antoine August Parmentier of France. A prisoner of the Prussians in the Seven Years’ War, Parmentier was rationed three squares a day, which consisted solely of potatoes. He returned to his native land to find his countrymen starving, but incredibly still offended by the thought of eating potatoes. Like a Dr. Doolittle of the veggie world, he set about glamming up the image of our starchy girl. He resorted to shrewd PR tactics: He convinced Marie Antoinette to wear potato blossoms in her hair, which created a fashion stir. He stood guards around his potato crops by day, so that the peasants would steal them at night, thinking them precious enough to covet. He threw elaborate potato-themed dinners, which notables like Ben Franklin attended. Slowly but surely, the potato came up from the cellar and danced with other members of fine cuisine—in soups, gallettes, soufflés, aperitifs, and other dishes across the continent.

    There’s no doubt that the potato has again come into her heyday, with the food renaissance of the last few years. Tater Tot casserole may have been edgy and new at one time, but now seems pretty pedestrian, as we seek Yukon golds, purple Peruvians, Russian fingerlings, and ruby crescents—spuds that go way beyond the traditional Idaho russet. Due to its many versatile properties — waxy, fluffy, starchy — this tuber can be put to the test by many different chefs in dozens of ways. She’s out on the scene as tarragon potato puree, rosemary potato bread, potato dumplings on many street corners from every culture, as well as in the potato pancakes under some of the best caviar in town. Even good old mashed potatoes have recently been seen on menus as smashed, crushed, and smooshed with accompaniments from chipotles to curries to wasabi. Watch out, the girl has gone crazy! If you doubt that the potato is the “it” girl of the hour, just try to be an Atkins devotee, and see if you can avoid the belle of the ball. If you truly look at potatoes, you’ll see that, like delicate snowflakes, no two are ever exactly alike, each is unique in its beauty. Deservedly so for this Cinderella story, gone from reviled to revered over the last 400 years.

  • Live a little!

    Life is weirder than I thought. Take, for example, my new polyfiber leopard-skin car seat covers—a gift from my teenage almost-step-daughter, Britta, and her boyfriend, Ben. They thought themselves pretty clever with this bit of cheer (although they did very considerately leave behind the gift receipt “just in case,” ha, ha). But I’m not one to return a gift.

    I admit that at first I didn’t think the leopard skin was me. But then I thought, Hey, what the heck, just because I’m a prim elementary school teacher with three kids and three unofficial step kids and a hamster and a guinea pig who pees on me every time I hold him—does this mean I can’t drive around on fur seats? The truth is, I sort of relish the quizzical looks I get from friends and colleagues. A fellow shopper at the co-op recently glanced in my car window, gestured at the upholstery, and guffawed out loud—and she didn’t even know me. Who foresaw what adventure a little leopard skin could inspire?

    I’m even wondering if my bolder, wilder new image was behind a snap decision to book a trip to Florida to see my dad over the upcoming school break. You see, if you’re flexible and a little crazy, you can buy dirt-cheap flights online to Orlando. Mickey’s hometown is only an hour and a half from Apollo Beach, where my dad lives, and rental cars go for less than $30 a day in mouseland. All of which adds up to a low-budget chance to do what my dad has been asking me to do for the last two years: bring the kids to see him. But of course, the whole transaction required a little courage, a dose of optimism, and a Zen-like acceptance of the unknown.

    First of all, the web site informed me that the name of the airline and flight times would remain a mystery until, if, and when I made a final purchase. So what the heck, I said, as I typed in a credit card number and hit “send.” My kids haven’t seen their grandpa for four years—our last visit with him was amid the flurry of a cousin’s Detroit wedding. And while I’ve carried the burden of personal responsibility for this hole in my kids’ lives, it wasn’t until recently, when my son wept over “missing” the grandpa he doesn’t really know, that I decided maybe there are three better reasons to visit my dad than my own guilt: Sophie, Max, and Lillie.

    Well, my own guilt is pretty potent too, considering I haven’t made the trek to Florida for eight years, despite my dad’s frightening quadruple by-pass two years ago in December. I felt sick over being absent then, being the only child not standing by for his surgery, but it’s more complicated than it seems. At the time, my hair was on fire from the hell of my divorce, and I was careening around like a madwoman trying to put it out. Meanwhile my car didn’t have heat or an engine that started predictably, and drives to work were half-blind endeavors with frost growing on the inside of the windshield as fast as Sophie could scrape it off. I didn’t have the nickels and dimes to fix my car, let alone fly my flaming head to Florida.

    I think my dad understood my predicament, although he sounded tight and scared on the phone during those days leading up to the operation. I was scared too. I’d never really gotten to know my dad—not really—and now his mortality was breathing down my neck. I was afraid, too, of burdening him, afraid of the possibility that he might think my frost-bitten forest-fire of a life was a disaster beyond redemption, a failure, a father’s greatest disappointment. This was my fear, never mind the fact that the reason I don’t know my dad much better than Max does is because he and my mom split up when I was two years old and we have spent only a handful of years living in the same state.

    All this distance and unfamiliarity made the talks we had in the weeks following my dad’s surgery that much more tender. Having his chest pried apart left him more open, as if all those stitches couldn’t put Humpty Dumpty all the way back together again.

    Suddenly we were talking once or twice a week instead of once or twice a year, and when I told him I’d been worried about disappointing him, he gave a small, sad laugh and told me that was the silliest thing he’d ever heard. This was enough bonding to make us both cry before we slid back into our usual awkward passion of weather analysis.

    Which, by the way, is colder than usual in Florida at the moment, but he promises that’ll improve with my arrival. And I’m thinking ever since my leopard-skin seat covers, anything’s possible.

  • Don’t Panic, It’s Organic

    Enough tension-building hysteria. Yes! The polar ice-caps are melting! Yes! Migration habits are disturbed! Yes! The ozone layer has more holes in it than I-94 after the spring thaw! (Rim shot, please.)

    Environmentally, politically, socially, morally—we’re screwed. As humans, I believe this state of events is our natural habitat. That doesn’t make it right; it just is what it is. And I pledge to do my part. I hereby swear not to jump into my luxury mink-seated SUV, late to pick the kids up from school, and go barreling into traffic among those tiny, pious, Toyota Tsk’s, with half an eye on the road, as I yammer on to my stockbroker, making secret insider trades while cell-phone cancer eats through the last brain-stem inhibitor I have left that keeps me from shouting at the TV, Fat Elvis-style, whenever regularly scheduled programming is on.

    I have gladly quit smoking, my lawn is free of pesticides, and my ten-dollar-a-week Aqua Net habit is a thing of the past. But it’s not enough. Nor will it ever be. I subscribe to the notion that human lives could never ever be cruelty free. Even the best of us, or even the best parts of us, are woefully fallible. We are doomed to repeat the same selfish, sinful mistakes of our ancestors, only as each generation goes on, more stylishly, and more efficiently then ever before.

    Well, a clean heart, mind, and conscience might well begin with a clean colon, so I looked up a friend who espouses the virtues of clean living. For the sake of this story, I’ll call her Megan the Vegan Pagan. Her body is a temple and it only accepts certain offerings. She dragged me to the co-op, and lectured me on the error of my ways, which she diagnosed as partly dietary, but mostly a species of moral failure. In her worldview, eating clean is only somewhat about health. It’s more about feeling ethical. I decided to accept her counsel. After all, I’ve got my wellness to think about.

    As we first strolled into the meat aisle, Megan dismissively pointed out the free-range chicken, ostrich steaks, and fresh fish, stating that she “never eats food with a face.” “Even Gummi Bears?” I kidded. But this was no laughing matter. Did you know that Gummi Bears are made with gelatin? Which is derived from bone marrow? Me neither. Since Gummi bears are not on the generally accepted food pyramid, I decided this was not such a great loss.

    We went on to produce, where I couldn’t help but notice that, while the fruits and veggies resembled the fruits and veggies I usually buy, they were, on average, smaller, dirtier, and more expensive than what I’m used to. How European! Megan explained that these fruits were organically grown, without scientific hocus-pocus and therefore they looked like what real produce should look like, not like those hormone-injected Pamela Anderson cantaloupes like they have in the supermarket. (By this reasoning, if Moby ate hamburgers addled with Bovine Growth Hormone, he’d look like Vin Diesel.)

    In personal care products, I picked up a baking soda tooth powder, which tasted like penance for all my sins, but got my teeth so clean they squeaked when I smiled. Plus a natural deodorant crystal the size and texture of those ice formations that you get under your wheel well this time of year. It said on the back of the box that the rock had a street value of $5.99 and that it was a year’s supply, but I wasn’t sure if I should crush it and snort it, or cook it on a spoon and mainline it into the affected stinky areas.

    Later, over dinner and—what else?—organic red wine, Megan admitted to me that progress is the goal, not perfection, when it comes to living the virtuous life. She said new information comes out every day, and it would be impossible to stay on top of what was ethically acceptable to shop for and where to shop for it. I let this sink in. “You mean, I could be offending Mothership Earth right now and not even know it?” She nodded sadly, and then excused herself to have a smoke out on my back porch. I grabbed her pack of butts and shook them in the air, pointing out to her that this was a perfect example of human incongruity. She snatched the pale blue pack back and snapped: “They’re American Spirits. They don’t have any additives.”

  • “Are you my daddy?”

    In Porgy and Bess, caddish Sportin’ Life lures Bess from virtuous Porgy by crooning “the things that you’re liable to read in the Bible, well, it ain’t necessarily so.” Sportin’ Life could just as easily have been talking about the assumption that most men make—that their children are really their children. Many times, well, it just ain’t necessarily so.

    According to the American Association of Blood Banks, 30 percent of men taking paternity tests in 2000 were not the biological fathers of their children. And we are not just talking about Joe Six-pack single men, either. Minneapolis family attorney Nancy Berg reports that she has married clients from Edina who get the rude surprise of a tomcat from the cheating side of town. Berg says, “Married men can and do find themselves paying for kids that are not their biological offspring.”

    Consider the story of Texas engineer Morgan Wise. His wife Wanda gave birth to four children during the marriage, one of which had cystic fibrosis. After the divorce, Wise took a blood test to find out which cystic fibrosis gene he carried and, to his surprise, found that he did not carry the gene at all. Since both parents must be carriers for a child to inherit the gene, Wise could not possibly be the father of that child. Later tests confirmed that only one of Wanda’s four children were his. (The Texas courts not only rejected his request to reduce his child support payments; Wise was later forbidden to have contact with any of the children because he violated a court order by telling them the truth about their parentage.)

    Patrick McCarthy, a New Jersey man who discovered after his divorce that his 14-year-old daughter was fathered by another man, founded New Jersey Citizens Against Paternity Fraud. His organization convinced New Jersey Assemblyman Neil Cohen to sponsor legislation allowing men to use DNA tests to disprove paternity and end financial support.

    In both cases, where was the biological father? Laughing all the way to the bank. Not surprisingly, many women’s groups and child advocates are fighting the New Jersey effort every step of the way. A National Center for Youth Law staff lawyer in Oakland, California says, “Families are much more than biology.”

    Until now, Minnesota judges believed that the “child’s best interests” trumped biology nearly every time. St. Paul’s Lionel Suggs and lawyer John Westrick, however, recently convinced the Minnesota Court of Appeals that it ain’t necessarily so. Suggs’ girlfriend had duped him into believing that he had fathered her child. After the child was born, Suggs’ found out through a DNA test that, as Michael Jackson sang in “Billie Jean,” that the kid was not his son. Ramsey County judge Joanne Smith said the “best interests of the child” required keeping Suggs on the child support hook. The appellate court begged to differ, making it clear that biology, not the child’s best interest, would be (in the words of Suggs’ attorney) the “trump card.” At least as far as that goes, for Lionel Suggs.

    According to family law guru Berg, Turner v. Suggs has taken a “man’s issue” and used it to unleash a Pandora’s box of clashing policy issues. “Ever since Genesis, men have wondered, Is the kid really mine? And ever since Genesis, all women have secretly hoped and prayed that the baby looks at least a little like the father because they know how men think. Families that would have rolled along reasonably happy and content are being torn up by information that, in an earlier time, would not have seen the light of day.”

    Does that mean that biological fathers should evade child support just because another man is available? Berg is torn. “I do not think we should start down a road that could compromise family relationships from the very beginning.”

    Why not make paternity testing a routine part of the birthing process, just like we routinely test for sickle cell and myriad other things? For most couples, there will not be any surprises. And for those who find out that it ain’t necessarily so, why not get that information out in the open and make sure the real papa helps to pay the bills?

  • Segue to the Future

    Members of the baby boom generation may not be getting the hover cars or personal helicopters that the futurists of their youth forecasted, but it appears they will have a self-balancing, battery-powered two-wheel scooter. As the focus of one of the biggest hype campaigns in recent memory, the Segway scooter is slowly being rolled out to U.S. consumers at $5,000 a pop.

    The Twin Cities’ first Segway was sold and delivered in January to young urbanites Tod Lane and Nell Rueckl after Tod entered an essay contest for the privilege of being an “early adopter.” The two also received a Willie Wonkaesque tour of inventor Dean Kamen’s factory in New Hampshire. The Whittier couple are exactly the kind of product evangelists that marketers dream about: Tod reeled off statistics and facts about the machine’s masterful engineering, and Nell, who uses the Segway to commute to her Northeast Minneapolis massage studio, talked about how graceful she feels, whirring quietly down Nicollet Mall.

    Its quiet efficiency may be the Segway’s undoing. For safety concerns, San Francisco has banned the two-wheeler from its sidewalks even before the device really arrived there. “Ever since that came out about San Francisco, I’ve been stressed out, thinking, ‘Oh no, I need to make friends on the sidewalk, and on the street, be nice to them,’” said Nell. “I don’t want to be zooming around and scaring people.”

    Although the Segway can go as fast as 12 miles per hour, Tod said that some of the safety concerns about the Segway on sidewalks are misguided, because unlike bikes, which are already banned from most walks, the Segway doesn’t need to be moving forward to balance upright. “You can ride this thing more slowly than you could comfortably walk, or you can easily ride alongside someone who is walking and carry on a conversation,” he said.

    Despite this tag-team sales job, The Rake was still skeptical, until we had a chance to try it out. There is just no getting around it: This thing is cool! You step up on the footpad (“Aircraft-grade aluminum,” said Tod), hang on to the handlebars, and the thing balances itself. A slight lean forward and the Segway begins to creep ahead; stand up straight, and it stops. Turn the grip on the left handlebar and the thing spins around. It’s like you’re standing atop Harry Potter’s magic lawn fertilizer. Four stars—our highest recommenda-tion!—Dan Gilchrist

  • Nest Brown

    Local paint companies will tell you that business has been booming for a couple years now. Crazy times bring out the nesting instinct in people, and when that happens, they notice how badly the walls could use a fresh coat. When they reach for a gallon of flat interior latex, they typically don’t reach for “blue.” They reach for “Mountain Mist” or “Riviera.”

    I too recently found myself wandering the netherland between a paint color and its name, the little chapbook of samples fanned out against my walls. I am both seduced and vexed by “Zuni Gold” and “Montana Agate.” As I stare at my white walls (“Washed Sand”?), eyeballing little swatches of increasingly deeper shades with the most achingly beautiful names, my imagination begins to fatigue from overuse. Is it “Warm Sienna” I like, or the image the words conjure of me hanging out in some sun-drenched Tuscan villa? I’m not sure how I feel about “Fresh Clay.” “Passion Blue?” Not in my experience. And why am I drawn so powerfully to “Cherry Wine”?

    To soothe my overwrought gray matter (“Dove”?) I approached Tami Ridgway, a pragmatic “Cool Hand Blue” kind of person. Ridgway is a stylist at Valspar Corporation. She and a crew of other marketing folk write the poetry of paint names. “We receive colors in a palette, from 30 to 250 colors to a palette,” she explained. “We’re influenced by social, fashion, and lifestyle trends. We hope to evoke a positive response from the name, and at the same time prompt a mental image that will help the consumer remember the color. This isn’t usually a planned strategy. Of course some of the palettes have themes—historic, natural, or global—so that gives us a direction.” Sounds easy, until you fetch up against 137 variations of white that all need a catchy handle.

    What do the bards of Valspar do when they hit that inevitable patch of writer’s block? Ridgway said, “Whatever it takes. Books, magazines, maps. Sometimes one of us has just returned from vacation (‘Rice Field Green’). Sometimes names come from our different backgrounds.” She said their diverse interests—there’s a musician, an engineer, and a diver on the crew—all contribute to the process.

    Bonnie Rohow, a color consultant with Abbott Paint and Carpet in St. Paul, informed me that there are 10 million colors (registered, with a specific recipe) and thus 10 million distinct color names. I imagine this massive opus locked away in a vault. “Color names are never repeated. They are sometimes changed, though,” she said, hinting that changing times sometimes require it. “‘Indian Red’ and ‘Tobacco Brown’ both became variations of chestnut.”

    While there have been a few like these that have fallen from grace, color names in general are a huge boon to the consumer paint industry. Rohow remembered that Benjamin Moore paints used to be identified by numbers. Sales increased dramatically when they started using evocative, descriptive names. (I tested Rohow’s expertise by asking her to guess what color “Crazy For You” might be. She thought for a moment, and speculated “a sugary pink,” which was dead right.)

    The tried-and-true approach is to look to food for inspiration. Ridgway said this is often the easiest way, because of the powerful sensory associations people have, courtesy of their taste buds. “That, or we were hungry that day,” she said. “I’m actually tired of food-related names.” A quick survey of the major paint stores in the area showed there is still a heaping helping of food-inspired names. In fact, Benjamin Moore’s 2003 calendar serves up paint in various table settings—fried eggs with yolks made of “Sunny Side Up” yellow, a south-of-the-border spread with a bowl of “Guacamole” green, and a tall “Milk Shake,” an off-white dribble tracing down the side of the fluted glass.

    I tried a few color names out on Tami Ridgway—names inspired by my own recent experiences: “Crashing Computer Screen Blue,” “Boxed Wine,” and “Serious Frostbite.” These met with a tepid (“Dishwater”?) response from Ridgway. “We try to be positive,” she said with a smile. —Sarah Barker

  • The Needle & the Damage Undone

    In between the yarn-stuffed aisles there were a half-dozen customers fretting over supplies for their projects. Mostly, they were exactly the kind of people you would expect to see at Depth of Field, a Minneapolis knitting store: older women choosing needles for baby blankets and rifling through patterns for cardigans. And then there was Anne Kimball. Kimball, who is young and urban and kind of punky, does not seem like the kind of person who would be buying supplies in a knitting store. She seems like the kind of person who would be buying Camus instead of cashmere.

    Kimball is 28. She started knitting five years ago when she found some yarn and needles at her mom’s house. She’s been hooked ever since, and she teaches her friends the craft whenever she has a chance. “I know a lot of people who do it as a stress reliever, but I have one friend who started knitting because she was trying to quit smoking,” she said. “It gave her something to do with her hands.”

    Kimball and her friends aren’t freaks. Knitting has suddenly and unexpectedly become cool. According to the Craft Yarn Council of America, more than three million people began knitting or crocheting between 1994 and 2000. More than half of them were under the age of 35.

    Doris Wickstrom, a staff member at Depth of Field who teaches a beginning knitting class, isn’t surprised. “We had a big group of students from St. Thomas, and it went through the dorms at Augsburg,” she said. While most young knitters favor traditional projects like hats, scarves, and sweaters, Wickstrom said that updated patterns and novelty yarns keep young knitters coming back. “People like it because it’s so portable,” Wickstrom pointed out. “They can be working on a project on the bus, in the waiting room at the doctor’s office, or in front of the TV.”

    The trend isn’t limited to young women. Increasing numbers of men are also taking up the needles. Chris Wernimont, who teaches math at Anwatin Middle School in Minneapolis, began knitting in 1996, when he was 20. He thinks it’s catching because it’s both creative and relatively easy. “Knitting is accessible—it doesn’t require a lot of skill or many tools, but people can still make something.”

    Kimball has a more complex theory about knitting’s appeal. “I think that, as everything becomes more mass-merchandised, people want something that’s unique,” she said. “It’s a way for people to make something by hand—and even design it themselves—so they can feel like it’s really their own.” That may not qualify as a revolutionary act against commercialism and anomie, she conceded. Then again, maybe it does. She ran her hand sensuously over a shelf of earth-toned skeins. Revolution, they say, starts at home.—Erin Peterson

  • A Feed Through the Slot

    Last fall, when I signed my daughter up for a season in St. Louis Park’s Mite league, one of the many expenses was a $200 check, above and beyond the association fees and equipment rental. It was a security deposit against the volunteer hours required of every parent with a child in the hockey program. Some lucky parent might get to run the association website. Some might coach or manage a team. Most will do their time in the venerable concession stand.

    Hockey is expensive. Year-round indoor ice costs a pretty penny. Decent helmets can run a C-note, good skates even more. Pneumatic goalie pads go for $600 plus. A magistrate who works several counties in southern Minnesota recently noted that hockey fees have become a hotly contested line item in many divorce settlements.

    To keep a lid on costs and preserve access for families left out of the Bush tax cut, most youth hockey associations depend on cash flow from the concession stand. So when the Gastronomer returned to work in food service, a field in which he had not been employed since the late 80s, it was with charitable motives.

    In fact, youth hockey is a charity. Most hockey associations are organized as non-profits. Might a shift behind the counter be approached with the Christian humility of, say, serving Thanksgiving dinner at the homeless shelter? No comparison. The average hockey player smells far worse and demands much more than the average panhandler. And parent volunteers have been known to combine the roles of benefactor and beneficiary. The concession stand at Columbia Arena in Fridley (of Mighty Ducks fame) took $11,000 in shrink last year, according to a worker there. Arena staff have now taken over most operations.

    Even so, concession workers in St. Louis Park have it pretty good. The rinks are in a separate part of the Rec Center, and the stand is in the heated section of the building. What little breezer skank does waft in can be easily overpowered by running a few orders of chicken strips through the deep fryer. Kids as young as 15 are allowed to work the stand, so St. Louis Park has invested in a low-liability deep fryer minus the wire baskets in open pools of boiling oil. It faintly resembles a small front-loading washer, with a little hinged drawer on the front to deposit frozen food. Set the timer and hot, crispy stuff comes down a chute on the side, ready to serve. Low prices bring a steady demand to the counter during games and practices: hot dog $1.50, chips $.75, slapshot special (hot dog, chips, and soda) $2.50. And it’s easy to work the till, with the 501(c)3 status ending every transaction in round, tax-free numbers.

    The other night, the fryer stopped working. It accepted deposits of new food, but released only partial orders, and then none at all. I turned the heater off and gave it some time to cool down. When I opened the access door to take a look . . . well, this is a family magazine, so I just can’t tell you what I found.

    “We’re out of fried food,” I informed the cashier. “The morning shift is gonna have to clean this thing.”—Joe Pastoor

  • The Postmodern Itinerant

    Mark Backman is an infuriatingly calm 25-year-old whose life has direction, financial stability, and purpose. Yet he has no home, nor does he have any idea where he’s going to be next February. His line of work can be dangerous and frequently takes him to distant states and lands. He embarks on fascinating adventures and then maddeningly downplays them, even dismissing construction work in Antarctica as merely a job. When his interviewer detects enthusiasm toward any particular topic, a follow-up question quickly kills any potential lead. You can take the northern Minnesota boy out of northern Minnesota, but you’ll never get him to stop punctuating every sentence with “I guess” or the even vaguer “I s’pose.”

    Backman, as he’ll tell you, is just a blue-collar guy. He dropped out of the University of Minnesota after a year, when the fix-it genes inherited on the paternal side insisted he was better suited to heavy work than head work. He enrolled in the College of Oceaneering in California and graduated at the top of his class with a degree in commercial diving, completed his apprenticeship in New Orleans, and dove everywhere else. He was almost killed when a mudslide buried him during a routine dredging of a riverboat casino in Missouri. He was nearly sucked down a drain in New Mexico, when the plug came out of a 3.5 million gallon underground reservoir he was helping repair. When his life flashes before his eyes, Backman does all he can to survive and then, misfortune averted, simply returns to work.

    Mishaps aside, Backman likes underwater welding. Yet he despises politics of any kind, and underwater welders, who have a closely-knit association of just 5,000 members nationwide, can be as catty as an old ladies’ social club. So he retired. He moved into construction, and what better place to avoid the rat race and the bickering old crew than Antarctica?

    What is it like building a science station on the polar cap during the southern hemisphere’s brutal winter? When the average daily temp is around 40 below, but can dip as low as 140 degrees below zero? Not so bad, Backman insists. A few extra layers is all anyone needs, and if the chill gets to be too much, the thought of the $2 drinks at the camp’s one-and-only local will keep a person moving. Until, that is, you find yourself falling into the ultimately unavoidable lethargy that encroaches when a person never sees the sun. When that happens, Backman says, all plans are abandoned. The predicted 15 pounds creep on. You dream of leaving and never returning. The mind erases the memories of the despised rat race and its incessant politics.

    Until you return to them. Which is why Backman is seriously considering heading south to Antarctica for a second year. After that, it might be hard for him to ever go north again. “Veteran South Pole construction workers say you do the first year for the experience and the second year for the money,” he says, his green eyes showing a hint of the slow smile spreading across his face. “After that it’s because you don’t fit in anywhere else.” —Katie Quirk

  • from Baghdad: A Minnesotan in Iraq

    We were in the Al-Amariya bomb shelter, listening to the guide’s report that 400 women and children were incinerated here when U.S. “smart bombs” found their way into the structure. The men and boys had stayed home to prevent looting of their houses. I was standing next to Ahmed, the friendly, ever cheerful professor of veterinary science at Baghdad University, who led us from one site and meeting to the next. And I asked him whether it was only a bomb shelter (because it looked to some in our group like a communications center, and perhaps at one time had been one). He became agitated and his face took on a grim expression. He told me that relatives of his had died in the shelter. As sympathetically as I could, I said that our government had admitted it was a mistake. I had difficulty believing they would deliberately bomb an installation they knew to be a bomb shelter. “Why not?” he said. “Your government deliberately bombed and destroyed the bridge over the Tigris River at a time they knew people and vehicles would be crossing it.”

    As our visit to the shelter was ending, a congenial young reporter from Austrian Radio wanted to interview me. He asked me to comment on the fear of many Austrians—that if Saddam Hussein were not deposed he could become another Hitler. Saddam has the psychological capability to emulate Hitler, I said. But he lacks not only the geopolitical capability, given the fractious Middle East, but also the economic and military capability, which was lost in the Gulf War and the resulting sanctions and controls.

    During the first day of the conference, I had lunch beside the Tigris, with several professors of veterinary medicine. Two splendid Arabian horses were being saddled up in a nearby pasture, and behind them in the distance were the twin stacks of the city’s electric power plant. I asked what would happen if the plant were destroyed—as it surely would be—when the bombs started falling again. They said it would be like 1991: For weeks if not months, residents would have to use candles, do without refrigeration and flush toilets, and get their water from the polluted river.

    During a trip to ancient Babylon the next day, a professor of architecture said that all Arabs share the dream of an Arab nation that includes all the Arab states, and that Saddam Hussein is the only leader still alive who genuinely represents that dream. I said it seemed to me an unrealistic goal—how could those independent states ever agree on a leader or a central government? He replied that it need not be a nation, but perhaps something like the European Union. If the Europeans can have such a union, why not the Arabs?

    On our last day in Iraq, six of us visited the Um-Al-Maarak (“Mother of All Battles”) mosque in the outskirts of Baghdad. It is a gleaming gem in blue and white, surrounded by inviting pools and walkways. It was built by Saddam Hussein, and is the model for an enormous mosque under construction, to be called the Saddam Mosque. It is intended to be the largest in the world. We were told that its grounds form a map of all the Arab countries from Morocco to Saudi Arabia, visible from above.

    I thought that finally I understood the “problem of Iraq.” History is repeating itself, but on a much larger scale. At the end of World War I, the Ottoman Turks were driven out of the Middle East by tribes of the Arabian peninsula assisted by British soldiers, one of whom was Colonel T. E. Lawrence (“Lawrence of Arabia”), who supported a “pan-Arabic” union of the tribes. When Lawrence asked his superiors to supply the Arabs with cannons for use against the Turks, his request was rejected for fear that with such armaments the Arabs could become too powerful to manipulate. Today, the United States and various other western countries wish to unseat Saddam Hussein because they fear that he or some leader inspired by his example will one day establish a union of Arab states that will control all the resources of member states, especially the oil, and thus become a powerful economic competitor to the western nations and their various unions and alliances.

    A more recent history seems to be repeating itself, too. To justify the Vietnam war, our government demonized Ho Chi Minh, leader of the movement to unify Vietnam. The U.S. argued that the result of inaction would be the domino-like collapse of the countries of Southeast Asia, and maybe even a Chinese invasion of our country (by sea, in their navy of what were then mostly junks?). Today, our government demonizes Saddam Hussein, and insists that he must be removed to protect us from anthrax and nerve gas (to be delivered in his 300 km-range rockets?).

    It was shocking to learn that Eisenhower, perhaps our most honest president, had said that the Vietnam war was really about the “tin, tungsten, and rubber” of Southeast Asia. Today we are more cynical. We’re not surprised when our commentators generally agree that a principal aim is to insure that the vast oil reserves of Iraq remain available at acceptable prices. That doesn’t mean we have to assent. A common theme of the anti-Vietnam-war movement was that a Pax Americana—the U.S. as policeman of the world—was neither acceptable nor possible, and most Americans agreed. Today, our government maintains that a Pax Americana is both viable and right—whether the United Nations concurs or not. An alarming number of our fellow citizens seem to agree.—Wade Savage

    Wade Savage