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  • Nuke World Order

    After the Coke bottle, the most enduring icon of the 20th century might be the mushroom cloud. Unlocking the secrets of the atom is science’s crowning achievement, equating matter with energy, and discovering a cheap and limitless source of power. On the other hand, it represents the all-too-possible destruction of life as we know it on Planet Earth. Needless to say, there are some issues to be worked out here. Since the dawn of the nuclear age, artists have been hard at work trying to make sense of the paradox. And as we all know, the end of the Cold War certainly didn’t moot the process. If anything, the specter of “rogue states” developing nuclear capabilities is much scarier than anything during the Soviet era—at least if you believe the rhetoric these days. Two events this month look at different sides of the nuclear question: Park Square Theater’s staging of the play Copenhagen, opening January 8, and Oak Street Cinema’s film and lecture series “Radioactive Reels,” running Tuesdays through January.

    Copenhagen, Michael Frayn’s Tony-winning drama about the earliest days of the nuclear age, is a cerebral snapshot of a real-life meeting in October 1941 between the German physicist Werner Heisenberg and his Danish mentor Niels Bohr.

    It was the height of the Nazi regime, and the two men were politically opposed, though still friendly. Whatever Heisenberg came to discuss shattered that friendship, and may even have kept the Nazis from winning World War Two. (Heisenberg’s miscalculation of how much uranium was needed is cited as a major reason the Nazis didn’t develop such a weapon.) What really happened? The simplest explanation is that Heisenberg merely wanted scientific advice, and that Bohr, a Jew, broke off their relationship when he realized his former student wanted to give Hitler nuclear weapons. But there are other possibilities, many suggested by Heisenberg himself after the war.

    In the play, Heisenberg claims he wanted to know whether the Americans were trying to build a bomb, so he’d know whether Germany should put the enormous resources required into its own effort. In real life, Heisenberg went even further, claiming in 1956 that his intention was to get Bohr to work with him in actively suppressing A-bomb projects by either side. That statement prompted Bohr to write an angry letter with the accusation that “under your leadership, everything was being done in Germany to develop atomic weapons.” It was never sent, and only released by the Bohr family after Copenhagen’s success.

    Heisenberg stuck to his claims, but historians discounted them until the 1993 publication of the so-called “Farm Hall transcripts,” which prompted the writing of Copenhagen. British spies secretly recorded Heisenberg’s conversations with other German scientists while they were prisoners of war. In the transcripts, Heisenberg seems to suggest that he deliberately delayed the German bomb project. Was that a moral choice, or a convenient revision of his past to better fit the post-Nazi world? Or even a white lie to salvage his pride at failing where the Americans had succeeded?

    It’s a murky historical question befitting the man most famous for formulating the Uncertainty Principle. Frayn makes the most of that metaphor, framing the moral questions of the play in terms of quantum physics. You don’t need a complete grasp of the science to understand the ethical issues, but Frayn takes admirable care to explain as much as he can in layman’s terms. Just as Heisenberg showed that the act of observing an object is inevitably obscured by the act of observation itself, Copenhagen suggests that truth is never completely knowable because of the lies we tell, both to ourselves and others.

    The place of nuclear power in popular culture has also been, in its way, constantly shifting, and governed by our growing understanding of its dangers, our willingness (or lack of it) to face the issue, and our vacillating confidence in the powers that be.

    In the years immediately after Hiroshima, nuclear energy was treated as a miracle of science, with an almost charming naiveté—we were supposed to take the futurists seriously when they predicted atom-powered toasters. Still, the destructive potential of atom-splitting was never too far off in the wings, psychologically speaking. In the fantastic plots of pulp fiction, nuclear power took over as the primary device to explain an otherwise outlandish plot, just as electricity had animated Frankenstein’s monster in Mary Shelley’s 1816 novel. In popular films of the 50s, the horrible effects of radiation were exaggerated, spawning gigantic monsters in movies like Them! and Godzilla—simultaneously acknowledging our fears and putting them in a form ludicrous enough to handle. (These days, radioactivity’s mantle as a great source of monstrous mutation has been commandeered by genetics-meddling, as the most recent incarnation of Spider-Man will tell you.)

    Soon enough, and thanks to the increasingly frigid Cold War, nukes were depicted almost entirely in nightmare terms. In addition to the monster movies, the early 60s spawned a number of earnest Cold War thrillers like Henry Fonda’s Fail-Safe, a nightmare scenario in which the U.S. accidentally nukes Moscow, prompting the president to deliberately sacrifice New York to prevent full-scale nuclear war. The reigning champion of Armageddon satire, 1964’s Dr. Strangelove, had the same artistic aim despite the addition of a brilliant sense of humor.

    But then even the satirical impulse dried up. Some writers have claimed that the Cuban Missile Crisis was so unsettling that the American public would no longer accept stories overtly depicting nuclear destruction, and there may be some truth to that—for 15 years after Strangelove, the most high-profile nuclear-themed films were the mostly ridiculous Planet of the Apes movies.

    Realism in nuke movies didn’t make a comeback until the socially conscious 1970s, most strikingly with 1979’s The China Syndrome, a harrowing thriller about a catastrophic near-meltdown at a nuclear power plant. By some cosmic coincidence, it debuted just a few days before the worst nuclear accident in U.S. history, the catastrophic near-meltdown at Three Mile Island in Pennsylvania. The ensuing psychic jolt stuck in the national consciousness for a long time. The number of nuclear-themed novels and movies rose steadily through the 1980s, probably influenced by Reagan-era nuclear proliferation and Chernobyl in 1986. More importantly, there was a noticeable shift in tone. The children of China Syndrome—The Day After, Testament, Threads—dared to depict the post-Apocalyptic nuclear winter with terrifying realism. And, mirroring the growth of the punk movement, science fiction became much more nihilistic. The mutant monster of the 50s always had its vulnerabilities, a scourge that could be permanently defeated. But by the time of The Terminator, WarGames, and Silkwood, even the popcorn thrillers acknowledged that nuclear war meant total destruction. The only mystery that remained—as it has always remained—was just how we were going to figure our way out of this dilemma. Having split the atom once, are we ever going to be sure the chain reaction has stopped?

  • Life in a Northern Town

    It’s the world’s largest freshwater port. But when the steel, timber, and frozen pizza industries go to hell, the city is screwed. Or maybe not. How did our favorite northern town go from being “the state’s largest white ghetto” to being its most popular destination? It’s all about converting to the post-industrial future that awaits us all—the global tourist economy.


    Today, the quintessential symbol of Duluth may not be the raw beauty and power of Lake Superior, or even the beloved Aerial Lift Bridge, but instead the rather humble rust-colored ore boat afloat on Superior’s waters in the lift bridge’s shadow. The SS William A. Irvin is a retired 610-foot ore boat that sailed for U.S. Steel from 1938 to 1978, carrying iron ore and coal to Great Lakes ports. In 1986 the Irvin became a tourist attraction in the Duluth harbor, and is now visited by thousands of people every year.

    The Irvin has become a figurehead of Duluth’s waterfront, but it could also be called a figurehead of Duluth’s successful conversion from a swarthy industrial port town to a diversified economy with a heavy emphasis on tourist dollars. “We’re both a tourist attraction and a working city,” says Ken Bueheler, executive director of the Lake Superior Railroad Museum at the downtown depot. “I think most people get that now. We are both.”

    In order to fully appreciate the significance of the Irvin’s perennially fresh paint and long lines during the high season, you have to understand how much likelier it once seemed that any retired ore boat docked in the Duluth harbor would have rusted itself away to oblivion right along with the blighted economy and waning population of a dying city.

    Back in the summer of 1974, my mother was packing my sisters and me and the family dog into the old Impala for the move from Duluth to the wild west. My dad and his sister were simultaneously dumping my great aunt’s North Shore log home (with stone fireplace on a wooded lot near the Lester River) for a paltry $15,000. They were glad to be rid of it. And around that same time—an era of scarring economic hardship for the hilly city—another fed up Duluthian was paying for the installation of a billboard that begged: “Will the last person to leave Duluth please turn out the lights?” That dismal billboard might have been my final view of the city, as the Aerial Bridge and the gritty Duluth-Superior harbor disappeared behind the rising southbound slope of Interstate 35 at the Cody Street exit.

    As a West End girl, my view of Duluth was necessarily impoverished. But my mother’s weekly drives along London Road to “look at the mansions” made it clear even to a child that somewhere along the line there had been real wealth in Duluth. In the late 1800s, when the timber, steel, shipping, and railroad industries that put Duluth on the map were in their full glory, Duluth boasted the highest concentration of millionaires per capita of any city in the country. The 1970s and 80s, however, saw brutal setbacks in the steel, mining, and timber industries, and as the economy bottomed out, Duluth’s high school graduates flocked away en masse and thrust the population into deep decline.

    In recent years, though, the city has been transforming itself. A tedious battle over the expansion of I-35 through downtown finally gave way to a successful freeway expansion that included the use of surplus funds to re-brick the downtown streets and build a boardwalk along the shore. These days, the dozens of new hotels, resorts, restaurants, and shops—and of course the William A. Irvin—in Canal Park and along the North Shore suggest that people really love to stay in Duluth.

    And yet the city’s latest tourist attraction—the Duluth Aquarium—ran into trouble within a year of opening its doors, and is still scrambling to concoct a viable plan for reopening in the spring. Some wonder: Is this snow-belt city of ore boats, paper mills, and arctic weather really sustainable as a tourist town?

  • Wired for Success?

    I suppose I’d be a better writer if I could hold my liquor. After all, plenty of U.S. winners of the Nobel Prize for literature—from Sinclair Lewis to William Faulkner to Eugene O’Neill to Ernest Hemingway—were friendly with the bottle. Liquor as a literary lubricant dates back to the authors of the U.S. Constitution. According to Uncle John’s Bathroom Reader, the U.S. National Constitution Center discovered material in 1992 that drives the point home: “One document that survived is the booze bill for the celebration party thrown two days before the U.S. Constitution was signed on Sept. 17, 1787. According to the bill, the 55 people at the party drank 54 bottles of Madeira, 60 bottles of claret, eight bottles of whisky, 22 bottles of port, eight bottles of cider, 12 bottles of beer and seven large bowls of alcoholic punch.”

    This is terrifically bad news for lightweights with a penchant for the pen. Try as I might, I just can’t get my writing gene and my drinking gene properly connected. When I’m hemmed in by deadlines, a glass of wine takes the edge off just enough to scoot me from the keyboard to the couch. A second or third glass starts me into a frenzied bout of chatting and a spark of sexiness that ends abruptly with sudden-onset narcolepsy. Sorry to say, I’m a much better writer (and a livelier date) on the single-drink plan.
    Truth is, since I’m rather chronically underslept, my greatest hope of high achievement may lie not in rum but in Ritalin. It seems the controversial attention deficit drug is now being used by college students who want to stay awake for finals and research papers.

    A study of Ritalin abuse on campus, by Dr. Eric Heiligenstein at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, found that one out of every five students he interviewed had used Ritalin or similar drugs without being diagnosed with Attention Deficit Disorder—the typical reason people are prescribed the hefty stimulant.

    Whatever happened to No-Doz? Or even coffee? They’ve been bested, it seems. Ritalin is said to have the power not only to keep you awake, but to increase your concentration and focus, as well.

    Student.com reports that a single Ritalin pill commonly sells in the dorms for $5 to $10. If the aim is to get high and forget about the finals, then illegal users may crush it into a powder and snort it, or smoke it, or even mix it with a liquid and inject it.

    Not surprisingly, the effects of Ritalin on students without attention disorders have not been evaluated (particularly in its crushed and injected forms). But good old common sense is sufficient to suggest that anything in the wrong quantity or combination can be dangerous—or deadly.

    Overall abuse of prescription drugs is an increasingly common problem for college and high-school students across the country, and federal drug officials say Ritalin is among the top controlled prescription drugs reported stolen in the United States.

    The fact is that the United States consumes 90 percent of the world’s Ritalin, and production of Ritalin is up 700 percent since 1990. An estimated 6 million American youngsters take Ritalin or another drug for ADHD. Ten to 12 percent of all boys between the ages of 6 and 14 in the United States have been diagnosed as having ADD.

    Now, none of this means that the next burning trend will be Ritalin abuse among writers with low tolerance for alcohol, but then again, who would have predicted Ritalin for toddlers? Even those in the very middle of the Ritalin debate were disturbed by a recent Journal of the American Medical Association article showing the number of Ritalin prescriptions were exploding for toddlers as young as two, for alleged ADHD.

    Ritalin for toddlers can only underscore the central question of exactly how much activity, distractibility, and impulsivity constitutes a “disorder” in children under five, or children in general. Show me a two-year-old without “ADHD symptoms” and I’ll predict she’s asleep.

    Just like me after two glasses of wine. Which leads me to believe that perhaps it’s not Ritalin we all need, but more naps. Granted, frequent napping is not, as far as I know, a trait widely shared by my literary heroes, but nevertheless I’m happy to test the theory myself… just as soon as I get myself another cup of coffee and polish off my deadlines.

  • Dashing Down the Aisle

    Forget road rage. I love my car. It is my pod of sanity. A micro-community I control. Yes, I understand when I slide behind the wheel and I survey all that is out in the great beyond through my windshield that I have no control of what goes on out there. Traffic jams, crazy drivers, construction. These things are to be expected. Inside my car, the music is perfect. My seat is positioned exactly for me. The temperature, ideal. Driving in my car is often the only quiet time I get during the week. The problems start when I have to get out of my car to pilot a smaller vehicle through an obstacle course where there is no right of way. There are no rules. There are no state troopers keeping an eagle eye for wrongdoers. There is no limit on blood alcohol level, no rearview mirrors, and no brakes. This is the Thunderdome. I am speaking of course, about shopping carts.

    Cart Rage. Anybody who’s ever plopped a feverish toddler into a seventy-pound metal cage with a sticky front wheel knows what I’m talking about. Trying desperately to maneuver through the fluorescent labyrinth of a warehouse grocery store, accumulating a week’s worth of groceries before the child in your cart is old enough to require braces. Personally, I prefer to shop with a screaming toddler. It turns my cart into something akin to an emergency vehicle. Like a siren, little Billy will alert fellow shoppers of my approach and let them know to pull off to the side. If you’re not careful, tempers can run short. In the interest of public safety, I have taken it upon myself to illustrate three troublesome cart drivers to watch out for.

    1. The “Diva.” Miss Thing believes the grocery store and all its inhabitants were created just for her. You can identify the Diva driver by the way she leaves her cart unattended in the middle of the busiest thoroughfare, wandering off to contemplate the intricacies of fresh versus concentrate, effectively blocking both lanes of traffic until she has made up her precious, precious mind.

    Strategy: The Movement. Whenever I spot an abandoned cart, no matter how many children, groceries or personal affects it has in it, I like to hunker down beside it and start singing protest songs at top volume. Usually, the Diva can’t get away fast enough.

    2. The “Daredevil.” This is NASCAR style shopping. This guy carries no list, coupons, or meal plan, armed with only his wits and, unfortunately for you, a major weight advantage swinging blindly around a corner at thirty-five miles an hour.

    Strategy: Reconnais-sance. Dispatch your spouse or a trustworthy child to precede you like a hurricane hunter to gather intelligence on activity in nearby produce sectors. If the Daredevil is barreling your way, remain calm. Do not try to outrun him. Get low and cover your head to protect yourself from flying canned goods. Shield yourself with a 12-pack of quilted toilet tissue if available.

    3. The “Diner.” These shoppers usually mill around in foraging herds, particularly on sample day. As crafty as they are hungry, they create pockets of gridlock around any display of food that is not protected by a vacuum seal. Particularly dangerous around grapes and bulk peanuts, an unruly group of Diners can also form an arterial clog in the self-serve bakery aisle.

    Strategy: Infiltration. Sneak into the throng’s outer perimeter while making chewing motions with your jaw. Turn to the person nearest you and whisper, “Say, did you have any of those lobster claw samples they’re handing out over on Aisle Six? Man, are they good or what?” Then move aside swiftly. Standing in the way of stampeding grocery-store moochers can be more dangerous than running with the bulls in Pamplona.

    With this information, your next shopping expedition should go smoothly. And if somewhere in this article, you recognize yourself, so much the better. We can’t all stand in the express lane, but with a little effort, we can make it back to the safety of our cars before the ice cream melts.

  • What’s a Black Caucus?

    Ella Fitzgerald used to sing a tune that said, “I’m putting all my eggs in one basket…I’m betting everything I’ve got on you.” This may be great advice for the love game, but it’s a lousy way to play politics. If you put everything in one political basket, as African Americans in this state have largely done since Ted Mondale was knee-high to a voting booth, then what happens when the guys holding the other basket wins? We get goose eggs. And, should one of us happen to put our eggs in “the wrong” basket, then we as a group still come up with goose eggs—because the true brothers will ostracize the one who is perceived as being wayward.

    Which brings me to Peter Bell. University of Minnesota regent. Veteran, Jesse Ventura’s transition team. Current member, Governor-elect Tim Pawlenty’s transition team. Republican. And last, but not least, African American. Now, one would think that our so-called community leaders would be happy to have a conduit to Minnesota’s power elite. Wrong. Four years ago, when then Governor-elect Ventura tapped Bell for his brain trust, many African Americans panned Ventura for not appointing a “real” black person.

    When Bell ran for Hennepin County Commission a short time later, most African-American leaders enthusiastically campaigned against him.
    During that election, Bell was asked to present his views at an Urban Coalition-sponsored candidates’ meeting. According to its website, the Urban Coalition is a grassroots community organization that works for social justice. I saw everything but justice at that meeting. I witnessed the verbal equivalent of a lashing. Prominent African-American ministers, community activists, and just plain folks vied to see who could inflict the most abuse on Bell. It was a sickening spectacle. Bell told the group something I will never forget. “My racial identity is too important to me to cede control of it to anyone—white people or self-appointed black leaders.”
    After the meeting, one well-known community leader said in my presence, “Peter Bell is bad news. The white man will always keep us down as long as he has Tommin’ Negroes like that to do his dirty work for him.” Heads nodded in agreement. No one rose to defend Bell’s right to be a conservative, including me. I did not want to risk being labeled as another “black conservative,” which in that group would have meant “sell-out.” I now regret that moment of cowardly silence.

    I knew then that Peter Bell could be conservative, support Republican candidates, and be African American. Just as importantly, I have come to appreciate how crucial people like Peter Bell are to the viability of the African-American community.

    Like it or not, the Republicans won the mid-term elections, both nationally and here in Minnesota, big time. And Minnesota is drowning in red ink, big time. The GOP won office, and it comes attached to a major financial crisis. Republicans, like most successful politicians, tend to believe in the political adage that you dance with the one that brung ya. In other words, since Tim Pawlenty got elected governor with scant African-American support, guess whose political agenda will not be at the top of the Governor-elect’s to-do list?

    Now, back to Peter Bell. Given the current political landscape, Bell should be on the speed dial of every African-American community group. Instead, Bell gets ignored. According to Bell, sometimes groups will quietly call him and take advantage of his contacts. Once they get what they need, they disavow any ties to him.

    Here is my proposal: The Urban League should sponsor a political summit, bringing together black Republicans like Peter Bell and St. Paul’s City Council member Jerry Blakey with people like Spike Moss and mainstream African-American DFLers. The summit’s agenda would be figuring out how to best exploit the collective talent, contacts, and resources across the African-American political spectrum. Racial loyalty tests would get checked at the door. The objective would be developing a game plan for surviving the next years of budget cuts, which will almost certainly inflict disproportionate pain on black folks.

    We are living in some tough economic times. It’s going to get worse before it gets better. Like it or not, African Americans in this town have got to face the cold truth that we cannot afford to dis anyone—black Republicans or blue-eyed Scandinavians, who, like Peter Bell, are able and willing to help our community.

  • Running Amok

    There’s ice on the banks of the Mississippi, a fact I might have put to good use if I’d noticed earlier. As it is, I’m halfway across—and neck-deep in—a backwater somewhere near Fort Snelling. I can only hope these are the last few steps of a run organized by the Minneapolis Hash House Harriers. The water is cold enough that I can’t help gasping, and my feet have quickly become two points of sharp pain trudging through the mud. As I emerge from the water on the other side, holding my shoes and socks above my head with one hand and a guide rope with the other, I reflect on how quickly I opted for a great deal of acute pain to avoid running a two-mile detour on dry land. In fact, I’ve spent much of my life avoiding running. This is the first time I’ve ever been tempted to take part in a group running activity, and the main attraction was the Hash House Harriers’ motto of being “a drinking club with a running problem.” I figured I hate running, but I like drinking beer, so somewhere on the running-drinking continuum I might find fitness.

    My adventure with the club began about two hours earlier, in the parking lot of a St. Paul shopping mall. Twenty of us running drinkers (or, in some cases I suppose, drinking runners) circled up and received a chalk-talk on the basics of hashing. In today’s “hash,” two “hares” started out 15 minutes ahead, marking a trail by bouncing a tennis ball covered in flour, and marking intersections with chalk.

    The traditions and vocabulary of the hash have their roots in “hounds and hares,” the English version of hide-and-seek. In 1938, a group of British expatriates in Kuala Lumpur re-created the children’s game with adult refreshments, and there are now more than 1,500 clubs worldwide dedicated to the activity. Along the way, hashers have developed their own traditions, including the use of embarrassing or vulgar nicknames for each other, such as “Balls of Ice,” “Dogbreath,” or “Mr. Ed.” Many people who have hashed together for years do not know each other’s real names.

    Once the hares ran off, the rest of us stood around swapping off-color jokes, and a couple of people showed their obsessive commitment to cardiovascular health by smoking cigarettes. Indeed, although a few of the “hashers” had the thin, gazelle-like bearing of a serious runner, most of us would easily fit into what the running world delicately calls the “Clydesdale” category. My dream of the hasher lifestyle as an effective weight-control method seemed optimistic.

    And then we were off… on a slow jog, then a walk, then a stop, a double-back, then a walk, then a scramble down a hill, and so on. To keep the run interesting, the hares mark numerous paths, some of which end up being false trails. The faster runners sprinted ahead to scout the prospective paths, while the rest of us milled around in a generally forward-moving direction, waiting to hear which was the “true path.” In fact, the hardest running segment of the day was a jog up the riverbank to a promised martini stop. Unfortunately, the hooch was all gone, which spoiled the mood considerably.

    After an hour and a half, up and down the riverbank and over a highway, six of us arrived at the river crossing. Luckily, the submarine experience was followed quickly by a fire in a warming hut, cold beer, and the bag of dry clothes we had been warned to bring along. “Second Base,” a happy-go-lucky nurse from Minneapolis, told me that previous outings have taken them through swamps and multiple river and stream crossings. “I still have marks on my legs from running through the forest last August!” she said. Two of her friends who accompanied her on their first hash were notably unimpressed by the experience. “I thought I’d have time to go shopping this afternoon!” sniffed one.

    “Sucks,” a tall real estate assessor from a hashing club in Milwaukee, took another view. “It’s a good way to meet people, it gets you outside, you get to drink, and the chicks get naked,” he confided.

    At the post-run soiree in a Richfield basement, the party mood was odd—a weird cross of women’s rugby, Dungeons and Dragons, and “Girls Gone Wild.” While the group was holding its traditional post-run circle to “down the hare”—basically making the trail-setters drink—a couple of women visiting from the Milwaukee club actually took off their tops, while yelling drinking songs at the top of their lungs. In the end, I left neither drunk nor sold on the hashing lifestyle. But I have to agree with another hasher, who said, “It’s a good way to kill an afternoon!”—Dan Gilchrist

  • The Bad Breath of Justice

    “We are looking for the person on house arrest. Please press the BAT button.” Daniel Lemke hears this on his phone three times a day. It’s called the Alco-sensor. Developed by Mitsubishi, it is one of the few devices that can be called Orwellian without exaggerating. The Alco-sensor is essentially a home breathalyzer with a modem. A central computer at Minnesota Monitoring generates a call to the Alco-sensor client at home. The client sets the device for a fresh test, gets in front of the built-in camera, and blows through a straw into the machine. Minnesota Monitoring gets a printout of the client’s face and the results of a pass/fail sobriety check.

    “If you fail, it’s pretty much like you’ve skipped bail,” said Lemke, who allowed The Rake to see the device he took home from a D.W.I. arrest in November. “It’s a condition of release. So if you fail, they’ll come and get you,” said the 40-year-old handyman.

    Karen Burkey is a manager at Minnesota Monitoring. I asked her if she is Big Brother, and she laughed. “I guess, kind of.” Her company specializes in what has grown to be a staggering array of products that keep tabs on substance-abuse suspects; drug testing for schools, home kits for parents, urine testing for employers, ankle bracelets, and counseling. Burkey said she’s got about 250 Alco-sensors in service at any given time, and is pleased with the “customer service” record with the machine. The “customer service” concept isn’t as ironic as it seems. Inferior products, Burkey pointed out, often generate false positives from non-alcohol products like cigarettes. This makes an obvious difference to the people who have to blow into the thing three times a day.

    Some D.W.I. defense attorneys are incensed by the Alco-sensor. State law now requires $12,000 bail to release any D.W.I. suspect who tests at twice the legal limit (.20 percent or higher blood alcohol) or has a previous conviction. Those who can’t cough up the 12 large (or the $1,200 bond toward it) are allowed to go home with an Alco-sensor.

    “The Alco-sensor is punishment before guilt and violates the basic tenets of our rights and freedoms, most importantly the presumption of innocence,” said Lemke’s attorney, Chris Ritts. Adding that it leaves wealthy violators free to post bail and tipple as much as they please pre-trial, he also points out that it amounts to confinement; failure to be home for any of the three scheduled daily calls is an automatic violation. Burkey estimates that her monitoring site gets about five violations a week.

    Other attorneys say Alco-sensor benefits less-affluent clients who would otherwise sit in the clink awaiting settlement or trial. But given the house-arrest quality of the program, they’d like it more if suspects could get credit for time served at sentencing. Lemke is hoping to make such a case if he’s found guilty. By his next court date, he will have been married to the machine for more than five weeks.—Joe Pastoor

  • Letter from China: “Minneapolis garbage, Shanghai gold!”

    Acrid smoke billows from the open loading doorways as I adjust my face mask and move tentatively into the smelting room. Above, a muscle-powered crane is lifting a small pile of stainless steel scrap over the dirt floor, toward two men standing over the white-orange burn of a smelting furnace. As they reach out for the load of scrap, I move closer, but the heat is so great that I stop ten feet from their platform. I notice that the men are in short sleeves and jeans; they do not wear gloves or respiratory protection. My guide, Mr. Jian “James” Li, president of Shanghai Metallink, taps me on the shoulder and yells, “Let me show you what happens.”

    I follow him out of the building and remove my mask. Though the air in Shanghai’s Pudong New Area is some of China’s most polluted, I find the contrast with the smelting room’s air to be refreshing. We walk around to the back where a pile of half-meter-long, solid stainless-steel cylinders are stacked haphazardly against the building. They look like bombs. “Minneapolis garbage, Shanghai gold,” James tells me proudly. He leads me past another smelting room, and across the fetid dirt road that serves as a main street for the workers who choose to live in Shanghai Metallink’s company dorms. Through a gate, we arrive in a newly laid concrete unloading area, about two acres in total, where dozens of pallets containing scrap stainless steel are being sorted by manual laborers.

    “Over here.” James points. “That’s from Minneapolis. American Iron, that box. Alliance Steel, that box.” He is referring to American Iron & Supply Company (famed builders of a soon-to-be-operational metal shredder on the Mississippi waterfront), and Alliance Steel, respectively. Both are large Minneapolis scrap recyclers, and both have developed successful export markets into mainland China. Several times each year, James visits Minneapolis scrap yards to arrange for the shipment of low-grade scrap stainless steel and electronic scrap to his facility in Pudong. The stainless steel being recycled during my visit left Minneapolis, by rail, about six weeks earlier.

    James invites me to examine the Minneapolis material. It’s a wild assortment of broken or defective industrial components, ranging from high-temp thermometers to circuit boards. One box is a mixed assortment of valves stamped “Rosemount, Inc.—Eden Prairie, Minnesota.” American Iron has been purchasing Rosemount’s high-tech scrap and defective equipment for years, though the decision to ship it to China is recent. American Iron paid around three cents a pound for the material. It will be processed and resold in China for around a dollar a pound. “Labor is cheap,” James explains. “So I can afford to have my people take it apart, sort it, by hand. It’s too expensive to do in my Chicago warehouse. A lot of it would be burned or thrown away.”

    Joe Chen, another Chinese scrap processor who has bought Minnesota’s industrial scrap metal, explains it this way: “In China we can afford to have a no-landfill policy. I can pay people to pull the gold off a circuit board, separate the insulation from copper wire. All of it gets recycled. But in America, most of it’s garbage, unrecyclable. And it ends up in a landfill.”

    As James leads me into his office at the edge of the smelting operation, he muses, “China is the best place for recycling now. But one day it’ll be too developed.”—Adam Minter

    Adam Minter

  • Hockey Laureate

    The other night, two-dozen hockey fans milled around the Iron Range Grill. They were biding their time. Across the corridor, in a half hour, the puck would drop on the big sheet of ice at the Xcel Energy Center. The Wild, enjoying a hot streak early in the season, would be facing the Vancouver Canucks, a flourishing new rivalry.

    The wait staff in the Grill was decked out in T-shirts featuring the names of Iron Range cities. AITKIN brought an acrid tray of buffalo wings and a schooner of macrobrew to a table situated under a photo-mural of World War II-era hockey teams from the Range. EMBARRASS poured a stiff rum and Coke for a man in an NHL “Original 6” hat. COLERAINE cleared a table whose party gathered around a display case featuring a vintage Chicago Black Hawks jersey—worn when the Hawks held training camp in Hibbing in 1935. The cash register rang again and again.

    A cynic might arch an eyebrow at the thought of a third-year franchise peddling history as a commodity like so many giant foam fingers. But that cynic has not met Roger Godin. Godin is the Wild’s official team curator, and as far as anybody can tell, the only curator employed by a professional sports organization in North America. The team’s desire to reconnect with Minnesota’s rich hockey tradition is palpable when you walk into “the X.” And they’ve got the perfect man for the job in Godin, a spry 60-something with twinkling eyes, a keen attention to detail, and a droll smile that suggests he knows something you don’t.

    “He just has this remarkably perfect background,” said Matt Majka, the team’s vice president of marketing. “When we were talking about filling this position, we found out that the former director of the Hall of Fame was living two blocks away and was interested in the position.” Indeed, Godin was the first director of the U.S. Hockey Hall of Fame in Eveleth, serving in that capacity from 1971 to 1987. A self-proclaimed “museum guy,” the New York native eventually moved back to his roots on the East Coast, but his road wound back to Minnesota and he became one of the first hires of the fledgling hockey franchise.

    Touring the concourses at the X, Godin is in his element. His handiwork is the spearhead of the team’s various initiatives intended to reclaim Minnesota’s status as “The State of Hockey.” From the high school hockey jerseys ringing the arena to the artifacts in the Iron Range Grill, Godin is responsible for curating and maintaining these exhibits.

    There are vitrines protecting rare Golden Gopher and U.S.A. Olympic jerseys. There’s an informative exhibit on the Hobey Baker and Patty Kazmaier awards, given annually to the nation’s top male and female players. There’s even an homage to the dear, departed Minnesota North Stars. Near the entrance to Section 109 sits Zamboni No. 37 — yes, the 37th such machine ever built by Frank J. Zamboni & Co. This unit was first used at the old St. Paul Auditorium in 1956. Most of the memorabilia at the X is on loan from the U.S. Hockey Hall of Fame and the collections of hockey buffs who want to share their love of the game and its history.

    The lasting impression created by a tour of the X is that Wild folks relish Minnesota’s rich hockey heritage and traditions. Godin’s work might be dismissed as window-dressing in other buildings, but to the Wild, these artifacts are as crucial as the ice itself.—Patrick Donnelly

  • Go, Fish!

    The other day, the Minnesota Zoo announced the birth of a baby dolphin. The zoo is soliciting $25 sponsorships to help pay for the little calf’s all-fish diet. Once she’s weaned from her mother, she’ll eat up to 20 pounds of fish a day. Where will all that fish come from? Perhaps our thriving local seafood restaurants can offer some help.

    Observant Twin Citizens will have noticed that sushi restaurants are proliferating here faster than Starbucks in a strip mall. The old guard still thrives in the warehouse district’s Origami and Sakura in St. Paul. But new shops such as Nami and Sushi Tango are being conceived all the time. Today there are more than 20 sushi restaurants in the metro. Minnesota may boast many amenities and natural resources, but an ocean is not one of them. So how do oceangoing fish migrate to the land of 10,000 lakes?

    Most local sushi restaurants rely on more than one wholesaler, and each wholesaler has fish sources that vary by species and season. For example, True World Foods, a Chicago concern which supplies many of the Twin Cities’ restaurants, gets its salmon from farms in Chile and Norway, its Atlantic bluefin tuna from New England in the summer and from the Mediterranean during the rest of the year, and its yellowfin tuna from the Gulf of Mexico.

    Fish markets in many big cities are notorious for their links to organized crime. True World has a stranger pedigree: It’s supposedly owned by the Unification Church of the Reverend Sun Myung Moon. (Indeed, the Rev. Moon is theologically obsessed with the tuna; it is a central symbol in the faith. Moon has salted his sermons with many fishy pronouncements, such as, “When the tuna bites, [the people] are instantly united as one,” and, “tuna fishing is certainly not a vacation for me; it is a war and a battle.”) When I called True World to check into the Moonies’ involvement, a company representative was reticent. “We have people of many religions working here,” she said.

    If fish is to be served truly raw—never frozen—it will keep for about a week from when it is caught. But here’s the catch: According to Minnesota regulations, Atlantic bluefin, yellowfin, and bigeye tuna are the only fish that can be served genuinely raw. Other sushi cuts, including all the clams, eels, urchins, octopi, and what have you, are required to be “fresh frozen,” meaning they have been frozen for a requisite period of time—15 hours in a super cold “blast” freezer or a week in a normal freezer— and thawed for serving. These critters can be kept in a ship’s hold or a refrigerated truck for weeks.

    Reassuringly, the Minneapolis Environmental Health Department reports that complaints against sushi restaurants are no higher than any other type of eateries, and the state Health Department has had no reports in recent memory of food-borne disease outbreaks due to sushi. (One local sushi restaurateur laments that when he pulls up customer records in response to a health complaint, he often finds they have “lots of tempura and beer on the bill. But people are very quick to blame sushi instead.”)

    In truth, some local restaurants do a delicate dance with the health department and sneak non-tuna specialties that have avoided the oxymoronic “fresh freezing” process. On condition of anonymity, one local chef served me truly raw hotategai (scallop) that had been flown in from the Sea of Japan, and I have to say that the flesh seemed unusually sweet and tantalizing compared to its thawed cousin. On the other hand, I could not tell the difference between a bluefin tuna roll made with fresh frozen fish and one made with raw. The only way to really be sure what you’re eating is to badger your sushi chef—as long as you can convince him you’re not a health inspector.

    And now the bad news: The Monterey Aquarium, which tracks fish populations around the world, reports stocks of Atlantic bluefin tuna, the most popular sushi fish in Japan and the U.S., are threatened by overfishing, and that salmon farming is degrading ocean habitats and possibly introducing parasites into wild salmon populations. Environmentalists are also concerned by the increased “penning” of tuna, where wild tuna are caught and then fattened in cages before being “harvested.” The Aquarium recommends avoiding bluefin tuna and farmed salmon to avoid depleting or damaging ocean resources. Sorry, Charlie!—Dan Gilchrist