A Rebours

Taking that second bite at A Rebours is a “Where have you been all my life?” moment. This assumes, of course, that you have a destiny with outstanding French bistro food–and we all do, really. With its white tiled floor and long-aproned servers, A Rebours’ rough but elegant atmosphere makes you feel comfortable and out-of-town at the same time, as any true bistro should. The menu is easy–oysters on the half shell, steak au poivre, cassoulet–but it’s also daring, with creative gravlax and charcuterie plates and cocoa-dusted duck breast. Dinner can be a high-buck affair, especially with a selection from the stunning French wine list, so a good bet is to sample the omelette du jour at lunch, or get a memorable start on the day with quiche and a flawless bowl of latte at breakfast. The only thing sweeter than the breads (baked at sister Bakery on Grand) is the excellent service. 410 St. Peter St., St. Paul; 651-665-0656