Gardens of Salonica

“Greek food is arousing,” declared one of my table companions after a big bite of his spicy soutzokakia sandwich. The rest of us raised our eyebrows and waited for him to explain. He chose instead to blush and mumble that he “just meant intriguing.” But he’s right. All that garlic and olive oil, lemony ambelodolmades in grape leaves, sweet and tangy roasted red peppers—it’s zesty and Zorbalicious. Step into your own personal Poseidon adventure in this airy two-room café in Old St. Anthony, tan and blue with vines and stone statuary decorating the walls. Stacked in a pile on the radiator are books on Greek culture and Northeast Minneapolis history—take a few minutes before your meal arrives to transport yourself mentally from East Hennepin to coastal Thessalonica. You can’t go wrong with that old standby the gyros, but try to make room for the pureed garlic skordalia and the tasty tyro, feta cheese with olive oil and peppers. Top it off with the thick, rich and dark Greek coffee—just don’t get caught unawares by the loamy grounds at the bottom of the cup. Gardens of Salonica, (612) 378-0611