Landmarc Grill

The old curmudgeon is at it again. Michael Morse, crusty former owner of the late, lamented Café Un Deux Trois and a schmoozer extraordinaire, now presides over the Landmarc Grill in the Normandy Inn and Suites in downtown Minneapolis. It’s the kind of comfort-food joint that Morse has talked about opening for years, serving roast chicken, veal meatloaf, and chicken pot pie, but with a touch of French bistro as well: salade niçoise, croque monsieur, steak frites, and sautéed calves liver. The former Normandy Village dining room has been given a complete makeover, but Morse has kept three of its signature dishes: pancakes (breakfast will be offered soon), popovers for dinner, and a terrific hand-ground Henry VIII burger. Occasional specials like trout stuffed with shrimp and scallops show a depth of talent in the kitchen. Except for the steak frites and the “world’s best crab cakes” (both $24), everything is under $20, with the burger, pot pie, entrée salads, and sandwiches all in the $10-$12 range. 405 S. 8th St., Minneapolis; 612-455-1204.