The "It" Fruit

During my childhood, the whirl of the eating season that begins this month was usually ushered in with that most agreeable social function, the potluck supper. Friends gathering, sharing food of their own making–it is a humble community feast where everyone gives and takes and huddles against the encroaching cold. In the car, I always held the bowl containing my family’s offering–I was the reliable and steady one, at least when it came to this task. Looking down at my mother’s green salad laced with mandarin oranges, almonds, and pomegranate seeds in my lap, the little red orbs seemed nearly to glow beneath the Saran Wrap. The pop and flavor of those juicy seeds were one of the things I associated with holiday functions, a treat of the season.

On the potluck table, my mother’s salad always stood out among the Tater Tot hot dishes and green bean bakes. People were interested, but hesitant. I remember looking at those who pushed the oddly tangy seeds to the sides of their plate and assuming they were saving the best for last. When I witnessed the jewels tumbling into the garbage along with the remainder of some unfortunately selected goulash, I would grow almost despondent. How could you throw away a ruby?

In recent decades, few people have understood the allure of this ancient food. The leathery, round, amber-colored fruits quietly bided their time in the shadows until, once again, they could rise to the forefront of food culture. And that time is now: The pomegranate is hot, hot, hot. Celebrities inspire the rest of us to sip pomegranate juice cocktails, and star chefs are using the fruit in daring and innovative ways: pomegranate salsa! pomegranate caramel sauce! Meanwhile, physicians can’t seem to stop talking about the amazing health benefits that accrue to a life that involves pomegranates. The buzz shows no sign of abating.

It’s quite fitting to call the current fascination with pomegranates a rebirth. For centuries, this fruit has been a symbol of fertility and regeneration: Opening a pomegranate reveals a lush bounty of blood-red seeds nestled in soft, white flesh. Along with olives, grapes, figs, and dates, pomegranates were among the first domesticated crops; the tree on which they grow is believed to have originated in ancient Persia. As it spread throughout the world, the beautiful fruit rose to a place of importance in many cultures. Buddhists see it as one of the three sacred fruits, along with the citron and the peach. The Chinese gave sugared pomegranate seeds as wedding presents while decorating the bridal chamber with the fruit to encourage fertility.

The pomegranate also figures prominently in the story of Persephone. When the smitten Hades, god of the underworld, kidnapped Persephone, her grieving mother Demeter, the goddess of nature, plunged the world into a famine. Zeus agreed to help free her, as long as she hadn’t eaten anything from the underworld. Alas, the depressed Persephone had allowed herself six pomegranate seeds to quench her thirst. Thus, she would be allowed to return to earth for only six months of each year, spending the other six in the underworld. Demeter celebrated each return with spring and summer and mourned her daughter’s eventual departure with fall and winter. It was this connection to death and rebirth that led Christians to later make the pomegranate a symbol of the Resurrection.

Its current rebirth as a medicinal holy grail is being fueled, oddly enough, by coin collectors. Roll International Corporation (the company behind the Franklin Mint, Fiji water, and Teleflora) is driving the country’s desire for pomegranates through POM Wonderful, the breakout fruit and juice company that has quickly become a supermarket staple. The pomegranate’s dark garnet juice is thicker and bolder in flavor than that of the cranberry, and offers a dusky sweetness with a tart finish. While the purists will slug the nectar directly from its distinctive, bulbous bottle, the stylish set chooses to dilute it, say, with vodka in a Pomtini or rum in a Pomojito. Plugging the powerful antioxidant properties of pomegranate juice, POM Wonderful has literally bet the farm on the future of pomegranates, planting thousands of trees in California’s San Joaquin Valley over the past five years. By investing more of its millions in cardiovascular, cancer, and other types of medical research than it does in marketing, the company seems to be planning for the long haul.

As trendy as the pomegranate is, it’s still a relative oddball to the home cook. Extracting the sparkling arils (the correct term for the seed, which is actually encased in a pouch of liquid) from the fleshy white pith can be a bit laborious. The best method is to cut off the crown, score the flesh into four sections and break the fruit apart over a bowl of water. Under water, you can gently roll the arils out from the cottony pith, which will float as the arils sink. Strain the water and claim your treasure. Eating the capsules whole will give you a burst of juice and small crunchy seed to chew. There are those who would spit the seed out, thus missing out on both fiber and fun, but they dare not dribble as the juice will stain.

In season from October through January, the fall fruit’s robust flavors are a perfect match for the heartier foods of the season. The concentrated paste known as pomegranate molasses (available in some specialty stores) makes a tangy addition to sauces for roasted meats, especially duck, as in one variation on the traditional Persian stew known as khoresh. Adding the juice to a fig-and-olive tapenade makes an easy dip or poultry paste. Freezing the juice in an ice cream maker can make an earthy sorbet that is healthier than pumpkin pie. As a longtime fan of foods that can make the jump from antiquity to modern times with flare, I’m betting on the pomegranate to be more than trendy. I believe its alluring flavors will seduce the world once again and it will become revered–if not in a sacred sense, then by holding a secure place in the mainstream diet. At that point, maybe Tater Tot hot dish will seem exotic.

Chicken Pomegranate Stew
(a version of Persian khoresh)

2 cups fresh pomegranate juice (or 1/2 cup pomegranate molasses)
1 cup ground almonds
1 cup ground walnuts
3 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon saffron (dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot water)
Pinch of cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon thyme
1 small yellow onion
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
Salt and pepper to taste
4- to 5-pound fryer chicken, cut up, skin removed (or 4 – 6 boneless, skinless chicken breasts)

Combine pomegranate juice, nuts, sugar, and spices (except turmeric). Set aside.

In a medium pot, saute onions in oil until translucent. Add chicken, just searing, then turmeric, salt, and pepper. Add 1 cup of water and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes.

Add pomegranate mix and simmer for an additional 30 minutes, adding water if necessary.

Remove from heat and cover for 10 minutes before serving. Serve over couscous.