Il Vesco Vino

With its creaky floors, exposed brick, and multiple fireplaces, the Victorian manse at 579 Selby has always welcomed diners with casual elegance. When it housed The Vintage Restaurant, the food reviews were mixed, but with the opening of Il Vesco Vino (The Bishop’s Wine), the cuisine finally matches its surroundings in terms of both quality and comfort. The venerable family behind I Nonni and Buon Giorno discreetly took over the space and brought in their honored Italian recipes for dishes like ventresca tuna, beef carpaccio, grilled octopus, and a dense and satisfying gnocchi—all paired with interesting wines offered by the carafe. 579 Selby Ave., St. Paul; 651-222-7000; www.ilvescovino.com