Flower Cooking

I passed up these farmer’s market jewels again and again, even though they were right there under my eyes the whole time. Not one for plate decoration, I figured the papery squash blossom to be a useless bit of frill, destined to sit prettily and quietly beside some pallid piece of fish. Talk about misjudgment.

That all changed when I experienced them cooked into a mild risotto: Squash blossoms are a gardener’s delight and market hunter’s treasure. These delicate flowers, which are naturally soft and a bit floppy, grow in a delicate array of yellows and oranges, and are edible raw or cooked. They even offer nutrients: vitamins A and C along with calcium and iron. Female blossoms form directly on the end of the growing squash, while the male blossoms, which don’t actually produce anything, stand on a long stem; both eat equally well.

Carrying a unique flavor that slightly hints of the accompanying squash, the blossoms can be used in many dishes. Mexican cuisine has long employed them in rich soups or as a layer in quesadillas. New and tasty ways to use the slight beauties call for their subtle but distinct presence in frittatas, biscuits, and salads, all becoming popular in summer. One of the best ways to eat them is beignet style, as a stuffed fritter. Filled with an herbed, creamy cheese and fried with a sweetly crisp outer skin, the blossoms impart a tang and slight bite that make them an addictive starter.

If you’re harvesting blossoms, it’s best to cut in the morning when the petals are open. The tender flowers don’t keep very well, so they must be handled with care. Whether bringing them in from the garden or home from the market, rinse them in cold water and allow to air-dry. Wrapped in paper towels and sealed in a plastic container, then chilled in the crisper drawer at around 34 degrees, they will stay fresh for up to two days. But enjoy them while you can: Like many of the pleasures of summer, the squash blossom is all too fleeting.

SQUASH BLOSSOM FRITTERS
Batter:
1 cup flour
1/2 cup cornstarch
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 cup skim milk
1/2 cup summer ale

Filling:
1/2 cup soft goat cheese
1 clove garlic, minced
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh basil
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh lemon thyme
Pinch kosher salt and fresh ground pepper
Canola oil
12 squash blossoms

For batter: Sift dry ingredients, then whisk in liquids until smooth. Cover and chill for 30 minutes.
For filling: In bowl, combine goat cheese, garlic, herbs and seasoning; mix well.
Slightly open blossoms, spoon about 1 teaspoon of filling into center of each; do not overfill. Twist the top of the blossom to close, chill for 15 minutes.
For cooking: Pour oil into a 2-inch deep skillet/pan to a depth of about 1/2 inch. Heat on high for about 5 minutes. Test oil with a small cube of bread, which will turn golden within seconds when oil is ready.
Dip stuffed blossom into batter, then slip it gently into the hot oil. Cook and turn until golden on all sides, about 3 minutes. Cook in batches, without overcrowding skillet. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to paper towels.
Sprinkle the blossoms with salt, squeeze a lemon over them, and serve immediately.