Category: Blog Post

  • Fin: An End to the Reverie at Dusk

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    I drink at dusk in autumn.

    This is dangerous, as dusk comes a little earlier every day, cutting my afternoon off at 6:30, then 6, and then, suddenly, this past weekend, around half past 5.

    I can almost feel the lonely, lavender air come down like a curtain, or a veil. The world dims in quick shutter stages, the leaves in the driveway swirl and scratch, and I love all this in the same way I enjoy sad movies. Throat aching, I sit looking out the window. I might as well drink; it’s not as if I’m going to get anything done.

    This time of year always reminds me of when I lived in Duluth, fall of 1990. Dusk was later up north, but it came down like a sheet of dark water. The wind in the maples made an eerie whistle and on murky evenings we could hear the foghorn blowing across the lake.

    I was 24 and in love, but anxious too. About my husband’s addiction, the future for my two young sons, the rent and oil bills and groceries we couldn’t afford. Dusk came and I remember, I always felt a slice of fear.

    I still do. I think there’s a moment — you can miss it if you’re working or inside a bright kitchen or talking on the phone — when the world goes from light to dark and crosses something empty. It’s that moment when I always realize that we’re actually, each of us, simply stranded in a little sphere of gravity, exhaling useless carbon dioxide, unnecessary, really. And completely alone.

    Nothing matters in that moment: even for me, a mother who loves her three with a wild, irrational force, there is no real purpose in putting children forth. They’re only walking out into a world with random car crashes and weak blood vessels, after all. And money — what IS money, anyway? — which will govern their lives but ultimately come to nothing. Paper, like leaves. . . .

    And no news, whether of despots or ecologists, really matters either. Claim a country, for what? And sustainability? It’s a pipe dream. Everything is temporary, just a flash of activity occurring in a particular time. There is nothing to sustain because in the end it’s only earth and water and sky.

    It is at this point, that crevice of early evening when I begin thinking pleasantly maudlin thoughts, that I pour a half glass of wine. I drink for a moment or two — just a bit, that’s all it takes; the habit as helpful, I think, as the alcohol itself — and suddenly, I’ve bridged the empty place, reached the other side, reattached myself to things, to people, to the dollar bills in my wallet. It’s an easy ritual, effective, benign, and warm.

    For my former husband, however, the cure never did take. I understand now, in ways I didn’t before, that he felt constantly, as many addicts do, that gap between light and dark. He once told me, after we’d been married for about ten years, that he was alone, always. And I became furious. Was I not a good wife? A constant presence? A comfort?

    The answer is no — to the last, at least. I live today with wry teenagers and a wonderful, new husband, happy in most things and tethered to ordinary events roughly 23 hours a day; yet I often feel that dusky, wise melancholy creep in. And make no mistake. Though I treat it, as do many people I know, with only moderate amounts of good wine, I share something with the man I knew back in Duluth, father to sweet babies and a genuinely lost soul, who kept trying to fill the empty space with tokes and lines, Jack Daniels and Miller Lite.

    Saturday, probably the last good riding day of the year, my husband and I were on our motorcycle headed west into a sky like dark felt cracked with fiery gold. We cornered sharply, taking the ramp onto 394, and I thought, as I do so often, “We could die,” then immediately, “But, of course, it would matter so little and to so few.” And this was, in the molten light of the setting sun, somehow comforting.

    We came home then, quiet, both of us, and opened a strange screwcap wine called Fin., a fruity, currant and cherry-filled Cabernet Sauvignon from 2005.

    I sat at the table with my glass. It took only a few ounces, a quiet space in time filled with the smell of fresh, chopped garlic, and there was that sudden lifting of my disbelief. I stood to help my husband with dinner. Once again, I’d crossed the gap. Dusk was gone.

  • What About Muffuletta?

    My esteemed colleague Ann Bauer is one tough critic. Last month, she claimed that there were only two restaurants in Saint Paul where you can get a decent upscale meal – I Nonni and Heartland, and in her most recent blog posting (see below) – she added Zander Cafe to the list.

    My list is a little longer – I’d rate Muffuletta as one of the best restaurants on either side of the river. Chef J.D. Fratzke’s ever-changing menu combines local ingredients and global influences in dishes such as Moroccan spice-rubbed beef short ribs with preserved lemon relish, or pan-seared Arctic char with braised leeks, wild mushrooms, prosciutto and lobster-citrus sauce.

    And what about Jay’s Cafe? The decor may be too modest, and the prices too reasonable, to qualify as “upscale,” but I have thoroughly enjoyed chef-owner Jay Randolph’s’ Midwestern cuisine. I’ve also had some pretty decent meals at Cafe Biaggio, Pazzaluna, and the Downtowner Woodfire Grill, though I haven’t dined at any of them very recently.

    I do share Ann’s preference for contemporary creative cuisine, but when I am in the mood for classic Americana, The Lexington serves up a perfectly decent dining experience.

  • Bangle Butts, Benzes and Bonding

    Been gone for awhile attending to biz. That being said, I have a few immediate automotive observations to share.

    1) The New Accord shows Japan at its shameless best, again. I coulda’ swore I saw a BMW pull up beside me the other day, but NO, its a direct Bangle-butted four door rice burner called the new Accord: flame surfacing, jutted headlights, the works.

    The funny thing about Chris Bangle’s influence on cars is that other designers seem to have one upped him in refinement.* The new Accord is well resolved and looks far more emotional than a Camry, still.

    2) On the personal front, I acquired a new M550 a few months back in a very quick deal. The 550 is the first E class with the new S-class V8 and its quite the restrained muscle car. Specifically this car is what they call a “fat car” in Germany that is designed to drive well in excess of 100 MPH on the autobahn.

    Because of this, I cannot say I have fully bonded with this car. In fact, because I am a ski racing fanatic and transport ski racers all over the Midwest during the Winter (and French School girls in the summer) I have been wondering WHY I gave up the finest SUV I have ever known for this car–The Toyota Land Cruiser.

    The Benz is comfortable but not large. It is tractable but not terrifying–yet. I bought this car primarily to make my long ski trips more interesting while the family sleeps. That has not happened yet but hope still springs eternal. And, alas, the French girls have all gone back to France.

    * THIS OBSERVATION IS SHARED BY A READER–FROM A PREVIOUS POST: “How true! BMW’s are finally coming out of the Bangle mess (I’m sure you will know what I am talking about here) and the 3-series still isn’t very good looking.”

  • Mea Culpa: I Forgot Zander

    When A Rebours closed earlier this fall, I — and just about every other food writer in the Twin Cities — bemoaned the dearth of fine dining in St. Paul.

    “I don’t know what’s happened,” I wrote on September 20. “There’s practically nowhere left in St. Paul to get a decent upscale meal. The only exceptions are Heartland and I Nonni.”

    But how could I have forgotten Zander Cafe, which has been serving terrific, reasonably-priced and very fine food and wine in Cathedral Hill for nearly ten years? I just don’t know. Perhaps it’s because this modest little brick building on Selby Avenue has a polka-dot sign in kitchen appliance blue that reminds me of the early 1970’s and my mother in stirrup pants doing exercises in front of the TV with Jack La Lanne. Or it could be because Zander closed for three months this summer for a renovation that was completed in the long, slow days of late July.

    In any case, consider the omission corrected.

    I went to Zander for drinks on Friday, ended up staying for a bite to eat, and was utterly charmed. First, there was the wine list — note, this is where wine mogul Sam Haislet of Sam’s Wine Shop got his start as a server and ad hoc sommelier — which included a Domaine de Piaugier Rhone wine by the glass. It was smooth, full of cranberry and raisin, with a nice, hot finish, for only $8.25. And the full wine list offered some incredible values, such as a Foris Pinot Noir for $25 (I pay about $17 retail) and an entire section devoted to Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

    I shared an order of Pappardelle Monte Cristo, a mosaic of noodles, fresh basil, pan-fried eggplant, goat cheese, and roasted red pepper tapenade, which was chewy and crisp, earthy with herbs and cheese, smoky and thick and warm. But best? I talked to Alexander Dixon, the eponymous chef “Zander” who — if you don’t mind my saying (Who else will, after all? Jeremy?) — is one of the cutest, most unassuming chef/owners in town.

    He’s a hirsute and rather rumpled fellow, with owlish eyes behind heavy horn-rimmed specs. And he slinks through the restaurant like some random guy who was sent to check the heating ducts. In fact, Dixon stopped by, even before introductions were made, to talk about the strange, aching gospel-ish music (Nina Simone) that was playing in the bar.

    And about his renovation — a clean bit of sprucing with terra cotta walls in butter and moss, tatami carpet, and desert photos in frames — Dixon said, simply, “It was time.” The man who created what he called a “crude, urban bistro” in 1998 was ready to dress things up.

    His customers, apparently, are not. There were diners in jeans and terry cloth sweatsuits, scruffy in that unmistakable St. Paul style, supping on Three-Soup Mosaic, Salmon en Papillote, and Moroccan Lamb Kabob. Afterward, dressed down as they were, these same patrons might have stepped into Zander’s piano bar — Ferdinand’s, according to the retro sign outside — to listen to a group called the Tributary Jazz Ensemble.

    The Dakota this is not. There were no sleek suited men or women carrying lizard bags or people taking money at the door. The piano had worn keys and the menus were paper, not leather-bound. But I’d put Dixon’s cuisine up against any in town. And there are few places I’d rather hang out than at his little 7-seat bar. Drinking Rhone wine and listening to the throaty grace of Nina Simone.

    In St. Paul. Now, isn’t that a wonder?

  • Stock Your Cellar

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    Today is the last day of Surdyk’s Annual Fall Wine Sale, with 20-35% off bottles throughout the store. So if you’re into the old-style guys-in-ties-and-striped-aprons ambiance of the place — or in the mood for some extraordinary cave-aged Cheddar cheese, also on sale in The Cheese Shop next door — you have until 10 p.m. to make it there.

    Should you be out of town, however, touring the north country and looking at leaves on this exquisite autumn day, try Haskell’s — any one of their 8 Twin Cities stores — where Mr. Farrell and the boys are running their own Fall Wine Sale, ’til Saturday the 27th, with discounts of 30-70%. One of the largest wine purveyors in the country, Haskell’s carries bottles ranging from $6 to $160 right on the floor. You’ll have to ask if you want a Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, however; they keep it in back.

  • Ok, Maybe not Sabathia for Santana


    How’d you like to see this coming at you?

    If last night was any indication, either I’ve severely overestimated C.C. Sabathia or Eric Wedge way overused him during the season. Over 240 innings in a year is a lot these days. (Santana pitched 219 this year.)

    Last night (and in game one of the Boston series) he just wasn’t sharp at all. Zellar opined that it was because he was just tired…and he’s not in very good shape to start with. Over 290 pounds is a lot of weight to move around. About 90 pounds more than Johan has to heft with each pitch.

    Sabathia did go 4-1 against the Twins this year, though, while Santana was 0-5 against the Indians.

    I’d still take Grady Sizemore for Mauer in a heartbeat though.

     

  • The Faces of Minnesota Fashion

    Joy Teiken, the brains behind the local label Joynoelle, opened her new studio and storefront yesterday eve. You’ll find it at 312 W. 42nd St. in South Minneapolis. Here she is, looking as carefree and chic as ever while taking a short break from basking in the glory of it all:
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    And here’s Teiken’s friend, Penny Larsen. You might remember her from our September fashion feature with The New Standards; she’s married to bassist John Munson. But she’s also a jewelry maker – and a damn talented one, I might add. I spent much of last evening admiring a crystal necklace and stunning hairpin, both of her design. She and Teiken are planning to host a "Design Your Own Gift" party for sometime in November, whereat partygoers will be able to make their own handbags, jewelry, and other gifty itmes. Check back for the 4-1-1 on that happening.
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    I also encountered Kimberly Jurek, of Kjurek Couture (her clothes are available locally at Cliche), who looked around the Joynoelle work/retail space and remarked, "This is my dream."
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    Anna Lee of MNfashion and Ruby3 wore a sporty cap (it was not, however, of her own design) and knowing smirk. Already, she’s busy readying for the spring ’08 Voltage Fashion Show – applications are due TODAY, if you’ll believe it! As of late last night, she had already received applications from sixteen designers. Note that the show only has room for twelve.
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    Russell Bourrienne was there, too, also with a smile on his face. He’s been swamped ever since MNfashion Weekend, he said. His open studio event, which was part of MNfashion Weekend’s offerings, yielded several commissions. Another boon to the business: Just last week, it was announced that he was runner-up for the Macy’s Distinction in Design Award. Bravo, Bourrienne!
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    Meet Nic Marshall, fashion photog extrordinaire. He was, roughly, my "date" last night – the boyfriend I left back home to cook me some din-din. Marshall is a favorite photographer of The Rake, as well as plenty of other local publications. Just announced: He’s also going to be the sole photographer for Voltage 2008.
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    Here we have Katherine Gerdes and her "little brother," Nate. These two were en route to a dinner engagement and stopped in for a quick hello. I took the opportunity to badger Gerdes yet again about availability of the beautiful jersey/satin dresses she showed at Eclecticoiffeur‘s MNfashion Weekend runway event. (Read more about them here.) She says I can order one direct, if I so desire.
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  • Mill City Farmers Market: Free Beer Tomorrow!

    The Mill City Farmers Market wraps up its 2007 season tomorrow (Saturday) from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. with a Fall Harvest Festival. Highlights include a tasting of local wines and beer; a cooking demonstration by local chefs making fall stews, appearances by market mascot Roostini, and a mother hen and her chicks, music by the Light of the Moon band, and a pumpkin puppet-making class taught by puppeteers from Heart of the Beast Puppet and Mask Theater. The market is located between the new Guthrie Theater and the Mill City Museum on the Mississippi riverfront in downtown Minneapolis.
    For details, visit the Mill City Farmers Market website.

  • Semen Sent Same-Day Mail

    Winner of the best opening line of the day: On Labor Day weekend, a midwife’s favorite holiday, Louise Sloan, a 41-year-old lesbian, had semen Fed Exed to her mother’s summer place in Kennebunkport, Maine. Read the rest of the article here.

  • Windy City Eats

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    big shoulders and good hot dogs

    I’m feeling old. I’m headed down to Chicago with some of my brood for a college visit/tour. My daughter is looking at Loyola and University of Chicago and I have to go along and ask all the right questions: how recently was the dining hall renovated? can she access ice cream and Froot Loops 24/7? how close is the nearest pizza place? what’s the average distance from dorm to coffee shop?

    Post-tour, it’s up to me to figure out where to eat. Do we go to my favorite Mia Francesca’s and fight for a table just to eat the world’s best beef carpaccio? Or do we hit the slightly more kid-friendly and vogue Hot Doug’s for a serious dog?

    At the very least we should drive by the Green City Market, so she knows there’s a reason to cook in the city. And locating the best cheese shop will be essential to survival.

    Though the city is famous for its deep dish pizza, my girl happens to be a Punch employee, and thusly a thin-crust snob. We might check out Spacca Napoli just to see their massive oven.

    I can’t say how I feel about the schools, but I am rooting for the city.