Category: Blog Post

  • The Full Gamut

    STYLE
    Joynoelle

    1007joynoelle.jpgIf you enjoy local fashion, then surely you’ll be interested to know that local designer Joy Teiken (a.k.a. Joynoelle, see her creation at right) celebrates the opening of her Minneapolis-based boutique and atelier this eve. How very throwback of her, no? The reception lasts from five to eight p.m. The digs? You’ll find ’em at 42nd and Grand Ave. S. If you can’t make the party, don’t despair: From hereon out, the store will keep hours on Thursdays from two to eight p.m. and Saturdays from ten a.m. to four p.m. –Christy DeSmith

    ART & MUSIC
    Another Gallery Grooves Evening

    1007kramer.jpgDanish Teak Classics: A place where your visions of a stylish, modern living area can come into focus. The Rake’s promotions depot hosts another of its fabulous Gallery Grooves events there this eve. There, you can marinade your decorating ideas in a showroom full of vintage-modern chairs, desks, tables, and lighting fixtures — as well as Peter Kramer’s new series of prints, Birdwatching and The Samurai’s Houseboat, featuring drawings done in church, at concerts, and while driving. The event comes replete with fine wine, food, visual art, and jazz to boot. No vin rouge on the orange-wool lounge chair, please. –Christy DeSmith

    7 p.m., Danish Teak Classics, Northrup King Building, 1500 Jackson St. N.E., Suite 277, Minneapolis; 612-362-7870; free.

    MUSIC
    Two Legends Take the Stage

    0710legends.jpgDave Mason and John Mayall have a lot in common: both are ridiculously talented guitarists. Both are native Brits. Both have played with (and, unfortunately, been overshadowed by) some of blues and rock music’s greats — Mayall with Eric Clapton and John Lee Hooker, Mason with Fleetwood Mac and Jimi Hendrix (to name just a few). Both are prolific — each with over 50 CDs to his name. And tonight they are playing what is definitely the hottest show in town. –Danielle Kurtzleben

    9 p.m. (doors at 8 p.m.), Cabooze, 917 Cedar Ave., Minneapolis; $25… way worth it to see two legends take the stage.

    Golden Goldberg Variations

    0710Dinnerstein.jpgLore dictates that Bach wrote his Goldberg Variations to ease the sleepless nights of a Russian count wasting away his nights without the comfort of a Tivo backlog. Perhaps this is why the 30-variation, nine-cannon work is so well suited for a performance of excerpts — proof of an innate human desire for highlight reels, particularly when only the sublime is adequate compensation for dreams. Wonderkind Glenn Gould’s name dominated recordings of the Goldberg Variations for more than 50 years. Earlier this year, Simone Dinnerstein made her name and signed her first recording contract by challenging those monolithic recordings. Dinnerstein will bring her guts and technical prowess to the Landmark Center Cortile this afternoon. Bring your lunch, and The Schubert Club will provide the coffee. –Danielle Cabot

    12 p.m., Landmark Center Cortile, 75 West 5th St., St. Paul; 651-292-3233; free.

    THEATER & PERFORMANCE
    The Clean House

    0710CleanHouse.jpgThis is the first time a Sarah Ruhl play has been produced in the Twin Cities since the thirty-something hotshot’s Eurydice became the hit of Off-Broadway this summer. The Clean House is an earlier product of Ruhl’s fantastical imagination, and one with an important distinction from Eurydice: Even though it was a Pulitzer finalist in 2005, it drew divided criticism. The New York Times raved raved, but The New Yorker’s theater critic smelled a stereotype in the play’s heroine, Matilde, a depressive Brazilian maid who loves wisecracking but doesn’t particularly relish housework. What follows, no matter what your thoughts on the Latina character, is a robust satire on labor relations: Matilde’s employer, a successful American doctor named Lane, goes so far as to feed her servant antidepressants. But Matilde despairs whenever distracted from her quest to form the perfect joke. –Christy DeSmith

    7:30 p.m., Mixed Blood Theater, 1501 S. Fourth St., Minneapolis; 612-338-6131; $10 tonight ($28).

    BOOKS
    Cheating at Canasta: Stories

    0710trevor.jpgCheating at Canasta is a marvelous, enviable title, and William Trevor is an astonishing, and astonishingly reliable, writer. Along with Alice Munro, he is also one of the living masters of the short story. That sort of thing usually sounds like so much hogwash, but in this instance it’s nothing but the plain truth. Even as he approaches eighty, Trevor continues to produce carefully crafted marvels that often whipsaw between deviance and devotion, or dereliction and disappointment, from one story to the next. His best tales are compact and powerful moral symphonies, and are so full of startling and often catastrophic disruptions and moments of exhausted grace that they seem as utterly believable as life. –Brad Zellar

    Available today at bookstores near you.

  • A cigar, a long tunnel, and King Triton's castle. . . .

    100_35291.JPG

    Now this. My good friend and loyal reader, Schneider, sent the photo above in response to my October 11 Jug O’ Wine entry about unexpected bottle shapes.

    Hmmmmmmm.

    Now, maybe I’ve just taken too many film theory classes (Am I, by the way, the only person in America who believes Die Hard was a romance between Bruce Willis and Reginald VelJohnson that climaxed — so to speak — when their hands met in front of a towering skyscraper that rose to pierce the clouds?), but it seems to me the Voga Italia bottle may have been designed to be. . . .um. . . .multi-purpose.

    I haven’t tried the Pinot Grigio. To tell the truth, I don’t want to — I prefer a more traditional, less organic shape in my wine containers. But you can read Schneider’s far less Freudian analysis here.

  • Count Down From 100 With The Movies

    The Guardian Unlimited film blogs are hailing this as the greatest YouTube clip of all time. I don’t know about that, but it is fecking cool: counting down from 100 using classic movie clips. How many can you name?

  • MinnPost vs. The Daily Mole

    Personally, I don’t think of it as much of a competition. But by virtue of both former Star Tribune editor and publisher Joel Kramer and former City Pages editor Steve Perry being inspired pretty much simultaneously by the collapse of print journalism in the Twin Cities and then deciding to bust sod for a credible alternative, the two men find themselves launching their much-anticipated websites within days of each other.

    Kramer, who has received far more attention, recently announced that MinnPost.com will open for business on November 8. Perry, in a conversation this morning, believes there’s a chance the full public debut of The Daily Mole can match or beat that. Not that there is any direct head-to-head competition, you understand.

    For those of you who have not been hanging on every cyber-whisper in this duel, if they were cars, MinnPost would be the Oldsmobile sedan with a box of Kleenex in the rear window to Perry’s tricked out ScionB, with the neon ground effect lighting and Borla exhaust. Plenty of style with not much horsepower. MinnPost has signed up something like four dozen local journalists, some stars, some solid veterans, some head-slappers and some unknowns. Perry, who says he has only recently begun to seriously work his network for money, will rely heavily on himself, his wife Cecily Marcus, and a handful of trusted wits like Jimmy Gaines and John Busey-Hunt, for the launch and (hopefully) build his cast of characters incrementally.

    The Daily Mole has been in private, behind-password, beta mode for a couple weeks now, and, granting the common sensibility of those invited to look in, the reviews have been pretty good. If the real thing can deliver more of the same … with a boost in substance/value … it’ll be a must read, or must see, since Perry’s interest in original, funky, comic video is high.

    Says Perry, “What I told Kramer at the outset when we had coffee, is that it is in our interests that both succeed.”

    His point being that traditional advertisers can see as well as you and me that print newspapers are sorry, struggling beasts, shedding content and readability as fast as profit margins. What advertisers are waiting for is something credible to take their place. “With both of us out there trying to tell advertisers that online sites are for real we each get a boost. I think we’ll complement each other.”

    Kramer, caught on the way to a luncheon speech of some sort, says MinnPost’s beta phase will begin very soon and run for about a week prior to launch. “We don’t expect things to be perfect at launch, but we hope readers understand and bear with us.”

    The chattering class take on this duo is that Kramer must avoid recreating old school ink journalism on the web, adjust his “filter” properly to provide a genuine alternative to what is still being published in print and build a revenue stream rapidly enough — within the next six months — to take full advantage of his “staff” of freelancers before their severance checks from the Star Tribune and Pioneer Press have been lost to casinos, booze and mortgages. Perry’s challenge is to quickly develop a steady flow of bona fide content to match his video and audio cleverness … and find significant investors to keep him afloat for the year or more it’ll take to bring The Mole to some level of maturity.

    As has been reported previously, Kramer’s freelance cast will be earning marginal compensation at best for their contributions. (The sliding scale for blog-type posts up to “featured” news pieces is a little confusing, but it is safe to say no one will be buying into a hedge fund with their MinnPost earnings.)

    Kramer acknowledges the “ticking clock” of the severance checks on his Strib and PiPress staffers indirectly, saying, “What is a concern to us is the concern of trying to do daily journalism with a freelance staff.” Most of his writers are veteran and experienced enough to self-edit. But given their need to diversify their work loads with other endeavors, there’s no guarantee Kramer and MinnPost will have their full concentration when he needs it most.

    Kramer hints that compensation may very well change over the first year as some of his contributors prove themselves to be more valuable than others.

    MinnPost’s editing “filters” are another point of curiosity. Everything will be run through his full-time editors, with posts getting less of a work-over. His chosen filters are all experienced, meticulous and cautious. Maybe too cautious. It seems to me a vital quality of the new media is the willingness to take at least one step, (and probably a half dozen steps) further than a daily newspaper in terms of “reporters” offering what they believe to be true. (Along with clearly distinguishing what is “true” from what is bullshit “balance”.)

    “Edgy” is a very tired word. But none of Kramer’s editors have ever been accused of “edginess”.

    I asked Kramer if he worried about getting tagged with the “old school” label?

    “No. Our primary goal is quality. We think we’ll have some elements that will be entertaining. But ‘edgy’ is not a priority. Quality comes first.” He adds that a lot of people think of the Internet in generalities — “edgy”, etc. — but that there are sites, he mentioned Salon and Slate, where solid journalism regularly trumps snark and cool. He wants a slice of that crowd.

    Kramer did assure me that video and audio production will be a facet of MinnPost … at launch. And that this is not going to be the cheap version, with reporter/writers toting camcorders. “This will be professional video shot by professionals. I’m not saying on every story. But it will be there at the launch.”

    The MinnPost vs. Daily Mole “battle” is not a zero sum game. There is no reason both can’t succeed … or fail. Kramer is carrying much more overhead, something close to $1 million a year, while Perry is playing a variation on the “low expectation game”, as in, “Hey, look what we did with squat and duct tape.”

  • My favorite place to fantasize


    I wrote a piece on Scandinavian furniture/design a while back and, unfortunately, it came off as slighting one of the finest sellers of Scandinavian wares in all the TC land: none other than Danish Teak Classics. This is the place where your visions of a stylish, modern living area can come into focus. Sure, the prices aren’t in line with what you’ll find at cheap-and-cheerful (and chintzy) Ikea. For starters, their stock of furniture has already seen a good fifty years. And from the looks of things, the average DTC piece will enjoy a healthy hundred more. The Rake’s promotions depot is hosting one of its fabulous Gallery Grooves events at Danish Teak Classics on Thursday eve. Check it: Marinade your decorating ideas in a showroom full of vintage-modern chairs, desks, tables, and lighting fixtures. And the event comes replete with fine wine, food, visual art, and jazz to boot. But no vin rouge on the lounge chairs, please. I heart the pink one at left.

  • Cosmetic Dentistry: An Aside

    For more than fifteen years, the gap between my two front teeth has been a source of self-loathing. This is usually how that went: I pore over women’s magazines, never pausing at the pencil-thin thighs but rather marveling at the models’ perfect smiles. Next, I stare at my reflection, puzzling over whether my gap makes me look European (Vanessa Paradis), lusty (Lauren Hutton, Madonna), punk-rock (Mick Jones of The Clash), or just plain hideous. When I see photos of myself, I fix upon the gap-toothed grin rather than, say, the double chins. Call me superficial if you must, but believe you me: Diastema can cramp a girl’s style.

    In 1997, an unfortunate accident involving sangria, polka, and a good-looking Brit left me with a deadened front tooth. One root canal, a crown (which left the gap intact), and ten years later, the Chiclet started to show signs of wear. So, I figured, how harmless would it be to finally close the gap, since I would be replacing my crown anyway? My only complaint is that food sticks to my smile nowadays, whereas I certainly didn’t have that problem before. In any case, je vous presente me and my new, improved front teeth:

    smile.jpg

  • Questions

    masksnap.jpg

    What are the essential songs for a first-rate jukebox?

    If you were to find yourself locked up for the rest of your days with a trio of fourteen-year-olds and a bunch of musical instruments and amplifiers would you join the band or bash out your brains with a tambourine?

    Have you ever heard clearly conspiring voices outside your bedroom window at four a.m. and felt yourself utterly devoid of curiosity or alarm?

    Was there, I often wonder, a great pioneer of profanity? Who coined all those marvelous curse words, or first used them in a pejorative sense? I’d like to make that asshole’s acquaintance. I’d love to have known that fucker. I’d be proud as hell to shake that shitheel’s hand.

    Chandler or Hammett?

    Chaplin or Keaton?

    Cary Grant or Jimmy Stewart?

    Fitzgerald or Hemingway?

    Basie or Ellington?

    Frank Sinatra or Tony Bennett?

    Rolling Stones or the Beatles?

    Charlie Watts or Ringo Starr?

    Replacements or Husker Du?

    Howard Hawks or Preston Sturges?

    Wodehouse or Waugh?

    Spring or Fall?

    Audrey Hepburn or Grace Kelly?

    New York or Paris?

    Sherman or Grant?

    Sam Phillips or Phil Spector?

    Lewis or Martin?

    Williams or Dimaggio?

    Mantle or Mays?

    Leonard or Duran?

    Mitchum or Lancaster?

    SCTV or SNL?

    Maurice Sendak or Dr. Seuss?

    Baseball or football?

    Beethoven or Bach?

    Mozart or Mahler?

    Joe Strummer or Mick Jones?

    Costello or Presley?

    Milton or Dante?

    Nancy or Sluggo?

    Pepsi or Coke?

    Cat or dog?

    Now or later?

    Friend or foe?

    Yes or no?

    This or that?

    Who or who?

    What or what?

  • Exploitation, Misinterpretation, and Segregation — Nothing but Art

    ART
    Where Cigarette Machines Go to Die

    0710artomac.jpgWe’ve all been to the Chambers Hotel and gawked at the fabulous (or at least fabulously expensive) art lining its halls. But Ralph Burnet’s chic lodgings have another amenity that makes fine art a bit more accessible (or maybe that’s acquirable): the Art-o-Mat, described as “the world’s smallest self-contained art gallery.” Invented by Clark Whittington, these converted cigarette machines dispense original works of art for a five-dollar token. After a couple of $12 Bombay To Tokyos at the Chambers’ bar, that kind of investment is a no-brainer. Tonight, join Whittington and local artists as they celebrate the tenth anniversary of this clever machine — and find out how you, too, can become part of the Art-o-Mat stable. –Julia Caniglia

    5:30 – 7:30 p.m., Chambers Hotel, 901 Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis; 612-767-6900.

    FILM
    Groundbreaking Film Exposes Mexican Maquiladoras

    0710maquil.jpgIf you don’t yet know what a maquiladora is, it’s time to educate yourself. And if you do, well then, this is your opportunity to further that knowledge. This evening, the Labor & Community Film Series presents the acclaimed documentary Maquilápolis, a film about Tijuana’s maquiladoras, multinationally-owned factories attracted by Mexico’s cheap labor and tax incentives. In an intimate and empowering new style, filmmakers Vicky Funari and Sergio De La Torre bring together Tijuana factory workers and community organizers “to tell the story of globalization through the eyes and voices of the workers themselves — overwhelmingly women — who have borne the costs but reaped few of the benefits.” We’re not just talking on-camera testimonials and the usual talking heads. I said “new” — and what I refer to here is the current trend of putting cameras into the hands of the subjects. This is the video logging era, folks, and filmmakers world-round are adapting to this in all sorts of manners. Covering a very real and provocative topic, Funari and De La Torre did some very smart edgy thinking to overcome one of the biggest obstacles in any kind of cultural or anthropological discourse — the scientist, the recorder — in this case, the person behind the camera. Two of the women actually created their own video diaries, chronicling their struggles. And the result is a ground-breaking film that embraces subjectivity rather than trying to deny it.

    7 p.m., Waite House Community Center, 2529 13th Ave. S., Minneapolis; free.

    Massive Misinterpretations

    0710bibletells.jpgDoes the Bible really condemn homosexuality? Is homosexuality wrong? Have you still not really made up your mind on this subject? Then you, my friend, are one of the “moveable middle” — the audience that producer/director Daniel Karslake has said he hopes to reach with his new documentary, For the Bible Tells Me So. The thesis of this flick is simple: that the conservative Christian community’s anti-gay sentiments are based on a massive misinterpretation of scripture. Tonight the Lagoon Cinema will host an HRC-sponsored panel discussion after their 7:30 screening. “Moveable”? Come and be swayed one way or the other. Mind made up already? Take part in the (certainly heated) debate. –Danielle Kurtzleben

    7:30, Lagoon Cinema, 1320 Lagoon Ave., Minneapolis; 612-825-6006; $8.25.

    Cinema Lounge

    0710BillPump.jpgFor those of us who have already started having family holiday-induced panic attacks, why is it that Halloween proves nothing more than a sweet distraction from our impending emotional crises? Seek preemptive relief at IFP’s Cinema Lounge, where a trio of devilish shorts and an indie trailer will ease the onset of your Turkey Day flashbacks with werewolves, giant pumpkins, and a docu-style rehash of the infamous pirates vs. zombies pubcrawl dance-off of 2006. The films are free, so pony up for another round of Octoberfest to really savor the moment. There are scant days left till the commercial world unleashes their red and green assault. Revel in the fake blood and rotting flesh while you still can. –Danielle Cabot

    7 p.m., Bryant Lake Bowl, 810 W. Lake St., Minneapolis; 612-825-8949; free.

    BOOKS & AUTHORS
    A Portrait of Segregation

    0710EdJones.jpgJoin best-selling author Edward P. Jones this afternoon as he discusses his latest collection of short stories, All Aunt Hagar’s Children. Bringing back some of the characters from his previous collection, Lost in The City, Jones paints a diverse and detailed portrait of Washington D.C.’s segregated neighborhoods through present day. “Through his stories we meet people struggling with the complex legacy of slavery, the challenges and disappointments of the urban promise, and the inter-racial class prejudice in the black community.” And we’re not just talking your typical fare; the cast of characters includes government workers, churchgoers, dishwashers, doctors, murderers, and even whores.

    2 p.m., University of Minnesota Bookstore, Coffman Memorial Union, 300 Washington Ave. S.E., Minneapolis; 612-626-0559; free.

  • Frontline & "Cheney's Law": A review.

    Tonight. 9 PM, TPT. Ch.2 (Tomorrow, 9 p.m. ch. 17)

    Once whoever comes next and historians begin clearing rubble from the administration of George W. Bush and trying to explain how this disaster happened the smart ones will start by boring into Dick Cheney’s bunker. If there’s any doubt left that Cheney is the ideological and tactical tent pole of the W* circus, tonight’s episode of “Frontline”, called “Cheney’s Law”, strips away another thin layer uncertainty.

    The essence of “Cheney’s Law” is the vice-president’s breathtaking disregard for Constitutional niceties and his aggressive pursuit of highly-parsed, highly self-serving legal opinions. Opinions supporting a broad expansion of executive power in favor of the current administration, with little or none of the required congressional oversight.

    This expansion, steeped in secrecy so strict key players like the Secretary of State (Colin Powell) and National Security Advisor (Condoleeza Rice) were kept out of the loop on the most provocative decisions, extends from Bush’s notorious “signing orders”, vividly detailed in a Pulitzer-winning article by the Boston Globe’s Charlie Savage, coercion of the head of the Office of Legal Counsel, Jack Goldsmith, (with regards to Bush-Cheney’s interpretation laws concerning extraordinary rendition and torture) and a smattering of the squeeze put on the now infamous nine U.S. attorneys shown the door for being insufficiently loyal/acquiescent to the Bush team.

    To the well-informed, little here is new. But the less-than acutely aware will be stunned. It is still astonishing-to-appalling to hear a first-person description of the famous hospital bedside scene with Alberto Gonzalez and White House Chief of Staff Andy Card trying to get then Attorney General John Ashcroft — no one’s idea of an ACLU whacko — to sign off on another extension of a plainly illegal domestic surveillance program.

    Producer Michael Kirk, who has obviously cultivated respect and sources from previous documentaries (“Rumsfeld’s War”, “Endgame”, “The Lost Year in Iraq”), gets Goldsmith, a lifelong ideological conservative — now in the news trying to put distance between himself and what he regards as the Cheney team’s reckless disregard for the rule of law — to talk at length about his experience in the grip of Cheney and David Addington, Cheney’s personal lawyer.

    Author Ron Suskind turns up in support of the basic thesis, that it is Cheney from who policy directives flow, with Bush as little more than a rubber stamp. Suskind, Pulitzer Prize winner and former senior national affairs writer for the Wall Street Journal, is best known for his two most recent books, “The Price of Loyalty” about former Treasury Secretary Paul O’Neill’s brief, unpleasant experience with Cheney and Bush, and the even more jaw-dropping, “One Percent Doctrine”, a genuinely startling behind-the-scenes look at how completely systematized Cheney and Bush’s chief strategist/public sock puppet act has always been.

    (Check out the chapter on then Saudi Crown Prince — now King — Abdullah’s visit to Bush’s Texas ranch for everything you need to know about who is actually running this government, and who pretty much does as he’s told.)

    By now documentaries like this are well past preaching to the hardened choir. A fair number of independents and political agnostics know something is profoundly screwed up, maybe even criminal. “Cheney’s Law” solidifies the “reality” around the last six years.

    (It was Suskind who got the following classic quote from a member of the Bush team:

    “The aide said that guys like me were, ‘in what we call the reality-based community,’ which he defined as people who ‘believe that solutions emerge from your judicious study of discernible reality.’ … ‘That’s not the way the world really works anymore,’ he continued. ‘We’re an empire now, and when we act, we create our own reality. And while you’re studying that reality—judiciously, as you will—we’ll act again, creating other new realities, which you can study too, and that’s how things will sort out. We’re history’s actors…and you, all of you, will be left to just study what we do’.”

    The question for the commercial news media — the vaunted newsrooms of CBS, ABC and NBC — is where are they in raking together all the disparate
    but now available facts on this, dare I say, epic story? True, in 15 minute bits, “60 Minutes” has delivered some goods. But the skeptic in me says commercial news will wait until well after Dick Cheney has left office to program the obvious — if then.

  • Bev's Wine Bar: Haven by the Highway

    skyline2.jpeg

    Back in the late 1990’s, I lived for a year in a house that felt completely wrong. Liminal, oddly oriented. It was set sideways — or rather, along a street that somehow struck me as sideways — on a hill, facing the back parking lot of a school that ran perpendicular. What’s more, the main floor was interrupted by a built-in garage, so it didn’t form a circle or a horse-shoe shape or even an arc. It was an “L” with a little lip where the kitchen had been extended in back.

    Other people thought my home was just fine; they’d comment on the lovely cabinets, the prime location, and the spacious upstairs. But I didn’t trust it, and I spent not one minute in that house that I didn’t feel off. It was as if I were facing the wrong direction or buttoned backward into my clothes.

    Strange, perhaps. But all I’m trying to say is that I notice — unusually so — the way the buildings I occupy are oriented in space.

    Certain places feel right — the bar at jP American Bistro, for instance, which has a calming, nearly reverent sense of balance — whereas others strike me as precarious. While I love the food and admire the décor, 20.21 falls into the latter category. Upon entering its cubic dining area, I always have the tilted sense one gets while standing on one foot.

    Bev’s Wine Bar, unlike my former house, exists in a strangely perfect sideways pocket of space. Tucked behind J.D. Hoyt’s, next to the Washington Avenue on-ramp to I-394, Bev’s is a block of a building with its name painted on the stone exterior and as stark a decorating scheme as I’ve ever seen. When I first walked in last week, I assumed the proprietors were just moving in. . . .or out. . . .The walls are a soft peach verging to pumpkin, half-etched with a leafy stencil of some sort, but otherwise bare. The furnishings are blond wood, the shelves behind the bar mostly empty. I sat in a corner, wondering if there was any wine left or if, perhaps, it had all been drunk except for a bottle of something leftover and sticky, like port.

    Yet, I was quite happy sitting there, looking out oversize windows at the Minneapolis skyline and rush hour traffic bumping like little train cars onto the freeway ramp. And when the waiter came, I discovered Bev’s did still have wines after all — not so many as you might expect at a wine bar, but I’ve decided over the years that this is fine. Sometimes it’s better. A shorter wine list, carefully assembled, can be a soothing thing, and it was. I tried the “Bev’s Red,” a Protocolo Vino La Tierra de Castilla 2005, which sold for $5.95 a glass. It was like a dry cigar on the tongue, full of cardboard, tobacco, and crumbly soil, then fruit. Mostly dark cherry.

    On a whim, then, because it’s very easy to feel whimsical while sitting in a small, well-slanted place with great music (the soundtrack from Once happened to be playing, which made me quite happy), I switched to white. First, I had a taste of the Amano Fiano Greco 2006, which has a nose of pure banana, then a fruity apricot flavor and a finish that vanishes like a poof of dust. I’m not wild about bananas, so I passed on this one. However, the second white I tried, a Farnese Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2006 from Tuscany was exactly to my taste: as clean as wind, smooth but flinty, with a crisp ascending pear-to-melon flavor that I found nearly musical. Trebbiano typically is a very ordinary grape — and it’s not held in high regard by most connoisseurs — but the Farnese is a perennial award-winner, and for good reason. At $7.50 a glass, it’s quite a deal.

    It turned out the young-looking guy wearing a faded t-shirt and standing behind the bar was the owner of Bev’s, Peter Karihara. And he is neither moving in nor moving out, he just likes to keep the place Spartan. In fact, Bev’s has been there, in that smoky little nick of downtown, serving a short list of wines, beers, and baguettes with Brie, for the past 13 years. Karihara also owns Moose & Sadie’s and Jetset, a gay dance club and bar on North First. “There is no Bev, not really,” Karihara told me. He named the place after the mother of a friend of his, a woman who liked wine. “It just sounded so cool: Bev’s Wine Bar. Don’t you think?” Then he grinned.

    I can’t tell you why one slanty, sideways place will make me feel queasy while another seems utterly grounded, as organic as if it had sprung from the concrete whole. All I know is that as Bev’s filled on a Friday evening in fall, it felt warm and safe. A strangely simple little haven off the highway, set apart from the chaos outside.