Some people attempt to spite the French by pouring out red wine and voting against John Kerry. Other people believe that a little smirk while enjoying an American version of coq au vin is just as effective. Salut Bar Americaine in Edina celebrates the French and sticks it to them at the same time. Warm, Gruyre-filled gougres appear on the menu as Les Cheesy Puffs, next to the more traditional and buttery escargot bourguignonne. If you prefer your French food more recognizably Amricaine, choose a rich and hearty duck a l’orange or Le Cheeseburger Royale, served beautifully on a ciabatta roll with a side of the classic steak frites. Sunday brunch features a creamy, custardy quiche Lorraine, which reminds us how long French cuisine has been part of the American diet–how can even the most reactionary of diners not enjoy it? 5034 France Ave. S., Edina; 952-929-3764
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