Green is God

I never expected to find love at a roadside market. In Florida, no less. But there, down an aisle from stacks of bright oranges and piles of juicy grapefruit, was a small, plastic tub of guacamole so smooth and delicious, so perfectly spiced, that I fell head over heels. It’s uncommon to find guacamole that truly lives up to the beauty of a fresh, buttery avocado. Most end up as blobby, over-whipped, mousse-like concoctions that carry no punch. Yet, this roadside gem was a chunky mash of silky avocado pieces and bright bursts of citrus, with a subtle undercurrent of heat. It’s unfortunate that I have forgotten the name and location of the market, because I fear that the memory of that guacamole will never go away.
I’m not alone in my devotion to the odd, nubby fruit and its offspring dip. The avocado has been thought to be an aphrodisiac for ages. The Aztecs saw it as a fertility symbol, naming it ahuacatl, meaning “testicle,” most likely because of its shape. Some stories even relate an ancient custom of locking up the virgins during harvest time. The sexy fruit’s reputation has proven hard to shake. It wasn’t until the 1920s, when American growers spun a virtuous public-relations campaign, that good citizens felt able to purchase the fruit without fear of damaging their reputations. There’s little doubt that the avocado has hit the mainstream: more are consumed on Super Bowl Sunday than any other day, including Cinco de Mayo. On that special Sunday, it is estimated that fans will consume nearly fifty million pounds of avocado, enough to cover a football field with close to twelve feet of guacamole.
There are two main varieties of avocado grown in this country, Fuerte and Hass. The Fuerte tree is largely credited with creating the California avocado industry, which supplies roughly ninety percent of the country’s crop. Among a group of such trees once brought up from Mexico, only one survived the great freeze of 1913. It was named Fuerte, the Spanish word for “vigorous.” All Hass avocado trees can be traced back to a single “mother tree” planted in La Habra Heights, California, by a mail carrier named Rudolph Hass, who patented his tree in 1935. The original tree, which spawned thousands more, died of root rot in 2002.
It’s important to understand the splendor of avocados beyond guacamole. More than a few Californians have recounted memories of eating the fruit from their own backyards, simply scooping out the flesh with a spoon and maybe adding a dash of salt. In solid, un-mashed form, a slice of avocado on a piece of crusty bread lives up to its Chinese name of “butter fruit.” The beauty lies in its mild flavor and soft-yet-firm texture, which provides a welcome contrast to a salty Cobb salad or a thick turkey sandwich.
To the world and its chefs, the avocado is a much-loved ingredient. Who doesn’t adore a sushi roll that contains a sliver of avocado? Balanced superbly with raw tuna in the Four Seasons roll from Bagu Sushi, the avocado nicely complements a swath of flying fish roe. In the restaurant’s French Kiss roll, plump with crab, asparagus, and cream cheese, it adds just the right touch of buttery lightness. Though I haven’t found a great example locally, one of the most refreshing desserts I’ve ever had was a Filipino drink made with avocados and ice cream.
Sometimes it’s simplicity that helps the avocado shine. The linked restaurants of Zelo, Bacio, and Ciao Bella have a salad called the Brasiliana, in which cubes of ripe avocado mingle with small palm hearts, chunks of tomato, and slices of onion and celery in a tart lemon vinaigrette. In each simple-yet-elegant bite, the avocado nearly melts with the citrus and softens the slight crunch and tang of the palm heart. While not intricate, the dish celebrates the avocado’s strengths. The 112 Eatery offers a more surprising use of the fruit that is no less graceful. Their crostini, with white anchovies and avocado, pits the dusky and briny against the fresh and bright, creating an engaging bite. If you’ve fallen hard for guacamole, and all other uses for the avocado seem ridiculous, I hear you. For ease and accessibility, as well as freshness, you can’t do better than Chipotle. Squelch your hate of chain establishments: Their bright green guac is made often and made well. If the need is less urgent, and the situation calls for a more refined atmosphere, Masa’s Guacamole Picado hits the mark. Tart and chunky, you’ll want to eat it with the chips, the veggies, and even a spoon. For a good show and a little instruction on perfect mashing, check out the legendary tableside guac at Tejas, where they know how to work the mortar and pestle.
It’s rare to find two people who like their guacamole exactly the same way. The key to having great guac may be the key to all great relationships: Keep it fresh. Possibly the best option is to bring home a bag of avocados, tuck into the kitchen, and create your own guacamole, one that will keep you coming back for more. Just don’t over-mash.

Guacamole
3 ripe avocados
Juice from 1 medium lime
1/4 cup chopped white onion
3/4 cup freshly chopped cilantro
1 tsp. crushed red pepper
Salt and pepper to taste
Set aside one pit after scooping out avocados. Throw avocado and all other ingredients together and lightly mash with a fork. Depending on your preference, you may want to add tomatoes or use jalapenos. Add the spare pit (to help keep the guac green), cover, and let sit for a bit before serving.

SHOP TALK
If you haven’t checked in at Solera in a while, the new seasonal/neuva tapas list—modern small plates inspired by the cuisines of Spain—are worth a fresh visit. Included are wine-braised rabbit with chocolate and citrus and deviled eggs with blue crab and cumin. Yes, please! If, like me, you’re not keen on decisions, the chef will design for you a tasting menu of eight pieces for under $30 (solera-restaurant.com) … From February 23–25, the Minneapolis Convention Center will be packed to the rafters with noshers and snackers looking for the best bite our towns have to offer—in other words, it’s time once again for the Twin Cities Food and Wine Experience. See foodwineshow.com for details … Don’t forget that the St. Paul Farmers’ Market (stpaulfarmersmarket.com) has winter hours, Saturdays from 9 a.m. to noon. The bounty of local cheeses, baked goods, meats, eggs and chocolates will help remind you that there will be a thaw. … The culinary outings at Stillwater’s Outing Lodge (outinglodge.com) are both creative and tasty. This month’s “Food for Lovers” dinner on Valentine’s Day includes oysters and chocolate, while the Mardi Gras ball on February 20 celebrates that last great meal before Lent with lobster bisque, escargot, and foie gras.

CUISINE SUPREME
Temple Bar and Restaurant
A stellar Asian restaurant has been one of the major things missing from the downtown Minneapolis scene. Tom Pham, the force behind Azia, has filled the need with Temple. Sultry and opulent, Temple took over the old Tiburon space and kept the giant fish tank, now filled with huge, colorful Koi. The menu’s French/Indonesian focus is apparently inspired by Pham’s grandmother, but it also plays with other flavors. Small-plate standouts include the refreshing scallop ceviche with Asian pear salad, and the more decadent pan-roasted quail with duck liver ravioli. Tea-roasted pork tenderloin, a beautiful champagne-poached salmon, and amazingly tender Mandarin orange-braised short ribs are all great options for bigger plates, but pass on the stone-grilled Kobe, which doesn’t live up to the price. As at Azia, the saucily named drinks are just as important as the food: try the Innocent Geisha or When Anton Met Gwenevere for an interesting night. 1201 Harmon Place, Minneapolis; 612-767-3770; www.mplstemple.com

The General Store Café
Longtime patrons of this Minnetonka retail institution know that a perfect end to a flurry of spending is a quiet table and some freshly made fare. Hearty sandwiches on Breadsmith loaves, baked daily, are piled high with just about whatever you want. Soups and other specials change daily, although the ginger-laced chicken salad is so popular that it seems to stay year-round. For dessert, dense cakes and a legendary bread pudding are rivaled only by a well-rounded selection of Sebastian Joe’s ice cream. 14401 Highway 7, Minnetonka; 952-935-7131; www.generalstoreofminnetonka.com

Bascali’s Brick Oven
Sometimes the pizza is not the reason to go to a pizza joint—even when it’s brick-oven pizza. Because, while good pizza can be had everywhere, good calzones are rare. And at Bascali’s, a little hole in the wall in St. Paul, the calzones will capture your heart. Slowly baked in an imported Italian brick oven, the calzones emerge with a crispy outer crust and fresh ingredients inside that are tender and avoid the soupiness that plague lesser calzones. Especially recommended are the pungent California chicken version with pesto and garlic and the classic sausage- and pepper-filled Italiano; but the owners wisely include the option to create your own as well. 1552 Como Ave., St. Paul; 651-645-6617; www.bascalis.com www.bascalis.com