In Spanish we say: “confundir la gimnasia con la magnesia.” It means because two words sound alike their meaning is not the same. I expect a seasoned food critic like Mr. Iggers to know the difference between “marinara” and “marinera.” (“The Up-side of Groupthink,” September) They belong in two very different cuisines. The idea that tomato-based sauces appear often in Spanish cuisine is a generalized “ugly American” myth that appears in dishes such as “Spanish rice,” which in Spain is called “American rice.” (The dish is hideous regardless of the name or where it is cooked.) I hope Mr. Iggers is more influenced by food than by myth. The thought of a paella marinara causes permanent damage to my appetite.
Year: 2007
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“We Was Right All Along”
On a perfectly sunny day for a baseball game, as thousands of fans swarmed to the dust heap that is to be the future home of the new Twins Stadium, a good half-mile away a small but dedicated group of curmudgeons gathered outside Cuzzy’s Bar on Washington Avenue. They were preparing for their own little celebration. “We’re geniuses, you know,” boasted Julian Loscalzo, chewing on a fat cigar and quaffing the first of many beers. “My good, personal friend Sid Hartman used to call us geniuses, back when he was all for the Dome,” he explained, his words punctuated by hoarse laughter. “We’ve proven him wrong by actually being geniuses.”
Loscalzo used to be a beer vendor at ballgames and other sports events around town; now he works as a tour guide, hauling paying guests around the country to see outdoor baseball, and counts selling parking spaces at the State Fair among his many other occupations. He is also the de facto leader of the Save the Met organization. This is the same ragtag collection of baseball cranks that tilted at windmills in the mid-1970s, hoping to persuade the Twins to remain at the scenic Metropolitan Stadium rather than move to the Metrodome. All these years later, Loscalzo and Co. are feeling a tad vindicated by the Dome’s impending obsolescence. Thus, a “We Was Right All Along” march down to the new stadium site was in order, replete with an old “Save the Met” banner from someone’s attic and well-preserved T-shirts bearing the same slogan, along with the likeness of the Twins’ old haunt.
Michael Samuelson (“Sammy” to friend and foe alike), was part of the original sturm und drang, going so far at one point as to vow publicly never to set foot in the Dome. “And I didn’t go for two years,” he claimed. But, he noted, his love of the game overwhelmed his principles—and besides, “if it weren’t for the Dome, I would never have met my wife.” Loscalzo shook his head. “I never made the promise that I wouldn’t go. I knew better. I’m a big fan.”
The “We Was Right” march didn’t amount to anything resembling, say, the recent Critical Mass bicycle gathering that sent not a few people to the clink for a long weekend. In fact, the Save the Met group kept to the sidewalks and their banner remained under wraps until they reached the construction site. Probably their only transgression involved chugging cans of Gluek beer in public.
Once at the site, the clan gave some weak cheers to other protesters who were unable to enter the ceremony, whose handmade placards read “Foul!” and “Corporate Welfare,” among other admonishments. Although the Twins security granted access to the Save-the-Metters, Loscalzo paused and considered, instead hanging the sign on a fence. “I don’t know if I have the stomach to go in there.”
Inside, there was little strife. In front of a large stage, a temporary diamond was set up, with actual Major League bases and thick swaths of deep green sod, all of which was surrounded by bleachers. Fans of every stripe were on hand, taking photos of dirt, eating dollar dogs and brats, and watching videos touting the new arena. Most of the crowd was suited up from a day of work, but there were also families in from the ’burbs and bicyclists galore—lines of bikes were chained to the fences. A few protesters stood on the Seventh Street overpass, trying desperately to get their message across; one sign read “Make necessary bridge repairs, not war.” But the amplified speeches by Twins alumni—not to mention the steady din of the garbage incinerator next door—kept their shouts from being heard below.
One fan, Willie Rauen, an elderly gentleman from Pine Island, was holding aloft an old seatback from Met Stadium. He’d yanked it out during the last game ever played at the Met, which happened to be a Vikings and Kansas City Chiefs game. “Some guy had a wrench, and I took my seat,” Rauen crowed. “Others went crazy. They took toilets!” The front of Rauen’s seat—Number 8, “by the first base side”—was autographed by various Twins from that era, including Harmon Killebrew, Tony Oliva, and Rod Carew; Rauen was determined to get the front autographed by current Twins when the new stadium opens. “This is a pretty good piece of history here.”
As Commissioner of Baseball Bud Selig began to speak—among other comments, he inexplicably suggested that the best thing about the groundbreaking was that it made Carl Pohlad smile—a chant emanated from the back of the crowd. “Con-trac-tion!” bellowed the Save the Met group, and this time they were joined by a larger crowd with still more beers. Loscalzo received hugs from a number of women. Someone blew a raspberry. A man who looked very Wall Street shouted, “Give me a tomato and I’ll hurl it at ’im!” Finally, Loscalzo beamed at the small crowd that had gathered around him to admire the banner, which, he claimed, had been to the Baseball Hall of Fame. He toasted it with his Budweiser. “We made it,” he said, wearily. “Thirty fucking years.”
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Bruce Tapola: Paintings for Germans, Sculpture for Snobs
If you’re going to be in Rochester for your annual colonoscopy, brighten the occasion with a trip to the Rochester Art Center to see the always interesting work of Bruce Tapola, Minnesota’s most famous somewhat-obscure artist. Venues ranging from esteemed institutes of art (in Milwaukee and Minneapolis) to a rented U-Haul parked in front of the Walker Art Center have spread his fame. Recent outings in Miami and Minneapolis, and a collaborative installation with his wife and daughter called I’m With Stupid, have enabled Tapola to further develop his broad range of media-inflected moody imagery. Here he again hammers on the closed gates of American culture, with his ambivalent cry: “I love you! I hate you! I love you!” 40 Civic Center Dr. S.E., Rochester; 507-282-8629; www.rochesterartcenter.org
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Georgia O’Keeffe: Circling Around Abstraction
This is a strongly curated show—just as the Walker’s recent Picasso exhibition was. Both venture to transform familiar work by presenting it with vigorous scholarship and a fresh eye. In this case, the focus is on the circle—the paradigmatic composition in many of O’Keeffe’s abstractions—and it’s a valuable insight that had been lying there in plain sight but had not been picked up. Through this frame, O’Keeffe’s work is stripped of any potential mawkishness and restored to living status. What’s more, these curator-driven shows are fun even if you’re not a huge fan of the artist because the thought behind them amplifies the effect of the work—like a lens that suddenly sharpens. 612-870-3131; www.artsmia.org
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Bird x Bird
More fun than a flock of starlings! This improbably cool event is a snowballing phenomenon. Artists passionate about something besides art. A show that’s rife with feeling. The only unusual thing is—jeez, Minnesota!—the dearth of collectors in the mix. For God’s sake, people, this show brings together some wonderfully skilled artists. And it doubles as an auction to support bird-related causes (it’s organized by a nonprofit that “links the collective action of artists to organizations dedicated to the stewardship of avian species”). So show up already, get bargains, and meet a lot of interesting-looking folk. 1500 Jackson St. N.E., #322; Minneapolis; 952-994-0914; www.birdxbird.org
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Daniel Mason: New Paintings
By now, most of us have read Harry Potter. And there are differences between that parallel world and those of yore. Namely, in the ’60s, the parallel world was real, created through individual skill and grace. It was J. D. Salinger’s Upper West Side; or it was on the roads and streets of Kerouac and Ginsberg, the address of people with greater reserves of appetite and heedlessness. Readers could enter if they learned the skills, took the leap. But there’s no way to become a wizard. Dan Mason’s paintings present a parallel world, too, but it’s one that’s findable somewhere on this globe. His blocky cities and landscapes shimmer in colors that can be sought, through travel or the pharmacopoeia, in real time. 530 N. Third St., B10, Minneapolis; 612-338-3656; www.thomasbarry.com
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Honorable Exit
My mother took me on a wild, unforgettable ride the morning she died. Drugged and nearly comatose for about twenty-four hours, she suddenly started breathing heavily, opened her dull, mucus-covered eyes, and began writhing her shoulders off the bed. I was holding her hand, and she gripped me so hard that her bones stabbed painfully into my palm. This intense, disquieting resistance lasted between five and ten minutes, and then Jeanne Northridge Robson was dead from cancer at age fifty-nine.
Nearly twenty years later, I can say it was the last of many incredible gifts she bestowed upon me. I’d anticipated a subdued, imperceptible death; the nurse would come in and check for a pulse, whisper the news, and then pull the sheet up over the body. I’d coated my thoughts with that scenario the way one applies sunscreen on the way to the beach. But my mother burned through the balm and peeled away some mystery for me. She showed me how you can be alive one minute and dead, tangibly dead, the next. Ever since that morning, I have urged friends to be present, if at all possible, when someone they love dies. My younger sister, the only other person in the room at the time, changed her career to hospice work.
Among all of the claptrap surrounding death in our culture, only some of it involves our fears and ignorance of the dying process. Much of it is more ignoble, tied up in melodrama and titillation. “Gawker slowdown” describes a certain type of traffic jam, but that term also factors into the way we patronize artists, being drawn magnetically to those who die tragically and early. Every generation has a few potently dead icons (James Dean, Jack Kerouac, Janis Joplin, Kurt Cobain, et al.) whose live-fast, die-young biographies are seductive to fledgling artists at least in part because of the promise of self-destruction as a lazy shortcut to celebrity.
Among jazz artists, the most insidious icon of this type was Charlie Parker. Heralding the revolution of bebop, he had the perfect sobriquet—Bird—because his alto saxophone solos could levitate and veer and soar like none before him. But Bird was flighty in other ways, too; he was a man of great appetites and impulses, and died of drug addiction in 1955 at the age of thirty-four. Dozens of talented musicians emulated his heroin use in the mistaken belief that it might unlock some of the secrets of his artistry.
Whether he fell prey to Parker’s mystique in particular or the ravages of the jazz life in general, John Coltrane was among those addicted to heroin and alcohol in the 1950s. After celebrating his sobriety with the classic A Love Supreme in 1964, Coltrane became more overtly spiritual; Ascension in particular is unremitting in its intensity and became a hallmark of late ’60s avant-garde for its “sheets of sound” saxophone wail. In 1967, in the midst of this obsessive and uncommonly beautiful spiritual journey, Coltrane’s death at age 40 from a liver ailment put an immediate and lasting luster on his legacy. It is no coincidence that Ken Burns’s PBS series on jazz—probably the closest thing we have to a historical overview of the music for the masses—states that “John Coltrane was, after Charlie Parker, the most widely imitated saxophonist in jazz.”
One wonders if Burns would still be making that claim had ’Trane lived to a ripe old age, and another saxophonist of that era—say, Sonny Rollins or Wayne Shorter—had died young instead, in the midst of one of his own high-profile, quickening phases. In the wake of Parker’s death, Rollins (born just four years after Coltrane) was generally regarded as the new saxophone king. Academics transcribed his thrilling improvisations and revealed them to be geometrically pristine, compositions of integrity conjured on the fly. Today, at seventy-seven, Rollins continues to top critics’ polls and is generally regarded as the most compelling soloist in jazz. Meanwhile, Shorter, due to both his brilliance as a composer and his acute intuition as a player, has dramatically raised the caliber of any ensemble he joins. It happened to Art Blakey’s Jazz Messengers in the ’50s, the Miles Davis quintet in the ’60s, and Weather Report in the ’70s. Today, at seventy-four, his Wayne Shorter Quartet is probably the most intellectually rigorous and rewarding ensemble in jazz.
These comparisons certainly aren’t meant to denigrate Parker or Coltrane. But how clearly would we peg their influence if, instead of dying at thirty-four and forty, they’d each lived another forty years? What if they’d gone on to respond to the music’s artistic ferment on a day-to-day and year-to-year basis, if they’d had to face challenges from younger generations—even as they struggled to remain vibrant and innovative through the watershed perspective of middle age and beyond? The point is, the persevering excellence of Rollins and Shorter is equally heroic, and should be equally emblematic of jazz sainthood.
Which is why, while it’s an admittedly macabre notion, I hope that Rollins and/or Shorter have the foreknowledge and facility to deliver artistic works influenced by their impending mortality. Put bluntly, I want them to make music that shows an awareness that they are dying. It doesn’t have to be soon—may they both live to one hundred. But it seems only just that death should come forth in art that reflects the tangible reality of old age and disease as well as the romantic titillation of youthful tragedy.
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Beyond the Bakery
It has long been held that aroma is one of the most powerful triggers of memory. This fact seems especially salient in October, recalled every time I catch a whiff of cinnamon. Sharp blue skies, sweaters unearthed from storage, the return of thick soups and roasts and quick breads on cool, oven-friendly afternoons make this my favorite month. Cinnamon invokes the memory of a breezy apple orchard scattered with brilliant fallen leaves in the fading autumn light, a golden afternoon forever linked to the golden spice.
Cinnamon has been prized since antiquity. Pliny the Elder recorded in the first century AD that cinnamon was worth fifteen times the value of silver by weight. The Eastern traders who first brought cinnamon to the West closely guarded its true origin. By shrouding it in mystery and myth, they ensured their monopoly on the spice, as well as its mystique. Herodotus told of the fiery phoenix that made her nest from cinnamon sticks. Harvesters tried to offer the bird large gifts which they hoped, when brought back to the nest, would cause the nest to collapse, thus permitting them to gather the golden sticks.
In truth, cinnamon isn’t really a stick—it’s bark. The first cinnamon, or “true cinnamon,” came from the inner skin of an evergreen tree native to Sri Lanka (once known as Ceylon). Now referred to as Ceylon cinnamon, it is still highly prized throughout the world. More common in the U.S. is cassia cinnamon, native to Southeast Asia. Whereas Ceylon tends to be a complex, less sweet cinnamon with notes of citrus, cassia carries the smooth and spicy-sweet flavors Americans are used to. A tree cannot be harvested for cinnamon until it’s around thirty years old. From the topmost branches, harvesters carefully cut the inner bark, which naturally curls into quills, or sticks. The bark destined to be ground into powder is cut in larger pieces from the lower, older parts of the tree, where the flavor is stronger.
For many, the aroma of cinnamon is inexorably tied to sweets and treats: from cinnamon rolls and sticky buns to an apple brown Betty. One of my earliest memories is of waking up to a heaping mound of monkey bread, the pull-apart castle of dough balls drenched in a cinnamon glaze. From apple pancakes to pumpkin cupcakes to chocolate-chip cookies, there’s almost nothing I’ll bake this month that won’t contain some measure of cinnamon.
But as the rest of the world knows, the golden spice has a life outside the bakery case as a key ingredient in savory dishes. Middle Eastern and North African cooks use it to flavor tagines, even lamb-filled pastries, and pilafs. It is featured in Indian spice blends such as curry and garam masala. The woody, earthy flavor of the spice makes it a natural for long, slow-cooked meats, like short-ribs braised in cinnamon and Guinness. When I slip it into chili, people are surprised, and sometimes maybe even a bit proud when they identify—and enjoy—that additional depth.
Pork Tenderloin with Cinnamon and Apples
Serves 4
2 lb. pork tenderloin
4 Tbsp. soy sauce
2 Tbsp. cinnamon
2 Tbsp. brown sugar
1/2 tsp. salt
2 Tbsp. mirin rice wine
1 tsp. powdered ginger
2 tsp. Dijon mustard
2 tsp. lemon juice4 Tbsp. butter
4 peeled , chopped green apples
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. cayenne
1 tsp. powdered gingerPreheat oven to 325 degrees. Place pork in baking dish. In a bowl, add soy sauce, cinnamon, sugar, salt, mirin, ginger, mustard, and lemon and mix well. Pour over pork and chill for at least one hour, turning once to recoat. Bake until pork’s inner temperature reaches 155 degrees. Take out and let rest for five minutes.
For apples: Melt butter in medium sauté pan over medium-high heat, add apples and spices. Toss to coat and sauté until apples are just beginning to soften. Remove from heat and serve over the pork.
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Something for the Weekend
A prophet is not without honor, save in her own country and among her own people. One of life’s perennial puzzles is why people in the United States do not seem to read the wonderful novels of Alison Lurie, the sharp-eyed rhapsode of Ithaca, New York.
Every good paperback emporium in England stocks Alison Lurie; you will find her even among the horrid throng and press of Gatwick Aerodrome. But in Minnesota I find her slim volumes elusive. We are divided, as is so often the case, by a common language. Perhaps Americans find Alison Lurie too cruel to be entertaining.
Or maybe it is simply a matter of size. English readers are content to fill up for the weekend with the concentrated spirit of a Penelope Lively or the Welsh wit of Alice Thomas Ellis, whereas the American has greater staying power and prefers to imbibe great Proustian draughts, like a Detroit dragon at a petrol pump. Whenever I hear the word blockbuster, it is of the engine blocks of such mighty motors that I think.
Let me, en tout cas, commend to you Professor Lurie’s Imaginary Friends, a tale of a millenarian cult in upstate New York the denouement of which (it would be deeply unkind to reveal in advance) does little for the reputation of the social science known as religious studies (as distinct from theology, Queen of the Sciences, with its lofty truths and profound heffalump traps).
Or my own particular favorite, Foreign Affairs, a novel about an American spinster professor who spends her summers reading in the British Library and has a positively Janeite capacity for observing the rest of the human race. She needs all her powers of penetration. The American characters are straightforward enough; they have one personality each. But the English all have at least two: The posh lady turns out to have a second life as a cleaning woman; even the dogs have multiple personalities. Nothing is what it seems to be. Honest folk who tell the truth are at a disadvantage.
Art reflects life. There are, after all, precious few straight lines in nature. The Monarch butterfly takes a distinctly wobbly course through life but manages to migrate successfully over many thousands of miles. To be sure, the Romans, straightforward folk, laid out their cities as tidy-minded oblongs, making their outlines instantly recognizable from the air, even when (jam seges est ubi Troia fuit) they lie now under farmers’ fields. But the Greeks knew how to marry the apparent irregularity of nature to the elegance of mathematics. Bicycle down Bryant Avenue South between Franklin and Lake and enjoy the Ionic columns that support the porches of many of the older houses. The spiral volutes at the top of each column are an ancient Greek design derived originally from rams’ horns and deliberately patterned in the pleasing ratio of 1:1.618, what they call the “golden section.” There is more in nature than meets the eye.
Which is why it is a substantial pleasure to recommend a straightforward wine that tells the truth. St. Francis “Old Vines” zinfandel from Sonoma County provides (for around twenty dollars a bottle) considerable delight but no surprises. The color is a good dark red, the nose strong and as fruity as black currants. The flavor carries through precisely the promise of the smell; an initial sweetness recalls the clarets of Pomerol. There is a good gravelly center to the taste and afterward there lingers a strong redolence of alcohol (15.8% by volume, according to the label). As the wine sits, the sweetness gives way to simple strength, but it still pleases; it does not bully. It would make pleasant company equally for roast beef or an omelet, even for Welsh Dragon Sausages (recently withdrawn from sale on the orders of the Common Market on the grounds that they contain no dragon meat. Yes, really).
Of course, there are complexities here if you want to look for them. St. Francis was not the pantheistic bunny-hugger of common supposition. Nor is the Sonoma Valley a flat Jeffersonian chessboard. More interesting, the zinfandel old vines have a history. The variety came to California from New England in the slipstream of the Gold Rush, and, in the past few years, DNA analysis has shown that it is actually the Primitivo, a grape that grows prolifically on the coastal plain running up the stocking seam of the leg of Italy; its ultimate origin seems to be a Croatian variety called crljenak kastelanski. Yes, I have spelled it right. But why worry? Pour yourself a glass and settle into a soft chair with Alison Lurie. Together they should see you through a long weekend.
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Morning Migration
Things are getting back to normal now. The collapse of the bridge was two months ago, and except for the families of the dead and injured, we Minnesotans have moved on. The Legislature had its special session and funds were approved for southeastern Minnesota flood relief, but the gas tax is where it was before the bridge fell, and the roads continue to deteriorate.
It’s difficult to be optimistic in Minnesota in October. The days shorten and get colder. The daily walk around the lake with the dog starts to chap the lips. If you do it after work, it’s dark by the time you get home. If you do it in the morning, it’s dark when you start. The entire traverse begins to remind you that winter is coming and the days of dry macadam stretching ahead of your easy gait are numbered. In fact, the newly installed blacktop path is itself a reminder of your government making yet another wrong move by paving over the soft wood-chip surface the walkers and runners preferred.
Still, the walk is worth the effort. Pounds begin to fall away. Familiarity with the more obscure entries in your music collection increases, courtesy of the one hour of iPod shuffle. Horowitz piano concertos follow Willie Dixon’s “I Ain’t Superstitious.” The Gipsy Kings singing “My Way” in Spanish into your earphones drowns out the tires humming up Franklin Avenue toward downtown.
The earnest industry of Minnesotans often comes to mind as you watch the drivers who have avoided the freeway and nudge their way to their parking stalls via the neighborhood streets. Up the lake roads they come, only a few stop signs and occasional dog walkers crossing the street interrupting the resolute journey to the office. On a recent day, Lake of the Isles Parkway stacked up ten cars at the perfunctory north end stop sign while a father on a bike guided his three young charges on their bikes, each with streamers on its handlebar grips, across Franklin toward the neighborhood school. Further down the west side of the lake, a family parade of ducks briefly stopped a few walkers in their tracks. As soon as the babies are better fliers, they’ll be leaving. Soon after that, Sun Country flights to Florida will begin to fill up as well.
Surely many of the runners you see every day beating the narrow dirt path next to the asphalt are training for this month’s marathon. They run on the dirt because the blacktop is too hard on the ankles, knees and shins. They miss the wood chips more than you do. You see different people depending on the time of day you pass. The earlier you go, the faster the runners. Between six and seven are the most determined. If you are sleepy and don’t get out until near eight, the real runners are done—replaced by the middle-aged women walking and talking in pairs and the overweight joggers with terrible running form, but still with more ambition than you, who maintains the leisurely eighteen-minute-mile pace.
The dog’s daily routine is even more constant than yours. He urinates within two blocks of the house, and defecates soon after. You smile every time you think of the odd symmetry of using the bag that wrapped that morning’s Star Tribune to pick up after him.
The dog and the music are your companions. You make eye contact with surprisingly few oncoming fellow travelers. Some eyes brighten, but many ignore or even glare at your proffered smile. They’re focused on their walk, their music, or their dog tugging at his leash to make friends with your dog. Can’t have that. Your dog doesn’t care to make friends anyway. There’s only one jogger who regularly interrupts his private revelry long enough to fish a small Milk Bone out of his belly pouch for your dog and a few words about the weather for you.
That’s the break you need, though, from the fretting that, as soon as the walk is done, you’ll be showering, dressing, and joining the cars on their way past your house to downtown. The one hour daily vacation isn’t long enough. You need at least ten days in a country where you can’t speak the language.