Fugaise

The name, French slang for a fake diamond, implies gaudiness, but this new French restaurant is nothing but elegance. Chef/owner Don Saunders crafts simple dishes with sumptuous details. Even the salads dazzle: Mixed greens are dressed with a light and toasty hazelnut vinaigrette; a steak salad is mobbed by crispy fried shallots. With the inclusion of a poached egg and truffle oil, the potato-leek chowder redefines the genre. Entrees showcase ingredients rarely seen but most welcome in these parts: the Burgundy snail butter served with halibut, or the hedgehog mushrooms that provide a nest for a ribeye. The simple, windowless space is a bit spartan during lunch, but the evening brings glowing candles and well-heeled diners. 308 Hennepin Ave. E., Minneapolis; 612-436-0777; www.fugaise.com