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  • Love Tore Him Apart

    Control is now playing at the Uptown Theatre.

    There is a wonderful moment the amazing bio-pic Control where Ian Curtis, lead singer of Joy Division, walks to work from his parents home in suburban Manchester.
    He has a job at a government employment agency, trying to help people
    get on their feet. As he trudges through his quiet neighborhood, the
    camera follows him, slowly, revealing Ian to be wearing a jacket with
    the word "Hate" in white tape on his back. Curtis is young, so young,
    barely 18 and already married, a child on the way and a three-ring
    binder full of lyrics that would shake the world. But, the director,
    Anton Corbijn has no use for the usual hysterics that would accompany
    such a scene: Curtis is not gaped at as he walks around with Hate on
    his coat, nor is he frowned upon by old biddies and squares who can’t
    understand the raging poet. No, he nods hello to people, walks into
    work, takes his coat off and begins. This is simply another day, with
    real people, the same mundane reality that we all slog through, and the
    one that inspired, and perhaps undid Ian Curtis.

    Control is not a story of a young man raging against a society that does not understand him. If Control is to be believed (and I believe it wholeheartedly) Curtis does not hate the world, in spite of what his jacket says. Hate and frustration and an elusive loneliness grip him. But he cannot bring himself to loathe those kind people in his life. Perhaps, then he will have to hate himself.

    Control is a meditation on a singer who you might say felt too much. Ian Curtis looked out his window at skies that were endlessly gray, at a wife who slept next to him and baffled him, and at a lover who inflamed him and left him equally baffled and was moved to write songs. Great songs. He was able to momentarily bat away the angst of youth onstage. Curtis worked at an employment agency and helped, really helped those poor souls who came to him feeling broken down by unemployment. He admired his parents, and wished he could get away. But when faced with that opportunity, he killed himself.

    Directed by Anton Corbijn, who photographed Joy Division all those years ago (they thrived from 1976-1980, when Curtis committed suicide), Control reflects Corbijn’s deep respect for his subject. It perfectly examines the life that inspired the lyrics, and it respects the fact that we will never quite know the artist nor where he dug his inspiration from. We are given the big moments that fans of Joy Division fans long for: the marriage, the first studio session, the contract–literally signed in blood–with Factory Records that would make them stars, at least in England. We see the concerts, with Curtis dancing like a machine and gripping the mic for dear life. And we are given the small details that make one feel the torment that gripped Curtis and enriched the music he wrote: listening to David Bowie in his bedroom with the dim light from yet another cloudy day; a pint with his friends at the bar, or getting blitzed on stolen prescription drugs and wondering if that will be the sum of your days; dinner with the family you love but want to scream at for failing you in ways you can barely define yourself.

    Why did Ian Curtis commit suicide on the eve of Joy Division’s American tour? Did he wish he could stay married and have a mistress on the side? Did his epileptic fits give him a terror of his own body? Or did he hear his own music and come to the conclusion that perhaps he just didn’t have much more to say. When we see where New Order, the band that emerged from the wreckage of Joy Division after Curtis’ death, we see that maybe the latter would have achieved great fame and success had they pulled of their U.S. tour. Perhaps as he closed in on success, Curtis realized success was not what he wanted. I don’t know what he wanted, Corbijn doesn’t know what he wanted, and probably this is due to the fact that Curtis himself didn’t know what he wanted from his art. "I exist as best I can," he said. In the end, existence wasn’t enough.

     

  • Spring Ginger Mussels

     

    Ingredients:

    • 1 1/2 pounds fresh black mussels, cleaned
    • 1 ounce ginger, diced
    • 1 1/2 ounces garlic, chopped
    • 1 1/2 ounces shallots chopped
    • 1 ounce tamari soy sauce
    • 2 ounces vegetable oil
    • 1 ounce chives, chopped
    • 2 ounces unsalted butter
    • 3 ounces seedless cucumber, diced
    • 1 ounce quality sake
    • salt and pepper to taste

    Method:
    Warm a
    large sauté pan or skillet to medium heat. Add ginger, garlic, shallots,
    vegetable oil, and cucumbers. Sauté for 1 minute. Add mussels. Deglaze pan with
    sake. Add butter and tamari soy sauce. Cover until mussels are open. Toss chives
    and serve in a big bowl.

    Serves 4

     

    Afton House Inn

     
    Afton House Inn

    3

  • Truffle Hunt

    Which camp are you in?

    A: Truffles are earthy little pungent gifts from the ground that should be prized and savored in a meaningful and creative dish.

    B: Truffles are overrated bits of hype that chefs use to glam their menus while hiding their technical failings.

    Honestly, sometimes I’m in both camps at the same time. I remember my first truffle dish: it was a creamy and soft celery root soup with a black truffle shaving that I had at Gramercy Tavern. Beautiful and subtle, the flavors were never ostentatious or showy. On the other side of the spectrum, I later ate truffle and foie gras ravioli at Ca L’Isidre in Spain. It is one of those taste-memories that I carry with me and is recalled everytime I even smell truffle oil. Lucky me.

    But I do recognize the trend of using truffle oil and truffle butter as being a little too easy. Yes, it brings the flavor to the home cook without all the fuss, of that I am glad. I just can’t abide certain chefs who think that it should be a feature in every dish, found on the menu of a recent restaurant visit at least twelve times. It looks foolish and amature.

    Anyhoo.

    Today and tomorrow you will be able to buy authentic Italian tuffles sourced by the Urbani family. Friday from Noon to 6pm at Byerly’s in Edina and Saturday from 9am to 3pm at Byerly’s in St. Louis Park. The gems will be sold in .03 pound increments at market price.

    I might just grab a cup of coffee and go to watch the bum rush … if it happens.

  • Pssst….

    Well, the biggest secret today is clearly our new website. Be sure to check it and enjoy our new features. No more buried content! You’ll find a much airier feel all around — I hope. Hell, forget about going out. Just spend the weekend digging through the archives and emailing articles to your friends. I’m joking, of course — but there are indeed some great articles back there.

    Ok. Onward. There are, after all, some great events this weekend.

    ART
    From Zinnia Seeds to Zinnia Still-Lifes — Art Attack

    The Northrup King business is currently just one facet of a global conglomerate, but the massive complex of ten buildings in Northeast Minneapolis retained the name of the seed company founded over a hundred years ago. Now, of course, those buildings all crank out art and crafts. With more than 125 creative tenants, there’s no shortage of goods to peruse, but everything’s concentrated in one location, which is a boon for those of us who are getting on in years, or who are just plain lazy (we’re both). If you find Art-a-Whirl overwhelming, this is the art fair you want. Look for a special exhibit in NKB’s group room marking the fair’s tenth anniversary, with historical displays about the seed company as well as art inspired by present-day activities in the complex. —Julie Caniglia

    Friday from 5 to 10 p.m., Saturday 12 – 8 p.m., Sunday 12 – 5 p.m.); Northrup King Building,1500 Jackson St. N.E., Minneapolis; 612-363-5612.

    Naked Wonder: Mark Dion, Christine Baeumler, and Eleanor McGough

    Colleen Sheehy, curator at the Weisman, put together a nature-themed
    show with this Bob Dylan epigraph: “The sky cracked its poems in naked
    wonder.” She chose Mark Dion’s candid deer portraits, Eleanor McGough’s
    paintings of natural subjects subsumed into lushly decorative patterns,
    and Christine Baeumler’s paintings from her recent trip to the
    Galapagos and the Great Barrier Reef. Sheehy chose “curator artists”:
    Dion has always been interested in what museums do to their subjects,
    the animals or art that end up in them; McGough seizes flowers,
    branches, cells, and proliferates their patterns, creating a decorative
    context that acts much like a museum in deracinating the subjects.
    Baeumler seems better able to stand back—in the past, her paintings
    often contained such patterns and grids, but these new ones seem to
    find rather than seek. —Ann Klefstad

    Opening reception on Saturday from to 9 p.m., Gallery Co., 400 First Ave. N., Suite 210, Minneapolis; 612-332-5252.

    MUSIC
    Lovely Leila

    She’s one of those classical music babes—a twenty-something player who, on account on her good looks, packs no small amount of marketing punch. But the peripatetic violinist Leila Josefowicz also has serious chops. She performed with such top-ten orchestras as Cleveland and Philadelphia while still in her teens, for heaven’s sake, and has since managed to forge a successful solo career. She has a passion for new music; she is known, in particular, for playing the works of contemporary composer John Adams. (As for Adams, he is perhaps best known for his operas Nixon In China and Doctor Atomic.) This weekend Josefowicz plays solo on an Adams violin concerto (written in 1993/4) with the Saint Paul Chamber Orchestra. —Christy DeSmith

    Friday at 10:30 a.m. and 8 p.m., Saturday at 8 p.m., Ordway Center, 345 Washington St., St. Paul; 651-291-1144; $11-$59.

    And, of course, if you’re looking for some fabulous old-school rock, Bruce Springsteen and the E Street Band are playing at the Xcel Energy Center this evening, Friday, at 7:30 p.m. Yes, the tickets are steep ($67-$97), but Sprinsteen is always worth the cost of admission.

    FILM
    American Gangster Finally Opens

    Between the Coens’ new shoot-’em-up and American Gangster, this year’s Oscar contenders will probably be slam-bang pieces of entertainment. In Gangster, Denzel Washington plays African-American mob boss Frank Lucas,
    who ruled ’70s Harlem by making his product—heroin—better and cheaper
    than his rivals’, while simultaneously becoming one of the city’s great
    civic leaders. Opposing him is one Russell Crowe,
    an “outcast cop,” who is equally possessed of a solid moral ethic
    amongst a corrupt force. These two men will meet, bullets will fly, and
    all the while we’ll be treated to some awesome ’70s imagery, great
    music, and two of the sexiest leading men to go head to head in a movie
    since Heat. —Peter Schilling

    Opens today at area theaters.

     

     

  • We Do This Every Three Years

    If you are reading this, you are at The Rake’s new web site. And you are looking at the result of a lot of work by Cristina Córdova, our web editor, Matt Bartel, our web geek, Brad Richter of Codewarp, and Erika Stenrick and Ronan Dowling of Gorton Studios. Kraig Larson of Ciceron did the design heavy lifting. I’d be remiss, too, if I neglected to mention FAMFAMFAM for their creative commons icons.

    I won’t go into too much detail except to say that writing the Oxford English Dictionary probably was easier than integrating our old inflexible content management system into a new one.

    The only thing harder than actually doing it, was thinking of all the things we wanted to do. For that, I’m going to give yet one more prop to Cristina Córdova.

    And, of course, a big one to all the talented writers and artists and editors who’ve contributed their wonderful thoughts to The Rake for almost six years now. (One of the neat features of the new site is the author index. Click on any story byline and see what happens.)

    We hope the new format will provide a better experience for you.

    We know it’s better for us. It will be even better for us when the memory of the birthing pains subsides.

    So, tonight we’re having a couple of drinks.

    Thanks for reading rakemag.com.

    Tom Bartel

  • The Finish Line: The Black Bus With The Tinted Windows Is Waiting

    Trust me, even when I go away, I’ve got nowhere else to go. I’m always around, a lurker in my own life.

    The end of the baseball season is always a painful thing for an obsessive/compulsive man who is a complete slave to routine yet has very few habits –with the exception of bad habits– that would qualify as routines.

    Baseball was invented for people like me, and when the carnival shuts down for the winter and the boxscores disappear from the morning newspaper, I’m left with…I’m left with…um…I’m honestly not sure. Extreme malnutrition, dodgy hygiene, darkness, and increasingly long stretches of paralysis. I likely won’t turn on the television again until April.

    Was it a good season? I guess I’m not sure. It certainly wasn’t a particularly great year to be a Twins fan. In the next couple months, I suppose, some highlights and happy memories will surface through the murk, but mostly what I remember now is that sense of frustration and futility that seemed to get cranked tighter and tighter as the season dragged along to what in hindsight seems like its inevitable conclusion.

    I began the season in a state of extreme denial. I always begin the season in a state of extreme denial. I was as grouchy as the next guy when the Twins hauled Sidney Ponson and Ramon Ortiz north in April, but I honestly believed a team with Johan Santana, Joe Mauer, Justin Morneau, Joe Nathan, and Torii Hunter would be able to play with anybody in the AL Central.

    I was wrong, of course. I had a pretty good idea that Ponson and Ortiz would suck, and I had a pretty good idea that Nick Punto was probably not a perfect-world everyday second baseman. But I had no idea Joe Mauer was going to spend most of the year either injured or doing a sort of Brian Harper impersonation. I had no idea Justin Morneau’s power numbers would disappear in the second half. And I had no idea the contract status of Hunter and Santana would become such a lingering and maddening sideshow.

    The truth, though, is that you never have a really good idea about much of anything. Baseball proves that virtually every year.

    The postseason was both frustrating and oddly satisfying, starting right ouf of the blocks with the one-game Rockies/Padres playoff. I liked every one of the match-ups, but it was a shame to see so many quick series. The World Series pitted two very different teams that were both fun to watch and, more importantly, seened to genuinely enjoy playing the game.

    The Red Sox were just scary, scary on so many levels, and every indication is that this is an organization –and a team– that is determined and capable of being scary good for years to come.

    Now what?

    No idea, really. The whole Hot Stove League thing has become little more than commentary and speculation surrounding the incredulous –and often horrifying– free agent cash scramble.

    I think I’ll probably try to write about baseball books, or baseball and comic books, or baseball movies, or great names in baseball history –or just strange historical arcana related to the game.

    I’ll try to write about something, even while I lurch along aboard the Black Bus, and squint hopefully through the tinted windshield for the first sign of spring sunlight on the horizon.

    And I’ll remind myself of the words I speak aloud every year when the last out of the World Series is recorded: God help us all. May I still be sitting here come April.

     

  • Gaviidae Commons: Where The Boys Are

    It’s nearly impossible to find a decent men’s jacket these
    days. Last weekend’s hunt yielded fashionable versions from Neiman Marcus (the
    $1,200 one by Etro, for example) and comparatively affordable options from Off
    Fifth
    (a Valentino clearanced at $600). But alas, I am not paying for what boyfriend wears to
    little brother’s wedding this weekend (I bought my dress in July), so we
    pressed on in a hunt for bargain-basement prices. Next stop: The new Len
    Druskin
    Man-Boy store which was full of hoodies, sneaks, and faux-vintage tees. Also at Gaviidae:
    Kuhlman, which is a fine, affordable place but not necessarily in alignment with
    boyfriend’s fratboy-hippie tastes.

     

    Funny thing is: Gaviidae ALMOST had its own haberdashery. The
    concept was being spearheaded by a veteran salesman of the Dayton’s/Marshall Field’s men’s department as
    well as another prominent local boutique owner. (Can you guess who?) But word
    has it that Gaviidae nixed the idea—and, along with that, an already-signed
    lease—once the folks at Len Druskin got sight of the store’s vendor list.

  • Take off the Costume and Honor Thy Dead

    ART
    Day of the Dead

    An amalgamation of indigenous ritual, Catholicism, and Mexican tradition, Día de los Muertos celebrates and honors those who have traversed the line between life and death in Latin American cultures. In reverence to this special day, the Altered Esthetics exhibition opening this evening presents more than 30 national artists’ representations of this visually-oriented, festive-yet-spiritual theme. Since traditional ofrendas (offerings for the dead) can include anything from tequila to old household items, expect images ranging from the mundane and comforting to the colorful and sexy. Participants at the opening reception tomorrow night are encouraged to bring momentos, pictures, and collages for a memorial wall commemorating those who have passed in the last year. The gallery is supplying candles and flowers for a community processional. –Danielle Cabot

    1-7 p.m., Reception tomorrow from 7-9 p.m., Altered Esthetics, 1224 Quincy St. NE.; Minneapolis; 612-378-8888; free.

     

    FILM
    An Offering for the Dead

    Also in honor of Día de los Muertos (and a good deal of filmmaking talent), the Walker opens the first session of its Cinematica series of Latin American film. For the next two weeks (and again in January), you can explore a broad spectrum of filmmaking styles from New Mexican Cinema. Quite fittingly, the series begins this evening with La Ofrenda: The Day of the Dead. Directed by Lourdes Portillo and Susana Muñoz, this 1988 documentary "reveals the pre-Hispanic roots of the Day of the Dead and invites us into present-day celebrations in Oaxaca and the United States."

    7:30 p.m., Walker Art Center, 1750 Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis; 612-375-7600; free.

     

    THEATER & PERFORMANCE
    Festival of Lies

    Art meets life in this informal, party-like performance replete with food and drink from the Cedar-Riverside area’s Tam-Tam’s African Restaurant, and a locally produced soundtrack of African music. But the main attraction is Congolese choreographer Faustin Linyekula and his troupe of dancers and actors, who move within a shifting installation of fluorescent light fixtures, electrical chords, and other detritus to communicate, with movement and speech, stories both personal and political. The catch: Some of these tales are true, some lies — Linyekula’s reflection on the collective amnesia that tends to plague citizens of a corrupt, turbulent nation — and it’s the audience’s job to discern the difference. Presented by the Walker Art Center. –Christy DeSmith

    8 p.m. (tonight through Saturday), Cedar Cultural Center, 416 Cedar Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-375-7600; $25.

     

    MUSIC
    Gypsy Mayhem

    We first saw Gogol Bordello at the creatively named Bulgarian Bar at Canal and Broadway, the nexus of downtown New York. It was odd, to say the least, to eat pierogis at a table while watching a new, weird mutation of punk – the kind that was happening in suburban basements throughout the 80s – unfold on a tiny stage, as a small clutch of moshers steadily grew. Within a couple of years frontman Eugene Hutz, who is like a Ukrainian version of Iggy Pop, and his band of collaborators were being mobbed uptown, at the opening night of the Whitney Biennial. More a cabaret of chaos than a typical rock show, Gogol’s live performances fusing punk, Eastern European folk, and avant-garde DJ-ing are legendary. As Hutz once told a critic, "Sometimes we just sit around and think ‘We are this kind of band, but wouldn’t it be great if there were this and this and this kind of band’?" Exactly! –Julie Caniglia

    6 p.m., First Avenue, 701 First Avenue N., Minneapolis; 612-332-1775; $18.

     

    Still Holding Steady

    The Hold Steady are well known for tossing hosannas to the Twin Cities’ landscape and music scene, past and present — from name-checking the "Grain Belt bridge" and Payne Avenue to sonic nods to all manner of local bands. Never mind that frontman Craig Finn, a native of Edina, decamped to Brooklyn some seven years ago — the Twin Towns (and their suburbs) remain a key inspiration. Of course, influences outside our city limits also filter into Finn’s songs: hints of Jersey boy Bruce Springsteen (okay, maybe not just hints) or Ohio’s Guided By Voices, not to mention shout-outs to dive bars and shopping malls stumbled across on countless and lengthy tours. What’s their latest Twin Cities reference? Find out when the Hold Steady plays the State Theatre this evening. While you’re at it, check out frontman Craig Finn’s playlist in this month’s issue. –Christy DeSmith

    7:30 p.m., State Theatre, 805 Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis; 612-339-7007; $23.50.

  • Chuck 2006: Admirably Mediocre

    Have I mentioned how much I hate Trader Joe’s?

    A little over a year ago, when the California-based grocer moved into Minnesota, and located their inaugural store about a mile from my house in St. Louis Park, the POLICE had to be called in to direct traffic. It was like Lourdes: people streaming in from St. Paul, from Red Wing, from Kansas, for all I know, to witness this retail wonder. The streets in our neighborhood were a mess for weeks. I had to drive to Golden Valley just to buy coffee and bagels.

    So about a month later, when I finally walked into the place myself — this magnificent edifice that so many had traveled so far to experience — I expected to see a bright light and hear a chorus of angels. Instead, I found myself inside a garishly-painted space stocked with haphazard piles of "natural" foods. Only this was the thing. I’m used to my natural food being, you know, natural. But here, at TJ, the apples weren’t bare-naked and glossy and gloriously orchard-like; they were packaged four to a bulbous plastiform container. There were aisles full of fancy [high-fat] multi-colored chips and pre-assembled kits to make various incredibly basic homemade things — salsa and guac and such. Also chocolate "energy" bars, pressed packages of cheese, pump bottles of lotion.

    I passed up the fruit encased in crude oil and went to the dairy section for some plain yogurt. Not yak-milk yogurt, mind you, nothing fancy. Didn’t even have to be organic, though that would have been nice. But I was out of luck. This place had Chocolate Eclair yogurt and Nut-Berry Crunch. All the Lucky Charms varieties of yogurt in bright, rainbow colors. No plain.

    In addition, there was no bulk section: no whole wheat pastry flour, no rice, no white popcorn, no loose leaf tea. There were, however, dozens of different flavors of Trader Joe’s sauces, soups, mixes, cookies, and cakes. In other words, junk. Finally, I bought some tangerine-scented lotion, just to say I’d been. Took it home, used it, broke out in a rash, threw it away. Until this week, that was the last time I was in Trader Joe’s.

    Finally, the traffic’s died down. There are two more Twin Cities TJ locations — an outpost in Maple Grove and brand-spanking new one in Woodbury — so the burden on St. Louis Park has eased up. Plus, I’ve been hearing and hearing (and hearing) about the so-called Two Buck Chuck, which because we’re in Minnesota actually is THREE Buck Chuck (or, more precisely, 2.99 Buck Chuck — but that doesn’t sound as good), and especially the Charles Shaw Chardonnay 2005 which won all sorts of blind taste test wine awards.

    So yesterday, during the sunny, windy peak of a gorgeous autumn afternoon, I walked over to Trader Joe’s and stepped inside. I’d love to continue grumbling, but I must admit, things have improved. The apples were piled in a respectable pyramid this time; the dairy case did contain a couple containers of plain yogurt in and amongst the sparkly, sugary tubs. The aisles, once again, were stack-packed with chips, crackers, and Annie’s instant dinners — the original ersatz organic fare. But Trader Joe’s is, after all, not The Wedge, but rather, I’ve learned, the Super America of sandal-wearing yuppie-hippie-Boomer types who love their psychedelic mac and cheese and wouldn’t know how to cook a pot of quinoa (or pronounce it, for that matter) if their lives depended on it.

    Next, I went into the wine store, where I learned that the 2005 Chard that was so widely talked about has all sold out and what they’re hawking now, for $3 a pop, is the 2006. So I bought a bottle, which the cashier kindly double-bagged for my mile-long walk home. I treated this wine like a prized White Bordeaux from 1998: chilling it at a careful angle, opening it as dusk fell, decanting it gently into a crystal glass. I took a sip and then another. And I had to admit, grudgingly, that it didn’t suck.

    Like most inexpensive party wines, the TBC Chard 2006 is a little frothy when it first meets the mouth, and it causes the tongue to go a little puckery as it slides down the sides. It’s bright and simple — like the sun in a child’s drawing — full of lemony fruit and not a lot else. But what’s remarkable is what it doesn’t have: a sour, metallic, or too-sugary aftertaste. It’s rare, in fact, to find a dirt cheap wine that finishes this clean.

    Still, I was cranky about it — that plain yogurt incident just weighing on me — and I wanted to prove myself wrong. So I did a blind taste test of my own. When my husband came home, I handed him a glass and barked, "Tell me what you think." So without even putting his briefcase down he tasted and smiled and said, "Not bad. It’s a little sweet maybe. But there’s something really good about it, like a nice mid-price Viognier."

    Well, there you have it. It wasn’t the California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition, I grant you, but a random test in my living room, performed by a curmudgeonly wine critic (can a woman be a curmudgeon?) and a well-traveled software developer says it is so. If you’re looking for a profoundly ordinary but inoffensive bottle of white wine that costs less than your Sunday New York Times, there is, a legitimate reason to go to Trader Joe’s. Just don’t drive down my street, OK?

  • Protector of Pandas, Friend to Farmers

    We’re sitting at a table in Rice Paper, the little Asian-fusion restaurant in Linden Hills.

    When I asked Jim Harkness, president of the Institute for Agriculture and Trade Policy, if he would talk to me over dinner he said sure, I should pick the place. His house is in this neighborhood, I reasoned, and he lived in China for more than a decade. He heads up an agency that advocates for family-owned businesses. Rice Paper should be perfect.

    The server hands me a menu and I study it for a second. “What looks good to you?” I ask.

    “Well, nothing, actually,” Harkness says. He is staring at his menu, eyebrows beetling fiercely. Then he looks up. “Oh, I probably should have told you, I’m kind of an anti-fusion snob. I mean, generations went into creating authentic, regional Asian cuisines. Can’t we just stick to one? Why do we have to mess them up by mixing them all together?”

    I have no idea what to say.

    Harkness shrugs. “You never know, maybe I’ll be won over,” he says. “But I doubt it.”

    He’s a young-looking 45, with a handsome, unlined face and dark hair. I attribute this to the way he’s lived: single, unburdened by so much as a cat, following a career path based entirely upon his whims and interests rather than mundane exigencies such as car payments, children, a 401(k). But no matter how solipsistic his approach, there’s no denying Harkness is doing great work.

    He’s just returned, for instance, from a summit in Beijing where he was asked to speak about the trade relationship between China and Africa. I ask him for his position. He begins with a sketch of the history: “China’s leaders came up in the 50s, 60s, and 70s, during the Cold War, at a time when the country’s ties to third-world countries were based largely on the movement toward non-alliance. And a big part of their foreign policy has always been this notion of non-interference.” After several minutes, he shifts to the modern day: “In today’s world, a world of global economies, that’s a sort of naïve view and it ends up dovetailing very conveniently with a trade policy that’s focused on getting resources, like oil.” He launches into descriptions of the various groups opposing China and concludes with: “Frankly, I’m not terribly sympathetic to the U.S. or European countries saying that China’s motives in Africa aren’t pure because of our own 400-year history of plunder and colonialism, stretching right up to the present.”

    He takes a breath. The server — who seems to have every table in this busy little restaurant — stops back to ask if we’re ready to order.

    “Not yet,” Harkness tells her. “I’m formulating a theory about Chinese foreign policy here. It takes time.”

    Finally, we choose two dishes, Plantation chicken and a Curry Plate with tofu, and agree to share. He orders a domestic beer (Rice Paper has obtained a beer and wine license since its “dry” opening in 2003), warning me to avoid imported Asian beers because most of them are awful.

    “How did you end up in China in the first place?” I ask.

    He looks perplexed again, then begins at the beginning.

    Harkness grew up just a few miles away, in Minneapolis near 50th and Girard. His parents both were the children of missionaries — his father born in Mozambique, his mother in Korea — so their lifestyle, even with children, was peripatetic. Harkness attended Minneapolis Central High School when he wasn’t traveling with his family, and took classes in Chinese. In 1976, the year he was 14, he was selected along with a group of other high schools students from the United States to visit China as part of a “friendship delegation.”

    “That was the era of ping-pong diplomacy,” he explains. “I think they ran out of other ‘welcoming’ things to do, so they invited this group of high school kids over, wined and dined us, took us to the Great Wall. I thought it was great. Had a mad crush on one of the female Red guards — unrequited, by the way.”

    He returned, finished high school, and took up the Chinese again at the University of Wisconsin. In 1981, he traveled to Tianjin as part of an exchange program. But it wasn’t global politics that Harkness was interested in, it was ornithology. He was — and still is — riveted by birds.

    While earning his master’s degree in sociology at Cornell University, he signed on as a consultant to the International Crane Foundation, based in Baraboo, Wisconsin. The tiny nonprofit happened to be launching a project in China and they were in need of someone who spoke the language.

    Harkness glowers and announces, “In the mountain where there is no tiger, the monkey is king.”

    There is a pause. “Which means?” I prompt.

    “Since none of these salt-of-the-earth Wisconsin bird nuts knew Chinese, they thought I was some worldly sophisticate. I became their king. They’d find some Chinese scientist who didn’t speak English, and I’d be sent to translate and help him artificially inseminate black-necked cranes.”